Ballerina Doll Sewing Pattern

By Dolls And Daydreams

This is part of the Dress Up Dolly Series.

All my clothes & shoes patterns will fit your Ballerina ☺

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 Ballerina Doll Sewing Pattern
By Dolls And Daydreams
Fabric choices.

• For the body and face I use pre washed 100% cotton. One fabric for the skin tone – face, arms,
and legs and a different fabric for the body.
• For hair and eyes I use wool felt. If the doll is intended for very young children I recommend an
anti pill felt (such as wool felt) as that dolly will be getting a lot of Love & Kisses!!!

Supplies

Pre washed cotton fabric (1/2yard

total)
Felt
Paper pattern
Scissors/ Rotary cutter
Tailors chalk/ pencil
Safe cutting surface.
Polly Fill (stuffing)
Embroidery thread

1) Using your pattern, cut out your pre washed and

ironed fabric and your choice of colored felt. A ¼ inch
seam allowance has already been added. I like to use a
rotary cutter especially on the large curves of the head.
2) With the right side of the fabric facing inwards pin and sew the hair bun together. Make sure to
leave the bottom open. Finishing off at both ends with a backstitch or hand knot.

3) Clip the curved edges of the hair bun making sure not to go through your stitches. This ensures
when you turn it the right way that the curves pop. I use a chop stick or the end of a paint brush
to help turn the bun.
4) Lightly stuff your bun, making sure that you leave a 1 inch gap free from stuffing near the bottom
opening.

5) Flatten the bottom of the bun over, with the hair color (felt – bun front) facing up.

6) Fold the bottom corner of the bun over so that its corner point is approximately in the center of
the bun. Repeat with top corner so they meet in the middle and pin.
7) Take your face pattern and place your fabric face over it. Position your felt hair/bangs using your
template as a guide, pin and sew around the face opening (1/8 inch from the edge) into place.

8) Mark with a pin where your hair parting will be.

9) Sew a line of stitches from the peak of the fringe/bangs up to the pin. Pull each of the thread ends
through to the back and tie off in a knot.

10) Again using your face pattern as a guide under your fabric, place your felt eyes and cheeks on and
pin. Hand sew into place. Pull each of the thread ends through to the back and tie off in a knot.
11) Of course you can embroider the eyes and cheeks at this point instead using a padded satin stitch
(which makes it safe for kiddies under 3). You can also paint your face on at this time (which
makes it safe for kiddies under 3). Fabric paints and pens are easy to come by, please follow
manufactures instructions as each is different. Simply trace as before and paint in your face.
For my full video tutorial on how to paint faces please visit:
http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com/2010/11/how‐to‐paint‐dolls‐face‐free‐tutorial.html

12) I added 1 white dot with embroidery thread to the upper right hand corner of each eye.

13) With your face over your pattern piece, using tailors pen/pencil or chalk, mark where your mouth
and nose will be and embroider it in. I like to use the stem stitch. Go to my blog for more info on
embroidering doll faces.
http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com/2011/04/embroidery-techniques-for-doll-and.html
14) With the right side of the fabric facing inwards pin the arms together. Repeat with the legs.
15) Sew the arms together making sure to leave the tops open for stuffing, finishing off at both ends
with a backstitch or hand knot (keeps your seams from unraveling). Repeat with the legs.

16) Clip the curved edges making sure not to go through your stitches. This ensures when you turn
them the right way that the curves pop.

17) Stuff your arms and legs to within ¾ - 1 inch of the opening. The gap allows the arms to fall
nicely to the dolly’s side and not look like a scarecrow :) I use an old paintbrush as a stuffing
tool. The bristles hold on to the stuffing and help you get into all the ends and corners.

18) Pin the ends of the arm and legs and sew them shut. If desired, snip off any excess edges.
 19) Pin the bottom of the back of the head to the top of the body
with the right sides of fabric facing each other and sew together.

20) Repeat with the face and the front body panel.
 21) Serge (or use a tight zigzag stitch) around the edges where the 3.5” – 4” opening for the stuffing
will be. This helps stop fraying of your material when you turn your doll and stuff it. Make sure
you go beyond the white arrows, where the opening will be.

If your opening is going to be on the right side of the body like mine, zigzag on the right of the
front body panel and on the left of the back body panel.

