JOHNSON

LITTLE JOHN & BIG JOHN

OPERATORS MANUAL
JOHNSON MFG & SALES INC (920)244-7581
N5499 COUNTY RD E
OGDENSBURG, WI 54962 (920)244-7580-FAX
www.johnsonoutdoorwoodfurnaces.com
Table of Contents
UL Listing Information 1

User Safety Rules 2

Choosing the right components 3-4

Installation 5-8

Wiring Schematic 9

Hook-up options & diagrams 10-12

Purging Lines 13

In-floor Heating 14-15

Domestic Hot Water 16

Firing the Furnace 17

Maintenance 18-23

Freeze Protection 24

Firewood Facts 25

Warranty 26

Registration Back Cover

Have your Outdoor Wood Stove cleaned, adjusted, oiled, and checked over at the end of
each burning season, following these instructions:

 Clean and scrape all ashes from stove

 Clean Flue Pipe
 Clean Door, Gaskets, and adjust door to an air tight fit
 Clean & brush, blow out, and oil all Blowers
 Check Electrical System
 Check Dampers & Cotter Pins
 Clean Y-Strainer
 Coat stove interior with oil
 Drain waste water from bottom of the stove
 Cap Flue from rain water
This procedure is necessary to avoid unforeseen problems, and to keep warranty in
effect.
JOHNSON OUTDOOR WOOD FURNACES USER
SAFETY RULES

 Do not store fuel within the appliance installation

clearances or within the space required for refueling, ash
removal, and other routine maintenance operations,
 Cleaning of the heat exchanger, flue pipe, chimney, and
draft inducer (if used), is especially important at the end
of the heating season to minimize corrosion during the
summer months caused by accumulated ash.
 Operate your back-up heating system (gas, oil, electric)
periodically to ensure it will operated satisfactorily if
needed.
 Do not relocate or bypass any of the safety controls in
your original (gas, oil, electric) heating system.
 The operation of a gas boiler must be verified for
acceptable operation before and after installation of the
add-on appliance by a gas fitter who is recognized by
your regulatory authority.
 Do not set the Johnson Wood Boiler aquastat higher than
180° F or water may boil out of the overflow and cause
damage to the unit.

FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS IN THIS

MANUAL TO AVOID DAMAGE TO THE UNIT
WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY
 How to Choose the Correct Components for Outdoor
Furnace Installation
1) Basic starter items are needed for each outdoor furnace installation: wye strainer,
pump shut-off flange, heat exchanger.
2) Decide if you want only one thermostat to control the temperature in all areas of
your building, or if you prefer to have individual zones in which the temperature
can be controlled separately.
3) If individual heating zones are preferred, then for each zone you must have a
pump, and electric zone valve, a 24 volt thermostat, and a 24 volt transformer.
4) For each zone you have your choice of heating methods: (a) water to air
exchangers, (b) air handlers, (c) kick space heaters, (d) baseboard heaters, (e) in
floor heating, or (f) hydronic unit.

Water to Air Heat Exchangers

For Plenum mount and using an existing force air system, use an exchanger. For large
plenums use more than one exchanger, and step these down. Caution: DO NOT neck
down the plenum.

Air Handlers

This is a complete furnace, an all-in-one. It comes with an exchanger, blower, fan, and
filter; all mounted in an attractive box. Easy to hook up by simply connecting the two
copper lines to the feed and return lines.

Water Baseboard Heaters

Simply mount to wall (outside wall preferred). They come in 2’ increments up to 8’, but
can easily be cut to length. If using these, don’t skimp; it takes a lot of running footage to
heat a house. These will be fed from a zone tank, and again, each zone requires a 24 Volt
thermostat, a 24 Volt transformer, and a pump. DO NOT exceed 75’ of total length in
each zone. Heat radiates from the baseboard on demand. This is an excellent passive
system as no blowers are needed.
In Floor Heating

Pex-Al-Pex pipe (usually ½”) is mounted in the cement floor and/or ceiling joists.
Controls are the same as the water baseboard. This is the ultimate passive system. The
location of each zone is critical, and professional help should be requesting when
planning a system.

