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Another random document with
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The Project Gutenberg eBook of In the land of the
lion and sun, or, modern Persia
 This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United
States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away
or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License
included with this ebook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you
are not located in the United States, you will have to check the
laws of the country where you are located before using this
eBook.

Title: In the land of the lion and sun, or, modern Persia
Being experiences of life in Persia from 1866 to 1881

Author: C. J. Wills

Release date: November 14, 2023 [eBook #72128]

Language: English

Original publication: London: Ward, Lock & Co, 1891

Credits: Peter Becker and the Online Distributed Proofreading

Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced
from images generously made available by The
Internet Archive)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN THE LAND

OF THE LION AND SUN, OR, MODERN PERSIA ***
 IN THE
LAND OF THE LION AND SUN.
 The Minerva Library.
1. Darwin’s Journal in the “Beagle.”
2. The Ingoldsby Legends.
3. Borrow’s Bible in Spain.
4. Emerson’s Prose Works.
5. Galton’s Tropical South Africa.
6. Manzoni’s The Betrothed Lovers.
7. Goethe’s Faust (Complete). Bayard Taylor.
8. Wallace’s Travels on the Amazon.
9. Dean Stanley’s Life of Dr. Arnold.
10. Poe’s Tales.
11. Comedies by Molière.
12. Forster’s Life of Goldsmith.
13. Lane’s Modern Egyptians.
14. Torrens’ Life of Melbourne.
15. Thackeray’s Vanity Fair.
16. Barth’s Travels in Africa.
17. Victor Hugo: Select Poems, &c.
18. Darwin’s Coral Reefs, &c.
19. Lockhart’s Life of Robert Burns.
20. Barth’s Travels in Africa (II.)
21. Lyra Elegantiarum. Locker-Lampson.
22. Carlyle’s Sartor Resartus, &c.
23. Life and Letters of Franklin.
24. Beckford’s Vathek, and Travels.
25. Macaulay’s Historical and Literary Essays.
26. Yonge’s Life of Wellington.
27. Carlyle’s French Revolution.
28. Wills’ Land of the Lion and Sun.

London: WARD, LOCK & CO.

 SOLOMON IN ALL HIS GLORY.

(From a Native Drawing.)

IN THE
LAND OF THE LION AND SUN,
OR
MODERN PERSIA.

BEING EXPERIENCES OF LIFE IN PERSIA FROM

1866 TO 1881.
ILLUSTRATED BY FULL-PAGE PLATES FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
AND FROM
NATIVE DRAWINGS.

BY
C. J. WILLS, M.D.,
LATE ONE OF THE MEDICAL OFFICERS OF HER MAJESTY’S TELEGRAPH
DEPARTMENT IN PERSIA.

THE ARMS OF PERSIA

(from the Teheran Gazette).

NEW EDITION.

WARD, LOCK AND Co.,

LONDON, NEW YORK, AND MELBOURNE,
1891.
The right of translation is reserved.
 EDITORIAL NOTE.
The author of the Land of the Lion and Sun may claim an
exceptional degree of credit for his book on one of the most
interesting countries in the world; for he derived his knowledge not
merely from a journey through the country, but from a sufficiently
prolonged residence to make him thoroughly at home with the
people, and to understand their inner life. The Times, on its first
appearance in 1883, characterized it as probably the most amusing
book of travel that had been published in recent years. The author’s
profession gave him access to the personality of the people to a
marked extent, giving origin to many of the amusing anecdotes
referred to. The verdict of the Times was endorsed by very many
journals. Nature described the anecdotes as “distinguished by three
cardinal virtues: they are characteristic, they are well told, and they
are infinitely varied.”
Since his return to England, Dr. Wills has become well known as a
novelist and writer of short stories, which he has contributed to most
of the leading magazines and society journals. His novels, some of
which have been written in collaboration with Mr. F. C. Philips, have
been widely read and highly appreciated.
The illustrations, on separate plates, appear here for the first time.
They are reproduced from native drawings, and from Dr. Wills’s
photographs and drawings.
G. T. B.

