Republic of the Philippines

UNIVERSITY OF RIZAL SYSTEM

Antipolo City
A.Y. 2019 – 2020

COLLEGE OF ENGINEERING

Assignment/Individual Research No. 03

Work Method Statement

In partial fulfillment of the requirements in

CE 16: Timber Design

Presented by:

Alyssa Mariz De Asis Almanon

Student No.: 1011500043

Submitted to:

George Prejula Palada, RCE

Instructor

23 September 2019
Work Method Statement of Timber Framing

I. Introduction

According to Wikipedia, framing, in construction, is the fitting together of pieces

to give a structure support and shape. Framing materials are usually wood, engineered wood,
or structural steel. Timber framing construction is a traditional method of building with heavy
timbers.

Timber framing and Post-and-Beam Construction are commonly confused but

they actually differs from each other. The major difference, is the type of joinery that is
used. A timber framed building uses traditional joinery, like mortise and tenon, dovetails, and
tongue and fork to form the connections. The mortise and tenon joint is used to make the
majority of timber framed connections and has been the basis for timber framed projects since
the very beginning.

II. Purpose / Scope of Work

Timber frame construction is not a system of building, although there are a number of
well-researched systems that use timber frame as a basis.

Timber frame construction uses timber studs and rails, together with a structural sheathing
board, and its purpose is to form a structural frame that transmits all vertical and horizontal
loads to the foundations.

III. Standard References

(AS) 1684 Residential Timber Framed Construction

(NZS) 3604 Timber-framed buildings

(ASTM) D, Standard Specification and Guidelines for Establishing Design Properties of Round
Wood Dowels (Pegs) for Use in Wood Construction.

(AWC) National Design Specification for Wood Construction (NDS).

(CSA) 086-09 Engineering Design in Wood.

(CASE) National Practice Guidelines for Specialty Structural Engineers.

TFEC 1-2010 Standard for Design of Timber Frame Structures and Commentary.
IV. Definitions and Abbreviations

AS - Australian Standard

ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials

AWC – American Wood Council

CASE – Council of American Structural Engineers

CSA - Canadian Standards Association

Dovetails - is a joinery technique most commonly used in woodworking joinery

Joinery – a part of woodworking that involves joining together pieces of wood or
lumber, to produce more complex items.

Mortise and Tenon - connects two pieces of wood or of other material.

NZS – New Zealand Standard

Studs – A vertical post, especially one of the small uprights in the framing for lath
and plaster partitions, and furring, and upon which the laths are nailed.

V. Materials Definition and Specifications

Marking and measuring tools

A Japanese ink line called a Sumitsubo. Miki City Hardware Museum, Japan. 10s3200

Winding sticks are used to measure twist (winding) by viewing across one stick and comparing
how parallel the other stick is.
Tools for marking out and measuring:

• A rule, now better known as a ruler and similar to a yard stick, is used to measure.

• Repeated measurements often use a storey pole

• Carpenter's marks were made with a race knife, chisel, gouge, saw, grease pencil,
chalk pencil, or lead pencil.

• Chalk line or ink line used to snap lines on the wood. Ink and a slurry of charcoal were
used like chalk.

• Carpenter pencil

• Scratch awl or similar tools were used to scratch lines on wood before the pencil was
commonly used beginning in the 19th century in the U.S.

• Try square

• Steel square is also known as a framing square. Historically a square with

measurement markings on it was known as a "square rule" which is also a layout method.

• Combination square

• A Plumb-bob on a string is sometimes used with a plumb-rule or plumb-square to

measure vertical or horizontal and to transfer marks between timbers while scribing.

• Spirit level

• Dividers Used in measuring and proportioning

• Layout floor - a large, flat surface to mark lines and scribe timbers.

Hand powered cutting tools

• Saw

a. Crosscut saws to cut timbers to length and in making joints.

b. Japanese saws are special saws used in woodworking including timber framing
• Axes were sometimes used to cut timbers to length and in joinery.

• Hatchet

• Adzes are of many shapes and names.

• Framing Chisels are heavy duty. In Western carpentry common sizes are 1 1/2 and 2
inches wide. They are designed to be struck with a mallet

• A slick is a very large chisel designed to be pushed by hand, not struck.

• drills for boring holes in timber framing were typically T-auger. The cutting edge of
the bit can be of many shapes, the spiral auger being the standard shape since the 19th
century.

• Timber framers boring machines were invented by 1830 and hold an auger bit. They
made mortising easier and faster.

• Draw knives are used to chamfer edges of beams and shape pegs (treenails)

• Sometimes, particularly in wooden bridge building the pegs were shaped by being
driven through a hole in a heavy piece metal.

• Historically timbers meant to be seen in houses were smoothed with a hand

plane(Japanese plane including what is called a spear plane, yariganna or yari-kanna) and
decorated with a chamfer or bead.
• Twybil The name literally "two blades", historically rare in the U.S.

