SEDERMA-MP-ReVitAlide-EN

ReVitAlide ™
Hero encapsulated retinol

for advanced skincare
Part of Croda International Plc © 2022

2. 3.
1. Technology Main menu 4. Conclusion
6. Market 5. Formulation
Smart science to improve lives™

2. 3.
1. Technology
Characteristics 4. Conclusion
Encapsulation efficacy
Stability

REVITALIDE ™
What is retinol?
Retinol also known as vitamin A is a liposoluble retinoid, used in ancient Egypt to treat night blindness.
Essential nutrient involved in many biological functions such as embryogenesis, bone growth,
immune system, reproduction, eyesight and cell cycle.
Animal source – preformed vitamin A

Retinol and retinyl esters
Plant source – provitamin A

Carotenoids (b-carotene, a-carotene, and
b-cryptoxanthin)
Lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin, are non-provitamin A

carotenoids → not converted into vitamin A.
(Blaner WS., 2020)
4
REVITALIDE ™
Retinol advantages compared to its derivatives and alternatives
Vitamin A (retinol) Provitamin A (carotenoids)
Less irritant than retinoic acid and
Mild activity – must be
more stable than retinal. Cutaneous metabolism of retinoids converted to retinal and
retinoic acid. Retinal activity
is higher than of
b-carotene but the latter is
Preformed vitamin A better tolerated and more
stable to light/UV.
Well tolerated but mild
activity – must be
converted to retinol and
retinoic acid.
Vitamin A (retinoic acid)
Hydroxy-pinacolone retinoate and retinol-like (e.g. bakuchiol) Very high activity, very irritant.
(new alternatives, limited data available) Pharmaceutical use only.
5
REVITALIDE ™
Retinol is a multi-function active
• Reduces fine lines and wrinkles • Reinforces skin barrier function and immunity
• Reduces stretch marks • Brightens the skin
• Smoothes skin blemishes • Stimulates hair growth
Promotes cell Increases Reduces the production of Speeds up

proliferation and extracellular matrix enzymes involved in the cell
differentiation components extracellular matrix degradation turnover
(collagen, GAG…) (collagenase, MMP…) and
melanin content
6
REVITALIDE ™
…but retinol is also a tricky ingredient!
Dryness
Itchiness
Skin irritation: retinol burn or retinisation is a
For consumers skin irritation that may happen when people use Scaling
retinoid for the first time. Depending on skin type, Burning

Erythema
it results to an irritant contact dermatitis also
known as retinoid dermatitis.
It is recommended to use retinol progressively few times per

week at low concentration, preferably in evening skincare routine.
7
REVITALIDE ™
…but retinol is also a tricky ingredient!
Instability of retinol:
For formulators Due to its chemical structure, UV decomposition of retinol

retinol as well as other retinoids,
are highly subject to various Free radicals, Decrease of retinol
reactive oxygen content in formulations.
chemical changes depending on species
(ROS) and other Product efficacy
environmental conditions (light, metabolites
Free retinol is diminished.
temperature, oxygen, pH,
solvents…).
Retinol must be stored at temperature inferior to -4°C

and under inert gas.
8
REVITALIDE ™
Sederma’s hero encapsulated retinol
Re Retinol
or PROTECTION
Vit A Vitamin A
L Lead
TARGETING
I Inside
D Delivered
TOLERANCE
E Efficiently
EFFICACY
9
REVITALIDE ™
A unique* capsule technology
ReVitAlide™ is a pale yellow liquid containing 3 % encapsulated retinol in suspension in water.
PROTECTION
The lipid capsules are spherical structures with visible and regular edges.
ReVitAlide™ structure under microscope
Hydrophilic outer face

(Lauryl glucoside)
Lipid
Waxy body shell capsule
(Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan
Stearate and Lecithin)
Oily core
(retinol, Tocopherol and
Soybean Oil)
(*): patent pending
10
REVITALIDE ™
Proof of encapsulation via fluorescence – method
Due to its chemical structure, retinol appears blue under fluorescent microscopy.
PROTECTION
4 different samples were observed under fluorescent light:

1- Non encapsulated Retinol is fluorescent → will 2- Placebo capsules (without retinol) non fluorescent
appear blue under fluorescent light → will appear black under fluorescent light
→ →
3- Mixture of Free retinol and Placebo capsules 4- Retinol inside the ReVitAlide™ capsule
(without retinol) → should appear blue and black (fluorescence is hidden) → should appear black
+ → = →
11
REVITALIDE ™
Proof of encapsulation spectroscopy images – results
PROTECTION
Free retinol +
Free retinol ReVitAlide™
Placebo (empty capsules) Placebo
Fluorescence
100 %
encapsulation
efficacy
Non encapsulated Non encapsulated

Empty capsules without Retinol is inside the capsule
Retinol → droplets
Retinol is fluorescent retinol do not fluoresce (fluorescence is hidden) →
→ appears blue appear blue outside &
→ appear black appears black
around the empty
1 2 capsules 3 4
No blue signal for ReVitAlide™ under fluorescent light confirming active retinol is fully encapsulated.
12
REVITALIDE ™
Capsule characterisation
Polydispersity evaluation
280 nm
Particle size
Average particle size is ~280 nm.
Narrow Particle size is homogenous.

particule size
distribution
Brownian motion of ReVitAlide™

(NanoSight NS300)
Perfectly
Particle interaction evaluation stable in
suspension
• Particles remain stable in suspension.
• No coalescence, no sedimentation, no crystallisation,
no phase separation after preparation.
13
REVITALIDE ™
Retinol’s stability within the capsules
Measured retinol content over time after exposure to light, air, or heat of the ReVitAlide™ capsules.
PROTECTION
43,37 3,38 120 120

101100
3,27
Retinol concentration (%)
Retinol concentration (%)

96 97 97 96
100 100 100 101
Retinol content (%)
96 95 95
3 101 89
3,37 3,3 83
3,16 80 80 80 92 92
2,93 88
2,68 Closed 80 RT
2 60 60
55 Free retinol
40 40 40°C
In use ReVitAlide™
1
20 20
50°C
0 0 0
0 10 20 30 40 Control NI 1h irradiation 0 50 100 150 200
Days Days
Air stability UV stability Thermal stability
ReVitAlide™ is more stable to air, UV and heat than free retinol.

It can be used repeatedly up 15 days after opening at room temperature.
14
3.
2.
1. Technology Skin release 4. Conclusion
Cutaneous penetration
Bioavailability

REVITALIDE ™
Skin release profile – method
Franz diffusion cell is an in Donor compartment

vitro technical device commonly (product application) The test product is applied
used to assess the permeation on a synthetic membrane
of actives through the skin. via the donor compartment.
A fluid with the capacity to

Membrane
solubilise the active
circulates under the
membrane in the receptor
Sampling port chamber. The active
ingredient level in the
Heater circulator
fluid is quantified at
regular time intervals. The
Receptor chamber amount of residual active
on the membrane surface
Stirbar as well as within the
membrane are also
Franz diffusion cell quantified at the end of
the experiment.
16
REVITALIDE ™
Skin release profile – results
TARGETING
Skin release profile of active ingredients Release from finished products
700 140
600 120
Retinol released (ug/cm2)
Retinol released (ug/cm 2)

Improved
500 biovailability 100
400 80
300 Free retinol 60 Free retinol

ReVitAlide™ ReVitAlide™
200 40
Controlled
100 release 20
0 0
0 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 0 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000
Time (min) Time (min)
ReVitAlide™ promotes controlled and prolonged retinol release resulting in higher bioavailability
compared to free retinol.
17
REVITALIDE ™
Release mechanism of retinol from the capsule
TARGETING
Erosion
Degradation of the capsule
Diffusion
Transfer through the capsule shell
(membrane)
Thanks to the combination of diffusion and erosion processes, ReVitAlide™ progressively releases
retinol into the skin.
18
REVITALIDE ™
Skin penetration evaluation – method
Via Raman spectroscopy

2 Complementary studies performed by BIO-EC (France) on skin
explants (abdoplasties from a 46 and 40-year old female donors)
ReVitAlide™ 9 %* (*): 0.27 % active retinol ReVitAlide™ 3 %* (*): 0.09 % active retinol
Evaluation of skin penetration against free retinol Evaluation of skin penetration over time
Evaluation of the penetration

