The Rough Guides' Gran Canaria Directions 1 (Rough Guide Directions) ( PDFDrive )

ROUGHGUIDES
Rough Guide DIRECTIONS
Gran Canaria
Gran Canaria
DI R E C T I O N S
WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Neville Walker
NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

www.roughguides.com
2
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Contents
C ONT ENT S
Introduction 4 Las Palmas: Ciudad Jardín to
La Isleta ..................................... 65
Telde and around ............................ 80
The east coast ............................... 87
Ideas 9 The Cumbre ................................... 97
The big six ...................................... 10 The Costa Canaria ....................... 111
Six essential Gran Canaria The southwest coast ................... 131
experiences ................................. 12 The west coast and the
Gran Canaria after dark ................. 14 Andén Verde ............................. 144
Souvenir shopping .......................... 16 The north ..................................... 152
Cafés and bars ............................... 18
Romantic Gran Canaria ................... 20
Hotels ............................................ 22
Essentials 169
Restaurants ................................... 24
Food and drink .............................. 26
Folklore and festivals ..................... 28
Museums ...................................... 30 Language 181
Churches ....................................... 32
Landmarks .................................... 34
Outdoor activities ........................... 36
Kids’ Gran Canaria ......................... 38 small print & Index 187
Lesbian and gay Gran Canaria ....... 40
Views ............................................ 42
Beaches ........................................ 44
Watersports .................................... 46 Colour maps
Chapter Locator Map
Gran Canaria
Places 49 Las Palmas North & Las Palmas South
Las Palmas: Vegueta and Triana …..51 Useful Bus Routes on Gran Canaria
4
Introduction to
Gran Canaria
INT R ODU C T ION
Basking in gentle subtropical temperatures and year-

round sunshine, Gran Canaria might have been cus-
tom-designed as a holiday paradise. One of the larg-
est of the Canary Islands and a territory of Spain, the
island lies just 210km from the coast of West Africa
but 1250km southwest of Cádiz, the nearest point on
the European mainland. It’s far enough south to have
almost guaranteed good weather making it a hugely
popular winter destination for northern Europeans.
Most come to enjoy
the busy beaches and
nightlife, but beyond
the resorts there are
plenty of secluded
coves, colonial towns,
volcanic landscapes
and beautiful forests
to provide an antidote
to the urban hedon-
ism.
왖 Playa de Meloneras
When to visit
Weatherwise there’s no bad time to visit Gran Canaria. Winter is the
mainstay of the island’s tourist industry, when daytime temperatures peak
in the low 20˚s Celsius, making sunbathing perfectly viable, though swim-
ming pools are sometimes unheated and subsequently chilly. Christmas
and New Year are the peak season, and prices soar accordingly. Las Pal-
mas claims to have the best climate in the world, though sunshine records
and peak temperatures are higher in the drier south, while the high hills of
the north can be enveloped in cloud at any time of year and snow, though
rare, is not unknown. Carnival and Easter are popular times to visit the
island, while after April the summer season starts, with prices rather lower
than the winter peak, though in August the island can still be very busy.
The hottest temperatures are experienced in the late summer and early
autumn, when much of the south of the island can appear dry and barren.
In contrast, January and February, when the almond trees bloom and the
hillsides are green, sees Gran Canaria at its most beautiful.
Contents Introduction
5
INT RODU C T IO N
왖 Temisas
Gran Canaria was first settled around 500 BC by peoples from North
Africa who called the island Tamaran. Their culture was largely
obliterated by the Spanish conquest in the late fifteenth century,
an invasion that they fiercely resisted, but they left behind a rich
archeological legacy that’s worth exploring. Today’s islanders are the
descendants of the original Canarios and of the settlers from Spain
and other European countries who arrived post-conquest. Fascinat-
ing traces remain of this colonial era too, when Las Palmas was a
way station on the route to the Americas and the seat of the Canary
Islands’ bishopric, the royal court
and the Inquisition. The island
experienced successive agricul-
tural booms based on wine, sugar,
cochineal, bananas and tomatoes,
but economic downturns caused
many Canary Islanders to emi-
grate to South America and the
Hispanic Caribbean. In the nine-
teenth century the importance
of the island as a refuelling port
for steamship traffic brought sig-
nificant investment from British
and other foreign merchants.
Lasting prosperity arrived with
the tourist boom of the mid-
twentieth century, and the island
is now stuck with a package tour
image. However, while it’s true
that resorts strongly associated 왖 Puerto Rico
6
왔 Banana plantations, Arucas

INT R ODU C T ION
with mass tourism, such as Maspalomas and Playa del Inglés, do have
their ugly hotels, cheap beer and all-you-can-eat breakfasts, they also
have attractive bungalow complexes set in luxuriant gardens, excel-
lent restaurants and vibrant nightlife.
Away from the resorts, Gran Canaria packs incredible diversity
into its 1560 square kilometres, from the cosmopolitan buzz of the
capital, Las Palmas, to the sleepy colonial towns of the north and
the ruggedly beautiful mountains of the interior. Rural tourism in
characterful hotels and self-catering cottages increasingly offers an
alternative to the tried-and-tested sun and sand formula, as do the
burgeoning golf tourism trade and the island’s international reputa-
tion for windsurfing. As if all this were not enough, there’s a busy
schedule of cultural events and fiestas, from opera, Carnival and
world music to saints’ days and festivals based on the rituals of the
original Canarios. No wonder Gran Canaria is often called a conti-
nent in miniature.
왔
Playa de las Canteras, Las Palmas
7
Gran Canaria
AT A GLANCE
INT RODU C T IO N
Las Palmas
왔
Barranco de Guayadeque, Telde
Gran Canaria’s exhilarating capital
is a tale of two cities: a stately and
cultured colonial one with excel-
lent museums and many historic
monuments, and a vibrant, cosmo-
politan port and resort with one of
the world’s great urban beaches.
왖 Las Palmas The Cumbre

A World Biosphere Reserve and an
Telde and the east coast open-air lesson in vulcanology, the
Cave dwellings and rugged scen- island’s mountainous interior is a
ery make the beautiful Barranco paradise for walkers and cyclists,
de Guayadeque a must in the east and can also be explored by car or
of the island, while the windsurf- jeep. Roque Nublo is the symbol
ing at Pozo Izquierdo is superb of the mountains, and from 1949m
and the quiet colonial sections of Pozo de las Nieves you can watch
Telde, Ingenio and Aguïmes are the sun sink into a sea of clouds.
well worth exploring.
왔 The Cumbre
INT R ODU C T ION 8
Playa de Aldea, west coast

왖
The Costa Canaria
From San Agustín to Meloneras
a vast and efficient tourist indus-
try has colonized the former
tomato fields of the island’s sunny
south, but at the heart of it all the
golden dunes of Maspalomas offer
Santa Maria de Guía, the north

escape, solitude and great natural
beauty.
왖
made beaches and the highest

sunshine rates on the island. Fur-
ther west, the landscape is lonely
and spectacular, culminating in the
unforgettable Andén Verde coastal
The Costa Canaria
drive.
The north
From the cool green hillsides
above Vega de San Mateo and
왔
Valleseco to the luxuriant banana

plantations of the coast, the
The southwest and west island’s north is lush and agri-
The coast west of Meloneras is culturally productive, dotted with
rocky and rugged, but the resorts unspoilt colonial towns and home
of Puerto Rico, Puerto de Mogán to much of the island’s wine
and Patalavaca have golden man- industry.
Ideas
Contents Ideas
10
The big six Gran Canaria has
amazing diversity
as a holiday
destination, as its
most significant
sights prove.
They encompass
everything from
the beauty
of the dunes
at Maspalomas and
the biodiversity of the
island’s interior to the
archeological significance
of the Barranco de
Guayadeque and the
exquisite architecture of
Vegueta, Las Palmas’ The Dunes of Maspalomas
A mini Sahara at the southern tip of the
colonial quarter. For a
island and a haven of peace amid the noise
truly memorable travel and bustle of the resorts.
experience, the scenic P.116 The Costa Canaria
thrills of the spectacular

Andén Verde drive on the
west coast are equalled
only by the infectious
hedonism of Carnival.
The Cumbre
Just a short distance from the resorts,
Gran Canaria’s pristine centre is a World
Biosphere Reserve with dramatic volcanic
scenery.
P.97 The Cumbre
Contents Ideas
11
Carnival
Dance away the blues
at Gran Canaria’s big-
gest winter party and
make sure you stick
around for the Burial of
the Sardine.
P.70 Las
Palmas: Ciudad
Jardín to La Isleta
The Andén Verde

Nearly 30 kilometres of light, sea, scenery
and vertigo, the spectacular Andén Verde
drive is the highlight of any round-the-island
trip.
P.147 The west coast and the
Andén Verde
The Barranco de
Guayadeque
Cave dwellings and the traces of the pre-
Hispanic Canarios make this narrow canyon
the most memorable valley on the island.
P.89 The east coast
Vegueta
The most complete colonial city on the
island, Las Palmas’ old quarter is stately,
historic and – after dark – vibrant.
P.51 Las Palmas: Vegueta and
Triana
Contents Ideas
12
Six essential Gran Canaria experiences Sunny weather and
sandy beaches are
the main reason
most people come
to Gran Canaria,
but if you take
time out from the
beach to discover
the island’s other
pleasures you’ll
be rewarded
with a range of
Discover the island’s
experiences from unspoilt mountainous
the freshest sea interior
Trek through pine forests, conquer volcanic
fish you’ll ever taste peaks or just picnic in the beautiful sur-
to the mysterious roundings.
P.97 The Cumbre
relics of the pre-
Hispanic past, and Explore colonial towns
from the island’s Take a trip back to the island’s colonial
heyday with a stroll through Aguïmes, Santa
incredibly varied Maria de Guía or Teror.
coastline and P.156 & P.161 The north &
P.90 The east coast
rugged, unspoilt
mountainous
interior to its pretty
colonial towns.
Contents Ideas
13
Visit a Canario
site
Clamber over the hillsides at
Cuatro Puertas or Fortaleza
Ansite for a glimpse into the
drama and mystery of the pre-
Hispanic past.
P.84 Telde and around
& P.97 & P.102 The
Cumbre
Circumnavigate
the island
See the incredible scenic
diversity of this almost-circular
island with a drive around
the dramatic and beautiful
coastline.
P.145 The Andén
Verde
Eat fresh fish

You’ll never eat fresher fish
than at a Canarian fish res-
taurant, often right on the
coast with the boats lying only
metres away. There are many
places you can sample fish, but
perhaps the most memorable is
Puerto de las Nieves.
P.151 The west coast
and the Andén Verde
Tan on a
southern beach
Blue skies, balmy tempera-
tures, soft sand and nothing
to do but relax – what are
you waiting for?
P.115 The Costa
Canaria & P.136
The southwest coast
Contents Ideas
14
Gran Canaria after dark Gran Canaria’s
nightlife cranks
into action long
after sunset. In
Las Palmas, the
choice is between
the vibrant but
sometimes seedy
north of the city or
the trendy scene
in Vegueta and
Triana. In Playa del
Inglés, the glitziest
bars and clubs
have international
connections
and a cool vibe,
while elsewhere
in the resorts
scores of tourist bars Drag cabaret in Playa del
cater to specifically Inglés or Puerto Rico
Show tunes, sequins and outrageously funny
German, British, Irish or innuendo Canarian style.
Scandinavian customers. P.129 The Costa Canaria &
P.143 The southwest coast
Drag cabarets deliver
resolutely British, end-of-
the-pier entertainment,
while the island’s casinos
offer a plush setting in
which to place your bets.
Pacha, Playa del Inglés

Get into the latin spirit of salsa in the stylish
surroundings of this upmarket terraza.
P.128 The Costa Canaria
Contents Ideas
15
Calle La Pelota, Vegueta,

Las Palmas
From café bars to cool DJ lounges, this Casino Gran Canaria, San
street near the cathedral is the hottest area Agustín
in Las Palmas after dark. Dress to impress and try your luck with the
P.64 Las Palmas: Vegueta and cards or at the roulette wheel.
Triana P.115 The Costa Canaria
Salsa in Las Palmas Chinawhite, Playa del

Get the latin spirit with a trip to one of the
Inglés
capital’s buzzing Cuban clubs. With great music, beautiful people and a
cool vibe this place proves there’s more to
P.79 Las Palmas: Ciudad Jardín
the south’s nightlife than just cheap beer.
to La Isleta
Contents Ideas
16
Souvenir shopping Stick to the more
reputable stores
and you’ll find a
good selection
of fashion and
sports- or
beachwear across
Gran Canaria. For
souvenirs, check
out the high quality
crafts from Fedac,
Pottery from La Atalaya
the Museum of Take home a piece of traditional Canarian
Rocks at Ingenio pottery from this artisan pottery up in the
hills.
or the pottery P.164 The north
at La Atalaya.
Alternatively,
indulge yourself
in the luxury stores of
Triana or in El Corte Inglés’
amazing food hall, where
you’re sure to pick up
a gourmet treat to take
home. In the south, Faro
2 remains the nicest of the
shopping centres despite
newer competition.
Handicrafts at the Fedac

store, Playa del Inglés
The quality is assured and the selection wide
at this Government-backed crafts store.
Contents Ideas
17
Faro II,
Maspalomas
The most distinctive shopping
complex in the south, selling
stylish sportswear and designer
fashions.
P.124 Costa Canaria
Lace at the
Museum of
Rocks, Ingenio
Ignore the machine-made
tablecloths and go for the
real thing: expensive, but
beautiful.
P.88 The east
coast
The food hall at

El Corte Inglés, Las
Palmas
A feast for the eyes and a good
place to find tasty gifts to take
home.
P.73 Las Palmas: Ciu-
dad Jardín to La Isleta
Triana district,
Las Palmas
From local wines to Cuban
cigars or designer jewellery,
Triana is the place if you
prefer your shops small but
select.
P.60 Las Palmas:
Vegueta and Triana
Contents Ideas
18
Cafés and bars Gran Canaria
has a lively bar
and café culture
similar to that of
mainland Spain,
with everything
from chocolaterías
dishing up the
traditional breakfast
of hot chocolate
with churros to
outdoor terrazas
that stay busy
from morning until late at
night, serving up hot and
cold drinks, tapas and
light meals. The boundary
between bar and café is Café Wien, Playa del
Inglés
somewhat blurred, so that Have a delicious slice of Mitteleuropa at
even the most basic bar this terrific konditorei – and don’t forget the
whipped cream.
may have at least a few P.125 The Costa Canaria
tapas to nibble with your
drink. More cosmopolitan
touches include the
imported tradition of coffee
and cakes, observed in
the German-influenced
southern resorts.
Bar of the Hotel Madrid,

Las Palmas
Have a drink in this historic gin joint and
you’ll feel like an extra from a Bogart movie.
Triana
Contents Ideas
19
La Parada, Puerto Rico Terrazas of the Parque

Right by the taxi stand this simple stand-up Santa Catalina, Las Palmas
bar and café is open for business any time Play chess, eat a bocadillo or just watch the
of the day or night. world go by in Las Palmas’ favourite square.
P.141 The southwest coast P.78 Las Palmas: Ciudad Jardín
to La Isleta
The café in the Parque

San Telmo, Las Palmas
Beautiful modernismo architecture and
tables under the trees make this a perfect
spot for doing nothing.
Triana
El Viento, Pozo Izquierdo

Top spot for windsurfing fans, even the toi-
lets here have sea views.
P.95 The east coast
Contents Ideas
20
Romantic Gran Canaria Forget the raucous
package tour
image: there are
plenty of peaceful,
beautiful places
for a romantic
break. Small, often
highly characterful
casas rurales in
the mountains and
villages offer ideal
accommodation for
couples wanting
to get away from
it all, and there are
stunning sunsets
over the mountains
and ocean to enjoy
together. Even
in the busiest places, a
barefoot walk along the
shoreline or a meal or
concert at the ocean’s
edge is all that it takes to
set the scene.
Casas rurales
Rent a blissful hideaway deep in the Gran
Canarian countryside.
P.172 Essentials
Contents Ideas
21
Lunch at La
Marinera
Bag a window seat at
this restaurant on Playa
de las Canteras beach
and enjoy the ocean
views while you eat.
P.77 Las
Palmas: Ciudad
A concert at
the Auditorio
Alfredo Kraus
Top-notch classical
talent and the stun-
ning seafront setting
make for a glamorous
night out.
P.79 Las
Palmas: Ciudad
Sunset at the Montaña de A walk along the shore to

Arucas the Faro de Maspalomas
Watch the sun sink slowly behind Tenerife After a long day at the beach, dip your toes
from this mountaintop lovers’ retreat. in the water once more and walk hand in
hand to the lighthouse.
P.159 The north
Contents Ideas
22
Hotels There’s no
shortage of
accommodation
options on
the island for
those who prize
character and are
looking for something a
little more distinctive than
the efficient but soulless
concrete blocks. With
everything from peaceful
rural haciendas to grand
old palace hotels and Hotel Santa Catalina, Las
the developers’ latest Palmas
A real grand hotel and still the choice for
extravagant fantasy
many VIPs. If you can’t afford a suite, take
worlds, there’s no need tea on the terrace at least.
to settle for anything
to La Isleta
humdrum.
Gran Hotel Costa
Meloneras, Maspalomas
A touch of Florida comes to Gran Canaria at
this big, stylish resort hotel.
Contents Ideas
23
La Hacienda del Buen
Suceso, Arucas
The perfect holiday hideaway, tucked down
a bougainvillea-lined lane and surrounded by
luxuriant banana plantations.
P.165 The north
Gloria Palace, Amadores

Pamper yourself with the thalassotherapy
treatments and admire the stunning views at
this dramatically sited clifftop spa hotel.
Hotel Rural Las Calas,

Vega de San Mateo
Luxuriant gardens, spacious rooms and deli-
cious farmhouse breakfasts make this a real
rustic charmer.
P.165 The north
Las Tirajanas,
San Bartolomé
de Tirajana
The views are breathtak-
ing at this comfortable
modern hotel up in the
mountains.
P.110 The
Cumbre
Contents Ideas
24
Restaurants Good eating and
drinking in Gran
Canaria begins with
the local cuisine,
strongly influenced
by Spanish
cooking but with
its own traditions
too, based on
local produce,
fresh fish and the
use of aromatic mojo
sauces. Some of the most
memorable meals can also
be the simplest, in some
fishermen’s co-operative
with the boats pulled up
on the beach in front of Tagoror, Barranco de
Guayadeque
you. International cooking Canarian cuisine in a classic Gran Canarian
on the island often means setting – a cave at the top of the Barranco
de Guayadeque.
the ubiquitous steakhouse, P.96 The east coast
but highly sophisticated
fusion cooking in hip,
modern surroundings is
also on offer.
Casa Montesdeoca, Las

Palmas
The romantic setting on the patio of a his-
toric house in Vegueta is memorable, and so
is the ice cream with gofio and bienmesabe.
Triana
Contents Ideas
25
La Cava
Triana, Las
Palmas
The robust flavours of
the tapas are perfect
accompaniments
to the riojas at this
casually elegant Triana
wine bar.
P.62 Las
Palmas: Vegueta
and Triana
El Puertillo,
Arucas
Excellent fish and a view
of the boats that caught it
make El Puertillo a good
choice for any fresh fish
lover.
P.166 The north
Mundo, Playa
del Inglés
Metropolitan sophistica-
tion in both the food
and the decor make this
inventive restaurant a hit
with visitors and stylish
locals alike.
P.127 The Costa
Canaria
Casa
Enrique, Mogán
Take your phrase-
book to decipher the
blackboard specials at
this wonderful Canar-
ian restaurant in rural
Mogán.
P.142 The
southwest coast
Contents Ideas
26
Food and drink Salty little wrinkled
potatoes – papas
arrugadas – served
with spicy red mojo
sauce are the one
Canarian speciality
almost all visitors
sample at some
stage. The island’s
staple is gofio, a
toasted cereal flour
used in all kinds
of ways, most
enjoyably in the thick, Canarian wine
Famous in Shakespeare’s day, Canarian wine
fishy gofio escaldado
is making a comeback and Gran Canaria has
soup and in ice cream, two denominaciones de origen, Gran Canaria
and Monte Lentiscal.
or with bienmesabe, a
P.164 The north
delicious mixture of honey
and almonds. Farmhouse Arehucas rum
cheeses, local wines or Visit the distillery and be sure to try the
product – delicious golden Arehucas rum is
a bottle of the excellent a reminder that Gran Canaria was once a
major sugar producer.
Arehucas rum all make
P.160 The north
splendid and inexpensive
souvenirs, too.
Contents Ideas
27
Fresh fish
The ocean around
Gran Canaria teems
with tuna, marlin and
swordfish – but don’t
ignore the less familiar
local varieties such as
cherne, vieja or mero.
P.149 The west
coast and the
Andén Verde
Queso de Flor
The queen of Gran Canaria’s
cheeses hails from Santa
Maria de Guía in the north
P.157 The north
Gofio
escaldado
This hearty fish-
based soup is
served with red
onions, mint and a
dash of green mojo
sauce.
P.185
Language
Mojo
Whether it’s spicy red mojo
picón with papas arrugadas,
green mojo verde with fish
or the less common garlicky
white sauce, you’ll be sure
to want to take a bottle
home.
P.185 Language
Contents Ideas
28
Folklore and festivals Beneath the
veneer of modern
international tourism
many of the island’s
traditions continue
unchanged
– some celebrating
saints’ days and
others marking
more mysterious,
pre-Hispanic
traditions. Carnival
is celebrated in
style throughout the
island, but above
all in Las Palmas,
where for a few
weeks each year
the capital goes carnaval-
crazy.
Carnival
Mad costumes, elaborate stage sets and
sheer enthusiasm make Carnival a memora-
ble experience, from Las Palmas to Maspalo-
mas – but stick around for the Burial of the
Sardine.
to La Isleta
Contents Ideas
29
Fiesta of the Virgen del
Pino, Teror
The island’s largest religious festival cel-
ebrates the saint’s day of the Virgin of the
Pine in early September.
P.178 The north
Folk dancing at the Pueblo Fiestas del Carmen

