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ON
THE
PO L I T I C S
OF
U G L I NE S S
EDITED BY
SARA RODRIGUES
AND
EL A PRZYBYLO
On the Politics of Ugliness
Sara Rodrigues • Ela Przybylo
Editors
On the Politics
of Ugliness
Editors
Sara Rodrigues Ela Przybylo
Toronto, ON, Canada Gender, Sexuality, and Women’s Studies
Simon Fraser University
Vancouver, BC, Canada
Cover credit: “Thank You For The Syphilis,” mixed media and collage on mylar. Sarah Allen Eagen, artist,
http://saraheagen.com/.
Cover design by Tom Howey
This Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by the registered company Springer International
Publishing AG part of Springer Nature.
The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland
Contents
2 Ugliness 31
Nina Athanassoglou-Kallmyer
v
vi Contents
14 Writing Ugly 291
Melody Ellis
17 The Ugly, the Uninvited, and the Unseen in the Work of Sia
and Emma Sulkowicz 367
Karina Eileraas Karakuş
Index 427
Editors and Contributors
ix
x Editors and Contributors
Melody Ellis is a writer and academic based in Melbourne. She completed her
undergraduate studies in fine art at Sydney College of the Arts in 2001, and
in 2014 was awarded a PhD in creative writing from RMIT. Her interdisci-
plinary writing practice explores a preoccupation with desire, place, subjectiv-
ity and psychoanalysis. Ellis’s writing is informed by her practice as an
exhibiting artist and sometimes curator. She recently co-authored a chapter
with Associate Professor Francesca Rendle-Short for The Materiality of Love:
Essays on Affection and Cultural Practice (Routledge 2017).
Breanne Fahs is Professor of Women and Gender Studies at Arizona State
University, where she specializes in studying women’s sexuality, critical
embodiment studies, radical feminism, and political activism. She has pub-
lished widely in feminist, social science and humanities journals and has
authored or edited six books: Performing Sex (SUNY Press, 2011), The Moral
Panics of Sexuality (Palgrave, 2013), Valerie Solanas (Feminist Press, 2014),
Out for Blood (SUNY Press, 2016), Transforming Contagion (Rutgers University
Press, 2018), and Firebrand Feminism (University of Washington Press, 2018).
She is the director of the Feminist Research on Gender and Sexuality Group
at Arizona State University, and she also works as a clinical psychologist in
private practice where she specializes in sexuality, couples work, and trauma
recovery.
Yetta Howard is the author of Ugly Differences: Queer Female Sexuality in the
Underground (University of Illinois Press, 2018) and is editing a photography
and essay collection, Rated RX.: Sheree Rose with and after Bob Flanagan (under
contract with Ohio State University Press) in collaboration with ONE
National Gay and Lesbian Archives. Howard specializes in gender and sexual-
ity studies, queer studies, and feminist theories of race and ethnicity.
Emphasizing visual and auditory texts, her research and teaching focuses on
twentieth- and twenty-first-century American cultural studies with an invest-
ment in underground, experimental and unpopular cultural production.
Some of Howard’s work has also appeared in Social Text; Sounding Out!; TSQ:
Transgender Studies Quarterly; The Journal of Popular Culture; Women &
Performance: A Journal of Feminist Theory; and she guest edited a special issue
of Journal of Lesbian Studies on the theme “Under Pressure.”
Esther Hutfless is a philosopher and psychoanalyst in Vienna, Austria. She
teaches at the Department of Philosophy at the University of Vienna and the
Vienna Psychoanalytic Academy. Her main teaching and research areas
include: Deconstruction, Psychoanalysis, Feminist Philosophy, Ontology,
Écriture féminine, and Queer Theory. With Barbara Zach, she edited the first
xii Editors and Contributors
currently working on projects about the work of artists Laura Aguilar, Tee
Corinne, and Tatyana Fazlalizadeh.
Bernadette Wegenstein is a semiotician, filmmaker, and leading figure in the
emergent field of media theory. In books like Getting Under the Skin: Body and
Media Theory, and The Cosmetic Gaze: Body Modification and the Construction
of Beauty, she shows how the most intimate experiences of the human body are
intertwined with the technologies we use to communicate, represent the world,
and envision and diagnose our illnesses. From analyses of literature, the visual
arts, the history of cinema, and the onset of digital technology, Wegenstein’s
work explores how the ways we inhabit our bodies are inextricably bound to
how we desire them to be, and how this desire is thoroughly cosmetic, that is,
structured by the logic of enhancement and improvement. She works and
teaches on Italian cinema, cinematic representations of the Holocaust, and
documentary and experimental film. She is also a documentary filmmaker
with three features, Made Over in America, See You Soon Again and The Good
Breast distributed, another one in post-production, and a fifth one in pre-
production. The Center for Advanced Media Studies, which she directs at
Johns Hopkins University, supports an integrated agenda of research and
media arts production in collaboration with the Baltimore Museum of Art.
