Ivy+Top

Ivy Top
yarnS design
Pattern by Enida Avdic October 25th 2023.
https://yarnsdesign.com
*Note:
Ivy Top is a project that uses the combination of the two of my favorite stitches, Knit stitch and Lace stitch. Knit
stitch will be used for front and back panels while the sleeves will be made using the Lace stitch. Apart from
different stitches we’ll use different types of yarn as well. The panels will be done with merino and for the sleeves
we’ll use mohair.
Construction: This top will be constructed out of 6 different pieces, which we’ll be assembling as we go.
First we’ll have 2 panels, front and back. The back panel will have 2 pieces, then we’ll have 2 sleeves and finally a
collar. The panels are entirely done by alternating 2 different stitches, which are YO SS BLO, and SS BLO, and
that's how we get, what I call a Knit Stitch. There will be some decreasing and increasing, mainly around the
sleeves and collar areas as well as the inside of the two back panels. For the sleeves we’ll use Lace stitch (see
special stitches category) and here as well we’ll do some increases to achieve the balloon sleeve effect.
Suggestions:
When you are doing SS a row, make sure you don’t pull on those stitches too much, so that when you do a YO SS
row, you’ll be able to insert your hook through without any difficulties.
If you are not mindful of these, your project might turn out shorter, or you might even have some discrepancies in
your gauge swatch. To fix this you can either crochet your SS slightly looser, or add some extra stitches when CH
for the front and back panel. After you are done with your panels, you can block them in length to recuperate those
few cm you might be short of.
Blocking is very important, so make sure you do it just as shown in the photos below, always block lengthwise.
Probably the most challenging part of this pattern will be YO SS over the edges, because if you want to make your
work even and without the holes, you will have to work out where to insert your hook. Since in most parts you will
work through the two loops together, I would suggest inserting your hook in one of the loops underneath, so you
won’t have those holes forming along the edge. So just after you have both end loops, find another loop below to
work through, to cover the possible hole forming.
After you finish the entire piece, you could even do an additional SS round using mohair yarn, around the collar
and across the back ribbon, closing it completely, this will give you a nicer finish and a straight ribbing, without any
pulling. *see photo below (13) (15) (16)
If you have a larger bust size I would recommend adding 10 more stitches to the length as well, to avoid the top
being too short for you.
With this said I would also recommend whenever you are adding stitches to the length, add a number that will be
easier for you to add up to the pattern, like 10, 20 etc.
If you are between the size go for the smaller size.
Customisation:
You can very easily customize the length of this vest just by adding or subtracting the number of stitches, so
instead of chaining 60, you’ll chain less, or more to have it shorter or longer. If you follow the pattern row numbers
the top will come out slightly cropped, so if you want it to be a bit longer, feel free to add more stitches. And for the
width you’ll add more rows when crocheting the first side of the front panel, and just mirror that on the other side
and the back panel as well. If you have broader shoulders you would add more repeat rows before starting the
collar, where you can as well add more rows for the overall width.
When it comes to the sleeves you can do them any length you prefer, you just have to stop adding rows once you
reach your desired length.
Ease: This top is designed to have slightly positive ease, around 1 cm, depending on your bust size, if you want
the vest to fit you even tighter, you can go down a size, or if you want a more comfortable look, go one size up.
Yarn choice: If you decide not to use the same yarn as I did, make sure you make a gauge swatch. You can
definitely use some other type of yarn, it does not have to be merino, but do match the weight of the yarn,
especially if you plan on using any other type for the sleeves as well. I would not recommend going for thicker yarn
than fine #2, otherwise you will end up with a piece too big.
The sizes you’ll have included are adult XXS-XS, S-M, L-XL
*I would love to see your finished work so when you post it make sure you tag my Instagram account
https://www.instagram.com/yarns_design/ and use #ivytop when posting your work.
Facebook profile https://www.facebook.com/yarnsdsgn
TikTok account https://www.tiktok.com/@yarns_design
YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/c/yarnSdesign
Materials we’ll use:
*Sport weight Yarn and Mohair yarn (optional double strand)
I’m using Hobbii’s Friends Extra Fine Merino and Friends Kids Silk
and here are some yarn substitutions https://yarnsub.com/yarns/hobbii/friends_extra_fine_merino
https://yarnsub.com/yarns/hobbii/friends_kid_silk
But you can use any type of yarn as long as you match the gauge
*Hooks: 4 mm and 3mm
*Scissors
*Stitch markers
*Buttons
Stitches you’ll need to be familiar with:

