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Documentation of recent advancements in finishing methods and chemicals

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Journal of University of Shanghai for Science and Technology ISSN: 1007-6735

Documentation of recent advancements in finishing methods and chemicals

in the textile industry
Soumili Sarkara, Sumit Kumara, Kamaljeet Singhb, Deepak Mehraa,
a
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY Fashion Technology Department Bhubaneswar,
b
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY Fashion Technology Department, Kangra
Corresponding author: Dr. Deepak Mehra, deepak.mehra@nift.ac.in

Abstract
Global Textile Market size was valued at 1.69 billion USD in 2022 and is poised to touch
USD 3.27 billion by 2031. The expansion of demand from the fashion industry and the
growth of the e-commerce sector drive the textile sector, both globally and in India. The rapid
progress and advancements in the field of the textile industry are being made to fulfil the
demands of the customer concerning cloth and fabric quality, design and aesthetic appeal.
Textile finishing plays a key role to improve the aesthetic qualities of fabrics and add specific
technical properties to each fabric. The advancement of finishing methods in terms of
knowledge-based, eco-friendly and smart textile finishing methods redefines the role of
contemporary textile materials by expanding their capabilities to meet the expectations of
modern lifestyles. These advancements have paved the way for functional textiles with
multiple properties, opening new opportunities for the industry. Further, there has been a
noticeable shift in the textile sector toward environmentally friendly finishing techniques as
well as general production procedures. However, the challenges continue regarding
production costs, product affordability, and the environmental impact of the finishing
methods and processes of the textile industry. The quest continues for advanced techniques
that balance cost-effectiveness, durability, aesthetic appeal, comfort, and sustainability in the
textiles and apparel industry.

Keywords: Fabric; Textile finishing; Microencapsulation; Biopolymer; Smart Textiles

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1. Introduction
The industrial production of textiles is a long and complex process where natural or manmade
fibers are converted into yarn and fabrics. The textile industry generates a wide range of
goods, such as industrial textiles, sports textiles, medical textiles, automotive textiles,
construction textiles, geotextiles, and agrotextiles (Roy et al., 2020; Sun et al., 2018).
Humans have been utilising natural fibres derived from plants and animals for thousands of
years. Natural fibres are ecologically sound unless fertilisers, pesticides, and other hazardous
chemicals are applied to increase their productivity. Abruptly, at the beginning of the
twentieth century, major advancements in the field of synthetic fibres were accomplished.
Their quick and increased output and other qualities decreased the need for natural fibres and
quickly gained a significant portion of the market.

In the context of textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the operations that turn
woven or knitted fabric into a workable material; more precisely, finishing refers to any
procedure carried out following yarn or fabric dyeing to enhance the appearance,
functionality, or "hand" (feel) of the finished garment or textile. A finish is a procedure
applied to a cloth to alter its handling, touch, or Its goal is to improve the fabric's suitability
for the intended usage. It encompasses all standard procedures used to iron, clean, and
produce unique variants of fabrics utilising chemical treatments, dyeing, and printing to
enhance the visual attractiveness of the cloth.

2. Importance of textile finishing

Textile finishing plays a key role in the industry as it adds specific aesthetic and technical
qualities to each fabric. The other benefits of textile finishing include;

• Enhance the fabric's appearance

• Utilize printing and dyeing to create a range of textiles.
• Boost the fabric's touch or sensation
• Boost the lightweight materials' ability to drape
• Make the fabric fit for the purpose (specific)
• Boost the selling appeal

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• Produce an assortment of fabrics through dyeing and printing

3. Textile finishing methods

Textile finishing encompasses a wide range of processes, procedures, and methods that affect
the quality of fibers either before or after fabric production. These methods aim to enhance
the appearance and tactile qualities of fabrics, involving both chemical and mechanical
treatments applied to fibers, yarns, and other components to improve their appearance,
texture, or overall performance.

Fig. 1. Various types of Textile finishing methods

3.1. Conventional textile finishing

Traditional textile finishing can be classified into dry methods, which utilize mechanical
techniques, and wet methods, which involve chemical processes. The typical sequence of
steps in traditional textile finishing comprises washing and drying, stabilizing the yarns, and
finally, pressing, ironing, or calendaring to enhance the aesthetics of the yarns.