Stephanie K. Wheeler is Assistant Professor in the Department of Writing and
Rhetoric at the University of Central Florida. Wheeler’s academic interests
include Cultural Rhetorics, Rhetoric and Writing, Disability Studies,
Indigenous Rhetorics, and Holocaust Studies. She is particularly interested in
the intersections of these areas, specifically the ways that disability and able-
ism are deployed as colonial tools to marginalize and disenfranchise unwanted
bodies.
List of Figures
xvii
xviii List of Figures
E. Przybylo (*)
Gender, Sexuality, and Women’s Studies, Simon Fraser University,
Vancouver, BC, Canada
S. Rodrigues
Toronto, ON, Canada
as with ability, bodies are prone to change, to alter, and to move in and out of
categories of ugliness, such that upholding investments in unsightliness ulti-
mately functions against even the most privileged. In the words of Heather
Laine Talley, “ugliness matters for us all, but it particularly matters for those
with bodies defined as ugly.”3 Bodies are punished when they are deemed
“ugly,” and this treatment is justified on account of their reduction to being
an ugly thing, and thus, as Noël Carroll argues, “beneath or outside ethics.”4
On the Politics of Ugliness is a collection of engagements with ugliness as a
politically invested site, one that flows in and out of dialogue with gender,
ability, race, class, age, sexuality, health, and body size. The editors and authors
of this collection refuse to accept that ugliness is solely the property of a body,
space, or thing, and argue that ugliness is also a function leveraged to uphold
notions of worth and entitlement. In identifying and locating ugliness as a
political category, On the Politics of Ugliness strives to imagine new ways of
seeing ugliness and of being and being seen as ugly by fighting against its cat-
egorization and use as a pejorative denomination of visual injustice.
Ugliness appears everywhere in our everyday lives and in scholarship on the
body, beauty, culture, appearance, and representation. Yet, it is infrequently
engaged with as a direct object of study. As this Introduction will explore,
while mentions of ugliness have been abundant in philosophy, aesthetic and
literary theory, feminist theory, critical race studies, art history, and critical
disability studies, and while ugliness so clearly informs these many fields, it
has been elaborated on in fairly limited terms. In philosophy and art history,
ugliness is usually explored in terms of aesthetics, tending to erase from view
its complex politics and its effects on atypical bodies. In such work, ugliness is
also largely dependent on conceptualizations of beauty, while its social and
relational aspects are obscured from view. Indeed, ugliness seems to emerge as
a property or attribute of places and bodies rather than as a process that relies
on an unjust distribution of value and power in relation to the workings of
gender, ability, race, class, beauty norms, body size, health, sexuality, and age.
This collection seeks to centralize ugliness as an object of study, exploring how
ugliness operates in the perpetuation and justification of social, political, and
visual injustice, and to consider what drives our social and academic fears of
ugliness.
In this chapter, we open up this study of ugliness by exploring what it
means and what is at stake when someone or something is marked with and
by “ugliness.” We do this by considering contemporary deployments of ugli-
ness, with a focus on Western socio-cultural contexts, as well as by providing
a review of theoretical engagements with ugliness. We position ugliness politi-
cally, rather than purely aesthetically, tracing its intersections with discourses,
Introduction: On the Politics of Ugliness 3
increased in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries as new legisla-
tion in the US, intensified police forces, and civic regulation were informed
by new measures and standards of national efficiency and order.18 The impacts
of industrialization on the environment created national desires for keeping
spaces “beautiful” in a Fordist context that mechanized bodies in the cultiva-
tion of a productive, industrialized workforce. Together, this context of desired
national cohesion, Fordism, and aspirations to beauty informed the institu-
tionalization of racist, ableist, settler colonial, and classist mechanisms such as
ugly laws, eugenics, immigration laws, and City Beautiful movements in the
late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. They also informed the creation
of institutional spaces for housing those deemed ugly including the prison,
asylum, hospital, and reservation system. As Unger writes, “ugliness in this era
acts as a way to identify aesthetically those who present a social or cultural
danger to the nation.”19 Further, this “ugly panic” extends to eradicating not
only “ugly” bodies but also “ugly” things and spaces as ugliness is understood
as “violat[ing] the aesthetic norm of an efficient and streamlined nation.”20
Architecture, landscape, and city design thus strived and continues to strive
to “exclude people deemed ugly” by reducing their access to public spaces.21
Siebers argues that this “[p]ublic aversion to disability” in particular extends
to a “wider symbolism that includes nonhuman bodies, buildings, and many
other structures.”22 People with disabilities are confronted by inaccessibility
on a daily basis, which forecloses their entry to many public and private
spaces. Moreover, undesirable members of societies are often sequestered into
spaces that are ugly by virtue of design or neglect or both, such as prisons.