*the pattern is written in US stitch terminology
Chain
Slip Stitch
Yarn Over Slip Stitch, Back Loop Only
Single Crochet (Double Crochet)
Double Crochet (UK Treble crochet)
Treble Crochet (UK double treble)
Foundation double crochet
Foundation chain
Abbreviations we’ll be using:

CH - chain
SS - slip stitch
INC - increase
DEC - decrease
FO - fasten off
TCH - turning chain
BLO - back loop only
YO SS - yarn over slip stitch
STC - stitches
WS - wrong side
RS - right side
LS - lace stitch
FC - foundation chain
FDC - foundation double crochet
FP - front post
Special Stitches and Techniques:

Ribbing connection (1): https://www.tiktok.com/@yarns_design/video/7049439709105327366
*Yarn over slip stitch, back loop only (2) -

TikTok link - https://www.tiktok.com/@yarns_design/video/7061594932506545414
YouTube link - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldz98WxNeWk&t=2s
*YO SS end loops (3) - https://www.tiktok.com/@yarns_design/video/7195302721539312902
*Knit stitch (4) -

TikTok link - https://www.tiktok.com/@yarns_design/video/7063499267947678981
YouTube link - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USFCDgkF5iQ&t=153s
*YO SS, 2 end loops together (sleeves and collar) (5) -

https://www.tiktok.com/@yarns_design/video/7194768035872378117
Instagram link: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CoUFTFMqoGL/
*SS connection, sides (6) - https://www.tiktok.com/@yarns_design/video/7194895484157201670

Instagram link: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CoHaDWpIY6O/
* Decrease - when doing a DEC, YO SS DEC or SS DEC, work through 2 together, and do one stitch.
* Increase - when doing INC, YO SS INC or SS INC, place 2 in 1 loop.
*Foundation Double Crochet (foundation turning chain)- without chaining, turn your work, go into the
first stitch, grab your yarn and pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops, go back into the first post (first
loop of your stitch when you look from the side), yarn over and pull through one loop, yarn over pull through
both loops
Tutorial for FDC:
https://www.tiktok.com/@yarns_design/video/7089924982259600646?is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v1
*Foundation Chain (foundation single crochet): CH 2, *go back through the first CH, insert your hook
into the front loop and back loop as well, YO, pull through those 2 loops, YO pull through 1, YO, pull through
2, repeat everything from * until you have the desired amount of stitches.
Instagram Link: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CYolvfloN4Q/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
*Foundation Double Crochet INC - in 1 stitch you’ll place 1 FDC and 1 DC together.
*Foundation Double Crochet DEC - without chaining, turn your work, go into the first stitch, yarn over
and pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops, go back into the first post (first loop of your stitch when
you look from the side), yarn over and pull through one loop, don’t finish the FDC, instead go into the next
stitch, do DC and then to finish pull through all 4 loops
*Lace stitch: To understand the lace stitch better we can look at it as a set of stitches and rows. So for
example, one set of lace stitches will consist of 2 rows, and 9 stitches total. First row will have 1DC, skip 3, (1DC,
2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC)in 1, skip 3, 1DC, and this will form that little shell-like design. The second Row will have 1
DC, CH3, 1SC, CH3, 1DC. The first and last DC will always be worked into the first and last DC from the previous
row, we’ll call this our pillars. SC goes into the CH1, and everything in (......) is always worked in the SC. like this
we are always stacking our ‘shell stitches’ on top of each other.
And this right here will be our lace stitch, which we’ll repeat throughout the pattern, with some increases and
decreases of the stitch to either get a desirable fit or for the purpose of the design.
*Lace Stitch pattern:
*if you are just starting the row, the very first stitch will be FDC instead of DC.
*For gauge swatch FC 25, and start with a FDC from the very first CH.
Row 1: DC, [skip 3, (DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, DC) in 1, skip 3, DC] repeat from [..]
until the desired number of stitches. (RS)
Row 2: DC (in the DC stitch from the previous row) CH3, SC (in the CH1 from
the previous row), CH3, DC (WS)
Instagram link: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Chw1j5QqQE8/
*Lace Stitch increase
Row 1: DC, CH1, DC

