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AxisCap - FMCG Thematic - SR - 13 Sep 2022
AxisCap - FMCG Thematic - SR - 13 Sep 2022
15 1.5 2 (%)
(3) the disrupted/ incumbents (D2C in BPC poses higher risk to HUL/ Emami). BPC’s
27
10 0.7 market dynamics and D2C’s surge, D2C’s success factors and scalability challenges,
1
0.3
12
5 FMCG’s defense tactics and risk to incumbents are some of the key debates addressed.
6
2
0 0
FY19 FY20 FY21 FY22 Stage set for D2C brands in BPC; fast-growing online market key impetus
Source: Axis Capital
While a highly consolidated BPC market (top-10 players in the Indian BPC market control
50%+ share vs. ~26% at a global level) and an under-served consumer provide the key
Mamaearth broke in top-10 BPC (FY22 rev)
backdrop for rise of D2C brands, a fast-growing online BPC market (~27% CAGR over
195
250
FY22-27 to Rs 442 bn; ~20% online penetration) where D2C model scores over the
200
traditional distribution, innovation and marketing model puts D2C brands in a strong
(Rs bn)
150
position to grow and challenge legacy FMCG brands.
100
51
48
34
32
32
23
15
50
10
0
Top D2C companies in BPC have established a sizeable presence (top-10, on aggregate,
GCPL
HUL
Mamaearth
Colgate
Gillette India
Marico
Nivea India
Emami
Dabur
Loreal India
have seen ~11x rise in revenue over FY19-22 from Rs 2.4 bn to ~Rs 27 bn and have
cumulatively raised ~Rs 50 bn till date). We estimate overall D2C market size in BPC at
Rs 55 bn (consumer level) in FY22, ~4.3% of total BPC and significantly higher 33% of
Source: Company, Axis Capital; Note: (1) Mamaearth online BPC market. We estimate it to grow at ~45% CAGR over FY22-27 to Rs 350 bn
refers to Honasa Consumer, (2) Loreal and Nivea (~16% share of total BPC; ~54% in online and ~6% in offline BPC).
revenue for FY22 is our estimate, and (3) Top-10 in BPC
is ex-P&G (data on BPC revenues not available)
What is the D2C secret sauce?
Top-10 D2C added 50%+ of top-10 FMCG rev D2C brands are agile and behave differently vs. legacy FMCG brands in the way they
80 recruit (through online channels), educate (via digital content/ social media and
68
influencers) and retain consumers (digital marketing, constant feedback loop and fast -
60 paced innovation). D2C brands have strong understanding of consumers and have been
quick to capitalize on product and price white spaces (often premium-end) which coupled
(Rs bn)
40 35 with high gross margins (65-70%+) and asset-light model has helped D2C to scale up fast.
Download Axis Capital is also available on Bloomberg (AXCP<GO>), Reuters.com, Firstcall.com and Factset.com. 1
FOR IMPORTANT DISCLOSURES AND DISCLAIMERS, REFER TO THE END OF THIS MATERIAL
FMCG
Sector Report
Table of Contents
D2C in BPC – a strong force; to grow ~6x+ over FY22-27 to Rs 350 bn ........................13
Risks rising for legacy FMCG com panies from D2C onslaught ..........................................21
Story in charts
Exhibit 1: Overall BPC to grow at ~12% CAGR, online BPC to grow faster at ~27% CAGR over FY22-27
FY16 FY19 FY20 FY21 FY22 FY23E FY24E FY25E FY26E FY27E CAGR (%)
FY16-19 FY19-22 F22-27
Market size (Rs bn)
Overall BPC 897 1,176 1,267 1,120 1,267 1,417 1,584 1,772 1,981 2,199 9.4 2.5 11.7
Online BPC 17 46 70 91 134 179 231 294 368 442 39.1 43.1 26.9
Offline BPC 880 1,130 1,197 1,029 1,133 1,238 1,353 1,477 1,613 1,757 8.7 0.1 9.2
Online penetration (%) 1.9 3.9 5.5 8.1 10.6 12.6 14.6 16.6 18.6 20.1
Incremental market size (Rs bn)
Overall BPC 91 -147 147 150 167 187 209 218
Online BPC 24 21 44 44 53 63 74 74
Offline BPC 67 -168 103 106 115 125 135 144
Online share of incremental (%) 29.6 29.5 31.5 33.5 35.5 33.7
Source: RedSeer, Axis Capital
Exhibit 2: D2C size in BPC to grow at 45% CAGR over FY22-27 to Rs 350 bn (~USD 4.5 bn); ~16% share of overall BPC
FY20 FY21 FY22 FY23E FY24E FY25E FY26E FY27E CAGR (%)
FY22-27
Market size (Rs bn)
Overall BPC 1,267 1,120 1,267 1,417 1,584 1,772 1,981 2,199 11.7
Online BPC 70 91 134 179 231 294 368 442 26.9
Offline BPC 1,197 1,029 1,133 1,238 1,353 1,477 1,613 1,757 9.2
Online penetration (%) 5.5 8.1 10.6 12.6 14.6 16.6 18.6 20.1
Total D2C BPC size 12 24 55 96 145 207 278 350 44.7
Online revenue salience (%) 95 90 80 76 73 71 70 68
Offline revenue salience (%) 5 10 20 24 27 29 30 32
Incremental share in online (%) 47 52 65 63 65 62 60
Incremental share in offline (%) 8 11 14 16 18 19
Market share of D2C (%)
- in Total BPC 1.0 2.1 4.3 6.8 9.2 11.7 14.0 15.9
- in Online BPC 17 24 33 41 46 50 52 54
- in Offline BPC 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6
Source: RedSeer, Axis Capital (D2C sizing is our estimates)
Exhibit 3: Top-10 D2C BPC brands in India have grown ~11x over FY19-22 to an estimated ~Rs 27 bn (aggregate revenue)
Company Key brands FY17 FY18 FY19 FY20 FY21 FY22 FY20-22 CAGR (%)
Revenue, Rs mn
Honasa Consumer Mamaearth 2 53 168 1,098 4,609 9,200 189
Vellvette Lifestyle Sugar Cosmetics 73 186 569 1,036 1,263 2,500 55
Body Cupid Wow Skin Sciences 233 216 402 865 1,887 4,000 115