Kenneth E. Hartman, a man imprisoned for life, describes the “ghastly ugli-
ness” of the prison. He writes: “Repulsive prisons are everywhere, blotting out
whole sections of the rural landscape of contemporary America, or, inside the
cities, compressed into vertical slabs of blank walls fenestrated only with mir-
rors. These eyesores reek of the industrialization of incarceration, of the huge
business of prison. […] There is a disposable quality. […] The stink of the
abattoir hides behind impassive, silent walls and inside cloned boxes squat-
ting inside miles of chain-link fence.”23 Nonetheless, within the prison,
Hartman recognizes beauty, but it is a function of community and comrad-
ery; it is not of design or place. The beauty—and ugliness—of prison are, for
Hartman, embedded in the prison’s treatment of individuals.24 Ugly laws and
spatial sanctions of ugliness demonstrate hostility towards people with dis-
abilities and incarcerated people that is informed by a conviction that ugli-
ness is both attached to certain bodies and in need of eradication. This
explains the aspiration for clean, manicured spaces and cityscapes that speak
Introduction: On the Politics of Ugliness 7
your ugliness.” Leduc’s apt observation demonstrates that ugliness, like beauty,
is harnessed against women in misogynist ways and is attached to the intrinsic
worth and value a woman holds in the world—her currency under patriar-
chy.32 As is well known, feminists have routinely been accused of being both
inherently “ugly” and have been attacked for our supposed refusal to engage in
beauty practices. The resulting “caricature of the ugly feminist” demonstrates
that ugliness is as much about appearance as it is about behaviors that depart
from the social norms acceptable in and to capitalist patriarchy.33 Most recently
and infamously, Hillary Clinton, in the final debate of the 2016 US presiden-
tial election, was dubbed by Donald Trump a “nasty woman” (a label that
shortly thereafter took over the feminist corners of the Internet resulting, for
instance, in the production of “nasty woman” t-shirts), demonstrating the
ways in which women in power easily border on various analogues for ugli-
ness, nastiness included. The production of ugliness, like the production of
beauty, is thus dependent on disciplinary codes of appearance and conduct. If
the production of femininity is, drawing on Sandra Lee Bartky’s seminal work,
a series of “disciplinary practices” that relate to a woman’s “body’s sizes and
contours, its appetite, posture, gestures and general comportment in space and
the appearance of each of its visible parts” then to be conceived of as an “ugly”
woman (or an “ugly” feminist) is to breach these codes of behavior, attention,
and appearance—to either disregard them, mimic them improperly, or to be
in excess of them.34 Entire regulatory mechanisms emerge to render “ugly”
female faces and bodies less ugly and thus acceptable for consumption. Beauty
apps such as Meitu and FaceTune enable uses to filter and retouch photos—
smoothing skin, slimming faces, and Westernizing features—before sharing
them on social media. Their precursors were makeover television series like
The Swan, which “transformed” “self-identified ugly ducklings [via] domains
of cultural/biomedical surveillance currently available,” all in the name of “lib-
eration, empowerment, and healthy personal fulfillment.”35 Such interven-
tions also have a racialized quality, since, as Eugenia Kaw demonstrates,
surgeries such as “double-eyelid” surgery are prevalent among Asian-American
women who want to pursue a more “Caucasian-looking eye” as the emblem of
beauty within white supremacist frameworks of appearance.36
Sociologist Heather Laine Talley, in Saving Face: Disfigurement and the
Politics of Appearance, argues that, rather than trying to be beautiful, countless
procedures are aimed at making one “not ugly,” since women and girls fear
being ugly above and beyond much else.37 Echoing Kathy Davis’s work, Talley
suggests that the desire to be “not ugly” is “at the most basic level, the desire
to live outside of the stigma of ugliness.”38 The practices of being “not ugly”
are, Talley suggests, ableist and rooted in a fear of bodily variance and a deep
desire to appear, simply, normal. In exploring the workings of this, Talley
looks to what she identifies as “facial variance” including cases in which a
Introduction: On the Politics of Ugliness 9
person does not have a face or has an irregular face, which becomes a marker
of a disability unlike nearly any other and is widely understood, due to appear-
ance discrimination, as social death.39 Lucy Grealy, in Autobiography of a Face,
demonstrates the great extent to which the face counts in whether a person is
understood as “ugly.” She writes, “I was my face; I was ugliness.”40 To have an
irregular face, to be “ugly” in this way, is to be deemed worthy of disposal and/
or awaiting social death, thereby demonstrating the intertwined nature of the
structures of ugliness and disability as well as their lethal effects.