Row 2: INC, CH1, INC
Row 3: DC, sk1, (1DC, 1TC, CH1, 1TC, 1DC)in1, sk1, DC
Row 4: DC, CH3, sk2, SC, CH3, sk2, DC
Measurements
These are the measurements of the unblocked piece, when blocking it you will stretch it lengthwise (as shown
in the photo (2, 11)), doing this you will gain 5-10 more cm in the length. The knit stitch is a very stretchy stitch
by nature, even more so combined with merino yarn, so width should not concern you since it will be able to
street up to 40 cm and then go back to its original size. The measurements shown are the unstretched width
measurements.
1 2 3 4 5 6
XXS-XS 38cm 32cm 26.5c 4.5cm 22cm 15.5cm
m
S-M 40 cm 35.5cm 27.5c 5.5cm 23cm 17.5cm
m
L-XL 44cm 37.5cm 29cm 6.5cm 25cm 19cm
2XL-3XL 48cm 39.5cm 31cm 7.5cm 27cm 20cm
4XL-5XL 52cm 43cm 33cm 8.5cm 29cm 22cm
Bust measurements:
These are the measurements shown of the top being unstretch to stretched slightly. The top can stretch in the
width even more, so depending on the fit you are looking for choose your size. If you want the top to be completely
adherent you can make a size smaller. I wouldn’t recommend making a size bigger, since as mentioned, the top
has a lot of stretch and fits quite comfortably even over the bust size recommended.
Bust
XXS-XS 70 cm - 80 cm
S-M 80 cm - 95 cm
L-XL 95 cm - 115 cm
2XL-3XL 115 cm - 135 cm
4XL-5XL 130 cm - 160 cm
Photo Gallery
Photo (1) Photo (2)

Photo (3) Photo (4)
Photo (5) Photo (6)

Photo (7) Photo (8)
Photo (9) Photo (10)

Photo (11) Front Panel blocked Photo (12) Front Panel unblocked
Photo (13) Photo (14) sleeve connection

Photo (15) Photo (16)
Pattern
Gauge
Knit Stitch, 4mm hook: 10x10 cm (4x4’’) : 33 rows, 24 stitches
Lace Stitch, 3 mm hook: 3 x 3 sets (25 stitches x 6 rows): 8.5 x 6 cm (3.3’’x 2.5’’); stretched: 9.5 x 7 cm (4.7’’x
3.1’’)
Right Side Wrong Side Right Side Wrong Side

Size XXS-XS
Yarn used: 180g Extra Fine Merino and 90g Kid Silk
Panels
Merino yarn
Hook size: 4mm
Front panel
CH 60
*crochet in the back bumps of your chain, start in the very first loop
Row 1: 60 YO SS BLO, TCH

Row 2: 59 SS BLO, INC, TCH = 61 STC
Row 3: 56 YO SS BLO, 5 SS BLO, TCH = 61 STC
Row 4: 59 SS BLO, 2INC TCH = 63 STC
Row 6: 61 SS BLO, 2INC, TCH = 65 STC
Row 7: 60 YO SS BLO, 5 SS BLO, TCH = 65 STC Mar Soler
Row 8: 63 SS BLO, 2INC, TCH = 67 STC marsolerhandmade
Bust: 80cm, Height: 157cm
*continue INC by 2, every SS row, until Row 17, 75 STC total
Row 18: 73 SS BLO, 2INC, CH 18, turn = 95 STC

