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TRANSBOUNDARY WATER RESOURCES
IN AFGHANISTAN
TRANSBOUNDARY
WATER
RESOURCES
IN AFGHANISTAN
Climate Change and Land-Use
Implications
N. Eqrar University of Kabul, Kabul, Afghanistan L. Sinfield US Navy, San Diego, CA, United States
P. McNamara University of Nebraska at Omaha, A.K. Stewart St. Lawrence University, Canton,
Omaha, NE, United States NY, United States
ix
About the Authors
xi
xii ABOUT THE AUTHORS
palace, he was able to foster and maintain professional relations with government, commu-
nity, and political leaders across Afghanistan and with the representatives of the international
community in Kabul.
Mr. Ahmadzai’s areas of specialty are Afghan governance, Afghan hydropolitics, tribal
dynamics, and their impacts on the public and their relationship with the government as an
institution providing public services based on appropriate public policies. Other specialty
areas of Mr. Ahmadzai are Afghanistan–Pakistan relations, U.S. involvement in Afghanistan,
and regional security in South-Central Asia.
Mr. Ahmadzai has written op-eds and articles for the BBC, CNN, and Omaha World-Herald,
and a number of papers on various political issues concerning Afghanistan, the United States,
and the region of South-Central Asia. He is also a regular contributor/commentator on BBC
Pashto and Dari radio programs and the Voice of America (VOA) Pashto and Dari services on
various social, political, and current affairs regarding Afghanistan and the U.S.A.
Professor Naim Eqrar has held teaching positions for
more than 20 years in the Department of Geology of the
Faculty of Geosciences, University of Kabul as a Dean,
Head of the Department of Geology, and Professor of Water
Resources. He has developed several course materials for
a national training of experts for the national and interna-
tional agencies at various levels and supervised over 50
training courses. Professor Eqrar has recently (2010-2015)
developed his doctoral dissertation on the Hydrogeology
and Hydrochemistry of Kabul City at Bonn University-
Germany to the final stage and will defend his dissertation
this year (2016). Professor Eqrar has participated as a guest
professor of water resources, as a speaker, presenter, and Afghanistan country represen-
tative at several conferences and workshops abroad, including the USA, Norway, India,
Germany, Belgium, Iran, Nepal, China, Japan, Sri Lanka, Russia, and the Czech Republic.
Professor Eqrar has published a large number of scientific reports, journal articles, and
conference papers. He has been an editorial board member of five national journals and a
technical reviewer for over 10 scientific papers. He has an extensive teaching experience
in the fields of hydrology, hydrogeology, water resources, and hydrochemistry, particu-
larly concerning water resources of the area of Afghanistan. Professor Eqrar is a member
of the Supreme Council of the Water and Land of Afghanistan (SCoWLA), a member of the
National Hydrological Committee of Afghanistan (NHCA), a member of the steering com-
mittee of the Small Grand Program (SGP) OP6 Country Program Strategy Development of
UNDP, and a member of the Strengthening the Resilience of Rural Livelihood Options of
Climate Change Projects for Afghan Communities, promoted by UNDP/MAIL.
ABOUT THE AUTHORS xiii
Patrick McNamara serves as Director of International
Studies at the University of Nebraska Omaha. His exper-
tise is in facilitating multi-party stakeholder processes, with
a growing focus on the intersection between public policy
and natural-resources management. Dr. McNamara has been
a Fulbright-Nehru Senior Scholar in India studying water
conflict, a scholar-in-residence at the International Water
Management Institute in Sri Lanka, a participant in the
Nebraska Water Leaders Academy, and most recently with
Dr. Shroder and Mr. Ahmadzai, Dr. McNamara is helping to
facilitate an ongoing transboundary water-cooperation proj-
ect in Afghanistan, Tajikistan, and Pakistan that is funded by
the U.S. Institute of Peace, and the Lounsbery Foundation
from Washington, D.C.
Mr. Len Sinfield has over 30 years of experience working
as a hydrogeologist and is currently a water compliance man-
ager with the U.S. Navy in San Diego, California. He worked
as a civilian with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers on water-
development projects throughout southern Afghanistan in
2012 and early 2013, with an emphasis on developing water
sources for the City of Kandahar along with Afghan govern-
mental partners.