Then when you make a sandwich with both of your body pieces (see section 27 below) your zigzag sides
will line up. If in doubt, zigzag around both entire body panels.
22) Place your bun directly in the center above your dolls head. Use your template as a guide.

23) Flip the bun down making sure it overlaps the hair line and sticks out over the head by at least a
¼ inch. Pin in place to keep it from wiggling around.
 24) Position your arms so that the edges are ¼ of an inch over the side of your body. Don’t allow the
arms to go above the collar neckline, otherwise they won’t look like they are coming out of your
mini body outfit. Pop a pin in them to keep them from wiggling around.

25) Position the legs just before the body begins to curve so that the edges are ¼ of an inch over the side
of your body and use 2 pins to keep them from shifting.
26) Now fold the arms over the legs and use a pin to keep them from moving.

27) Place the back of the body right side

facing inwards over the front creating a sandwich.
Make sure that both body pieces are right side
facing inwards and match up at the neck seam.

28) Sew all the way around the outside of

your doll sandwich making sure to leave a 3.5” –
4” opening on one of the body sides after the arm
and before the leg.

29) Remember to take your time carefully

pinning your bun before sewing. When sewing
over the bun let the machine go at its own rate
don’t push or force the material through. Take
your time you’re almost there ☺

30) If you wish you can double seam along

the arms, bun and
legs 1/8” from the
edge for added
strength from too
much dolly love!
31) Clip the curved edges of the head, neck and bottom of the body making sure not to go through
your stitches. This ensures when you turn your dolly the right way that the curves pop.

32) Pop your hand through the hole in the side of your dolly and remove any loose pins you used to
secure the legs/arms/ears. Then pull the legs and arms gently out, slowly pulling your entire doll
the right way.

33) Now let’s get stuffing!! This is the fun part as you get to see your doll for the first time! Hi
dolly!!
34) I like to make sure I firmly stuff my doll (an old paint brush really helps), this allows them to sit
up. However it is purely personal taste, some people like squidgy soft and floppy dolls.

35) When stuffing the head, especially the neck area you need to keep stuffing so as to get rid of the
wrinkles and creases. And to help dolly keep her head up! The amount of love your dolly is
going to get over time means more stuffing than you think!

36) Once stuffed, pin the opening in the body closed and sew up using the ladder stitch to close. You
can find a Tutorial on my blog. http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com/2010/11/how-to-close-
softies-and-dolls-ladder.html
 37) Now let’s embellish!

If you haven’t already added your felt nose & eyes now is the time. You can add flowers or bows
to the ears, and bits of trim! Please remember, anything that is detachable is not recommended
on dolls for children under the age of 3 as they pose a choking hazard.

If you intend to sell your dolls (see copyright info below) why not make a tag with your name and
logo on them and sew it directly to the back of your doll’s body. You can find my fabric label
tutorial on my Blog for how to make them from things you already have in your house!

http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com/2010/09/fabric‐label‐tutorial‐made‐from‐things.html

If you’ve enjoyed this pattern and your new dolly, please pop back to my happy little Daydream
shop to leave some feedback, I always return the favor!

For more helpful dolly making tutorials visit my blog:

http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com/p/tutorials_03.html
Ballet Slippers

Fabric choice – Wool Felt

Supplies

Felt (scraps)
Paper patterns
Scissors/ Rotary cutter
Safe cutting surface.
¼ inch (6mm) width Ribbon (1.5 yards/
1.4meters)
Fray Check

Please Remember, anything that is detachable such as these small shoes are not recommended on dolls
for children under the age of 3 as they pose a choking hazard.

1) Cut out your felt shoe pattern, a 1/8 of an inch seam allowance has already added. I use freezer
paper to cut out fiddly felt pieces, go to my blog for a full how to tutorial:
http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com/2011/02/how-to-use-freezer-paper-to-cut-out.html

2) Pin the corresponding front of the shoe onto the back of the shoe.
3) Sew an 1/8 inch seam around the outer edge making sure to back stitch at the ends. Clip the
curved edges of the shoe making sure not to go through your stitches. This ensures when you
turn them the right way that the curves pop. Turn them the right way. I use a chop stick or the
end of a paint brush to help turn the slippers.

