This is a generic carburetor manual for the YF & YFA series.

While the illustrations may not fit your exact

carburetor they are close enough to get you through a re-build.

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YF DOWNDRAFT CARBURETER

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 CONTENT PAGE
ADJUSTMENTS 19
SPECIFICATIONS 26
TROUBLESHOOTING 27

DIS ASSEMBLY

1. Remove pin springs, fast idle connector rod spring

and rod.

2. Remove air horn and bowl cover attaching screws (7),

and choke tube clamp assembly.

3. Remove air horn assembly and gasket.

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4. Remove pump disc retainer ring (using knife tip)
retainer and pump check disc.

5. Remove throttle shaft arm assembly, pump connector

link, shaft seal spring, dust seal washer, and felt dust
seal.

6. Loosen diaphragm housing attaching screws (41 and

lift out the entire pump and metering rod assembly.

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7. Remove diaphragm housing attaching screws, pin
spring, metering rod, upper pump spring retainer, upper
pump spring, metering rod arm assembly and pump
lifter link.

8. Remove diaphragm spring retainer, spring and pump

diaphragm assembly.

9. Carefully remove pump intake strainer from

housing, using tip of knife blade. This strainer will
usually be gone. As long as you have an in-line fuel
filter this does not have to be there.

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10. Remove metering rod jet.

11. Remove low speed jet as assembly. Do not remove

pressed in parts such as: nozzle, pump jet or anti-
percolator air bleed. The small orifice in this part gets
clogged easily. Be sure you can blow through it.

12. Remove body flange attaching screws (3), body

flange assembly and gasket.

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 13. Remove idle adjustment screw, spring, idle port
rivet plug, throttle lever assembly, washer, fast idle
arm, valve attaching screws (2), and throttle shaft.
Grind the threaded end of the screws or the screws
will break. Then remove the throttle shaft seal by
prying out seal retainer. Do not remove vacuum
passage orifice (pressed in).

14. Remove float pin, float, and needle and seat

assembly from air horn casting.

15. Remove choke valve screws and choke valve.

Grind the threaded ends of the screws or they will
break. Unhook choke spring and slide shaft from
housing. Do not remove balance vent tube. Note: In
normal service, choke lever assembly will not require
replacing. However, if it has been bent or otherwise
damaged requiring replacement, proceed as follows:
Pry off choke lever retainer ring (A) and remove lever
assembly.

16. Wash all parts in carburetor cleaning solution and blow out passages with compressed air. Do not
immerse diaphragm assembly pump check disc or seals in cleaning solution. Inspect all parts for wear
or damage—replace t if necessary. Always use new gaskets.

ASSEMBLY

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 17. Group all parts controlling float circuit: float, float
pin, needle and seat assembly, air horn gasket.

18. Group all parts controlling low speed circuit:

Throttle shaft seals (2) and retainers (2), throttle
shaft, throttle valve and screws, fast idle arm, throttle
shaft washer, throttle lever as-assembly., idle port
rivet plug, idle adjusting screw and spring, gasket,
attaching screws (3), low speed jet, throttle shaft seal
spring

19. Group all parts controlling high speed circuit:

Metering rod, metering rod jet, spring.
NOTE: You will notice that the metering rod fits
loosely in the main jet. That is normal. The rod
simply restricts some fuel, not plug it off.

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19.
20. Group all parts controlling high
pumpspeed
circuit:
circuit:
Pump
Metering
lifter link,rod,
pumpmetering
connector
rod link,
jet, spring.
throttle shaft arm
assembly, metering rod arm assembly, pump
diaphragm housing, pump diaphragm assembly,
pump diaphragm spring, diaphragm spring retainer,
pump intake strainer, upper pump spring, upper
pump spring retainer, pump disc check, pump disc
retainer, pump disc retainer ring, diaphragm housing
screw and washer assemblies (4).

21. Group all parts controlling choke circuit: Choke

valve and screws (2), choke shaft and lever
assembly, fast idle connector rod and spring, choke
tube clamp assembly, air horn attaching screw and
washer assembly (7), pin spring (2).

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22. Install throttle shaft seal and retainer (B) in
flange casting., Not all YF’s will have the seal.

23. Install fast idle arm, washer and lever assembly

on throttle shaft, slide the shaft into place and install)
throttle valve. Carter trade-mark (c) should go
toward the idle port when viewed from the manifold
side of the flange. Tap valve and hold in place with a
finger before tightening screws.

24. Install idle port rivet plug and idle adjusting

screw and spring.

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25. Attach flange assembly to body casting. Use new
gasket.

26. Install low speed jet assembly.

27. Install pump intake strainer in pump diaphragm

housing and carefully press into recess. Caution: If
the strainer is even slightly damaged, a new 'one
must be used. These are not currently available.

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28. Install pump diaphragm assembly in
diaphragm housing, then install pump diaphragm
spring ((lower) and retainer.

29. Install pump lifter link, metering rod arm,

upper pump spring and retainer.

30. Install metering rod jet- (No gasket used with

this jet.)