Dr. Alexander K. Stewart, U.S. Army (retired), is a vet-
eran of the Cold War and three foreign wars; most re-
cently (2009), he spent a year as a soldier-geologist with the
Texas Agricultural Development Team (143rd Long-Range
Surveillance Detachment, 36th Infantry and 82nd Airborne
Divisions) in Afghanistan. His time with this unique coun-
terinsurgency team provided the opportunity to help the
people of Afghanistan, not by means of his military train-
ing, but through his civilian skills as a professor and scien-
tist. It was during his many dam-assessment missions in
Afghanistan that Dr. Stewart became interested in water-
resources in the region. Dr. Stewart is currently an Associate
Professor of Geology at St. Lawrence University in Canton,
New York State.
Foreword to Transboundary Water
Resources in Afghanistan
One of the most urgent challenges of the intertwined with Afghanistan’s develop-
21st century is to ensure sustainable food and ment and that of its downstream neighbors.
water security in the face of population and in- Importantly, all these countries have arid and
come increases, a changing climate, and grow- semi-arid climates, and depend heavily on
ing demands for scarce water resources. This irrigated agriculture for their food security.
enormous challenge, which has significant Afghanistan and its neighbors irrigate over
political, environmental, social and economic 38 million hectares of land, almost twice as
implications, plays itself out in different ways much as is irrigated in all of the United States
in different contexts. and constituting in some of these countries
In the almost 150 countries whose rivers, as much as 80% or 90% of the land avail-
lakes and/or aquifers cross international able for agricultural production. In a region
boundaries, addressing this challenge re- where food, water, and energy supplies are
quires effective transboundary water man- already vulnerable and subject to increasing
agement, especially when these water bodies pressures from political and social conflicts,
constitute the major or only source of renew- population growth, and climate change, the
able water. In such contexts, no one country rivers that originate in Afghanistan have a
can fully control its water resources, and major impact on the water, food, and energy
policy makers need to work through interna- security of their neighbors downstream. And
tional cooperation and transboundary water while Afghanistan’s water resources are at
agreements. To do so successfully, they need present relatively underdeveloped, over time
to understand the intricacies of the hydro- the country will inevitably need to make a
logical interrelationships among countries. greater use of its waters, with significant
They need to be able to analyze the way in downstream impacts.
which dams and irrigation projects in up- Policy makers in Afghanistan and in the
stream countries impact water availability in region require a broad understanding of the
downstream countries, and how that might hydrological interconnections of the region’s
affect their ability to attain water, food, and shared water resources to use and manage
energy security. They also need to be aware them successfully to meet their development
of the impacts that climate change, popula- goals. The success of negotiations between
tion growth, and other factors might have on countries in the region over the allocation
future supply and demand for water. of shared water resources and their use for
This is clearly the situation in Afghanistan irrigation, flood/drought management and
and the Southwest Asian countries that energy generation will require increasing the
surround it: Pakistan, Iran, Uzbekistan, capacity of decision-makers in Afghanistan
Turkmenistan, and Tajikistan. A map of the and the region to understand and analyze the
Amu Darya, Kabul, Helmand, Harirud, hydrology of Afghanistan and its neighbor-
and Murghab river basins shows how the ing countries and the management of these
waters that emanate from Afghanistan are shared water resources.
