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WHITE WINE TECHNOLOGY
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WHITE WINE
TECHNOLOGY
Edited by
ANTONIO MORATA
UPM, Chemistry and Food Technology Department, Escuela Técnica Superior de Ingenierı́a Agronómica,
Alimentaria y de Biosistemas, Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, Madrid, Spain
Academic Press is an imprint of Elsevier
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This book and the individual contributions contained in it are protected under copyright by the Publisher (other than as may be noted herein).
Notices
Knowledge and best practice in this field are constantly changing. As new research and experience broaden our understanding, changes in
research methods, professional practices, or medical treatment may become necessary.
Practitioners and researchers must always rely on their own experience and knowledge in evaluating and using any information, methods,
compounds, or experiments described herein. In using such information or methods they should be mindful of their own safety and the safety of
others, including parties for whom they have a professional responsibility.
To the fullest extent of the law, neither the Publisher nor the authors, contributors, or editors, assume any liability for any injury and/or damage
to persons or property as a matter of products liability, negligence or otherwise, or from any use or operation of any methods, products,
instructions, or ideas contained in the material herein.
ISBN: 978-0-12-823497-6
v
vi Contents
17. White wine polyphenols and health 205 21. Barrel aging of white wines 269
CELESTINO SANTOS-BUELGA, SUSANA GONZÁLEZ-MANZANO
FERNANDO ZAMORA
AND ANA M. GONZÁLEZ-PARAMÁS
18. Enzyme applications in white wine 221 22. Use of different wood species for white
ANTONIO ÁLAMO AROCA, ISABELLE VAN ROLLEGHEM AND
wine production: wood composition and impact
REMI SCHNEIDER on wine quality 281
ANTÓNIO M. JORDÃO AND JORGE M. RICARDO-DA-SILVA
18.1 Introduction to wine enzymes 221
18.2 Enzyme origin, production, nomenclature, 22.1 Introduction 281
and regulation 222 22.2 Composition of different wood species 283
18.3 Enzymes in winemaking 226 22.3 Different wood species used in white wine
18.4 Enzyme application in white wine 230 production 288
18.5 Conclusions 236 22.4 Final remarks 295
References 237 References 295
viii Contents
23. Impacts of phenolics and prefermentation 26.4 White winemaking with skin contact 344
antioxidant additions on wine aroma 301 26.5 Protein stability in white wines 346
PAUL KILMARTIN 26.6 Icewine production and factors impacting the
aroma profile 348
23.1 Introduction 301 26.7 Conclusion 350
23.2 Polyphenol oxidation 301 References 350
23.3 Oxidation effects on aroma compounds 303
23.4 Influence of wine antioxidants 304
23.5 Enzymatic oxidation of musts 305 27. White winemaking in cold regions with
23.6 Applications of antioxidants at harvest 307 short maturity periods in Northwest China 355
23.7 Concluding remarks 309 TENGZHEN MA, SHUNYU HAN, BO ZHANG,
References 310 FAISAL EUDES SAM, WEI LI AND JUNXIANG ZHANG
25. Inertization and bottling 327 28. Dealcoholization of white wines 369
MARK STROBL
MATTHIAS SCHMITT AND MONIKA CHRISTMANN
Diederich Aguilar-Machado Department of Animal K. Chen College of Food Science & Nutritional
Production and Food Science, Food Technology, Engineering, China Agricultural University, Beijing,
Faculty of Veterinary, Instituto Agroalimentario de P. R. China
Aragón — IA2— (University of Zaragoza-CITA), Monika Christmann Institute of Oenologie, Hochschule
Zaragoza, Spain Geisenheim University, Geisenheim, Germany
Ignacio Álvarez Department of Animal Production and Maurizio Ciani Department of Life and Environmental
Food Science, Food Technology, Faculty of Veterinary, Sciences, Polytechnic University of Marche, Ancona, Italy
Instituto Agroalimentario de Aragón — IA2— (University Francesca Comitini Department of Life and Environmental
of Zaragoza-CITA), Zaragoza, Spain Sciences, Polytechnic University of Marche, Ancona, Italy
Jenny Andrea-Silva Chemistry Research Centre-Vila Real Piergiorgio Comuzzo Department of Agricultural, Food,
(CQ-VR), Food and Wine Chemistry Laboratory, Environmental and Animal Sciences (Di4A), University of
University of Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro, Vila Real, Udine, Udine, Italy
Portugal; Adega Cooperativa de Figueira de Castelo Fernanda Cosme Chemistry Research Centre-Vila Real
Rodrigo, Portugal (CQ-VR), Food and Wine Chemistry Laboratory,
Antonio Álamo Aroca Oenobrands SAS, Montferrier sur University of Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro, Vila Real,
Lez, France Portugal; Biology and Environment Department, School of
Life Sciences and Environment, University of Trás-os-
Marı́a Antonia Bañuelos enotecUPM, Biotechnology-Plant Montes and Alto Douro, Vila Real, Portugal
Biology Department, Universidad Politécnica de Madrid,
D. Cozzolino Centre for Nutrition and Food Sciences,
Campus Ciudad Universitaria, Madrid, Spain;
Queensland Alliance for Agriculture and Food Innovation
enotecUPM, Biotechnology-Plant Biology Department,
(QAAFI), The University of Queensland, Brisbane, QLD,
Technical University of Madrid, Madrid, Spain
Australia
Ana Belén Bautista-Ortı́n Department of Food Science and
Rafael Cuerda Bodegas Comenge, Valladolid, Spain
Technology, University of Murcia, Campus de Espinardo,
Murcia, Spain Juan Manuel Del Fresno enotecUPM, Chemistry and Food
Technology Department, Technical University of Madrid,
Eduardo Boido Oenology and Fermentation Biotechnology
Madrid, Spain
Unit, Food Science and Technology Department, School of
Chemistry, Universidad de la Republica, Montevideo, Eduardo Dellacassa Laboratory of Aroma Biotechnology,
Uruguay School of Chemistry, Universidad de la Republica,
Montevideo, Uruguay