Flat Plate Heat Exchangers

These are compact water to water heat exchangers which come in various sizes to meet
your heating needs. They are made of stainless steel and have a variety of uses, such as:
 Hot tubs
 Swimming pools
 Domestic water

Pumps
There are factors used to determine the size of the pump needed:
(a) Size and length of pipe, (b) number of gallons per minute required, (c) height of water
to be pumped, (d) number of buildings to be heated, (e) usage of a manifold.

We offer Grundfos brand pumps that carry a three year warranty. The most commonly
used model is the Super Brute 15-58, but we also carry the UP26-99, and other sizes are
available for your needs. NOTE: Always mount pump in a horizontal position and
always install shutoff valves on each side of the pump. By-pass valves and lines are a
nice addition.

Three
Grundfos Speeds to
Super Brute Help you
1558 adjust the flow
Needed.
Variable Speed
 INSTALLATION
Installation clearance and restrictions

Sides 36” Front 48” Back 36” Top 12”

Inspect monthly to insure that chimney is clear and in good condition. A continuous
air supply is mandatory.

LOCATION

When locating your Johnson, keep in mind the convenience of hauling wood to the
location and the prevailing wind direction (smoke can cause problems). You may
want to check with your insurance company to see what they recommend for distance
from the buildings, as each company varies. Additional consideration may include
any future construction that you may want to heat. NOTE: When placing furnace
downhill from a building being heated, or more then 50’ from a building being
heated; the circulating pump must be mounted on the furnace to insure proper water
flow. Pump size and capabilities need to be determined based on distance and
amount of lift.

FOUNDATION

Place on non-combustible flooring with adequate support. See diagram on page 8 for
more information.

TRENCH

The trench for your lines must be 24” deep and 10” to 12” wide. Place electrical
supply to the bottom of the trench and the water lines on top. NOTE: If lines travel
under a driveway or where heavy equipment will travel, the lines should be buried
4ft. to 5ft. deep. Use pipe insulation.

WIRING

Use electrical wire rated and approved for underground use. All installation must
follow state and local or provincial codes. See wiring schematic on page 12 for more
information.
 UNDERGROUND PIPE

Use 1” Pex-Al-Pex pipe for the lines running into the house. In floor heating systems
should use ½” Pex-Al-Pex within the building. All fittings should be brass Pex
fittings. Fittings require the beveling tool for installation.

PLUMBING

Water supply lines are located at the back of the furnace. The feed line is the bottom
and the return line is the top. Your water line must be marked “Feed” and “Return”
to insure proper hook up to the furnace and exchangers.

Entering the home, cement foundations can be drilled with a large hammer drill and a
1 ½” bit or routed up over the cement foundation and then entered through the sill
plate area. When routing water lines over cement they must be properly insulated and
protected. Once in the home, continue using 1” or ¾” diameter line to finish
plumbing the inside components. NOTE: If entering cold crawl spaces (such as
under a mobile home), water lines must be insulated as well as underground. Water
lines that are not insulated resting on cold surfaces results in extreme heat loss and a
large consumption of wood. Follow the plumbing diagrams in the following pages to
complete hook up in the home.

INSTALLATION

DO NOT connect to an existing heating system unless you are using water to water or
water to air exchanger system. For sample installation, refer to How to Choose the
Correct Components. We recommend that a qualified installer complete the
installation. For further information, contact us or your local dealer.

CONTROLS

An Aquastat is used as a safety limit on the system. It is located on the back of the
furnace, and is set 10°F higher then the fan control Aquastat on the furnace. If the
secondary aquastat reaches the setting it will over ride the room thermostat and turn
on the pump or fan, of the existing furnace to get rid of excess heat.
 INSULATION

We sell an all in one insulation product, featuring low-E wrap insulation with an “R”
rating of 11 for a single wrap. We recommend the five wrap (R value of 55). It
comes ready to lay encased in 5” flexible tile. It is available in many options from
two lines to four lines, in both Pex and Pex-Al and can be order in many lengths.
With its “R” Rating and correct installation you will save on wood consumption.