Pureplay Skin Sciences Plum 41 91 219 523 906 1,750 83
Pep Technologies mCaffeine 2 12 46 403 665 1,750 108
Zed Lifestyle Beardo 84 227 482 796 638 949 9
Amishi Consumer Technologies The Moms Co. 11 74 222 457
Sanghvi Beauty and Technologies MyGlamm 138 86 137 440 446 5,000 237
Helios Lifestyle The Man Company 56 120 203 392 429 828 45
Visage Lines Personal Care Bombay Shaving Company 16 40 79 176 377 1,000 138
Total 644 1,041 2,379 5,951 11,677 26,977 113
Source: Ministry of Corporate Affairs – ROC, Axis Capital; Notes: (1) MyGlamm restructured into Good Glamm Group post spate of acquisitions in FY22 (estimated rise in
FY22 due to acquisitions), (2) The Moms Co was acquired by My Glamm for ~Rs 5 bn in Oct 2021 and (3) FY22 revenues are estimates (media reports)
Exhibit 4: Top-10 D2C in BPC added 50%+ of incremental revenue added by top FMCG companies over FY19-22 (absolute basis)
FY16 FY17 FY18 FY19 FY20 FY21 FY22 CAGR (%)
(Rs bn) FY16-19 FY19-22
Market size
Overall BPC 897 984 1,073 1,176 1,267 1,120 1,267 9.4 2.5
Online BPC 17 26 35 46 70 91 134 39.1 43.1
Offline BPC 880 958 1,037 1,130 1,197 1,029 1,133 8.7 0.1
Online penetration (%) 1.9 2.6 3.3 3.9 5.5 8.1 10.6
BPC revenue of key FMCG cos
HUL 142 144 159 177 173 180 195 7.6 3.3
Dabur 23 22 23 26 26 29 32 4.3 7.7
Colgate 37 38 40 42 43 46 48 4.9 4.6
Marico 35 34 38 45 43 46 51 8.9 4.2
GCPL 21 21 24 26 24 27 32 7.1 7.3
Emami 12 13 14 14 13 14 15 7.7 0.4
Loreal India 29 29 29 33 35 29 34 3.5 1.7
Gillette India 20 18 17 19 17 20 23 -1.7 6.6
Bajaj Consumer Care 9 8 8 9 9 9 9 1.6 -1.4
Nivea India 6 7 9 10 11 8 10 17.0 -0.5
Total Revenues 333 333 360 401 394 407 448 6.4 3.8
Total Consumer level Revenues 475 476 515 572 563 581 640
% share of Top-10 in BPC 53 48 48 49 44 52 51
Top-10 D2C Companies in BPC
Total Revenues 2.4 6.0 11.7 27.0 124.7
Total Consumer level Revenues 3.4 8.5 16.7 38.5
% share of Top-10 in BPC 0.3 0.7 1.5 3.0
% share of online BPC 6 10 15 23
Source: Company, Ministry of Corporate Affairs – ROC, RedSeer, Axis Capital; Note: (1) HUL revenue for FY16-18 adjusted as per LTL growth rates to make it comparable to
post GST/ Ind-AS scenario and (2) FY22 revenues for Loreal India and Nivea India are estimates
Exhibit 5: ‘Relevant’ BPC market for D2C is likely to grow at ~14% CAGR over FY22-27 (55-60% salience of BPC)
CAGR (%)
FY16 ...FY19 FY20 FY21 FY22 FY23E FY24E ...FY27E FY16-19 FY19-22 FY22-27E
India BPC market (Rs bn) 897 1,176 1,267 1,120 1,267 1,417 1,584 2,199 9.4 2.5 11.7
Relevant BPC categories (Rs bn) 473 649 713 624 719 822 938 1,379 11.2 3.4 13.9
% of total 53 55 56 56 57 58 59 63
Other categories (Rs bn) 424 526 554 496 548 595 646 820 7.4 1.4 8.4
Online BPC
Online market (overall BPC market) 17 46 70 91 134 179 231 442 39.1 43.1 26.9
Online penetration (%) 1.9 3.9 5.5 8.1 10.6 12.6 14.6 20.1
Online - relevant categories (Rs bn) 11 31 51 59 86 118 157 305 39.7 39.7 29.0
Online penetration (%) 2.4 4.8 7.2 9.5 11.9 14.3 16.7 22.1
% of online BPC market 73 65 64 66 68 69
Source: RedSeer, Axis Capital
Exhibit 7: D2C brands in BPC space enjoy high gross margin in the range of 65% to 70%+
Company Key brands FY17 FY18 FY19 FY20 FY21
Gross margin (%)
Honasa Consumer Mamaearth 68 69 65 65 71
Vellvette Lifestyle Sugar Cosmetics 53 62 60 61 68
Body Cupid Wow Skin Sciences 65 57 39 39 55
Pureplay Skin Sciences Plum 60 70 65 65 70
Pep Technologies mCaffeine 76 66 63 65 63
Zed Lifestyle Beardo 61 68 73 59 55
Amishi Consumer Technologies The Moms Co. 56 60 53 58
Sanghvi Beauty and Technologies MyGlamm 92 82 69 68 61
Helios Lifestyle The Man Company 63 57 49 50 55
Visage Lines Personal Care Bombay Shaving Company 63 35 52 57 48
Total 69 63 59 58 65
Source: Ministry of Corporate Affairs – ROC, Axis Capital
Exhibit 8: D2C brands have a strong focus on digital marketing and lead most legacy brands in social presence
# of followers on Instagram (in ‘000)
2,300
2,200
3,000
1,100
1,000
1,000
2,000
830
693
655
639
635
569
488
403
324
313
300
248
241
217
1,000
190
129
114
111
106
100
47
41
34
0
Nivea
Vaseline
Mamearth
The Man Co
Beardo
Elle India
Garnier
Juicy Chemistry
Lux
WoW
Mcaffeine
Simple
Renee Cosmetics
Just Herbs
Loreal
Faces Canada
Plum
Nyx Cosmetics
Sugar
Himalaya
Mac Cosmetics
Ustraa
Myglamm
Lakme
Ponds
Body Shop
Good Vibes
Bombay Shaving Co
Source: Instagram, Axis Capital; Note: Grey highlight refers to legacy/ incumbent brands
Exhibit 9: D2C focus categories in BPC include hair care, skin care, bath & body, cosmetics and men’s grooming
Product presence of key D2C companies across focus categories
WoW Mamaearth Plum MyGlamm Sugar Bombay Shaving The Man Co Beardo
Hair Care
Hair oil
Shampoo/Conditioners
Hair Masks/Serums
Hair styling gels/wax
Skin Care
Face wash/scrub
Face Cream
Face Serum/Mask
Moisturizer
Sunscreen
Make up remover
Toner
Under Eye Cream
Bath & Body
Body Wash/ Scrub
Body Moisturizer
Bath Soap
Hand Wash/Cream
Makeup/Cosmetics
Lips/Face/Eyes/Nails
Men's Grooming
Beard grooming
Electric trimmer
Shaving range
Men's Toiletries
Others