8 and 24 hours
kinetic and tissue distribution of
later ReVitAlide™ using Raman
spectroscopy after tissue fixation
Skin explants kept alive Topical application of a
under physiological cream containing
conditions ReVitAlide™ or free retinol
19
REVITALIDE ™
Skin penetration evaluation – method
1 SC
Based on the radiation (light) – matter
SC Viable epidermis
(sample) interaction, raman spectroscopy
provides qualitative and semi-quantitative
data and enables the construction of spectral
images
2 3
Example of Raman images on the left picture
Image analysis process:

• Elimination aberrant spectra
• Baseline correction
• Smoothing & normalisation (right picture)
20
REVITALIDE ™
Skin penetration kinetic – results
Control Free retinol ReVitAlide™ 9 %*
TARGETING
(*): 0.27 % active retinol
SC Viable epidermis
8h
24h
Compared to free retinol, ReVitAlide™ highly promotes skin penetration of retinol.
21
REVITALIDE ™
Epidermal distribution – results
Control ReVitAlide™ 3 %* after 8h ReVitAlide™ 3 %* after 24h
TARGETING
No retinol (*): 0.09 % active retinol (*): 0.09 % active retinol
SC Viable epidermis
Global percentage of retinol penetration up to

100 µm of skin depth
8,00%
ReVitAlide™ provides controlled release of 7,00%
% of retinol penetration
6,00%
retinol from the stratum corneum to the living 5,00%
epidermis, down to 100 µm of skin depth, 24 hours 4,00% Control

ReVitAlide™
3,00%
after topical application.
2,00%
1,00%
0,00%
T0 T8 h T24 h
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2.
3.
1. Technology Skin tolerance 4. Conclusion
Anti-wrinkle efficacy

REVITALIDE ™
Skin tolerance – methods
TOLERANCE
Tolerance: Human Patch Test method
• 11 female and male volunteers aged between 31 to 60 years old (mean age: 51)
• Application of a semi-occlusive patch containing 9 % ReVitAlide™ diluted in distilled water

(maximised conditions – 0.27 % active retinol) for 3 days.
Sensitisation: HRIPT (Human Repeated Insult Patch Test) method

• 102 female and male volunteers aged between 26 to 70 years old (mean age: 51)
• 9 repeated applications of semi-occlusive patches containing 9 % ReVitAlide™ diluted in distilled water

(maximised conditions – 0.27 % active retinol) 3 times per week over 3 weeks (induction period) plus
1 additional application for 2 days (challenge phase).
Prior to human application, an in vitro skin irritation evaluation was carried out on Episkin® reconstructed human epidermis model according to OECD guideline N°439.
24
REVITALIDE ™
Skin tolerance – results
TOLERANCE
Tolerance: Human Patch Test method
ReVitAlide™ diluted at 9 % with distilled water (maximised conditions – 0.27 % active retinol)
under semi-occlusive patch induced no reaction of irritation and has a
very good skin compatibility.
Sensitisation: HRIPT (Human Repeated Insult Patch Test) method
ReVitAlide™ diluted at 9 % with distilled water (maximised conditions – 0.27 % active retinol)
under semi-occlusive patch on a panel of 102 test subjects with all types of skin on body induced
no reaction of irritation for 101 test subjects (one slight erythema for 1 subject).
Prior to human application, an in vitro skin irritation evaluation was carried out on Episkin® reconstructed human epidermis model according to OECD guideline N°439.
25
REVITALIDE ™
Anti-wrinkle efficacy evaluation – protocol
EFFICACY
APPLICATION
28 Mean age: 61
Cream containing Twice daily 2 month-application
55 to 68 years old 3* % ReVitAlide™
or placebo
on half-face
With crow’s feet wrinkles
(*): 0.09 % active retinol
TOLERANCE : no adverse effect observed during the study
T0 T2 months
PRIMOS® 3D Skin Measuring

Visia® CR (pictures)
26
REVITALIDE ™
Improved retinol delivery & preserved activity
T0 T2 months
EFFICACY
Wrinkle volume
-5 %*
/placebo
down to -21 %/T0

(50 % respondents)
Wrinkle depth
-10.3 %*
/placebo
Vol #51
down to -34 %/T0

(46 % respondents)
The anti-wrinkle activity of retinol within the ReVitAlide™ capsule