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31. Install diaphragm housing attaching screws (4)
in the diaphragm housing, making sure the edges
of diaphragm are not wrinkled. Lower into place
and tighten screws evenly and securely.

32. Install throttle shaft seal, dust seal washer, and

shaft seal spring.

33. Install pump connector link in the throttle

shaft arm assembly. Install throttle shaft arm
assembly on throttle shaft, guiding connector link
into pump lifter link hole.

Caution: Linkage must not bind in any throttle

position. If binding occurs, loosen clamp screw in
throttle arm, adjust slightly and retighten the
screw.

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 34. Install pump check disc, disc retainer, and lock
ring. The lock ring may be missing. The discharge
will work OK either way.

35. Install metering rod and pin spring. Connect

metering rod spring.

36. Metering Rod Adjustment: Be sure flat of

metering rod arm is parallel to flat of pump lifter
link before proceeding with metering rod
adjustment. With throttle valve seated, press down
on the upper end of the diaphragm shaft. The
metering rod should be seated in casting and
metering rod arm flat against the pump lifter link
(C). If the metering rod does not seat in body
casting (check by pressing downward on the
metering rod) or seats before the metering rod arm
makes flat contact with pump lifter link, raise or
lower by bending lip (D) on the metering rod arm.

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Here is another illustration for adjusting the metering rod.

37. Install the needle seat and gasket assembly,

needle, float, and float pin. Stop shoulder (6) on
float pin must be on the side away from the bore of
the carburetor. WARNING. Any pressure on the
needle will cause it to leak. Do NOT bend the
pontoon to adjust.

38. Set float level to catalog page specifications.

Measure from machined surface of casting (gasket
removed). Adjust by bending lip which contacts
needle.

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39. Install air horn gasket and air horn assembly.
Install attaching screws and lock washers (7) and
choke tube clamp assembly. (Tighten center
screws first.)

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40. Slide choke shaft and lever assembly into Place
and connect choke lever spring. Install the choke
valve. Center valves by tapping lightly and hold in
place with fingers when tightening screws.

41. Install a fast-idle connector rod with an offset

portion of the rod to top and pin spring to the
outside (F). install fast idle connecting rod spring.

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ADJUSTMENTS

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SPECIFICATIONS

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TROUBLESHOOTING

CARTER YF TROUBLESHOOTING

My accelerator pump diaphragm leaks around the housing

These sometimes become warped and need to be made flat again. Place the housing between 2 flat metal stocks.
Heat the housing with some pressure from a vise. Be careful not to melt the metal.
Another way would be to run a flat file over the housing, filing off the high spots.

Are the carburetor kit parts ethanol ready?

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I am looking to purchase a Carter rebuild kit PK105. Are the materials in this kit compatible with ethanol-
blended fuels?

Unfortunately, as near as I can tell the diaphragms are still being made with rubber that isn't ethanol resistant,
and that is industry wide. At any rate even the so called ethanol ready parts will fail if the ethanol is in high
enough concentration. This means the vehicle cannot sit for more than a week or so. Ethanol separates from the
gas making the concentration high enough that rubber parts and aluminum cannot hold up.

One solution is to use Ethanol Defense in your gas. We have had very good feedback on this particular
additive.

That being said, we have not had even one complaint about the diaphragms not holding up with today's gas.
Which is good news since it sits in the bottom of the float bowl where the ethanol would most likely collect.

Plugs are fouling in 50 miles.

Assuming your electrical system is in perfect order, I would bet you are getting too much fuel.

This could be caused by the following:

Float level off, or perhaps leaking. Heat up some water just prior to boiling, immerse the float, any bubble
indicates a leak.
Leaking around the seat. Make sure you installed the gasket under the seat. Check for any cracks, or perhaps the
old gasket is still underneath. An problem here would allow the gas to bypass the needle & seat.
Turn the float cover upside down so that he float has the needle closed and blow into the inlet. You shouldn't be
able to blow through (using about 5 lbs).
Run thin wire through all of the small passages. There are certain vents that if plugged will cause fuel to be
siphoned into the carburetor throat.
Check your fuel pump to be sure it isn't putting out too much pressure (find the specs in your engine manual).
New fuel pumps are especially suspect. Electric fuel pumps need a regulator installed.
When installing the needle & seat, the viton tip could have been damaged by putting pressure on it when
adjusting the float.
Sometimes wiping the needle viton tip with mineral spirits will help. Just wipe until you don't get any black on
the towel.
Test the main discharge to make sure it is sealing when not in use. It could be siphoning gas here if it isn't
sealing.
Jets are probably not the problem unless they are a lot oversized.
If you have the black Nitrophyl type of float, then be sure to replace it. They tend to absorb over time (years).
Once they get too heavy, they will start to sink and let too much fuel in.

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 Gas is coming out of the throttle shaft ends. Too much gas, Flooding.

This means that the carburetor is flooding and when this happens the gas runs down the carburetor and out the
1st place it can, which is the throttle shaft.