FILLING WITH WATER

The furnace can either be filled at the furnace through the overflow tube on the roof,
or inside the home via an additional water connection. For simple inside house
connection, splice a ¾” boiler drain valve into the incoming feed line. When water is
needed attach a garden hose from your domestic water to the valve and fill as
required. On the initial filling, air will have to be removed from the lines. To do this,
open valves until water runs out and then close the valves. Air in the lines may cause
pump damage. Watch for plumbing leaks. DO NOT start the pump until the furnace
is full of water. NOTE: Only soft water (not hard) should be used to fill your
furnace. If you do not have soft water, a soft water kit may be purchased from us or
your dealer.
 Setting your Johnson Stove
When pouring a slab to set your Johnson Outdoor Furnace, you should have
a notch formed in the back of the slab for the supply and return lines at the
back of the unit.

The slab should be poured according to the size of the unit being installed.
The leg spacing can be found below, measuring from outside of each foot
on the unit.

The notch at the back measures 2 Ft. X 1 Ft. Slab thickness is 4”.

1’

2’

Little John: 64 ½” W X 48” L

Big John: 64 ½” W X 68” L

You may pour your slab a few inches wider and/or longer if desired.
 Hook Up For Existing Forced Air Furnace
Bleeder valves

Line going to outdoor stove

*If furnace is more than 50’ from house, pump &

Tempering Valve
wyestrainer should be at furnace
Tempered water to

Cold Supply

Hot Supply

From Stove
Existing
water heater

Filter by-pass
Heat
Side Arm Spiral Exchanger
Shut off flanges
Existing
Pump* furnace
Wye Strainer*
 Direct Connection

From open wood furnace system to gas boiler without heat exchanger

Supply to
house Supply from wood
system furnace

Valve
Return s

Strap-on
aquastat

Return

Gas boiler

To aquastat
on boiler

Strap-on aquastat keeps flames off while allowing pumps to circulate. It

also allows gas to come back on if wood furnace supply temperature drops
below a set point.
 Fan Center Relay Wired For Air Conditioning With Gas Furnace (Low Voltage 24V)
Thermostat (Gas)

110V
Transformer

Black White G W Y Red

R
R Brown C
Y
Red G W
W
G Black R Outdoor Air
Conditioning

Thermostat (Wood)
 PURGING LINES ON YOUR SYSTEM
Valve Boiler Drain Valve or fill stove Valve

You may place valves and a drain valve on either the supply or return line in order to purge
(remove) air in your lines. To do this, attach water supply to the drain valve, and shut off the left
valve first. Turn on the water, and allow to run for five minutes or so. After air has been purged
from that side, open the left valve and close the right. Turn on the water again, and again allow
the water to run to remove the air. This boiler drain valve can also be used to fill the furnace
from the inside of the house.
 Return to Stove Supply from Stove

IN-FLOOR
HEATING Pump

FLOW
DIAGRAM Tee Tee

1” Tempering Valve

- +
Return

Cap Valve Valve Valve Valve Pump

Supply
 Installation Guide For Pex-AL Pipe & Fittings
Tools Required: The fitting will 5. If it is necessary to
To install Pex-Al Pipe then slip easily remove the fitting,
you will need the into the pipe release the nut,
following: without damaging remove the split
 Beveling tool
the O-ring. ring and pull the
 Plastic Pipe Cutter fitting off of the
 Adjustable end- pipe. Before
wrench(s) reassembling the
joint, inspect the
Cutting & Joining Pex- split ring and O-
AL: rings and replace
1. Cut the pipe them if necessary.
square. Only a
plastic pipe cutter Bending Pex-Al Pipe
Pex-Al pipe is easy to
should be used. 4. Push the fitting
bend and unlike plastic
Ensure that the fully home in the pipes, retains the shape
cutting blade is in pipe. If necessary, of the bend.
good condition at this point the
and sharp. A fitting can be Crossovers
hacksaw is not rotated in the pipe Pex-Al flexibility allows
recommended. to facilitate you to form crossovers
2. Remove the nut threading onto a by hand without the
need for fittings.
and split ring from valve, tee, etc.
the fitting. Tighten the nut by
hand, plus one full
turn with a
wrench,

3.
Push the nut and
split ring onto the
pipe. Bevel the
inside of the pipe.
 FIRING THE FURNACE

Start with a small fire and add to it as needed. The fire will continue to burn until
operating temperature has been reached. During the initial burn, the water jacket will
sweat for up to two days. This is normal, and this moisture does not indicate a leak.