(**): 3-fold less than the EU
is maintained and visible at levels as low as 0.09 %** active retinol recommended use level
for face products
* Mean improvement for 28 volunteers, significance: p<0.05
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REVITALIDE ™
Wrinkle prevention – results
EFFICACY
Placebo
(right side of
the face)
Increase of wrinkle
appearance.
#56 T0 T2 months
Decrease of wrinkle
ReVitAlide™ 3 %* appearance.
(*) 0.09 % active retinol
(left side of
the face)
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2. 3.
4. Conclusion
1. Technology ReVitAlide™ benefits
Claim suggestions
Sustainability

REVITALIDE ™
Hero encapsulated retinol for advanced skincare…
ReVitAlide™ is a 95.5 %* natural derived form of encapsulated retinol. It is a stable, highly

bioavailable and well-tolerated retinol solution.
… For end consumers … For formulators
• Good skin tolerance • Retinol easy to handle

• Transcutaneous delivery of retinol • Water dispersible
• Slow and controlled release of retinol • Improved formulation stability
• Increased bioavailability of retinol into the skin • Multiple use of retinol after opening
• Modulation of retinol content • Room temperature storage
(*) Natural origin content according to ISO 16128 Reduced waste & Energy saved

REVITALIDE ™
A sustainably designed active ingredient
PEOPLE
Process and in use safety BUSINESS
• Good skin tolerance Quality assurance – easy to handle
• No need for nitrogen atmosphere
• No organic solvents • Better skin penetration
• No listed preservative – free from BHT and BHA, • Multiple use possible within 15 days – no intense
contains only tocopherol yellow colouring after opening
• Long term stability for 365 days
• More stable to UV/light exposure
PLANET
Eco-friendly innovation
• 96.50 %* Natural origin content (ISO 16128)
• 100 % readily biodegradable in 28 days
• Storage at room temperature 2-0024-06-100-00
* Natural content: 60.03 %
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REVITALIDE ™
Claim suggestions
ReVitAlide™
• Promotes skin penetration of retinol.
• Allows a controlled and prolonged release of retinol over time.
• Increases cutaneous bioavailability of retinol.
• Helps preserve retinol content in formulations.
• Smoothes the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
• Prevents skin ageing.

Retinol
• Improves overall skin condition.
• Helps achieve bright and luminous skin.
• Helps control appearance of skin blemishes and marks.
• Promotes cell turnover and healthy looking skin.
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2. 3.
5. Formulation
1. Technology Recommendations of use 4. Conclusion
Compatibilities
6. Market

Formulation tips
• Pale yellow opaque liquid • Do not freeze

• 95.5 % Natural origin content (ISO 16128) • Recommended storage temperature: 15 – 25°C
• Water dispersible • Suitable for cold process
• Recommended pH: 6.00 – 8.00 • Avoid PE/PET/PP/HDPE containers
• Compatible with carbomers • Compatible with alcohol below 5 %
« See more detail in the formulation guideline »
ReVitAlide™ is water dispersible and suitable for cold process. It is not sensitive to shearing.
ReVitAlide™ is recommended at 3 % in facial care*.
2-0024-06-100-00
(*) The SCCS (2016) considered Retinol as safe at the maximum of 0.05 % in body product and at the maximum concentration of 0.3 % in leave-on/rinsed-off
hand or face product. Please review our toxicological assessment to evaluate the appropriate handling and recommendations of use in your final product.
34
Compatibilities with ReVitAlide™ at 3 %
Max. compatible
Excipient INCI Name
concentration (%)
Arlasolve™ DMI Dimethyl Isosorbide 2
SP Arlacel™ 1690 Sorbitan Isostearate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate Not recommended
Cithrol™ DPHS PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Not recommended
Crovol™ A70 PEG-60 Almond Glycerides 2
Ethoxydiglycol Ethoxydiglycol 2
Ethanol 96° Alcohol 5
Euxyl™ PE Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin 1
Hexiol Hexanediol Not recommended
Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol 0.80
Propanediol Propanediol 1
Span™ 120 Sorbitan Isostearate 1
Span™ 80 Sorbitan Oleate Not recommended
Span™ 83 Sorbitan Sesquioleate Not recommended
Tween™ 20 Polysorbate 20 0.5
Tween™ 60 Polysorbate 60 5
« See more detail in the formulation guideline »
35
Development formulation
Anti-wrinkle hero ingredients melting cream SE0223D
Ingredient/INCI Name Functionality % w/w

