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OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
CON J U R I NG T H E U N I V E R SE
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
1
Great Clarendon Street, Oxford, OX2 6DP,
United Kingdom
Oxford University Press is a department of the University of Oxford.
It furthers the University’s objective of excellence in research, scholarship,
and education by publishing worldwide. Oxford is a registered trade mark of
Oxford University Press in the UK and in certain other countries
© Peter Atkins 2018
The moral rights of the author have been asserted
First Edition published in 2018
Impression: 1
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in
a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the
prior permission in writing of Oxford University Press, or as expressly permitted
by law, by licence or under terms agreed with the appropriate reprographics
rights organization. Enquiries concerning reproduction outside the scope of the
above should be sent to the Rights Department, Oxford University Press, at the
address above
You must not circulate this work in any other form
and you must impose this same condition on any acquirer
Published in the United States of America by Oxford University Press
198 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10016, United States of America
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
Data available
Library of Congress Control Number: 2017942099
ISBN 978–0–19–881337–8
Printed in Great Britain by
Clays Ltd, St Ives plc
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
PR E FAC E
pr eface
Notes at the end of the book, which I have treated as a safe space for
harbouring equations.
I hope in the following pages that I answer questions that might
have occurred to you but have gone unanswered, and that my
words will reveal some aspects of the astonishing simplicity of this
gloriously complex world.
P e t e r At k i ns
Oxford, 2017
vi
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
CON T E N T S
Notes 169
Index 183
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
1
-
Back to Eternity
The nature of laws
2
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
3
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
4
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
5
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6
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
* * *
The point of all this preamble is that the evidence I shall bring
forward for not much happening is to show that the laws of nature
stem from it. I shall argue that at least one class of natural law
stems from not much happening on day dot. It seems to me that
that amounts to powerful evidence for my view, for if the machin-
ery of the world, the laws that govern behaviour, emerge from this
view, then the need to have that elaborate hypothesis of a law-
giving agent, commonly known as a god, is avoided. The laws that
do not emerge from indolence I shall argue spring from anarchy,
the imposition of no laws. In the course of planning this account, I
came to realize that anarchy might in some cases be too restrictive,
but then I saved the concept in all its potency by allowing anarchy
to form an alliance with ignorance. You will come to see what I
mean. At one stage I shall even invoke ignorance as a powerful tool
for achieving knowledge.
I must stress that in this account I have in mind only physical
laws, the laws that govern tangible entities, balls, planets, things in
general, stuff, intangible radiation, fundamental particles, and so
on. I leave aside moral law, which some still ascribe to a god pro-
moted to God, the supposed inexhaustible, incomprehensible,
free-flowing fount of all goodness, the arbiter of good and evil, the
rewarder of the sheep and forgiver of the goat. My position, for the
sake of clarity, is that biological and social phenomena all emerge
7
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
from physical law, so if you were to mine down into my belief, you
would find my view to be that an appeal to indolence and anarchy
embraces all aspects of human behaviour. But I shall not develop
that thought here.
* * *
8
OUP CORRECTED PROOF – FINAL, 22/11/17, SPi
9
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Part III
HOUSEHOLD ARTS
Chapter XI
CLAY-MODELLING AND PLASTER-CASTING
The boy on whom nature has bestowed the natural talent and
liking for art-work will find clay-modelling a fascinating and pleasing
branch to follow.
To become a perfect modeller, and finally a sculptor, requires
years of patience and perseverance, but to copy simple objects in
clay is not a difficult matter, and with some clay, a few tools, and the
skeletons, or supports, the amateur should not meet with any great
obstacle if the following descriptions and instructions are accepted
and practised.
Very few tools are necessary at the beginning, and Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4,
5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11, shown in Fig. 5, are a full complement for
any beginner. The first four are wire tools, made of spring-steel or
brass wire, about which fine wire is wrapped. The ends of the wires
are securely bound to the end of a round wooden handle, and
sometimes, for convenience, two ends are made fast to a single
handle. These tools are called “double-enders,” and are used in
roughing out the clay in the first stages of the work. No. 5 is a
boxwood tool with one serrated edge, and is used for finishing. The
tools shown in Nos. 6 and 7 are of steel, and are of use on plaster,
where others would not be sufficiently durable. Nos. 8, 9, 10, and 11
are boxwood tools, a wire loop being fastened in the end of No. 9.
Any of these tools can be purchased at an art-material store for a
few cents each, except the steel tools, which are more expensive.
THE TOOLS
Fig. 5.
Never complete one part and leave the remaining ones until later;
always work up the model uniformly, adding a little here and there, or
taking away, as may be necessary, and so developing the whole
composition gradually.
Moisten the clay occasionally with water sprayed on with a small
watering-pot or a greenhouse sprinkler, to keep it soft and ductile.
When not being worked upon it should be covered with wet cloths, to
keep it moist.
As the work progresses the clay may be allowed to harden and
consolidate, but not to dry; if allowed to dry entirely the model may
be considered ruined, as the shrinkage of the clay around the
support results in fissures and fractures that cannot be repaired.