xv
xvi FOREWORD TO TRANSBOUNDARY WATER RESOURCES IN AFGHANISTAN
This is why Transboundary Water Resources brought together in one volume his exten-
in Afghanistan, by John Shroder and Sher Jan sive knowledge and experience of the water
Ahmadzai, fills an important niche. By pro- resources of the region, as well as the views
viding a comprehensive and science-based and perspectives of various other special-
view of the interconnected water resources ists in the field. By helping policy makers in
of Afghanistan and its neighbors, the book this critically important region to advance
will equip policy makers and technical advi- water and food security, the book is a signif-
sors in the region with the tools they need icant contribution to the work and mission
to develop effective policies and interact co- of the Robert B. Daugherty Water for Food
operatively with the countries that share its Institute at the University of Nebraska,
water resources. The book provides a solid where Shroder and chapter author Patrick
introduction to the physical characteristics McNamara are Faculty Fellows. The insti-
of water, both in general and specifically in tute was established in 2010 to bring the
Afghanistan and its neighboring countries, best of the University’s expertise in water
as well as in-depth discussion of water man- and food to address the challenges of im-
agement issues in Central and South Asia proving water and food security across the
and a look at the future of water manage- globe. Working with Faculty Fellows like
ment in the region. The book also includes Shroder and McNamara and a global net-
chapters on such vital subjects as the charac- work of partners, our mission is to have
teristics and implications of climate change, a lasting and significant impact on food
hydrological data collection, and interna- and water security through research, en-
tional water law. gagement, communication, and education
John Shroder, Emeritus Professor of programs.
Geography and Geology at the University
of Nebraska at Omaha, has dedicated his Roberto L. Lenton
academic career to studying and analyzing Founding Executive Director
transboundary water negotiation issues Robert B. Daugherty Water for Food
between Afghanistan and Pakistan, and has Institute at the University of Nebraska
Preface
The 21st century is generally regarded by now we know this, and can better predict the
knowledgeable scientific and intelligence an- future, rather than allowing such an event of
alysts as a century of looming water issues disappearing water to be as much of a sur-
because of worldwide diminution of access prise as it was to the rulers in antiquity, when
to that essential resource as a result of bur- clearly they thought their gods must have
geoning human populations and resultant deserted them as the rains stopped and the
climate change. Afghanistan is at the top waters dried up. Of course, it is possible to
of the watershed, or the place from where live in a 9th-century fantasy world of antiq-
several major rivers (Amu Darya, Kabul, uity as many of the Taliban and ISIS jihadis
Helmand, Harirud, and Murghab rivers), would love to try to do as they promote their
emanate from their headwaters. These riv- particular warped barbarism, but the alterna-
ers flow over the international borders into tive in the modern world is the use of good
the surrounding countries in the north into science to try to overcome human-caused
Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, and Turkmenistan, in difficulties, rather than give in to some sup-
the northwest into Iran and Turkmenistan, posed “will of God.”
in the southwest into Iran, and in the south- In the situations outlined in this book,
east and east into Pakistan. These rivers have learning about the many variables in Central
been the foundations of millennia of human and Southwest Asia that affect, deliver, and
development in Asia. control water in all its forms and conditions,
In the ever-evolving world of international including human machinations, would seem
water law, it has been recognized in recent to have a high benefit to those who indulge
years that the lowland countries of the world in calculating all of its possible variations. It
were the places where humankind first be- is obvious that the study and understand-
gan its earliest irrigation schemes thousands ing of water delivery in Afghanistan and
of years ago. This resulted in the develop- its neighboring countries of Pakistan, Iran,
ment of extensive civilizations and expand- Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan
ing human populations in the lowlands, have much to recommend them. This will
who came to depend upon regular delivery help to bring up the capacity levels of under-
of waters unhindered and undammed from standings in the government and among ac-
the undeveloped uplands of places such as ademic water cognoscenti in Afghanistan to
Afghanistan. head off any possible confrontations later on
The importance of water in the modern with surrounding countries who may try to
or ancient worlds cannot be overstressed; take issue with Afghanistan on its use of its
if enough of the treasured resource was not waters. Local water law is always made by
available back in antiquity, then that partic- acquiescent governments who seek reciproc-
ular portion of civilization must ultimately ity when it is convenient to them, but ade-
collapse. Such has happened many times quate forewarning of coming changes does
before (Fagan, 2008; and many others). But help to protect against less desired climatic
xvii
xviii PREFACE
outcomes, and can influence water legalities This means that not only is water an unusual
in the international eye. Training of Afghan substance essential to life, but its core uses
government officials and bringing them up to to humanity and all other life transcend sim-
international levels of hydro-understanding plistic understandings so that great analyt-
will enable them to profit in any sort of water ical expertise must be applied to manage it
treaty negotiations with hydro-experts from properly. Because all too many people can
other countries as they all negotiate the in- take water for granted, and quite misunder-
ternational distributions of water allocations stand some of its apparently mysterious and
and seek additional funding to build dams diverse attributes, they can be rather sur-
and irrigation infrastructures. prised when the water somehow diminishes
Recently, much has been made of riv- or disappears. One of the purposes of this
ers that dry up before they reach the sea book is to explain some of these mysteries of
because of human withdrawals upstream water in Central and Southwest Asia so that
(neo-arheism) (Falkenmark and Lannerstad, no one in government who has been pay-
2005; Lannerstad, 2002; L’vovich and White, ing attention will have to wonder too much
1990; Meybeck, 2003). In fact, however, all of about what is happening to the hydrologic
the large rivers (Kabul, Helmand, and Amu character of their region.