Part A
This cream features a fun gel texture breaking into pieces when
Water Deionised (Aqua) - To 100 scooped with a spatula and melting upon application on the skin.
Volarest™ FL (Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer)1 Rheology modifier 2.50
This unique texture is provided by the special combination of
Potassium Sorbate Preservative 0.10 Volarest™ FL, Arlacel™ LC and Span™ 20 in combination with
Part B
Pentylene Glycol Humectant 3.00
the emollient Crodamol™ GTCC which adds moisturisation and a
Arlacel™ LC (Sorbitan Stearate (and) Sorbityl Laurate)1 Surfactant 1.70 light skin feel. ReVitAlide™, Sederma’s encapsulated retinol acts in
Microcare© Emollient DCP (Pentylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl synergy with Matrixyl® 3000 Free to promote wrinkle smoothing
Antimicrobial 1.50
Glycol (and) Decylene Glycol) 4 and improve skin tone and elasticity. Add fun to the morning routine
Part C
Crodamol™ GTCC (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)1 Emollient 3.00 with this surprising melting cream that will erase signs of ageing
Span™ 20 (Sorbitan Laurate)1 Emulsifier 2.00 and leave the skin smooth and luminous. The formula has a natural
Part D
Water Deionised (Aqua) - 3.00
origin content of >95.00 % according to the ISO 16128-1 and ISO
Sodium Hydroxide 30% pH Adjuster 0.30 16128-2 standards.
Part E
Matrixyl 3000® FREE (Glycerin (and) Aqua (and) Butylene Glycol 3.00
(and) Carbomer (and) Coco-Glucoside (and) Palmitoyl Tripeptide- Anti-winkles active
1 (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7)2
Emulsion O/W
Part F
3.00
ReVitAlide™ (Aqua (and) Glycine Max (Soybean) oil (and)
Propanediol (and) Retinol (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Cetyl
Pale yellow opaque glossy block
Anti-ageing active
Palmitate (and) Sorbitan Stearate (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin
(and) Tocopherol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Citric Acid)2
Part G Melting Block, wetness, fresh, Spreadable

35.36779 Hydramoi Ecocert 3 Fragrance 0.20
Hydrating, slippery, amount of residue

Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Sederma 3: Iberchem 4: Thor
Please review our toxicological assessment to evaluate the appropriate handling and recommendation of use of your final product
36
Smoothing sheet mask SE0225D

Part A This sheet mask benefits from ReVitAlide™, the
Water Deionised (Aqua) - To 100 encapsulated retinol from Sederma, to counteract signs of
Potassium Sorbate Preservative 0.10
Part B
ageing, along with Optim Hyal® to boost hyaluronic acid
Glycerin Humectant 4.00 synthesis for a plumping effect. Amigum provides a silky
Microcare© Emollient DCP (Pentylene texture and maintains the cosmetic actives in suspension.
Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Antimicrobial 1.50
Decylene Glycol) 4 Very convenient with a light, quick drying texture, this sheet
Amigum (Sclerotium Gum)2 Thickener agent 0.80 mask contributes to a more sustainable planet, thanks to its
Part C energy saving cold process. The natural origin content of
Optim Hyal® (Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract Skin smoothing active 3.00
(and) Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose (and) the formula is >95.00 % according to the ISO 16128-1 and
Polyglucuronic Acid (and) Lecithin)1 ISO 16128-2 standards.
Part D
Sodium Hydroxide 30% pH Adjuster 0.05
Part E
ReVitAlide™ (Aqua (and) Glycine Max Anti-ageing active 3.00
(Soybean) oil (and) Propanediol (and) Emulsion O/W
Retinol (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and)
Cetyl Palmitate (and) Sorbitan Stearate
(and) Hydrogenated Lecithin (and)
Pale yellow opaque liquid gel
Tocopherol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and)
Citric Acid)1
Part F
The Blanc R127101 3 Fragrance 0.10 Watery, fresh, non sticky
Soft, wetness and pleasant

Suppliers: 1: Sederma 2: Alban Muller 3: Parf’ex 4: Thor
37
Unctuous BB cream SE0224L