• Bisaigue A French tool with similarities to a long handled twybill

Powered cutting tools

• Circular saw

• Drill

• Band saw

• Router (woodworking)

• Power planers

a. One or two sided stationary rotary, thickness planers in a shop and up to a four-sided
planer (timber sizer) at a mill.
b. Hand held rotary power planers up to twelve inches wide.
• Chain mortiser

• A few modern framers use computer numerical control (CNC) machines to cut joinery.

• Chain saw
Splitting tools

A Froe is struck with a mallet to split blocks of wood into rough sizes for making pegs. Large
and long timbers are split (riven) with wedges

Holding tools

• Shaving horse may be used in making pegs

• Draw-bore pins temporarily hold a frame together during construction.

• Iron dogs or log dogs are used to hold timers during hewing, scribing or historically to
repair or reinforce a joint

• Sawhorses, short sawhorses are called ponies.

Material handling tools and equipment

• Gin pole or shear legs may be used in lifting wall sections or timbers.

• Pike pole used to push wall sections up during a barn raising

• Rope is used to lift or pull objects, sometimes in combination with

a windlass, bullwheel, or block and tackle.

• Cranes are sometimes used to lift assemblies and materials.

• Commander or beetel is a large, long handled mallet for forcing timbers together or
apart.

• Rollers, carts, or other lifting equipment are used to move the heavy timbers

VI. Work Method Statement

Two methods are used in standard wood house or “stick” framing—balloon or platform—and
both have advantages and disadvantages. Balloon framing is sometimes used with two-story
buildings. In balloon framing the studs extend as one, from the sill to the top plate of the
second story. The second story floor joists are supported by a ribbon board set into the studs.
This type of construction is the most difficult, but does provide unobstructed openings
between the floors allowing for easy installation of utilities without notching and cutting
openings. Fire stops must, however, be installed at the second story floor level between the
studs.
First step is to lay the sole plate for slab construction, or sill plate for a foundation/floor,
against the anchor bolts, mark their location and bore the holes.

Platform framing can be used for either single or two-story and is the easier and most common
method of construction. Fire stops are automatically created with this type of construction.
Constructing a single-story is the easiest, a two-story or split level is harder. Platform framing
is easier than balloon framing because you can construct and erect the second story walls on
the second story floors.

Wall construction on a concrete slab is anchored to the slab with anchor bolts through the
wall sole plate.

Either construction can be done on a concrete slab or on a foundation. The slab acts as a
floor; a foundation requires a floor to first be constructed. Then the walls are framed on the
floor (or slab) and raised in place.
The most common construction is on a foundation. In this case the floor is first framed,
anchored to the foundation, and covered with a subfloor.

From the Floor Up

If constructing on a foundation, the first step is to construct a floor on the foundation. Sill
plates are anchored to the foundation, then the floor joists are fastened to the sill plates and
their ends boxed in with joist headers. The headers and outside joists should fit flush with the
outside edges of the foundation. Metal hangers make installing the joists easier than toe-
nailing them in place.

In many instances of larger buildings, or those with joist spans over 16 feet, a girder is installed
to provide support for the floor at these locations. Today’s girders are commonly made of
engineered wood. The girder should be supported by piers or foundation and footings. With
the floor framed in, decking, or a subfloor, is added. Decking is typically oriented-strand board
(OSB), or 3/4-inch plywood sheathing. In the past solid wood 1-by boards were applied on
the diagonal.

The walls are then constructed on the slab or subfloor.

Wall Construction

After the deck or floor has been constructed, you’re ready to construct and erect the walls.
The walls consist of sole plates nailed to the subflooring, or anchored with anchor bolts to the
concrete slab. Studs are nailed to the sole plates and top plates are nailed to the studs.

Walls are actually constructed as one individual piece, or as sections in the case of long walls.
Shown is a typical wall with a door and window opening framed in.

Lay out the door and window openings on both the sole and top plate, as well as stud
locations, at the same time, using a tape measure and carpenter’s square.

Actually, the walls are assembled in one piece, or in the case of long walls, in sections joined
together to create the length needed. If building on a slab, the first step is to lay the sole
plate on the slab and mark the locations of the anchor bolts. Bore these holes. Regardless of
whether you are building on a slab or foundation, the next step is to lay the sole plate and
top plate side by side, and determine any door and window locations, as per the plans or your
building design. You must know the rough-opening sizes of any doors and windows. Using a
carpenter’s square, mark these rough opening locations on both. The tongue of the square is
1-1/2-inches wide, the exact width of kiln-dried 2-by framing materials. Then mark the stud
locations, again on both sole and top plate at the same time. This measurement may be on
16- or 24-inch centers, depending on building design or local codes.

A layout stick was often used by the old-timers to lay out stud locations.

Once all measurements have been marked on both sole and top plate, lay them on edge on
the subfloor or concrete slab, the proper distance apart of the stud lengths. If you use precut
studs you can save money and time. Fasten the studs between the plates, positioning their
ends in the previously marked locations.