3.1.1 Dry or Mechanical Finishing

This process employs brushing, ironing, or other physical treatments to enhance the shine and
texture of textiles using mechanical equipment such as calendars, rollers, and pressing irons.
The raising and calendaring procedures do not contribute to pollution.

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• Heat-setting involves subjecting textile materials to specific temperatures under

tension to stabilize and add texture to fabrics.
• Brushing and napping fabric entails using wires or brushes to pull individual fibers,
which reduces the fabric's shine by gently abrading the surface fibers. This action
causes some fibers to stand upright on the fabric surface, resulting in a fluffy, soft
texture.
• Calendaring or ironing is utilized to decrease surface friction between individual
fibers, thereby softening the fabric structure and enhancing its shine.
• Optical finishing improves the fabric's light scattering ability when compressed
during calendaring.
• The shearing process eliminates loose fibers by passing the fabric over a cutting blade
to a take-up roll.

3.1.2. Wet or Chemical Finishing

Applying chemical finishes to textiles yields advantageous outcomes such as reducing static
cling and improving flame retardancy. This procedure typically involves dissolving
chemicals in a solvent medium and subsequently applying the solution to treat textile
materials. The solvent medium can vary, encompassing water, starch, organic liquor
containing dyes and pigments, or chemicals dissolved in water.

• Optical finishes are utilized on textile materials to alter light scattering, thereby either
enhancing brightness or dulling the fabric.
• Absorbent and soil release treatments adjust surface tension and other properties to
improve water absorbency or facilitate soil release.
• Softeners and abrasion-resistant coatings are administered to improve texture or
reinforce the textile's resistance to abrasion and tearing.
• Physical stabilization finishes are applied to stabilize cellulosic fibers during
laundering and shrinkage.
• Dyeing involves fixing dye chemical compounds onto a substrate, which may be
fiber, yarn, or fabric, to achieve a uniform color effect on the substrate.
• Textile fabrication: Fabrics necessitate meticulous arrangement before cutting to
ensure precision in the process. Sewing basic industrial and household items is
generally straightforward. Subsequently, the finished product may undergo pressing
to attain crisp edges on the fabric.

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4. Recent Advancements in Textile Finishing

Growing concerns regarding degradation from chemical and microbial assaults, exposure to
pesticides, pollutants, ultraviolet radiation, and recent climatic shifts attributed to air
pollutants and intense solar heat leading to heat waves and excessive perspiration, have
spurred the demand for futuristic, adaptive, form-fitting garments. These garments are crafted
from materials now referred to as "knowledge-based" textile materials (Jocic, 2012). These
materials, also known as "functional textiles," are designed with inherent functionalities
aimed at embracing futuristic, body-friendly capabilities. Essentially, functional textiles are
conceived from the outset, starting from fiber development to finishing, to adapt to the body
and its surroundings in a user-friendly manner. They are intended to redefine the role of
contemporary textile materials by expanding their capabilities to meet the advanced
expectations of modern lifestyles. However, the majority of modern functional finishing
techniques employed in the textile treatment sector now integrate nanotechnology and
directly embed functional agents into textile materials. Examples of these functional agents
include antimicrobial agents, water repellents, self-cleaning surface treatments, anti-crease
agents, fire retardants, fluorescent whitening agents, and UV blockers.

Concept of Eco-friendly Textile Finishing

Eco-friendly finishes are suitable textile processing techniques that produce finished goods
that are not only environmentally friendly but also do not negatively impact the air and water
quality in the surrounding area by emitting dangerous gases into the atmosphere and
discharging effluent water. The following are some methods that are becoming more popular
these days to reach the goal of environmentally friendly textile finishing: Plasma technology,
Laser treatment, Nanotechnology, Bio-technology, Biopolymer, Microencapsulation Method,
Herbal Textiles, Ultrasonic assisted wet-processing.

4.1. Microencapsulation

Microencapsulation involves enclosing very small droplets or particles of liquid or solid

material with a continuous film of polymeric material. This technique is highly effective for
creating fragrance-releasing textiles with prolonged odor. Microcapsules are tiny containers
typically spherical if they contain a liquid or gas, and roughly match the shape of the
enclosed particle if they contain a solid. It can be likened to a specialized form of packaging,
where particulate matter is individually coated to protect it from the environment and release
the volatile substance from the capsule as needed.