TO
MAJOR-GENERAL SIR F. J. GOLDSMID,
C.B., K.C.S.I.,

FORMERLY DIRECTOR IN CHIEF OF THE INDO-EUROPEAN

 GOVERNMENT TELEGRAPH DEPARTMENT,

SPECIAL COMMISSIONER FOR THE SETTLEMENT OF THE

PERSIAN FRONTIER,

This Book is Dedicated,

WITH AFFECTIONATE ESTEEM, IN GRATITUDE FOR MANY

KINDNESSES,

BY HIS MOST OBEDIENT SERVANT,

THE AUTHOR.
 PREFACE.
My reason for calling my book ‘The Land of the Lion and Sun’ is
that the Lion and Sun are the national emblems of Persia, while the
second title alone, ‘Modern Persia,’ would have suggested an
exhaustive and elaborate array of matter which is beyond the scope
of this work.
In a personal narrative, it is necessary to use a good many I’s; and
to avoid being obscure, I fear I have been at times over minute, but I
have preferred this to the risk of giving a false impression.
I have striven to describe life in Persia as I saw it, not
exaggerating or softening anything, but speaking of Persia as it is.
The whole narrative may be considered as a record of life in an out-
of-the-way corner of the world; and the reader being left to make his
own reflections, is not troubled with mine.
Usually no names are given, save of those of the dead, or public
men.
The important subject of our fast-dying commerce with Persia, and
the means of really opening the country, I have relegated to an
Appendix.[1]
As to the spelling and transliteration of Persian words used, it is
not classical, it does not pretend to be; but it will convey to the
ordinary reader the local pronunciation of the colloquial; and the
reader not knowing anything of Oriental languages is troubled very
seldom with accents and (apparently) unpronounceable words. Thus
Mūnshi is spelt Moonshee, as that gives the exact sound: ū is often
used to avoid the barbarous appearance of oo. Of course there is no
C in Persian; still as, from habit, we write Calcutta and not Kalkutta,
so some words, like Cah, that use has rendered common, are
inserted under C and K. I think that all that is required is, that the
ordinary English reader shall pronounce the words not too
incorrectly; and it is only when a work is philological that accuracy in
transliteration is of any real importance. With this end in view, I have
tried so to spell Persian words that by following ordinary rules, the
general reader may not be very wide of the mark. To avoid continual
explanation I have added a Glossary, with a correct transliteration. I
have to gratefully acknowledge the valuable help of Mr. Guy le
Strange in correcting this Glossary, and kindly favouring me with the
transliteration according to the system adopted by Johnson, in
several cases in which that author has not noted words, &c.
Oriental Club,
Hanover Square.
 CONTENTS.
PAGE