Andreea Botezatu The Horticulture Department, Texas
A&M AgriLife Extension Service, Texas A&M University, Carlota Delso Department of Animal Production and Food
College Station, TX, United States Science, Food Technology, Faculty of Veterinary, Instituto
Agroalimentario de Aragón — IA2— (University of
Laura Canonico Department of Life and Environmental
Zaragoza-CITA), Zaragoza, Spain
Sciences, Polytechnic University of Marche, Ancona, Italy
Mateo Cardona Winery Designer and Consultant, Krean S. Carlos Escott enotecUPM, Chemistry and Food Technology
Department, Technical University of Madrid, Madrid,
Coop, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Spain
Francisco Carrau Oenology and Fermentation
Biotechnology Unit, Food Science and Technology Sergi Ferrer Institute of Biotechnology and Biomedicine
Department, School of Chemistry, Universidad de la (BioTecMed) and Department of Microbiology and
Republica, Montevideo, Uruguay; Center for Biomedical Ecology, University of Valencia, Valencia, Spain
Research (CEINBIO), School of Medicine, Universidad de Luı́s Filipe-Ribeiro Chemistry Research Centre-Vila Real
la Republica, Montevideo, Uruguay (CQ-VR), Food and Wine Chemistry Laboratory,
Hannah Charnock Department of Biological Sciences, University of Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro, Vila Real,
Faculty of Mathematics and Science, Brock University, St. Portugal
Catharines, ON, Canada Vincenzo Gerbi Department of Agricultural, Forest and
Gianella Chávez-Segura Agroindustrial Engineering Food Sciences, University of Turin, Turin, Italy
Program, Universidad Privada del Norte (UPN), Trujillo, Simone Giacosa Department of Agricultural, Forest and
Peru Food Sciences, University of Turin, Turin, Italy
ix
x List of contributors
Encarna Gómez-Plaza Department of Food Science and J. Li College of Food Science & Nutritional Engineering,
Technology, University of Murcia, Campus de Espinardo, China Agricultural University, Beijing, P. R. China
Murcia, Spain
Wei Li College of Food Science and Engineering, Gansu
Carmen González enotecUPM, Chemistry and Food Agricultural University, Lanzhou, P.R. China; Gansu Key
Technology Department, Universidad Politécnica de Laboratory of Viticulture and Enology, Lanzhou,
Madrid, Campus Ciudad Universitaria, Madrid, Spain; P.R. China
enotecUPM, Chemistry and Food Technology
Department, Technical University of Madrid, Madrid, Iris Loira enotecUPM, Chemistry and Food Technology
Spain Department, Technical University of Madrid, Madrid,
Spain; enotecUPM, Chemistry and Food Technology
Lucı́a González-Arenzana Institute of Grapevine and Wine
Department, Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, Campus
Science (Government of La Rioja, University of La Rioja
Ciudad Universitaria, Madrid, Spain
and Superior Council of Scientific Investigations), La
Rioja, Logroño, Spain Tengzhen Ma College of Food Science and Engineering,
Gansu Agricultural University, Lanzhou, P.R. China;
Susana González-Manzano Polyphenols Research Group
Gansu Key Laboratory of Viticulture and Enology,
(GIP-USAL), University of Salamanca, Campus Miguel de
Lanzhou, P.R. China
Unamuno, Salamanca, Spain; Unit of Excellence
Agricultural Production and Environment Manuel Malfeito-Ferreira Linking Landscape Environment
(AGRIENVIRONMENT), Scientific Park, University of Agriculture and Food Research Center (LEAF), Instituto
Salamanca, Salamanca, Spain Superior de Agronomia, Universidade de Lisboa, Lisbon,
Portugal
Ana M. González-Paramás Polyphenols Research Group
(GIP-USAL), University of Salamanca, Campus Miguel de Richard Marchal Laboratoire d’Oenologie de Chimie
Unamuno, Salamanca, Spain; Unit of Excellence Appliquée, Unité de Recherche Vignes et Vins de
Agricultural Production and Environment Champagne (URVVC), Reims, France
(AGRIENVIRONMENT), Scientific Park, University of Valentina Martin Oenology and Fermentation
Salamanca, Salamanca, Spain Biotechnology Unit, Food Science and Technology
Buenaventura Guamis Centre d’Innovació, Recerca i Department, School of Chemistry, Universidad de la
Transferència en Tecnologia dels Aliments (CIRTTA), Republica, Montevideo, Uruguay
TECNIO, XaRTA, Departament de Ciència Animal i dels Juan Manuel Martı́nez Department of Animal Production
Aliments, Facultat de Veterinària, Autonomous University and Food Science, Food Technology, Faculty of
of Barcelona, Bellaterra, Spain Veterinary, Instituto Agroalimentario de Aragón — IA2—
Shunyu Han College of Food Science and Engineering, (University of Zaragoza-CITA), Zaragoza, Spain
Gansu Agricultural University, Lanzhou, P.R. China; Juana Martı́nez Institute of Grapevine and Wine Science
Gansu Key Laboratory of Viticulture and Enology, (Government of La Rioja, University of La Rioja and
Lanzhou, P.R. China; China Wine Industry Technology Superior Council of Scientific Investigations), La Rioja,
Institute, Yinchuan, P.R. China Logroño, Spain
José Marı́a Heras Lallemand Ibérica SL., Madrid, Spain Marcos Maza National University of Cuyo, Faculty of
L. Iacumin Department of Agricultural, Food, Agricultural Sciences, Department of Oenological and
Environmental and Animal Sciences (Di4A), University of Food Sciences, Mendoza, Argentina
Udine, Udine, Italy Karina Medina Oenology and Fermentation Biotechnology
Debra Inglis Department of Biological Sciences, Faculty of Unit, Food Science and Technology Department, School of
Mathematics and Science, Brock University, St. Chemistry, Universidad de la Republica, Montevideo,
Catharines, ON, Canada; Cool Climate Oenology & Uruguay
Viticulture Institute (CCOVI), Brock University, St. Antonio Morata enotecUPM, Chemistry and Food
Catharines, ON, Canada Technology Department, Technical University of Madrid,
António M. Jordão Polytechnic Institute of Viseu, Agrarian Madrid, Spain; enotecUPM, Chemistry and Food