Canario The fishermen of the island celebrate their
Every Sunday morning in the Pueblo Canario saint’s day in July, when the fishing fleet
in Las Palmas, you can witness the tradi- from Arguineguín sails to Puerto de Mogán,
tional folk dances of the island. whose fishermen sail to Arguineguín the fol-
lowing week.
to La Isleta P.133 The southwest coast
Contents Ideas
30
Museums For an insight into
the island’s history
and culture a trip
to one of its many
museums is highly
recommended.
Or if you’re more
interested in the
visual arts, there
are a couple of clean,
modern exhibition spaces
worth dragging yourself
away from the beach for,
which display changing
exhibitions of the latest
works from Europe, Africa
and the Americas. Mundo Aborigen
The lost world of the pre-Hispanic Canarios
is brought to life at this open-air folk muse-
um on a stunning hilltop site.
Centro de Interpretación,
Barranco de Guayadeque
This impressive museum, housed in a cave,
explains the unique natural and cultural his-
tory of the island.
P.90 The east coast
Contents Ideas
31
Casa de Colón
Learn about Columbus’
voyages of exploration and
the Canarian connection to
the New World.
P.53 Las Palmas:
Vegueta and Triana
Museo
Canario
Delve into the world of
the original Canarios,
with reconstructions
of their dwellings,
examples of pottery and
a creepy selection of
skulls and mummies.
P.55 Las
Palmas: Vegueta
and Triana
Centro
Atlántico de
Arte Moderno
Expand your cultural
horizons at this cool,
cerebral and always
challenging gallery of
contemporary art.
P.52 Las
Palmas: Vegueta and
Triana
Museo Néstor
The vibrant, sensuous
paintings of Néstor Martín-
Fernández de la Torre are the
focus of this enchanting small
museum.
P.68 Las Palmas:
Ciudad Jardín to La
Isleta
Contents Ideas
32
Nuestra Señora del Pino
Churches Most Canarian
churches are The most important pilgrimage church in the
Canary Islands is stately without and suitably
simple affairs ornate within.
behind dignified P.161 The north
Neoclassical or
neo-Canarian
facades. The
exceptions are
either much
grander, as in the case of
the imposing Catedral de
Santa Ana in Las Palmas,
or more modest, such as
the exquisite Ermita de
las Nieves in the island’s
northwest or the cave
chapels at Guayadeque
and Artenara. Very often,
too, the church serves
Ecumenical church of
as the focus and chief Playa del Inglés
landmark for a quiet and A simple, elegantly modern symbol of spir-
itualism in the south of the island.
beautiful casco historico. P.115 The Costa Canaria
Contents Ideas
33
Ermita de
las Nieves,
Puerto de las
Nieves
A little jewel at the
heart of the island’s
loveliest fishing
village.
P.150 The
west coast and
the Andén Verde
Catedral de Santa Ana, Las

Palmas
A beautiful but austere late Gothic building in
dignified Neoclassical clothing.
Triana
San Juan Bautista, Arucas

Arucas’ exuberant church blends Catalan
flair with piety to impressive effect.
P.159 The north
Cave churches
The cave chapels at Cueva Bermeja in the
Barranco de Guayadeque and at Artenara
exert a unique fascination.
P.80 The east coast
and P.108 The Cumbre
Contents Ideas
34
Landmarks Gran Canaria’s
landmarks are
a mix of the
natural and the
man-made. Its
most memorable
features rise out
of the island’s
dramatic volcanic
landscape: the
basalt sentinels dominating
the island’s centre, for
instance, or the ice cream
colours decorating the
hillsides near Veneguera.
But colour of a man-made
variety turns a built-up
hillside in Las Palmas into
a startling landmark of a
Faro de Maspalomas
different kind, while the This late nineteenth-century lighthouse
lighthouse at Maspalomas predates all the south’s modern tourist
development.
helps sun worshippers P.117 The Costa Canaria
navigate the dunes.
Los Azulejos, Mogán

Ice cream colours splash across the hillsides
in these vibrant, exposed rock strata in the
island’s southwest.
Contents Ideas
35
Roque Nublo
This giant basalt monolith is the symbol of
the island’s ruggedly beautiful heart.
P.104 The Cumbre
Painted hillsides of Las

Torre Woermann, Las Palmas
Palmas A vivid demonstration of the power of paint
The shape of things to come in Las Palmas’ as colour sprawls across the hillside houses
regenerating port district. of a Las Palmas barrio.
P.73 Las Palmas: Ciudad Jardín P.56 Las Palmas: Vegueta and
to La Isleta Triana
Roque Bentayga
Geomorphology, history and spectacular
scenery come together on this dramatic
basalt peak in the heart of the Cumbre.
P.104 The Cumbre
Contents Ideas
36
Outdoor activities Year-round good
weather make the
lure of the outdoors
irresistible, and not
just for sunbathing.
Walking, climbing
and jeep or camel
rides offer a
wonderful excuse
to get out and
discover the
unspoilt parts of
the island, while
golf – already a
major draw in Gran
Canaria – is becoming
ever more important as
the island slowly takes its
image up-market.
Golf
Tee off on Gran Canaria’s superb selection of
courses both ancient and modern.
P.175 Essentials
Contents Ideas
37
Hiking in the Pinar de
Tamadaba
The peak of perfection for keen hikers in
Gran Canaria’s most outstanding pine forest.
P.108 The Cumbre
Explore the Jardín Canario

An entire island in one valley, from laurasilva
and pine forest to dragon trees, coastal
scrub and luxuriant non-native plants.
P.164 The north
A jeep safari in the

mountains
Travel to steep and scary places you
wouldn’t dare drive yourself.
P.174 Essentials
Camel rides
A bumpy reminder of the closeness of Africa,
and of the island’s past when camels were
used as pack animals.
Contents Ideas
38
Kids’ Gran Canaria Gran Canaria’s
big resorts have
evolved on child-
friendly lines, with
many hotels having
special children’s
entertainment or
play facilities and
with lots of parks
and attractions
guaranteed to
keep kids of all
ages amused. Las
Palmas’ Museo
Elder is hi-tech,
highly interactive
and aimed specifically
at children, while away
from the coast, some of
the more dramatic pre-
Sioux City
Hispanic sites are sure
Rootin’, tootin’ cowboys, evil bandits and
to spark the young ones’ dancing saloon girls – but for many the stunt
riders are the highlight.
imaginations.
Holiday World funfair

A good old-fashioned funfair with a big
wheel and all the trimmings.
Contents Ideas
39
Water
parks
Slides, spirals and
pools mean there’s
plenty of fun to
be had splashing
and cooling off in
the sun.
P.117, 118
The Costa
Canaria
Gran Karting
Club
With a separate track for
12–16 year olds and a
miniature track for the
tots, the island’s go-kart-
ing circuit offers thrills
without spills for all ages.
P.111 The Costa
Canaria
Palmitos Park
Performing parrots, flamingos, crocodiles
and butterflies are among the attractions at
this zoo and botanical garden.
Museo Elder, Las Palmas

Hands-on, engrossing and educational
museum, with loads of interactive exhibits
for kids to try out.
to La Isleta
Contents Ideas
40
Lesbian and gay Gran Canaria For years Gran
Canaria has been
Europe’s beach
resort of choice
for lesbians and
gay men. With its
vast infrastructure
of bars, clubs, and
apartments plus
a splendid gay
section of beach
and dunes and the
annual Gay Pride
celebrations, it’s
no wonder many
visitors never leave The beach and dunes of
Maspalomas
Playa del Inglés Legendary throughout Europe for its cruis-
and Maspalomas, ing and nude sunbathing. Just head for the
beachfront snack bar number 7 where the
but Las Palmas gay crowds gather.
in the north also P.116 The Costa Canaria
has its scene

– particularly
exuberant at
carnival time.
The Yumbo Centre

The concrete shopping centre that’s home
to Europe’s largest single concentration of
gay bars.
Contents Ideas
41
Gay Pride,
Maspalomas
Floats, fun and grown
men dressed as
leopardskin handbags
make for a very gay
May.
P.125 The Costa
Canaria
Strand Apotheke,
the Oasis,
Maspalomas
Great beer and company and
a superb view of the surfers
on Maspalomas beach. Just
watch out for the German
schlager tunes.
P.130 The Costa
Canaria
Heaven,
Playa del
Inglés
An injection of Lon-
don sophistication
into the island’s gay
club scene.
P.130 The
Costa Canaria
Miau, Las
Palmas
Go native for a real
dose of latin spirit in
the island’s vibrant
capital.
P.79 Las
Palmas: Ciudad
Jardín to La
Isleta
Contents Ideas
42
Views Gran Canaria’s
dramatic basalt
peaks, its deep
barrancos and
volcanic craters,
wild and rugged
coast and
spectacular beaches
provide plenty of
scenic thrills and photo
opportunities.
The Barranco de Moya

This green gorge is a spectacular surprise
behind the town’s modern church.
P.158 The north
Caldera de Bandama
Vertigo-inducing views into a volcanic crater
amid the vineyards and posh suburbia of
Santa Brigida.
P.163 The north
Contents Ideas
43
Las
Canteras
Beach
One of Europe’s
best city beaches,
right in the centre
of Las Palmas.
P.71 Las
Palmas:
Ciudad Jardín
to Las Isleta
Dedo de Dios,
Puerto de las
Nieves
The “finger of god” was
shorn of its topmost pin-
nacle by a tropical storm
in 2005, but it’s still the
symbol of this fishing
port.
P.149 The west
coast and the Andén
Verde
Sunset over the

dunes of
Maspalomas from
the Riu Palace
hotel
Watching the sun setting over
this mini-Sahara is the perfect
end to a day at the beach.
P.116 The Costa
Canaria
The west
coast from the
Mirador del
Balcón
The panoramas of
the west coast from
this lookout are truly
breathtaking.
P.147 The west
coast and the
Andén Verde
Contents Ideas
44
Beaches The golden dunes
of Maspalomas
and the elegant
sandy curve
of Playa de las
Canteras are two
of the great natural
wonders of Gran
Canaria – the former a
mini-Sahara of shifting
sands, the latter a superb
city beach, animated
from morning until night.
The sunny resorts of the
southwest have well-
maintained, safe, artificial
beaches, while elsewhere
in the island the locals Amadores
descend to the coast to Beautiful, man-made Amadores is the broad-
est sweep of sand in Puerto Rico.
enjoy the small sandy
coves and their lively
restaurants. Montaña Arena
Proof that there are still secluded beaches
even in the south, this quiet nudist beach is
worth seeking out.
Contents Ideas
45
Sardina
del Norte
This sheltered
sandy cove is the
locals’ choice for
sun, sand and
seafood in the
island’s north-
west.
P.152 The
north
Melenara,
Telde
Great for people watch-
ing and for leisurely
lunches by the sea,
Telde’s best beach is
a clean sweep of dark
sand.
P.83 Telde and
around
Playa de las
Canteras, Las
Palmas
This superb city beach
and its calm, sheltered
waters are perfect for sun,
swimming and people
watching.
P.71
Las Palmas: Ciudad
Maspalomas
The endless golden
sands of Maspalomas
are the most amazing
landscape feature in
the south of the island.
P.118 The
Costa Canaria
Contents Ideas
46
Watersports Gran Canaria’s
breezy position
creates excellent
conditions for
all kinds of
watersports, and
for windsurfing it’s
among the world’s
best destinations.
Surfers can ride
the Atlantic rollers,
particularly in the north,
while yachtsmen and
women can follow in
Columbus’ wake. Scuba
divers have pristine waters
and sunken ships to Windsurfing
Some of the best conditions for the sport in
explore, while for keen
the world make Gran Canaria’s east coast a
anglers the seas around major attraction for serious windsurfers and
a popular place to learn the sport.
the island teem with game
P.176 The east coast
fish.
Canarian lateen sailing

Catch sight of the Canary Islands’ tricky,
indigenous form of sailing in the seas off Las
Palmas, with regular regattas at weekends
from April to October.
P.176 Essentials
Contents Ideas
47
Scuba diving
Take a trip underwater to discover the hid-
den beauty of the seabed around the island.
P.175 Essentials
Surfing and bodyboarding Sailing

There are dozens of spots to catch a wave, With fine weather, strong winds and plenty
but the very best are in the north of the of marinas, Gran Canaria’s waters are alive
island. with sails.
P.157 Essentials P.176 Essentials
Contents Ideas
Ideas
Contents Ideas
Places
Contents Places
Contents Places
51
Las Palmas: Vegueta

and Triana
Stately, historic and a joy to explore, Vegueta and Triana
are where Las Palmas began. It was at the mouth of the
Barranco de Guiniguada in what is now Vegueta that on
P L A C ES Las Palmas: Vegueta and Triana

June 24, 1478 captain Juan Rejón set up a bridgehead
for the Spanish conquest of the island. The fledgling
city soon spread across the ravine to form Triana, from
the start a commercial district in contrast to official
and ecclesiastical Vegueta, though the city’s growth
was checked temporarily by a Dutch raid in 1599 that
caused widespread destruction. Today, Vegueta is the
island’s most complete colonial city, dotted with lush,
hidden patios and elaborate wooden balconies. It’s also
a place of government and home to the bulk of Las
Palmas’ cultural and architectural treasures – the cathe-
dral, the Casa de Colón and the CAAM art gallery – as
well as to many of its best bars. Triana has several fine
examples of Modernismo architecture and is a major
shopping district too, with small, often very chic bou-
tiques. Like Vegueta it buzzes in the evening, especially
around the Centro Comercial Monopol.
Avenida Marítima and Playa the harbour. At its southern end

de la Laja is Las Palmas’ quietest major
From Vegueta, the Avenida city beach, the Playa de la Laja,
Marítima follows the coast south a fine sandy affair stretching
to the city’s southern limits. for 1.2km. Almost unknown to
Popular with joggers, it’s dotted tourists, it attracts locals including
with public art and offers great fishermen who pull their boats
views of ships queueing to enter up onto the sand, and surfers
Visiting Vegueta and Triana

Secure parking is available at the underground car park at Parque San Telmo
opposite the city’s main bus station (estación de guaguas). Vegueta and Triana
are highly walkable but the yellow guaguas municipales – city buses are useful
if you’re visiting the Ciudad Jardín or continuing north to the port or beaches;
#1 links Triana with the Ciudad Jardín and the port; #12 & 13 link Vegueta and
Triana with the districts to the north, and #17 departs the Teatro Pérez Galdós
northwards to Mesa y López and the Auditorio Alfredo Kraus. Tourist information
is dispensed from distinctive kiosks at Parque San Telmo (Mon–Fri 10am–7.30pm,
Sat 10am–3pm; w www.promocionlaspalmas.com) and at Plaza Hurtado Mendoza
close to the CC Monopol (same hours).
Contents Places
52
Las Canteras & La Isleta
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CANARI
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VEGUETA & TRIANA PL. NUESTRA

SEÑORA DE
LOS REYES
Playa de la Luja & Airport
and bodyboarders who come CAAM (Centro Atlantico de

for the waves. It isn’t particularly Arte Moderno)
suitable for swimming, but a stroll C/Los Balcones 11, Vegueta w www.
here on a fine windy day with caam.net. Tues–Sat 10am–9pm,
the Atlantic rollers pounding Sun 10am–2pm. Free. Hidden
the shore is an antidote to the behind the imposing facade
otherwise hectic pace of the of an eighteenth-century
city. Global bus #55 for Jinamar, mansion in one of Vegueta’s
many of the buses heading to the most elegant streets, the CAAM
southern resorts and city buses is Las Palmas’ major museum
#9, 12, 13 and 60 stop in the of contemporary art. Instead
district of Hoya de la Plata, linked of a permanent collection, the
by footbridge to the beach. museum attracts international
Contents Places
53
touring exhibitions with the credentials and to report that
aim of highlighting the island’s the rudder on one of his ships
African, European and American was broken. Unsurprisingly,
cultural links. The exhibitions the section of the museum that
can be quite challenging, the deals with Columbus is the
white, modernist interior is cool most engrossing: a reconstructed
and inviting and there’s a well- section of one of his ships, La
stocked shop for stylish gifts and Niña, shows how frighteningly
books. An annexe, the Sala San small they were. Upstairs there’s
Antonio Abad (Plaza de San a model of Las Palmas as it

Antonio Abad; same hours, free) was in 1686, when Vegueta
provides a more intimate space and Triana were separated by
for smaller-scale exhibitions of a stream and not, as now, by
modern art, including video a busy road; plus a series of
work. engravings of the Dutch attack
on the city in 1599. The Gothic
Casa de Colón crypt contains exhibitions on
C/Colón 1,
Vegueta w www.
grancanariacultura.
com. Mon–Fri
9am–7pm, Sat &
Sun 9am–3pm. Free.
For a glimpse
of colonial Las
Palmas you should
visit the Casa
de Colón. This
amalgam of three
grand fifteenth-
century houses is
as old as anything
in the city, its
form reflecting
Roman, Moorish
and Andalucian
influences and
representing a
prototype for
the colonial
architecture that
spread from the
Canary Islands
to the Spanish
colonies in the
New World.
Christopher
Columbus stayed
here in 1492
– in what was then
the governor’s
house – in order
to present his CASA DE COLÓN
Contents Places
54
pre-Colombian South American Jesuits bound for Brazil who
civilizations and there’s a map were killed by French corsairs
of the Americas showing the off La Palma in 1570 – and a
settlements founded by Canary 1909 work by Néstor Martín-
islanders. Close by, the tiny Fernández de la Torre, Jesus entre
seventeenth-century chapel of los doctores de la iglesia, stand out.
San Antonio Abad stands on
the spot where Juan Rejón set Plaza de Santa Ana
up his camp in 1478. Laid out at the beginning of the
sixteenth century, Plaza Santa
Catedral de Santa Ana Ana is a handsome square and

C/Obispo Codina 13, Vegueta. the traditional heart of official
Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 10am–2pm. Las Palmas, a fact reflected in
e3The Catedral de Santa Ana its imposing if slightly austere
is Vegueta’s greatest landmark. architecture. Fringing the
Begun around 1500 in the paved central space are some
Gothic style, its construction of the city’s main architectural
was long and episodic, with monuments: the Casa Regental
various architects and eras (Regent’s House), which dates
leaving their mark on the back to the sixteenth century
structure, so that the Puerto and is one of the few surviving
del Aire (Door of Air) is Renaissance buildings in the
Renaissance and the twin city; the seventeenth-century
pulpits are Baroque. The Palacio Episcopal (Bishop’s
building was finally completed Palace) was rebuilt after the
with a Neoclassical facade Dutch attack with a simple but
in the nineteenth century. harmonious facade; and the
The Catedral is one of the Neoclassical Casas Consistorales
most significant architectural (City Hall), which dates from
monuments in the Canary 1842. All these buildings
Islands, thanks not just to its remain in official use; the Casa
size and antiquity but above Regental houses the Presidency
all to the beautiful late-Gothic of the Canary Islands Supreme
interior, with its three naves Court. Bronze statues of dogs
of equal height. The forest of adorn the square, and there
elegant columns and the looping are benches to sit on and take
vaulting are quite distinctive in the historic surroundings.
and reminiscent of a palm Open-air concerts and events
grove. Entry is via the Museo sometimes take place here too.
Diocesano de Arte Sacro
(C/Espíritu Santo 20; same Mercado de Vegueta
hours and ticket as Catedral), an C/Mendizabal 1, Vegueta. Mon–Thurs
extensive collection of religious 6.30am–2pm, Fri & Sat 6.30am–3pm.
art ranged around the beautiful, The oldest and most beautiful
balconied seventeenth-century market in the city dates from
Patio de los Naranjos, a former 1854, and the wonderful displays
orchard often heady with the of fresh fish, fruit and vegetables
scent of orange blossom. Among are well worth a browse. The
some fine woodcarvings and presence of the market ensures
modernist stations of the cross, that the surrounding streets are
a gory eighteenth-century a hive of activity from early
depiction of the martyrs of morning onwards, in contrast to
Tazacorte – 39 Portuguese the sleepy face much of Vegueta
Contents Places
55

M E R C A D O D E V E G U E TA
presents to the world. In the ritual is demonstrated by the

evenings, C/Mendizabal and C/ mummified corpse of a young
La Pelota are transformed into man from Arguineguín and
the hub of Vegueta’s convivial there are more than a thousand
nightlife scene. skulls. The section on pottery
demonstrates the enduring
Museo Canario influence of Canario styles on
C/Dr Verneau 2, Vegueta w www. post-conquest earthenware.
elmuseocanario.com. Mon–Fri
10am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–2pm. Calle Dr Chil
e3. Founded in 1879, the The narrow stone canyon of
Museo Canario explains the life C/Dr Chil is one Vegueta’s most
and culture of the indigenous interesting streets, containing
inhabitants of the island, the the old Augustinian convent
Canarios – a people of North that is now the High Court,
African Berber origin – from the Baroque church of San
500 BC to the fifteenth-century Francisco de Borja and the
conquest by the Spanish. It’s austere Seminario Conciliar.
an engrossing museum despite The Jesuits established the
its somewhat stuffy and old- Colegio de la Sagrada Familia
fashioned style; most exhibits in a house on this street in
are labelled in Spanish only, 1697 and in 1724 they began
but an English language leaflet to build the church of San
is available at the museum Francisco de Borja, the exterior
entrance. Exhibits include of which is dominated by the
reconstructions of the burial flamboyant barley sugar columns
mound of La Guancha, the flanking the door, while inside
El Pósito granary at Temisas there’s an eighteenth-century
and the famous Cueva Pintada Rococo retable by José de
(painted cave) at Gáldar, plus San Guillermo. The Seminario
scale models of stone round Conciliar next door, established
houses and cave dwellings. in 1777 in the former Jesuit
Artefacts include the Ídolo de Colegio, was the unlikely
Tara, a red fertility sculpture birthplace of the enlightenment
that has become the symbol in Gran Canaria’s intellectual
of Telde; Canario burial life.
Contents Places
56
Plaza del Espíritu Santo and mostly not at all picturesque,
around but the coordinated colour
C/Dr Chil continues west scheme creates a memorable
beyond the Museo Canario to effect, particularly when bright
the enchantingly pretty Plaza sunshine emphasizes the vibrant
del Espíritu Santo, perhaps shades used. On the south side
the loveliest of Vegueta’s plazas, of C/Ramón y Cajal stands
ranged around a tiny garden the Hospital de San Martín,
with a fountain beneath a an imposing structure built to
stone baldachin at its centre. the plans of Colonel Antonio
Triana P L A C ES
The plaza is fringed with Lorenzo de la Rocha in 1775.

stately colonial mansions and
there’s a chapel, the Ermita del Church of Santo Domingo
Espíritu Santo. Continuing a Plaza de Santo Domingo, Vegueta.
Las Palmas: Vegueta and
little way along C/Castillo and Dominating a broad, pleasantly

C/Ramón y Cajal you soon shady square, the whitewashed
reach a break in the buildings Baroque church of Santo
from which you can see the Domingo dates from the
most impressive of Las Palmas’ seventeenth century, when it
painted hillsides, actually was built to replace the original
the houses of the otherwise destroyed in the Dutch raid
uninteresting Barrio San Nicolas of 1599. Inside are some fine
which overlook the Barranco altarpieces and sculptures by the
de Guiniguada from the north. Canarian master Luján Pérez,
Individually the houses are though like many churches in
Las Palmas it’s usually locked
PLAZA DEL ESPIRITU SANTO
except during mass. The stone
fountain in the plaza outside
also dates from the seventeenth
century.
Teatro Pérez Galdós

Plaza de Stagno 1, Triana t 928 361
509. Closed for modernization. This
imposing theatre is named
after the greatest Canarian
writer, Benito Pérez Galdós,
the “Spanish Dickens”, who
was born in Triana in 1843 (see
p.58). The building is the work
of Canarian architect Miguel
Martín-Fernández de la Torre,
who rebuilt it in 1918 after fire
ravaged the original theatre
dating from 1852. The interior
includes frescoes by his brother,
the symbolist painter Néstor
Martín-Fernández de la Torre.
Alameda de Colón and the

Plaza Cairasco
The raised, rectangular Alameda
(boulevard) de Colón at the
Contents Places
57
Iniciativas Culturales Caja de
Canarias; t 928 368 687), a
multipurpose arts centre that
incorporates a 400-seat theatre,
occupies the nineteenth-century
premises of the former Hotel
Negresco on the opposite side
of the square. The Alameda de
Colón’s northeast corner opens
onto leafy, pedestrianized Plaza

