Welcome to the MARLIN-E3S1PROFORK-BYTT.

To use all new features the installation of the mainboard and the screen firmware
is needed.

Since the v008 release it is mandatory for dacai users to update once to the
creality release 28 cause the delivered firmware.zlib file needs to be installed in
order to support gcode preview.
With this also the sound toggle will be activated. So a fair deal to do it once.
This creality screen update is only needed once. After this one time upgrade you
can skip this on up or downgrade to any of my firmware versions.

I have uploaded the file here:

https://github.com/ThomasToka/MarlinFirmware/blob/Firmware-Binaries/Ender-
3S1_Pro_HWv24S1_301_SWV2.0.8.28F4_F401_FDM_LASER.zip

Update the screen once (do not forget the firmware.zlib in the root of your sd
card, it is important), then proceed with my firmware.

The Ender-3S1_Pro_HighSpeed_E3S1PROFORKBYTT_Pro_Plus_v020.zip file is unified for

both models and supports the Pro and Plus Touchscreen.

Instructions and Scipts for gcode preview generation are here:

https://github.com/ThomasToka/MarlinFirmware/wiki/Gcode-preview

The new md5sums_compare.ps1 script and the matching md5sums.txt are only to verify
the md5sums of the release files and usually are not
needed to download. The process is described in the wiki under:
https://github.com/ThomasToka/MarlinFirmware/wiki/Screen-firmware-md5sums
in case you cant upgrade your screen.

Please check which screen firmware version you have installed on the "About" site.
If you have a "UIxx" or "1.0.1 or lower" version you need to install the screen
firmware first!

If you are on Version "1.0.2" or heigher or on one of my last screen firmware

version it does not matter what you install first.

If you reinstall or upgrade (especially if you change from abl to ubl) it is highly
recommended to reset the printer directly after the installation.

The mainboard firmware is "backward" compatible and will start with the stock
screen firmware version 1.0.2 or higher.
Naturally it is then limited to the stock features.

You need two sd cards. One "normal" sdcard for the mainboard firmware that you
already should have. And a micro sd (small card)
for the screen firmware update.

Hint for sd and micro sd cards: If it simply does not work you maybe have a not
working/not always working sd/micro sd card. Some models (does not matter
if cheap or expensive ones) are weak or refuse to flash. Read further instructions
how to format your cards.

Mainboard firmware:

You can look in the wiki:

https://github.com/ThomasToka/MarlinFirmware/wiki/Installation-%E2%80%90-mainboard-
firmware
Or check these installation instructions:

- check your chip inside your printer or what is easier: look at the about page,
usually you will see F4 or F1 in the number FW/Ver field
- format your sd card as fat32 with 4096 unit size with max. 8GB partition size (i
use 2gb partitions for my flash cards.. format it over the drive tool
of your os first to 2GB)
- for F4 printer create a folder STM32F4_UPDATE on your SD card and put the
firmware bin file inside.
- for F1 printer it is sufficient to put the firmware bin file inside the root of
your SD card
- turn your printer off
- put the sd card in the cardreader of the printer
- turn your printer on
- the mainboard firmware installation is very fast and has no indicator.
- go to the "about" page of your printer. you should see "-byTT" attached to the
version number if it installed correctly

Touchscreen firmware:

You can look in the wiki:

https://github.com/ThomasToka/MarlinFirmware/wiki/Installation-%E2%80%90-screen-
firmware

Or check these installation instructions:

DWIN (DWIN_SET folder) and Dacai (private folder) displays are supported.

To update the touchscreen you need to have a micro sd card.

