Jasmine Hairband

Pattern for Hairband Crocheted with Jasmine Stitches. 6 sizes from 1 year old to adult. US terms.
By Solbjørg Makalani Myrtveit Sæther
IG: @nordicyarnart E-mail: info@nordicyarnart.com

Size, Materials, and Information

Great for learning the Jasmine Stitch: This project is intended for intermediate
crocheters and up. You need to know crochet terminology, the basic crochet stitches, and
how to read a pattern. However, you do not need Jasmine Stitch experience to dive in!
This is a perfect project if you are trying the Jasmine Stitch for the first time.

Size:
Width: about 2.5cm (1”)
Length of ties: 20cm (7.9”)
The length of the Jasmine Stitch Part (the hairband apart from the ties) depends on the
size you are making. See the Overview Table on page 2. I recommend choosing size
based on head circumference, rather than age. The length of the hairband depends on
number of petals on foundation row, the yarn you choose, and the length you pull the
loops of the petals to while crocheting.

Gauge: 10cm (4”) corresponds to 8 Jasmine Stitch Petals measured horizontally (about
1.2cm (0.5”) per petal). The length of the loops decides the gauge and the size of the
hairband – not the hook size you are using.

Hook: 2.5mm.
Jasmine Hairband, page 1
 Yarn suggestions: I suggest using Baby Merino from Drops Design (175m (191yds)
/ 50grams (1.8oz)) or other Sport/5 ply yarn types. Drops Baby Merino is super
wash treated merino wool. The approximate amount needed for each size (if you use
Drops Baby Merino and hit gauge) is listed in the Overview Table.

Please note that lots of different types of yarn will work well for this project. Try out
yarn from your stash and find your favorite! I recommend “compressible” yarn. By
that I mean yarn that becomes nice and flat when pressed between your fingers. You
need compressible yarn to get full petals while keeping the flower centers small.
Getting beautiful petals when working with less compressible yarn (like many types
of ”regular” 100% cotton yarn), can be difficult. I therefore suggest trying Merino
wool. People often find this type of wool nice to wear – it is light and not itchy.

See more info on adapting to other yarn types on page 4.

Please note that the measurements in the table are not exact. The size of the
hairband and the amount of yarn needed depend on yarn type and on how long you
pull the loops when crocheting (the gauge).

You also need: Tape measure, scissors, yarn needle, and one stitch marker.

Overview table
Age Head Length of the Number of Yarn required,
circumference, Jasmine Stitch petals on grams (ounces)*
approx. cm (”) Part in cm (in”)* foundation row
1-2 yr. 48-49 (19.1) 33 (13.0) 23 13 (0.46)
3-4 yr. 50-51 (19.9) 35 (13.8) 24 14 (0.48)
5-8 yr. 52-53 (20.7) 37 (14.6) 25 14 (0.51)
9-12 yr. 54 (21.3) 39 (15.4) 26 15 (0.53)
Teen 55 (21.7) 40 (15.7) 27 15 (0.54)
Adult 56-57 (22.2) 42 (16.5) 28 16 (0.56)
*Approximate measure. The length of the main crochet part and the amount of yarn needed is dependent on
the length you pull the loops of the petals to while working the Jasmine Stitch (your gauge). The amount of
yarn will also vary with the yardage of the chosen yarn.

Jasmine Hairband, page 2

Before you start Abbreviations
st: stitch
YO: yarn over
If you this is your first time working the jasmine
sc: single crochet
stitch, I recommend being very kind to yourself. The ch st: chain stitch
way you crochet is a bit unconventional and learning p: petal (5 loops on hook)
it takes some time - and some trying and failing. With fc: flower center (where
patience, you will get there – and it is totally worth it! multiple petals meet)
psc2: petal stitch cluster with 2
After the pattern (page 5 and onwards), I describe petals, 9 loops on hook
how to make the jasmine stitches needed. I psc3: petal stitch cluster with 3
recommend printing this part. Working with a paper petals, 13 loops on hook
copy allows you to follow along easier than scrolling
back and forth in a digital copy/on a screen.

Make sure you are pulling the loops on your hook to the right length – about 1.2cm
(0.5”) - when working the jasmine stitch! The length of the hairband depends on the
length of your petals/your gauge.

After each row, check that you have the correct number of horizontal p on top of your
work.

Pattern
In short: You crochet the hairband back and forth, the long way. The main part consists of
one foundation row and two rows of Jasmine Stitches. You finish by crocheting ties
attached to the short ends.

Foundation Row: The foundation row consists of a row of petals. Slip knot on hook. Ch 1.
23 (24) 25 (26) 27 (28) p.
Row 1: 1 p to turn. 23 (24) 25 (26) 27 (28) psc3. 1 psc2. Check that you have 24 (25) 26
(27) 28 (29) horizontal p on top of your work.
Row 2: 1 psc2. 23 (24) 25 (26) 27 (28) psc3. Check that you have 23 (24) 25 (26) 27 (28)
horizontal p on top of your work.