Cairasco, a popular spot for a
drink at one of the pavement
cafés beneath the palm trees.
On the square are two of
Triana’s most historic buildings.
The most prominent of these
is the Gabinete Literario
(t 928 364 658), an ornate
fusion of nineteenth-century
Neoclassicism and flamboyant
Modernismo decoration. Founded
T E AT R O P É R E Z G A L D Ó S F R E S C O as a literary society, its first
president was a member of the
southern entrance to Triana is British community, Roberto
an attractive if busy open space Houghton-Houghton. Today
that serves as a departure point the building is used for a variety
for many of the municipal of events including dances;
bus services. Watching over it’s usually possible to get in
the comings and goings is the to see the lofty entrance hall
church of San Francisco de or to attend an event. To the
Asis, rebuilt in Baroque style right of the Gabinete Literario
in the seventeenth century is the Hotel Madrid, with
after the 1518 original was a dark, atmospheric and old-
destroyed in the Dutch raid fashioned interior and a wide
of 1599. CICCA (Centro de outdoor terrace that’s good for
Franco in Gran Canaria

Francisco Franco Bahamonde was appointed military commandant of the Canary
Islands by the Republican government early in 1936. Already known for his Right-
wing sympathies, he wasn’t trusted and it was felt wise to keep him far from
Madrid, but the remoteness of Franco’s posting did nothing to stop his plotting.
On July 16, 1936 the military commander of Gran Canaria, Amado Balmes, was
shot dead in mysterious circumstances whilst visiting a shooting range. His death
gave Franco the pretext to travel overnight from his headquarters on Tenerife to
Gran Canaria, where a chartered British plane was waiting to fly him to Spanish
Morocco where the rebellion would begin. The Moroccan garrisons rose in revolt on
the evening of July 17; Franco spent the night at the Hotel Madrid in Triana. Next
morning he declared martial law, ordering the seizure of the post office, telephone
and telegraph services, radio stations and utilities. The future dictator’s manifesto
was broadcast by a Las Palmas radio station. At 11am he set off for Gando airport
by sea – the villages between the city and airport were controlled by his enemies
– and at 2.15pm on July 18 Franco’s plane took off for Morocco.
Contents Places
58
a civilized drink. It was in this Cano is also distinctly more
hotel in 1936 that Franco spent upmarket, one of a dense
his last night on Gran Canaria network of pleasant little streets
before joining the rebellion that which mix lovely Modernismo
became the Spanish Civil War. architecture with chic shopping
and dining. Famous names in
Calle Mayor de Triana C/Cano itself include Mont
Triana’s long, traffic-free Blanc and Cartier, while at no.
main street is considered a 6 the Casa-Museo Benito
historical monument in its Pérez Galdós (closed for
own right, such is the elegant restoration at the time of

impression created by the stately writing; scheduled to re-open
Neoclassical and beautiful during 2006; t 928 366 976,
Modernismo facades above its w www.casamuseoperezgaldos)
shops. It leads arrow straight is the birthplace and childhood
from the Parque San Telmo in home of the man considered
the north almost as far as the Spain’s greatest writer after
Guiniguada in the south, and Cervantes and often compared
is characterized by small and to Dickens for his liberal views
medium size boutiques, with a and sympathetic portrayal of
sprinkling of bars and cafés that the lower classes. The house
keep the street scene lively well itself is a very evocative slice
into the night. of nineteenth-century Spanish
bourgeois life, and includes
Calle Cano furniture from the family homes
Narrower and more intimate in Madrid and Santander.
than C/Mayor de Triana, C/
Parque San Telmo
Triana’s northern
edge is marked by
the large, palm-
shaded Parque San
Telmo, a place of
arrival and departure
since the days when
the city’s original
harbour was here.
Today it’s the
bus station that is
responsible for the
never-ending parade
of humanity. Solace
comes in the shape
of a wonderfully
inventive children’s
play park, and
there’s a beautiful
Modernismo café
kiosk in the
northwest corner.
The plaza is also
occasionally the
CALLE CANO MODERNISMO venue for book
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59

HOUSES ON CALLE PEROJO
fairs and other special events. for the neo-Canarian style

The oldest monument here is of the Pueblo Canario in the
the low, whitewashed Ermita Ciudad Jardín (see p.68) and the
de San Telmo, which like Teatro Pérez Galdós. Here, the
several of the city’s churches influence of Le Corbusier and
was destroyed during the of the Bauhaus is clear.
Dutch raid of 1599 and rebuilt
in the following century. If Castillo de Mata
it happens to be open, inside Carretera de Mata, between Avda
there’s a lovely Baroque retable. Primero de Mayo and C/Bravo Murillo.
Parque San Telmo is overlooked This early seventeenth-century
on its west side by the stern fortress is a surviving fragment
Neoclassical facade (and armed of the fortifications that once
military guards) of the Gobierno defended the city from pirate
Militar, which dates from 1881. attack. At the start of the
The north side of the plaza is twentieth century it was used as
occupied by the Bauhaus-style a barracks; today it is closed for
Hotel Parque, built in the early renovation, pending future use
1930s and still going; the east is as a cultural centre.
separated from the ocean by the
Avenida Marítima. Barrio de Arenales
C/Bravo Murillo marks the
Cabildo Insular northern limit of Triana, and
C/Bravo Murillo 23, Triana. In stark for the most part the districts
contrast to the official buildings between here and the Ciudad
in Vegueta, the Cabildo Insular Jardín are dull and worth
(Island Council) is a tour-de- skipping. However, a number
force of clean, uncluttered of streets leading north from
interwar European Modernism, C/Bravo Murillo into the barrio
dating from 1932 and one of of Arenales are enlivened by
the most important examples attractive, brightly coloured
of this architectural style nineteenth-century town
in Spain. The architect was houses. Some of the best are to
Miguel Martín-Fernández de be seen on C/Perojo, and there’s
la Torre, perhaps better known a groovy café-bar, El Perojo,
Contents Places
60
Fedac
C/Domingo J. Navarro 7, Triana t 928
369 661, w www.fedac.org. Mon–Fri
9.30am–1.30pm & 4.30–8pm. The
Triana Fedac store is one of two
government-backed outlets in
the island (the other is in the
south) selling traditional and
modern handicrafts of excellent
quality. An annexe, the Sala,
displays a more limited selection

of expensive designer items.
La Casa del Habano

C/Torres 22, Triana t 928 433 496.
Mon–Fri 9.30am–1.30pm & 4.30–
8.30pm, Sat 10am–2pm. This award
winning, atmospheric temple
to tobacco is a cigar-lover’s
dream, with a humidor and a
snug private smoking room.
It only stocks leading Cuban
brands including Cohiba and
EL GABINETE GASTRONÓMICO
Montecristo.
on the corner of C/Murga at

the far end of the street. Two Hotels &
important public buildings,
the Gobierno Civil and the Pensions
Comandancia de Marina, are
on the Plaza de la Feria just to Hotel Madrid
the north of here, where there’s Plaza Cairasco 4, Triana t 928 360
also a rather heroic-looking 664.Dark wood, heavy plaster
monument to Pérez Galdós. ceilings and a glazed internal
Fronting the Avenida Marítima patio add to the atmosphere
behind the Comandancia de of the Hotel Madrid, not the
Marina is an eye-catching most luxurious hotel in the city
fountain, which is illuminated to but certainly the most historic
spectacular effect at night. (Franco stayed in room 3 here
on the eve of the Spanish
Civil War). Rooms at the front
Shops are nicest, spacious and with
balconies and bathrooms, while
El Gabinete Gastronómico those at the back are a little
C/Torres 18, Triana t 928 380 443. gloomy. e30–40.
Mon–Fri 10am–2pm & 4.30–8.30pm,
Sat 10am–2pm. Wonderful Hotel Parque
little wine merchant selling C/Muelle de Las Palmas 2, Triana
Spanish and Canarian wines t 928 368 000, w www.hparque.
including products from the com. This smart, air-conditioned
Bodegas Monje in Tenerife, plus and refurbished three-star hotel
Canarian rums and imported offers high standards of comfort
whiskies and tobacco. and space for the money and
Contents Places
61
the location couldn’t be more mornings it’s the place to enjoy
convenient for exploring the traditional hot chocolate with
island: it’s right on the Parque churros, otherwise it’s a cheap
San Telmo, opposite the place to have a slice of tortilla,
Estacion de Guaguas and with a plate of goat’s cheese or a café
the sights of Vegueta and Triana con leche.
immediately accessible on foot.
The views over the park are El Perojo
lovely; double glazing keeps the Mon–Fri 8.30am–12.30pm &
noise down. e67–79. Mon–Thurs 7.30pm–2am, Fri & Sat

7.30pm–3.30am. Cool, laid-back
Pensión Perojo café-bar just north of Triana
C/Perojo 1, Arenales t 928 371 387. offering tapas and bocadillos
Located in a lovely nineteenth- throughout the morning and
century building, Pensión Perojo from early evening until late.
has seventeen clean, airy rooms It attracts a young and partly
with shared bathrooms. It’s studenty crowd and gets livelier
basic but cheerful; the rooms as the night wears on. There’s
have high ceilings, shutters and also a giant TV screen showing
balconies, but given the central football.
location not far from Parque
San Telmo, you should reckon Pastelería Morales
with some traffic noise. E24 C/Viera y Clavijo 4, Triana t 928
380 782. Daily 9am–9pm. The
most atmospheric of this small
Cafés chain is all brown wood and
genteel refinement and has a
Café & Bar Guiniguada window at the back through
1 Plaza Hurtada Mendoza, Triana t 928 which you can see bakers in
369 758. Mon–Fri 8.30am–midnight, silhouette The exquisite cakes,
Sat 11am–midnight. Strategically miniature bocadillos (filled rolls)
located between Vegueta and and dainty sandwiches make this
Triana and with outdoor tables an excellent breakfast stop. The
facing the fountain and Moorish orange juice is good, too.
style kiosks of the plaza, this
little café serves generous
portions of somewhat
Germanic cakes including
apple strudel and poppy
seed cheesecake, plus snacks
and light meals, all at very
reasonable prices.
Churrería-Chocolatería
Montesol
C/Perojo 3, Arenales. Daily
6.30am–11pm. Most churrerías
are rather grim, functional
places, but not this one
where the ceilings are high,
there’s a long zinc counter
and the atmosphere is
redolent of the 1950s. Early C H O C O L AT E R Í A M O N T E S O L
Contents Places
62
with vinaigrette, pumpkin
Restaurants oil and mustard seeds and sea
bass in cava with tagliatelle for
Casa Montesdeoca e13–18.
C/Montesdeoca 10, Vegueta t 928
333 466. Mon–Sat 12.30–4pm & El Herreño
8pm–midnight. C/Mendizábal 5, Vegueta t 928 331
The delicacies at this well- 154. Daily 9.30–1am. Bustling and
known restaurant include rather old fashioned, this big,
flambéed giant prawns in traditional restaurant with its
champagne, sirloin steak high stone arches and curved

béarnaise and stuffed piquillo bar is a wonderful place to
peppers, but it’s the stunningly enjoy reasonably priced Spanish
beautiful setting in the patio and Canarian specialities in an
garden of a grand old colonial authentic atmosphere. The wine
house that is the key to its list includes many Canary Island
appeal. The ice cream flavoured bottles. If you choose to eat
with gofio and the honey and tapas style, try a media ración of
almond bienmesabe is delicious. the Herreño cheese.
Mains are around e15.
Hipócrates
Cava de Triana C/Colón 4, Vegueta t 928 311 171.
C/Travieso 35, Triana t 928 381 302. Tues–Fri 1.30–4pm & 7–8.30pm.
Mon–Sat 12.30pm–1.30am. This Piquillo peppers and veggie
elegantly casual modern wine couscous enliven the more
bar and restaurant is a superb predictable pasta and quiche-
spot to enjoy Spanish wines based fare at this pretty little
and delicious, simply prepared vegetarian restaurant, located
tapas – around e6 a dish
– or salads. The wine
list is strong on Riojas,
and the food includes
dishes such as lamb with
caramelized onions in
balsamic, meltingly tender
mixed sweet roast peppers
and modish desserts which
make inventive use of local
ingredients such as gofio
and bienmesabe.
Cho Zacarias
C/Audiencia 7, Vegueta t 928
331 374. Tues–Sat 1–5pm &
8.30pm–midnight. Smart and
fashionable restaurant in
a lovely old house in the
heart of Vegueta’s main
tourist zone. It’s no tourist
trap though, with food
geared to sophisticated
palates, including dishes
such as duck ham salad C A VA D E T R I A N A
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63
on a tiny but sunny patio
opposite the Casa de Colón.
There’s also a menú del día
for e9.
Bars
CC Monopol
A former hotel converted

into a shopping centre,
the Centro Comercial
Monopol has evolved into
the hub of Triana’s nightlife.
Until around midnight
the action centres on the
bars on the ground floor
with their outdoor terrazas
– particularly Heineken
(Mon–Thurs noon–1.30am,
Fri & Sat noon–2.30am,
Sun noon–midnight) which
serves tapas as well as draught
and bottled beer, and its TA G O R O R
neighbour Taberna Las Ranas
(Mon–Thurs noon–midnight, Scratch Sports Bar
weekends noon–2.30am). As C/Obispo Codina 4, Vegueta. Mon–Wed
the night progresses, the action 4pm–midnight, Thurs–Sat noon–2am,
moves down the escalator to Sun noon–midnight. Bright, stylish
the centre’s lower level, where bar that wears its sporting
a variety of bars – Treinta y credentials relatively lightly, so
Tantos for a 30 to 40-ish crowd, the big screen might be showing
Stiloko for hip-hop fans, Passion Formula 1 racing or football but
and Sister for disco fans and the soundtrack will likely be a
Babagee and Radio Mz 91.5 for mix of oldies and mainstream
a fashionable crowd – compete house. There’s a 1970s retro feel
for custom and to outdo each to the decor, including plastic
other in decibels till around 4am bucket chairs. Drinks prices are
at weekends. reasonable, and the crowd is
smart and mostly over 25.
Clicquot
C/Mesa de León 3, Vegueta. Fri & Tagoror
Sat 11pm–4.30am. The long, C/Mendizábal 23, Vegueta. Daily
narrow main bar at this packed, 8.30pm–2am. There’s really no
vibrant, latino-pop hangout is gimmick here and the decor is
overlooked by a balcony which limited to a few framed prints
promises some relief from the of old Las Palmas, but Tagoror is
heaving 25–45 crowd; otherwise, regularly crammed to the doors
expect to stand shoulder to with a chatty, diverse, rather
shoulder with good-looking cerebral student and academic
locals gyrating to Enrique crowd. Drinks are reasonably
Iglesias, Ricky Martin and the priced, and it’s highly convivial.
rest. Great fun. They also serve tapas.
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64
There’s plenty of room for
Clubs the young crowd to dance as
well as a more intimate upper
Floridita bar for getting to know each
C/Remedios 10–12, Triana. Mon–Wed other better. Drinks are cheaper
8pm–2.30am, Thurs 8pm–3.30am, Fri before 1.30am.
& Sat till 6am. Not-to-be-missed
conversion of a grand old house
complete with a garden full Live music &
of luxuriant palms out back.
The atmosphere is latin and entertainment

Caribbean, the drinks of choice
mojitos or daiquiris and the Cuasquías
music, at its best, pure salsa. It C/San Pedro 2, Triana t 928 370 046.
attracts a dressed up, mainstream, Tues–Sat 11pm–3am; live music
30- to 40-something crowd generally starts around 12.30am.
who come here to dance. No Triana’s main venue for live
cover, but drinks are expensive. bands is a vast place built
around a glazed courtyard, with
Jellyfish scrubbed stone walls, a couple of
C/La Pelota 16, Vegueta. Mon–Wed pool tables and an atmospheric,
9pm–3.30am, Thurs–Sat 9pm–4.30am. high-ceilinged bar. It ticks over
Very cool DJ bar, spread over during the week but is crowded
several floors, that’s spacious, at weekends, and the music
modern and buzzy, with plenty varies from jazz and singer-
of people dancing on the lower songwriters to rock and funk.
level but getting more lounge-
like and laid-back as you ascend. Teatro Cuyas
The music is mainstream house, C/Viera y Clavijo, Triana t 928
the crowd is 25–45 and the 432 180, w www.teatrocuyas.com.
toilets unisex. Drinks prices are Tucked behind the facade of a
at club levels. former cinema in Triana, the
Teatro Cuyas is currently the
Soul Train city’s leading venue for theatre
C/Mendizábal 37, Vegueta. Thurs–Sat and musicals as well as a venue
11.30pm–4am. This dark, sexy for classical music, ballet and
DJ bar is devoted to black contemporary dance, including
music, majoring in R&B but the annual festivals of zarzuela
encompassing funk and soul. – Spanish operetta – and opera.
Contents Places
65
Las Palmas: Ciudad

Intensely urban and effortlessly cosmopolitan, northern
Las Palmas is a creation of the late nineteenth and twen-
tieth centuries, when the rapid rise of shipping and tour-
P L A C ES Isleta
ism turned the capital of Gran Canaria into the largest city
in the Canary Islands. Sprawling across a low-lying isth-
mus, it’s a fascinating mix of the raucous and the refined:
on its western flank there’s a truly exceptional city beach,
Las Palmas: Ciudad Jardín to La

the Playa de las Canteras, backed by luxury hotels and
an elegant modern concert hall; to the east, the vast arti-
ficial harbour of Puerto de la Luz sees a steady stream
of cruise liners, warships, deep-sea trawlers and cargo
ships of all kinds. The streets in between are lively around
the clock with the action focusing on the Parque Santa
Catalina, home to Las Palmas’ annual Carnival and year-
round nightlife, and the Avenida José Mesa y López, the
city’s principal shopping street. To the north, La Isleta
offers great surfing and excellent views of the city from
its volcanic hills, while to the south the classy residential
Ciudad Jardín (Garden City) has a leafy elegance and a
cultural scene centred on the Pueblo Canario in the sub-
tropical Parque Doramas. PA R Q U E D O R A M A S
Distinguished by its tree-

lined avenues and opulent
late nineteenth-century
villas, the Ciudad Jardín
has long been a well-to-do
neighbourhood, strongly
associated with the city’s
British community, which a
century ago played a major
part in Gran Canaria’s eco-
nomic development – the
district was once known as
the Barrio de los Ingleses.
Parque Doramas and around

Parque Doramas is a compact
but lush public park grouped
around fountains and planted
with native Canary Island
species as well as some of the
Contents Places
66
LAS PALMAS: CIUDAD JARDÍN TO LA ISLETA

ACCOMMODATION
AC Gran Canaria B
Apartamentos Marsin Playa C
Hostal Alcaravaneras G
Hotel Faycán D
Hotel Igramar E
Hotel Reina Isabel A
Hotel Valencia F
Las Palmas: Ciudad Jardín to La Isleta P L A C ES
RESTAURANTS
Anthurium B
Candombe 6
Casa Carmelo 2
La Marinera 3
Los Cedros 11
Hermanos Rogelio 18
Restaurante Roma 1
Rias Bajas 12
CAFÉS
Cafetería Carruso 15
Cañas y Tapas 17
Terraza la Marina A
AT L A N T I C O C E A N
BARS & CLUBS
Café Tequila 7
Camel Bar 16
Dojo 14
Gran Terraza
Lolita Pluma 5
Pacha 10
Ronería Museo
del Ron 8
LIVE MUSIC
El Palacio Latíno 4
LESBIAN & GAY VENUES

Bridge Club Iron 9
Miau 13
S
RA
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SHOPS
N
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El Corte Inglés a S
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Auditorio DE R
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M SE
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Contents Places
67
Playa de Confital
AD
AZGO
TIMAGAN AR RA
BENTAIGA G GUAYED
FARO
OM
PERCHAL
ARTEM
A
MAYOR
PRINCES
TUFIA
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SAUCILLO FONTA TECEN
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OV LA NAVA
FAR
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GORDILL
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PR AS JUAN ARITO
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1
FERRER ROS
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2
SOCA
3 RTE
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MARÍTIM
AVENIDA
LÓPEZ
TENE
P L A C ES Las Palmas: Ciudad Jardín to La Isleta

RIFE
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a
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GRAN
CANA
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ALFREDO L. JONES B C.C. El Muelle

TOMÁS
DR. MIGUEL ROSAS
ALBAREDA
SECRETARIO ARTILES
29 DE ABRIL
GENERAL VIVES
C
LUIS MOROTE Museo Elder CATALINA
4 DE SANTA
MILLER
MUELLE
EDUARDO BENOT
BERNARDO DE LA TORRE
5
SARGENTO LLAGAS Parque
6 RIPOCHE
Santa
TORRES QUEVEDO 7 Catalina
8
MARIANA PINEDA
NICOLÁS ESTEVANEZ NICOLÁS ESTEVANEZ

DOCTOR GRAN BASSAS
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Ciudad Jardín & Parque Doramas Triana, Vegueta & Airport
Contents Places
68
Visiting northern Las Palmas
Las Palmas isn’t a relaxing city for drivers, but secure parking is available (at a price)
at the Hotel Santa Catalina and in the multistorey car parks close to Parque Santa
Catalina, which is also the chief bus terminus for the north of the city. Most of this
part of the city is walkable, but the yellow guaguas municipales are useful if you’re
visiting the Ciudad Jardín or continuing south to Vegueta or Triana. Bus #1 serves the
Ciudad Jardín and Triana; #17 travels along the waterfront as far as the Teatro Pérez
Galdós in Triana; buses #12 and #13 continue beyond Triana to Vegueta and buses #2
and #25 are useful if you’re travelling between the shopping districts of Avda. Mesa
y López and Triana. Tourist information is dispensed from booths on Avda. Mesa
y López, at Parque Santa Catalina and opposite the Hotel Melía Las Palmas on the
Paseo Canteras (Mon–Fri 10am–7.30pm, Parque Santa Catalina and Paseo Canteras
also Sat 10am–3pm; w www.promocionlaspalmas.com).
The municipal bus company also operates a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing bus, the
guagua turística, which departs from Parque Santa Catalina (every 30 minutes;
9.30am–5.45pm); buy your ticket on board.
luxuriant non-native flowering Sundays, traditional folk dances

specimens that flourish here, are performed. There’s a café
including jacaranda and roses. and a shop selling handicrafts.
On the south side of the park The Pueblo’s centrepiece is
stands the Pueblo Canario, the Museo Néstor (Tues–Sat
designed by Miguel Martín- 10am–8pm; Sun & hols
Fernández de la Torre in 1939, 10.30am–2.30pm; e2) opened
a complex of low buildings in in 1956 as a permanent home
neo-Canarian style, grouped for the works of Miguel’s
around a plaza in which, on brother, the painter Néstor
Martín-Fernández de la
Las Canteras & La Isleta Torre, who died in 1938.
0 100 m ACCOMMODATION Néstor’s work was uniquely
Hotel Santa Catalina A Canarian, using strong
N
RESTAURANTS colours and motifs – fruit,
LEÓ
Bodegon del children and tropical birds

N
YC
Pueblo Canario 1
– to summon up his Canary
AST
AV
ILL
Island home from his studio

EN
O
BR
IDA
AS
in Madrid. The collection’s

IL
MA
LEO
PA R
high points are the eight
RÍT
GAG DI GO
OG AL
IM
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INH
O RO H paintings of the Poem of
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A ND
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AL
EJ the Sea, and the unfinished
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T
BEE Poem of the Land, while