Nutrition & Health
Wellness
Babycare Range
Fragrances
Women's Hygiene
Depilatories
Source: Company websites, Axis Capital; Note: Green indicates presence in category and orange indicates the company is not present in the category
Exhibit 10: HUL and Emami are at higher risk to D2C disruption
Revenue salience (%)
To calculate portfolio at risk Company/ category Dabur HUL Godrej Marico Emami
BPC - total (domestic) 43 38 46 70 48
to disruption, we have Soaps 14 36
Skin Care 4 11 17
(1) excluded CNO, Amla and
Coconut Hair Oil (CNO) 1 45
cooling oil from hair oils and Value Added Hair Oils (VAHO) 15 1 22 30
Hair colors 11
(2) assumed only ~10% Shampoos 3 7
of soaps revenue for Oral care 18 2
Color cosmetics 3
GCPL/ HUL Deodorants 1 1 1
Baby care 2
Styling Agents 2
Domestic FMCG as % of total 71 100 57 77 82
BPC as % of total Cons revenue 31 38 26 54 39
At risk as % of domestic FMCG 13 23 4 10 30
At risk as % of total Cons revenue 9 23 2 8 24
Source: Company, Axis Capital; Note: Categories in grey are D2C’s focused categories and at higher risk
Exhibit 11: HUL’s BPC revenue (ex-soaps) grew at ~1% CAGR over FY19-22
Rising awareness and exposure to global trends and higher disposable incomes are
driving change in Indian consumers who have evolved needs now including willingness to
experiment more with both brands and niche categories and pay premium for right product.
D2C brands are thriving on this experimentative culture filling in both product and price
whitespaces in the BPC market often on the premium end of the market.
D2C brands are agile and behave differently vs. legacy FMCG brands in the way the recruit
(through online channels), educate (via digital content/social media and influencers) and
retain consumers (digital marketing, constant feedback loop and fast -paced innovation).
D2C brands are breaking through the distribution moat of legacy FMCG brands (enabled
by rising ecommerce and digital ecosystem) posing a structural threat especially to
premiumization tailwind of legacy FMCG brands.
While a highly consolidated BPC market and an under-served consumer provide the key
backdrop for rise of D2C brands, a fast-growing online BPC market where D2C model
scores over the traditional distribution, innovation and marketing model puts D2C
brands in a strong position to grow and challenge legacy FMCG brands.
Exhibit 12: Consolidated BPC market, rising online penetration, evolving consumer and robust ecosystem – stage set for D2C
Highly consolidated BPC market provides perfect backdrop for D2C brands
BPC market in India is highly consolidated and is dominated by the top-5 players - control
between 50-90% market share in several key BPC sub-categories. On aggregate basis, top-10
players in the Indian BPC market control ~53% share (has been trending down from 60%+ over
the past decade) vs. ~26% at a global level. Rich brand legacy, strong dist ribution network and
high media spends have helped legacy FMCG brands flourish, maintain high market share, and
create strong entry barriers (due to high cost of building a new brand). However, many of these
entry barriers are disappearing with rise of ecommerce/ digital ecosystem (well supported by
third party manufacturing/ logistics infrastructure) enabling a flurry of D2C brands.
Exhibit 13: Top-5 control 50-90% share in key BPC categories Exhibit 14: Top-10 share in BPC at 53% (albeit trending down)
Market share of top-5 companies in key BPC categories, FY20 (%) Market share of top-10 companies in BPC market in India (%)
100 86 89 70 65 64
83 62 61 60
80 74 70 60 57 55
68 54 53 53
63 59
60 50 50
(%)
(%)
40 40
20 30
0 20
Facial Skin Care
Shampoos
Men's shaving
Body Wash
Bar Soap
Baby Care
Toothpaste
Body Skin Care
Colourants
10
FY17
FY11
FY12
FY13
FY14
FY15
FY16
FY18
FY19
FY20
Source: Industry estimates, Axis Capital Source: Industry estimates, Axis Capital
Exhibit 15: Top-10 global BPC companies… Exhibit 16: …had ~26% share in USD 522 bn global BPC market
Brand revenue from BPC segments, CY19 (USD bn) Market share of top-10 (aggregate) in global BPC market, CY19 (%)
40 34
Top-10
30 25 26%
19
20 15
10 9
10 7 6 5 5
0
Beiersdorf
P&G
Loreal
Kao
Coty
Amore Pacific
Estee Lauder
Shiseido
Others
74%
Source: Avendus D2C report, Axis Capital Source: Avendus D2C report, Axis Capital
D2C distribution model tuned for faster GTM and greater control
D2C companies predominantly sell directly to consumer (through their own website or
marketplaces) bypassing traditional method of distribution which goes through multiple
intermediaries (manufacturer -> distributor -> wholesaler -> retailer -> consumer). D2C model
does score over traditional distribution on multiple aspects:
D2C enjoys faster time-to-market as it cuts through multiple-tier structure/ intermediaries.
D2C model enables a constant feedback loop with customers, faster innovation timelines
and optimized inventory management.
D2C also enjoys superior control over customer data and experience enabling better
engagement and repeat purchases.
