12th July Class: Taarini Mam Makeup Tutorials

Skin Types Weather

1. Normal Hot & Dry

2. Oily Cold & Dry

3. Dry Hot & Humid

4. Dehydrated Cold & Humid

5. Combination Normal (Transition)

Types of ingredients:

Solvents (Carrier) Surfactants Actives

Emulsifiers Humectants Texture Enhancers
Thickeners Occlusives Colours

Mistakes:

Wrong layering over each other like applying oil in starting and thus, it requires ingredient
knowledge.

- Oily skin is the toughest skin to work on. It breaks down the makeup or melt it.

Oil skin release extra oil and extra sebum.

- Acne skin, deep pores, hair follicles.

There is difference between dry and dehydrated.

Hydration and Moisturization are different.

The skin is dehydrated due to lack of water whereas dry skin is due to lack of oil.

Dehydrated skin is rough and can happen to anyone due to weather conditions. It is
temporary thing.

On the other hand, dry skin is long process like aging skin or mature skin. It does not
release any amount of oil. In dry skin, its rough and dull.

Combination skin: The most common skin type. The T – ZONE (FOREHEAD) can be oily
or cheeks can be oil whereas other areas can be dry.
 Working with the types of Ingredients:

1. Solvents: It also known as CARRIER or a BASE.

Solvent is liquid that can dissolve other substance. Thus, it is the makeup product that can
dissolve products.

What is carrier – something which carries the makeup.

Example: mixing blusher with carrier. The carrier will evaporate after giving the effect.

Example: nail paint remover evaporates.

The thing that evaporates quickly in the atmosphere are known as ‘VOLATILE’.

If it evaporates, it is carrier. If the first ingredient of the foundation is ‘oil’, it can be denoted as
‘oil base foundation’. It is important to read the ingredient list. Mostly the first ingredient in the
product description is ‘solvent’. It means that all solvents can not be considered as
‘VOLATILE’.

2. Emulsifier: It mixes a range of substances that do not mix together in their natural
state ie. mixing two different ingredients. such as Oil and water cannot be mixed, so
we need emulsifier to mix them in products.

Pro tip: shake the liquid makeup product before making it to use.

3. Thickeners:
- Viscosity controlling: measures the degree of thickness or thinness of the
product. Higher the viscosity, Higher the thickness.
- Thick foundations are more viscous in nature.

4. Texture Enhancers:

Texture enhancer is either for the SKIN or for the PRODUCT.

- It is the feeling that you get from touching.

- The ingredients decide the product texture.

On the other hand, the texture enhancer for the skin is used to soft the skin or enhance it.

Most common texture enhancers are silicon in nature (identified in the ingredient list).
 HUMECTANTS EMOLLIENTS
(Hydrate) (Moisturize)
It helps to preserve the water molecules It has water molecules or moisture of its own.
in the skin.
It is also known as occlusive.
It attracts the water molecules and stores
it within it. Wherever you apply it, it gives moisture.

If you apply it on the skin, it will act as the If anyone has ‘DRY SKIN’, it will work the
magnet and collect the water. best.

Whenever you apply it on skin, it uses the
moisture of the skin, and does not put
another layer of moisture.
Works with the ‘OILY SKIN’.
Absorbs quickly and is lightweight in
nature.
Example: Hyaluronic acid.
Occlusive sets on skin and absorbs very
slowly.
It has a lubricating property.
Example: oil, wax, shea butter
Pro tip: If the weather is highly humid, we
don’t need Emollient.

Example: Glycerine act as humectants

Pro tip: if the weather is too dry, ‘Humectants’

will not provide enough moisture for skin, so
you can use heavier creams.

5. SURFACTANTS: Works for cleaning the skin like micellar water.

- Anything that cleanses the skin is surfactant.

6. ACTIVES: Works with the skin’s deep level like vitamin C, salicylic acid. It does not
go well with the makeup.

It is needed to understand that there is a difference between skin care and skin prep.

Pro tip: you can’t put vitamin C before applying makeup thinking that it would nourish or
enhance the makeup, it would not work.

How active would help in makeup?

It majorly works on self – makeup by having discipline of working on issues everyday such
as if you are having pigmentation, then the discipline would work.
7. PRESERVATIVES: To preserve the thing from decaying or getting in bad condition
over the period of time.

On every product, there is an expiration date. On every product, there are two dates.
One is shelf life and one is for ‘after opening the product’.

Pro tip: it is important that the product has a long expiration date after its
opening.

Pro tip: The product would not be useful if the manufacturing is expiring but
the after opening data is long. So buy the product of the ongoing year.

8.