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Textile finishes that release fragrances, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical substances are
sometimes referred to as wellness finishes, offering appealing incentives for consumers. A
wide range of water- or oil-soluble compounds, such as fragrances, cosmetics, vitamins, and
drugs, can be encapsulated in the biopolymer chitosan. These finishes come in various
formulations with different capsule ingredients, including moisturizing, relaxing, and anti-
cellulite properties, or capsules containing a hair growth inhibitor or a sun-tan inducer.

4.2. Enzymatic Surface Modification

The enzymatic surface modification involves altering the chemical and physical surface
properties of fibers or biopolymers to enable processes such as adsorption, covalent bonding
of functionalities, entrapment/immobilization, and encapsulation of moieties on textile
material substrates. This process utilizes biological catalysts known as enzymes. Enzymes
used in the surface modification of textiles during finishing include xyloglucanendo-
transglycosylase, pectinases, cellulases, cutinases, tyrosinases, amylases, peroxidases, and
nitrilases.

4.3. Insect Resistance and Mite Protection Finishes

Insect resistance finishes can be categorized into two types: those containing poisons that
disrupt the keratin-digesting process of larvae, and nerve poisons derived from agricultural
pesticides specifically formulated for textile applications. Examples of chemicals involved in
the digesting process include chlorinated triphenylmethanes, chlorphenylids, sulcofenurons,
and flucofenurons, while nerve-poisonous substances used include dieldrin, permethrin, and
hexahydropyrimidine. The carpet industry is a significant market for insect-resistant finishes.

4.4. Elastomeric Finishes

Elastomeric finishes, also known as stretch or elastic finishes, are crucial for knitwear.
Currently, these finishes are achieved primarily with silicone-based products. Another
approach to providing fabrics with elastomeric finishes involves incorporating a small
percentage of elastic fibers, mainly segmented polyurethanes, into the yarn-making process
before fabric manufacture.

4.5. Non-Slip Finishes

Non-slip finishes enhance adhesion between fibers and yarns, irrespective of fabric
construction. These finishes are commonly referred to as fiber and yarn bonding finishes or
by terms such as anti-slip, non-shift, and slip-proofing finishes. Enhanced adhesion between

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yarns is particularly important in woven fabrics at seams and in highly stretched areas like
shirt, blouse, and jacket elbows. Friction-enhancing agents used in these finishes are typically
based on dispersions of silicic acid known as "sols".

4.6. Enhancing Color Fastness

In today's market, colored textiles must meet various standards. Therefore, improving color
fastness through chemical finishing holds significant practical importance. These finishes
primarily focus on enhancing wet fastness properties such as washing, water, perspiration,
and ironing fastness, as well as improving light fastness to a lesser extent, with minor
improvements in crocking and rubbing fastness. Quaternary polyheterocycles like
polydiallyldimethyl ammonium chloride (DADMAC) are commonly used for improving wet
fastness, particularly in direct and reactive dyed cellulose fabrics. For other types of color
fastness, such as dry ironing, chlorine exposure, peroxide treatment, and carbonization, there
are limited known methods for post-treatment improvement. Ultraviolet (UV) light absorbers,
including colorless organic compounds with aromatic structures like benzophenone,
benzotriazol, phenyl triazine, and α-cyanoacrylic acid derivatives, are also utilized.
Additionally, titanium dioxide, a common delustering agent in synthetic fibers, exhibits
strong UV light absorption. The significance of these finishes in the market is driven by
customer preferences and economic production demands.

4.7. Flame-Retardant Finishes

Flame-retardant finishes provide textiles with resistance to flames. Industries such as

firefighting, emergency response, military, and aviation have a growing need for flame-
retardant textiles. Commercial flame retardants fall into three main categories: primary flame
retardants containing phosphorous and halogens, synergistic retardancy enhancers with
minimal flame-retarding effects on their own, and adjunctive flame retardants that act
through physical effects, such as borates, alumina trihydrate, calcium carbonate, and
intumescent materials.