Row 19: 90 YO SS BLO, 5 SS BLO, TCH = 95 STC *work into the back bumps of your CH, start in the very first loop, and then
continue working into the BL of your previous row
Row 20: 95 SS BLO, TCH

*Continue repeating rows 20 and 21 until row 35
Row 36: 70SS, TCH, *you’ll have 25 STC unworked

Row 38: 68SS, DEC, TCH,
Row 42: 68SS, TCH,

*Repeat row 42 and 43 you reach row 75

Row 76: 67SS, INC, TCH,
Row 80: 70SS, CH 25
*work into the back bumps of your CH, start in the very first loop, and then continue working into the BL of your previous row
Row 82: 95SS BLO, TCH

Row 98: 73 SS, 2 DEC, TCH = 75 STC *you should have 18 STC unworked
Row 100: 71 SS, 2 DEC, TCH = 73 STC

Continue DEC until row 113, 61 STC
Row 114: 59 SS, DEC, TCH = 60 STC

Leave 8m long tail and FO
Back Panel
First piece
CH 60


Row 36: 87 SS BLO, 2 DEC, TCH *you’ll have 4 STC unworked

Row 38: 83 SS BLO, 2 DEC, TCH *you’ll have 2 STC unworked in every next SS row
Row 40: 79 SS BLO, 2 DEC, TCH
Continue DEC every SS row by 2 and leaving 2 last STC unworked, until you reach row 57, 49 STC total, FO
Second piece
CH 49

Row 2: 47 SS BLO, 2 INC, CH 2, turn = 53 STC
Row 3: 48 YO SS BLO, 5 SS BLO, TCH
Continue INC by 2 and chaining 2 every SS row, until row 20, 89 STC total


Repeat rows 23 and 24 until row 39
Row 40: 73 SS, 2 DEC, TCH = 75 STC *you’ll have 18 STC unworked