Higher School, Viseu, Portugal.Chemistry Research Technology Department, Universidad Politécnica de
Centre (CQ-VR) - Food and Wine Chemistry Lab, Vila Madrid, Campus Ciudad Universitaria, Madrid, Spain
Real, Portugal Jean-Roch Mouret SPO-Sciences For Enology, Univ
Belinda Kemp Department of Biological Sciences, Faculty Montpellier, Montpellier SupAgro, Montpellier, France
of Mathematics and Science, Brock University, St. Fernando M. Nunes Chemistry Research Centre-Vila Real
Catharines, ON, Canada; Cool Climate Oenology & (CQ-VR), Food and Wine Chemistry Laboratory,
Viticulture Institute (CCOVI), Brock University, St. University of Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro, Vila Real,
Catharines, ON, Canada Portugal; Chemistry Department, School of Life Sciences
Paul Kilmartin School of Chemical Sciences, University of and Environment, University of Trás-os-Montes and Alto
Auckland, Auckland, New Zealand Douro, Vila Real, Portugal
List of contributors xi
Pablo Ossorio Winemaker and Oenology Consultant, Matthias Schmitt Institute of Oenologie, Hochschule
Hispano-Suizas Cellar, Valencia, Spain Geisenheim University, Geisenheim, Germany
Maria Alessandra Paissoni Department of Agricultural, Remi Schneider Oenobrands SAS, Montpellier sur Lez,
Forest and Food Sciences, University of Turin, Turin, Italy France
Isabel Pardo Institute of Biotechnology and Biomedicine Mark Strobl Hochschule Geisenheim University,
(BioTecMed) and Department of Microbiology and Geisenheim, Germany
Ecology, University of Valencia, Valencia, Spain José Antonio Suárez-Lepe enotecUPM, Chemistry and
Paula Pérez-Porras Department of Food Science and Food Technology Department, Technical University of
Technology, University of Murcia, Campus de Espinardo, Madrid, Madrid, Spain; enotecUPM, Chemistry and Food
Murcia, Spain Technology Department, Universidad Politécnica de
Luis Javier Pérez-Prieto Department of Food Science and Madrid, Campus Ciudad Universitaria, Madrid, Spain
Technology, University of Murcia, Campus de Espinardo, Maria Jose Valera Oenology and Fermentation
Murcia, Spain Biotechnology Unit, Food Science and Technology
Gary Pickering Department of Biological Sciences, Faculty of Department, School of Chemistry, Universidad de la
Mathematics and Science, Brock University, St. Catharines, Republica, Montevideo, Uruguay
ON, Canada; Cool Climate Oenology & Viticulture Isabelle van Rolleghem Oenobrands SAS, Montferrier sur
Institute (CCOVI), Brock University, St. Catharines, ON, Lez, France
Canada; National Wine and Grape Industry Centre, Cristian Vaquero enotecUPM, Chemistry and Food
Charles Sturt University, Wagga Wagga, NSW, Australia Technology Department, Universidad Politécnica de
A. Power CREST Technology Gateway of TU Dublin, Madrid, Campus Ciudad Universitaria, Madrid, Spain
Dublin, Ireland Ricardo Vejarano Dirección de Investigación y Desarrollo,
Isak S. Pretorius ARC Centre of Excellence in Synthetic Universidad Privada del Norte (UPN), Trujillo, Peru
Biology, Macquarie University, Sydney, NSW, Australia Aude Vernhet SPO, Univ Montpellier, INRAE, Institut
Javier Raso Department of Animal Production and Food Agro, Montpellier, France
Science, Food Technology, Faculty of Veterinary, Instituto Sabrina Voce Department of Agricultural, Food,
Agroalimentario de Aragón — IA2— (University of Environmental and Animal Sciences (Di4A), University of
Zaragoza-CITA), Zaragoza, Spain Udine, Udine, Italy
Jorge M. Ricardo-da-Silva LEAF - Linking Landscape, James Willwerth Department of Biological Sciences,
Environment, Agriculture and Food, Universidade de Faculty of Mathematics and Science, Brock University, St.
Lisboa, Instituto Superior de Agronomia, Lisboa, Portugal Catharines, ON, Canada; Cool Climate Oenology &
Susana Rı́o Segade Department of Agricultural, Forest and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI), Brock University, St.
Food Sciences, University of Turin, Turin, Italy Catharines, ON, Canada
Luca Rolle Department of Agricultural, Forest and Food Fei Yang Cool Climate Oenology & Viticulture Institute
Sciences, University of Turin, Turin, Italy (CCOVI), Brock University, St. Catharines, ON, Canada
Jean-Marie Sablayrolles SPO-Sciences For Enology, Univ Fernando Zamora Department of Biochemistry and
Montpellier, Montpellier SupAgro, Montpellier, France Biotechnology, Faculty of Oenology, University Rovira i
Virgili, Tarragona, Spain
Faisal Eudes Sam College of Food Science and
Engineering, Gansu Agricultural University, Lanzhou, Bo Zhang College of Food Science and Engineering, Gansu
P.R. China; Gansu Key Laboratory of Viticulture and Agricultural University, Lanzhou, P.R. China; Gansu
Enology, Lanzhou, P.R. China Key Laboratory of Viticulture and Enology, Lanzhou,
P.R. China
Celestino Santos-Buelga Polyphenols Research Group
(GIP-USAL), University of Salamanca, Campus Miguel de Junxiang Zhang China Wine Industry Technology Institute,
Unamuno, Salamanca, Spain; Unit of Excellence Yinchuan, P.R. China; Wine School, Ningxia University,
Agricultural Production and Environment Yinchuan, P.R. China
(AGRIENVIRONMENT), Scientific Park, University of
Salamanca, Salamanca, Spain
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Prologue
White Wine Technology (WWT) is the logical continuation and the evolution of the previous and successful
Red Wine Technology (RWT). Like RWT, it covers a gap in the specialized literature on enology by being highly
specialized in the enology, microbiology, and chemistry of white wines with special concern for new trends in
white winemaking and the use of emerging technologies and advanced biotechnologies. The elaboration of white
wines has too many specificities and thus constitutes an independent discipline. The gentle extraction of the
juices is essential to reduce the content of phenolic compounds while avoiding astringency and bitterness.