4.8. Clay Finishing

Clay materials are utilized in textile finishing to leverage their microstructural properties for
enhancing technical textile materials into composite fabrics. Polymers reinforced with 2–5%
nanoclays show improvements in flame retardancy, barrier properties, dimensional stability,
and, to some extent, electrical properties. Functionalized nanoclays, particularly

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montmorillonites (MMTs), are being explored to enhance the mechanical properties of

polypropylene thermoplastics.

4.9. Aerodynamic Dyeing

Aerodynamic dyeing, also known as "jet dyeing," involves dye application through air flow
or advanced spraying mechanisms. This sustainable dyeing solution aims to reduce water,
energy, and chemical usage during textile processing, which is particularly significant in
finishing compared to yarn spinning and fabric production processes like weaving and
knitting.

4.10. Plasma Technology

Plasma treatment is a surface modification process involving ionization of gases by two

electrodes separated by a high-frequency electric field inside a reactor under low pressure.
This process considered a recent advancement in textile finishing, allows the treatment of
fabrics with low melting points like polypropylene and polyethylene without causing damage.
By bombarding the fabric surface with elements from the plasma, both physical (roughness)
and chemical modifications occur, preparing the surface for the subsequent introduction of
free radicals and new chemical groups. However, as the treatment is limited to the surface
molecular layers, mechanical properties remain unaffected.

4.11. Textile Nanofinishing

Nanotechnology is the science of the small with immense potential. It is one of the 21st-
century's key technologies that is advancing the quickest. In recent years, metallic
nanoparticles have been applied in many different fields. Materials in the 1–100 nm range are
quite interesting since many of the more recent characteristics become useful in this
range. Textile nanofinishing involves composite materials comprising nanoparticles enclosed
in a carrier matrix. Nanosphere finishes provide water repellency and color resilience,
repelling liquids, dirt, and stains from substances like ketchup, oil, and red wine. These
finishes are particularly beneficial for fabrics used outdoors, such as polyester awnings,
sunshades, flags, and sails, which cannot be easily machine-washed. Additionally, metal
nanoparticles and metal oxide nanoparticles offer desirable effects in textile materials through
interactions with light and microorganisms.

4.12. Laser treatment

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Laser treatment is another physical surface treatment technique that forms hydrophilic
groups on hydrophobic fibres to improve the colouring process. Particularly well suited for
textiles, which are composed of a combination of gases including CO 2 , nitrogen, hydrogen,
and helium, are carbon dioxide (CO2) lasers. Numerous studies have been conducted to
investigate the potential of laser irradiation for surface finishing of various textile types. It is
necessary to choose a laser type that irradiates in the highly absorbent spectral area of the
high polymers. Surface structuring may be achieved with laser technology without
compromising the mechanical and thermal characteristics of the fiber's body (Unal., et al.,
2020).

4.13. Biotechnology
Using a lot of water and creating a lot of salts, acids, and alkalis in the process of preparing
cotton fiber, yarn, and the fabric is one of the most harmful aspects of textile manufacturing
to the environment. Cotton fibers can be treated via bio-preparation with an enzyme under
very mild circumstances. The new technique can be profitably employed when water and
effluent loads are reduced through the use of the bio-preparation approach. Similar to hot
sodium hydroxide, enzymes protect the cotton fiber from deterioration without endangering
any of the fiber's constituent parts. As an example, a very powerful alkaline pectinase has just
been found. This enzyme is a useful tool for biopreparation since it maintains the cellulose in
cotton fibers (Mojsov, 2012)

4.14. Biopolymer
Biopolymers are sourced from biological sources, including marine and agricultural
feedstock. These materials are appropriate and sustainable for the creation of bioactive
textiles. Biopolymers such as polysaccharides, chitosan, and sericin proteins are substitutes
for chemical-based finishing agents in the functional finishing of textile fabrics (Abdellatif, &
Abdellatif, 2021). Biodegradability, biocompatibility, and wide availability are three of
biopolymers' main benefits. Finishes with antibacterial, UV protection, insect repellent, and
flame-retardant qualities may be made with biopolymers (Shahid, & Mohammad, 2013).