CHAPTER I.
I GO TO PERSIA.
Wanted a doctor—The Director-in-chief—Doubt and distrust
—Simple advice—Am referred to ‘Hadji Baba’—My kit—
Saddle for riding post—Vienna—Rustchuk—Quarantine
—Galatz—Kustendji—Constantinople—Turkish ladies—
Stamboul—I have my hair cut—“Karagews”—Turkish
coffee—A philo-Turk—Shooting party—The theatres—
The Opera—Armenian theatre—Gambling house—A
Bashi-bazouk—We leave, viâ the Black Sea—The
Russian captain—Unarmed vessels—White Crimean
wine—Foreign wines in Russia—Deck passengers—
Sinope—Batoum—Poti—The post-house—Difficulty in
getting food—Travelling en tröika—Kutais—A tarantass
—Apply for horses—An itching palm—We start—Tiflis—
Lecoq’s beer—A happy reprieve—The joys of travel—
Chief of the Telegraph in Tiflis—Uniforms—Persian
Consulate—Coffee and pipes—Smoking, an art—Effects
on the tyro—Tea—The Consul—His age—Dyeing the
hair—The Opera, varied costumes at—The Tiflis ballet—
Leave Tiflis—Erivan—The Pass—We lighten our load—
Hotel—Washing—Nakchewan—Julfa, the frontier of
Persia 1
CHAPTER II.
POST JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL.
Preparations for the start—Costume—Chaff bed—First fall— 20
Extra luggage—The whip—Stages and their length—
Appearance of the country, and climate—First stage—
 Turk guides—Welcome rest—Weighing firewood—
Meana bug—Turcomanchai—Distances—New friends—
Palace of Kerrij
CHAPTER III.
TEHERAN.
Teheran—The Director’s house—Persian visits—Etiquette—
Pipes, details of—Tumbakū—Ceremony—Anecdote—
The voice of the sluggard—Persian medicine explained
—My prospects as a medico—Zoological Gardens 28
CHAPTER IV.
TEHERAN.
The Gulhaek Road—Visit to a virtuoso—His story—Persian
New Year—Persian ladies—Titles—The harem—Its
inhabitants—A eunuch—Lovely visions—The Dervish—
The great festival—Miscellaneous uniform—At the Court
of Persia—The Shah—The ceremony—Baksheesh—
Rejoicings 36
CHAPTER V.
HAMADAN.
Start for Hamadan—Bedding—Luggage makes the man—
Stages—Meet Pierson—Istikhbals—Badraghah—
Pierson’s house—Hamadan wine—Mode of storing it—
My horses—Abu Saif Mirza—His stratagem—
Disinterested services—Persian logic—Pierson’s horse’s
death—Horses put through their paces—I buy Salts and
Senna—The prince’s opinion—Money table—Edict 54
CHAPTER VI.
HAMADAN.
Morning rides—Engage servants—Dispensary—A bear- 64
garden—Odd complaints—My servants get rich—
Modakel—The distinction between picking and stealing
—Servants—Their pay—Vails—Hakim Bashi—Delleh—
 Quinine—Discipline—I commence the cornet—The
result of rivalry—Syud Houssein—Armenians—Cavalry
officer—Claim to sanctity of the Armenians—Their
position in the country—Jews
CHAPTER VII.
HAMADAN.
Tomb of Esther and Mordecai—Spurious coins—Treasure-
finding—Interest—A gunge—Oppression—A cautious
finder—Yari Khan—We become treasure-seekers—We
find—Our cook—Toffee—Pole-buying—Modakel—I am
nearly caught—A mad dog—Rioters punished—Murder
of the innocents 75
CHAPTER VIII.
HAMADAN.
Antelope—Hunting and hawking—Shooting from the saddle
—Thief-catching—The prince offers his services as
head-servant—Our hunting party—The prince takes the
honours—Kabobs—A provincial grandee—His stud—
Quail-shooting—A relative of the king—Persian dinner—
Musicians and singers—Parlour magic—The anderūn—
Cucumber-jam—Persian home-life—Grateful Armenians
—Lizards—Talking lark—Pigeon-flying—Fantails—
Pigeons’ ornaments—Immorality of pigeon-flying—Card-
playing—Chess—Games—Wrestling—Pehliwans—
Gymnastics 84
CHAPTER IX.
KERMANSHAH.
Leave for Kermanshah, marching—Detail of arrangements— 100
Horse-feeding—Peculiar way of bedding horses—Barley
—Grape-feeding—On grass—Nawalla—Colt, anecdote
of—Horses, various breeds of—Turkomans—Karabagh