Additionally, the delicate phenolic constitution of white wines makes them especially sensitive to oxidative pro-
cesses, and they must therefore be protected during winemaking, aging, and storage.
WWT includes not only the advanced knowledge needed to make high-quality white wines but also specific
topics that are currently trending in white winemaking. The book is structured into 29 chapters written by
knowledgeable experts from prestigious universities, research centers, and wineries from 11 countries and four
continents from traditional and emerging growing areas. Most of them are located in wine areas because most of
the world’s vineyard surface is located in warm regions, but the specifics of cold regions are also included, cov-
ered by experts from Canada and northern China.
The assessment of grape quality is described including the main parameters and the evaluation of composi-
tion, health, and potential contaminants describing current analytical techniques and sensory evaluation. The use
of hyperspectral imaging (HSI) is also extensively detailed, explaining the technique and the applications to con-
trol not only vineyards but also the quality of the grape. HSI is increasingly used due to the high-throughput and
noninvasive applications that can be developed to control grape composition and quality. Alternative antioxidant
products to reduce SO2 levels are now a trend due to their allergenic effects. Among them, glutathione is being
widely used to control oxidations in white grapes and wines.
Preprocessing techniques of grapes are addressed, including traditional systems as well as new perspectives of
emerging technologies. The conventional but discontinuous extraction of the must by crushing and pressing the
grapes with high-quality inert pneumatic presses produces high-quality juices, but it is a slow step and a bottle-
neck in the process. Traditionally, continuous extractions using dejuicers and continuous screw presses produced
low-quality juices, but now the use of horizontal decanters is a gentle technology used to continuously separate
high-quality must from the crushed grapes. Innovative processing of white grapes and juices includes the use of
emerging technologies such as ultra high pressure homogenization (UHPH), pulsed electric fields (PEF), or ultra-
sounds (US) that open new perspectives to obtaining high-quality juices in continuous processes and, in some of
them, with the possibility to control microorganisms or oxidative enzymes. After obtaining the raw juice, the
design of suitable settling processes is also essential for the quality of white wine. Flotation, cold settling, and
other techniques are described in a specific chapter.
New fermentation biotechnologies are covered by describing the use of non-Saccharomyces that are now exten-
sively used in the fermentation of white wines. The use of Hanseniaspora vineae is specifically discussed because
of its great impact on the aroma and body of wines from neutral varieties. The general use of the main non-
Saccharomyces in fermentation is also described in a specific chapter. The use of Lachancea thermotolerans is
described in a specific chapter for its applications to control pH and improve freshness in wines from warm
areas. Nitrogen management in fermentation is essential to produce high-quality wines and to avoid sluggish or
stuck fermentations, especially in reductive conditions at low temperatures. A chapter describes in depth nitro-
gen nutrition and its impact on fermentation. Synthetic biology and the genetic engineering of wine yeasts,
including advanced innovative molecular techniques such as CRISPRCas9 are specifically addressed. And finally,
concerning white wine biotechnology, and although not always used, the main applications of malolactic fermen-
tation with an effect on sensory improvement or acidification are also studied.
Pinking is a hot topic in some white wines and the formation or revealing of anthocyanins in some white vari-
eties has recently been studied. Updated information explaining the varieties affected and the influence of the
xiii
xiv Prologue
process conditions is included in this topic. The prevention of the light-struck taste in white wine is also a typical
concern. The management of this alteration is clearly described. White wines have lower levels of polyphenols,
compounds with antioxidant properties and a high impact on health, than red wines. Even considering their
lower content, the amount and effect of white wine polyphenols have been analyzed in an updated review.
Enzymes are powerful biotools in many winemaking processes, the use of which encompasses the pretreat-
ment of grapes, extraction and release of aroma compounds, extraction of polyphenols, facilitation of technologi-
cal processes, aging, and minimization of alterations. Their production, specifications, and wine utilities are
extensively studied. The use of near-infrared (NIR) technologies is increasing nowadays due to the simplicity,
robustness, noninvasive analysis, and many other features that make it a fast and efficient technique to assess
grape and wine quality and alterations.
White wines are usually consumed as young wines, but many high-quality whites are produced by biological
(lees contact) or physicochemical (barrel) aging. Aging on lees (AOL) increases wine body and palatability and,
at the same time, improves aroma and protects the varietal smell as it is a reductive process. The applications of
AOL have been described, especially the impact on quality. Additionally, the use of barrel aging and the advan-
tages and drawbacks on wine sensory profile and quality have been assessed. Alternative wood species to oak
have recently been incorporated into winemaking, and their applications and advantages are described in a spe-
cific chapter.
Aroma is a key perception in the sensory profile of wine with a clear impact on quality. Emerging techniques
to protect and improve wine aroma using phenolics and other alternative antioxidants have been evaluated in
depth. Furthermore, the impact of aroma compounds on wine quality has been described taking into account
their origin and properties. An essential technological process to preserve wine aroma is the use of inertization
technologies and bottling methods to preserve wine aroma and color at an optimal level.
Although wine production is mainly extended in warm areas, wines from cool regions have really interesting
properties and specific sensory profiles. The specificities of winemaking in cold areas are included in two chap-
ters focusing on the northern regions of Canada and China. The special management of viticulture, winemaking,
and the ways to control the unsuitable maturity of grapes are reviewed. The use of ancient practices such as bur-
ied viticulture in extremely cold regions to ensure the survival of the vine during winter is also described.
Alcohol content in wines is always a controversial aspect for considering healthy beverages. The use of dealco-
holization technologies can produce alternative wine products that keep the healthy properties together with a
suitable sensory profile. The current technological possibilities to dealcoholize wines have been thoroughly
described.
Lastly, wine tasting and sensory perception are key aspects of wine quality. The neurophysiological basis of
the sensory perception and all the considerations affecting sensory sensation and emotion are extensively
detailed in an indepth review chapter.