Headers over doors and windows may be 2 x 6’s with cripple studs above them or full width
2 x1 0’s. Regardless, 3/8-inch plywood spacers are used to create a header width to match
the stud width.
Bracing of some sort is commonly used. The type and amount depends on code rules and
buildinhg design. One method is to inlet 1×4 wind or hurricane bracinginto the studs. Measure
from corner to corner of the constructed wall, then measure opposite corners and make sure
the wall is square.

Once the studs are in place, frame in the door and window openings, and then add the
headers. Headers may be constructed full width by using 2-by-10’s, or they may be created
by using 2-by-6’s filling in above them with cripple studs. Traditional headers are created by
nailing 3/8-inch plywood spacers between the header boards to create the same thickness in
the header as the 3-1/2-inch width of the studs. The headers are supported by trimmer studs
to create doubled studs in the openings. Cripple studs are fastened between the trimmers
beneath the door and window openings, and spaced to match the other studs on the same
16- or 24-inch centers.

Lay the bracing in place and mark on the wall studs. Then saw each side of the cut-out.
Complete the cut-out with a chisel.

A framing air nailer can save time if you have power to the site. If there is no power you can
use a cordless model such as the Paslode. Several years ago my daughter helped frame a
building and she had never “swung a hammer.” Using an air framing nailer, she had no
problems, and we completed the building in a short time.

Squaring the Frame

In some instances walls are constructed without additional bracing, using plywood or OSB
sheathing at the corners to brace and square the wall section. And in some cases the sheathing
is applied to the wall frame before erecting the wall. In either case the wall section is first
squared by measuring diagonally from corner to corner, then from opposite corner to corner
and shifting the wall section to create an equal measurement and a squared wall. A large
wooden 90-degree triangle can also be used. A temporary brace is then installed to hold the
wall square.

In many instances hurricane bracing is added to the walls. This consists of purchased metal
strips or 1-by-4’s set diagonally across the wall and cut into the outside edges of the 2-by-4’s.
With sole plate and top plate nailed into the studs, again use a tape measure to measure
diagonally from corner to corner and square up the wall. Temporarily tack the hurricane
bracing in place and mark the cut locations. Use a saw to cut the notches, and then remove
material between the saw marks with a chisel. Anchor the bracing in place with two 8d nails
at each stud, and then cut the ends of the bracing off flush with the plate edges. (Make sure
you check with local codes on bracing regulations in your area.)
With the wall constructed, tilt it up in place. This takes two people on even a small wall.

Drive 2 x 4 stakes into the ground and brace the wall in place, making sure it is braced plumb.
Construct the opposite wall, erect and brace it in place.

Raising the Walls

Erecting a wall is fairly easy, but even small walls are best erected by at least two people.
Erecting on a subfloor is easier than on a slab. Simply slide the wall close to the edge at its
location and tilt it up. I like to use temporary 2-by-4 stop blocks fastened to the outside edges
of the joists and headers to keep the wall from sliding off as you lift it up. If installing the wall
on a concrete slab, slide it up to the anchor bolts, then you will have to lift the wall up and
position it down on the anchor bolts. Again, this is at least a two-person chore, even for a
short wall.

If long walls are to be constructed in sections, make the joint on a stud.

With the wall up in position, drive 2-by-4 stakes in the ground and provide temporary supports
anchored to the wall studs and stakes. Duplex nails used for constructing foundations are
good for this step, as they can more easily be pulled later. Make sure the wall is plumb and
correctly in position before anchoring the bracing. If placed on a slab, fasten the sole plate in
place with washers and nuts over the sole plate and on the anchor bolts. If on a
foundation/floor, nail the sole plate down on the subfloor and into the floor joists and headers.
If the wall is to be built in sections, build the next section, erect it, brace in place and fasten
to the previously erected wall. Note the wall joints are always on a stud.

Construct the end walls to fit between the side walls, erect and brace them.
After making sure all corners are plumb, fasten the end wall end studs to the side-wall end
studs.

Construct, erect and brace the opposite wall in place in the same manner. Then construct the
wall that fits between the two standing walls. This wall is measured to fit between the
previously erected walls, measuring at the bottom. Construct and erect the opposite-end wall
in the same manner. On these walls, start with studs on each end, and then measure for the
“on-center” studs, adding the 2-by-4 or 2-by-6 measurement of the studs on the previously
erected walls. As with the other walls, openings are framed in the same manner and bracing
applied. In any case these walls are erected between the two adjoining walls, plumbed and
then anchored to the outside studs on the two adjoining walls. Brace the center section to
keep it from bowing out or in.
If the building is not rectangular or square, but has extensions, construct these walls, joining
at the corners, again basically creating two “sides” and then erecting the ends to join the
opposite walls together. The tops of the walls at corners and wall section joints are joined by
nailing a second top plate down over the top plate, crossing over all joints to tie them securely
together. This second top plate creates the final wall height of a standard 8-foot wall.

