Raising

Course name: Wet processing II

Course Code: WPE 311

Course Teacher:
Tabassum Ferdous Jenny
Lecturer, Department of Wet Process Engineering
Bangladesh University of Textiles.
What is Raising

• Raising is a mechanical finishing process that raises the surface fibers of a fabric
by means of passage over rapidly revolving cylinders covered with metal points or
teasel burrs.

• Raising is the term used to describe the creation of a pile surface on a fabric.

• Fibers are deliberately pulled out of a yarn to give the fabric a hairy or fuzzy
appearance and a soft surface texture.

• It is a permanent finish may be done either in wet stage (wool) or dry stage (for
cotton).
What is Raising

• Effect of Raising: Loft handle.

-Woven fabric after raising: Flannel

-Knit fabric after raising: Fleece

• Raising is particularly suitable for- cotton, wool, polyester/viscose blended fabric,

acrylic etc.
Objectives of Raising

• To obtain a lofty handle effect

• To obtain fleecy appearance

• To create pile on surface

• To produce heavier surface

• To produce warm clothe as well as soft one

• To make the fabric more comfortable.

Types of Raising:

1. Napping:

-Using wire covered rolls to dig out individual fiber ends to the surface.

-Comparatively higher pile is produced than sueding.

-Napped fabrics have a softer hand and provide better insulation than the same
materials unnapped because they can entrap more air.

-For example fleece, high-pile fur-like effects, flannels and bed blanket finishes are
produced by napping.
Types of Raising: (cont..)

2. Sueding:

-Using abrasive covered rolls (sandpaper, emery cloths etc.) to produce shorter pile
surface .

-When a very mild effect of raising is required, sueding is done on fabric.

-The difference between sueding and napping is that in napping, the fibers ends are
plucked out of the fabric, whereas in sueding they are cut.

-In the textile industry, the process of sueding is also commonly known as "sanding" or
"emerizing".
Types of Raising m/c:
Types of Napper:

1. Teasel raising m/c

2. Cord wire raising m/c

i) Single acting raising m/c

ii) Double acting raising m/c

iii) Knit raising m/c

Types of Sueder:

1. Single Cylinder Sueder

2. Multi Cylinder Sueder

Types of Raising m/c (cont..)

Types of Napper:

1. Teasel raising m/c:

• Teasels are obtained from thistle plant by boiling seed pod of

thistle. Teasels are 1.5 to 1.75 inch in length.

• These teasels are nailed to wooden board or iron sleet and

then placed the board or the sleet on a drum.

• The fabric is drawn over them. Fabric and cylinder rotates in

the same direction but surface speed of cylinder & fabric is
different.

• Low production than cord wire raising machine. Fig: Teasel, dried
thistle flower head
2. Cord wire raising m/c:

• It’s a modern raising m/c.

• Use hooked or bent steel wire to tease the fibers from the surface of the fabric.

• The most important factor is the relationship between the point & the speed of the
fabric. The fabric runs in warp direction over the m/c, only weft threads are at right
angles to the rotating raising wires and so only the weft threads take part in the
raising process.

• Wire nappers, known as planetary nappers, are the most commonly used machine.

• 24-36 small, pile wire clad rolls (worker rolls) mounted on the periphery of a large main
cylinder.

• Cleaning rolls or brushes are present below the main cylinder.

2. Cord wire raising m/c: (cont..)

General parts of napping m/c:

1. Main cylinder

2. Rollers equipped with hooks.

3. Fabric rolls.

4. Nib cleaning

5. Fabric
2. i) Single acting raising m/c:

• It has 20-24 pile worker rolls in the

cylinder.

• Main cylinder rotates in the same direction

as the flow of the cloth.

• The pile worker rolls rotate in a direction

opposite to main cylinder.

• Thus due to the friction between pile

worker rolls and fabric surface, raising is
accomplished.
2. ii) Double acting raising m/c:

• It is the most commonly used machine in

industry in which main cylinder carries 24, 30
or 36 rolls.

• Two types of rollers are available-one is pile

worker roller and the other is counter pile
roller.

• Every pile worker roll is wound with wire

angled in the same direction as the rotation
of the cylinder.

• The counter pile roll is wound with wire

having points angled in the opposite
direction.
2. ii) Double acting raising m/c:

• The counter pile rolls dig into the yarn to pull out fibers while pile roll felt or tucks
the fiber ends into the base of the fabric producing a product that retains better
appearance after laundering.

• The double acting raiser develops a dense, tangled nap which is very desirable on
many fabrics.
2. iii) Knit raising m/c:

• This m/c is designed to be used almost

exclusively in the knit industry.

• M/c can handle tubular fabrics as well as

open width knits.

• Main difference with other napper m/c is

that the cylinder rotates on its own axis
in a direction opposite to the flow of the
cloth.
2. iii) Knit raising m/c:

• Half of the worker rolls are covered with straight wire called traveler wire and the
other half are covered with hooked wire whose points face the opposite direction of
main cylinder rotation.

• These hooked wires look like pile wire, but they act like counter pile wire because of the
direction of rotation of the main cylinder.

• Both sets of worker rolls rotate on their own axis in a direction opposite of the cylinder
rotation.

• 14-24 worker rolls are mounted on the main cylinder.

• The hooked wire roll does the napping and the traveler wire rolls speed is adjusted to
control the tension of the fabric on the cylinder.
Types of sueder:

1) Single Cylinder Sueder :

• The single-cylinder sueder has one abrasive covered metallic roll and one rubber
covered pressure roll.

• To keep the abrasive covered cylinder from expanding from the heat generated from
friction, water is circulated through the cylinder interior to keep it cool.

• The pressure roll presses the fabric against the abrasive cylinder.

• The abrasion of the fibers on the surface of the fabric takes place in the nip between
the pressure roll and the abrasive cylinder.
Types of sueder:

2) Multi-Cylinder Sueders:

• It usually has five rotating cylinders. Each independently driven and they can be rotated
clockwise or counter clockwise.

• Ahead and behind each cylinder, there are adjustable idle rolls which control the fabric
pressure against the abrasive cylinder.

• Entry and exit drive rolls transport and control the fabric tension as it progresses
through the machine.

• This machine is suited for fabrics containing knots, slubs or thick selvedges.
Factors which affect the degree of napping:
1) The speed of the worker rolls.
2) the type of wire
3) the angled direction of the wire

Factors which affect the degree of sueding:

1) Grit of Sandpaper
2) Speed of the fabric
3) Speed of the sanding roll
4) Pressure of the sandpaper on the cloth
5) Number and direction of passes through process.
Any Question?
Thank You