An edited book is a really complex work of design, selection of key topics, finding the right experts, coordina-
tion, and management; more than 500 emails are in my inbox regarding this book. I would like to acknowledge
all the prestigious and knowledgeable professors and experts who have contributed because they have made
chapters of the highest quality and some of them in very stressful situations. The quality of this book is due to
their work and expertise. Special thanks to my colleagues in the Food Technology Department of the
Universidad Politécnica de Madrid for their help and understanding during the edition of the book and for their
useful advice, especially to professors José Antonio Suárez, Karen González, Iris Loira, Felipe Palomero, Marı́a
Jesús Callejo, Marı́a Antonia Bañuelos, and Carmen López; to postdoctoral researchers Carlos Escott and Juan
Manuel del Fresno; and to Ph.D. students Cristian Vaquero and Natalia Gutiérrez. I am grateful to Patricia
Osborn, Senior Editor at Elsevier, for her confidence in me again as the editor of WWT and for her support
throughout the entire project in the elaboration of this amazing new book. My gratitude also to Devlin Person,
Senior Editorial Project Manager at Elsevier, for her full support and kindness in helping me to manage the edit-
ing of all the chapters. And finally, but especially, to my family: Cari, Jaime, and Marı́a; most of the time in this
book belongs to them.
C H A P T E R
1
Assessment and control of grape maturity
and quality
Luca Rolle, Susana Rı́o Segade, Maria Alessandra Paissoni, Simone Giacosa
and Vincenzo Gerbi
Department of Agricultural, Forest and Food Sciences, University of Turin, Turin, Italy
To achieve high quality in white wine production, it is necessary to obtain grapes presenting optimal composi-
tional parameters. In this sense, vineyard management is of primary importance together with the choice of har-
vest time. In fact, the basis of wine characteristics is intrinsically confined in the grape quality, and the wide
diversity in white wine grape chemical composition is of major technological importance, as each cultivar
requires dedicated enological adaptation of the winemaking technique. Depending on the white grape variety to
be vinified, the grape chemical-physical characteristics at the harvest, and the style of the desired “wine” type, it
is possible to carry out different enological strategies with specific technological variants of classic winemaking
(i.e., without the solid parts of the grapes), such as cryomaceration and pellicular maceration or even by carrying
out a more or less prolonged maceration (Orange wines, Kwevri wines). Moreover, the vinification can be carried
out with specific oxygen management of the must (reductive winemaking, partial oxygen protection, hyperoxy-
genation), possible variants in the fermentation strategies, sur lies aging of wines, and/or the use of wood. The
possibility of diversification of the enological technique allows the full valorization of the acquired peculiarities
of the grapes from each specific vineyard.
Nowadays, in an ever more competitive and demanding white wine market, even in globally enologically rec-
ognized and established areas, producers are always seeking new and original products. Indeed, against the asso-
ciated effects of climate change that strongly impacts the performances of the grapes at harvest (Mira de Orduña,
2010), the viticulture and enology sector is asked to perpetually reconsider the choice of the ampelographic basis,
define the most suitable grape level of ripeness to reach depending on the prefixed enological goals, and choose
the most suitable vineyard management strategies in order to obtain the desired grape qualitative characteristics.
In particular, referring to the varietal choice to make, it follows that companies often need to turn to imported
cultivars, in the scope of singular national enologies. Nevertheless, in more recent times and more particularly
for some specific geographical areas of Europe, the rediscovery and valorization of autochthonous or lesser
known cultivars have recently gained traction, drawing from white grape’s germplasms of national Vitis vinifera
L., whose valorization cannot however leave aside the knowledge of respective chemical-physical characteristics
or relative enological attitudes. In fact, diversity within the grape species is expressed in thousands of vegeta-
tively propagated genotypes differing in the concentration of the various classes of primary and secondary meta-
bolites and in their chemical profiles (i.e., the relative concentration of individual metabolites).
Over the decades, the concept of grape quality has evolved, emphasizing its multidisciplinary nature and that
the same “desired quality” might correspond to even strikingly different compositional patterns (Poni et al.,
2018). In particular, white grape “quality” at harvest derives from the compositive balance of several primary
and secondary metabolites: sugars, organic acids, nitrogenous and mineral substances, polyphenols, and aroma
compounds and their precursors. Alongside these chemical qualitative factors of grapes, recently, many studies
have also drawn attention to the physical characteristics of grapes, and more specifically to the so-called mechan-
ical properties of grapes (Rolle, Siret, et al., 2012). In fact, grape berries undergo numerous physiological and bio-
chemical changes during ripening, which induce texture modifications. Hardness and thickness of the berry skin
may differentiate the response of individual varieties to climate adversities and to phytopathologies during their
ripening period on the vine. These mechanical properties are the expression of the variety and the level of ripe-
ness reached (Rı́o Segade, Orriols, Giacosa, & Rolle, 2011). However, the influence of annual climate variations
on skin hardness is also a consequence of the genotypeenvironment interaction (Rolle, Gerbi, Schneider,
Spanna, & Rı́o Segade, 2011). Moreover, abiotic and biotic factors and elicitors may induce differences in the
berry skin tissues. The water regimes in vineyard management (Giordano et al., 2013), the use of specific inacti-
vated yeast extract distribution during grape véraison (Giacosa et al., 2019b), the presence of Botrytis cinerea in
noble rot form (Rolle, Giordano, et al., 2012), the use of the cane-cut system in the on-vine withering process
(Giacosa et al., 2019a), and the application of an ozone-modified atmosphere for off-vine postharvest treatment
(Laureano et al., 2016; Rı́o Segade et al., 2019) are examples of how the viticultural and enological technique can
have an impact on the physicalmechanical characteristics of the grapes before their vinification, and conse-
quently, it can change and/or regulate their enological performances and the eventual relative maceration
strategy.