Some of the things to look for:

Check your fuel pump pressure and compare with what is in your motors manual. For the YF probably around 4
lbs.
The needle in the needle and seat may be damaged. This can happen when putting pressure on it when adjusting
the float. Check the viton tip for any signs of scaring.
Wipe the needle viton tip off with mineral spirits. Wipe until you don't get any black.
Dirt may have gotten into the needle and seat. Blow out and re-try.
Gas could be coming in the bowl around the seat. Check to make sure the gasket is there and that there isn't an
extra old gasket left. Check for any cracks in the bowl top.
Check the floats for leaks. Heat up some water and dip the float into the water. Any leaks will bubble.
Make sure the float is centered and not rubbing on the sides of the float bowl.
Move the float up & down by hand to see if it catches anywhere.
Check the float level to make sure it is correct.
Run thin wire down the idle tube to be sure it is clear.
Move the float up and down to see if you can feel any resistance. The float pin could be worn causing the float
to hang up.
Check the main discharge. Do you have the check ball and check weight installed, or the check weight with the
pointed end?
Dirt may have entered the carburetor after it was rebuilt. Make sure you have a good in line filter.

What is Flooding and How Do I Fix It?

The metering rod fits too loose in the main jet.

This is normal for the Carter YF & YFA. The metering rod does not fit tight. It is built to restrict a certain
amount of fuel, not to shut if off.Carburetor runs rich at idle.

Among other things check the idle tube to make sure it is clear. Run thin wire down the hole to clear out any

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ethanol residue. See number 42 in the illustration.

Whilst following your adjustment instructions and when carrying out the metering rod adjustment,can you tell me if I should disconnect
the link pump connector first.

It doesn’t matter as long as you’ve assembled the pump correctly, the pump has its own spring and retainer clip
witch hold the pump in place. The metering rod has its own spring and clip witch hold it in its own place, your
adjustment is that part only. Hope this makes sense.

Fuel is dribbling out of the main discharge at idle.

This should not be happening. Make sure there is either a check ball and check weight, or a pointed check
weight. Seat the check ball using a brass drift punch and tap lightly.
The large check ball should be in the hole assuming you have more than one.

Non vented gas cap can cause this. The tank will build up pressure and force fuel into the carburetor.

Plugged idle tube is another problem.

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 Does the YF use a fuel inlet fitting?

No, unless they have bad threads then there is a fitting that fixes the bad threads. Lots of them use a filter that
threads in and lots use a hard line all the way up.

What is this hole?

This is the accelerator pump diaphragm drain. It returns excess pump discharge to the float bowl. Do not plug it
off.

Idle Doesn't Kick Down When Coming to a Stop

With the exception of a vacuum leak, the idle is affected by the throttle valve being open. What you need to do
is figure out what is making the valve stay open.

• With the engine warmed up is the choke valve open completely? If not, then it is keeping the throttle
from closing.
• The 1st thing to do is remove the carburetor from the engine.

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 • Now with the linkage eliminated pump the throttle. Does the throttle valve close completely?
• Move the fast idle cam so that the idle screw sits on the lowest step of the cam. The throttle valve should
be closed. If not, then the fast idle cam might be installed wrong, or is sticking. This will keep the
carburetor from getting to slow idle.
• Turn the idle screw out until it isn't touching the fast idle cam. Check the throttle valve now. Keep in
mind that the idle screw opens the throttle valve, which speeds up the RPM.
• Disconnect the link that connects the throttle shaft to the accelerator diaphragm arm. Work the throttle to
see if the throttle plate closes. If it does then you probably have something wrong with the diaphragm
setup.
• If it all looks good, then take the top off and check the Accelerator pump diaphragm to see if it is put
together correctly. See this page to learn about the accelerator pump diaphragm.

After Shutting Down Engine is Hard To Start

There are a myriad of things that can cause this.

Here are a few ideas for you to look at:

• #1 thing to look at is the ignition. This isn't our expertise but some ideas are coil, old spark plugs, etc.
• Percolating - Engine stops and gas boils over - After turning off the hot engine look down the carburetor
to see if gas is still flowing into the bore.
• Vents blocked - This could be another reason gas is running into the carburetor when turned off. Any
vents that are blocked will cause a vacuum effect in the float bowl.
• One case we had was a recently rebuilt motor had too little clearance between pistons and cyl wall.
When the engine got hot parts would expand and seize.
• Test the fuel pump when hot - It might be getting weak. Warning - new fuel pumps often have too much
pressure. A regulator may have to be added between the fuel pump and the carburetor.

Only runs when the choke valve is wide open

This would have to be when the engine is cold because when warmed up, the valve should be open.

So assuming it is cold:

This tells me that when the choke valve is closed there is too much gas being pulled into the engine.

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• Check the fast idle. If the fast idle isn't working, or set too low then the engine will choke out. The fast idle
opens the throttle valve so that more air is used.
• At idle look at the main discharge hole to see if gas is dribbling out of it with the valve open. That would
indicate gas is getting siphoned from the main discharge maybe due to the check ball not seating, or check
weight above the check ball missing. Also test the check ball to make sure it is seating.
• Be sure the gas cap is vented. You can usually tell this by driving for awhile, then remove the gas cap. A
non vented cap will cause a suction.

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