Darya) originating in Afghanistan have been Building hydro-capacity in any region is
drying up repeatedly as a result of overuse, thus an issue of education; teaching about the
likely coupled with climate change before they basic physics and chemistry of this vital H2O
reach their historical destination. These facts substance, even while the basic geoscience
are the strongest evidence possible that water (surfical physical geography and hydrology
issues in Afghanistan are most serious and of rivers, coupled with the hydrogeology of
serve as a strong harbinger of things to come water underground) is added in to give an
in Central and South Asia, as well as many essential background context. This is all the
other semiarid and arid areas of the world. basic science, which is not all that complex;
Because of this forecast of such serious prob- it is just that there can be a great deal of it, or
lems in a world of coming climate change, even nearly an overwhelming amount, and
study of these aspects of water in Central and people may be loath to take on understand-
South Asia is a highly valuable exercise. ing of too much of this information lest they
The study of water in all its forms runs feel that they do not need to understand all
the gamut from the stark physics of an un- of it. Then because so much cultural or so-
usual material that behaves quite differently ciological baggage concerning water also ex-
from almost all other compounds in nature ists in any given society to surmount as well,
(expanding when cold, decreasing its den- the amount of information required can feel
sity when solid, etc.), and is so essential to fairly overwhelming. Nonetheless, because
life on this planet. This critical necessity ex- this information is so essential to wise man-
tends out to exert control on the bewildering agement of this critical resource, this book is
plethora of all the different levels of water designed to serve as a foundation document
delivery and usage for humans. Everyone to assist water-cognizant agents in Central
has some little understanding of water in and Southwest Asia.
their own experience with the material, but Many people in Afghanistan now rec-
few can understand all of its attributes un- ognize that most of the illiterate Taliban
less they study the character of water and the insurgency against their government does
physical and human manipulations thereof. not know that the lowland neighbors who
PREFACE xix
support the insurgency actually are most in- References
terested in unrestricted access to the water
Eliasson, J., 2015. The rising pressure of global water
that comes from Afghanistan. Keeping that shortages. Nature 517 (7532), 6.
water under-utilized in an under-developed Fagan, B., 2008. The Great Warming: Climate Change
Afghanistan is thus obviously of advantage and the Rise and Fall of Civilizations. Bloomsbury
to the neighboring countries. For lowland Press, New York.
Falkenmark, M., Lannerstad, M., 2005. Consumptive
countries to foreclose on the rights of up-
water use to feed humanity—curing a blind spot.
land countries to also develop is obviously Hydrol. Earth Syst. Sci. 9, 15–28.
not fair. Some solutions to this problem are Lannerstad, M., 2002. Consumptive Water Use Feeds
water-capacity building in Afghanistan so
the World and Makes Rivers Run Dry, MSc Thesis.
that the government officials will compre- Royal Instutue of technology (KTH), Sweden,
Stockholm.
hend the situation and be more able to deal
L’vovich, M.I., White, G.F., 1990. Use and transforma-
with hydro-issues more effectively in future. tions of terrestrial water systems. In: Turner, B.L. II
The age of hydro-diplomacy (Eliasson, 2015) (Eds.), The Earth as Transformed by Human Action:
is now firmly upon us, and it is seen as an Global and Regional Changes in the Biosphere Over
essential aspect of the human condition as the Past 300 Years. Cambridge University Press,
Cambridge.
the rising pressures of global water short-
Meybeck, M., 2003. Global analysis of river systems:
ages loom largely everywhere, but especially from Earth system controls to Anthropocene syn-
in Central and Southwest Asia. dromes. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. Lond. B 358, 1935–1955.