E
EMILIO
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LEY
his etchings and drawings
N
A
YC
A
Parque reveal a draughtsman of

Triana & Vegueta
ST
Doramas
IL L
EM
considerable confidence,
O
1
IL
ID
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IO
MA
and his tourist posters of
AN
LE
DE
GEL
Y
PA SEO 1930s Gran Canaria are

D. R
PA S
GUIM
PA S
XIII fascinating. Alongside the

IV E R
NX
JUA
ERA
EO
UA
OD
EJ
O
AD Pueblo Canario stands the

N C
EL T
DE
NID
AVE
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Hotel Santa Catalina,

LO
CH
ORA
IL
O
Gran Canaria’s only example
LOS
LUG
DE
EO
PARQUE DORAMAS PA S of a traditional palace hotel,
which owes its current
Contents Places
69
Alcaravaneras
The barrio of
Alcaravaneras
is home to the
city’s central
market and the
island’s football
stadium, but
despite this it’s
a surprisingly

low-key
MUSEO NÉSTOR
neighbourhood,
its tight grid of
grandiose appearance to quiet residential streets slowly
remodelling work by Miguel losing their remaining early
Martín-Fernández de la Torre. twentieth-century houses as
Financed by the British-owned newer, bigger apartment blocks
Grand Canary Islands Company take their place. The main
and originally opened in 1890, draw is the broad Playa de las
it remains a pleasant place to Alcaravaneras, a 550-metre
take tea. For accommodation strip of pristine gold sand
details see p.75. The hotel wedged between the Muelle
also houses the Casino Las Deportivo and the Real Club
Palmas (C/León y Castillo Náutico de Gran Canaria,
227 t 928 233 908, w www. one of Las Palmas’ three yacht
casinolaspalmas.com; Sun–Thurs clubs. Given its position by
4pm–4am; Fri & Sat 4pm–5am; the port, this isn’t the most
passport or ID required for alluring place for a swim, but
entry). Across the busy Avenida it’s a popular spot for beach
Marítima from the hotel is the sports, including volleyball and
Muelle Deportivo, Las Palmas’ football, and for wet biking
main yacht marina, currently and windsurfing.
being upgraded.
P L AYA D E L A S A L C A R AVA N E R A S
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Las Palmas: Ciudad Jardín to La Isleta P L A C ES 70
PA R Q U E S A N TA C ATA L I N A
Avenida José Mesa y López there’s a pleasant tree-lined

From the Real Club Náutico paseo down the middle, and the
in the east to the Plaza España Plaza España is a popular spot to
in the west, the arrow-straight linger, with many terrazas that
main section of the Avenida stay busy late into the evening.
José Mesa y López is Las
Palmas’ principal shopping street Parque Santa Catalina
and the home to its biggest Parque Santa Catalina is the
stores, including Mango, Zara, social and entertainment
Cortefiel, Marks & Spencer and centre of Las Palmas. The large,
the gargantuan twin buildings of rectagonal open space is more
the El Corte Inglés department plaza than park, its tall palms
store. Though the avenue is overtopped by the AC Hotel,
permanently clogged with traffic its western side lined with
Carnival in Las Palmas

Carnival (carnaval in Spanish) is the most important festival of the year in Las
Palmas. Enthusiastically celebrated with live music and ridiculous costumes for
several weeks in the late winter, there’s something on almost every night and the
morning papers lead on Carnival-related news. Though its origin is in the traditional
Catholic pre-Lent carnival, nowadays the timetable is only loosely related to the
religious calendar and festivities sometimes continue even after the traditional last
day of Ash Wednesday. For the duration of Carnival the Parque Santa Catalina
is taken over by a giant outdoor stage decorated with that year’s theme, which
can be anything from Don Quixote to the Far East or Latin America. Major events
include the selection of the Carnival Queen and of the Drag Queen of Carnival,
both of which are all-ticket events but are televised live. Most nights of the week
during Carnival there’s something going on in Parque Santa Catalina and, whether
you dress up or not, it’s easy to enjoy the carnival spirit. The Burial of the Sardine
(Entierro de la Sardina) marks the end of Carnival: tens of thousands follow a giant
effigy of a sardine through the city’s streets from Parque San Telmo in Triana to
the beach at Las Canteras, many wearing the costumes of the amateur marching
bands that are a fixture of the carnival season or dressed as weeping widows.
When the procession reaches the beach, an honour guard places the sardine on
an offshore platform and it is burnt. A spectacular firework display then brings the
festivities to an end for another year. For more information on proceedings check
out w www.laspalmascarnaval.com.
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71
pavement cafés and the more nightlife in Las Palmas, with
open eastern side by former everything from restaurants and
warehouses now converted to salsa clubs to chillout lounges,
cultural and leisure use. One gay bars and a sizeable red-
of these, the Museo Elder light element. Note that as the
(entrance on Plaza Comandante night wears on parts of the area
Ramón Franco; Tues–Sun develop a sleazy edge.
10am–8pm; w www.museoelder.
org; e5) is the most child- Playa de las Canteras
friendly attraction in Las Palmas, West-facing, 3km-long

a highly interactive science Playa de las Canteras is one
and technology museum with of Europe’s truly great city
everything from a cutaway beaches, protected by an
Smart Car to environmentally- offshore reef, La Barra, that
themed displays and a hands-on makes it safe for swimming,
exploratorium – some of the and backed by the traffic-free
exhibits are labelled in English Paseo Canteras, which offers
– plus an IMAX cinema on plenty of opportunities for
the top floor with one showing people-watching and café
daily in English with prior lounging. On hot weekend
notice. Throughout the year afternoons, the beach becomes
festivals and live performances Las Palmas’ front room; in the
from Carnival to WOMAD use evening, the sunset stroll along
the parque as their main stage, the promenade is popular with
and it’s a rare week when there visitors and locals alike. For
isn’t something of interest going most of its length the beach is
on. By day, the streets between of fine, golden sand, with just
the square and the Playa de the very southern end, where
las Canteras are animated by the sea conditions are rougher
the comings and goings from and surfers and bodyboarders
the beach and by the dozens congregate, consisting of the
of Indian-owned electrical black sand more characteristic
shops – a feature here since the of Tenerife. The excellent
1960s. By night, the area holds facilities include showers,
the biggest concentration of changing rooms, umbrella hire
P L AYA D E L A S C A N T E R A S
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72
and hammocks. Las Canteras it stretches the distinctive
was once the most important volcanic moonscape of La Isleta
tourist beach on the island, but itself. Much of it is given over
package tourism slowly shifted to a military base, but there
to the more reliably sunny south is a residential district, Las
in the 1960s and 1970s, and it Coloradas, from which a stoney
has since assumed a more local and indistinct path leads past
character. five-a-side football pitches to
a superb view of Las Canteras’
La Isleta full sweep. Bus #41 goes to Las
The northern limit of Las Coloradas from Santa Catalina.

Palmas is marked by the
distinctive, rounded volcanic Puerto de la Luz
hills of La Isleta, a thinly settled Las Palmas’ port was built
and largely barren landscape in the second half of the
almost devoid of vegetation but nineteenth century to the plans
with good surfing possibilities of Juan de León y Castillo, the
on the coast and, from its engineer responsible for the
heights, wonderful views back lighthouse at Maspalomas and
to the city. The nicest approach whose life is commemorated by
to the area is along the a museum in his home town of
attractive clifftop promenade Telde (see p.80). It’s the largest
that starts from the rocky port in the Canaries and one of
headland of La Puntilla at the Spain’s biggest, a major transit
north end of the Playa de las point between Europe, Africa
Canteras and winds its way past and the Americas. Besides ferry
rocky coves popular with local and hydrofoil links to mainland
bathers. At the far end, a rough Spain and the other Canary
track leads down to the rocky Islands, it is a significant cruise
Playa del Confital, packed liner port. The best views are
out with surfers at weekends from the outdoor terraza bars
thanks to the best right-hand on the upper floors of the El
wave on the island. Beyond Muelle shopping centre, which
EL MUELLE
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73
overlooks the cruise liner Mercado Central
pier. Despite opposition from Calle Galicia. Open Mon–Sat 7am–2pm.
some residents, the city port Las Palmas’ largest market lacks
authority and Cabildo Insular the picturesque architecture of
(Island Council) are pressing the market in Vegueta, but it has
ahead with plans for extensive the same mix of excellent fish,
redevelopment to link the port meat, vegetable and deli stalls
more closely to the tourist making it the ideal place to
district behind Las Canteras. assemble a cheap picnic, and at
The architect Cesar Pelli, who the back of the 1950s building

designed the Petronas Towers there’s also a churrería for the
in Kuala Lumpur, was joint traditional clubber’s breakfast of
winner of a design competition hot chocolate with churros.
early in 2005. For now, the
El Muelle centre and the
ultra-modern, tilting Torre Hotels
Woermann skyscraper are the
main symbols of regeneration. AC Gran Canaria
Overlooking the port from the C/Eduardo Benot 3 t902 292 293,
north the Castillo de la Luz is wwww.ac-hotels.com. Towering
a squat fortress that was built at 26 storeys above the Parque
the time of the Spanish conquest Santa Catalina, this distinctive,
and extended in the seventeenth circular hotel is a spectacular
century. Surrounded by a small example of 1970s architecture,
but attractive park, in the past it its brutalist profile softened
served as a cultural centre, but is by geometric motifs cast
currently undergoing restoration into the concrete. It has a
and not open to the public. rooftop swimming pool and
a restaurant spread over the
23rd and 24th floors offering
Shops stunning views over the city
and Atlantic. Refurbishment has
El Corte Inglés created a stylish contemporary
Avenida José Mesa y López 15 & 18 city hotel, more business- than
t 928 263 000, w www.elcorteingles. tourist-oriented but very
es. Mon–Sat 10am–10pm. Gran convenient for the beach. The
Canaria’s largest department bedrooms sport elegant, dark
store is housed in two colour schemes, wood floors
mammoth modern buildings and excellent bathrooms. Non-
that face each other across the smoking rooms are available.
Avenida José Mesa y López. Air conditioned. e85.
The building on the north
side of the avenue contains the Hostal Alcaravaneras
fashion departments, a gourmet C/Luis Antúnez 22 t 928 248 914,
store on the second floor and a w www.canaryhostel.com. Basic but
large basement food hall with clean and friendly, with some
spectacular displays of fish and en-suites and TV in all rooms,
ham, plus plenty of foodie this hostel is a good budget
treats that make good gifts. option. The location is central
The other building contains without being too noisy: it’s
housewares, books, stationery, tucked into a residential district
music and a newsagent’s stall. close to Avenida Mesa y López
and the Playa de Alcaravaneras,
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74
with bus stops, neighbourhood many with floor to ceiling
restaurants and the market close windows and Juliet balconies;
by. e22. there are also a few singles and
triples decorated to the same
Hotel Faycán high standard. Bathrooms are
C/Nicolás Estévanez 61 t938 smartly finished in tile and
270 650, wwww.hotelfaycan.com. granite. The Paseo Canteras and
Convenient for Las Canteras the beach itself are only a few
beach and Parque Santa Catalina, metres away. e60.
the Faycán is a spacious, clean,
well-maintained three-star hotel, Hotel Reina Isabel

with comfortable if slightly old- C/Alfredo L. Jones 40 t 928 260
fashioned rooms in 1960s style 100, w www.bullhotels.com. This
for up to three people, plus a comfortable four-star hotel has
few singles and rooms for four. a stunning location right on
Rooms have satellite TV, fridge the seafront overlooking the
and telephone; bathrooms are Playa de Las Canteras. Many
smart, and some studios have rooms have wonderful sea
kitchens. e51. views, though cheaper ones
have rather less wonderful
Hotel Igramar vistas of the narrow street
C/Colombia 12 t 928 472 960, behind the hotel. The decor
w www.igramar.com. Officially throughout is smart if not
rated three stars, this recently particularly trendy – it was last
refurbished, air-conditioned refurbished in 1996 – and all
hotel at the quieter, southern rooms are air-conditioned with
end of Las Canteras represents TV, telephone, radio, en-suite
exceptionally good value for the bathroom and balcony. There’s
standard of comfort and decor a rooftop swimming pool
on offer. Doubles are furnished and a popular café facing the
in tasteful boutique hotel style, promenade. e96.
H O T E L S A N TA C ATA L I N A
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75
Hotel Santa Catalina Las Canteras and many of the
C/Léon y Castillo 227 t 928 243 apartments have a sea view.
040, w www.hotelsantacatalina.com. Each sleeps 2–3 and has kitchen,
Standing in splendid isolation telephone, bathroom and either
amid the palms of the Parque terrace or balcony. e33.
Doramas, this five-star, luxury
hotel is of the old school and
the traditional choice of visiting Cafés
VIPS: past guests have included
Prince Charles, Maria Callas Bar Carabela

and the Spanish royal family. Hotel Santa Catalina, Avda Léon y
The imposing architecture and Castillo 227. Daily 10am–1am. The
grand decor of the public areas bar and veranda of the Hotel
are matched in the rooms and Santa Catalina is a wonderfully
suites, which are furnished atmospheric place to stop for a
in traditional style. Facilities light meal or drink, thanks to
include a spa and indoor and the impressive architecture of
outdoor saltwater pools, and the old hotel, the lush setting
there’s golf available for guests in the Parque Doramas and the
at the El Cortijo course just urbane, efficient service. The
south of the city. e197. chicken club sandwich is very
generous, the tea good and
Hotel Valencia prices surprisingly reasonable.
C/Valencia 4 t 928 292 584, f 928
230 929. In a very central Cafetería Carruso
position on a side street close Plazoleta de Farray 5 t 928 222 694.
to the Mercado Central and Daily 8.30am–1 or 2am. This cheap
the shops of Avenida Mesa y and cheerful neighbourhood
López, the Valencia is a bright, café is one of a number on
attractive two-star hotel the pleasant little Plazoleta de
furnished in 1960s style, with Farray, where you can eat al
spacious, comfortable doubles fresco under the palms and
plus a few singles and triples, listen to the plashing of the
all with bath. Some rooms fountain or the laughter of
have balconies. Breakfast is not children playing. Prices start
included, but there are plenty at around e2 for a sandwich,
of affordable eating places while the platos combinados offer
nearby. e45. a hearty approximation to an
Anglo-Saxon fry-up.
Apartments Cañas y Tapas

Plaza de España 5. Daily 8am–
Apartamentos Marsin Playa midnight. Part of a national
Luis Morote 54 t 928 270 808, chain, this Madrileño-style
w www.marsinplaya.com.These tapas bar is one of a number of
simple but clean and bright bars and terrazas on the plaza,
apartments are block-booked which is a popular spot to sit
by Scandinavian travel agents and watch the traffic go by. It
during the winter months but serves reasonably-priced toasted
are available at bargain prices sandwiches, salads and tapas plus
from mid-April to the end more elaborate set menus. The
of October. The complex is beers include Kronenbourg and
located right on the Playa de San Miguel.
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76
Terraza la Marina Bodegón del Pueblo Canario
Hotel Reina Isabel, C/Alfredo L. Jones Pueblo Canario, Parque Doramas
40 t 928 260 100. Daily 10.30am– t 928 242 985. Daily 11am–midnight;
midnight. The seafront terrace of restaurant 11am–4pm & 7–11pm.
the posh Reina Isabel hotel is With its broad terrace taking
the prime spot for swanky café up much of the courtyard of
lounging on the Paseo de las the Pueblo Canario, this is one
Canteras. They make a decent of the relatively sparse dining
pot of tea, there’s a full bar, plenty options in this largely residential
of shade and sooner or later part of town. The food
everyone in Las Palmas walks past – calamares a la Romana, papas

here. On Sundays they prepare arrugadas, fresh fish and the like
paella here right in front of the – is good, if not especially cheap
diners. Prices are reasonable. at e3.50–7 for tapas dishes.
They have traditional Canarian
folk dancing shows here on
Restaurants Sundays from 11.30am–1pm
Anthuriun Candombe
AC Gran Canaria, C/Eduardo Benot 3 C/Sargento Llagas 43 t 928 270 565.
t 928 244 908. Daily 1.30–3.20pm Daily 1–5pm & 8pm–midnight, Fri &
& 8.30–11.30pm. The sweeping Sat till 1am. There’s no real choice
views over the city and the at this popular, lively Brazilian
Atlantic from this smart churrascaría except how much to
modern restaurant are highly eat – the delicious grilled meat
memorable, while the food is a just keeps coming until you tell
fusion of traditional Canarian them to stop. This is the only
and Catalan cuisine with more restaurant in the island serving
modern influences, so that the cuisine of Rio Grande do
you might dine on tuna with Sul, Brazil’s southernmost state:
pistachio mojo or lamb chops the meat is carved from long
with couscous and coriander skewers at the table, and it’s all
pesto. Mains cost e15 and up. rather theatrical. Don’t fill up on
There’s a more intimate sister the warm bread, delicious dips
restaurant at C/Pi y Margall 10 or excellent salads if you want
in Alcaravaneras. to get full value from the e16
set price menu.
Casa Carmelo
Paseo de las
Canteras 2
t 928 469 056.
Daily 1–5pm &
8pm–midnight.
Exceptionally
delicious
morcilla (blood
sausage) and
simply but
beautifully
prepared steaks
are the stock
PUEBLO CANARIO in trade of this
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77
well-known restaurant at the beach. It’s one of the best bets
northern end of the Paseo de for veggies in the north of the
las Canteras, though they also city, since you can feast mezze
do mountainous salads. Service style on the likes of fatoush,
is efficient, if a little abrupt at babaganoush or tabbouleh without
times, and you can expect to pay the need to resort to meat. That
around e13 for a main course. said, the lamb is rather good.
Mains cost e7.
Hermanos Rogelio
C/Manuel González Martín 36, corner Restaurante Roma

C/Valencia t 928 248 680. Daily Paseo de las Canteras 1 t 928
12.30–5.30pm & 7.30pm–12.30am. 486 112. Open 1–4.30pm &
This pleasant, unpretentious 8pm–12.30am. Solid, traditional
Alcaravaneras restaurant is a Italian restaurant right on the
good place to dine tapas-style beachfront at the north end of
for around e9 a dish. The papas the Paseo Canteras, with kitschy
arrugadas are particularly fine, murals and a good selection of
the pulpo a la gallega (octopus pizza and fresh pasta dishes, plus
with paprika and olive oil) sea views from some tables.
generous and two media raciones
each should be enough for all Rias Bajas
but the most ravenous. The C/Simón Bolivar 3, Edificio Saba t 928
brothers’ empire has colonized 273 461. Daily 1–4pm & 8pm–midnight.
three out of four corners of the The tank full of live crustacea
intersecting streets outside, so takes pride of place in this long-
the formula clearly works. established and well-regarded
Galician fish restaurant close to
La Marinera the port. The atmosphere is a
La Puntilla, Paseo de las Canteras little snooty and traditional – so
t 928 468 802. Daily 1pm–2am. smart dress is a good idea – and
It may not be the best fish you should expect to pay around
restaurant in Las Palmas, but this e20 for a fish main course.
sister to Casa Carmelo certainly
has the most beautiful site,
among the rock pools at the Bars
northern end of the Playa de las
Canteras. Come around sunset, Café Tequila
stick to whatever’s fresh and C/Secretario Artiles 44. Tues–Sun 8pm–
simple – the fancier concoctions 2.30am. This trendy newcomer
don’t always convince – and you bills itself as a chillout café,
should have a memorable meal. which might have something
E3–6 for tapas, e11 for mains. to do with the tequila – around
e5 with mixer – but might
Los Cedros equally be due to the subdued
C/Martínez de Escobar 68 t 928 269 lighting, soft colour scheme
667. Tues–Sun 1–4.30pm & 7.30pm– and comfortable seating; there’s
12.30am. The Ibiza-style dance even a giant bed out back. The
music soundtrack makes an soundtrack is R&B and there’s
interesting contrast to the 1960s space to dance up front.
tourist posters of Beirut and
Baalbek at this pleasantly old- The Camel Bar
fashioned Lebanese restaurant, C/León y Castillo 389. Mon–Sat 8pm–
just a few steps from Canteras 2.30am. One of the most popular
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78
bars in the area, the Camel Bar is fun and there’s no shortage of
decorated with camel heads and places to sit and chat for the
other references to the famous diverse, convivial crowd. A Cuba
cigarette brand and attracts a Libre (rum and coke) will cost
young, boisterous, if mainstream around e5.50; they also sell
crowd, who seem to go for the Cuban cigars.
chart sounds on the playlist.
Gran Terraza Lolita Pluma Clubs

Parque Santa Catalina. Daily 9.30am–
1.30am. A handy pit stop for a Dojo

light snack or beer on Parque C/Presidente Alvear 69 t 928 492
Santa Catalina, this terraza is 585, w www.dojolaspalmas.com.
also a slice of local colour. The Thurs–Sat 12.30–5am. One of the
name recalls a well-known local newest and hippest clubs in the
eccentric, Lolita Pluma (Lolita north of Las Palmas, with cool
Feather in English), who eked decor, eye-catching podium
out a living selling chewing dancers and a changing array
gum to tourists whilst caring of inventive themed events,
for the local street cats, and who including 60s, 70s and 80s nights
was known for her exotic dress and Ibiza-style white parties.
sense and lurid make-up. She Flyers and downloads from the
died in 1988, but her portrait club website give free drinks
still adorns the outside wall. and two-for-one offers.
Ronería Museo del Ron Pacha

C/Secretario Artiles 42 t 928 265 200. C/Simón Bolivar 3 t 928 271 684.
Mon–Sat 9.30pm–late.This is the Open 11pm–5.30am. The yachtie
obvious place to order a mojito trappings at this Las Palmas
in Las Palmas, since getting outpost of the Pacha empire
pleasantly blurred on one of 300 resemble those at the Playa del
rums from 25 countries is the Inglés branch and – given the
whole purpose of this spacious portside location – hint at the
bar. They stock every variety likely origins of many of its
produced in Gran Canaria itself, well-heeled clientele, which
the “Treasure Island” decor is includes the occasional celebrity.
THE CAMEL BAR
Contents Places
79
There’s no terraza, so the distinguished Las Palmas-born
emphasis is firmly on the dance tenor Alfredo Kraus, opened in
floor, where the 35 to 50-plus 1997 on a breathtaking site at
crowd gets down to salsa and the southern end of the Playa
disco. There’s no cover charge de las Canteras. In addition to
but drinks are expensive and being home to the Orquesta
you’ll need smart casual dress to Filarmónica de Gran Canaria, it
get in the door. stages the Canary Islands’ Music
Festival (w www.festivaldecanarias.
com) at the start of the year