Cut and remove the sole plate between door openings.

Interior walls joining exterior or other interior walls also need corner blocking.

Using a handsaw, cut and remove the section of sole plate at the bottom of each door opening.
Corner blocking is added at corners to provide a square corner for installation of interior wall
coverings. This may be done in several ways, as shown in the diagrams. Interior walls are
framed, erected and anchored in place in the same way, again using a second top plate to tie
them together and to the exterior walls. Corner blocking is needed at each interior wall corner
to provide for fastening interior wall coverings. After erection of the walls, you’re ready to
install ceiling joists on top of the walls. If constructing a second story platform-style, you
simply repeat the entire process. Again constructing a floor on top of the walls, then
constructing and erecting the second-story walls.

Corner blocking is needed to create corners for interior wall coverings.

Framing Details

Framing details added during wall construction will make it easier to finish off a building. For
instance you can add wall backing to any tub and faucet inlet areas, as well as wall-hung
appliance locations. This will make it easier to install all of these and is easier to do during
wall construction than after the walls have been erected. You can also add blocking to help
support tubs. Some builders fasten in additional short blocking at each corner near the floor
to provide better support for nailing baseboards in place. This allows you to nail the
baseboards further back from their ends and prevent splitting out the ends. Bridging can be
installed in the floor between joints during construction to create a better quality and “less
squeaky” floor.

Framing details can make it easier to finish off the building. Tub supports can support the
edges of tubs.

Short corner blocks at each corner make it easier to install baseboards.

Framing a building doesn’t have to be daunting if you take it one step at a time, follow plans
and regulations and start simple.
VII. Quality Assurance and Control

Wood framing is widely used throughout the construction industry, but the cost doubles that
of metal framing. It is still the preferred method of construction, particularly for emergency
and temporary construction. Quarters and temporary barracks may be of typical frame house
construction. Storehouses, particularly of the large one story type, may have frames of wood
posts, beams, and joists with wood roof sheathing. Shop buildings may have to be built of
wood when steel and concrete are not available. Such structures may require heavy built-up
timber columns and trusses, particularly if crane runways have to be provided. Large, wooden
hangars have been built, necessitating trusses, with each member consisting of a number of
heavy planks.

Structures that require wide span construction have occasionally been framed with laminated
wood arches, consisting of a large number of plies of relatively thin planks, glued together
with special waterproof, durable glue. You may encounter many other special types of
framing. With changing technology, glued laminated beams could be a thing of the past, and
plastics may take over--who knows? We just cannot cover every aspect of the construction
industry.

As the inspector, you must familiarize yourself fully with the drawings and specifications and
the standard specifications used for references. Make sure the framing material is of the
specified grade and size, and the surface has been inspected and grade marked.

You must make certain that the nails, bolts, screws, connector rings, and other fastening
devices conform to the requirements in type and size. Also ensure that metal ties, straps,
hangers, stirrups, joist hangers, and similar accessories are suitable and correctly used. Where
numerous plies of lumber are held together by long through-bolts, you should recheck the
tightness of the nuts before the project is finally accepted because shrinkage of the lumber
may have caused them to loosen. As an inspector, make sure that the wall material conforms
to the specifications as to the kind of wood, grade, and manufacture or has been inspected
or grade marked. You must ensure that the wall sheathing is tight and covered with a building
wrap (vapor barrier) and flashed as necessary for weather tightness. Also make certain that
siding is applied carefully so that the lines are straight and true and that laps and exposed
faces are correct. In addition, make sure that nails are the specified kind and weight, are
driven flush, recessed, or blind, as specified, and that, if recessed, they are filled over with a
suitable plastic wood putty.
Wood partitions are used in all frame construction. In most cases, wood partitions are
composed of 2 by 4 inch wood studs with sills and plates of the same material. Studs are
doubled at openings, and the top plates are usually doubled to provide strong splices.

Headers, encountered in light frame construction, are required at all openings of load-bearing
and non-load-bearing walls. Remember, non-load-bearing headers run parallel with the joist,
and unless the opening is more than 3 feet wide, a single 2 by 4 (laid flat) is sufficient as a
header. Load-bearing headers run perpendicular to the joist and carry the load immediately
above the openings. Load-bearing headers should be doubled and laid on edge. If the opening
is more than 3 feet in width, the header will need additional strength to carry the load imposed
upon it from above. Check the local building codes, plans, and specifications, and Architectural
Graphics Standard (AGS) for more information on headers.

Wood partitions to be finished on both sides are covered with wood lath, metal lath,
plasterboard, or some other base, or may be covered in drywall construction with wallboard
of various types. Wood partitions in offices are frequently covered by paneling. This type of
construction uses studs spaced fairly wide apart (2 feet) with either tongue and groove panels,
wallboard, Masonite, or other material used for wall coverings. Such partitions frequently
extend only part way to the ceiling, and the upper panels may be glazed, glass panels, or
glass block. In the tropics, wood partitions may be surfaced on one side only, leaving the
studding fully exposed on the other side to eliminate all concealed spaces and permit effective
control of termites and other vermin.