People with disabilities are routinely rendered ugly and undesirable by
able-bodied people, demonstrating a deep-seated commitment to able-bodied
ideology (i.e., ableism) and normative embodiments. Rosemarie Garland-
Thomson has explored the ways in which appearance politics play a central
function in the social making of disability and the ways in which people with
disabilities are discriminated against.41 Both aging adults and people with
disabilities, for instance, undergo a process of desexualization through the
operation of ugliness and being rendered “undesirable.” Russell Shuttleworth,
along with other critical disability studies theorists, argues that the violent
process of desexualization, that is, of being barred from being sexual, rests not
only on the assumption that people with disabilities are less desiring and
capable of sex but also that they are less attractive and thus less entitled to
sex.42 Hatred of aging and disability are informed by white ideals of youth,
health, able-bodiedness, and normative beauty, all of which are underwritten
by a politics of ugliness. Women are especially taxed with the expectation that
they should not be ugly and that if they are ugly, they are unworthy of sex.
Hatred of ugliness is further fueled by deep-seated racism that often mani-
fests itself as visual injustice. Yeidy Rivero discusses how the Colombian ver-
sion of Ugly Betty was, much like its ABC counterpart, “informed by
intertwined Eurocentric, patriarchal, racial, Western/Christianized ideologies”
and driven by racialized notions of ugliness.43 The histories that equate racial-
ized bodies with ugliness and ugliness with racialization are so complex that it
would be fair to argue that ugliness is a concept thoroughly reliant on racism
for meaning. In the words of sociologist Maxine Leeds Craig, “racism is prac-
ticed as a visual hatred.”44 For example, in The Racial Contract, Charles W. Mills
discusses how projects of conquest from the Enlightenment onwards were
founded on a political dislike of black features and a visual injustice that
favored the appearance of whiteness above all else.45 Thus “the white body
[was made] the somatic norm, so that in early racist theories one finds not
only moral but aesthetic judgments, with beautiful and fair faces pitted against
ugly and dark races.”46 Slaveholder Thomas Jefferson celebrated the rights of
white men in 1781 by drawing them as distinct from black men on the basis
of their appearance, writing of the “superior beauty” of the white race and the
10 E. Przybylo and S. Rodrigues
ugliness of the “colored race.”47 From hair texture to skin tone, facial shape to
body height and size, whiteness has been deeply conflated with beauty and
goodness, and racialization with ugliness and moral failing. Because women
are often valued for their beauty and punished for its lack, challenging the
conflation of racialization with ugliness has been a central political concern for
women and feminists of color. Leeds Craig argues that in the face of white
supremacist notions of appearance according to which black women were por-
trayed as “ugly and sexually available,” “black women had to contest their
wholesale definition as non-beauties.”48 Black feminist interventions into this
narrative of beauty and ugliness are infinite and include the work of bell hooks,
Toni Morrison’s literary canon, and reclamations of beauty ranging from
“Black is Beautiful” in the 1960s to the #BlackGirlMagic movement launched
by CaShawn Thompson and in circulation in the last several years on social
media.49 Anti-racist approaches to beauty have often emphasized and embraced
“beauty” in contexts of the racist conflation of ugliness with bodies of color,
focusing on honing an oppositional consciousness grounded in the body and
oriented against white supremacist and colonial norms of appearance. Further,
a black “politics of respectability” has been modeled in part on a distancing
from notions of “ugly” appearance and behavior, emphasizing instead white
bourgeois norms and habits as a strategy to combat racism.50
Bodies that more successfully perform beauty norms and reject “ugly”
behaviors and presentations are more likely to secure or retain elevated socio-
economic status.51 For example, Rivero discussed how Ugly Betty relied on the
protagonist climbing the social ladder and finding heterosexual coupledom
through a process of beautification and rejection of her assigned ugliness.52
Ugliness, like beauty, in this way is a class-based attribute. Further, in her
memoir on working-class lesbian identity, Two or Three Things I Know for Sure,
Dorothy Allison writes of the ways ugliness is used against working-class
women who “get worn down” with work and patriarchal oppression.53 She
writes that “we were hard and ugly and trying to be proud of it. The poor are
plain, virtuous if humble and hardworking, but mostly ugly. Almost always
ugly.”54 Rivero and Allison as well as Theda Skocpol and Vanessa Williamson
provide a commentary on the ways in which those who occupy socially disen-
franchised and overworked bodies will remain framed as ugly by mainstream
thought and politics unless they secure the resources to partake in bodily
upkeep along normative lines.55 Because femininity in particular requires intri-
cate upkeep and economic investment, ugliness can also be used against women
who do not partake in the “fashion-beauty complex”56 or “beauty myth,”57
honing instead a “plain” or “unaltered” aesthetic in order to reject normative
body standards as they are tied to race, ability, class, age, sexuality, health, and
body size. This pressure is felt especially by transgender women who are
Introduction: On the Politics of Ugliness 11
"Hän tulee! Hän tulee!" Syntyi kauhea tungos. Jokainen tahtoi tulla
lähemmä.