Exhibit 17: Traditional distribution model vs… Exhibit 18: … D2C (Direct-to-Consumer) model
Marketplaces
Offline
Exhibit 19: Overall BPC to grow at ~12% CAGR, online BPC to grow faster at ~27% CAGR over FY22-27
FY16 FY19 FY20 FY21 FY22 FY23E FY24E FY25E FY26E FY27E CAGR (%)
FY16-19 FY19-22 F22-27
Market size (Rs bn)
Overall BPC 897 1,176 1,267 1,120 1,267 1,417 1,584 1,772 1,981 2,199 9.4 2.5 11.7
Online BPC 17 46 70 91 134 179 231 294 368 442 39.1 43.1 26.9
Offline BPC 880 1,130 1,197 1,029 1,133 1,238 1,353 1,477 1,613 1,757 8.7 0.1 9.2
Online penetration (%) 1.9 3.9 5.5 8.1 10.6 12.6 14.6 16.6 18.6 20.1
Incremental Market size (Rs bn)
Overall BPC 91 -147 147 150 167 187 209 218
Online BPC 24 21 44 44 53 63 74 74
Offline BPC 67 -168 103 106 115 125 135 144
Online share of incremental (%) 29.6 29.5 31.5 33.5 35.5 33.7
Source: RedSeer, Axis Capital
Growth in BPC
spend by Millenials
and GenZ
Rise in spend in
Premiumization
specialized BPC
(led by increased
categories and
awareness and
hyper-
spending powers)
personalization
Explosion of Online
Digital integration
content-led
BPC growth (rising use of digital
discovery (Social
commerce/live levers tools like virtual
try-ons, stores)
selling)
Online BPC a ~Rs 440 bn opportunity by FY27; to account for a third of incremental growth
Within BPC, online penetration in India stood at 10%+ in FY22, significantly lower than the US
We note online BPC is likely
(15-20% in CY19) and China (25-35% in CY19) highlighting headroom for growth. We estimate
to account for a third of
online BPC to grow at strong ~27% CAGR over FY22-27 more than tripling in size to Rs 442 bn
incremental growth for the (~USD 5.5 bn; ~20%+ penetration). Higher discretionary spending especially in non-metro cities,
overall BPC market availability of specialized brands and inadequate traditional retail channels are driving higher
online BPC spends.
Exhibit 21: India’s online shopper base set to more than double over CY20-25 to 350-400 mn shoppers
Large young population: India has the largest Gen-Z and millennial population globally.
According to UN Population Division estimates 2019, ~375 mn Indians are Gen -Z (10-24
years of age) and ~333 mn Indians are millennials (25-39 years of age), forming ~51% of the
Indian population. Both groups are considered as India’s biggest spenders, which is likely to
increase further as they enter their prime earning and spending years.
Exhibit 22: India has high % of Gen Z + Millennial population compared to China and US
800 100%
708
581 80%
600
51% 60%
(mn)
200 133
20%
0 0%
India China USA
Source: RedSeer, Axis Capital
Strong growth from tier 2+ cities: Industry estimates suggest that ecommerce platforms
serve ~20x the pin codes of organized retail. With ~165 mn of new online shoppers
expected to come from tier 2+ cities by FY26, there is a greater market opportunity for
online channels to tap these regions with limited physical retail infrastructure.
Exhibit 23: Tier 2+ cities to see highest online shopper addition; 165 mn+ over FY21-26
Number of online shoppers split by tier
300
(mn)
200 252
85
100
27 27 37
14
34 48 48
0
FY17 FY21 FY26E
Social media influence: Unlike in the past where TV advertisement was the primary
medium for product and brand awareness, young consumers today rely on multiple digital
sources for discovery and research. As per the Google, WPP and Kantar's Connected
Beauty Consumer Report, 9 out of 10 consumer journeys have been influenced by digital.
Exhibit 24: Top-10 D2C BPC brands in India have grown ~11x over FY19-22 to an estimated ~Rs 27 bn (aggregate revenue)
Company Key brands FY17 FY18 FY19 FY20 FY21 FY22E FY20-22 CAGR (%)
Revenue, Rs mn
Honasa Consumer Mamaearth 2 53 168 1,098 4,609 9,200 189
Vellvette Lifestyle Sugar Cosmetics 73 186 569 1,036 1,263 2,500 55
Body Cupid Wow Skin Sciences 233 216 402 865 1,887 4,000 115
Pureplay Skin Sciences Plum 41 91 219 523 906 1,750 83
Pep Technologies mCaffeine 2 12 46 403 665 1,750 108
Zed Lifestyle Beardo 84 227 482 796 638 949 9
Amishi Consumer Technologies The Moms Co. 11 74 222 457
Sanghvi Beauty and Technologies MyGlamm 138 86 137 440 446 5,000 237
Helios Lifestyle The Man Company 56 120 203 392 429 828 45
Visage Lines Personal Care Bombay Shaving Company 16 40 79 176 377 1,000 138
Total 644 1,041 2,379 5,951 11,677 26,977 113
Source: Ministry of Corporate Affairs – ROC, Axis Capital; Notes: (1) MyGlamm restructured into Good Glamm Group post spate of acquisitions in FY22 (estimated rise in
FY22 due to acquisitions), (2) The Moms Co was acquired by My Glamm for ~Rs 5 bn in Oct 2021 and (3) FY22 revenues are estimates (media reports)
Assuming an 80-20 online-offline mix for D2C players in BPC in FY22 (many among the top D2C
companies in BPC get 30%+ revenue from offline channels) , we believe D2C accounted for
~52% share in incremental revenue for online BPC and much smaller ~8% share of incremental
revenue for larger offline BPC market in FY22. Assuming D2C’s share in incremental online
revenue to settle a shade higher between 60-65% (as exit run-rate for the top-10 D2C
companies is much higher vs. FY22E revenues with aggressive plans) and share in incremental
offline revenue to inch up (to ~20% in FY27E, as they scale up focus on offline), we estimate D2C
market size in BPC to grow at ~45% CAGR (6x+) over FY22-27 to Rs350 bn and share of D2C in
total BPC to rise to ~16% by FY27 (54% share in online and 6% in offline).