As the inspector, you must ensure:

• That all partitions are adequately anchored to the floor, walls, and ceiling, as specified, and
are adequately braced and stiffened at all splices and corners.

• That studs are set truly plumb and in line, and are well nailed to sills and plates.

• That plaster base or other surfacing or panels and trim are carefully and accurately installed
so that a neat, workmanlike finish is obtained. When necessary, make sure that all fastenings
are completely concealed behind the trim and that the latter is nailed with finish brads.
VIII. Inspection Test Plan

Domestic Construction – Timber Framing – Completion Checklist

Owner:

Builder: QBCC Licence:

Project:

Site Address:

Supervisor: Phone No:

Date: Job No:

Component / Action/Comment

Check plans and contract

documents for any variations

Room set outs and wall locations

consistent with approved plans

Wall frame plumb and straight

sufficient to receive wall finishes

Tie down fixings to slab at least

50mm from slab edge

Bottom plate not overhanging slab

edge by more than 10mm.

All wall bracing in position as

required on approved plans and
properly fixed including tie-down
rods. Nails not overdriven
Domestic Construction – Timber Framing – Completion Checklist

Owner:

Builder: QBCC Licence:

Project:

Site Address:

Supervisor: Phone No:

Date: Job No:

Component / Action/Comment

Roof and truss point loads

supported and blocked if required

Truss layout consistent with truss

plan and fixed at correct centres

Trusses plumb (max allowable

50mm or height/50) and not bowed
(max allowable 50mm or bowed
section/200)

Saddle trusses properly fixed to

supporting truss top chord

Roof tie down in accordance with

approved plans and truss
manufacturers requirements

Strengthening for installation of

solar hot water system installed

Roof steel bracing properly installed

in accordance with truss plan.
Where fixed to wall frame bracing
Domestic Construction – Timber Framing – Completion Checklist

Owner:

Builder: QBCC Licence:

Project:

Site Address:

Supervisor: Phone No:

Date: Job No:

Component / Action/Comment

nailed flat to avoid interfering with

wall sheet or cornice

Truss bottom chord bracing installed

where suspended ceilings or metal
furring channel ceiling battens used.

Binders installed

Transfer noggings installed

connecting bracing walls to trussed
roof frame

Non load bearing walls set down a

minimum of ceiling batten depth +
10mm from the level of external
load bearing walls.

Non load bearing walls connected to

trusses with slotted wall brackets
where required.

Entry bulkheads straight and level

Domestic Construction – Timber Framing – Completion Checklist

Owner:

Builder: QBCC Licence:

Project:

Site Address:

Supervisor: Phone No:

Date: Job No:

Component / Action/Comment

Ceilings nogged for plaster sheet

joins and at change of direction

Internal door opening sizes

consistent with plans

Bottom plate removed from all

internal doorways

Internal bulkheads installed plumb

and straight

Plumbing duct and vent pipe

framing plumb and straight

Lintel sizes as shown on approved

plan

Windows fixed in accordance with

window manufacturers
requirements or Aust Window
Assoc. recommendations

Windows plumb and level

Domestic Construction – Timber Framing – Completion Checklist

Owner:

Builder: QBCC Licence:

Project:

Site Address:

Supervisor: Phone No:

Date: Job No:

Component / Action/Comment

Bath properly framed up and

supported with appropriate
clearance for tiles and sheeting

Nogging installed for WC cistern and

toilet roll holder

Nogging installed for ensuite cistern

and toilet roll holder

Nogging installed for bathroom

towel rails

Nogging installed for ensuite towel

rail

Noggings installed for panel lift door

Noggings installed for clothes dryer

Other noggings required and

installed

Manhole correctly positioned &

framed.
Domestic Construction – Timber Framing – Completion Checklist

Owner:

Builder: QBCC Licence:

Project:

Site Address:

Supervisor: Phone No:

Date: Job No:

Component / Action/Comment

Fascia fixed and aligned properly

Fascia properly aligned for external

cladding or brickwork where there is
no eaves overhang

Trimmers and battens installed to

eaves to properly fix eaves lining

Temporary bracing removed

Windows checked to ensure they

are not damaged

House swept and clear of debris

Site clear of rubbish

Frame inspection passed

Sub-Contractor: QBCC Licence:

 Domestic Construction – Timber Framing – Completion Checklist

Owner:

Builder: QBCC Licence:

Project:

Site Address:

Supervisor: Phone No:

Date: Job No:

Component / Action/Comment

IX. Safety

• All guards and covers should be replaced after adjustments or maintenance of equipment.
• Make sure handrails and walkways are in good repair and clear of tools, spare parts
• and obstructions.
• Never adjust or lubricate equipment while it is operating.
• Stand clear of hauling equipment that is dumping material into a hopper or anywhere else.
• Always look around equipment before starting to make sure no one is near moving
• parts, making inspections or adjustments.
• Do not drop material or tools from walkways or ladders without barricading the area
• below or having someone standing by to keep other persons away from the danger area.
• Blocking under and around equipment or structure must be of suitable material and
• properly placed to support the structure. Periodically check blocking for signs of failure or
• shifting that could allow structure or equipment to fall.
• Only electricians should handle any kind of work on electrical equipment. Avoid touching
• any loose or misplaced electrical wires. Consider them all dangerous.
• Mark all flammable materials: such as oils, grease and gasoline. Store these materials in
• an incombustible building situated always from other structures. NO SMOKING while
• handling flammable materials.
• Proper clothing while on the job is important. Wear sturdy shoes to protect feet. Do not
• wear loosely hanging or torn clothing on the job. This type of clothing can get caught in
• moving parts of the equipment and generally hinders work. Wear gloves whenever
• possible. The use of hard hats and safety glasses or goggles is definite safety protective
• equipment and must be worn when required.
• Think safety! Having and maintaining an attitude of safety on the job greatly reduces
• the chances of injury. Point out hazards and instruct new employees on safety.

X. Risk Assessment / Job Hazard Analysis

Problem:

Workers who install framing and roof trusses may fall from heights. Falls from heights include
worker falls to a lower level which result in injury on impact against an object or the ground.

Risk Description:

Workers working above ground level may pose a safety hazard and be at risk of falling from
heights. The result of such fall can potentially cause fractures, sprains, strains, contusions,
severe damage to internal organs and even death.

Level of Risk:

In The Construction Chart Book 5th edition published by CPWR, Chapter 43 describes falls as
the leading cause of fatalities in construction between 1992-2010 (graphs 43a and 43c).
Chapter 44 provides detailed information about falls in construction, including the number of
fatal falls for each year between 1992 and 2010 (graph 44a), the large number of fall fatalities
in small enterprises (graph 44b), the high rates of fatal injuries among power-line installers,
roofers and ironworkers (graph 44c) of non-fatal fall injuries in ironworkers, sheetmetal
workers, roofers, heating and air conditioning mechanics, and carpenters (graph 44d) and the
importance of falls from roofs, ladders and scaffolds as causes of fatal injuries (graph 44e).

Assessment Info:

Assessment of fall hazards should be an integral part of the site safety planning process. For
example, for a given construction work activity consider the: 1) height at where the task will
be done, 2) time spent above the ground level, 3) slope of the work platform, 4) guarding of
the platform edges and 5) surface of the work platform.
A team of safety experts from Washington University developed an auditing tool entitled "St.
Louis Audit of Fall Risks" and an associated protocol for assessing fall hazards in residential
construction.

Select Solution:

• Engineering control
o Ladder Safety Base System

A safety base system that secures an extension ladder up to 60 feet to prevent kick out and
reduce lateral movement when used in conjunction with proper ladder techniques.

o Portable Lift Platform

A portable lift platform provides access to elevated worksites and can be transported,
assembled, and operated by one person.

• Administrative control
o Building Information Modeling (BIM) for Safety Planning

BIM is a concept that offers software application to integrate building information for hazard
identification and safety planning.

o Last Planner® System

The Last Planner® System is a production planning and control system designed to produce
predictable work flow and improve project performance across the design, construction and
commissioning stages of construction projects.

o Lean Construction

Lean construction processes are streamlined to eliminate operational inefficiencies and

enhance the value on projects.

• Personal Protective Equipment

o Personal Fall Arrest Systems

A personal fall arrest system is an active form of fall protection designed to catch a worker
after a fall to prevent severe injury.
XI. Resources

Construction Inspector’s Guide, NAVFAC P456 (series), Naval Facilities Engineering

Command, Alexandria, VA, 1985.

Construction Inspector Guide, EP 415-1-261, Volumes 1-4, U.S. Army Corps of

Engineers, Washington, DC, 1982.

Construction Quality Control Manual, NAVFAC P-445, Naval Facilities Engineering

Command, Alexandria, VA, 1988.

Construction Quality Control (CQC) Program, COSECONDNCBINST/

COMTHIRDNCBINST 4355.1 (series), Commander, Second Naval Construction

Brigade, Norfolk, VA, and Commander, Third Naval Construction Brigade, Pearl Harbor,

HI, 1985.

Equipment Operator Basic, NAVEDTRA 12535, Naval Education and Training

Professional Development and Technology Center, Pensacola, FL, 1994.

Facilities Support Contract Quality Management Program, MO-327, Naval Facilities

Engineering Command, Alexandria, VA, 1985.

NCF/Seabee Petty Officer 1 & C, NAVEDTRA 12543, Naval Education and Training

Professional Development and Technology Center, Pensacola, FL, 1995.