Lesbian & gay which regularly attracts
conductors and performers
bars and clubs of international standing. It is
also one of the venues for the
Bridge Club Iron annual summer Jazz Festival
C/Mariana Pineda 17. Daily 10pm– w www.canariasjazz.com) and
3am. Giant, blown-up pics of the International Film festival in
Hollywood stars looking rough the spring (w www.festivalcine-
decorate the monochrome laspalmas.com).
interior of Bridge Club Iron, the
most convivial of Las Palmas’ El Palacío Latino
gay bars. There’s nothing C/Luis Morote 51. Open daily. The
rough, however, about the largest Cuban club in the city
predominantly well-dressed, is an absolute must for any
rather middle-class crowd of fan of latin music. The South
30- and 40-something men and Seas-style decor may not be to
their heterosexual friends. everyone’s taste and the venue
is a little faded, but the live salsa
Miau bands at this spacious venue are
C/Martínez de Escobar 37. Daily 9pm– excellent, and the atmosphere
3am, later at weekends. Las Palmas’ is irresistible. From Monday
gay scene fights to compete to Thursday salsa lessons are
with the siren call of the gay available from 9.30–11.30pm;
nightlife in the island’s south on Saturdays there’s a daytime
by staying resolutely hispanic. salsa session from 5am–11pm;
The friendly and mostly local Sundays are frequently given
crowd at Miau, the liveliest over to concerts. Drinks are at
gay club in the city, freaks out club prices.
unashamedly to the infectious A L F R E D K R A U S S TAT U E
South American pop, and the
best policy is simply to join
in. Mostly gay male, but some
lesbians and heteros too.
Live music
Auditorio Alfredo Kraus
Avda Príncipe de Asturias t 928 491
773, w www.auditorio-alfredokraus.com;
box office 10am–2pm & 4.30–8.30pm
t 902 405 504. This magnificent
concert hall, named after
Contents Places
80
Telde and around

With a population of around 100,000, big, bustling Telde
is Gran Canaria’s second city, with the commerce and
heavy traffic to match its size and importance. There
was already a settlement here in pre-Hispanic times,
its ancient significance reflected by the major archeo-
logical sites of Cuatro Puertas and Poblado de Tufia,
Telde and around P L A C ES
and in the many reproductions of the town’s unofficial

symbol, the Ídolo de Tara, a red pre-Hispanic fertility
sculpture now exhibited in the Museo Canario in Las
Palmas. Though its fringes are sprawling and industrial,
at its heart Telde has three distinct historic neighbour-
hoods, the barrios of San Juan, San Francisco and San
Gregorio, each with its own character and all reward-
ing to explore. Locals are also justifiably proud of the
municipality’s coastline and its wide variety of beaches,
from the broad, urban strand at Melenara to the low-
key charms of Agua Dulce or Ojos de Garza. They’re
all the haunt of locals rather than visitors. Inland, the
land to the west climbs steeply to the lush Barranco de
los Cernícalos, a beautiful spot for a walk and one of
the few places on the island where you can see flowing
water all year round. The upland town of Valsequillo,
most easily reached from Telde, stands in a very scenic
setting that is particularly beautiful at almond blossom
time in February.
San Juan perhaps as grand as those of

Telde’s grandest and most Vegueta in Las Palmas but
architecturally distinguished just as dignified, and equally
barrio is the so-called zona enjoyable to explore. At its
fundacional (foundation area) of heart is the fine set-piece of the
San Juan. It’s one of the most Plaza de San Juan Bautista,
extensive historic districts in fringed by the main civil and
Gran Canaria, with streets of religious buildings, including the
graceful colonial houses, not ayuntamiento (town hall), and the
Visiting Telde
Arriving in Telde from the motorway, the main historic districts are laid out either
side of the park of San Gregorio and the wide, straight Avenida del Cabildo Insular;
the pedestrian promenade down the centre of the avenue is known as the Rambla
de San Gregorio. Telde’s tourist information office is in a single-storey colonial
house in San Juan at C/León y Castillo 2 (Mon–Fri 8am–3pm; t 828 013 312,
w www.ayuntamientodetelde.org).
Contents Places
81
Jinamar GC-1 0 2 km
TELDE & AROUND
A
GC-80
GC-100
La Garita
Playa de
Mirador de
Helechal Telde GC-10 la Garita
GC-102
GC-41
1
Valsequillo
Playa de
Melenara
N Lomo Magullo
P L A C ES
Playa de
la Salinetas
GC-100
ACCOMMODATION El Goro Poblado de Tufia
Hotel Rural El Cortijo GC-140
GC-130
San Ignacio Golf A
GC-1 Playa de Tufia
Cuatro
Telde and around

Cazadores RESTAURANT Puertas
Restaurante Playamar 1 Ojos de Garza
Basilica Menor de San Juan San Pedro Mártir de Verona

Bautista (daily 9am–12.30pm is used for art exhibitions (daily
& 5–8pm), which dates from 8am–3pm & 5–9pm; free).
the town’s foundation in the late Telde’s most important museum
fourteenth century and whose lies a few hundred metres south
eclectic art and architecture along C/León y Castillo. The
reflect its long history. The Museo de León y Castillo
church’s sixteenth-century (Mon–Fri 8am–8pm, Sat
Gothic portal is flanked by 10am–8pm, Sun 10am–1pm;
two early twentieth-century t928 691 377; free), grouped
towers; inside, there’s a splendid around a couple of lovely
early sixteenth-century Flemish patios with galleried wooden
Gothic altar, which is framed by balconies, was the birthplace
a later, eighteenth-century altar. of Telde’s most famous sons,
The image of Christ on the Fernando and Juan de León y
cross came from the Americas Castillo and is a typical Canario
and was made from corn paste house of the colonial era in
using a technique developed Mudéjar style. Fernando, a
by the indigenous people of politician and diplomat, rose
Michoacán in Mexico. The to be a minister in the Spanish
figures of San Pedro Mártir government and ambassador
de Verona and of San Juan to France during the nineteeth
Evangelista date from the end century, and the bulk of the
of the eighteenth century and displays reflect his glittering
the beginning of the nineteenth, career, with the case that held
and are by the notable Canarian his ambassadorial credentials
sculptor José Lujan Pérez. and a splendid Sèvres et
There’s an appealing little Limoges table centrepiece.
children’s park with a small Rather less glamorously, Juan
aviary close to the basilica on was an engineer who drew up
C/Licenciado Calderín, while the plans for the magnificent
northwest of the plaza, on C/ harbour of Puerto de la Luz
Juan Carlos I, the seventeenth- in Las Palmas – a legacy that is
century Renaissance church of arguably more enduring than
Contents Places
82
0 approx. 250 m
TELDE
CO
RAN RESTAURANTS,
EF
NT
DE
DA
CALDERÍN
AN
CAFÉS & BARS
RAN
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Cafetería–Plaza 1
CO
AG
La Pizza 2
VEG
Children’s Park
LA
& Aviary
DO
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San Pedro
NCIA
SAN JUAN
DE
Mártir de Verona JU
N
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CON
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Plaza San
CA
Basilica de
PR
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Juan Bautista San Juan
OF
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San Francisco
O
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GC-1 Motorway
ZA NÁ
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AL SÉ
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S EN NÍ
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CA León y Castillo AL
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Bus Station
IO
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San Gregorio S PO
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San Gregorio LE
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that of any politician. There’s of the two plazas in front of

an English language leaflet the church of San Francisco it’s
available at reception. possible to look out across the
valley over orange groves and
San Francisco banana plantations. The church
Close to the tourist office at itself is usually locked.
the foot of C/León y Castillo,
the peaceful lane of Inés San Gregorio
Chemida leads to the barrio Telde’s third historic barrio
of San Francisco, the most is also the main commercial
beguiling part of Telde. A huddle heart of Telde and, during the
of simple, mostly single-storey day, the most animated district
whitewashed houses and secret in town. Though it lacks the
gardens with bougainvillea lost-in-time feel of San Juan
tumbling over the walls, its or San Francisco, the imposing
winding streets and sleepy plazas Neoclassical church of San
have a distinctly rural feel; the Gregorio is worth a look.
steep C/Altozano is particularly Designed by Diego Nicolás
picturesque. From the further Eduardo – who also designed
Contents Places
83
P L A C ES
BARRIO SAN FRANCISCO
Telde and around

the church at Aguïmes – it welcome to visitors is these days
has outstanding altarpieces by a good deal warmer.
Arencibia Gil, an image of San
Gregorio Taumaturgo by José The northern beaches
Lujan Pérez and a nineteenth- North of Melenara, and beyond
century carving of the Virgin the imposing, if bland, Instituto
of Dolores by Silvestre Bello. Canario de Ciencas Marinas
The little plaza in front of the (not open to the public),
church is attractive, and in the modern suburban housing
streets around it isolated colonial spreads along the coast to
houses survive among the more the breezy Playa del Hombre
modern development. – popular with surfers and
bodyboarders but devoid of
Playa de Melenara facilities – and on to the dark
4km east of Telde; hourly white bus sandy Hoya del Pozo, which
(no number) from Rambla de San is the most sheltered beach in
Gregorio in central Telde. By car take these parts and therefore the
the GC-102 road from central Telde; best for a swim. Even further
Melenara is east of the autopista and on is the more developed Playa
well signposted. Backed by an de la Garita, another dark
attractive traffic-free promenade volcanic sand beach which has
and with a good choice of several restaurants and a couple
restaurants on the seafront of defensive bunkers dating
offering Canarian cuisine and from World War II, as well as a
fresh seafood, the broad beach surfing and bodyboarding zone.
of Playa de Melenara is the A broad, well-made footpath
most impressive of Telde’s urban follows the rocky coast; from
beaches. The 600-metre curve of Melenara to La Garita it’s about
fine, dark basaltic sand is looked 3km.
over from an offshore rock by
a bronze statue of Neptune, Playa de Salinetas
the Atlantic rollers crashing at Easily reached on foot along
his feet. The British privateer the coast south of Playa de
and explorer Sir Francis Drake Melenara is Playa de Salinetas,
landed here in 1595 while a sandy cove where the houses
attacking the island, but was open directly onto the beach,
repulsed by local herdsmen; with numerous pathways
though Melenara remains between them offering access
very much a locals’ beach, the to the sands. This is the
Contents Places
Telde and around P L A C ES 84
P L AYA T U F I A
traditional summer resort of been reoccupied recently. The

the families of Telde; today it’s owners’ fishing boats are moored
used among others by surfers in the bay, and offshore there’s
and bodyboarders. It’s also a more good diving.
popular residential area, with
considerable new development Ojos de Garza
inland from the beach. 2km south of Tufia; take airport exit
from GC-1, follow signs for Base Aerea
Poblado de Tufia then bear left. Bus #19 or #36 from
6km southeast of Telde; exit GC-1 Telde bus station. Ojos de Garza
is a tiny settlement made up of
motorway at El Goro industrial zone; no
a single row of whitewashed
public transport. Daily 8am–8pm. Free.
Straddling a narrow headland fishermen’s houses fronting the
at the entrance to the fishing wide pebble and sand beach
settlement of Punta de Silva – when the surf is up here,
is the Poblado de Tufia, one the sea can seem dramatically
of the largest pre-Hispanic close. It’s a very low-key place,
archeological sites on the island, with few facilities other than
with caves and rough stone a single café, but in an island
houses in two principal clusters. so single-mindedly geared to
Its windswept location on a tiny tourism its lack of development
headland, no more than a couple is appealing. The coast here is
of hundred metres wide at its rich in bird life and sea urchins,
narrowest, is undeniably dramatic, while the Roque de Gando
though unfortunately the site is (Rock of Gando) forms a major
fenced off and sometimes locked. coastal feature here.
It overlooks two small beaches:
to the north, the small, sheltered Cuatro Puertas
golden sandy cove of Agua 6km south of Telde on GC-100,
Dulce (literally “sweet water”), signposted from the main road.
where the sea is exceptionally Global bus #35 from Telde. Mon–Fri
clear; it’s a good spot for diving. 8am–8pm. Free.The stark red
To the south, the at times rather mountain of Montaña Bermeja
wild and windy sandy beach was a sacred site to the ancient
of Playa de Tufia lies at the Canarios, and the Cuatro Puertas
foot of a low, rocky cliff into complex remains one of the
which fishermen built their cave most atmospheric pre-Hispanic
dwellings – some of which have sites on the island, thanks to its
Contents Places
85
superbly scenic location as much with panoramas of the dense
as for the undeniably impressive broom and wild olives that
remains. On the crest of the hill cloak the sides of the valley;
stands an almogaren – a site for in winter in particular when
rituals during which priests made the rainfall is higher the valley
offerings to earn the favour of bottom can be a vivid green.
the gods. A series of artificially Most of the route is only
excavated channels and bowls moderately difficult, but you
in the rock here would have should take care on some
been filled with milk and other stretches where there’s a danger
P L A C ES
liquids as part of the ceremony. of slipping in the wet along
The site takes its name – “four the riverbed and on the cliffs,
doors” – from the four square or if attempting to climb the
carved entrances to a large cave falls. Wear proper walking boots
Telde and around

to the right of the entrance to and be aware that in periods
the complex. The cave’s purpose of sustained wet weather the
is unclear, though it’s not water-course becomes a fully
thought to have been a living fledged river and the path is
area. Across the crest of the hill sometimes entirely impassable.
the cave dwellings of Los Pilares
are intriguing to explore, though Valsequillo
note that despite a retaining wall 10km west of Telde on GC-41. Bus
and rope handrail it’s occasionally #13 or #43 from Plaza San Juan,
steep here and it can be a bit of Telde. In a lush, hilly setting
a scramble to reach the furthest high above Telde and reached
caves. Outside the Cueva de los through orange groves and
Papeles you can still see the holes posh suburbia, the little town of
for door posts and a drinking Valsequillo has a tiny historic
trough; inside, the carved core clustered around the large,
triangles for which it is known early twentieth-century church
– thought to be fertility symbols of San Miguel, with a couple of
– are rather indistinct. basic café-bars for refreshment.
The main reason for coming
Barranco de los Cernícalos here, however, is the town’s
Lomo Magullo, 6km west of Telde on a lovely setting in an eroded
minor road or via the GC-130, turning caldera. This is an exceptionally
right at La Colomba. From the
village of Lomo Magullo
a marked path ascends
the lush, well-watered
valley of the Barranco
de los Cernícalos to a
series of beautiful year-
round waterfalls – a real
rarity on Gran Canaria. A
comfortable walk lasting
2–3 hours takes you from
the reed-covered valley
floor to the deep cleft
that forms the main falls.
The path follows the
watercourse through a
wood of willow trees, BARRANCO DE LOS CERNÍCALOS
Contents Places
86
beautiful part of the island, and only the looming presence
especially in February when across the valley of the ugly
Valsequillo, together with its suburb of Jimamar dents the air
neighbours Tenteniguada, Las of blissful repose. e90.
Vegas and La Barrera link up
to run a festival celebrating the
ruta de almendro en flor (see Cafes,
p.177) and the green hills are
enlivened by beautiful almond restaurants and
blossom. During the festival the
roads hereabouts are packed bars

with locals moving from town
to town, and each village has Cafetería–Plaza
its stalls selling local food and C/León y Castillo 7, San Juan, Telde.
drink at the side of the road Spacious café-bar, handily
with perhaps a goat or two located just across from the
roasting slowly over a fire. High tourist office, is a pleasant spot
above Valsequillo, a well-surfaced for a cheap, light lunch – tortilla
road spirals up to the Mirador española with a roll and alioli
de Helechal viewpoint, from (garlic mayonnaise) will set you
where there’s a superb view of back less than e2.
deep green valleys and terraced
hillsides. The road to the La Pizza
mirador is signposted and exits Avda Cabildo Insular 2, San Gregorio,
the main road by a petrol station Telde t 928 682 834. Daily 1.30–4pm
before you reach the town & 8pm–midnight, Fri & Sat till 2am.
centre, circling the residential Large pizza and pasta restaurant
outskirts before emerging above on the fringe of the Rambla de
the old town. San Gregorio in the centre of
Telde. Pizza size is generous, the
salads are big and the tortelloni
Hotels in a cream and mushroom sauce
is very good. Prices start around
Hotel Rural El Cortijo San the e5 mark.
Ignacio Golf
GC-1 motorway km 6.4, El Cortijo exit Restaurante Playamar
t 928 712 427, w www.cortijosanig- C/Luis Morote 45, Melenara t 928
naciogolf.com. Surrounded by an 133 007. Mon, Wed, Thurs & Sun
18-hole golf course, this lovely noon–midnight, Fri & Sat noon–1am,
small hotel, north of Telde, closed Tues.Wonderful, thick, dhal-
has just sixteen double and like gofio escaldado with red onion,
two single rooms. It occupies fresh mint and green mojo makes
a beautiful whitewashed an excellent and filling start to a
eighteenth-century farmhouse, meal at this beachfront restaurant,
tucked behind high walls and and the papas arrugadas are tip-
with its public rooms furnished top too. Starter portions are big
elegantly in country house style. enough for two to share, while
The exposed beams, stonework the fresh fish is simple but good.
and galleried wooden balconies Mains cost around e7. For the
add to the atmosphere. There’s a best views over the beach and the
very attractive pool area. Rooms Neptune statue offshore, try to
are simple and tasteful, with bag a table in the upstairs dining
iron beds and wooden furniture, room.
Contents Places
87
The east coast

The east of Gran Canaria is the first part of the island
many visitors see on their journey south from the air-
port, but the industrial zones, modern urban sprawl and
wind farms to either side of the GC-1 motorway scarce-
ly suggest a holiday paradise, with only the mountains
to the west and the shimmering Atlantic to the east
P L A C ES The east coast

hinting at the region’s extensive charms. Once away
from the motorway, in the beautiful valley of the Bar-
ranco de Guayadeque, in the historic towns of Aguïmes
and Ingenio, or in the numerous small coastal villages
and beaches you’ll find the real key to the area’s appeal.
For active visitors, this stretch of coast has the island’s
best windsurfing and some of its best diving, along with
some wonderful scenery for nature lovers and walkers,
while for foodies the little towns of Arinaga or Castillo
del Romeral are as good a place as any to enjoy the
simple Canario pleasure of fresh fish, grilled straight
from the sea.
Ingenio 1901 and contains a Gothic

Ingenio sprawls uphill eastwards altar, though sadly you’ll
along the northern side of the probably find it locked unless
Barranco de Guayadeque, from there’s a service on. The narrow,
the largely modern district of winding old streets on the
Carrizal alongside the GC- north side of the church make
1 motorway to the original for pleasant strolling. Ingenio is
town of Ingenio itself, where well known for its handicrafts
most points of interest are industries, particularly its open-
concentrated. The old town weave tablecloths, which make
clusters around the spacious, pricey if authentic souvenirs
attractive Plaza de la Candelaria, of a trip to the island. To the
dominated by the twin towers east of the old town, at C/
and dome of the Iglesia de la Pascual Richart 2, the Casa de
Candelaria, which dates from Postas (Mon–Fri 9am–8pm)
Visiting the east coast

The east of the island is well served by Global’s bus network (w www.globalsu.net),
with buses from Las Palmas to Ingenio and Aguïmes (#11 & #21) and Castillo del
Romeral (#8), and Arinaga served by buses from Aguïmes (#22) and Maspalomas
(#25). Bus #35 links Aguïmes with Ingenio and Telde every two hours. The two
main towns both have a tourist office: Ingenio’s is west of the old town, just off
the GC-100 road in the Casa de Postas, C/Pascual Richart 2 (Mon–Fri 9am–8pm;
t 928 783 799, w www.villadeingenio.org); the one in Aguïmes is in the Centro
de Interpretación del Casco Histórico on Plaza de San Antonio Abad (Mon–Fri
9am–3pm, Sat & Sun 9am–2pm, closes one hour earlier in summer; t 928 124
183, w www.aguimes.es).
Contents Places
88
GC-103
Ba rranco GC-120
GC-1
de
(1.5km)
Cueva Bermeja Museo de Piedras
Gu
y Artesanía
ay
Gran Canaria
ad
Centro de Interpretación Ingenio Airport
equ
Casa de Postas
1
e
GC-196 Carrizal
GC-550
Temisas & Santa Lucia
2 A B GC-192
Playa del Burrero
Agüimes
Los Corralillos
GC-551
GC-191
The east coast P L A C ES
Cocodrilo Playa de Vargas

Park GC-100
GC-104 Cruce de Arinaga

GC-1 Montaña de
Arinaga
GC-65 Playa del Cabrón
El Cruce
GC-65
3 Risco Verde
Arinaga
GC-105 Vecindarío EATING

Cofradía de Pescadores
N Castillo del Romeral 5
El Doctoral
El Alpendre 2
El Oroval A
GC-194
4
El Rincón de Arinaga 3
Pozo Izquierdo El Viento 4
C Tagoror 1
GC-1
ACCOMMODATION
Centro Internacional de Windsurfing C
Juan Grande Hotel Rural Casa de los Camellos A
GC-500
Hotel Villa de Aguïmes B
5
Castillo el Romeral
0 2 km
THE EAST COAST
is an attractive gallery complex 6.30pm; free). This Museum

grouped around a traditional of Rocks and Crafts contains,
patio; it provides a venue for as the name suggests, a small
changing exhibitions by local collection of quartz, minerals
artists and also houses the town’s and glass, but really the place is
tourist information office. an oddball, if likeable, miscellany.
Ingenio was a centre of the They sell the characteristic
island’s sugar industry, which local open-weave cloth here,
boomed during the sixteenth plus locally sourced aloe vera
century before being ruined by products, cigars and flower
competition from the Americas perfumes. There’s also a chapel,
– the name Ingenio means sugar some noisy parrots and hens
mill and an example decorates on the patio outside, and a café
a roundabout on the road and bar.
between the town centre and
the district of Carrizal. North Playa del Burrero
of the crossroads in the centre Incongruously tucked under
of Ingenio on C/Camino Real the final approach to the
de Gando stands the Museo de airport, Ingenio’s windy main
Piedras y Artesanía Canaria beach, Playa del Burrero, is a
de Ingenio (Mon–Sat 8am– windsurfers’ and locals’ haunt,
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89