Introduction
xxi
P A R T I
INTRODUCTION
TO PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
OF WATER
1 Characteristics of the Regional Hydrological Cycle 3
2 Hydrogeography (Drainage Basins and Rivers) of Afghanistan
and Neighboring Countries 23
3 Ground-Water Geology of Afghanistan 41
4 Development of Water Resources in the Kabul River Basin 91
5 H2O Hazards, Risks, and Disasters in Afghanistan and Surrounding
Countries 121
6 Characteristics and Implications of Climate Change in Afghanistan
and Surrounding Regions 145
The focus of this work is on the water that arises in the mountains of Afghanistan and
flows more or less radially outward across the borders of Afghanistan and into the neighbor-
ing countries of Pakistan, Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan. China also borders
Afghanistan in the far northeast, but no water is transmitted across this border, so that area
is not included. Because Afghanistan is the center of our focus and the pivot point of our
expertise, we provide the most information about transboundary water deriving from that
country. By necessity, however, some discussion of the hydrological problems of the neigh-
boring countries must be included as well. Less important then, for the neighboring countries
bordering Afghanistan, is any great detail about their hydrological situation, because such is
neither directly relevant nor deeply bedded in our expertise. Instead the discussions herein
can serve as a basis for more advanced, or detailed assessments of the water in bordering
countries.
The result of the focus being described here is that in any exposition of transboundary
waters, the hydrological geography and geology of the source region provides an essential
set of attributes upon which to focus. Thus the energy sources that run the hydrological cycle
2 I. INTRODUCTION TO PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF WATER
are relevant, as are the processes that move gaseous, liquid, and solid H2O between locations.
The basic principles and characteristics of the regional hydrological cycle must figure in the
initial discussion, which also includes the regional and local climate controls. Aspects such as
the winds that bring precipitation-bearing storms are essential, as are discussions of the snow
and ice in the mountains, which later melt seasonally or, after much delay as glacier storage,
also melt to eventually become river water downstream. On hillsides, the water runs off and
initiates the soil-destroying sheet and gulley erosion that is so detrimental to long-term agri-
cultural productivity and fills up essential water impoundments with sediment so that water
availability for irrigation is reduced, and hydroelectric power generation is curtailed. Finally,
the configuration of the drainage basins and the major surface rivers is essential to compre-
hend the main aspects of water availability.
Hidden below the ground surface, of course, are all the unusual aspects of underground
water, which, because it has been hidden from view for so long everywhere in the world,
tends to be poorly understood and improperly used or under-utilized. Nonetheless, in areas
where the environment has long been grossly abused by the hand of man—and Afghanistan
is known as emblematic of such a place—great over-utilization or contamination of this vital
resource can become a severe problem. In fact, as the climate of the world changes, warming
and drying in Central and Southwest Asia, these problems will only get worse, so it is essen-
tial for agents of the governments of the region to understand these issues and attempt to seek
solutions where possible. In addition, the hazards, risks, and disasters associated with all the
forms of H2O in action in Central and Southwest Asia are critical to understand as well, par-
ticularly because some of the associated hazard problems are among the worst in the world.
Water, of course, constitutes one of the chief natural hazards at work, mainly in the cases of
either too much or too little of the compound so that flood and drought disasters are greatly
feared and little understood in Afghanistan or throughout the region.
Finally, various aspects of climate change have become ever more obvious to many people
of the world as mega-droughts and mega-storms rage across the planet. Among the high
mountain water towers of Asia, more and more recognition of glaciers wasting away, increas-
ing meltwater lakes in breakout floods, formerly dependable perennial rivers drying up in
certain seasons, increasing dust storms—all appear to be short-term evidence akin to weather
variability that might be harbingers of the new realities of common coming climate change.
This book is, at least in part, an attempt to bring recognition to the new problems, and by
exposing them to greater light, perhaps to help alleviate some societal problems.