O’Brien, James J., Construction Inspection Handbook “Quality Assurance and Quality

Control,” 3d cd., Chapman and Hall Publishers, New York, NY, 1989.

Safety and Health Requirements Manual, EM 385-1-1, Department of the Army,

Washington, DC, 1995.

Wagner, Willis H., Modem Carpentry, The Goodheart-Wilcox Company, Inc., South

Holland, IL, 1992.

CPWR — The Center for Construction Research and Training

XII. Appendix

APPENDIX A: Mortise and Tenon Corner Joint

Used primarily on plates and floor systems, this corner joint uses a mortise and tenon on one
plate (red) and a tusk tenon on the opposing plate (purple). The opposing plate (purple) gets
housed onto the plate for bearing. It is important that the plate bears on the post and not the
tenon. To account for timber shrinkage it is recommended that you oversize the bottom of
the mortise of the tusk tenon. A couple of pegs in each joint secure them.
To help eliminate joinery conflicts there are two different sizes of knee braces: a 36" (aqua)
and a 32" (green). We still had to clip the 32" brace tenon a little at the bottom.
APPENDIX B: TYPES OF TIMBER HOME TRUSS
 Work Method Statement of Timber Formworks

I. Introduction
Formwork is either temporary or permanent moulds which hold materials like concrete.
Timber formwork takes the form of a structure of boards surrounding an open cavity, and also
offers several advantages over other formwork types.
Formwork system can be generally classified as Vertical Systems (wall and column)
and Horizontal Systems (slab and beam). The material serving as the contact face of forms is
known as sheathing and it is used in both the vertical and horizontal systems.

II. Purpose / Scope of Work

Formwork allows contractors to cast and construct the main parts of a building which
are required to be strong and support the structure such as floors and walls, as well as smaller
parts of a building such as stairs relatively quickly.
There are many different types of formwork used in construction, usually differing
according to what the building requirements and challenges are. Formwork is used by creating
moulds out of wood, steel, aluminum or prefabricated forms into which the concrete is poured.
This is then allowed to harden and set after which it is stripped, or in the case of stay-in-place
formwork it is left as part of the structure.

III. Standard References

ACI 301 – Structural Concrete for Buildings
ACI 318 – Building Code Requirements for Reinforced Concrete
ACI 347 – Recommended Practice for Concrete Formwork
ASME A17.1 – Safety Code for Elevators, Dumbwaiters, Escalators, and Moving Walks
PS 1 – Construction and Industrial Plywood

IV. Definitions and Abbreviations

ACI – American Concrete Institute

ASME – American Society of Mechanical Engineers

Moulds – a hollow container used to give shape to molten or hot liquid materials

Tie bars – deformed rebars or connectors used for holding faces of rigid slabs in contact to
maintain aggregate interlock
 V. Materials Definition and Specifications

Formwork Materials:

The selection of materials suitable for formwork should be based on the price, safety during
construction, and the quality required in the finished product. Materials used for the
construction of concrete formwork range from traditional materials such as Timber, steel,
aluminum, and plywood to nontraditional materials such as fiberglass.

1. Timber:

Timber is widely used for many construction applications including concrete formwork. Timber
is harvested from trees and is classified as hardwood and softwood.

2. Metals:

The initial cost of metal formwork is more than timber formwork but the number of reuses of
metal formwork is higher than that of timber.

3. Glass-Reinforced Plastic:

Glass-reinforced plastic also produces high quality concrete finishes. Plastic formwork could
be reinforced or un-reinforced. Plastic is reinforced by glass fibers. Plastic formwork is lighter
but less durable than metal formwork.

VI. Work Method Statement

1. All formwork activities will be carried out in accordance with the specification.

2. After studying the structural drawings, the Project Engineer will plan for sizes, numbers and
type of formwork to be used in consultation with the Structural Engineer, if required.
Depending upon the programme, the number of repetitions will be decided.

External designers may be used for specific systems.

3. Availability of formwork will be checked with the Procurement Manager and decision will be
taken to buy, hire or reuse formwork material.

4. During fabrication of formwork shutters, all dimensions shall be cross-checked with a view
to avoiding corrective action during erection.
5. Paint reference numbers on all panels to ensure their use in correct positions.

6. Ensure that the props, shores, waling, bearers, clamps and tie rods are the right size and
at the correct spacings. The Formwork designer shall check the falsework system with respect
to load imposed on it and design parameters as laid down in the specification.

7. Check that the falsework is securely braced and is on a firm foundation.

8. Forms fastened to previously cast concrete must be tightly fixed to prevent grout loss.
Cellular form plastic strips can be used to make a seal.