Establish a routine for the storage of fuel, care of the furnace, and firing techniques.
Do not overfill the furnace with fuel. Make sure you match the amount of wood to
the outside temperature. Only add enough wood to meet the time between fills.
Filling the furnace to the maximum may cause excessive creosote, and this will result
in greater wood consumption. It is better to add small amounts of wood twice a day
than larger amounts once per day. A small intense fire is preferable to a large
smoldering fire to reduce the amount of creosote deposition. When loading, do not
bang wood against furnace end wall or damage may result.

Remove ashes through ash door with shovel as needed. Ash removed should be
stored for five days in a tightly sealed metal container before disposing of.

***CAUTION*** DO NOT leave doors open for long periods when adding wood or
removing ash. This can cause your furnace to overheat.

***CAUTION*** DO NOT use this furnace with an automatic stoker.

 ON GOING MAINTENANCE

 Year Round Maintenance:

Always use a filter system. Always use an oxygen scavenger chemical.

 Daily Maintenance:

Check water level and add water as needed. Check door gasket for a proper seal.
Check for creosote buildup and clean as needed.

 Weekly Maintenance:

Remove ashes as required. Check bypass and chimney for excess creosote and
remove.

 Annual Maintenance:

Perform Spring Clean and Check as outlined on page 23. Clean blowers and
solenoids as outlined on page 24. Test water to make sure there is a proper
amount of oxygen scavenger chemical. If using Antifreeze check to make sure it
is still good.

 Additional Maintenance:

If you DO NOT have antifreeze in your system it must be flushed and drained
every two to three years.
 Maintenance Record

Year Date Water Test Antifreeze (if Drain &

Results applicable) Flush system
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20

Notes:
 JOHNSON MFG & SALES INC.

 Clean and scrape all ashes from stove

 Clean Flue Pipe
 Clean Door, Gaskets, and adjust door to an air tight fit (if necessary)
 Clean, brush, blow out, and oil blowers
 Check electrical system
 Check dampers and cotter pins
 Clean Wyestrainer
 Coat stove interior with oil
 Cap flue from rain water

This procedure is necessary to avoid unforeseen problems and to keep

warranty in effect.

If you have questions, please do not hesitate to consult your owner’s manual, the
above number, or your local dealer.
 Johnson Mfg & Sales
N5499 County Rd E
Ogdensburg, WI 54962
(920)244-7581
Water Treatment Program for Johnson Outdoor Furnaces
The treatment program consists of two chemicals:
Prep Solution 102
And
Water Treatment 101
*Note: Prep 102 should always be used on new furnaces, and is strongly
recommended each time you clean and flush your system. Prep 102 is a cleaner and
metal conditioner, and will clean and condition the interior water jacket to prolong the
life of your furnace. IF YOU HAVE ANTIFREEZE IN YOUR SYSTEM YOU DO
NOT NEED TO DRAIN & FLUSH EVERY TWO YEARS, BUT YOU MUST
TEST THE ANTIFREEZE EVERY YEAR TO MAKE SURE IT IS STILL IN
GOOD CONDITION!
The following instructions should be used for Prep 102:
1. Drain furnace completely by removing the drain plug/boiler drain valve.
2. Place a garden hose at vent/fill tube located on top of furnace. Run water until
clear.
3. Replace drain plug/boiler drain valve, and start running water into the system.
After system has filled half way, add the Prep 102 at the fill tube in the following
amounts: for a new furnace 1 bottle, for used or dirty furnace 2 bottles; then
continue filling the furnace to normal working range.
4. Start the circulating pump, and then do either of the following:
 Hot Process: Start a small fire in the furnace and bring the water
temperature up to 100° or to normal working range. Once the
temperature has been reached, allow the fire to go out and continue to
circulate the water for 4 to 7 hours.
 Cold Process: Let the system circulate for no more than 12 hours.
*Hot Process recommended, but is not mandatory.
5. After using either the hot or cold process, turn off the circulating pump, drain the
furnace completely, open the boiler drain valve, and place the garden hose in the
fill vent on top of the stove and flush the system until the water runs clear. Make
 sure that when you finish and replace the drain plug/boiler valve that you use
pipe compound or Teflon tape on the threads.
Then complete the following steps for the Water Treatment 101:
1. Fill stove with soft water. If not available at your tap, Johnson Mfg & Sales sells
a Softener Solution Kit.
2. Add approximately 1 bottle of Treatment 101 for a Little John or 2 bottles of
Treatment 101 for a Big John. This may vary based on the size of your total
system, and the type of water that you have available to you; you may need more
then this amount.
3. Start the circulating pump and let circulate for a minimum of 2 hours.
4. After one week, take a water sample by pulling the sight tube off and filling the
sample bottle with about a ¼ cup of water (2 ounces or so,) and send the sample
to Johnson Mfg & Sales for testing to determine if you water meets the proper
specifications to reduce corrosion damage to your furnace.
If you do not have antifreeze in your system, you must drain the water and flush the
system every 2-3 years. It must then be refilled with soft water and new treatment
added. If you have antifreeze in your system you must check it every year to make
sure the antifreeze is still good. To check the antifreeze you will need to use the
appropriate tester (one for propylene glycol); we can test this for you. You also will
want to look at the antifreeze to make sure that it is not black or discolored as this is
a sign that your antifreeze has gone bad. Systems that have been overheated will
need to replace their antifreeze, and drain and flush the system, as overheating
causes damage to the antifreeze.