4.15. Ultrasonic assisted wet-processing

Large amounts of water, as well as electrical and thermal energy, are used in the wet
processing of textiles. To shift mass from the processing liquid medium over the textile
material's surface in an acceptable amount of time, the majority of these procedures require
chemicals to aid, accelerate, or delay their rates. They are also carried out at elevated

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temperatures. In addition to saving time and energy during processing, ultrasound also
preserves or enhances product quality and uses fewer auxiliary chemicals. Ultrasound waves
with high frequencies can create tiny bubbles in liquids, known as cavitation. A little yet
strong shock wave is produced when the bubbles burst, and this shock wave appears to be the
ideal stirring mechanism (Vouters, et al., 2004).

4.16. UV Protective Finishing

The need for UV protective finishes arises from the ongoing depletion of the ozone layer.
These finishes are crucial for resisting the harmful impact of UV rays on human skin. UV
protective finishes are applied during dyeing through a reductive process and can be applied
via exhaust or padding methods. Nanosilver and nanometal oxides like TiO2 and ZnO are
commonly used for coating.

4.17. Herbal textiles

Herbal extracts, which are used to provide fragrance and antimicrobial, skin-nourishing, and
moth-proofing characteristics to luxury textile items, have become quite popular nowadays.
Sustainable luxury fabrics are finished with 1 herbal extract from aloe vera, neem, grape,
mulberry fruit, banana pseudostem, peel sap, and citrus oil. Sandalwood, jasmine, lavender,
and champa are used to extract fragrances for use in clothing and home décor. Plant extracts
such as neem, pomegranate, and prickly chaff flowers that contain phenols and oxygen
derivatives have antibacterial and insecticidal properties (Murugesh Babu & Ravindra, 2015).
Antimicrobial chemicals can also be applied to cotton fabric by direct treatment, crosslinking,
or micro-encapsulation of Tulasi and aloe vera extract (Vastrad, & Byadgi, 2018).

5. Concept of Smart Textiles

This goes beyond the conventional protective function of textiles, leading to the emergence of
functional textiles. A notable innovation is textiles that adjust to temperature changes, cooling
down as ambient temperatures rise and warming up as they drop, achieved by incorporating
phase change materials (PCM) into the fabric. These materials, mainly paraffins with melting
points in the desired temperature range (e.g., 20-30°C), undergo phase transitions to provide a
cooling effect when surroundings heat up and a warming effect when they cool down.
Paraffin is encapsulated into microbubbles and integrated either into the fibers, typically
acrylic, or into a foam coating on the fabric.

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Adaptive camouflage with chameleon effects involves photochromic dyestuffs or pigments,

reacting to changing moisture levels in the surroundings. This is more aligned with chemical
finishes. Textile fibers exhibit varying moisture uptake, with natural fibers like cotton or
wool having high moisture uptake, while synthetics like polyester or polypropylene have low
uptake. Hydrophobic and hydrophilic finishes can modify or enhance this behavior, which is
valuable in medical textiles providing a moisture buffer for wounds.

6. Eco-friendly practices adopted by textile manufacturers

One of the global industries that is thought to be most detrimental to the environment is the
textile sector. The textile industry's environmental issues start in various production stages
and continue to the final product. When a cloth is produced by bleaching and then dying, it
creates a toxin that seeps into our ecology. Ensuring that pollution is controlled throughout
manufacturing is just as important as ensuring that the final product has no harmful effects.
However, textile producers are proactively implementing eco-friendly procedures to lessen
their influence on the environment, and they play a vital part in the worldwide drive to
address environmental problems. These procedures cover a wide range of industrial and
supply chain activities and have a strong emphasis on resource efficiency, sustainability, and
ethical issues. Here are some common eco-friendly practices embraced by textile
manufacturers:

6.1. Ethical sourcing of materials

Since the materials used are crucial to the industry's sustainability, using eco-friendly
clothing materials is frequently the first step in developing an eco-friendly textile sector.

a) Utilizing eco-friendly fibres: Using organic fibres that aren't subjected to toxic
pesticides or genetically modified organisms reduces the harm that conventional
farming practices contribute to the environment. These ecological fibres include
hemp, bamboo, and organic cotton.
b) Recycled resources: On the other hand, recycled fibres save natural resources, reduce
the need for energy-intensive extraction and production processes, and lessen the need
for new materials. such as using recycled polyester, which is created by reusing post-
consumer plastic bottles, or other recycled materials, to make clothing.