- format your micro sd card as fat32 with 4096 unit size with max. 8GB partition
size (i use 2gb partitions for my flash cards..)
- unpack the delivered zip file on the micro sd card
- you will have two folders in the root directory of your sd card. "DWIN_SET" and
"private", for simplicity we copy both versions on the sd card
- only one is needed depending on your display. DWIN or Dacai.. But they dont
interfere and the display picks the right one for the flash
- so you dont even need to know which display exactly you have
- turn your printer off
- take the display off
- unscrew the four screws at the back of the display
- take the display out of the frame
- put the micro sd card into the small cardreader slot on the back of the display
- connect the display with the cable
- important: during flashing please dont turn your printer off!
- turn your printer on
- the flash process will start on the display. "SD Card Process" is visible or
simply the "Version of the display".
- your screen will be upside down during the upgrade.
- you will see that the files are loaded.. it takes a while
- after flashing it depends on your display, some displays start directly, but
fail, later more.. read on..
- some display stay in the blue screen (no death screen like windows, the flashing
process is just blue..)
- some start directly even with the micro sd in the display. dont forget to take
this out. otherwise your printer will start flashing again on next boot.

- on dwin you will see "END !" at the top where "SD Card Process" is shown
- it shows the files flashed. with rc1 we have: 1 .cfg, 1 code file, 3 .bin,
1 .hzk, 16 .icl
- turn printer off, take the micro sd card out, start printer testwise, if it
works, turn printer off, close the display, you are ready.
- never pull the display while printer is on!

- on dacai you see blue background and red scrolling files that are loaded.. there
are a bunch so i wont list..
- every file is loaded and shows 100% if the file is uploaded correctly.
- at the end you will se "update finished"
- most dacais cant start directly, but the try to. so you will see the usual
"bricked creality" logo
- dont hasitate all went good
- turn printer off, take the micro sd card out, start printer testwise, if it
works, turn printer off, close the display, you are ready.
- if your dacai started correctly directly. turn printer off, take the micro sd
card out, start printer testwise, if it works, turn printer off, close the display,
you are ready.
- never pull the display while printer is on!

After installation:

- go to the about page and check the version numbers, you should see "-byTT" on
both firmware versions attached
- go to "adv.set"
- press "restore all set." to reset your printer settings
***NEW beginn***
- as of v002 the firmware has a new home offset calibration mode
- go to "Settings" -> "ADV.SET" -> "Offsets" -> "Home Offsets"

Option 1:
- press the X Home button and measure your distance from the nozzle middle to the
left bed edge.
- if your nozzle if past the bed your value is negative
- if your nozzle is over the bed your value is positive
- enter the measured value in the corresponding field (the default for this was
x=-2 on the pro and x=0 on the plus)
- example: you meassure 2mm then enter -2mm in the X field
- press the Y Home button and measure your distance from the nozzle middle to the
front bed edge.
- if your nozzle if past the bed your value is negative
- if your nozzle is over the bed your value is positive
- enter the measured value in the corresponding field (the default for this was
y=-2 on the pro and y=0 on the plus)
- example: you meassure 2mm then enter -2mm in the Y field

Option 2:
- press the X Home button
- if your nozzle is over the bed your value is positive, you can´t navigate with
the pads, you need ot measure how far the nozzle is into the bed.
- enter the shown value in the corresponding field as positive ex 2
- if your nozzle if past the bed your value is negative and you can navigate with
the pads till your nozzle middle is exactly over the left bed edge
- enter the shown value in the corresponding field as negative ex -2
- press the Y Home button
- if your nozzle is over the bed your value is positive, you can´t navigate with
the pads, you need ot measure how far the nozzle is into the bed.
- enter the shown value in the corresponding field as positive ex 2
- if your nozzle if past the bed your value is negative and you can navigate with
the pads till your nozzle middle is exactly over the front bed edge
- enter the shown value in the corresponding field as negative ex -2