The jasmine stitch part is now finished. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

Jasmine Hairband, page 3

Ties
Crochet ties: Attach the yarn to the flower center in the middle of one of the
short sides. Crochet 70 chain stitches to create a long tie (about 20cm (7.9”)).
Cut the yarn and weave in the ends. Do the same on the other side.

Congratulations! Your Hairband is ready!

Variation and scrap yarn bonanza!

You can vary the look of your hairband by using different yarn types. Feel free
to experiment and get ready for some serious stash busting!
Instead of following the number of stitches and gauge in the pattern, you can
crochet the hairband based on the measurements you want – using pretty much
any yarn (as long as it is not very thin. Creating pretty Jasmine Stitches is
difficult with very thin yarn).
Crochet a swatch with the yarn of your choice (or make the first hairband your
swatch). Make sure the yarn gives the look you want. If you are using yarn
thicker than the one this pattern is designed for, pull the loops a bit longer while
crocheting. If you are using thinner yarn, pull the loops a bit shorter. Find the
right combination of yarn and loop length that you like the best!
Measure on the gauge swatch how many petals you have in 10cm / 4”. Calculate
how many petals you will need for the hairband to get the measurements you
want. On the foundation row, make as many petals as you need for your size.
Crochet the hairband following the pattern – but with your number of
petals/petal stitch clusters.

Enjoy!

Jasmine Hairband, page 4

Jasmine Stitch Photo Tutorial
Foundation row and single petals, p

The foundation row does not consist of normal chain stitches, but of a row of petals. Slip
knot and place it onto your hook. Ch 1 (A). Stretch the loop on your hook to 1.2cm (0.5”)
(B). This length will be referred to as ‘regular length’ throughout the pattern.

A B

Yarn over (YO) (C). Insert your hook into the chain stitch where the loop on the hook
emerges from (D).

C D

YO (E) and pull up a loop. You have 3 loops on hook. Stretch all to regular length (F).

E F

Jasmine Hairband, page 5

YO (G). Insert the hook into the same chain stitch again. YO (H) and pull up a loop. You
have 5 loops on hook. Stretch all to regular length (I).

G H I

You will now secure these 5 loops with a sc and a ch st: YO (J). Pinch the working yarn
below the hook to secure (K).

J K

Turn your hook so that the “hooked part” points down (towards the first ch st you made). Pull
through all 5 loops on the hook (L). Keep pinching the yarn in your left hand (L). Tighten the
working yarn a little – so that the opening below the pinched yarn becomes small. Insert the
hook through the opening below the pinched yarn (pink dot in L; M). YO (M).

L M

Jasmine Hairband, page 6

Pull the yarn through the first loop on the hook (not both loops). You have 2 loops on the hook,
one on each side of the five loops (N). Tighten. YO and pull through both loops on the hook.
Tighten. Ch 1. You have secured the five loops with a sc + ch and finished your first p (O).

N O

Note that tightening at the 3 spots marked in bold in the text above is important for getting small
and neat flower centers.

Also please note that you will never work into the ch st you finished the petal with. It is there to
ensure that the sc - that you will work into - does not expand as you work into it.

Repeat the steps above to work multiple petals in a row (instead of inserting your hook through
the ch st, insert it through flower center 1 (fc 1)): Stretch the loop on the hook to regular length,
YO (P). Insert the hook through fc1 (P, Q). Fc 1 is the sc on top of the first/previous p (P, Q).

P Q

fc 1

YO and pull up a loop. You have 3 loops on hook. Stretch all to regular length (R).

fc 1

Jasmine Hairband, page 7

YO and insert the hook through fc 1 again, YO and pull up a loop. You have 5 loops on hook.
Stretch all to regular length (S). Secure these 5 loops with a sc and a ch stitch as you did on
the first petal – refer to the instructions on page 6 and 7. Image T shows your work after
securing your second petal.

S T

Keep working like this (U) until you have the number of petals needed on the foundation row (V).

U V

Row 1:
Turn your work and make a single p (this p does not count as one of the p on the foundation
row). This p will, after you complete the next step, stand up, perpendicular to the foundation
row (W).

W
fc 1

fc 3 fc 2

Jasmine Hairband, page 8

Petal stitch cluster with 3 petals, psc3
You will now work clusters of 3 p together, psc3. The 3 p are fastened in fc 1, 2 and 3 (W, X, Y,
Z). Start as if making 1 p. When you have 5 loops on the hook, do not close off with a sc + ch.
The 5 loops are fastened in fc 1. YO (X). Insert the hook through fc 2, YO and pull up a loop.
You have 7 (5+2) loops on the hook. Stretch to regular length (Y).