As exhaustively reported in the scientific literature, the vine synthesis of metabolites and their accumulation
during ripening in the berry are highly dependent on the cultivar genotype (Kuhn et al., 2014; Teixeira, Eiras-
Dias, Castellarin, & Gerós, 2013). The accumulation of these compounds is influenced by the grapevine response
to growing conditions and particular treatments as a result of the interaction among genetic characteristics, envi-
ronmental conditions, and cultural practices (Poni et al., 2018). Therefore ripeness grade, soil type, seasonal cli-
matic conditions, agronomicalcultural practices, and growing location are important factors that affect the
chemical composition of grapes, including some aspects whose importance is often underestimated by viticultur-
ists such as protein content and enzymatic activities (Fortea, López-Miranda, Serrano-Martı́nez, Carreño, &
Núñez-Delicado, 2009; López-Miranda et al., 2011) or antioxidant activities (Samotica, Jara-Palacios, Hernández-
Hierro, Heredia, & Wojdylo, 2018). To improve grape quality chemical characteristics, different canopy techni-
ques, such as training systems, bunch thinning, and defoliation, have been developed in the vineyard to modify
the reducing sugar and organic acid composition and to increase the content of secondary metabolites in grapes
at harvest (Alem, Rigou, Schneider, Ojeda, & Torregrosa, 2019; Poni et al., 2018).
FIGURE 1.1 Evolution of the average total soluble solids content (Brix degree) in California grape productions, detected at grape crushing.
Source: Data from USDA (2020).
vintage. Apart from the general trend, by comparing the values at harvest for the top seven varieties by tonnage
(in the year 2019), it is interesting to note that each variety tended to position itself in a defined range. For
instance, Chardonnay showed the highest Brix values of this group in all years surveyed (except 1994 and 1995),
followed by Sauvignon blanc and Muscat of Alexandria (the latter included in the report from the year 1995).
Two varieties, namely Pinot gris and White Riesling, showed variable values in the monitored period. Lastly,
other varieties such as Chenin blanc and French Colombard accounted for values mainly in the range of 19.521
Brix. Indeed, it might be hypothesized that the large number of factors (environmental, viticultural, economic,
etc.) involved in the ripeness degree choice for harvest had a great role in shaping this registered trend.
Concerning other primary berry metabolites, in order to have balanced wines from a tasting perspective, it
becomes evidently important to harvest the grapes with the correct amount of organic acids, with the right bal-
ance between tartaric and malic acid contents. These two acids represent the major share of the titratable acidity
(TA) of grape musts and wines, and their concentrations undergo significant changes during grape ripening due
to the increase in juice volume and, in the case of malic acid, also due to degradation phenomena (Ruffner,
1982a, 1982b). Furthermore, they are instrumental in determining the grape juice, must, and wine pH, together
with the concentration of cations such as potassium (Mpelasoka, Schachtman, Treeby, & Thomas, 2003).
In the recent climate change context with very different climatic conditions from one harvest to another in
terms of temperatures and water regimes, in order to find the correct balance between these “technological para-
meters” for each variety and growing location, it is necessary to have high knowledge about the behaviors that
bind the factors of genotype-environment-vine management together (Poni et al., 2018). Regarding these para-
meters, as it has become clearer since the eighties, the sugaracidity balance remains of great importance for the
grape ripeness monitoring, but other characteristics such as aroma may not be on the same ripeness evolution
and need the right consideration in determining the harvest date (Coombe, Dundon, & Short, 1980).
are important because they determine the dose and type of enological processing aids used for reducing the colloi-
dal content of must/wine. In any case, removing proteins, clarifying, and fining treatments, particularly with ben-
tonite, can lead to both direct and indirect removal of aroma molecules originating from the grapes (Vincenzi,
Panighel, Gazzola, Flamini, & Curioni, 2015).
Among the vitamins present in grapes at harvest, riboflavin (RF) acts as a photosensitizer in many beverages,
including white wine. The RF level in the grape is usually lower than few tens of μg/L of grape juice (Ribéreau-
Gayon, Glories, Maujean, & Dubourdieu, 2006), but it can increase during winemaking mainly due to the
metabolic activity of the different Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains (Fracassetti, Limbo, Pellegrino, & Tirelli, 2019).
In bottled wines, RF can be involved in light-induced reactions, affecting changes in volatile compounds, color,
and flavor, known as light-struck taste (LST). The LST is a fault occurring in light-exposed white wines contain-
ing methionine and a high concentration of RF, bottled in clear or transparent bottles. These conditions induce
the formation of methanethiol and dimethyl disulfide, which are responsible for the defect resulting in a “cab-
bage-like” aroma (Fracassetti et al., 2017).
m
م
madd ⎱ 28 Dianthera e) trisulca s.
Madh مضod. مظ Anisotes trisulcus Nees.
mads ⎰ CIII u. s. 7
n
ن
nab' Nabbá نبع338 Chadara a) tenax. s. Grewia populifolia V.
CXIV u. s. 105
nachl Nachl نخل692 Phoenix a) dactylifera Phoenix dactylifera L.
s. CXXVI
nahhu Nachu نحو211 Sison ammi s. CIX Apium sp.?
naqūss Nakus نقوسXXIX Nakus s. 197 Euclea Forsskalii Schwf.
nārgīl Nardjîl 691 Cocos nucifera s. Cocos nucifera L.
CXXVI
natssaf Nasaf نصفXVII Nasaf s. 196 sp. dubia
naufar Naufar نوفر508 Tagetes a) erecta s. Tagetes erecta L.
CXIX
nede Naedae 250 Epilobium a) Epilobium hirsutum L.
angustifolium? s. CX
nefetss Naefaes نفص328 Rubus fruticosus s. Rubus arabicus (Defl.)
CXIII Schwf.
negā' ⎱ Naedjaa ⎱ 541 Urtica c) parasitica s. Pouzolzia parasitica
نجاع
nega'a ⎰ Naedjáa ⎰ CXXI u. s. 160 (Forsk.) Schwf.
o'
ا
q
ق
qabua-qaddī Kabua Kadi Keura odorifera s. 172 Pandanus odoratissimus L.
qaddb Kadb 465 Medicago falcata s. Medicago sativa L.
CXVIII
qaddī Kadi قضى276 Cadia s. CXI u. s. 90 Cadia purpurea Forsk.
qadsab Kadhab قظب138 Cadaba a) rotundifolia Cadaba rotundifolia Forsk.
s. CVI u. s. 68
qafal Kafal قفل256 Amyris c) kafal s. CX Commiphora erythraea
u. s. 80 (Ehrbg.) Engl.
qalqal Kolkol قلقلDolichos cuneifolius s. 134 Crotalaria retusa L.
qaradd Karad قرض604 Mimosa b) nilotica s. Acacia arabica W.