Part A This unctuous hybrid make-up BB cream offers a perfect finish
Water Deionised (Aqua) - To 100
Potassium Sorbate Preservative 0.10
while actively repairing the skin in depth. It contains
Part B
Glycerin Humectant 2.00
ReVitAlide™, the encapsulated retinol by Sederma, a must-
Microcare© Emollient DCP (Pentylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl
Glycol (and) Decylene Glycol)5
Antimicrobial 1.50 have for any skin care product. The emulsifiers Span™ 60 and
Amigum (Sclerotium Gum)3
Part C
Thickener agent 0.80 Span™ 40 combined with Crodamol™ IPIS, White clay ER
Covarine Yellow WN 1798 (CI 77492 (and) Aqua (and)
Glycerin (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Sodium Citrate)6 Dye
0.77 and Crodamol™ GTCC, offer an unctuous dessert like texture
Covarine Red WN 3798 (CI 77491 (and) Aqua (and)
Dye
0.25 with a surprisingly light and soft powdery finish. With a high
Glycerin (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Sodium Citrate)6
Covarine White WN 9787 (CI 77891 (and) Aqua (and)
Dye
0.15 natural origin content (>95.00 %) according to the ISO 16128-1
Glycerin (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Sodium Citrate)6
Covarine Black WN 9798 (CI 77499 (and) Aqua (and) 0.06 and ISO 16128-2 standards, this is a be ACTIVEly committed
Glycerin (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Sodium Citrate)6 Dye
Part D
formulation. The nude colour allows a radiant and healthy
Talc 6
Crodamol™ GTCC (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)1
Excipient 15.00
7.00
complexion.
Emollient
Solaveil™ XT-300 (Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic / 5.00
Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Sunscreen
Stearic Acid (and) Alumina)1
White clay ER (Kaolin)3 Absorbent agent 5.00
Crodamol™ IPIS (Isopropyl Isostearate)1 Emollient 3.00 Emulsion O/W
Span™ 60 (Sorbitan Stearate)1 Emulsifier 1.80
Span™ 40 (Sorbitan Palmitate)1 Emulsifier 1.20
Part E
Lactic Acid pH adjuster 0.05 Beige opaque viscous glossy jelly
Part F
ReVitAlide™ (Aqua (and) Glycine Max (Soybean) Oil 3.00
(and) Propanediol (and) Retinol (and) Lauryl Glucoside
(and) Cetyl Palmitate (and) Sorbitan Stearate (and) Anti-ageing active Cohesive, fresh, non greasy
Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) Tocopherol (and) Caprylyl
Glycol (and) Citric Acid)2
Part G
THE BLANC R127101 4 Fragrance 0.10
Powdery, silky, smooth, non sticky
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Sederma 3: Alban Muller 4: Parf’ex 5: Thor 6: Sensient
38
2. 3.
6. Market
1. Technology Retinol benefits 4. Conclusion
Market and trends
5. Formulation

REVITALIDE ™
Market dynamic
Global cosmetic retinol market was evaluated at over USD 20 million in 2021 and is expected to hit USD 30 million
by 2027. Mintel registered more than 13 thousands products containing retinoids in the last 5 last years.
Top 5 vitamin A derivatives in finished products

2.200
2.000
1.800
1.600
Retinyl Palmitate is the
most used vitamin A
1.400
derivative in finished
1.200
products
1.000
800
600
400
200
0
2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
Retinyl Palmitate Retinol Beta-carotene Retinyl Acetate Retinyl Propionate

* Source: Mintel GNPD
40
REVITALIDE ™
Market dynamic
Retinyl palmitate is the most used vitamin A derivatives during these last 5 years in the beauty and personal care
industry. Products containing retinol represent however the fastest growing market.
Finished products that contain retinol

700
600
500
More than 2.4K products
400
in the last 5 last years in
300 the beauty and personal
care industry*
200
100
0
2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
Retinol
* Source: Mintel GNPD
41
REVITALIDE ™
Member of the « hero ingredients » club Recommended and
Along with Aloe vera, Vitamin C, Retinol, Hyaluronic acid, Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide…. highly trusted by
consumers
Women in the US claim:

47% “The inclusion of retinol in skincare products is important
in purchasing decisions”, NPD group
In the top #2 Retinol #3