C H A P T E R
1
Characteristics of the Regional
Hydrological Cycle
J. Shroder
University of Nebraska at Omaha, Omaha, NE, United States
O U T L I N E
Abstract
The hydrological cycle in Central and Southwest Asia, of course, operates essentially the same as it does in
the rest of the world, but it does have regional variations in character and timing of its phases, energy sources,
winds, distributions, climate and topographic influences, and other controlling factors that need to be un-
derstood. The high mountains of the region serve as the water-tower catchments for the elusive moisture
that passes over the dry lowlands, but fortunately for the people who live there, that moisture precipitates
orographically in the mountains above them. Not so fortunately, however, the common devegetation and soil
erosion that also occur so commonly in the region, end up despoiling the surficial environments and reducing
water infiltration into the surficial soils so that the runoff is accelerated into flashfloods and is thereby wasted.
In any case, multiple drainage basins have resulted, the development and use of which are the focus of
this book.
Keywords: Water physics, H2O phases, Precipitation, Climate controls, Mountain topography, Glaciers,
Devegetation, Rapid runoff, Liquid and solid flow, Drainage systems
Transboundary Water Resources in Afghanistan 3 Copyright © 2016 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-801886-6.00001-X
4 1. Characteristics of the Regional Hydrological Cycle
1.1 INTRODUCTION
Water in Central and Southwest Asia is such a precious resource in the dominantly semi-
arid and arid environments in which people live in the region that this book is designed to
answer a number of essential questions. First and foremost, of course, is a basic exposition of
the science behind this aqueous resource before we investigate the human aspects of water
management in the region. Thus in this case, our intent is to present the basic facts about how
hydrological cycles (Fig. 1.1; in multiple languages) work in general, and progressively work
into the more arcane details of local water situations in the region.
The basic physics of the system H2O that everyone knows more or less is that the liquid
phase is water, the solid phase is frozen ice, and the gaseous phase is water vapor (Fig. 1.2).
The basic principles of the hydrological cycle are that these different aspects or phases of
the H2O system cycle endlessly back and forth to the many different locations in the oceans,
atmosphere, glaciers, soil moisture, freshwater and salt lakes, and underground water. The
processes that move the H2O between its many locations include:
• evaporation (liquid water to water vapor);
• precipitation (vapor phase to liquid rain, mixed solid and liquid sleet, solid snow);
• infiltration (water movement down into soil porosity and cracks in rock);
• transpiration (liquid water converted to vapor and emitted from plants);
• liquid flow (water currents, floods);
• solid flow and fracture (long-term deformation of glacier ice under gravity pressure);
• sublimation (solid ice conversion to vapor phase); and
• ablation (solid ice conversion to liquid and vapor phases).
The energy sources that cause the phase transformations between solid, liquid, and gas are
the radiation from the sun, the rotation of the Earth in space, the winds of the Earth, and the
gravitational attraction of the water mass to the Earth. As these phase changes occur back and
forth between the three types, some of the energy of the system is locked up inside the differ-
ent phases and it can come back out as the latent heat of condensation/vaporization (water
vapor condenses to liquid water, or water to gas, which equals about 2257 kJ/kg, or 600 cal of
heat energy), and the latent heat of fusion/freezing (solid ice melts to liquid water, or water
freezes to ice, which equals about 335 kJ/kg, or 80 cal). In general these energy conversions
can be ignored unless calculations are needed to more precisely understand the absorption
and release of these energies in understanding phase transformations as important aspects of
climate change and other such relevant aspects. These heat energies can drive other parts of
the system to affect the temperature-controlled winds, for example.
Most of the water of the Earth is visibly in the oceans of the world, where some 96.5% is
held (Fig. 1.3), and only 2.5% of the total amount of water on the planet is freshwater. Of that
total amount of freshwater available for humans and other life to utilize, glaciers hold about
69% of the total, water underground holds about 30%, and that leaves only about 1.2% as
surface water in rivers and lakes. If you then count up how that small 1.2% is distributed,
(A)
(B)
FIG. 1.1 The hydrologic (water) cycle of the world (A) in English (from US Geological Survey on-line source
http://water.usgs.gov/edu/graphics/watercyclesummary.jpg (accessed 15.02.15)); (B) in Farsi;
(Continued)
(C)
(D)
FIG. 1.1, CONT’D (C) in Pashto; (D) in Urdu; and
(E)
FIG. 1.1, CONT’D (E) in Russian.
you can see that again about 69% of it is in underground ice, lakes have about 30% of it, and
rivers have only about 0.5% of the remainder, along with smaller amounts in the soils, the
atmosphere, swamps, and living things. No wonder water is so precious!