Exhibit 27: D2C size in BPC to grow at 45% CAGR over FY22-27 to Rs 350 bn (~USD 4.5 bn); ~16% share of overall BPC
FY20 FY21 FY22 FY23E FY24E FY25E FY26E FY27E CAGR (%)
FY22-27
Market size (Rs bn)
Overall BPC 1,267 1,120 1,267 1,417 1,584 1,772 1,981 2,199 11.7
Online BPC 70 91 134 179 231 294 368 442 26.9
Offline BPC 1,197 1,029 1,133 1,238 1,353 1,477 1,613 1,757 9.2
Online penetration (%) 5.5 8.1 10.6 12.6 14.6 16.6 18.6 20.1
Total D2C BPC Size 12 24 55 96 145 207 278 350 44.7
Online revenue salience (%) 95 90 80 76 73 71 70 68
Offline revenue salience (%) 5 10 20 24 27 29 30 32
Incremental share in online (%) 47 52 65 63 65 62 60
Incremental share in offline (%) 8 11 14 16 18 19
Market share of D2C (%)
- in Total BPC 1.0 2.1 4.3 6.8 9.2 11.7 14.0 15.9
- in Online BPC 17 24 33 41 46 50 52 54
- in Offline BPC 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6
Source: RedSeer, Axis Capital (D2C sizing is our estimates)
Exhibit 28: D2C has identified multiple product white spaces – ingredient based, natural/organic, solution-based and celebrity-led
Hero ingredient
Wow Skin Science launched mCaffeine has built entire The Man Company has Mamaearth has launched
range of apple cider vinegar- brand around coffee-based launched caffeine-based range range of onion-based products
based products products of products for face and beard
Efficacy, customization or
solutions-based products
Sugar Cosmetics focuses on Minimalist focuses on Skincraft uses tech-driven Deconstruct Skincare focuses
creating products that are delivering efficacy - approach (AI & ML) to provide on transparent, solution-
long-lasting, weather-proof, based skincare products dermatologically approved and oriented and evidence-based
and suitable for the tropical customized skincare solutions skincare products
Indian weather
Celebrity-led brands
Exhibit 29: D2C has often identified pricing whitespace… Exhibit 30: … in the mass premium segment
Indexed pricing (to Lakme) of Matte lipsticks Indexed pricing (to Lakme) of foundation compact powder
878
1,000 350
290
800 300
250
600
200
325
125
230
400
100
150
179
166
115
88
100
83
83
200 100
67
32
42
18
0 50
Maybelline NY
NY Bae
Plum
Loreal
MAC
Sugar
Myglamm
Elle18
0
Lakme
Mamaearth
Plum
MAC
Maybelline
Sugar
Myglamm
Lakme
Elle18
Source: Nykaa, Purplle, Amazon, Axis Capital Source: Nykaa, Purplle, Amazon, Axis Capital
Exhibit 31: Indexed pricing (to Dove) of anti-dandruff shampoo Exhibit 32: Indexed pricing (to Lakme) of face wash
130
202
200
200
250 140
116
112
108
108
108
100
120
150
200
140
86
100
100
150
77
94
69
86
65
81
80
70
70
100
57
46
60
50
40
0
20
Loreal Professional
Kesh King
Beardo
Dove
Dabur Vatika
Mamaearth
Wow
Mcaffeine
Clinic
Himalaya
0
Everyuth
Nivea
Pears
Garnier
Mamaearth
Wow
Clean & Clear
Simple
Plum
Myglamm
Lakme
Ponds
Himalaya
Source: Nykaa, Purplle, Amazon, Axis Capital Source: Nykaa, Purplle, Amazon, Axis Capital
Exhibit 33: And in many cases D2C takes the… Exhibit 34: … premium positioning route
Indexed pricing (to Nivea) of body wash Indexed pricing (to Dove) of body lotion
233
199
250 250
185
170
167
190
157
147
200
175
125
200
100
100
100
150
133
125
150
68
109
63
100
57
100
51
85
84
84
83
50 100
69
0
50
Nivea
Pears
Nykaa
Vivel
Beardo
Mamaearth
Mcaffeine
Fiama
Lux
Dove
Wow
Plum
Bombay Shaving Co
Palmolive
0
Vaseline
Everyuth
Nivea
Mamaearth
Parachute
Dove
Wow
Plum
Myglamm
Himalaya
Boroplus
Ponds
Source: Nykaa, Purplle, Amazon, Axis Capital Source: Nykaa, Purplle, Amazon, Axis Capital
Agile product innovation and manufacturing: Most D2C brands work largely with contract
manufacturing and are asset light and focus on agile innovation with higher number of SKUs
given – (1) D2C BPC brands enjoy high gross margin in the range of 65-70%+ which gives
them firepower to try and fail and sustain high ad spends and (2) cost of failure on online is
generally low (due to lower cost to launch and limited inventory required from start). Also,
D2C brands are more agile due to 'collaborative innovation'; i.e. they 'ask' consumers
questions day in and day out (online/ social media feedback, search trends etc.) and launch
and fail/ succeed faster vs. legacy FMCG brands.
Exhibit 35: D2C brands in BPC space enjoy high gross margin in the range of 65 to 70%+
Company Key brands FY17 FY18 FY19 FY20 FY21
Gross margin (%)
Honasa Consumer Mamaearth 68 69 65 65 71
Vellvette Lifestyle Sugar Cosmetics 53 62 60 61 68
Body Cupid Wow Skin Sciences 65 57 39 39 55
Pureplay Skin Sciences Plum 60 70 65 65 70
Pep Technologies mCaffeine 76 66 63 65 63
Zed Lifestyle Beardo 61 68 73 59 55
Amishi Consumer Technologies The Moms Co. 56 60 53 58
Sanghvi Beauty and Technologies MyGlamm 92 82 69 68 61
Helios Lifestyle The Man Company 63 57 49 50 55
Visage Lines Personal Care Bombay Shaving Company 63 35 52 57 48
Total 69 63 59 58 65
Source: Ministry of Corporate Affairs – ROC, Axis Capital
Strong social/ online focus to recruit/ retain consumers: To recruit/ retain consumers,
D2C brands spend bulk of their advertising budget on digital platforms/ social networks
often through influencers with high focus on user generated content . This approach helps
educate consumers/ hasten consumer adoption and enables a strong feedback loop and
higher responsiveness driving superior customer retention and repeats.