—Ispahan cobs—Gulf Arabs—Arabs—Rise in price of
horses—Road cooking—Kangawar temple—Double
snipe—Tents—Kara-Su River—Susmanis—Sana—
 Besitūn—Sir H. Rawlinson—Agha Hassan—Istikhbal—
Kermanshah—As we turn in another turns out—
Armenians—Their reason for apostatising—Presents of
sweetmeats
CHAPTER X.
KERMANSHAH.
Kermanshah—Imād-u-dowlet—We visit him—Signs of his
wealth—Man nailed to a post—Injuring the wire—
Serrum-u-dowlet—Visits—We dine with the son of the
Governor—His decorations and nightingales—Dancing
girls—Various dances—The belly dance—Heavy dinner
—Turf—Wild geese—The swamp—A ducking through
obstinacy—Imādieh—Wealth of the Imād-u-dowlet—The
Shah loots him—Squeezing—Rock sculptures—
Astrologers—Astrolabes—Fortune-telling—Rammals—
Detection of thieves—Honesty of servants—Thefts
through pique—My lost pipe-head—Tragedy of two
women 112
CHAPTER XI.
I GO TO ISPAHAN.
Deficiency of furniture—Novel screws—Pseudo-masonry—
Fate of the Imād-u-dowlet’s son—House-building—
Kerind—New horse—Mule-buying—Start for Ispahan—
Kanaats—Curious accident—Fish in kanaats—Loss of a
dog—Pigeons—Pigeon-towers—Alarm of robbers—Put
up in a mosque—Armenian village—Armenian villagers
—Travellers’ law—Tax-man at Dehbeed—Ispahan—The
bridge—Julfa 123
CHAPTER XII.
JULFA.
Illness and death of horse—Groom takes sanctuary— 136
Sharpness of Armenians—Julfa houses—Kūrsis—
Priests—Arachnoort—Monastery—Nunnery—Call to
prayer—Girls’ school—Ancient language of the
 Scriptures—Ignorance of priests—Liquor traffic—Sunday
market—Loafers—Turkeys—Church Missionary school
—Armenian schools
CHAPTER XIII.
ISPAHAN.
Prince’s physician—Visit the Prince-Governor—Justice—The
bastinado—Its effects—The doctor’s difficulties—Carpets
—Aniline dyes—How to choose—Varieties—Nammad—
Felt coats—Bad water—Baabis—A tragedy—The
prince’s view 145
CHAPTER XIV.
JULFA AND ISPAHAN.
Julfa cathedral—The campanile—The monk—Gez—
Kishmish wine—The bishop—The church—Its
decorations—The day of judgment—The cemetery—
Establishment of the Armenian captives in Julfa—Lost
arts—Armenian artificers—Graves—Story of Rodolphe—
Coffee-house—Tombstone bridges—Nunnery—Schools
—Medical missionary—Church Missionary establishment
—The Lazarist Fathers 157
CHAPTER XV.
ISPAHAN AND ITS ENVIRONS.
Tame gazelle—Croquet-lawn under difficulties—Wild 167
asparagus—First-fruits—Common fruits—Mode of
preparing dried fruits—Ordinary vegetables of Persia—
Wild rhubarb—Potatoes a comparative novelty—Ispahan
quinces: their fragrance—Bamiah—Grapes, Numerous
varieties of—At times used as horse-feed—Grape-sugar
—Pickles—Fruits an ordinary food—Curdled milk—Mode
of obtaining cream—Buttermilk—Economy of the middle
or trading classes—Tale of the phantom cheese—
Common flowers—Painting the lily—Lilium candidum—
Wild flowers—The crops—Poppies—Collecting opium—
 Manuring—Barley—Wheat—Minor crops—Mode of
extracting grain—Cut straw: its uses—Irrigation
CHAPTER XVI.
ISPAHAN AND ITS ENVIRONS.
Pig-sticking expedition—Ducks not tame, but wild—Ruined
mosque with tile inscription—Ancient watch-towers—The
hunting-ground—Beaters—We sight the pig—Our first
victims—The bold Gholam—Our success—Pig’s flesh—
A present of pork—How Persians can be managed—
Opium—Adulteration—Collection and preparation—
Packing—Manœuvres of the native maker—Opium-
eating—Moderate use by aged Persians—My dispensary
over the prison—I shift my quarters—Practice in the
bazaar—An ungrateful baker—Sealing in lieu of signing
—Seals—Wisdom of a village judge 176
CHAPTER XVII.
ISPAHAN.
Cost of living—Servants—Our expenses—Price of provisions
—Bargains—Crying off—Trade credits—Merchants—
Civil suits—Bribery—Shopkeepers—Handicrafts—