B A R R A N C O D E G U AYA D E Q U E
where the roar of the surf mixes young volcanic material less than
with the roar of the planes. The 300,000 years old, but down at
beach’s fine sand and shingle sea level the geology dates back
is backed by a smart new 14 million years. Halfway up the
promenade and some attractive valley the cave village of Cueva
residential development, and Bermeja, with its chapel carved
a few fishing boats still pull out of the rock and whitewashed
up at the northern end of the house fronts opening onto cave
sand. Quite the oddest place to dwellings that are still inhabited,
bathe in Gran Canaria, however, still holds on though in general
is surely the little beach of the human population of the
San Agustín just to the north, barranco is dwindling, down
nestling at the foot of a low cliff from 450 in 1970 to just 172
and with the airport perimeter at the end of the century.
fence slicing across it. Cueva Bermeja is a reliable
and photogenic pitstop for
Barranco de Guayadeque camera-clicking bus tours, but
Signposted from GC-100 road in to make sense of this stunning
Aguïmes. The highly scenic landscape it’s a good idea to visit
Barranco de Guayadeque is one the Centro de Interpretación
of the most archeologically and at the valley entrance first (see
ecologically important ravines p.90). The barranco is a mass of
on the island. Cutting up from flowering plants, and particularly
the coast to pass between the lush and green in the late winter,
towns of Ingenio and Aguïmes when the almond trees are in
before slicing deep into the blossom higher up the valley. It’s
rugged interior of the island, it a paradise for walkers: several
shelters within its boundaries a footpaths of varying difficulties
couple of plant species that don’t are marked on a map issued by
grow anywhere else, along with the tourist office in Ingenio,
fascinating remnants of the pre- including a couple which reach
Hispanic islanders’ cave dwelling as far inland as the volcanic
past. At the top of the ravine, its crater of Caldera de los Marteles.
rocks are composed of relatively
Contents Places
90
Centro de Interpretación de easy to excavate but unlikely to
Guayadeque collapse. A mummy, found in the
Tues–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–6pm. nineteenth century in a cave in
e2.40. The stylish modernist Guayadeque, lends an enjoyably
front of this impressive museum spooky note for children, and
conceals a cave network that there’s an enlightening section
burrows into the side of on the agriculture and diet of
the barranco and houses the the original inhabitants which
exhibition space. Particularly suggests that, if not quite an
engrossing are the sections earthly paradise, pre-Hispanic
explaining how the scrubby Gran Canaria was a healthy and

vegetation of the semi-arid bountiful land.
coast gradually changes into
the lushness of the ravine’s Aguïmes
higher reaches. The section Neat, pleasant Aguïmes is one
on the indigenous Canarios of the most interesting towns in
describes the various prehistoric the east of the island, set in an
sites scattered around the open landscape of volcanic hills
barranco – including the Cueva that are carpeted in winter with
de Morros de Avila with its brilliant vegetation, including
geometric paintings, and the succulents and flowering shrubs.
funeral caves of Puntón del The best views of the town and
Guirre or Cuevas de la Bota its domed church are from the
which are, characteristically, on road to Santa Lucia or from
the shady side of the valley. The the Barranco de Guayadeque
indigenous peoples carved their that separates the town from its
cave dwellings in the valley sides northern neighbour, Ingenio.
of Guayadeque because the rock Aguïmes has an attractive,
was soft but resistant, and so compact casco histórico clustered
around the imposing domed
C E N T R O D E I N T E R P R E TA C I Ó N
Neoclassical church of San
Sebastián, designed by Diego
Nicolás Eduardo, consecrated
in 1808 and regarded as one of
the best examples of Canario
classicism. Sadly it’s usually
locked unless there’s a service
on. The town was the seat of a
bishopric from 1486 until 1837
– a time when much church
property on the island was
being sold off – which explains
the splendour of the church
compared to the simplicity of
the rest of Aguïmes. The town
predates the Spanish, though
pretty much everything you
now see dates from after the
1478 conquest. In contrast to
towns in the north of the island,
where agricultural prosperity led
to more elaborate architecture,
most of Aguïmes’ houses are
Contents Places
91
quite humble,
single storey
affairs, reflecting
the relative
poverty of the
district, which
led to large-
scale emigration
to Cuba,
Puerto Rico

and elsewhere.
Beautifully
maintained
thanks to the
ayuntamiento,
some of the
larger houses
have been put AGUÏMES
to institutional
use: of these, the Casa de from Faro de Maspalomas. Daily
Mujer (Women’s Centre) on except Sat 10am–5pm. e9.90, e6.90
C/Sol is perhaps the most children. With not just crocodiles
attractive, with a typical wooden but birds, tigers, chimpanzees
galleried patio that is well worth and snakes, Cocodrilo Park is no
a look if the door is open. To mere menagerie but a zoo with
gain a better understanding of a purpose: it provides a home
the town’s history and growth for exotic animals that have
head for Plaza de San Antonio been impounded by customs
Abad and the excellent Centro or abandoned or mistreated by
de Interpretación del Casco owners. The park was opened
Historico (Mon–Fri 9am–3pm, in 1988 as a private venture by
Sat & Sun 9am–2pm, closes the Balser family and receives
one hour earlier in summer; no government subsidy for
free), where an absorbing its work. Some of the animals
little exhibition traces the brought here have been badly
development of Aguïmes mistreated and it takes time for
over the last thousand years, the park staff to nurse them
explaining the building styles, back to health; others, including
furnishings and materials of the the Bengal tigers, have been
area, such as the tejas de muslo bred at Cocodrilo Park itself.
– red clay roof tiles formed by The quickest approach by car is
the tiler using his own thigh not from Aguïmes itself but on
(muslo) as a mould. Aguïmes’ the direct GC-104 road from
cultural heritage isn’t limited Cruce de Arinaga.
to its old buildings; it’s also a
traditional centre of Canario Playa de Vargas
lucha wrestling, and has one of Reached via a long side road
the liveliest carnival traditions exiting the GC-191 at Montaña
on the island (see p.177). los Vélez between Cruce de
Arinaga and Carrizal, the Playa
Cocodrilo Park de Vargas is a long, stoney beach
Los Corralillos km 5.5, Aguïmes t 928 that offers some of the best
784 725; bus Tues, Thurs & Sun 10am windsurfing conditions on the
Contents Places
The east coast P L A C ES 92
ARINAGA
island. There are no real facilities Playa del Cabrón

– except plenty of parking Immediately north of Arinaga,
spaces – and windsurfers should reached via a rutted track
bring their own boards if between the volcanic cone of
they want to enjoy the windy Montaña de Arinaga and the
conditions and rough surf. lighthouse at Punta de Arinaga,
the sandy little cove of the
Arinaga Playa del Cabrón comes as an
The pleasant little coastal town unexpected pleasure. It has no
of Arinaga is a popular weekend facilities as such but does possess
destination for locals and a very a low-key charm, enhanced by
pleasant spot for a lazy dip and a the surrounding cliffs eroded
long seafood lunch. It’s a place of into weird shapes, the few
no real architectural distinction, whitewashed houses and a view
but it does have a smart and that extends to the islet of El
attractive seafront promenade and Roque offshore. The real draw,
an inviting cluster of restaurants however, is the Marine Reserve
close to the jetty, and the rock of Arinaga which offers some of
and dark sand beach has some the island’s best diving – it’s here
naturally sheltered sections that that many of the commercial
are perfect for swimming in diving operators (see p.175) will
the clear water. There are still- bring you. There’s a spectacular
working salt pans – remnants array of marine life plus an
of a traditional island industry – underwater volcanic landscape
immediately to the south of the of arches, swim-throughs, caves
town, and some preserved lime and overhangs.
kilns on the seafront at Risco
Verde on the northern outskirts.
Contents Places
93
Pozo Izquierdo Juan Grande
Bus #1 from Puerto de Mogán and Bus #1 from Puerto de Mogán and
Puerto Rico or #5 from Maspalomas Puerto Rico and #5 from Maspalomas
and Playa del Inglés then (infrequent) and Playa del Inglés. The eye-
#17 from El Doctoral. The futuristic catching whitewashed chapel
wind turbines that surround and house complex of the
the small coastal village of Pozo family of the Conde de la Vega
Izquierdo hint at the reason Grande – important landowners
for the area’s fame, for this in this part of the island – is
section of the east coast is the an arresting sight at the side of

best location for windsurfing the GC-500 road in the hamlet
in the whole of Gran Canaria. of Juan Grande. The colonial
Excellent conditions prevail buildings are noteworthy for
between March and September their size and beauty in a part
(July and August are the very of the island that in post-
best months) and a windsurfing conquest times was thinly
school (Centro Internacional settled and largely devoid of
de Windsurfing t 928 121 major architectural landmarks.
400, w www.pozo-ciw.com), The chapel of Nuestra
separated by a stretch of Señora de Guadalupe here
modern promenade from the has beautiful engravings and
village, offers courses from an image of the Virgin of
beginner to advanced level Guadalupe that was brought
– the exact location for your from Mexico in the sixteenth
practice depends on your ability. century – unfortunately the
Pozo Izquierdo itself is not an chapel is usually locked due to
especially interesting village ongoing refurbishment work.
architecturally, though the The chapel is set back from the
promenade is attractively laid road on a simple plaza, while
out with windsurfing motifs set the wide, low house sits behind
into the paving, and the small, a rough whitewashed wall with
dark sand beach, protected from a crucifix above the gate.
the rough sea by a breakwater,
is appealing enough. The flat Castillo del Romeral
country behind the village is A traditional centre of the
given over to the cultivation of island’s salt industry, the village
bananas and tomatoes in vast, of Castillo del Romeral is best
makeshift plastic greenhouses. known today for its seafront
W I N D S U R F E R S TAT U E
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94
fishermen’s cooperative Villa de Aguïmes
restaurant, right next to the jetty C/Sol 3, Aguïmes t 928 785 003,
where the boats pull up. The w www.hecansa.com. Located in
village has a lovely sandy beach, the former town hall, a 200-
which is backed by date palms year old house with galleried
and a long row of single-storey balconies and whitewashed
whitewashed houses but, like walls, the atmospheric Villa
many spots on the east coast, it’s de Aguïmes has just six rooms,
still relatively undisturbed by the furnished with a mix of antiques
tourist industry, and there are and traditional wooden furniture
few facilities. The village takes produced by the students of the

its name from the fortress which local carpentry school. There’s
once stood here to protect the no restaurant: guests take their
saltpans. meals at the Casa de los Camellos,
the Villa de Aguïmes’ sister hotel.
The rooms, which are all en-
Shops suite, represent very good value
for money. e63.
Centro Comercial Atlántico
Avda del Atlántico 359, Vecindario;
Global bus #66 or 69 from Las Palmas or Hostel
Maspalomas. The most important
retail centre in the south of the Centro Internacional de
island, the slick, modern CC Windsurfing
Atlántico contains a Carrefour Pozo Izquierdo t 928 121 400,
hypermarket plus many well- w www.pozo-ciw.com. Clean,
known Spanish and international bright modern accommodation
fashion names including Zara, in eight-bed dorms at the
Cortefiel and Mango. windsurfing centre in Pozo
Izquierdo comes complete
with direct sea views, a gym
Hotels and outdoor pool, and Internet
facilities. There’s a restaurant and
Casa de los Camellos bar too. e20 per person.
C/Progreso 12, Aguïmes t928 785 003,
wwww.hecansa.com. The startling
bronze of a recumbent camel Cafés,
outside means there’s no missing
this former inn and camel restaurants and
stable in the heart of Aguïmes.
Now a charming small hotel bars
where the staff are the students
and tutors of the Hecansa Cofradía de Pescadores
hotel school, guest rooms are Castillo del Romeral
grouped around a patio with Avda de la Playa, Castillo del Romeral
lush subtropical planting; those t 928 728 199. Mon–Sat until 11pm,
on the upper levels are reached Sun until 6pm. Cheerful (and
by outside stairs and traditional popular) fish restaurant run
wooden galleries. All rooms are by the village fishermen’s co-
comfortably and traditionally operative, where if you grab
furnished and are en suite. a seat outside you can see the
There’s a pleasant restaurant too, boats on the beach in front of
El Oroval. e70. you that caught the fish on your
Contents Places
95
plate. It’s extremely busy – be grilled, or a more elaborate dish
prepared to queue – but staff are such as ropa vieja with octopus,
efficient and friendly and it’s an beans and potatoes. Mains start
experience worth waiting for. at e7.
El Alpendre El Rincón de Arinaga

C/Joaquin Artiles, Aguïmes t 928 124 C/Alcalá Galiano 2, Arinaga t 928 188
400. Daily except Wed noon–midnight. 956. Daily except Wed 11am–midnight.
Informal, lively bar/restaurant in Piquillo peppers stuffed with
a huddle of traditional buildings cod or queso frito (fried cheese)

on the edge of Aguïmes. are among the specialities at
Mains cost around e9 and the this popular seafront restaurant
emphasis is on grilled meats, opposite the muelle in Arinaga,
though with papas arrugadas, and the fresh swordfish is a good
pimientos de padrón and tortilla bet too. Prices hover around
española on the menu there’s the e10 mark and portions are
something for veggies too. generous.
There are a few Canary Island
bottles on the wine list, and El Viento
a wide terrace and lawn with Avda Punta Tenefe 2, Pozo Izquierdo
children’s swings to keep any t 928 121 052. Daily 11am–midnight.
kids entertained while you sup. Big, slick bar-restaurant with an
enviable, sunny position right on
El Oroval the seafront at Pozo Izquierdo,
Hotel Rural Casa de los Camellos, C/ close to the Windsurfing Centre.
Progreso 12, Aguïmes t 928 785 003. There are reasonably priced
Tues–Sun 8.30–10.30am, 1–4pm & pizzas – from e7 – and pasta
8–10pm. Charming, high-roofed selections including a few
traditional dining room in the unusual sauces, such as rocket
hotel school in the old town with taleggio cheese. The menu
in Aguïmes. A meal here might also offers focaccia sandwiches,
start with delicious almogrote – a steaks and fish, and there’s no
paste of peppers, cheese, tomato shortage of sea views to enjoy
and garlic – before progressing from the big windows while
to superb fresh fish simply you eat. There’s also a pool table.
COFRADÍA DE PESCADORES
Contents Places
The east coast P L A C ES 96
TA G O R O R
Tagoror reasonably priced. If you prefer

Montaña las Tierras, Barranco de sun to subterranean gloom, the
Guayadeque t 928 172 013. Daily views from the sunny outside
10am–midnight. High in the terrace are particularly lovely in
Barranco de Guayadeque, February when the valley is lush
this celebrated cave restaurant and green and there’s blossom
is hollowed deep into the everywhere, though note it can
mountainside and attracts get chilly up here. At weekends
hordes of visitors as much they dish up more elaborate
for its novelty value as for traditional favourites including
the genuine Canario food, ropa vieja and sancocho for around
which is extremely good and e6.
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97
The Cumbre
Unspoiled, thinly populated and majestic, Gran
Canaria’s mountainous interior – known as the Cumbre
or summit – is one of the delights of a visit to the island.
The rugged barrancos, vast volcanic calderas, peaceful
pine forests and cool mountain reservoirs here make
the area a little paradise, criss-crossed by hiking trails
P L A C ES The Cumbre
and dotted with picnic spots, and particularly lovely in
early spring when almond blossom brings the hillsides
to life. It was the pristine ecosystems of these high
mountains – rising to just under 2000m at Pozo de las
Nieves, the highest point on the island – that were the
main reason behind UNESCO’s declaring Gran Canaria
a World Biosphere Reserve in 2005. Scenery aside, the
towns and villages of the interior may be small and
sleepy, but are worth visiting for a taste of Canarian
life almost unaltered by tourism. A marked trail, the
Ruta Centro de las Cumbres, links some of the most
spectacular landscape features, while watching over
everything is the great basalt sentinel of Roque Nublo
(“cloud rock”), the widely recognized symbol of this
stunning region. Rugged it may be, but the Cumbre
couldn’t be easier to access, at least if you have your
own transport: roads are mostly well surfaced – if
twisting – and rarely busy.
Arteara of Fataga. However, it’s for a

Set in a luxuriant date palm taste of pre-Hispanic civilization
grove, Arteara is little more than that Arteara is most memorable
a hamlet on the dramatic Playa and for tangible evidence of
del Inglés-San Bartolomé road, this past, follow the single-track
but its dramatic setting between road that leads south through
the rugged walls of a barranco the village to the atmospheric
is a first taste of the scenic Parque Arqueológico de
grandeur of the island’s interior. Arteara (open access) on the
Many visitors come here for site of a Canario necropolis.
the camel safaris, offered by What at first appears to be just
either Manolo’s Camel Safari a field of rubble soon becomes
(Barranco de Arteara 5–7 quite obviously an elaborate
t 928 798 686; e9 for 20min) archeological site as you follow
at the entrance to the village, the well-marked, if at times
or Camel Safari Park La rough, path through the remains.
Baranda (C/La Baranda, Ruta The tombs were built from the
de Fataga t 928 798 680; e15 debris of a natural rockslide
for 30min, e22 for 1hr), a little – which is why they appear
north of Arteara in the direction to grow out of the ground
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98
GC-220
THE CUMBRE
ba
Tamadaba GC-70
da
(1444m)
ma
Ta
de
ar
Pi n
PARQUE NATURAL GC-216
DE TAMADABA
GC-21
Montañon
Negro
(1663m)
Artenara GC-210
The Cumbre P L A C ES
eg A
V
a Acusa
de Cruz de Tejeda
Acusa
Embalse de
El Paradillo Tejeda
Roque
Bentayga
(1412m)
Embalse de
El Siberio Roque
Nublo
GC-606 (1813m)
GC-60
Ayacata
1
GC-605
Embalse de la
Cueva de GC-604
las Niñas
GC-200
Embalse
de Chira
Las Casas
de Veneguera
Embalse
de Soria
Mogán
PARQUE NATURAL
GC-200
DE PILANCONES
Cercados de Espinos
GC-505
Palmitos Park
GC-604
0 2 km
GC-503
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99
Teror
Valleseco Monte Lentiscal
GC-212
GC-151
GC-21
Santa
GC-400
Brigida
GC-150
GC-42
La Lechuza
San Mateo
GC-15 GC-810
Las Lagunetas GC-41

GC-41
Valsequillo
Tenteniguada
GC-130
GC-130
Pico de
las Nieves
(1949m)
GC-120
GC-654
Risco Blanco 2
GC-60
GC-103
San Bartolomé
de Tirajana B
GC-65 Santa Lucia
Temisas
GC-551
Fataga
La Sorrueda
Fortaleza
Grande
GC-105
GC-65
Arteara
Parque Arqueológico
de Arteara ACCOMMODATION
El Refugio A
Las Tirajanas B
GC-60
RESTAURANTS
La Candelilla 1
Centenario A
Santiago El Grande B
Tagoror 2
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100
Visiting the Cumbre
Global bus #18 (w www.globalsu.net) is the most useful service for accessing the
area by public transport, connecting the Faro de Maspalomas with San Bartolomé
de Tirajana around six times daily, continuing on to Tejeda around four times a
day. Route #34 links El Doctoral and Aguïmes with Temisas, Santa Lucía and San
Bartolomé about eight times daily, less often at weekends. Bus #220 leaves Teror
for Artenara on the hour during the day. With your own transport a 4WD vehicle is
best for exploring off the beaten track. From the north, the GC-100 runs from Las
Palmas as far as Monte Lentiscal, where the route passes through Santa Brigida
and Vega de San Mateo, from which the GC-15 continues to Cruz de Tejeda. From
the east the fastest access is via the Telde-Valsequillo road, the GC-41. From the
south the GC-60 Playa del Inglés-Fataga road is direct if occasionally narrow and
the GC-505 from El Pajar near Arguineguín is good for much of its length, deterio-
rating only beyond the turnoff for Soria. Only from the west is access a problem,
though a well-surfaced but twisting single track road runs from San Nicolás de
Tolentino to Vega de Acusa and Artenara, popular for its spectacular scenery but
hard work for the driver. Alternatively, in the northwest the GC-220 ascends from
the GC-2 motorway towards Artenara and Cruz de Tejeda through lovely pastoral
scenery. This area is also hugely popular with both bikers and cyclists – the
roads are well surfaced and relatively quiet, though if you’re intending to cycle
here you’ll need to be fit and prepared for the combination of strong sun, summer
heat, high altitude and steep inclines. Tourist information offices can be found in
most of the larger villages. Artenara’s is in the Centro de Recuperación de Artesanía
(Mon–Fri 9.15am–3pm, Sat 10.15am–2.30pm; t 928 666 102), a little way down
from the main square in the direction of Tamadaba. Tejeda’s is in the Abraham
Cárdenes sculpture museum on C/Leocadio Cabrera (Tues–Fri 11am–3.30pm, Sat
11.30am–2.30pm, Sun 11.20am–4pm; t 928 666 189, w www.tejeda.es). Santa
Lucía’s office is in the busy commercial district of Vecindario, just off the GC-1
coast road (Plaza de la Era, Avda de Canarias, Vecindario t 928 125 260; Mon–Fri
8.30am–1.30pm & 4–6pm). San Bartolomé de Tirajana is part of the Maspalomas
and Playa del Inglés municipality, and you should therefore enquire at one of the
tourist offices on the coast. Tejeda’s petrol station – it stands at the entrance to the
village on the main road and is the only one for miles – is closed on Sundays.
– with the central nucleus of destroyed and a black wreath

the site including a number placed atop it. A few abandoned
of plundered tumuli, of which examples can be seen on the
the most important is the way out of the complex.
Sepultura del Rey or King’s
Tomb. The sun’s first rays fall Fataga
directly on this tomb once a The approaches to Fataga are
year on a certain day, while at heralded by orange groves and
the time of the autumn equinox date palms, the first signs that
in September there’s another you’re leaving the arid coast
astronomical phenomenon behind. It’s a handy pit stop
known as the “double sun” on the route into the centre
when the sun appears to rise of the island, with a petrol
twice over the Amurga hills station and a couple of bars and
to the east of the site. Villagers restaurants on the main road
once kept beehives in the through the village. There’s
necropolis, and on the death of also a bodega here, the Bodega
the owner the hive would be Tabaibilla (Carreterra Fataga-
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101
FATA G A
Maspalomas km 1.2 t 928 763 views of the surrounding

906; Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun landscape. There are a couple
9am–noon), reflecting the fact of atmospheric old lanes, some
that Fataga is one of the more bars and a bodega, but the main
far-flung outposts of the island’s focus is the simple church of
wine industry and part of the San Bartolomé de Tirajana,
denominación de origen Gran consecrated in 1922 but with an
Canaria, producing good quality eclectic collection of religious
reds and whites using unusual artefacts including a figure of
grape varieties. Wine aside, the St Bartholomew acquired in
chief attraction is the village the eighteenth century and a
itself, a photogenic huddle of rather creepy representation of
red-tiled roofs and whitewashed Christ in a glass coffin. A new
walls, very simple but fitting Centro Rural is being carved
comfortably into the landscape. out of an old house opposite
It comes alive for the annual the church, comprising a hotel,
Fiesta del Albaricoque (apricot gofio mill, bodega and Canarian
festival) in the last week of April
and first week of May.
San Bartolomé de Tirajana