Ribbing
CH 4

Repeat until you have 49 rows total, turn and YO SS across the entire piece, working through the end loops, you
will have 49 STC, connect the ribbing to the top, SS across working through the FL of the top and BL of the
ribbing, see the video above (1)
Repeat everything for the second side, this time though we will make holes for the buttons, and to that we’ll SS1,
CH2, sk2, SS1, on some SS rows, those will be rows, 4, 14, 24, 34, 44.
These are the same Rows you will sew on your buttons to, make sure they are corresponding correctly, since on
one side you have more rows than the other.
The Ribbing with the buttons will go attached to the right side top down, and the ribbing with the holes to the left
side attaching it from the bottom up.
Connecting the panels
*SS front panel to the back using those long tales you left earlier. Place the panels with RS facing each other, WS
out, and then SS along each side. *leave a long tail so you can YO SS around the armholes later.
You’ll be SSing going through FLs on the side closer to you and BLs on the side away from you, you will have 60
SS total. *see the video above (6)
*To join the panels at the shoulders, we will first YO SS along the edges of the shoulders, to make joining neater.
With the WS of the panels facing you, join yarn at the corner of each shoulder section and YO SS across, going
through the end loop of each row. You’ll be working through 2 end loops together so you should have 8 stitches
for each shoulder, 1 per 2 rows. FO. *see the video above (3) (remember that here we will work through 2 loops
instead of one as shown in the video)
*Join the front panel to the back at the shoulders by SS the shoulders together in the same way you did the sides.
*YO SS around the armholes and the collar with the WS facing you:
*Around the collar you’ll insert your hook through the end loops of your rows (CH spaces).
For each row you’ll have one loop at the end, that will be the turning CH we did every time that a row was
completed.
You will do DEC all the end loops of our rows, just as we did on the shoulders, so crochet 2 loops together.
You won’t be decreasing any actual stitches, like those (2) stitches you were leaving when INC and DEC on the
sides for back panels as well as those 25 stc left unworked and 25 CH on the front panel.
So when you start YO SS, essentially, what you will be doing is:
5YO SS (for the ribbing and connection), YO SS DEC, 2 YO SS x 10, YO SS DEC, 4 YO SS, then you’ll continue
YO SS over the connection on the shoulders and down the front, placing 1 YO SS per stitch. Once you get to the
end rows, you’ll start DEC again, 1 YO SS per 2 loops. And then around again to get to the second side of the
back panel, when you’ll do the same, only this time you start with 4 YO SS, 1 YO SS DEC, (2 YO SS, 1 YO SS
DEC) x10, 5 YO SS, turn
Do one more round of SS BLO. FO
*Around the armholes, use the long tails you left after connecting the sides and WS out, you’ll work through the
BL of your outside rows on one side, 18 loops there and 18 CH spaces on the other side, and half of the armhole
you’ll work through the end loops just as you did on the collar, 2 loops together, you should have total of 56 STC.
SS to connect, FO. *see the video above (3)
Sleeves
Mohair yarn
Hook size: 3mm
FC 41
Turn after each row
Start crocheting from the very first stitch
Row 1: (FDC, CH1, DC) in1, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1, sk 3, (1DC, CH1, 1DC) in 1] x 5 = 53 STC
Row 2: FDC INC, CH1, DC INC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, DC INC, CH1, DC INC) x 5 = 65 STC
Row 3: FDC, sk 1, (1DC, 1TC, CH1, 1TC, 1DC) in 1, sk 1, 1DC, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1, sk 3,
1DC, sk 1, (1DC, 1TC, CH1, 1TC, 1DC) in 1, sk 1, 1DC] x 5 = 77 STC
Row 4: FDC, CH3, sk 2, SC1, CH3, sk 2, 1DC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC, CH3, sk 2, SC1, CH3, sk2,
1DC) x 5 = 89 STC
Row 5: (FDC CH1, DC) in 1, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1, sk3, 1 DC] x 11, CH1, DC in 1 = 93 STC
Row 6: FDC INC, CH1, DC INC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC) x 10, CH 3, skip 3, 1SC, CH3, skip 3, DC INC,
CH1, DC INC = 97 STC
Row 7: FDC, sk 1, (1DC, 1TC, CH1, 1TC, 1DC) in 1, sk 1, 1DC, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1 sk3, 1
DC] x 11, sk 1, (1DC, 1TC, CH1, 1TC, 1DC) in 1, sk 1, 1DC = 101 STC
Row 8: FDC, CH3, sk 2, SC1, CH3, sk 2, 1DC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC) x 11, CH3, sk 2, SC1, CH3, sk
2, 1DC,= 105 STC
Row 9: (FDC CH1, DC) in 1, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1, sk3, 1 DC] x 13, CH1, DC in 1 = 109 STC
Row 10: FDC INC, CH1, DC INC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC) x 12, CH 3, skip 3, 1SC, CH3, skip 3, DC
INC, CH1, DC INC = 113 STC
2, 1DC,= 121 STC
Row 13: (FDC CH1, DC) in 1, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1 sk3, 1 DC] x 15, CH1, DC in 1 = 125 STC
Row 14: FDC INC, CH1, DC INC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC) x 14, CH 3, skip 3, 1SC, CH3, skip 3, DC
INC, CH1, DC INC = 129 STC
2, 1DC,= 137 STC
Row 17: FDC, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1 sk3, 1 DC] x 17 = 137 STC
Row 18: FDC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC) x 17 = 137 STC
CH 18, SS to connect to the other side, turn and start crocheting in the round without turning anymore, you’ll
crochet over the chain first, start from the very first stitch, SS to connect every row.
Row 19: FDC, [sk 2, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1 sk2, 1 DC] x 3, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1 sk3,
1 DC] x 16, sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1 sk3 = 160 STC
Row 20: FDC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC) x 19, CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC = 160 STC
Row 21: FDC, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1 sk3, 1 DC] x 19, sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1 sk3
= 160 STC
Continue crocheting in a round until you reach your desired length (your arm length) , it should be a ¾ sleeve
length.
Take your merino yarn and switch back to 4mm hook, SC around the armhole on the sleeve, you will need to
match the number of stitches on the top piece armhole, which is 56. *see photos (8) and (9)
So to SC you will be placing 2 STC into the CH3 space on the bottom of the armhole and 1 STC per 1 DC, you
will start from the mid underarm working your way up, RS out, make sure that by the time you reach the FC on the
top, you have 23 STC, then across the FC do 10 STC, and on the other side 23 more STC. SS to connect.
Take your top piece, WS out, start attaching the sleeve. Match the mid sleeve to the seam and start SS, going
through the FL of the top piece and through both loops on the armhole SC row. SS all the way around.
Repeat everything for the second sleeve.
Make 2 FC which will be used as sleeve ties, they should be around 1.5m long, which you’ll feed through each DC
connection as shown on the video above.
Size S-M
Panels
Merino yarn
Hook size: 4mm
Front panel
CH 60