Damascening—Shoemakers—Other trades—Bankers—
An Ispahani’s estimate of the honesty of his fellow-
townsmen 186
CHAPTER XVIII.
ISPAHAN.
Daily round—The river—Calico-rinsers—Worn-out mules and 193
horses—Mode of treating the printed calico—Imitations
of marks on T-cloths—Rise of the waters of the Zend-a-
Rūd—Pul-i-Kojū—Char Bagh—Plane-trees—The college
—Silver doors—Tiled halls and mosque—Pulpit—Boorio
—Hassir—Sleepers in the mosque—Cells of the
students—Ispahan priests—Telegraph-office—Tanks—
Causeways—Gate of royal garden—Governor’s garden
—Courtiers and hangers-on—Prisoners—Priests—The
 Imām-i-Juma—My dispensary—Ruined bazaar—A day
in the town—Bazaar breakfasts—Calico-printing—
Painters—The maker of antiquities—Jade teapot—Visit
to the Baabis—Hakim-bashi—Horse-market—The
“Dar”—Executions—Ordinary—Blowing from guns—A
girl trampled to death—Dying twice—Blowing from a
mortar—Wholesale walling up alive—A narrow escape
from, and horrible miscarriage in carrying it out—Burning
alive—Crucifixions—Severity: its results
CHAPTER XIX.
MY JOURNEY HOME AND MARCH TO SHIRAZ.
Julfa quarters—Buy a freehold house—I ornament, and make
it comfortable—Become ill—Apply for sick leave—Start
marching—Telegram—Begin to post—Reach Teheran—
Obtain leave—Difficulty at Kasvin—Punishment of the
postmaster—Catch and pass the courier—Horses knock
up—Wild beasts—Light a fire—Grateful rest—Arrive at
Resht—Swamp to Peri-Bazaar—Boat—Steamer—
Moscow—Opera—Ballet—Arrive in England—Start
again for Persia—Journey viâ Constantinople—
Trebizonde—Courier—Snow—Swollen eyes—Detail of
journey from Erzeroum to Teheran—The races—Ispahan
—Leave for Shiraz—Persian companions—Road-beetles
—Mole crickets—Lizards—Animals and birds—The road
to Shiraz—Ussher’s description—Meana bug legend
again 206
CHAPTER XX.
SHIRAZ.
Entry into Shiraz—Gaiety of Shirazis of both sexes—Public 218
promenade—Different from the rest of Persians—Shiraz
wine—Early lamb—Weights: their variety—Steelyards—
Local custom of weighing—Wetting grass—Game—Wild
animals—Buildings—Ornamental brickwork—Orange-
trees—Fruits in bazaar—Type of ancient Persian—
Ladies’ dress—Fondness for music—Picnics—Warmth
 of climate—Diseases—The traveller Stanley—His
magazine rifle and my landlord’s chimney—Cholera—
Great mortality—We march out and camp—Mysterious
occurrence—Life in a garden—The “Shitoor-gooloo”—
Bear and dog fight—The bear is killed
CHAPTER XXI.
SHIRAZ WINE-MAKING.
Buy grapes for wine-making—Difficulty in getting them to the
house—Wine-jars—Their preparation—Grapes rescued
and brought in—Treading the grapes—Fermentation—
Plunger-sticks—Varieties of Shiraz wine and their
production—Stirring the liquor—Clearing the wine—My
share, and its cost—Improvement by bottling—Wasps—
Carboys—Covering them—Native manner of packing—
Difficulties at custom-house—The Governor’s
photographic apparatus—Too many for me—A lūti-pūti 229
CHAPTER XXII.
SHIRAZ AND FUSSA.
Cheapness of ice—Variety of ices—Their size—Mode of
procuring ice—Water of Shiraz: its impurity—Camel-fight
—Mode of obtaining the combatants—Mode of securing
camels—Visit to Fussa—Mean-looking nag—His powers
—See the patient—State of the sick-room—Dinner sent
away—A second one arrives—A would-be room-fellow—
I provide him with a bedroom—Progress of the case—
Fertility of Fussa—Salt lake—End of the patient—Boat-
building—Dog-cart—Want of roads—Tarantulas—
Suicide of scorpions—Varieties—Experiment—Stings of
scorpions—The Nishan 240
CHAPTER XXIII.
SHIRAZ—THE FAMINE.
Approach of famine—Closing of shops—Rise in mule-hire— 251
Laying in of stores—Seizures of grain—Sale of goods by
poor—Immigrations of villagers to the towns—Desertions