CXXIII
qāsch Kâsch قاشCitrullus s. 167 Citrullus edulis Schrad. var.
Kasch Forsk.
Gat ⎱ 155 Catha a) edulis s. 64 u.
qāth قات Catha edulis Forsk.
Kat oder Kath ⎰ s. CVII
qāt-er-re'jān Kat erraejân قات الرعيان475 Lactuca b) inermis s. Lactuca inermis Forsk.
CXVIII u. s. 144
qattab Kadhab قطبCadaba rotundifolia s. 68 Cadaba rotundifolia Forsk.
qattaf Kataf قطف255 Amyris b) kataf s. CX Commiphora kataf Engl.
u. s. 80
qattaf Kataf XXVII Kataf (falso sic dicta) sp. dubia
s. 197
qatam Katam قتم538 Buxus dioica s. 159 u. Myrsine dioica Aschers.
s. CXXI
qatssab Kassab قصب78 Arundo donax s. CIV u. Arundo Donax L.
s. 23. 24
qatssātss ⎱ Kassas ⎱ 307 Euphorbia c)
قصاص Euphorbia polyacantha B.?
qatssar ⎰ Kassar ⎰ canariensis s. CXII u. s. 94
r
ر
s
ز
sar' Zaraa 46 Cyperus c) globosus s. Cyperus cruentus Rottb.
CIII
sahr-ellēl Zàhr el laejl زهر الليل130 Mirabilis jalapa s. CVI Mirabilis Jalapa L.
sahr-es-sirr Zahr es zirr زهر الزر284 Dianthus uniflorus s. Dianthus pumilus V.
CXI
sambaq Zambak 233 Lilium album s. CIX Lilium album L.
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santt- Zant Habbeschi زنط حبشى207 Gomphraena globosa Gomphrena globosa L.
hhabeschī s. CIX
sēlām ⎱ Saelaam ⎱
سنعمAchyranthes papposa s. 48 Eurotia ceratoides Boiss.
sēnām ⎰ od. Saenaam ⎰
sch
ش
schagaret-el- Schadjaret el شجرة االثلب169 Achyranthes h) villosa Aerva lanata (L.) Boiss.
athleb athleb s. CVII u. s. 48
schagaret-el- Schadjaret el شجرة الحور430 Polygala b) bracteolata Polygala tinctoria V.
hhuer houer s. CXVII u. s. 213
schagaret-el- Schadjaret el شجرة المحبه539 Urtica a) palmata s. Girardinia condensata
mehabbe mehabbe CXXI u. s. 160 Wedd.
schagaret-el- Schadjaret el- شجرة المر257 Amyris schadjaret el Commiphora abyssinica
murr murr murr s. CX u. s. 80 Engl.?
schagaret- Schadjaret شجرة الهرنبVII Schadjaret elharneb s. sp. dubia
elharneb elharneb 195
schagaret-el- Schadjaret el 411 Sida b) parvaflore albo Sida sp.
uak uak s. CXVI
schagaret-en- Schadjaret شجرة النمر235 Asparagus retrofractus Asparagus africanus Lam.
nemr ennemr s. CIX u. s. 73
schagaret-er- Schadjaret شجرة الرعاف548 Amaranthus c) Amaranthus hybridus L.
ra'āf erraaf hybridus s. CXXI
schagaret-es- Schadjaret eszirr شجرة الزر364 Ocymum c) tenuiflorum Ocimum sanctum L.
sirr s. CXIV
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schāker-rabba Schaker rabba شاكر ربه650 Lycopodium a) Selaginella imbricata
imbricatum s. CXXV u. s. (Forsk.) Spring.
187
schamar Sekamar[19] 213 Anethum b) foeniculum Foeniculum capillaceum
s. CIX Gilib.
schandsaf Schandaf شنظف260 Erica scoparia s. CX Erica sp.?
schanss Schans شنسII Schans s. 194 sp. dubia
schanttob Schantob 179 Asclepias b) spiralis s. Pentatropis spiralis Dcne.
CVIII
schebette Schebette od. شبطه87 Galium aparinoides s. Galium aparinoides Forsk.
Schobodh CV u. s. 30
bodha
schechadd Schechadh Justicia appressa s. 6 Barleria Prionitis L.
schechadd Schechadd شخض14 Justicia c) bispinosa s. Barleria bispinosa V.
CII u. s. 6
schechar Schechar شخر13 Justicia b) trispinosa s. Barleria trispinosa V.
CII
schēch- Schech mahdjar 649 Adianthum b) capill. Adiantum capillus-veneris
mahhgar vener. s. CXXV L.
schedāb Schedâb شداب275 Ruta graveolens s. CXI Ruta chalepensis L.
schedach Schedach 546 Amaranthus a) blitum Amaranthus Blitum L.
s. CXXI
schedach- Schedach hindi 547 Amaranthus b) Amaranthus oleraceus L.
hindī oleraceus s. CXXI
sche'īr Schaeir 83 Hordeum hexastich. s. Hordeum hexastichon L.
CIV
schenaf Schenaf شنف111 Cynoglossum a) Cynoglossum lanceolatum
lanceolat. s. CV u. s. 41 Forsk.
scheqab Schekab شقبXV Schekab s. 196 sp. dubia
schēqar Schaegar شيقر331 Capparis a) Maerua oblongifolia R.
mithridatica s. CXIII u. s.
99
scherāg Scheradj شراج348 Clematis vitalba s. Clematis orientalis L.
CXIV u. s. 212
scher'attatt Scheratat شرعطط491 Gnaphalium b) Helichrysum cymosum
fruticosum flavum s. CXIX Less.
u. s. 218
schergega Scherdjedja 122 Ipomoea a) scabra s. Ipomoea scabra Forsk.