9. Check quality of shutter lining, tightness of bolts and wedges, built-in items, inserts and
other embedment.

10. Tie – rod holes to be made in the formwork shall be neat so that they can be patched or
plugged later on.

11. Particular attention will be paid to the rigidity and line of stop ends and joint formers.

12. Remove all tie-wire clippings and nails, which may stain both the formwork and the
concrete.

13. Ensure that adequate access and working platforms are in place for the concreting gang
and that toe boards and guardrails are provided.

14. A spreader or lifting beam shall be used to prevent distortion when placing formwork.

15. Adjustable steel props shall be erected in plumb and verticality of props checked using a
spirit level.

16. A prop should not be used if it is bent, creased or, rusted or has a bent head or base
plate, damaged pin etc.

17. Proper release of agent shall be used so that it can be removed without damaging the
surface finish of the concrete.

18. New timber and plywood forms shall be given first coat of the appropriate release agent
36 hours in advance, then a second coat just before they are used. Avoid excessive use of
release agent as this can cause staining or retardation of the concrete.
 19. A close watch should be kept on all wedges and fastenings. Make sure that they do not
work loose. Grout loss is an indication that some movement has occurred.

20. When unsleeved tie bars are being used, ease them slightly before the concrete sets, and
remove them as soon as it is safe.

VII. Quality Assurance and Control

1. Perform Work in accordance with ACI 347.

2. Formwork shall be of steel or timber providing it is constructed so as to be rigid during

casting of the concrete and sufficiently water tight to prevent loss of the liquid from the
concrete and it shall be adequately propped and braced in their correct position and shall be
sufficiently strong to resist distortion by the pressure of the wet concrete constructional loads,
wind and other forces.

3. The deflection shall not exceed 3mm. Bottoms of beam boxes shall be erected with an
upward camber of 10mm for each 5.0 meters of span. If so instructed the designs for
shuttering shall be submitted to the Engineer for review before construction.

4. Shuttering shall be provided for the top faces of sloping work, and anchored to prevent
floatation, where the slope exceeds more than 15 degrees from horizontal. The inside faces
of all forms shall be treated wild mould oil of type approved by the Engineer and the Contractor
shall promptly removed any mould oil, which sticks onto reinforcement or other embedded
fittings.

5. Before any concrete is placed, all shavings, dirt and rubbish shall be removed from the
formwork and whenever required by the Engineer, this shall be done with compressed air.
Formwork shall be also wetted with water immediately before concreting.

6. Forms are to conform to the shapes, lines, grades and dimensions of the concrete shown
on the drawings and to the Engineer’s approval. Suitable temporary openings shall be left in
all formwork to facilitate cleaning out of the works before placing of concrete. In deep sections
provision is to be made for placing concrete in such a manner that shall have to drop more
than 1.25m.

7. Where concrete is to be poured in successive lifts care shall be taken to ensure that the
formwork is set tightly against the concrete of the proceeding lift to prevent the formation of
lips and loss of grout or liquid between the formwork and concrete.
 8. On exposed concrete faces, no method of fixing the forms shall be used, which involves
any kind of fixing in the concrete or any patching of the concrete face.

9. No concrete shall be placed anywhere until the Engineer has inspected and approved the
formwork and reinforcement and the Contractor shall give him reasonable notice to enable
this to be done. In all cases, the Contractor shall give a minimum of 24-hour notice for
inspection, but not later than 2:00pm each day. Contractor shall, on a daily basis, provide
Engineer a schedule of concrete pour for the following day.

10. The contractor shall be responsible for properly supporting all concrete until it is sufficiently
strong for the formwork and props to be removed. No formwork shall be removed without the
Engineer’s prior approval and in no case shall any shuttering be removed the following times
have elapsed after placing the concrete.

VIII. Inspection Test Plan

IX. Safety

1. The weights of large prefabricated sections of formwork should be marked on them so that
the lifting capacity of the crane at the working radius is not exceeded. Lifting points are usually
provided.

2. If necessary, a spreader or lifting beam shall be used to prevent distortion.

3. Where lifting is done by the vertical soldiers, check that they are adequately connected to
the walings.

4. Fire extinguishers in working order shall be in close proximity to the stored formwork.
X. Risk Assessment / Job Hazard Analysis

1. Site orientation/ Induction

2. Claim work area

3. Acceptance of delivery to site via crane truck

4. Cut timber boards to size using a circular saw

5. Installation of Modular Steel Formwork Support Frames

6. Install bearers and joists to formwork support frames

7. Nail joist into place using an Impulse (gas) Nail Gun

8. Install plywood formwork to support framing

9. Install screws using a Battery Powered Drill

10. Stripping formply

11. Removal of formwork support frames

12. Cleaning up work area

13. Monitoring and Review of JHA

XI. Resources

Quality Assurance and Quality Control in Construction – Understanding about Framework in

Construction

Chandlers Ford Timber – Timber Formwork Advantages

Formwork Requirements, Types, Material & Accessories (Chapter 2)

XII. Appendix

APPENDIX A: CONTRACTOR INSPECTION AND TEST PLAN