X Y

fc 1 fc 2 fc 1
YO. Insert the hook through fc 2, YO and pull up a loop. You have 9 (5+4) loops on the hook.
Stretch to regular length, YO (Z). Insert the hook through fc 3, YO and pull up a loop. You have
11 (5+4+2) loops on the hook. YO. Insert the hook through fc 3, YO and pull up a loop. You
have 13 (5+4+4) loops on the hook. Stretch to regular length (A2).

Z A2

fc 2 fc 1 fc 2 fc 1
fc 3 fc 3
Secure the 13 loops with a sc + ch st as you did for single p. Image B2 shows your work as you
are pinching the yarn below the hook in your left hand, after you have pulled the yarn through all
13 loops. C2 shows your work when you have one loop on each side of the 13 loops.

B2 C2

Jasmine Hairband, page 9

You have secured the 13 loops with sc + ch and completed your first psc3 (D2). Note
that, as before, you will never work into the ch st you made when finishing your psc3.
I recommend placing a stitch marker in the fc on top of the first p of the row. You can
complete the first psc3 before placing the stitch marker, so you do not have to work
into the fc with the stitch marker in it (E2).

D2 E2

Repeat the steps above to work psc3 to the end of the row. Place the second psc3 in fc 1,
fc 2 and fc 3 as shown in F2. G2 shows the second psc3 before you secure the loops, H2
shows it after.

F2 G2
fc 2 fc 1
fc 3

H2

Jasmine Hairband, page 10

Work psc3 all the way across the row. Every fc on the foundation row will get two new
p fastening to it. Place the last psc3 of the row in fc 1, fc 2 and fc 3 as shown in I2. Fc 3
is the very first ch st you made when starting the foundation row. The last psc3 on the
row will look like this before securing the loops (J2), and after (K2).

I2 J2
fc 2 fc 1
fc 3

Finish row 1 with a petal stitch cluster with 2 petals, psc2

You will now finish the row with a psc2, placed in fc 1 and fc 2 as shown in K2: Start as if
making a psc3. When you have 5 loops on your hook, YO (L2).

K2 fc 1 L2

fc 2

fc 2

Insert the hook through fc 2, YO and pull up a loop. YO. Insert the hook through fc 2, YO and
pull up a loop. You have 9 (5 + 4) loops on the hook (M2). Secure with sc + ch st (N2).

M2 N2

Jasmine Hairband, page 11

Below we have made a foundation row with 8 p. We have turned with one single p (pink)
and worked 8 psc3 back. Then we have finished the row with a psc2.

The top of the new row has 9 horizontal p (red) – one more than the foundation row. Note
that in all fc on top of the work, four p meet (two angled p marked in yellow and two
horizontal p marked in red) (not the first and last fc).

O2

Row 2:
Turn your work. Start row 2 with a psc2 fastened in fc 1 and fc 2 as shown in P2. Q2 shows
your work when you have 5 loops on your hook, R2 shows your work when you have 9 loops
on your hook, and S2 shows your work when you have secured the 9 loops with a sc + ch st.

P2 fc 2 fc 1 Q2

R2 S2

Jasmine Hairband, page 12

Work psc3 to the end of the row. The first psc3 on row 2 looks like this, before
closing off (T2) and after closing off (U2).

T2 U2

V2 shows where to place the last psc3 of the row. Note that fc 3 is the top of the first p
of row 1 – the one you marked with a stitch marker. W2 shows the last psc3 before
you have secured the 13 loops, X2 shows it after. You have now completed the
Jasmine Stitch part of the hairband. Be sure to pat yourself on the back!

V2 fc 3 fc 2
fc 1 W2

X2

Jasmine Hairband, page 13

 Thank you so much for choosing a Nordic Yarn Art Design!

I would love to hear from you if you have comments or questions. Feel free to contact me
via e-mail or on IG. I am so excited to see your makes! If you want, please share photos of
your process and product on social media, tagged with #jasminehairband, #nordicyarnart or
@nordicyarnart

This is an original pattern by @nordicyarnart. The pattern is for personal use only, you
cannot share it with others. As part of your hobby, you can sell hairbands that you make,
however, not in large quantities. If selling, please tag me in your makes.

I hope you will enjoy the process, as well as your hairband.

Best wishes and happy crocheting!
Makalani, @nordicyarnart

Thank you!
@annemirarph @valstitchniche @momtotripsplusone @knotted_by_nish
@wellstonecreations @talkinghook @christiefollett @wowmomknits @vibekemagnesen
Astrid Storheim Myrtveit, Ingrid Myrtveit Petersen

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