Exhibit 36: D2C brands have a strong focus on digital marketing and lead most legacy brands in social presence
# of followers on Instagram (in ‘000)
2,300
2,200
3,000
1,100
1,000
1,000
2,000
830
693
655
639
635
569
488
403
324
313
300
248
241
217
1,000
190
129
114
111
106
100
47
41
34
0
Nivea
Vaseline
Mamearth
The Man Co
Beardo
Garnier
Elle India
Juicy Chemistry
Lux
WoW
Mcaffeine
Simple
Renee Cosmetics
Just Herbs
Loreal
Faces Canada
Plum
Nyx Cosmetics
Sugar
Himalaya
Mac Cosmetics
Ustraa
Myglamm
Lakme
Ponds
Body Shop
Good Vibes
Bombay Shaving Co
Source: Instagram, Axis Capital; Note: Grey highlight refers to legacy/ incumbent brands
While D2C media strategy differs significantly from legacy FMCG companies, both approaches
are based on target consumer (and where they shop) and there is a rising trend of convergence
as well (legacy companies are rapidly increasing digital spends while D2C brands have started to
allocate a higher % of advertising budget to traditional media as they expand offline).
Significant clutter: With rising competitive intensity and pressure to sustain high growth,
we are noticing increasing brand launches in similar niches driving significant brand clutter.
This is leading to higher consumer churn/ lower customer loyalty and rising costs of
customer acquisition.
Exhibit 37: Popular ingredients have a high clutter of brands in each of the key segments in BPC
Onion-based shampoo
Mamaearth WoW Love, Beauty & Planet Naturali Plum Good Vibes Just Herbs
Vitamin C -based facewash
WoW Mamaearth Lotus Herbals Dot & Key Plum The Man Co The Moms Co
Charcoal-based body wash
Mamaearth Good Vibes The Man Company Beardo Bombay Shaving Co WoW Ustraa
Source: Axis Capital
Improving profitability: While initial focus for D2C brands is on growth and not
profitability, as brands scale up and achieve a certain size profitability takes center stage to
ensure sustainability. Maintaining Customer Acquisition Costs (CAC) in a tight band is one
the most important metrics to ensure survival for D2C brands. With rising brand clutter and
proliferation of D2C brands across categories advertising on social media/ cost of
influencers has ballooned pushing CAC higher for most companies. In such scenario, it is
imperative for D2C brands to diversify their channel presence (go phygital/ expand omni-
channel presence) and marketing route (look at alternatives beyond digital alone).
Interestingly, top D2C brands in BPC space have managed to grow with limit ed burn and
companies like Honasa (Mamaearth) have managed to turn profitable in a short span.
Exhibit 38: Top D2C brands in BPC space have managed to grow with limited burn; Honasa (Mamaearth) turned profitable in FY21
Company Key brands FY17 FY18 FY19 FY20 FY21
EBITDA (Rs mn)
Honasa Consumer Mamaearth (3) (4) (45) (78) 258
Vellvette Lifestyle Sugar Cosmetics 2 6 (37) (165) (168)
Body Cupid Wow Skin Sciences 3 11 (79) (167) (276)
Pureplay Skin Sciences Plum 4 7 15 10 (32)
Pep Technologies mCaffeine (7) (9) (22) (54) (83)
Zed Lifestyle Beardo 3 (2) 6 33 (48)
Amishi Consumer Technologies The Moms Co. (21) (41) (104) (173)
Sanghvi Beauty and Technologies MyGlamm (104) (280) (330) (653) (325)
Helios Lifestyle The Man Company (13) (59) (73) (141) (86)
Visage Lines Personal Care Bombay Shaving Company (17) (54) (86) (153) (150)
Total (132) (406) (691) (1,472) (1,082)
Source: Ministry of Corporate Affairs – ROC, Axis Capital
Going phygital: After establishing a strong presence in online BPC, most D2C companies
are venturing offline and going phygital (omni/ hybrid) to tap into a larger consumer base
and serve the consumer wherever they shop. However, offline is the bastion of legacy
FMCG players and garnering presence there will be challenging and highly competitive for
D2C companies and will require higher investments (to build distribution network and
stock higher inventory). On the positive side, a successful offline foray will give D2C
companies better visibility for their brands (as online gets significantly cluttered) , reduce
customer acquisition costs and tap into newer markets.
Exhibit 39: D2C revenue salience from offline rising… Exhibit 40: …as they expand physical reach
Offline revenue as % of total, FY22 Number of outlets reached
70 65 60,000 50,000
60 50,000 45,000
40,000
50 40,000 35,000
40 35 35 35
30 30 30,000 25,000
30
20 15 20,000 10,000
10
10,000 5,000 2,000
10
0 0
MyGlamm
MyGlamm
Plum
Plum
Sugar Cosmetics
Sugar Cosmetics
Mamaearth
Mamaearth
Wow Skin Sciences
mCaffeine
The Man Co
Bombay Shaving
Company
Co
Source: Media reports/articles, Axis Capital Source: Media reports/articles, Axis Capital
Scalability: While it has become extremely easy to launch a D2C brand, scaling up one
beyond a certain size/ scale remains the key challenge, and only a handful have been able to
cross the critical mass with a long tail of brands at sub-scale operations. While a strong niche
and product market fit, solid execution and high spends on branding may get a brandto ~Rs
1 bn size in current market scenario in a span of few years, scaling the brand beyond ~Rs 1
bn requires significantly higher investments and broader strategy including, but not limited
to –
Going omni-channel: This is not an optional focus area for D2C brands looking to scale
big (as discussed above). We note many top D2C companies are getting nearly 30%+ of
their revenue from offline business.