Water must be tested at least annually by sending a water sample to Johnson Mfg &
Sales Inc. You may also purchase a water test kit from us or your local dealer to
test your own water. Many dealers also offer water testing.

YOUR WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER CORROSION, SO IT IS IN YOUR

BEST INTERESTS TO PROTECT YOUR FURNACE AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE
FROM THE EFFECTS OF CORROSION.
 FREEZE PROTECTION

Propylene Glycol has the ability to lower the freezing point of water, therefore
protecting the system in sub-zero climates. These fluids can be added to the water in
a Kitec heating system if freezing is a concern.

Ethylene Glycol has better physical properties than Propylene Glycol, especially at
lower temperatures. However, Propylene Glycol is less toxic and is recommended for
applications involving possible human contact. When using Glycol with potable
water systems some form of isolation should be provided to avoid contamination of
potable water sources (heat exchanger).

Ethylene Glycol solutions should not be used directly in a boiler because of the
danger of chemical corrosion caused by ethylene glycol breakdown on the heating
surface.

If a 50/50 glycol- water mixture is used, the head loss in the pipe should be increased
by 50% for the same flow rate.

The use of auto antifreeze is not permitted. This will cause fouling of metal
components, pump, seal wear, fluid gelation, and reduced heat transfer because of the
silicate present in automobile antifreeze.

If using antifreeze in your system you must check it annually to make sure that your
ratio is adequate. If your antifreeze has been scalded by overheating, or is black or
gelled, your system must be drained, and flushed, and the antifreeze must be replaced.
If not using antifreeze, you must drain the water and flush the system every 2-3 years,
and refill with soft water and new water treatment.

DO NOT USE ANY OTHER ANTIFREEZE EXCEPT BOILER ANTIFREEZE

(ALSO CALLED ANTIFREEZE FOR HYDRONIC HEATING.) DOING SO
WILL AUTOMATICALLY VOID YOUR WARRANTY!
 FIREWOOD FACTS
Measurement of Wood

A standard cord of wood has a volume of 128 cubic feet, and is 4’ H X 4’ W X 8’ L.

Face cords and short cords do not have standard measurements and volumes cannot be
determined. This term should not be used to purchase wood.

Number of Trees Required to Yield One Standard Cord

Diameter of tree
Measured at chest height Deciduous Coniferous
7 15 20
8 11 13
9 8 10
10 5 8
12 4 6
14 3 3.7
16 2 2.5
18 1.5 1.9

Heating Value of Wood

When burning wood it is essential to have the wood as dry as possible in order to produce
more heat per pound of fuel, thereby obtaining a higher heat value. Air dried wood
contains approximately 20% moisture and will yield about 5,800 BTU’s per pound.
Green wood containing approximately 60% moisture will yield only about 4,100 BTU’s
per pound. The heavier the weight of dry wood, the more BTU’s per cord.