CVI u. s. 44
scherūr Schörur 306 Euphorbia officin. γ) Euphorbia fruticosa Forsk.
fruticosa s. CXII u. s. 94
scherūr Schörur 305 Euphorbia officinalis β) Euphorbia sp.
caespitosa s. CXII u. s. 94
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schibt Schibt 212 Anethum a) graveolens Anethum graveolens L.
s. CIX
schittēr Schiter Indigofera spicata s. 138 Indigofera endecaphylla
H.?
schobott-botta schobodh bodha 87 Galium aparinoides s. Galium aparinoides Forsk.
od. Schebette CV u. s. 30
schocham ⎱ Schocham ⎱ 77 Festuca mucronata s. Eragrostis pungens Bth.
شوخم
schūcham ⎰ Schoucham ⎰ CIV u. s. 22 Hook.
ss
س
ssabak Sabak 61 Panicum k) dactylon s. Cynodon Dactylon Rich.
CIV
ssabī' Sabia سبيع181 Asclepias d) setosa s. Gomphocarpus setosus
CVIII u. s. 51 R.Br.
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ssabī' Sabiá سبيع314 Euphorbia h) peplus s. Euphorbia peplus L.
CXII
ssāher Saher 72 Cynosurus a) ternatus s. Cynosurus ternatus Forsk.
CIV
ssāl Sâl سال317 Euphorbia l) aculeata Euphorbia aculeata Forsk.
s. CXII
ssāq-el-ghorāb Sak el ghorâb ساق الغراب192 Stapelia d) multangula Echidnopsis nubica N.E.Br.
s. CVIII u. s. 52
ssaqjet Sokaejt سقية12 Justicia a) lanceata s. Barleria noctiflora L.
CII u. s. 6
ssar Sar سرXIX Sar s. 196 Mimusops sp.?
ssa'tar Saatar سعتر359 Thymus a) serpyllum s. Thymus serpyllum L.
CXIV u. s. 107
ssausseb Sauseb سوسب315 Euphorbia i) esula s. Euphorbia monticola
CXII Hochst.
ssebak Saebak سبك390 Acanthus a) Blepharis boerhaviifolia
maderasp? s. CXV Pers.
ssēch Sech سيخ421 Hibiscus b) purpureus Hibiscus purpureus Forsk.
s. CXVII u. s. 126
ssēf Syjef سيف437 Dolichos a) Canavalia polystachya
polystachios s. 135 u. s. (Forsk.) Schwf.
CXVII
ssēf-er-robāhh Syjef er robah سيف الرباح437 Dolichos a) polystach. Canavalia polystachya
s. CXVII (Forsk.) Schwf.
sseheli Sehaeli 96 Cornus[20] sanguinea s. Cordia gharaf (Forsk.)
CV u. s. 33 Ehrbg.
t
ت
tebscha' Tebscha تبشع556 Ricinus communis s. Ricinus communis L.
CXXI
Taenaim ⎱ 139 Cadaba b) glandulosa
teneim Cadaba glandulosa Forsk.
Taennaim ⎰ s. CVI u. s. 68
th
ث
Thàab ⎱ 625 Ficus k) indica s.
tha'b ثعب Ficus salicifolia V.
Táab ⎰ CXXIV u. s. 179
tss
ص
tssabbāre Sabbâre صبارهAloe maculata s. 73 Aloe vera L.
tssabr Sabr 238 Aloe a) vera officinalis Aloe vera L. var. officinalis
s. CX u. s. 74 Forsk.
tssoqēqa Sokaejka صقيقه402 Cleome b) ornithopod. Cleome brevisiliqua Schult.
s. CXVI
tssottar Sotar صطر125 Ipomoea d) triflora s. Ipomoea triflora Forsk. (= I.
CVI u. s. 44 obscura Ker.)
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tt
ط
u
و
ua'lān Vaalan Commelina tuberosa s. 12 Aneilema Forsskalii Clarke
uāle Vaalae واله370 Ocymum i) vaalae s. Ocimum Vaalae Forsk.
CXV u. s. 111
uaraf Uaraf 144 Sideroxylon s. CVI u. Sideroxylon oxyacanthum
s. 204 Baill.
uard-ellēl Uard el laejl ورد الليل130 Mirabilis jalapa s. CVI Mirabilis Jalapa L.
'ūd-el-qarahh Oud el kârah عود القرح485 Cacalia d) sonchifolia Emilia sonchifolia D.C.
s. CXIX
'ūd-el-qarahh Oud el karah عود القرح498 Senecio b) hadiensis s. Senecio hadiensis Forsk.
CXIX
'ūd-ess-ssimm Oud essymm 331 Capparis a) Maerua oblongifolia R.
mithridatica s. CXIII u. s.
99
ueki Uaeki 283 Jussiaea edulis s. CXI Corchorus Antichorus R. S.
u. s. 210
'ujūn-en-nemr Öyun ennemr عيون النمرEvonymus inermis s. 204 Ochna inermis (Forsk.)
Schwf.
u'lān Uaalân وعالن37 Commelina a) commun. Commelina communis L.
s. CIII
uoqēdd-el- Voket el وقيض الحنش244 Haemanthus Haemanthus coccineus L.
hanasch hannasch coccineus s. CX u. s. 75
uoqēss Uokes 162 Achyranthes a) aspera Achyranthes aspera L.
s. CVII
'urrēg Örredj عريجRhamnus nabeca b) rectus Ziziphus spina-Christi L.
s. 204
uudahh Vudah ودح627 Acrostichum a) dichot. Actiniopteris dichotoma
s. CXXIV Mett.
uudáhh Vudáh Ficus religiosa s. 180 Ficus populifolia Vahl.
uugef Vuddjef 2 Boerhavia b) diandra s. Boerhavia repens L. var.
CII u. s. 3 diffusa L.
uusab Vusab 364 Ocymum c) tenuiflorum Ocimum sanctum L.
s. CXIV
uusar Uuzar 13 Justicia b) trispinosa s. Barleria trispinosa V.
CII u. s. 6
uusar Vusar Justicia caerulea s. 5 Justicia caerulea Forsk.
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uusar Uusar وزر20 Justicia i) paniculata s. Hypoestes paniculata
CII u. s. 4 (Forsk.) Schwf.
uusar Vuzar 414 Sida e) ciliata s. CXVI Sida ciliata Forsk.