Exhibit 41: Top-10 D2C brands in BPC on aggregate had 3% share in overall BPC and ~23% share of online BPC in FY22
FY16 FY17 FY18 FY19 FY20 FY21 FY22 CAGR (%)
(Rs bn) FY16-19 FY19-22
Market size
Overall BPC 897 984 1,073 1,176 1,267 1,120 1,267 9.4 2.5
Online BPC 17 26 35 46 70 91 134 39.1 43.1
Offline BPC 880 958 1,037 1,130 1,197 1,029 1,133 8.7 0.1
Online penetration (%) 1.9 2.6 3.3 3.9 5.5 8.1 10.6
BPC revenues of key FMCG cos
HUL 142 144 159 177 173 180 195 7.6 3.3
Dabur 23 22 23 26 26 29 32 4.3 7.7
Colgate 37 38 40 42 43 46 48 4.9 4.6
Marico 35 34 38 45 43 46 51 8.9 4.2
GCPL 21 21 24 26 24 27 32 7.1 7.3
Emami 12 13 14 14 13 14 15 7.7 0.4
Loreal India 29 29 29 33 35 29 34 3.5 1.7
Gillette India 20 18 17 19 17 20 23 -1.7 6.6
Bajaj Consumer Care 9 8 8 9 9 9 9 1.6 -1.4
Nivea India 6 7 9 10 11 8 10 17.0 -0.5
Total Revenues 333 333 360 401 394 407 448 6.4 3.8
Total Consumer level Revenues 475 476 515 572 563 581 640
% share of Top-10 in BPC 53 48 48 49 44 52 51
Top-10 D2C Companies in BPC
Total Revenues 2 6 12 27 124.7
Total Consumer level Revenues 3 9 17 39
% share of Top-10 in BPC 0.3 0.7 1.5 3.0
% share of online BPC 6 10 15 23
Source: Company, Ministry of Corporate Affairs – ROC, RedSeer, Axis Capital; Note: (1) HUL revenue for FY16-18 adjusted as per LTL growth rates to make it comparable to
post GST/ Ind-AS scenario and (2) FY22 revenues for Loreal India and Nivea India are estimates
Focused on larger opportunity: Even though online BPC space is growing significantly
faster, offline BPC (GT + MT) is estimated to remain the dominant channel constituting
80%+ of the market even in FY27. Most legacy FMCG companies are focused on making
products which target this larger pie through their large distribution network. However,
consumption trends are changing much faster, as consumers move from family to individual
consumption habits. The traditional FMCG model is not servicing a long tail of such
consumers looking for better products.
Exhibit 42: Offline channel to remain dominant channel in BPC (~80% salience in FY27E)
Offline Online
100%
80%
60%
95 92 89 87
40% 85 83 81 80 78 77 76
20%
0%
FY23E
FY24E
FY25E
FY26E
FY27E
FY28E
FY29E
FY30E
FY20
FY21
FY22
Behind the curve on innovation: Legacy FMCG companies are relatively slower on the
innovation curve due to a combination of the following reasons: (1) They do not innovate
enough because they feel certain innovations will not move the needle for them at their
size; hence, they keep on targeting mass cohorts, (2) larger set-up is less agile given rigid
processes and hierarchy which entails a slower time to innovate, and (3) they usually prefer
to launch innovations through variants/ sub-brands within mother brands given the high
cost of building a new brand and the leverage associated with spends on the mother brand.
Differentiated approach to marketing: In our conversation with Varun Alagh (Co-founder,
CEO of Mamaearth), we picked up strong insights on where traditional marketing lags vs.
D2C marketing:
Media has been digitized and can be bought in bite sized packets now ( target specific
people looking for specific products). Brands like Mamaearth spend on media in a more
effective and measurable way vs legacy FMCG companies.
Traditional FMCG way of working is outbound marketing. This involves focusing on
creating brand awareness with non-targeted content (through repeat TV ads, widest
possible reach) and banking on brand recall. Whereas, digital first brands practice
inbound marketing. This is built on premise that consumers are always looking for
solutions (online) and involves identifying consumer problems and offer products/
services tailored to them.
Traditional FMCG companies tend to look at consumer segments that are broad.
Digital first brands believe consumers are a more diverse group than the way
traditional FMCG companies segment them; hence, digital brands' communication is
personalized (and automated). Also, their frequency of communication is based on
each customer’s proclivity to purchase (rather than ads on media with wide reach and
low personalization).
D2C companies are leveraging ‘content’ better than traditional FMCG companies:
D2C companies focus lot more on educating the consumers than advertising their
products/ services. Consumers tend to believe more in a message from trustworthy
bloggers/ youtubers than that delivered by celebrities (in TV ads) . Traditional FMCG
companies have been behind in leveraging these media.
Exhibit 43: FMCG companies are launching their own variants or brands to latch onto D2C bandwagon
FMCG companies are latching on to ingredient-based wave (e.g. onion)
FMCG companies are also launching their own D2C brands/ variants
Using inorganic route: Besides using inorganic route to build a future-fit portfolio of D2C
brands, FMCG companies are also using this route to garner domain expertise on D2C style
of business and tap into newer niche/ micro markets. Some of the prominent examples of
acquisitions/ investments by FMCG companies in BPC include (1) Marico – Beardo and Just
Herbs, (2) Emami – The Man Company, (3) Colgate Palmolive and Reckitt Benckiser –
Bombay Shaving Company, (4) ITC – Mother Sparsh, and (5) Unilever Ventures – Plum and
The Minimalist.
website (2 mn unique visitors every month) and the brand garners ~30% revenue from e-
commerce.
Marico’s digital brands portfolio clocked an exit run-rate of Rs 1.8-2 bn in FY22 and the
company aspires to achieve Rs 4.5-5 bn target by FY24.
Dabur targets ~Rs 1 bn revenue in FY23 through its portfolio of digital-first brands across
personal care and foods segment.
D2C’s ‘relevant market’ in BPC to grow faster at 14% CAGR over FY22-27
D2C companies in BPC are largely focused towards categories like baby care, cosmetics, skin
care, fragrances, hair care, body wash/ hand wash, depilatories, and men’s grooming (including
shaving). This ‘relevant market’ for D2C companies in BPC together constitutes ~57% of BPC
market i.e. ~Rs 719 bn in FY22 (~USD 9 bn).
While overall BPC is estimated to grow at 11.7% CAGR over FY22-27 (partly aided by lower
base of FY22), the ‘relevant market’ for D2C BPC companies is estimated to grow faster at
~14% CAGR while the ‘other categories’ are likely to grow slower at ~8% CAGR.