2022 list of the most searched skin
trending skincare care ingredient across 37
ingredients according to countries in 2021 Retinol #9
#1.3 billion according to
million searches
views on Tiktok on google
(30/05/2022) (28/06/2022)
42
REVITALIDE ™
Different retinoids available on the market
Retinol is often used as a generic claim for products containing vitamin A, its derivatives or retinol-like ingredients.
Hydroxy-
Retinyl pinacolone
propionate retinoate
b-carotene
+
Bakuchiol
Retinyl
Retinol palmitate
43
REVITALIDE ™
Main benefits associated to retinol by consumers
Top online searches alongside retinol (Global Cosmetic Industry) Retinol is multifunctional!
Acne Ageing
Wrinkles
34.3K 7.2K 6.6K Scarring
20.1K
“Removes traces of
“Ideal for skin with photodamage, ageing, calms fatigue
imperfections, discolouration, acne skin, reduces lines, and
and congested pores, and suitable enhances the radiance
and tenderness of the “Helps improve skin
for normal, oily or combination skin” “Visibly reduces wrinkles,
complexion” texture, reduces scarring
evens tone, deeply
and enlarged pores”
moisturises for 24 hours”
44
REVITALIDE ™
YOUR SOLUTION: Sederma’s hero encapsulated retinol
Re Retinol
or PROTECTION
Vit A Vitamin A
L Lead TARGETING
I Inside
D Delivered
TOLERANCE
E Efficiently
EFFICACY
45
SEDERMA SAS
Tel +33 1 34 84 10 10
Fax +33 1 34 84 11 30
sederma@sederma.fr
www.sederma.com
Non-warranty: The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made. Suggestions for
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Smart science to improve lives™ 09/22 PCS MP 28282 09 V1 EN


SEDERMA-MP-ReVitAlide-EN

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SEDERMA-MP-ReVitAlide-EN

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ReVitAlide ™

Hero encapsulated retinol

Part of Croda International Plc © 2022

1. Technology Main menu 4. Conclusion

Smart science to improve lives™

Smart science to improve lives™

Animal source – preformed vitamin A

Plant source – provitamin A

Lycopene, lutein, and zeaxanthin, are non-provitamin A

Vitamin A (retinoic acid)

Promotes cell Increases Reduces the production of Speeds up

retinoid for the first time. Depending on skin type, Burning

It is recommended to use retinol progressively few times per

For formulators Due to its chemical structure, UV decomposition of retinol

Retinol must be stored at temperature inferior to -4°C

ReVitAlide™ structure under microscope

Hydrophilic outer face

(*): patent pending

4 different samples were observed under fluorescent light:

Non encapsulated Non encapsulated

Narrow Particle size is homogenous.

Brownian motion of ReVitAlide™

43,37 3,38 120 120

Retinol concentration (%)

Retinol concentration (%)

Air stability UV stability Thermal stability

ReVitAlide™ is more stable to air, UV and heat than free retinol.

Smart science to improve lives™

Franz diffusion cell is an in Donor compartment

A fluid with the capacity to

Retinol released (ug/cm 2)

300 Free retinol 60 Free retinol

Via Raman spectroscopy

Evaluation of the penetration

Image analysis process:

Compared to free retinol, ReVitAlide™ highly promotes skin penetration of retinol.

Global percentage of retinol penetration up to

ReVitAlide™ provides controlled release of 7,00%

epidermis, down to 100 µm of skin depth, 24 hours 4,00% Control

Smart science to improve lives™

• Application of a semi-occlusive patch containing 9 % ReVitAlide™ diluted in distilled water

Sensitisation: HRIPT (Human Repeated Insult Patch Test) method

• 9 repeated applications of semi-occlusive patches containing 9 % ReVitAlide™ diluted in distilled water

1 additional application for 2 days (challenge phase).

Sensitisation: HRIPT (Human Repeated Insult Patch Test) method

TOLERANCE : no adverse effect observed during the study

PRIMOS® 3D Skin Measuring

down to -21 %/T0

down to -34 %/T0

The anti-wrinkle activity of retinol within the ReVitAlide™ capsule

Smart science to improve lives™

ReVitAlide™ is a 95.5 %* natural derived form of encapsulated retinol. It is a stable, highly

… For end consumers … For formulators

• Good skin tolerance • Retinol easy to handle

Smart science to improve lives™

* Natural content: 60.03 %

• Allows a controlled and prolonged release of retinol over time.

• Increases cutaneous bioavailability of retinol.

• Helps preserve retinol content in formulations.

• Smoothes the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

• Prevents skin ageing.

Smart science to improve lives™

• Pale yellow opaque liquid • Do not freeze

« See more detail in the formulation guideline »