The hydrological cycle in Central and Southwest Asia receives the greater part of its
moisture dominantly from storms that originate in the Atlantic Ocean, the Mediterranean
Sea, or from the Indian Ocean (Fig. 1.4). The wind sources that import these storms into the
region are:
• westerly winds that blow mainly in winter from the Atlantic and Mediterranean;
• monsoon winds that blow from the south in summer from the Arabian Sea and Indian
Ocean;
• the wind of 120 days (badi sado bist roz) blows out of Central Asia in summer from the
north and west into Afghanistan and loops south and southeast into the low pressures of
the monsoon that are dominantly along the border with Pakistan (Fig. 1.4A);
• katabatic winds—cold air drainage blows down from the Tibetan Plateau and other high-
altitude mountain areas of the Hindu Kush mountains (Fig. 1.5); and
• anabatic wind—hot air rises up from lowland deserts that abound all around Afghanistan
(Fig. 1.5).
The natural water supplies of any country are generally that which comes from the
sky, either on an annual basis to produce river runoff, or the portion that is stored under-
ground. The underground water is commonly derived from precipitation that has fallen,
infiltrates through the soil and downward, where it is held underground, perhaps for a
very long time. Thus in order to understand the watersheds and their importance in arid
No one who has not visited Canvey would believe that so lonely and
out-of-the-world a spot could exist within thirty miles of London. Just
as we sometimes find, within half-a-dozen paces of a great central
city thoroughfare, where the black and pursuing streams of
passengers who throng its pavements never cease to flow, and the
roar of traffic is never still, some silent and unsuspected alley or
court into which no stranger turns aside, and where any sound but
that of a slinking footstep is seldom heard,—so, bordering the great
world-thoroughfare of the Thames, is to be found a spot where life
seems stagnant, and where scarcely one of the thousands who pass
within a stone’s throw has ever set foot.
Where the Thames swings round within sight of the sea, there lies,
well out of the sweep of the current, a pear-shaped island, some six
miles long and three miles broad, which is known as Canvey.
Three hundred years ago it was practically uninhabitable, for at
high tide the marshes were flooded by the sea, and it was not until
1623 that James I. invited a Dutchman named Joas Croppenburg
and his friends to settle there, offering them a third for themselves if
they could reclaim the island from the sea. This offer the enterprising
Dutchman accepted, and immediately set to work to build a sea-wall,
which so effectually protects the low-lying marsh-land, that, standing
inside it, one seems to be at a lower level than the water, and can
see only the topmost spars and sails of the apparently bodiless
barges and boats which glide ghost-like by.
But the most noticeable features in the scenery of Canvey are the
evil-looking dynamite hulks which lie scowling on the water like huge
black and red-barred coffins. Upwards of a dozen of these nests of
devilry are moored off the island, and they are the first objects to
catch the eye as one looks out from the sea wall.
In view of the fact that the position of Canvey in regard to one of
the greatest water highways in the world is like that of a house which
lies only a few yards back from a main road, one wonders at first that
such a locality should have been selected as the storage place of so
vast a quantity of a deadly explosive. That it was so selected only
after the matter had received the most careful and serious
consideration of the authorities is certain; and though very nearly the
whole of the shipping which enters the Thames must necessarily
pass almost within hail of the island, the spot is so remote and out of
the world that it is doubtful if any safer or securer place could have
been found.
The dynamite magazines consist, as the name indicates, of the
dismantled hulks of old merchant vessels, which, though long past
active service, are still water-tight. One man only is in charge of each
hulk, which he is not supposed to leave, everything that he needs
being obtained for him by the boatman, whose sole duty it is to fetch
and carry for the hulk-keepers.