Background: if you home your printer you either have a gap between nozzle and the
bed edge
(like on the pro for x and y. its a negative value then) or your nozzle is in the
bed so you
cant reach the last mm like for example with the last est. 5mm on the plus on the
y-axis
This offset compensates this so your nozzle middle will be exactly over the bed
edge on 0 position for x and y
Sidenote: x=0 and y=0 positions are not the endstop position necessarily
If you are unsure how to measure this come to the discord server.
The old defaults for this were:
Ender 3 S1 Pro x=-2 y-2
Ender 3 S1 Plus x=0 y=0
So you can enter those to have the state as before v002.
***NEW end***
- second you should do is autopid for hotend and bed
- go to "Adv. Set"
- go to "Temp. PID"
- go to "AutoPID Hotend"
- tap on the blue "300" preset for temp
- set your target temperature of your comming print, ex 215 for PLA
- set your cycles (3-20 are possible), 8 is common.
- start autopid
- new settings will be automatically saved.
- do the same for the bed under "AutoPID Hotbed"
... next steps same as for Hotend.
- now you can go on to leveling..
- settings -> device -> leveling
- your printer will home
- you maybe need to heat up your printer before tramming, do it on the autoleveling
page on the top.
- set your target hotend temperature of your comming print, ex 215 for PLA
- set your target bed temperature of your comming print, ex 60 for PLA
- wait till the temperature reaches your target temp. i even wait then 5 minutes on
the bed till it expands.

- also check your springs. they should be compressed nearly fully to have
consistant leveling results.
- compress them fully, then go 2-3 turns back so you have still some headroom for
adjustments.

- set your zoffset on "tramming point 1"

- go around all points and tram them (feeler gauge, paper method, do it as usual..)
- as of rc3 you can also do a CR-Touch measuring of the tramming points 1,6,7,8,9
- to do so tap on the "CR-Touch" Button and run a "Autorun"
- adjust your height of each point with the wheels.
- you can also go to one point and measure it. Just tap on the point. It will be
measured.

- after tramming, home your printer, go to autoleveling

- you maybe need to heat up your printer before autoleveling, you can do it also on
this site on the top.
- set your target hotend temperature of your comming print, ex 215 for PLA
- set your target bed temperature of your comming print, ex 60 for PLA
- wait till the temperature reaches your target temp. i even wait then 5 minutes on
the bed till it expands.
- start autoleveling
- the points values are shown one after another.
- when autoleveling finishes you are ready to print.
- maybe you have to "babystep" your first layer. but that is normal..

Slicer settings:

Don´t forget to set your slicer to the printarea values shown on the about site.

Ender 3 S1 Pro -> 235mm x 235mm

Ender 3 S1 Plus -> 310mm x 310mm

Check your purge lines and change them to a positive value:

Example old:

G1 X-2.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position

G1 X-2.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X-2.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X-2.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line

Example new:

G1 X5.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position

G1 X5.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X5.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X5.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line

Reference start gcodes:

Start G-Code

G28 ;Home
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
M420 S1 Z10; Abl
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X3.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X3.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X3.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X3.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

End G-Code

G91 ;Relative positionning

G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positionning

G1 X0 Y0 ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed

;M84 ;Disable all steppers. It is not possible to disable only X Y E cause of the
shared pins
; M84 is deactivated by default. As we can only deactivate all steppers there is a
chance that
; z crashes into the print when the steppers are deactivated on print end.
; this you should decide yourself!

If there are questions please join my discord server

https://discord.com/invite/Fh4jsUJWe6.

For installation help please use #installation-help

For discussions about the mainboard firmware please use #support
For discussions about the screen firmware please use #screen-help

A great help was the user FroggieFrog. Thanks for your great input. Here two monks
met and made this
firmware great again.

Also i want to thank all users that participated in the closed beta phase and gave
that much great input.

I hope you like it and everything works as it should.

You can donate to my github sponsors account:

https://github.com/sponsors/ThomasToka

or to my patreon account:

https://www.patreon.com/ThomasToka

or directly to my paypal account:

https://www.paypal.me/thomastoka

Thank you!

This firmware was proudly and with love made by Thomas Toka - core developer of
MARLIN-E3S1PROFORK-BYTT.