Inneke Njoto
*continue INC by 2, every SS row, until Row 19, 77 STC total lullulalla.crafts
Bust: 83cm, Height: 160cm


Row 46: 70SS, TCH,


Row 86: 72SS, CH 28



Back Panel
First piece
CH 60




Second piece
CH 50



Row 44: 75 SS BLO, 2 DEC, TCH = 77 STC

Continue DEC every SS row by 2, until you reach row 60

Row 63: 55 YO SS BLO, 5 SS BLO,
Ribbing
The Ribbing with the buttons will go attached to the right side top down, and the ribbing with the holes to the left side attaching
it from the bottom up.
CH 4

Repeat until you have 49 rows total, turn and YO SS across the entire piece, working through the end loops, do
one YOSS in the CH loop as well, you will have 50 STC. WS facing you, connect the ribbing to the top, SS across
working through the FL of the top and BL of the ribbing, FO. see the video above (1)
CH2, sk2, SS1, on some SS rows, those will be rows, 6, 16, 26, 36, 46.
These are the same Rows you will sew on your buttons to, make sure they are corresponding correctly, since on
one side you have more rows than the other.
*SS front panel to the back using those long tails you left earlier. Place the panels with RS facing each other, WS
*To join the panels at the shoulders, we will first YO SS along the edges of the shoulders to make the joining
neater. With the WS of the panels facing you, join yarn at the corner of each shoulder section and YO SS across,
going through the end loop of each row. You’ll be working through 2 end loops together so you should have 10
stitches for each shoulder, 1 per 2 rows. FO. *see the video above (3) (remember that here we will work through 2
loops instead of one as shown in the video)
completed.
You will do DEC all the end loops of our rows, just as we did on the shoulders, so crochet 2 loops together.
sides for back panels as well as those 28 stc left unworked and 28CH on the front panel.
5YO SS (for the ribbing and connection), (YO SS DEC, 2 YO SS) x 11, YO SS DEC, 4 YO SS, then you’ll continue
YO SS over the connection on the shoulders and down the front, placing 1 YO SS per stitch. Once you get to the
end rows, you’ll start DEC again, 1 YO SS per 2 loops. And then around again to get to the second side of the
back panel, when you’ll do the same, only this time you start with 4 YO SS, 1 YO SS DEC, (2 YO SS, 1 YO SS
DEC) x11, 5 YO SS, turn
Sleeves
Mohair yarn
Hook size: 3mm
FC 41
Turn after each row
Row 2: FDC INC, CH1, sk1, DC INC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, DC INC, CH1, sk1, DC INC) x 5 = 65 STC
1DC) x 5 = 89 STC
Row 5: (FDC, CH1, DC) in 1, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1, sk3, 1 DC] x 11, CH1, DC in 1 = 93 STC
Row 6: FDC INC, CH1, sk1, DC INC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC) x 10, CH 3, skip 3, 1SC, CH3, skip 3, DC
INC, CH1, sk1, DC INC = 97 STC
Row 7: FDC, sk 1, (1DC, 1TC, CH1, 1TC, 1DC) in 1, sk 1, 1DC, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1, sk3, 1
2, 1DC= 105 STC
Row 10: FDC INC, CH1, sk1, DC INC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC) x 12, CH 3, skip 3, 1SC, CH3, skip 3,
DC INC, CH1, sk1, DC INC = 113 STC
2, 1DC= 121 STC
Row 14: FDC INC, CH1, sk1, DC INC, [CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC) x 14, CH 3, skip 3, 1SC, CH3, skip 3,
2, 1DC= 137 STC
Row 17: FDC, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1, sk3, 1 DC] x 17 = 137 STC
Row 19: FDC, [sk 2, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1, sk2, 1 DC] x 4, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1,
sk3, 1 DC] x 16, sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1, sk3 = 168 STC
Row 20: FDC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC) x 20, CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3 = 168 STC
Row 21: FDC, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1, sk3, 1 DC] x 20, sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1,
sk3 = 168 STC
Row 22: FDC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC) x 20, CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3 = 168 STC
length.
top, you have 25 STC, then across the FC do 10 STC, and on the other side 25 more STC. SS to connect.
Make 2 FC, 1.5 m each, which will be used as sleeve ties, they should be around 1.5m long, which you’ll feed
through each DC connection as shown on the video above.
Size L-XL
Panels
Merino yarn
Hook size: 4mm
Front panel
CH 74