Beyond Fataga, the road climbs
out of the narrow barranco and
enters the vast circular Caldera
de Tirajana, a fertile agricultural
oasis rimmed by mountains,
with the island’s highest peaks
closing off the views to the
north. It’s in this area that
the guindilla and mejunje fruit
liqueurs that you may have
tried in the island’s restaurants
are made, from cherries and
oranges respectively and rum.
San Bartolomé de Tirajana
itself is a quiet town, tumbling
over a hillside with superb SAN BARTOLOMÉ DE TIRAJANA
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102
restaurant. High above the Barranco de Tirajana, where a
town at the entrance to the bridge crosses the narrow stream
Hotel Las Tirajanas, a mirador bed before reaching Santa Lucía,
offers excellent views towards neater and more self-consciously
the neighbouring town of pretty than San Bartolomé. It’s
Santa Lucía and the geological also a more established stop on
oddity of the Risco Blanco the tourist circuit, not so much
(“white cliff ”). A little way to for its rather showy white-
the south of the hotel, a hiking domed church, built in 1905, as
trail leads southwest out of town for the Museo Castillo de la
past the mesa-like outcrop of Fortaleza (daily 9am–5pm; e2)

the Morros de las Vacas into a tacky-looking but fascinating
the Pinar de Pilancones, a small museum on the road
lush pine forest that forms part south of the village. The eclectic
of the core of the UNESCO collection on the ground
biosphere reserve. From here, floor has everything from pre-
keen walkers can continue Hispanic artefacts and specimens
across the mountains to Palmitos of indigenous butterflies and
Park, a distance of some 8km or marine life to a rather glum
so – wear proper walking boots military room watched over by
and a hat and carry water with a faded portrait of Franco. Far
you. more appealing is the upstairs
art gallery, with a small but
Risco Blanco diverse collection of abstract and
On the north side of Santa representational art, including
Lucía, at Rosiana, the minor one by the Canarian-based
GC-654 road signposted Taidia Catalan painter Miró Mainou.
leads up through a lovely Santa Lucía’s narrow, winding
pastoral landscape and sleepy lanes have a quiet charm,
rural communities towards particularly those behind the
Risco Blanco, a cone-shaped new ayuntamiento.
chunk of mountainside that
from a distance looks blindingly Embalse de La Sorrueda
white, though its whiteness Just south of Santa Lucía, the
softens to golden yellow as GC-651 – a side road off the
you approach it. The sheer wall GC-65 – brings you to the
of Pozo de las Nieves – the Embalse de La Sorrueda, one of
highest point on the island the island’s most photographed
– rears up in front of you as you reservoirs. The lush palms at
approach Risco Blanco. This is a the side of the lake, the steep
rewarding detour into a largely shoreline and the rocky island in
undiscovered corner of rural the middle create a picturesque
Gran Canaria, but note that ensemble and for the best
the road is narrow and at times view head to the little mirador,
terrifyingly steep. It emerges reached down a short but
onto the GC-60 just above bumpy track.
San Bartolomé de Tirajana.
The route is also popular with The Fortaleza de Ansite
cyclists. The GC-651 road continues
past the Embalse de La Sorrueda
Santa Lucía to the daunting citadel of
From San Bartolomé de Tirajana the Fortaleza de Ansite (open
a road spirals down to the access), a stern rock outcrop
Contents Places
103
that was the last redoubt of along an old camino real to the
the pre-Hispanic Canarios. In forests and picnic sites of Llanos
1480, with the island almost del Garañon; south beyond San
entirely in Spanish hands, the Bartolomé de Tirajana to the
Canarios retreated here only to Degollada de la Manzanilla;
be defeated four years later, on and west along a ridge to the
April 29, 1484; they leapt to Embalse de Chira. This reservoir
their deaths from the fortress can also be reached by car by
rather than be captured. From heading a little north of Cruz
the rough parking space at the Grande to where a side road
fortress a path leads along the winds the 8km down to the
steep and crumbling – but safe lake, descending through sparse
– eastern flank of the hill, at the pine forest and through the
far end of which a cave burrows scattered settlement of Cercados
clear through the mountain. de Araña before reaching the
It may look interesting but lake and, finally, the dam. The
with the interior littered with reservoir is big and offers the
ominously fresh-looking rock unusual opportunity to see
falls, it’s best viewed from Roque Nublo and Pozo de las
outside. To appreciate the Nieves across a wide expanse
remarkably fort-like qualities of of green water – walk part
the hill, retrace your steps to the way across the dam for the
GC-65 main road and continue best views – plus places to
in the direction of Vecindario. picnic at the reservoir’s edge.
Stopping on this narrow and From the side of the main road
busy road is not always easy but in Cercados de Araña a path
the views are worth it if you continues to the larger reservoir
can. of Soria.
Temisas
Temisas, a wonderfully unspoiled
village on the GC-550, sits
in a wild and mountainous
landscape, backed by cliff-like
slopes and with the distinctive
Roque Aguayro closing off
the view to the sea. The hills
above Temisas are full of pre-
Hispanic caves and the village
is the centre of the island’s olive
production, but there’s very little
to do here, other than enjoy the
serenity. Still, if you want to see
a Canarian village untouched by
mass tourism, this is it.
Cruz Grande and the Embalse

de Chira
At Cruz Grande, high above
San Bartolomé de Tirajana,
several well-marked and well-
made paths fan out to explore
the forested landscape: north TEMISAS
Contents Places
The Cumbre P L A C ES 104
ROQUE NUBLO
Ayacata and Roque Nublo stoney tableland. Roque Nublo

The village of Ayacata clings is at the far end of this plateau.
to a rock wall, watched over All around are stunning views of
by ominous massifs. It’s a the island’s interior: to the north
surprisingly sheltered spot given keep an eye out in particular
the drama of its setting, and for clouds – formed by the
after the hard driving, cycling trade winds hitting the island’s
or walking involved in getting uplands – streaming down over
here, it’s a great place to break the side of the Caldera de Tejeda
for lunch, though such is the like a snowy tablecloth. The
popularity of the restaurants rock itself was formed during
you may have trouble parking. the most recent major period
West of the village, a minor of volcanic activity in this part
road descends to the reservoir of the island over three million
of Cueva de las Niñas, with years ago, and however slender
a lovely setting amid the pine it may seem from afar, it’s pretty
forests of Pajonales, but the impressive up close. To descend,
main reason for stopping at you have to retrace your steps
Ayacata is to make the ascent to towards La Goleta. If you
Roque Nublo. This 64-metre, want to explore this beautiful
basalt monolith is visible from landscape at more length, a
many points across the island’s level path encircles the rock and
interior – its tip is 1813m above another descends through cool
sea level – and can even be seen pine forest to the village of La
from as far away as the dunes Culata. It’s about a 35-minute
of Maspalomas. The path up walk up to Roque Nublo; the
to the rock is, like many in the walk down rather less.
mountains, based on a restored
camino real – one of the ancient Roque Bentayga
mountain highways of the island From the Ayacata-Tejeda road
– and is relatively easy, starting a tortuous but fabulously
from La Goleta car park at La scenic route with little in the
Goleta, just above Ayacata. The way of crash barriers spirals up
route follows a ridge at first to Roque Bentayga, another
before a short but steep section imposing volcanic rock soaring
brings you up onto a wide, to 1412m above sea level in
Contents Places
105
the centre of the Cuenca de artificial cave complex built by
Tejeda, and centrepiece of the the Canarios in pre-conquest
Bentayga Archeology Park. times includes grain silos and
The road stops at a car park the Cueva del Guayre, one of
just short of the rock, from the largest artificial caves on the
where it’s easy to recognize the island (same number as Bentayga
volcanic origins of many of for information on visiting).
the surrounding features. The Bizarrely, a few inhabited houses
Centro de Interpretación huddle at the foot of the rock
here (daily 10am–6pm; free) has on this spectacular, but hardly
displays on the geological story cosy, ridge.
behind this landscape as well as
on the cultural significance of Tejeda
the area and on episodes from Pin-neat, basking in sunshine
the Spanish conquest of the and brilliantly white against the
Canaries, though the labelling green landscape, the large village
is in Spanish only.The terrain of Tejeda adds an improbably
around Bentayga, like that domestic scale to the Cumbre’s
around Roque Nublo belongs grandiose landscape, sitting
to a phase of volcanic activity 1000m above sea level below
over three million years ago. the lip of the Caldera de Tejeda.
Roque Bentayga was sacred In the spring the area is a mass
to the Canarios and is the site of flowering almond trees and in
of an almogarén (see p.186) early February Tejeda celebrates
like the one at Cuatro Puertas. the fiesta of the Almendro
The south side of the rock is en Flor (Almond Festival; see
riddled with cave dwellings, p.177). The village is known
access to which – and to the for its almond biscuits and for
rock in general – is restricted; its bienmesabe, the almond and
call t 928 381 368 (no English honey confection found on
spoken; guided visits only) dessert menus throughout the
for information on visits. A island. You can buy both from
little over 1km west of Roque the Dulcería Nublo on the main
Bentayga along a hair-raisingly street. Tejeda is remote from the
narrow road (signposted La main population centres of the
Solana) is El Roque de island but it’s not uncultured:
Cuevas del Rey, where an the Museo de Esculturas
R O Q U E B E N TAY G A
Contents Places
The Cumbre P L A C ES 106
TEJEDA
de Abraham Cárdenes (C/ local delicacies to the coach

Leocadio Cabrera t 928 666 parties that pause for lunch in
189; Tues–Fri 11am–3.30pm, one of the busy restaurants. This
Sat 11.30am–2.30pm, Sun is also the site of the island’s
11.20am–4pm, closed first two parador, closed for many years
weeks in Aug; free) contains but scheduled to re-open as
works by the Tejeda-born a luxury hotel at the end of
sculptor Abraham Cárdenes and 2006 (w www.parador.es). A few
also attracts touring exhibitions. steps to the south of the tourist
The church of Nuestra Señora hubbub and the parador is one
del Socorro nearby is an odd of the more extraordinary of
structure with almost pagoda- the island’s views, over Tejeda to
like tiled roofs; it was built to Roque Bentayga, its outline the
replace a predecessor destroyed largest of a series of blue shapes
by fire in 1920. shimmering in the haze. To the
east, along the Ruta Centro
Cruz de Tejeda and Pozo de de las Cumbres, a mirador
las Nieves shares the view, and also contains
A scant couple of kilometres to a visitor centre, the Centro
the northeast of Tejeda but many de Interpretación Degollada
hundreds of metres higher, the Becerra, closed for rebuilding as
crossroads of Cruz de Tejeda is this book went to press. About
where the principal roads of the 4km beyond the mirador a side
interior cross. It also marks the turning leads to a car park at
point where the trade winds Pozo de Las Nieves, the “snow
hit the top of the island, and well” where snow was once
so marks a noticeable change collected for use at the Hospital
in climate zones from sunny de St Martín in Las Palmas or
Tejeda to the cooler, cloudier for the manufacture of ice cream.
and wetter conditions that prevail The peak just above the car park
around Vega de San Mateo. is the highest point on the island
During the day the roadside at 1949m; when it does snow
here is lined with market stalls up here – as it did in the winter
selling handicrafts, rum and of 2004–5 – it makes the TV
Contents Places
107
news and locals jump into their into the upper reaches of the
cars to see the phenomenon for Barranco de Guayadeque.
themselves. What most visitors
come to Pozo de las Nieves to Montañon Negro and the
see, however, is the extraordinary Caldera Pinos de Gáldar
view across the centre of the Northwest from Cruz de Tejeda
island to Roque Nublo and, on the high GC-150 road follows
the horizon, the peak of Mount the rim of Tejeda’s caldera,
Teide on Tenerife. It’s particularly passing recently fire-damaged
beautiful at sunset when the forest and the suitably menacing
clouds pouring over the lip of (though now dormant) cinder
the Caldera de Tejeda break black cone of Montañon Negro,
like waves against the base of the most recent volcano to
Roque Nublo; note that it can erupt on Gran Canaria, some
get bitterly cold up here after the 3000 years ago. Though the
sun goes down. The road ends cone’s flanks are softened a little
at the car park, so you have to by pine forest, the bare, smooth
return to the main GC-130. black ash still looks remarkably
fresh. The road rejoins the
Caldera de los Marteles GC-21 at the Caldera Pinos
East of Pozo de las Nieves de Gáldar, a dramatic volcanic
the road descends through crater created at the same time
lush pine forests, the roadway as the Montañon Negro. The
often carpeted with rust-red trade winds hit this corner
pine needles, to the Caldera of the island with such force
de los Marteles. This beautiful that it’s sometimes difficult to
volcanic crater is a much gentler stand at the mirador overlooking
landscape feature than most, the crater – it’s perfectly safe,
its eroded sides thick with but can be quite literally
vegetation and its shallow floor breathtaking. If you brave the
given over to agriculture. From winds, the reward is a panoramic
the GC-130 road a footpath view of the north of the island.
leads the 4km or so down
CRUZ DE TEJEDA MARKET
Contents Places
108
feast days and then, on
the last Sunday of August
is returned to her cave; a
firework display completes
the festivities. The chapel is
a few minutes’ walk uphill
from the centre of the
village – it’s well signposted
– but once you get there
it’s frankly rather damp
and claustrophobic inside,

though the lovely views
on the way make the walk
worthwhile. Back in the
village centre, the building
on Avenida Alcalde
Manuel Lujan Sanchez that
houses the tourist office
also houses the Centro
de Recuperación de
ARTENARA Artesanía (Mon–Fri
9.15am–3pm, Sat 10.15am–
Artenara 2.30pm; t 928 666 102; free)
A statue of Christ watches over which extends back into the
Artenara, the highest village on side of the hill, its rooms used
Gran Canaria at 1270m and for temporary exhibitions on
focus of the least-populated subjects of local ethnographic or
municipality on the island, with historic interest and to display
fewer than 2000 inhabitants. locally made pottery.
Always an isolated place, its
isolation increased early in 2005 Pinar de Tamadaba
when landslides triggered by the One of the key constituents of
worst winter storms in thirty the World Biosphere Reserve,
years blocked the road to Tejeda the Pinar de Tamadaba is
– though it had reopened by a high-altitude pine forest
the end of that year. Many of covering the upper slopes of the
the dwellings here, even those 1444-metre peak of Tamadaba.
with conventional housefronts, After the car park at Cortijo de
lie underground, burrowed deep la Tirma – from which some of
into the soft volcanic rock and, the forest’s longer paths fan out
though the centre of the village – the road becomes a one-way,
is dominated by the nineteenth- circular drive, offering access
century church of San Mateo, to various woodland paths and
it’s for just such a subterranean giving stunning views down to
construction, the Ermita de la the coast and across to Tenerife.
Virgen de la Cuevita chapel A signposted path descends from
and the effigy of the Virgin it the roadside to Lugarejos and El
contains, that the village is best Hornillo and from there down
known. Each year in August into the Barranco de Agaete.
the image of the Virgin is Just after the campsite turnoff a
taken in procession from the path climbs up to the Tamadaba
chapel to San Mateo church peak itself. It’s a fairly easy 25-
to celebrate the village’s main minute walk uphill through the
Contents Places
109
forest, the air pure enough to plateau, from where the views
allow great beards of lichen to towards Roque Bentayga are
hang down from the branches. spectacular. On the north side
All the way up there are of the plateau, to the right
tantalizing glimpses of Tenerife. of the church, a stunning but
To get the very best views at narrow and twisting minor
the top you need to scramble road descends past a windmill
the last few metres onto the and a series of reservoirs to San
peak; from here, you can see Nicolás de Tolentino.
Tenerife to the west and Roque
Bentayga and the landscapes of
the island’s interior to the east. Hotels
Vega de Acusa El Refugio
The placid, flat tableland of Cruz de Tejeda t 928 666 513,
Vega de Acusa is perched high w www.hotelelrefugio.com. In a
above the deep barrancos that magnificently scenic setting
run down towards the coast at right on the lip of the Caldera
La Aldea. Reached via a turning de Tejeda at Cruz de Tejeda, this
off the Tamadaba road, it looks small country hotel has just ten
like a location from a spaghetti rooms, a pool and sunny garden
western, its pastoral landscape for sunbathing. Rooms are air-
and solitary whitewashed chapel conditioned, with artisan-made
contrasting with the drama of furniture and en-suite bath, plus
the surrounding mountains, TV and phone. There’s a sauna,
and its flanks dotted with cave a private mirador giving access to
dwellings. The few roads on the one of the finest views on the
plateau are narrow and rough, island, and they have mountain
and if you’ve come by car it’s bikes for guest use. The hotel
best to park by the church and also has a large and popular
explore these tracks on foot restaurant. e64.
– one follows the edge of the
P I N A R D E TA M A D A B A
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110
Las Tirajanas with papas arrugadas and mojo
C/Oficial Mayor José Rubio, San picón, and grilled fish. Service is
Bartolomé de Tirajana t 928 123 friendly, if not particularly swift.
000, w www.hotel-lastirajanas.
com. Strikingly sited on a bluff Restaurante Centenario
overlooking the town of San Hotel Rural El Refugio, Cruz de Tejeda
Bartolomé de Tirajana and t 928 666 513. Daily 10am–8pm.
1000m above sea level, Las The big, busy restaurant at the
Tirajanas is a smart mountain El Refugio is a popular pitstop
resort hotel with relaxed, in Cruz de Tejeda, with its own
spacious public areas including a direct access from the main road
restaurant. Rooms are tastefully separate from the hotel. Dishes
decorated in a modern Canarian include roast lamb marinated in
style, with wooden furniture, dry Malvasia wine with herbs
terracotta tiles and (in the junior and onions, and the three-
suites) four poster beds. All 52 course lunch menu with wine
rooms have a balcony and share or beer for e15 is good value.
the hotel’s panoramic views.
There’s a pool and a spa. e80. Santiago El Grande
Hotel Las Tirajanas, C/Oficial Mayor
José Rubio, San Bartolomé de Tirajana
Cafés and t 928 123 000. Daily 1–4.30pm &
7–10.15pm. Diners at Las Tirajanas
restaurants share the same breathtaking
mountain panoramas as the
La Candelilla hotel’s guests. The cooking here
Carretera de Ayacata t 928 172 281. is broadly Canarian, with queso
Daily 8.30am–7pm. Something of frito (fried cheese) or prawns
a favourite with the bikers who in garlic to start followed by
tour the centre of the island hake in salsa verde, morcilla
at weekends, La Candelilla’s or sirloin steaks. Prices are
shady terrace is in an idyllic reasonable, with main courses
spot just outside the village around e10–15, and the dining
of Ayacata, close to Roque room is tastefully decorated and
Nublo. They serve good, spacious. The hotel also has its
inexpensive Canarian dishes own vineyard.
such as marinated fried rabbit
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111
The Costa Canaria

At the southern tip of Gran Canaria, the wonderfully
spacious golden sands pile up to form the shimmering
dunes of Maspalomas, the most startling landscape in
the south of the island and the centrepiece of the resort
complex known as the Costa Canaria. Forty-five years
ago this was a lonely stretch of coast backed by semi-
P L A C ES The Costa Canaria

arid farmland, neglected for most of its history and once
the haunt of European and North African pirates. But in
1961 Count Alejandro del Castillo, the local landowner,
organized a competition – won by a French company
– to create a new resort. The result was something akin
to a tourist gold rush, as hotels and apartment blocks,
leafy bungalow complexes and stark concrete shopping
centres engulfed the original village of Maspalomas
(whose name means simply “more pigeons”) and sun,
sea, sand and pulsating nightlife have been provided
with ruthless efficiency ever since. Over the years, the
various districts have developed their own character;
San Fernando is where the locals live, San Agustín is
quiet and select, Playa del Inglés is the noisy haven of
clubbers and gay visitors, and Maspalomas is low rise
and laid back, with lush gardens, long avenues of palms
and a golf course. Recent years have seen renewed
development as huge resort hotels and shopping malls
rise along the cliffs of Meloneras to the conurbation’s
west.
Gran Karting Club e15 for 15 minutes, junior circuit e10,
Carretera General del Sur, km 46, infants e7. Speed fiends will love
Tarajalillo t928 157 190, wwww. the main track here – it’s 1650m
grankartingclub.com. Daily: April–Sept long, enabling karts to reach
11am–10pm; Oct–March 10am–9pm. 80kph. There’s a separate, shorter
Visiting the Costa Canaria

Within Playa del Inglés and Maspalomas, buses are chiefly of use for east-west
travel, though many routes run north-south part way along Avenida de Tirajana, the
principal avenue of Playa del Inglés. The urban area is very spread out, particularly
in low-rise Maspalomas, so local buses are useful if you’re travelling from one
end of the conurbation to the other, but most visitors make use of the cheap taxis
(t 928 766 767 or t 928 142 634). The island government maintains a tourist
information office (Mon–Fri 9am–9pm, Sat 9am–noon; w www.grancanaria.com)
on Avenida de España at the entrance to the Yumbo Centre; the town council runs
an office at the Mirador Campo de Golf in Maspalomas (Mon–Fri 9am–3.30pm) and
another at the Centro Anexo II on the beach in Playa del Inglés (Mon–Fri 9am–9pm,
Sat 9am–1pm).
Contents Places
112 A & Aqualand Aqua Sur
MASPALOMAS
GC-1
Puerto Rico & Puerto de Mogán
Mercado
The Costa Canaria P L A C ES
Municipal 2
SONNENLAND
Holiday
GC-1
World
4 Ocean
Atlantic
Park
9 CC Faro 2
N
AN
M I
ER
CK
Arguineguin
E
RN
GC-500 ER ADO
ROP
TOU
IDA
EN
AV
CC Playa Meloneras M A S P A L O M A S
MELONERAS
MA
RC
AN
TÁ
BR
ICO
N CC Varadero
R
Bus Station
15
Faro de Maspalomas
Pla
ya
de
Ma
spa
0 500 m lom
as
Real Aeroclub de Gran

course for 12–16 year olds and Canaria
a miniature version for younger Carretera General del Sur, km 46.5,
children. Wear flat shoes and Tarajalillo t928 762 447. This small
nothing too loose. aerodrome, wedged between the
sea and the coast road, is home
Contents Places
113
Mundo Aborigen & Fataga
CLUBS RESTAURANTS
A
G
Bachira 11 Al Andalus 3
ATA
Chic/Cream 7 La Casa Vieja 1
EF
LD
JPM 4 Las Cumbres
INA
Sueño Latino 4 Meson del Cordero 14
C AM I NO VE C
La Toja 12
BARS Meson Las Tapas 9
Pacha 6 Mundo 13
1 Restaurante Chino
SHOPS Hong Kong 8
Fedac a Rias Bajas 10
LO Rimini 5
STIL
L CA
O DE CAFÉS
NDR

AL EJA 2
N ID A
Churrería Mercado
AV E
SAN FERNANDO
LESBIAN & GAY VENUES
Las Palmas
Margo & Roland
Strand-apo-Theke 15
GC-1
C
NA
TIRAJA
GC-500 3
Casa Condal
D
DE GRAN
AVENIDA CAN 5
A DE
ARIA GC-500
F
AVENID
E SAR GE NTOS
G IDAD PROVI A
N SIO IFE ALI
E
ÑA
NA ER E IT
E
AV EN IDA D E
AV
LE AD
TEN
, San Agustín & Sioux City

S PA
AL FÉ D
DE 6 NI
S
RE
H CES AVE
EE
CC Yumbo 8
A V E NI D A 7
D
CC Plaza de Maspalomas
IDA
10
a CC Kasbah
EN
R OV
P
AV EN 11
AV
ID A D I
E
SI O
12 J ESTAD NAL
OS
ES
PLAYA DEL INGLÉS UN

ID
IA
O K
AN
S
LEM
A
AVENIDA DE
A
DE TIR AJ AN
M
E
AD
NID
13
AVE
14
CC Cita
les
N
ACCOMMODATION
Bungalows Cordial
GRAN CA N
Ing
AVE NID A
Green Golf L
O Catarina O
del
Club Tucanes J
RIA A
Eugenia Victoria D
ya
Q Gran Hotel Costa