Not only is a hulk-keeper who happens to be married forbidden to
have his children with him, but even the presence of his wife is
disallowed, his instructions being that no one but himself is under
any circumstances to come on board.
These rules are not, however, very rigidly complied with. A hulk-
keeper is only human, and as his life is lonely it often happens that
when visitors row out to the ship he is by no means displeased to
see them, and half-a-crown will frequently procure admittance, not
only to his own quarters, but to the hold where the explosive itself is
stored in small oblong wooden boxes, each containing fifty pounds.
Nor are instances unknown where the solitude of a married hulk-
keeper’s life has been cheered by the presence of his wife, the good
lady joining her husband immediately after an inspection and
remaining with him until such time as another visit may be looked for.
Even if the fact of her presence on board becomes known on the
island the matter is considered as nobody’s business but the
inspector’s, and the love of an officer of the Crown is not so great
among watermen and villagers as to lead them to go out of their way
to assist him in the execution of his duty.
Had I not had reason to suppose that Mullen was somewhere in
the neighbourhood of Southend, the possibility of his being on one of
these hulks would never have occurred to me. But the more I
thought of it the more I was impressed with the facilities which such
a place afforded for a fugitive to lie in hiding, and I promptly decided
that before I dismissed the hulks from my consideration I must first
satisfy myself that the man I was looking for was on none of them.
A point which I did not lose sight of was that it was quite possible
for a hulk-keeper who was taciturn by nature, and not prone to
encourage gossip, to remain in entire ignorance of what was taking
place throughout the country, and of the reward which had been
offered for the apprehension of Captain Shannon. In fact there is at
this moment in charge of one of the hulks off Canvey a man who is
never known to go ashore, to receive visitors, or to enter into
conversation. Whether he is unable to read I cannot say, but at all
events he never asks for a newspaper, so that it is conceivable that
he may not know—happy man!—whether the Conservatives or
Liberals are in power, or whether England is ruled by Queen Victoria
or by Edward the Seventh.
The first thing to be done was to make out a list of the dynamite
hulks—just as I had made a list of the boats off Southend—and then
to take the vessels one by one and satisfy myself that no one was
there in hiding. I need not more fully describe the details of the
various inquiries than to say that, in order to avoid attracting
attention, they were made as at Southend by the waterman Quickly.
Most of the hulks are moored in the creek within sight of Hole
Haven, where the principal inn of the island is situated, and all these
we were soon able to dismiss from our calculation. But there was
one hulk, the “Cuban Queen,” lying, not in the shelter of the creek,
but in a much more lonely spot directly off Canvey, in regard to which
I was not able to come to a conclusion. It lay in deeper water, nearly
a mile out, and no one seemed to know much about the man in
charge except that he was named Hughes and was married. He very
rarely came on shore, but when he did so, returned immediately to
his ship without speaking to anybody, and it was generally believed
on the island that he often had his wife with him. That he had some
one,—wife or otherwise,—on board I soon satisfied myself, and that
by very simple means.
The man whose duty it was to wait upon the hulk-keepers was, I
found, a methodical sort of fellow and kept a memorandum book in
which he wrote down the different articles he was instructed to
obtain. This book Quickly managed to get hold of for me, and on
looking over it I saw that from a certain time,—dating some months
back,—the supply of provisions ordered by Hughes had doubled in
quantity. This might, of course, be due to the fact that his wife was on
board; and, indeed, Quickly reported that the hulk attendant had
remarked to him, “Hughes have got his old woman on the ‘Cuban
Queen.’ I see her a-rowing about one night in the dinghy.” But I had
made another and much more significant discovery when looking
over the book,—a discovery which the presence of Hughes’ wife did
not altogether explain. This was that not only had the quantity of food
supplied to Hughes been largely increased, but that the quality too
was vastly superior.
The man in attendance on the hulk had probably failed to notice
this fact, and I did not deem it advisable to arouse his suspicion by
making further inquiries. But I at once decided that before I put
against the name of the “Cuban Queen” the little tick which signified
that I might henceforth dismiss it from consideration, I should have to
make the personal acquaintance of “Mrs. Hughes.”
CHAPTER IX
I TAKE UP MY QUARTERS AT CANVEY