Row 8: 78 SS BLO, 2INC, TCH = 81 STC Mahira Duran
cickadesign
*continue INC by 2, every SS row, until Row 21, 93 STC total Bust:105cm, height:167cm



Row 50: 86SS, TCH,


Row 90: 88SS, CH 30



Leave 12m (m or cm?) long tail and FO
Back Panel
First piece
CH 74



Second piece
CH 66





Ribbing
The Ribbing with the buttons will go attached to the right side top down, and the ribbing with the holes to the left side attaching
it from the bottom up.
CH 4

Repeat until you have 65 rows total, turn and YO SS across the entire piece, working through the end loops, do
one YOSS in the CH loop as well, you will have 66 STC, connect the ribbing to the top, SS across working through
the FL of the top and BL of the ribbing, FO. *see the video above (1)
CH2, sk2, SS1, on some SS rows, those will be rows, 4, 16, 28, 40, 52, 64.
These are the same Rows you will sew on your buttons to, make sure they are corresponding correctly.
*SS front panel to the back using those long tales you left earlier. Place the panels with RS facing each other, WS
*To join the panels at the shoulders, we will first YO SS along the edges of the shoulders, to make joining neater.
With the WS of the panels facing you, join yarn at the corner of each shoulder section and YO SS across, going
through the end loop of each row. You’ll be working through 2 end loops together so you should have 11 stitches
for each shoulder, 1 per 2 rows. FO. *see the video above (3) (remember that here we will work through 2 loops instead of
one as shown in the video)
completed.
sides for back panels as well as those 30 stc left unworked and 30CH on the front panel.
5 YO SS (for the ribbing and connection) YO SS DEC, (2 YO SS, 1 YOSS DEC) x 11, 4 YO SS, then you’ll
continue YO SS over the connection on the shoulders and down the front, placing 1 YO SS per stitch. Once you
get to the end rows, you’ll start DEC again, 1 YO SS per 2 loops. And then around again to get to the second side
of the back panel, when you’ll do the same, only this time you start with 4 YO SS, 1 YO SS DEC, (2 YO SS, 1 YO
SS DEC) x11, 5 YO SS, turn
Sleeves
Mohair yarn
Hook size: 3mm
FC 41
Turn after each row
Row 2: FDC INC, CH1, sk1, DC INC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, DC INC, CH1, sk 1, DC INC) x 5 = 65 STC
1DC) x 5 = 89 STC
Row 6: FDC INC, CH1, sk1, DC INC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC) x 10, CH 3, skip 3, 1SC, CH3, skip 3, DC
INC, CH1, sk1, DC INC = 97 STC
2, 1DC,= 105 STC
Row 10: FDC INC, CH1, sk1, DC INC, (CH 3, sk 3, 1SC, CH3, sk 3, 1DC) x 12, CH 3, skip 3, 1SC, CH3, skip 3,
2, 1DC,= 121 STC
Repeat this increase (from row 9-12) 2 more times on the two sides only, until you get to row 20
Row 21: FDC, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1 sk3, 1 DC] x 19 = 153 STC
Row 23: FDC, [sk 2, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1, sk2, 1 DC] x 3, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1 sk3,
1 DC] x 21, sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1 sk3 = 176 STC
Row 25: FDC, [sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1 sk3, 1 DC] x 21, sk 3, (1DC, 2TC, CH1, 2TC, 1DC) in 1 sk3
= 176 STC
length. Finish on the repeat of row 26.
top, you have 28 STC, then across the FC do 10 STC (4 tog), and on the other side 28 more STC. SS to connect.
Make 2 FC which will be used as sleeve ties, they should be around 1.5m long, which you’ll feed through each DC
connection as shown on the video above.