6.2. Water Conservation

Textile manufacturers who are concerned about the environment should prioritise water
conservation. Large volumes of water are typically used in the industry for operations like

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dyeing and finishing. Manufacturers are responding to this by minimising wastewater through
the use of water-efficient technology and treatment procedures. Purchasing water recycling
systems guarantees appropriate water management while assisting in reducing the negative
environmental effects of textile production.

6.3. Energy efficiency

Promoting ecological sustainability and resource conservation during the textile production
process requires reducing energy use. In addition to saving resources and cutting greenhouse
gas emissions, it significantly lowers production costs. By decreasing their dependency on
fossil fuels and integrating renewable energy sources like wind and solar power into their
operations, the industry hopes to lessen their carbon footprint and have a positive impact on
the transition to a more sustainable energy environment (Suthar, V., Mehra, D., & Davim, J. P.
2021).

6.4. Eco-friendly dyes and finishes

Conventional dyes and finishes have long been acknowledged to have a significant
detrimental influence on the environment, but there are other ways to make sustainable
clothing. For example, natural dyeing uses environmentally friendly, biodegradable colours
made from plants or other natural sources. Some synthetic, low-impact dyes also provide less
of a risk than conventional colours. Furthermore, environmentally friendly finishing
procedures like enzymatic treatment—which uses enzymes to achieve desirable fabric
characteristics without the use of toxic chemicals and water-efficient processes, such as jet
dyeing and dry dyeing, are also part of sustainable dying.

6.5. Minimizing Waste

Waste reduction techniques are essential to the production of environmentally friendly
textiles. This entails reducing waste generated during the manufacturing process and coming
up with creative ways to recycle or repurpose discarded textiles. To establish a circular
production cycle, minimise waste output, and lessen the demand for virgin materials, several
businesses are investigating closed-loop systems.

6.6. Other practices

Additional environmentally friendly manufacturing practices include obtaining certifications
like OEKO-TEX or the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), which guarantee socially
and environmentally responsible production; being transparent about the supply chain to

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ensure sustainable and ethical sourcing of materials; encouraging local manufacturing to

lower transportation-related emissions and guaranteeing fair labour practises and worker
wages; and adopting the principles of the circular economy, which include designing for
recyclability and facilitating product recycling programmes.

In essence, there has been a noticeable shift in the textile sector toward
environmentally friendly finishing techniques as well as general production procedures. The
industry's realisation of its part in contributing to global ecological difficulties, customer
demand for sustainable products, and a growing knowledge of environmental concerns are
the driving forces behind these developments. The textile industry has entered a good and
revolutionary phase with the introduction of eco-friendly approaches in finishing procedures
and overall practises. Even while there are still obstacles to overcome, the industry's
dedication to sustainability portends a bright future where textiles and fashion coexist
peacefully with environmental responsibility. As innovation, technology, and consumer
consciousness all continue to advance, the textile sector is ideally positioned to take the lead
in ushering in a more environmentally conscious and sustainable future (Manasmita, M.,
Kumar, S., & Mehra, D. 2024).

7. Advantages of Advanced textile finishing methods

The advanced textile finishing methods offer numerous advantages over the conventional
finishing methods. Some of the salient features of the advanced textile finishing methods are
given below;

• Improved cost-efficiency: Reduced production times, simplified machinery, decreased

energy and water consumption, easier process control and automation, fewer errors,
and reduced reliance on highly skilled personnel.
• Introduction of new effects desired by discerning customers and fashion designers.
• Mitigation of undesirable side effects.
• Simplified care for finished textiles.
• Eco-friendly methods and products using fewer chemicals.

8. Conclusion

Textile finishing has evolved significantly, moving from traditional batch-wise or exhaust
processes to innovative techniques like aerodynamic dyeing, aimed at minimizing
wastewater, energy, and chemical usage. Nanotechnology has further enhanced textile

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appearance and quality. These advancements have paved the way for functional textiles with
multiple properties, opening new opportunities for the industry. However, challenges remain,
particularly regarding production costs, product affordability, and environmental impact. The
quest continues for advanced techniques that balance cost-effectiveness, durability, aesthetic
appeal, comfort, and sustainability in the textiles and apparel industry.

References

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