FABRIC GEOMETRICAL PROPERTIES

1.THREAD COUNT/ THREAD DENSITY:

Thread count is basically the number of threads in one square inch. For example a thread
count of 260 means a weave of 140 vertical threads per square inch, called the warp, and 120
horizontal threads, called the weft. Pick Glass is a m agni fyi ng gl ass for com pari ng
and counti ng yarns in fabri cs.

2. FABRIC THICKNESS TESTER

Determination of thickness of fabric samples is usually carried out with the help of a
precision thickness gauge. In this equipment, the fabric whose thickness is to be determined is
kept on a flat anvil and a circular pressure foot is pressed on to it from the top under a standard
fixed load. The Dial Indicator directly gives the Thickness in mm.
The principle of measurement of fabric thickness is based on “The precise measurement of the
distance between two plane parallel plates separated by the cloth when a known pressure is
applied and maintained on the plates.”

Details of the Main Unit of Fabric Thickness Tester

1. Anvil.
2. Circular Pressure Foot (Dia. 10 mm).
3. Zero Setting Dial Gauge (Bezel).
4. Knob for zero setting of the Dial Gauge.
5. Dead Weight (As Per Standards).
6. Lifting Lever.
7. Grub Screw for Calibration.
8. Circular Pressure Foot (Dia. 25 mm).

Feature of Fabric Thickness Tester

1. Specialized equipment to determine the thickness of fabrics.

2. Latest model with modern aesthetics.
3. Maximum capacity 10mm & accuracy 0. 01mm.
4. Portable & handy to carry anywhere.
 5. Smooth precision-engineered components for accurate results.
6. Analog dial for measuring thickness in millimetres.
7. Supplied with two pressure feet of different size for different type of fabrics.
8. A standard Dead weight is provided with the instruments for accurate result.
9. Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.

Working Procedure of Fabric Thickness Tester

• The fabric sample that is to be measured is kept on an anvil.

• The press foot is gently lowered on to the specimen.
• The reading is taken to get the thickness of the specimen.
• The flat circular indenter of the micrometer exerts the specified pressure on the fabric
sample.
• The above procedure is repeated to obtain the values of thickness at least at 3 different
locations.
• The mean value of all the readings of thickness determined to the nearest 0.01m is
calculated and the result is the average thickness of the sample under test.

3.FABRIC GSM:
The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a
textile engineer for understanding and production of fabric. ‘GSM’ means ‘Gram per
square meter’ that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. By this we can
compare the fabrics in unit area which is heavier and which is lighter.

GSM CUTTER

• The weight of a fabric can be expressed in two ways, either as the ‘weight per unit area’
or the ‘weight per unit length’; the former is self explanatory but the latter requires a
little explanation because the weight of a unit length of fabric will obviously be affected
by its width. In woven fabric, the weight per unit length is usually referred to as the
‘weight per running yard’. It is necessary therefore to know the agreed standard width
upon which the weight per running yard is based. Usually this width depends upon the
width of loom. Before coming the term ‘GSM’ there was another term called ‘lb/100
 yards’. This expression is used by British Standard. For measuring this there are a
template and a quadrant balance. The template area is 1/100 square yards of which each
arm is 1/10 yards in length. For measuring GSM, a GSM cutter is used to cut the fabric
and weight is taken in balance. Both of these measurement and method is equally used
for both woven and knitted fabrics.

• Working Procedure of Measuring GSM of a Fabric:

1. For Measuring GSM, fabric sample is cut by GSM cutter
2. Now weight is taken by electric balance.
3. By this way we get the weight in gram per one square meter fabric.
4. Here GSM of the fabrics by the GSM cutter is obtained by the multiplying the
sample weight with 100.

4.BEESLEY BALANCE: (YARN COUNT )

The count of yarn is defined as a number indicating its weightage. In direct system the count
is the weight of a unit length of yarn for example “Tex” is number of grams in one kilometre
length of yarn, “Denier” is number of grams in 9000 meters of yarn. In indirect systems the
count is the number of units of fixed length of yarn which make a fixed weight for example
‘Cotton’ is number of hanks of yarn in a pound, or ‘Metric’ is number of kilometres of yarn in
one kilogram.

Beasley Balance consists of a light weight beam pivoted on jewel bearings with a hook at one
and a pointer at the other. The beam is initially levelled to bring the pointer against a datum
line. A standard weight is suspended in a notch on the beam arm on the pointer side. A template
is used to cut short lengths of yarn, the length depending upon the count system required. These
short lengths are placed on the hook until the pointer comes against the datum line. The number
of short lengths required to balance the beam gives the count of the yarn.

A template is provided to give lengths of yarn in Metric, Cotton, Linen, Wool Skein, and
Worsted counts. The balance is housed in a sheet metal box having sliding transparent acrylic
doors.
Yarn count The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness.
It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile institute
– “Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of
yarn.”

5. YARN CRIMP:
Crimp is defined as the mean difference between the straightened thread length and the distance
between the ends of the thread while in the cloth, expressed as a percentage. In order to
straighten the thread, tension must be applied, just sufficient to remove all the kinks without
stretching the yarn.
Crimp refers to the amount of bending that is done by thread as it interlaces with the threads
that are lying in the opposite direction of the fabric. Crimp is defined as the ratio of difference
of extended length of yarn taken from original length of fabric to the original length of fabric
.

Extended Length-Original Length

Warp Crimp% = ----------------------------------------- X 100
Original Length
 Extended Length-Original Length
Weft Crimp% = ----------------------------------------- X 100
Original Length

A crimp will normally give values ranging from 0.01 to 0.14 ie. (1% to 14%).
Crimp is related to many aspects of the fabric. It affects the cover, thickness, softness and
hand of the fabric. When it is not balanced it also affects the wear behaviour and balance of
the fabric, because the exposed portions tend to wear at a more rapid rate than the fabric. The
crimp balance is affected by the tensions in the fabric during and after weaving. If the weft is
kept at low tension while the tension in warp directions is high, then there will be
considerable crimp in the weft and very little in the warp.

6. COVER FACTOR:
Fabric cover factor is the ratio of the area covered by the yarns to the whole area of the fabric.
Cover is the degree of evenness of thread spacing. Good cover gives the effect of a uniform
plane surface & it cannot be obtained with hard twisted yarn. In case of woven fabric cover
factor is a number that indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered by warp
and weft threads. Fabric cover factor is the ratio of the area covered by the yarns to the whole
area of the fabric.

Formula:
Warp Cover factor K1= Ends per Inch / √(Warp Count)
Weft Cover factor K2= Picks per Inch / √(Weft Count)
Cloth Cover factor K = K1+K2 – (K1xK2 / 28)

NOTE : WRITE LEFT HAND SIDE

FABRIC GEOMETRICAL PARAMETERS
READINGS FINAL
READING
FABRIC PARAMETERS AVERAGE
T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 &
UNIT
Ends/inch(n1) EPI
Thread count
Picks/inch(n2) PPI
 Warp(N1) Ne
Yarn count
Weft(N2) Ne
Warp(C1) %
Yarn crimp
Weft(C2) %
Warp cover factor (K1)
Weft cover factor (K2)
Cover factor (Kc)
Weight of fabric GSM
Fabric Thickness mm

FABRIC SAMPLE:

BACK OF
FACE OF FABRIC
FABRIC

RIGHT HAND SIDE

AIM : To determine the fabric geometric parameters for the given fabric.

FABRIC DESCRIPTION :