Heating Value per Air-Dried Cord in BTU’s

White Oak…..30,600,000 Poplar…..17,260,000

White Elm…..24,500,000
Tamarack…..24,000,000
White Birch…..23,400,000
Black Ash…..22,600,000
Manitoba Maple…..19,300,000
White Pine…..17,100,000
Basswood…..17,000,000
White Cedar…..16,300,000
White Spruce…..16,200,000
Balsam Fir…..15,500,000
LIMITED 12 YEAR PRO-RATED WARRANTY
Johnson Mfg & Sales Inc. herein known as JMSI, warranties the Johnson Furnace to the
original owner against defects in workmanship under normal use for a period of 12
years as per the pro-rated schedule(found by your warranty card) and under the following
conditions. NO OTHER WARRANTY IS EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED!
This warranty excludes all electrical components, such as: fans, baffles, pumps,
aquastats, gauges, relays; as well as heat exchangers, door gaskets, internal combustor
(grate), and the shovel. These items are warrantied for a period of one year by their
specific manufacturers, under normal use, and it does not cover labor or delivery charges.
Any furnace which is determined to be defective in workmanship within the first
two years and is returned to JMSI, which in our judgment show evidence of such defect
will be repaired or replaced (JMSI’s choice), provided the defective part is returned
prepaid to us or to an alternative designated service center. Return transportation and
installation are the responsibility of the customer, and are not covered under warranty.
The Johnson Furnaces are designed to be least susceptible to corrosion. Since
JMSI has no control over the environment and the owner’s maintenance of the product,
responsibility for corrosion control is the sole responsibility of the owner. Corrosion
is not covered under your warranty. See owner’s manual for proper maintenance
instructions, and corrosion prevention methods.
All decisions pertaining to warranty acceptance are the sole responsibility of
JMSI and no other person or representative is authorized to make any warranty decisions.
Your original dated bill of sale is required to receive warranty service. The Johnson
Furnace is not intended to be your only source of heat, and a back-up heating system
must be in place to prevent damages should the Johnson Outdoor Furnace malfunction.
We are not responsible for any damages occurring from failing to have an additional
back-up heat source. JMSI does not warrant any physical damage caused by abuse,
overheating, tampering, alterations, freezing, accidents, negligence, or unauthorized
repairs or work done to the furnace or failure to follow care and maintenance
instructions.
Metal fatigue, metal breakage, or warping of components is not covered under
warranty. If the serial number is altered or removed, the warranty will be void. Factor
authorized filter and hi-limit switch must be installed in plumbing hookup. JMSI is not
responsible for the cost of plumbing, replacement of antifreeze, service call charges, or
any cost other then the replacement part.
IN ORDER TO ACTIVATE YOUR WARRANTY AND PUT IT INTO
EFFECT THE REGISTRATION CARD LOCATED ON THE BACK COVER OF
THE MANUAL MUST BE FILLED OUT COMPLETELY AND RETURNED TO
US. YOU WILL THEN RECEIVE A WARRANTY CONFIRMATION CARD
AND NUMBER, WHICH YOU MUST HAVE TO RECEIVE SERVICE. IF WE
DO NOT HAVE YOUR WARRANTY CARD, YOU DO NOT HAVE A
WARRANTY!!
THE WARRANTY IS NON-TRANSFERABLE UNLESS PRIOR
AUTHORIZATION AND A COMPLETE INSPECTION IS OBTAINED FROM
JMSI.
AFTER 2 YEARS OF OWNERSHIP JMSI WILL PAY A PERCENTAGE OF
REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT COSTS AS FOLLOWS:
3RD YEAR-66% 4TH YEAR-60% 5TH YEAR-52%
TH TH
6 YEAR-46% 7 YEAR-40% 8TH YEAR-32%
9TH YEAR-25% 10TH YEAR-20% 11TH YEAR-12%
TH
12 YEAR-10%

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