By the time the amateur has acquired the knowledge to attempt a
full-size figure he will be able to invent the devices to support it.
The support, or skeleton, must of course be adapted to line with
the pose of the figure, and should be of pipe and heavy wire or rods
securely anchored to the base-plate.
The composition of flowers, fruit, foliage, animal life, and
landscape is an inexhaustible one, and some beautiful effects can be
had in flat-work. Good examples of this character of work may be
found on all sides, and to the genius the field of modelling is a broad
one—without limit.
Hollow Casting
When very large objects that would require a great deal of plaster
are cast, they are generally made hollow in the following manner:
Obtain the glue mould by the process described, and into it pour a
quantity of thin plaster, having first oiled the surfaces that come in
contact with it. Turn the mould about and upside down, so that the
plaster will enter every part and adhere to the glue form. Allow it to
“set,” and again pour some plaster into the mould. This will adhere to
the first coating, and after it has set repeat the operation several
times, until a deposit, or coating, an inch or more in thickness has
been made.
The glue mould on being removed will reveal a perfect plaster-
casting that, instead of being solid, is hollow, and in consequence is
much lighter.
Modelling a Foot
Bas-relief Modelling
A Medallion Head
After some experience in casting ornaments in bas-relief has been
obtained, it would be well to try a head or bust.
A simple method of doing this is to take an ordinary school slate
and make the outline of a head on it. Within this outline you build up
roughly with your finger and thumb a cake of clay about half an inch
in thickness; then with your modelling instruments work it up as
accurately as your artistic skill will permit (see Fig. 13).
When in the progress of your work you find it necessary to leave it
for a short time, be careful to cover it over with a wet cloth, and if for
a long time, put two wet cloths over it, and cover them in turn with a
sheet of newspaper. This is necessary to keep the clay from getting
hard and unfit for working. If at any time you find the clay getting too
stiff, sprinkle it with water shaken from a whisk-broom. To make the
moulds of your clay model you will require a little plaster of Paris,
some lard oil, and some soap, and then your outfit is complete.
When your clay medallion is finished, build a wall of clay around it
of about an inch and a quarter in height, as shown in Fig. 13; then
get a teacupful of lard or olive oil, and add to it a good teaspoonful of
any kind of soap scraped fine. Put this on the stove and stir until it is
thoroughly mixed; then with a soft camel’s-hair brush lay a slight coat
over your entire work.
You must now mix your plaster. If the surface of your medallion is,
say, one foot by six inches, you will require about two pounds of
plaster to about a quart of water. Sprinkle the plaster into the water,
and then watch it until bubbles have ceased to come to the surface.
When no more bubbles appear, stir it up well with a stick. The
mixture should be about the consistency of thick cream. The exact
proportions you must find out by experiment. This plaster cream you
pour quickly over your medallion, blowing gently with your mouth on
the fluid as it spreads itself over the face of your work; this is to
prevent the formation of bubbles. In a short time the plaster will
become hard; you then remove your clay wall, and lift the plaster
mould, or matrix, from the clay. This you do by passing a penknife all
round between the plaster and the slate, after which it lifts easily. You
have now a perfect plaster mould. If you find any small particles of
clay adhering to it, wash them off with a soft camel’s-hair brush and
water.
You now want to get a plaster cast from your matrix. To do this you
lay a coat of the soap and oil mixture with a camel’s-hair brush all
over the face of the mould, and then pour in the plaster just as you
did before, taking the same precautions to blow upon the plaster and
to build a wall of clay around the mould.
You let this stand for half an hour until it is perfectly set, when you
can remove your casting by passing a thin-bladed knife all round
between the matrix and the casting. If it does not then lift easily,
plunge the whole thing in water for an instant, after which you will
have no difficulty in separating the two parts.
You now have a plaster cast of your original work, which you can
touch up and finish off with sand-paper, or with the blade of a
penknife if necessary.
You can, of course, make as many casts as you please from your
mould, and thus have very pretty little souvenirs to present to your
friends.
MEDALLION AND PLAIN CASTING
Fig. 13. Fig. 14. Fig. 15. Fig. 16. Fig. 17.
Plaster-casting in General
Of course when you separate the parts of the mould now you will
have a perfect cast of your model. It will have a thin ridge running
around it where the mould was joined, but that is easily rubbed off
with sand-paper.
In a mould made from a hand you proceed in about the same way.
The great thing is to find the dividing line in the model; that is, the
place where the parts of the mould ought to join. In the egg it is easy
enough, for you can divide it into two equal parts; but you take a
hand, and you have to make the line around each finger just where it
is broadest (Fig. 19), and build the clay up to that line. The wrist-hole
in a hand-mould makes a good hole to pour the plaster in (Fig. 20),
and, after all, a hand is easy to make.
These simple directions should make it easy for the amateur
modeller to acquire the first principles of the art. There are several
good compositions in which the young craftsman can work besides
plaster of Paris, such as “Kiln Cement,” “Carton-pierre,” “Papier-
maché,” “Plaster Compounds,” “Artificial Marble,” and “Concrete.”