Spring-Summer 1995
Evening gown worn by Madonna at
the 1995 Brit Awards
Pleated silver grey satin with beaded sheer inserts
Pleated, pearl-like satin flows without interruption
from a fitted bodice to drift on the ground – the
knife-edged pleats were painstakingly engineered
to cling to the torso and open gradually as they
descend beyond the hips. Flared, diaphanous inserts,
embroidered with a graduated design of beads and
iridescent paillettes, permitted tempting glimpses
of the legs beneath. A silvery composition in delicate
fabrics, it alludes to the most luxurious of 1930s
lingerie and eveningwear.
‘LINGERIE’ ‘LINGERIE’
Spring-Summer 1994
Evening dress
Cream crinkled silk satin and synthetic lace,
gilt safety pins
Versace played with the notion of intimate lingerie
transformed into eveningwear, treating the satin so
that it appeared permanently crumpled, as if the
wearer had been caught ‘déshabillé’. The dress has
an asymmetrical lace bodice and very full skirt of
the finest satin lined with silk chiffon and slashed at
the side. Gilt pins ‘fasten’ the bodice.
‘LINGERIE’ ‘LINGERIE’
Spring-Summer 1997
Evening gown worn by
Courtney Love
Ivory satin and chiffon
Inspired by 1930s bias-cut gowns, particularly the
work of Madeleine Vionnet, Versace created a dress
that is angelic but also dangerously provocative in
that it clings to every contour and has a plunging
back neckline. The soft folds of the bodice front are
caught in position by hidden stitches, while the
shape of the back neck is retained by light boning.
Versace enhanced its fragility and simplicity with
asymmetrical panels that float down the back.
Spring-Summer 1997
Evening dress
Grey silk georgette and synthetic lace, gilt safety pins
This cobweb-like creation in the softest of greys also
alludes to the negligee in its seductiveness and
femininity. Versace used glittering gilt pins, inspired
by street-styles, to ‘harden up’ this fragile garment.
Spring-Summer 1994
Man’s evening ensemble, jacket,
shirt and jeans
White wool and safety pins, silk, cotton twill
Though far removed from its street-style inspiration,
this single-breasted jacket was ideal for the urbane
man-about-town aiming for a classic look with a
twist. One sleeve is slashed from shoulder to wrist,
while the other has a slashed shoulder seam. Both
rents are secured by bejewelled kilt pins. Three gilt
Medusa-head buttons fasten the single-breasted
front. Worn over black it would have triumphed as
the perfect companion to the famous ‘Liz Hurley’
dress.
‘LINGERIE’ ‘LINGERIE’
Autumn-Winter 1994/95
Ballgown
Eau de Nil silk taffeta moiré
As designers before him such as Dior and Balmain,
Versace was intrigued by 19th-century styles. He
took his lead from the long, tight cuirasse bodice of
the 1870s and 1880s when composing this exquisite,
pastel-coloured ballgown. Immaculate top-stitched
and corded triangular panels shape the taffeta and
give the corset-like bodice rigidity. This formal and
romantic masterpiece – fit for a debutante – is an
eloquent expression of Versace’s haute couture
skills.