"Ja jospa tietäisit, sisar Borcsa", selitti Matias Toth, "että hänellä
on kotona vielä kolmesataa kuusiseitsemättä vaimoa".
"En."
"Mutta mitä sanovat siihen isä Bruno, isä Litkei?" urahti ylituomari
puolin vihaisena puolin nauraen. "Hehän ovat teistä tehneet miltei
pyhimyksen."
"Minäkö?"
"Minne?"
"Tuon varkaan! No, sen minä löylytän, jos hänet vain missä näen."
4.
Papit vietiin, ja Kecskemetin kansankapinahanke nukahti, ja läheni
se merkittävä päivä, jolloin senaattorien piti lahjoineen lähteä
Budaan — Turkin keisarin luo. Puvut olivat valmiit ja kolmeksi
viimeiseksi päiväksi ne pantiin kaupungintalolle yleisön
tarkastettavaksi. Siitä syntyi oikea juhlakulkue. Heitukka Pintyö
vartioi suurta pöytää, jolle aarteet oli levitetty houkuttelemaan.
Gyurka vanhus siinä seisoi kerubina, mutta lieskamiekan asemesta
hän heilutti kädessään pähkinäpuusauvaa. Niin ihanasti kaikki
välkkyi, että hänkin näytti sen tartuttamalta. Sellaiset verkot ovat
naiskasvoille suuri jälkiapu. Tavallista sievempiä neitoja hän rohkaisi
toisinaan, sekin oli hänen virkaansa. "Koetelkaapa vain sitä,
kyyhkyseni, tuolla sivuhuoneessa." Ja kuka olisi voinut vastustaa?
Oliko sydäntä, joka ei olisi rajummin sykkinyt, katsetta, joka ei olisi
kiehtoutunut? Kaikki "tuhannen ja yhden yön" aarteet eivät olleet
mitään näiden rinnalla. Kuinka moni tyttö hiipikään arkana kuin
metsäkauris kaikkien näiden ihanuuksien ympärillä ja antoi
katseensa hempeänä niillä harhailla, mutta pian avautuivat silmät
suuriksi ja alkoivat loistaa kuin kaksi liekehtivää kynttilää, jäsenet
alkoivat hiljaa vavahdella, ohimoissa poltti ja takoi rajusti, ja juuri
samaan aikaan sitten alkoi heitukka puhua. "Koetelkaa toki,
kyyhkyseni!" Ja he koettelivat ja olisivat sitten mielellään kuolleet!
Mutta voi sitä, joka tuon loiston kerran oli ylleen pukenut! Ihania
nauhoja pujotettiin heidän kiharoihinsa, vartalo nyöritettiin solakaksi,
heidän ylleen pantiin kummasti ommellut paidat, taivaansiniset
silkkipuvut, joihin oli kirjailtu hopeisia puolikuita, ja lisäksi jalkoihin
karmiininpunaiset pikkusaappaat ja huikaisevat koristukset. "Kas
noin, enkeliseni, tarkastele nyt itseäsi!" Heidän eteensä pantiin
kuvastin, ja tyttäret alkoivat riemusta remuella; he näkivät
keijukaisunta. Ja heidän siinä itseään kummeksiessaan, kaipuun
polttamin sydämin, aaltoilevin povin ja turhamaisuuden nälän
kalvamina, astui kerubi jälleen esiin: "Nyt riittää jo, riisuudu — tai jos
sinun tekee mielesi, niin käy aina noissa pukimissa".
Oli kuin jokainen sana olisi ollut pilvi, joka kuuroina valui tytön
kasvoille, niin murheelliseksi kävi lapsi. Tämäkin villinä kasvanut
oravainen karkoitettiin pureksimasta. Hän kääntyi pois ja pyyhkäisi
kädellään silmistä kumpuavat kyyneleet.
"Mikä nimesi?"
"Czinna."
"Minä lähden."