Exhibit 44: ‘Relevant’ BPC market for D2C is likely to grow at ~14% CAGR over FY22-27 (55-60% salience of BPC)
CAGR (%)
FY16 ...FY19 FY20 FY21 FY22 FY23E FY24E ...FY27E FY16-19 FY19-22 FY22-27E
India BPC market (Rs bn) 897 1,176 1,267 1,120 1,267 1,417 1,584 2,199 9.4 2.5 11.7
Relevant BPC categories (Rs bn) 473 649 713 624 719 822 938 1,379 11.2 3.4 13.9
% of total 53 55 56 56 57 58 59 63
Other categories (Rs bn) 424 526 554 496 548 595 646 820 7.4 1.4 8.4
Online BPC
Online market (overall BPC market) 17 46 70 91 134 179 231 442 39.1 43.1 26.9
Online penetration (%) 1.9 3.9 5.5 8.1 10.6 12.6 14.6 20.1
Online - relevant categories (Rs bn) 11 31 51 59 86 118 157 305 39.7 39.7 29.0
Online penetration (%) 2.4 4.8 7.2 9.5 11.9 14.3 16.7 22.1
% of online BPC market 73 65 64 66 68 69
Source: RedSeer, Axis Capital
While several BPC categories (and most of D2C’s focus categories, in our view) have
historical and potential growth rates in double-digits, the overall BPC market growth rate
is lower due to high salience of Bath & Shower and Hair Care categories (together ~48% of
BPC) which grew at 6-7% over CY15-19. A large portion of sales mix in these categories
comes from highly penetrated sub-categories like bar soaps (~85% Bath & Shower
category) and hair oils (large salience in Hair Care) which have medium term growth
potential of mid-single digit in our view. As income levels continue to rise, Indian consumers
will keep upgrading for higher order benefits to sub-categories like body wash/ shower gels
(replacing bar soaps) and hair serums/ styling gels etc. (in Hair Care).
D2C’s focus categories enjoy higher digital adoption vs. basic personal categories.
Assuming a shade higher digital penetration in relevant category mix vs. overall online BPC
penetration, we estimate 65-70% of online BPC market is addressable TAM for D2C vs.
~57% of overall BPC TAM.
Exhibit 45: Skincare, cosmetics, fragrances, shampoos form 2/3 rd of D2C relevant market
Breakup of category mix for D2C relevant market in BPC, FY22 (% of total)
Baby care Relevant Bath &
7% Shower
Men's Shaving 6% Hair Colors
9% 7%
Shampoos
Depilatories
11%
3%
Styling agents
1%
Fragrances/Deo
dorants Colour
Cosmetics Hair
11% Skin Care
15% oils/conditioners
27%
3%
Exhibit 46: Bath & Shower, hair care, skincare and oral care form 3/4 th of BPC category
Breakup of category mix for overall BPC, FY22 (% of total)
Colour
Cosmetics
8% Men's Shaving
Oral Care 5%
Skin Care 12% Fragrances/Deo
15% dorants
6%
Depilatories
2%
Hair Care Bath and
22% Shower Other categories
26% 4%
Exhibit 47: D2C focus categories like cosmetics have ~20% digital adoption
19.1
20
15 13.2
11
(%)
8.6 9.1
10
0
CY17 CY18 CY19 CY20
Exhibit 48: D2C focus categories in BPC include hair care, skin care, bath & body, cosmetics and men’s grooming
Product presence of key D2C companies across focus categories
WoW Mamaearth Plum MyGlamm Sugar Bombay Shaving The Man Co Beardo
Hair Care
Hair oil
Shampoo/Conditioners
Hair Masks/Serums
Hair styling gels/wax
Skin Care
Face wash/scrub
Face Cream
Face Serum/Mask
Moisturizer
Sunscreen
Make up remover
Toner
Under Eye Cream
Bath & Body
Body Wash/ Scrub
Body Moisturizer
Bath Soap
Hand Wash/Cream
Makeup/Cosmetics
Lips/Face/Eyes/Nails
Men's Grooming
Beard grooming
Electric trimmer
Shaving range
Men's Toiletries
Others
Nutrition & Health
Wellness
Babycare range
Fragrances
Women's Hygiene
Depilatories
Source: Company, Axis Capital; Note: Green Indicates presence in category and orange indicates the company is not present in the category
However, HUL’s BPC growth slowed down over FY19-22 to ~3% overall and a weaker
Overall BPC market during
~1% ex-soaps (as per our estimate). Consumption slowdown in FY20 followed by Covid
FY19-22 grew at a slow pace impact (particularly in BPC) in FY21-22 were the key drags. To calculate ex-soaps revenue
of 2.5% CAGR and offline for HUL, we estimate soaps salience at ~35% of overall BPC in FY22 and ~8% CAGR in soaps
BPC was flattish during FY19-22 driven by price hikes.
However, we note that during the same period, the D2C market in BPC grew ~10x from
Rs 5 bn to ~Rs 55 bn as online penetration of BPC surged from ~4% to 10%+.
D2C surge clearly indicates that HUL/ other legacy FMCG BPC players have lost share to
D2C players (D2C, on aggregate, garnered ~4.3% share of overall BPC in FY22; not
captured by company/ Nielsen data due to their inaccuracy in capturing online sales).
Is this shift temporary (channel-led; offline BPC over FY19-22 was flat due to Covid drag –
growth likely to pick up back to 9% CAGR over FY22-27) or structural (consumer-led) will
become clearer over the next few years as Covid tailwinds fade for D2C and offline retail
stabilizes for legacy FMCG companies. However, our growth assumptions for HUL’s BPC
division of ~10% (overall) and ~11% (ex-soaps) revenue CAGR during FY22-25 (stronger ~13%
CAGR over FY23-25, ex-soaps) is at risk if online BPC penetration continues to track as per
expectations driving sustained D2C onslaught.
Exhibit 50: HUL’s BPC revenue (ex-soaps) grew at ~1% CAGR over FY19-22
HUL’s BPC growth slowed
Reported BPC Ex-soaps BPC
down over FY19-22 to ~3% 16
13.5 13.6
overall and a weaker ~1% 11.9
12 10.4 10.7 10.8
ex-soaps (as per our 9.1 9.6 9.5
8.3 7.8
estimate). However, during 8
the same period, the D2C 3.4 3.6 3.6
4
market in BPC grew ~10x 1.8 0.9
from Rs 5 bn to ~Rs 55 bn as 0
online penetration of BPC (1.3)
(4) (1.8)
surged from ~4% to 10%+ FY17 FY18 FY19 FY20 FY21 FY22 FY23E FY24E FY25E
Source: Company, Axis Capital
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1. The analyst(s) declares that neither he/ his relatives have a Beneficial or Actual ownership of > 1% of equity of subject company/ companies;
2. The analyst(s) declares that he has no material conflict of interest with the subject company/ companies of this report;
3. The research analyst (or analysts) certifies that the views expressed in the research report accurately reflect such research analyst's personal views
about the subject securities and issuers; and
4. The research analyst (or analysts) certifies that no part of his or her compensation was, is, or will be directly or indirectly related to the specific
recommendations or views contained in the research report.