Ivy+Top

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Ivy+Top

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Ivy Top

Pattern by Enida Avdic October 25th 2023.

If you are between the size go for the smaller size.

Stitches you’ll need to be familiar with:

Abbreviations we’ll be using:

Special Stitches and Techniques:

*Yarn over slip stitch, back loop only (2) -

*YO SS end loops (3) - https://www.tiktok.com/@yarns_design/video/7195302721539312902

*Knit stitch (4) -

*YO SS, 2 end loops together (sleeves and collar) (5) -

*SS connection, sides (6) - https://www.tiktok.com/@yarns_design/video/7194895484157201670

Instagram link: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Chw1j5QqQE8/

*Lace Stitch increase

Row 1: DC, CH1, DC

Photo (1) Photo (2)

Photo (5) Photo (6)

Photo (9) Photo (10)

Photo (13) Photo (14) sleeve connection

Right Side Wrong Side Right Side Wrong Side

Row 1: 60 YO SS BLO, TCH

Row 18: 73 SS BLO, 2INC, CH 18, turn = 95 STC

Row 20: 95 SS BLO, TCH

*Continue repeating rows 20 and 21 until row 35

Row 36: 70SS, TCH, *you’ll have 25 STC unworked

Row 42: 68SS, TCH,

*Repeat row 42 and 43 you reach row 75

Row 82: 95SS BLO, TCH

*Continue repeating rows 82 and 83 until row 97

Row 100: 71 SS, 2 DEC, TCH = 73 STC

Continue DEC until row 113, 61 STC

Row 114: 59 SS, DEC, TCH = 60 STC

Leave 8m long tail and FO

Row 1: 60 YO SS BLO, TCH

*continue INC by 2, every SS row, until Row 17, 75 STC total

Row 18: 73 SS BLO, 2INC, CH 18, turn = 95 STC

*Continue repeating rows 20 and 21 until row 35

Row 36: 87 SS BLO, 2 DEC, TCH *you’ll have 4 STC unworked

Row 1: 49 YO SS BLO, TCH

Row 21: 84 YO SS BLO, 5 SS BLO, TCH

Row 23: 90 YO SS BLO, 5 SS BLO, TCH

Repeat rows 23 and 24 until row 39

Row 42: 71 SS, 2 DEC, TCH = 73 STC

Continue DEC until row 55, 61 STC

Row 56: 59 SS, DEC, TCH = 60 STC

Leave 8m long tail and FO

Row 1: 4 YO SS BLO, TCH

Connecting the panels

Repeat everything for the second sleeve.

Row 1: 60 YO SS BLO, TCH

Row 22: 100 SS BLO, TCH

*Continue repeating rows 22 and 23 until row 39

Row 40: 72SS, TCH, *you’ll have 28 STC unworked

Row 46: 70SS, TCH,

*Repeat row 46 and 47 you reach row 81

Row 82: 69SS, INC, TCH,

Row 88: 100 SS BLO, TCH

*Continue repeating rows 88 and 89 until row 105

Row 108: 73 SS, 2 DEC, TCH = 75 STC

Continue DEC until row 123, 61 STC

Row 124: 59 SS, DEC, TCH = 60 STC

Leave 8m long tail and FO

Row 1: 60 YO SS BLO, TCH

*continue INC by 2, every SS row, until Row 19, 77 STC total

Row 20: 75 SS BLO, 2INC, CH 21, turn = 100 STC