MAKEUP ROUTINE

1. Cleansing
2. Toning
3. Moisturizing
4. Correction +
concealing
5. Foundation
6. Powder setting
7. Spray
CONCEALERS:

- Wax based – beeswax, paraffin, carnauba wax

- Oil based – mineral oil, paraffinum liquidum, lanolin
- Silicone based – dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane
- Water based – water, glycerine, glycol, Hyaluronate

Properties Skin Type Weather

Wax based products give Use for Oily skin (Not in

good coverage, thick,
moisturize, * long lasting
until the external heat
gets to makeup and it will
melt.
extreme heat)
Will not melt because of
sweat but heat would mess
it up.

Example product: krylon

derma

Oil based product, will Only work on dry skin Winter n cold or pleasant
always be creamy in and normal skin (in winters) weather
nature, highly lubricating,
not long – lasting, tackles
dryness

Example product: Krylon

Supra
silicone : Lines fill, Combination skin Hot humid and normal
evaporate (dimethicone), oily skin
(cyclopentasiloxane)
water based: Light All skin types All weather
weight, absorb
Concealer
Tarte (OILY SKIN)
Water, cyclopentasiloxane,
cyclohexasiloxane, methyl crosspolymer,
CONSIST OF POLYMER
LAMINATION : WORKS FOR STRONG
FIXING
No hydrating ingredient
Water, glycerine, siloxane
Water, siloxane, glycerine (more long lasting)
HD MAKEUP
- Captures tiny/minute
details.
- It has particles that
reflect the light
- MAJOR INGREDIENT
‘MICA’
- SYNTHETIC VERSION
OF MICA IS ‘SYNTHETIC
FLUOROGRAPHITE’
Some powders will reflect light
Some will absorb
Two faced (DRY SKIN)
Water, cyclopentasiloxane, butylenes
(EMOLLIENT), glycol (FOR HYDRATION),
dicaprate, triethylhexanoin (HYDRATION),
isoamyl laurate (Emollient)
No laminating ingredient
Powders
- Carrier in the powder is ‘TALC’ (Base, gives
smooth finish, absorb some amount of water)
- SILICA (absorbs oil, highly important
ingredient) (WATER HYDROPHOBIC)
- MICA
- CLAY/KAOLIN (OIL ABSORB)
- NYLON – 12/6 (OIL ABSORB) (GRIPPOWDER
WITH FOUNDATION)
- DIOXIDES (AVOID SUN RAYS)
- Boron Nitride (PROVIDES GRIP AND
STICKINESS) (WATER HYDROPHOBIC)
- Dimethicone (WATER HYDROPHOBIC)
- Cross polymer (increases grip of silicon)
- Magnesium Myristate: improve makeup
adhesion, to help makeup last longer and
stay stuck to skin
Some will give matte finish but would not absorb oil

Some will set skin like with glow

Sprays:

Setting Sprays (hydrating) Fixers

Sequence

1. Water
2. Alcohol
3. Glycerine
4. Polymers (AMP, DVP, VP, COPOLYMER, CROSSPOLYMER)

If the sequence is

- Water
- Glycerine
- Glycol
- Triglyceride
- oil

What is a good fixer?

Extra product should be melted

Gives some hydration

Laminate and work a shield for makeup.

Melting will take place only through ‘Alcohol’ i.e. ‘volatile products’.

Locking of makeup depends on ‘polymers’.

Polymer based should be used majorly at the end process. But, can be used in between if
the makeup is creamy in the middle process.

Don't use hydrating spray in summer.

Radiant/ Luminous: gives shine

Self – Setting (consists of volatile ingredients that

evaporates itself)

(External factor) Temperature Control – Heat – humidity (estee lauder double wear
foundation tribehenin works with it)

Oil Control: will not allow the oil to get out of the skin
(Dimethicone) leads to acne sometimes
(internal factor)

Mattifying – clay, silica, (oil absorber) (internal factor)

Hydrating: works well with dry skin

Grip Primers

Mixing foundations and concealers

GRIP PRIMER:

1. Help skin to become sticky: it is in gel form like milk hydro grip primer (use on skin). Use in
normal circumstances in all weather and all skin types.

PRO TIP: NEVER USE OIL OR SILICONE BASED MOISTURISER, ONLY USED WATER – BASED.

2. Help makeup to stick: PAC AQUA GRIP, MAGIC DROP, Duraline (not helpful, can remove other
layers). (use as mixture).

- If the foundation is not long – lasting and you want a strong layer, then you can mix two
three drops in the foundation of it to make it settle. If the client wants a really strong hold for
the whole day.
- USE ANY MOISTURIZER.
- IF THE CLIENT HAS TOO DRY SKIN.

Pro tip: should not use both at the same time, use one.

You can mix any primer and foundation but cannot layer over each other.