4) Cute 4 strips of ¼ inch width ribbon 13.5 inches (34 cm) long and seal the ends with Fray Check
(or a lighter will work too but please be careful and don’t burn your fingers!)
5) Turn your show over so that the seam runs down the back and is facing you. Pin at a 45 degree
angle a strip of ribbon on each side of the shoe.
6) With very small stitches, hand sew them into place with your knots on the inside of the shoe.

7) Now lace them up on your

dancing dolly!
Tutu

Fabric choice – Tulle

Supplies

Tulle (3 yards/2.7 meters)

Scissors/ Rotary cutter
Safe cutting surface.
¼ width elastic (10.5 inches)
Safety pin
Ruler

1) Using your ruler and a rotary cutter (or scissors), cut two strips of tulle that are 3 yards (2.7
meters) long and 6 inches (15 cm) wide. Don’t worry if you cut your width a bit wobbly it will
be almost imposable to see on the finished tutu.

2) Place one on top of the other and fold them over so that they are now 3 inches in width. Pin them
together close to the folded.
3) When pinning the tulle, you want to remember that you are creating a channel for your elastic to
go through.

4) Now sew all 4 layers together. I used a

shorter stitch length (2 on my machine). And
backstitch at both ends. I also used white thread
so you could see it, but normally I would use one
that would match the tulle.

Make sure you sew your seam allowance slightly

larger than the standard ¼ inch as you want your
elastic to fit through the channel you create.

5) Take a safety pin and attach it to the end

of your elastic (which you pre cut to
10.5inches/25.5cm long). Don’t worry that it is
white, unless you are using black or very dark
colored tulle you will not see it once the skirt it
completed.
6) Thread your safety pin through the channel in your tulle, pushing the fabric onto your elastic as
you go.

7) Once all of your tulle is on the elastic, pin one end over the other so that they over lap by ¾ of an
inch.
8) Hand stitch this into place.
9) Push the tulle from both sides over the elastic ends and rearrange the skirt so that the ruffles are
evenly spaced out and not all bunched in one place.
10) Tada! You have made your dolly a beautiful tutu!

Now let’s dance!

I’ll have more easy sew doll accessories and patterns coming soon!
Check out the cute easy clothes and shoe patterns that will work with these dolls!

http://www.etsy.com/shop/DollsAndDaydreams?section_id=7813035

Blog
http://dollsanddaydreams.blogspot.com
Etsy
http://DollsAndDaydreams.etsy.com
Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/dollsanddaydreams
 Copyright info and terms of use.

I allow for all those that purchase my sewing patterns to sell

items made from them in limited quantities however, they
are not to be mass produced.

It is illegal under US copyright law, to sell or distribute

(electronically e.g. via e-mail, hardcopy e.g. printed) any of
Dolls And Daydreams Patterns.

Copyright Dolls And Daydreams 2011 All Rights Reserved.

Selling Dolls And Daydreams Dolls

Proof of Purchase
Please keep a copy of your paypal receipt as proof of purchase.

Craft Fairs
Feel free to sell at craft fairs, church fates, fundraisers etc but please note on your tags that it is made from
a Dolls And Daydreams Pattern. No more than 10 items made from any combination of my patterns are
allowed.

Online – e.g. Etsy, Art Fire etc

You can sell online but you must give DollsAndDaydreams credit for the pattern with a direct link to the
pattern you used (found in my etsy store). You may only have up to 10 total items made from any
combination of my patterns listed at any given time. Each doll/stuffed toy, and items made from one of
my patterns (or altered patterns) must have a direct link to the corresponding pattern used whenever
mentioned (be it for sale on etsy or promoted/discussed on your blog).

The link must be for the currently for sale item address not your etsy order transaction address e.g. Dress
Up Doll sewing Pattern designed by DollsAndDaydreams http://www.etsy.com/listing/67761002/dress-
up-doll-and-doll-clothes-pdf

Mass producing is strictly not allowed!

Do not use items made from my patterns (or your interpretation of my designs) to create banners, avatars,
business cards, postcards etc.

Alterations to the patterns for sale.

Feel free to make alterations to the patterns you use, however, you must still note on your tags (or via
links online) that it is made from a Dolls And Daydreams Pattern.

Personal Use
Please make as many items for charity, gifts and for your little ones as you wish!