Meloneras S
Pla
Grand Hotel Residencia R

Hostal R San Fernando C
IFA Continental F
IFA Dunamar K
Liberty Apartments G
DUNAS DE Neptuno H
Park & Sporthotel
MASPALOMAS Los Palmitos A
Pasión Tropical E
Respect Los Almendros N
Riu Palace Maspalomas Q
Sun’s Gardens B
Tenesor Apartments M
Villa del Conde P
Villas Blancas I
to a couple of outfits offering tandem and night-time jumps

parachute jumps over the and courses; rival Jump for Life
dunes of Maspalomas. Skydive (t 928 157 000, w www.jump-
Gran Canaria (t 928 157 325, for-life.com; e199 per tandem
w www.skydivegrancanaria.es; jump) is a similar operation;
tandem jump from e155) offers they can both arrange to collect
Contents Places
114
you from your accommodation #29 from Maspalomas and Playa del
in a minibus. The airstrip is Inglés. 10am–5pm. e14, children
also the departure point for e7. A successful recreation of a
helicopter sightseeing tours of Wild West frontier town, Sioux
the island (w www.bluecanarias. City was originally built in 1975
com; from e50 for a 10-minute as a set for the Lee Van Cleef
flight). spaghetti western Take a Hard
Ride. Today it’s a big hit with
Bahía Feliz dads and children in particular,
Bahía Feliz has some of and the location, in a deep,
the best-designed holiday rugged barranco, is suitably wild

apartments on the island and and western-looking. Wandering
a purpose-built village plaza through the town you’ll
with an adequate selection encounter actors in costume
of restaurants and bars. It is, playing out their roles – the
however, extremely quiet and sheriff cleaning his gun, or a
relatively remote from its more cowboy training his horse – plus
animated neighbours and there’s a saloon, church and
thus appeals to a less raucous jail to have a look round, and
clientele. you can buy wanted posters or
cowboy gear as souvenirs. To see
Playa del Águila Sioux City at its most animated,
Playa del Águila is smaller and however, catch one of the
even more low-key than Bahía frequent shows, during which
Feliz, and has a pebbly beach you might see stunt riding,
that is not terribly attractive. For saloon girls dancing or Mexican
active visitors, however, there bandits shooting up the town.
is some appeal as the home of
the Dunkerbeck Windsurfing San Agustín
School (t 649 538 333, w www. San Agustín was one of the first
dunkerbeck-windsurfing. and most upmarket resorts to be
com), owned and operated by developed in the south of the
world windsurfing champion island and it retains a somewhat
Björn Dunkerbeck. For more quiet, relaxed atmosphere. The
information, see p.177. two sandy beaches – the broad,
darkish Playa San Agustín itself
Sioux City and the similar Playa de las
Cañon del Águila t928 762 573. Bus Burras to the west – are linked
by an attractive,
traffic-free
clifftop walk;
a few fishing
boats still pull
up on the
Playa de las
Burras and
the apartment
complexes here
are small and
well-
established.
The air of
SIOUX CITY refinement is
Contents Places
115
P L A C ES
The Costa Canaria
SAN AGUSTÍN
most evident in the Casino complex on Avenida Tirajana,

Gran Canaria (Meliá Tamarindos its outlandish curves vaguely
Hotel, C/Las Retamas 3; daily resembling a sports stadium.
8pm–4am; free) where smart And amid all the concrete
dress amd your passport will there is plenty of lush, mature
give you access to American subtropical foliage, so that these
roulette, blackjack, poker and days it’s really only the vibrant
the usual slot machines. but run-down centros comerciales
that offend the eye. The resort
Playa del Inglés is roughly triangular, coming
Big, brash Playa del Inglés is to a point in the south, where
the archetypal Spanish package the busy Avenida de Tirajana
tour resort, a place where terminates just short of a
German oompah bars jostle
British pubs, Chinese restaurants
stand next to Irish bars and
the restaurant of choice is the
ubiquitous steak house. It’s also
unmistakably the liveliest resort
in the south of the island, with
accommodation to suit all tastes
and budgets, excellent nightlife
for heterosexual and gay
visitors alike – centred on the
Kasbah and Yumbo shopping
centres respectively – and
annual Carnival celebrations
second on the island only to
those of Las Palmas. Much of
the accommodation has been
refurbished in recent years,
and some of the unashamedly
modern architecture is
beginning to look fashionable
in a retro way – a good example
is the Sol Barbacán apartment SOL BARBACÁN
Contents Places
116
spectacular mirador overlooking the dunes and adjacent charca
the Maspalomas dunes at the (lagoon) are a protected nature
end of Avenida de Tirajana. reserve, the ideal conditions
A pleasant clifftop walk leads encouraging large numbers of
east from the Riu Palace Hotel migratory birds to rest here on
to the Avenida de Alfereces their seasonal journeys between
Provisionales, which snakes Europe and Africa. To the east,
down an urban barranco to the bare, shifting portion of
provide the easiest access to the the dunes retains a pristine,
vast, sandy beach, too big ever desert-like appearance. Access
to be truly overcrowded. It’s is restricted to either the path

patrolled, well provided with sun that leads from the mirador at
loungers and has snack kiosks the Hotel Riu Palace in Playa
every few hundred metres. The del Inglés (where there’s a small
beach narrows as it reaches information office; Mon–Fri
the headland of Punta de 9.30am–12.30pm & 4.30–7pm),
Maspalomas, where the dunes or from along the shore from
finally reach the sea and mark Playa del Inglés or the Faro de
the transition to neighbouring Maspalomas.
Maspalomas beach. From the heart of the dunes,
the views of the island’s
The dunes of Maspalomas mountainous interior are
Created by a unique superb and the bustle of the
combination of sea and wind surrounding conurbation seems
(and not blown in from Africa very distant, with only the
as previously thought) the dunes Riu Palace and Maspalomas
of Maspalomas are a stunning lighthouse as significant
sight and deservedly on every landmarks. Secluded areas of
visitor’s itinerary. The beauty and the dunes are popular with
richness of the flora and birdlife naturists and are a famous, if
that colonize the western, fairly discreet, gay cruising
stable portion of the dunes ground, so be prepared to see
create an ecosystem unique in the odd bit of naked flesh along
the Canary Islands and mean with the wildlife. You might
that more than 400 hectares of also encounter a camel train
T H E D U N E S O F M A S PA L O M A S
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117

M A S PA L O M A S B E A C H
laden with a cargo of nervous complex and consisting largely

holidaymakers – if you want of bungalows with lush gardens
to join them, head along the and swimming pools though
western shore of the lagoon also holding two major leisure
to Camello Safari Duna Oasis attractions. The first, Holiday
(daily 9am–4.30pm; t 928 760 World (t 928 730 498, w www.
781). holidayworld-maspalomas.
com), is a multi-purpose
Maspalomas entertainment complex with an
Long before the hotels, indoor leisure centre fronting a
shopping centres and nightclubs traditional funfair (Mon–Thurs
there was a single architectural 6–11pm, Fri & Sat 6pm–1am,
landmark in the very south of free entry, buy points for rides
the island – the 51-metre Faro at the entrance) with big wheel,
de Maspalomas lighthouse, roller coaster and carousels.
built in the late nineteenth It also has a bowling alley
century to aid steamships (Sun–Thurs 10am–2am, Fri &
travelling between Africa, Sat 10am–5am), pool tables,
Australia and America. Its bars and restaurants, two discos
solitude disappeared forever and an impressive gym and spa,
with the tourist boom in complete with rooftop pool
the 1960s and 1970s when and lido. A few hundred metres
the dense oasis of date palms to the east of Holiday World is
behind it became the focus for Ocean Atlantic Park (June–
a particularly upmarket strain Sept Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat
of development, and today the & Sun 10am–7pm; Oct–May
numerous five-star hotels here daily 10am–5pm; e19, children
help Maspalomas retain an aura e13; t 928 764 361, w www.
of prestige. To the north and oceanatlanticpark.com), the
east, the golf course and villas most central of Maspalomas’
give way to the low-rise district two water parks. Water slides
of Campo Internacional, and spirals of varying degrees
centred on the Faro 2 shopping of severity are the attraction
Contents Places
118
at this one, though there’s also need. The latest attraction is the
mini golf. For those who prefer fearsome Tornado slide with
seawater to swimming pools, sound and light effects. Given
Maspalomas beach is every the rather steep entry charge
bit as splendid as that at Playa it’s worth making a day of it.
del Inglés, with similar facilities There’s a variety of places to eat,
including a Red Cross post, sun from snacks and ice creams to
loungers to hire and snack bars. burgers and a restaurant, and if
There are specific naturist and the water palls you can always
gay sections, the former well shop for pearls at Perla Canaria
marked and the latter clustered next door.

around snack bar no.7. Be aware
that the sea gets discernibly Banana Park
rougher towards the Punta de Carretera Palmitos Park, km 4 t928
Maspalomas headland. 141 475, wwww.bananapark-
maspalomas.com. Bus #45 or #70
Aqualand Aqua Sur from Maspalomas. Daily 10am–5pm.
Carretera Palmitos Park, km 3 wwww. e7, children free; Banana Park
aqualand.es. Buses #45 or #70 from is a working organic banana
Maspalomas. Daily: April–Oct 10am– and pawpaw plantation and
6pm; Nov–March 10am–5pm. e21, citrus grove where in addition
children 3–12 e15. Billing itself to visiting a traditional fruit
as the largest water park in the plantation visitors can learn
south of the island, Aqualand has about aloe vera, sugar cane,
all the slides – no fewer than 33 strelitzias, mangoes and tomatoes
of them – pools and sunbathing before sampling the fresh juices
terraces you could possibly of the fruits. There’s also a free-
flight canary aviary, a butterfly
house, farm animals including
donkeys and camels, and a
souvenir shop selling traditional
island produce including mojo
sauces, wines and liqueurs. It
may not be as ambitious in
its scope as some of the other
parks, but Banana Park is at least
derived from the traditional
agriculture of the island and that
makes it worth a visit.
Palmitos Park
Barranco de los Palmitos t928 140
276, wwww.palmitospark.es. Buses
#45 or #70 from Maspalomas. Daily
10am–6pm. e17, children e12.
Palmitos Park is an excellent
combination of zoo, aviary
and botanical garden in a
beautiful mountain valley a few
kilometres north of Maspalomas.
It’s known particularly for
its parrots, but there are also
PA L M I T O S PA R K flamingoes, cockatoos, hornbills,
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119
toucans, a children’s farm and isolation west of Meloneras,
some languid caiman crocodiles though development is slowly
from South America. Highlights encroaching. Vehicle access to
include the free-flight aviary, a the marina and its residential
wonderful tropical aquarium, development is tightly
the butterfly and orchid houses controlled, but you can park
and the lovely terraced cactus outside and stroll in for a look if
garden. Regular daily shows you’re curious. Two kilometres
with performing parrots are a to the north of the harbour,
hit with children. the European Space Agency’s

Maspalomas Ground Station
Meloneras (INTA Estacion Espacial de
The low cliffs to the west of Maspalomas) – which played a
the Faro de Maspalomas have key role in tracking the Apollo
witnessed an extraordinary burst launches of the 1970s – stands
of new development in recent on high ground at Montaña
years. Vast four- and five-star Blanca.
resort hotels and wide tracts of
smart suburban housing have San Fernando
spread along a previously barren The lively barrio of San
stretch of coast towards the Fernando lies to the north of
little marina development of Playa del Inglés and Maspalomas
Pasito Blanco. From the Faro, across the GC-500 highway
a popular but still incomplete and contains the remnants
clifftop promenade leads past of the original village of
this parade of hotels and Maspalomas. By far the most
shopping arcades towards the Canarian district in the Costa
rather stoney little beach of Canaria conurbation – it was
Meloneras. In an attempt to largely built in the early 1960s
reduce the coast’s dependency to house farmers dispossessed
on low-priced package by the construction of the
holidays, the Maspalomas resort on their land – it has
Congress Centre, an elegant all the facilities of a real town,
and impressive venue a few including a football stadium,
hundred metres inland from municipal market, town square
the hotel strip, opened in 2000 and lively shopping centre. It’s
but, embarrassingly, was forced also where some of the more
to close during the winter of authentic restaurants of the
2004–5 to rectify a series of conurbation are to be found.
construction and design defects. Along Avenida Marcial Franco
It was scheduled to reopen again are some pre-development
in November 2006, when it will buildings, namely the little
once again provide a venue not chapel of San Fernando el
just for the lucrative conference Chico (key from church of San
and exhibition trade but for Fernando on Avda Tejeda) and
classical and pop concerts the Casa Condal (Mon–Fri
and various events, including 10am–8pm; free), an imposing
Maspalomas’ gay pride. farmhouse that now houses art
exhibitions by local artists as
Pasito Blanco well as a fascinating display on
Bus #32 from Maspalomas. For now, the history of the area, including
the sleepy little yacht harbour startling photos of the coast
of Pasito Blanco sits in quiet before tourism arrived.
Contents Places
The Costa Canaria P L A C ES 120
CASA CONDAL, SAN FERNANDO
Mundo Aborigen exhibits give an informative

Carretera Playa del Inglés-Fataga, introduction to the island’s past.
km 6 t928 172 295. Bus #18 from Topics covered include the
Maspalomas and San Fernando. Daily social hierarchies, belief systems,
9am–6pm. e12, children free. Spreadburial rituals and craft skills of
over a sunny mountainside the first Canarios – generally
above San Fernando, Mundo depicted as tall and fair – who
Aborigen is an admirable came to the island from North
attempt to re-create the lifestyle Africa around 2–3000 years
and landscapes of pre-Hispanic ago. They lacked metal tools
Gran Canaria and its inhabitants. but nevertheless worked wood
The indigenous vegetation, and stone with skill to create
reconstructed round stone their homes. Highlights include
houses and clear labelling of the house of a guanarteme or
nobleman and
the tagoror
or council
chamber, both
of which
are brightly
decorated, in
contrast to the
stark simplicity
of the homes
of the poor.
Mirador de
Fataga
Carretera Playa
del Inglés-Fataga.
The Mirador
de Fataga
is a popular
M I R A D O R D E FATA G A viewing spot
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121
for bus tours and a frequent surroundings of the Maspalomas
stopping off point for super-fit Oasis. The architecture and
cyclists on the twisting, narrow furnishings are traditionally
but well-surfaced road to Fataga. Spanish/Moorish in style, and
The mirador gives splendid there’s a restaurant serving
views down to the coast and international and Canario
into the deep, rocky Barranco cuisine. It shares some facilities
de Fataga, and also marks the with its trendier, larger sister
point at which the road begins hotel, the Palm Beach. e408.
its spectacular journey into the

island’s interior. Gran Hotel Costa Meloneras
Costa Meloneras t928 128 144,
wwww.lopesanhr.com. With
Hotels its grandiose colonial-style
architecture, spacious grounds
Catarina and lofty public spaces, the
Avda Tirajana 1, Playa del Inglés clifftop Costa Meloneras was one
t928 762 812, wwww.lopesanhr. of the first outsized seafront
com. Nicely refurbished 1960s fantasy palaces of the new
hotel on the quieter, southern Meloneras district. It’s a smart
stretch of Avenida de Tirajana. four-star resort hotel, complete
There’s a stark, rather elegant with infinity pool, grotto-like
minimalist foyer, while the spa and a number of bars and
rooms are spacious and tasteful, restaurants, while its 1136
and those on the higher floors rooms are tastefully furnished in
have good views of the dunes modern style with warm colour
and mountains. Facilities include schemes.E190.
a Tahitian-style pool and lido
complex. e130.
Eugenia Victoria
Avda de Gran Canaria 26, Playa
del Inglés t928 762 500, wwww.
bullhotels.com. Vast, comfortable
hotel that pitches itself at a
younger clientele. Public areas
are nothing special, but rooms
are attractive enough, pricing is
fairly keen, there’s a free shuttle
bus to the beach and its sporting
facilities, including tennis and
squash courts, a well-equipped
gym and sauna are popular and
open to non-residents. e80.
Grand Hotel Residencia

Avda del Oasis 32, Maspalomas
t928 723 100, wwww.grand-hotel-
residencia.com. Relatively small,
secluded five-star boutique
hotel, built in the form of
two-storey villas and set in
the luxuriantly subtropical G R A N H O T E L C O S TA M E L O N E R A S
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122
IFA Continental areas has produced an inspired,
Avda de Italia 2, Playa del Inglés t928 funky mix of original 1960s
760 033, wwww.ifacanarias.es. A big details and smart modernity.
concrete hotel with a slightly During Carnival and in summer
institutional feel, the Continental it attracts a younger crowd,
might not win prizes for charm, thanks to its close proximity to
but it’s in a convenient location, the Yumbo Centre. Rooms are
offers very good rooms for the en suite with blue and white
money and has a welcoming ornamental azulejo tiles, TV and
family atmosphere. e78 half minibar; balconies have views of
board. the pool and the less than restful

Yumbo itself. e104.
IFA Dunamar
C/Helsinki 8, Playa del Inglés Park & Sporthotel Los
t928/773 465, wwww.ifacanarias. Palmitos
es. If you’re going to stay at Barranco de los Palmitos 22 t928
the seaside you might as well 142 100, wwww.lospalmitos.
have a sea view, and the staid com. Small hotel in the idyllic
but well-appointed Dunamar – surroundings of the Barranco
which attracts a predominantly de los Palmitos, overlooking
German clientele – fits the Palmitos Park, complete with
bill. Rooms are comfortable pool, tennis courts, pitch and
and spacious, if a little bland in putt, gym and practice nets for
decor, and the terraced outdoor golf. And if that’s not enough to
areas are imaginatively done, but tire you out, there are mountain
note that the streets behind can bikes available and riding stables
be noisy late at night. e194 half nearby. Rooms are modern and
board. tastefully decorated. e204.
Neptuno Riu Palace Maspalomas

Avda Alfereces Provisionales 29, Avda de Tirajana, Playa del Inglés
Playa del Inglés t928 777 492, t928 769 500, wwww.riu.com.
wwww.hotel-neptuno.com. The The gleaming white, vaguely
Neptuno is no beauty, but clever Moorish-style Riu Palace is a
refurbishment of the public Costa Canaria landmark and the
R I U PA L A C E H O T E L
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123
only hotel in Playa del Inglés are actually small, two-storey
to possess an unobscured view houses, including sixteen with
of the sunsets across the dunes two bedrooms that are ideal for
to the Maspalomas lighthouse. families. Extensive, attractive
Most of its colonial-style rooms pool areas, a minimarket on site
have sea views and there’s and regular (if rather cheesy)
a spacious, sunny lido with entertainment add to the appeal
children’s playground and pools. as does its location close to bus
e254. stops and the Faro 2 shopping
complex. You have to register

Villa del Conde online in order to book. E64.
Mar Mediterráneo 7, Maspalomas
t928 563 200, wwww.lopesanhr. Liberty Apartments
com. From the outside, this Avda de Tirajana, 32, Playa del Inglés
new luxury hotel appears like t928 767 354, wwww.grupoliberty.
a traditional Canario village, com. Popular, centrally located
complete with “church” and one-bedroom apartments on the
“plaza”; inside, the spacious northern stretch of Avenida de
lobby incorporates bars, lounges Tirajana, convenient for banks,
and a giant crystal chandelier, restaurants, shops and nightlife,
while the rooms are spacious but a little distant from the
and stylish with hot colours and beach. The apartments sleep up
modern art. Depending on your to three people. If you can, try
taste, it’s either highly kitsch or to get one with a balcony facing
winningly audacious, but either the spacious pool area at the
way, it’s certainly not bland. A back, as the street out front is
thalassotherapy centre is planned one of the busiest in Playa del
and there are various restaurants Inglés. e51.
and shops on site. e250.
Sun’s Gardens
C/Virgo, Campo Internacional,
Pension Maspalomas t928 765 235,
wwww.servatur.com. Situated in
Residencia San Fernando a quiet corner of the Campo
C/La Palma 16, San Fernando t928 Internacional, Sun’s Gardens
763 906. Clean but spartan is the archetypal Maspalomas
hostal, with simply furnished bungalow complex, attractively
twin-bedded rooms and grouped around a pool, with
shared facilities. Nothing fancy, subtropical plants and a basic
but it’s about the cheapest bar/restaurant on site. It’s a
accommodation you’ll get in smaller complex than most and
the south. e18.50. the accommodation is in simply
furnished one-bedroom duplexes
that sleep three (a fourth bed can
Self-catering be provided for E3 per night).
Very good value for money,
Bungalows Cordial Green though note that they only
Golf accept cash payments. e40.
Avda de Tjaereborg, Campo
Internacional, Maspalomas t928 Tenesor Apartments
721 147, wwww.cordialcanarias. Avda de Tirajana 9, Playa del Inglés
com. The “bungalows” in this t928 764 831, eTENESOR_
large Andalucian-style complex 9@hotmail.com Spacious,
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124
Lesbian and gay accommodation
Gay and lesbian visitors attracted to the Costa Canaria by the extensive nightlife
and the easygoing, gay-friendly attitude, have plenty of options for resting their
heads after a heavy night.
Club Tucanes Avda de EE.UU 29, Playa del Inglés t 928 760 558, w www.
clubtucanes.com. Just across the road from the Yumbo Centre, Club Tucanes is a
very pleasant and central complex offering smart accommodation in stylish twins
or double bungalows, each with satellite TV and CD player. The pool is clothing
optional, and there’s a complimentary buffet breakfast. E90.
Pasión Tropical C/Adelfas 6, San Agustín t 928 770 131, w www.pasion-

tropical.com. Close to the beach in San Agustín, the small, intimate Pasión Tropical
was one of the first exclusively gay complexes to break away from the budget
format and offer a higher level of comfort and better facilities, including an open-
air gym, whirlpool and sunbeds. Note it’s a taxi-ride away from the Yumbo Centre.
Rates include buffet breakfast and there’s a minimum stay of one week. e85.
Respect Los Almendros Avda de Francia 3, Playa del Inglés t +44 870 770
0169 (UK number), w www.respect-holidays.co.uk. Attractive, exclusively
lesbian and gay bungalow complex opposite the Centro Comercial Cita, with swim-
ming pool, gym facilities, Jacuzzi and on-site bar and restaurant. Bungalows are
air-conditioned, sleep up to three and are decorated to a good standard. There are
no restrictions on nude sunbathing. Book by phone via the UK. e85.
Villas Blancas C/Tjaereborg, Maspalomas t 928 769 445, w www.villasblan-
cas.com. The longest-established gay complex on the island, Villas Blancas is a
cluster of recently-furbished, air conditioned bungalows around a pool, bistro and
bar next to the tennis club in the leafy, relaxed Campo Internacional district. Facili-
ties include internet access, telephones and CD players in bungalows. There’s a
smaller, quieter offshoot – Club Villas Blancas – nearby. Gay men only. e75.
refurbished apartments close world landmarks. Inside, the

to the Yumbo, popular with retail outlets focus on jewellery,
gay and heterosexual travellers cameras, and electrical and
alike. The exterior is somewhat leather goods, and there’s
grim and prison-like but for a an open plaza with several
reason, since the lack of large restaurants, many of which are
windows on the street cuts aimed primarily at German
down the noise a bit. Inside, the visitors. The seedy basement
two-bedroom apartments are contains some of Playa del
comfortable, there’s a pool, and Inglés’ more adult-oriented
the location is excellent, with nightlife.
plenty of shopping and dining
opportunities on the doorstep. Centro Comercial Faro 2
e47. Plaza Touroperador Holland
International, Campo Internacional de
Maspalomas wwww.faro2.es. The
Shops strikingly modern spiral layout
and chic designer fashion stores
Centro Comercial Cita give the Faro 2 an upmarket
Avda de Francia wwww.cc-cita.com. edge, and its relatively modest
The Cita Centre is a startling size and pleasant setting amid
structure, its exterior decorated palms and gardens make it by
with vast mockups of famous far the most attractive centro
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125
comercial on the south coast,
despite competition from Cafés
newer complexes in nearby
Meloneras. There’s also a useful Café Wien
supermarket and a reasonable CC Cita t928 760 380, wwww.cafe-
selection of restaurants. wien.org. Mon–Fri 9am–11pm, Sat &
Sun 2–11pm. For some years the
Centro Comercial Yumbo wonderful German-run Café
Avda de EE.UU 54 wwww.cc-yumbo. Wien has served the best coffee
com. The Yumbo is the largest and cakes in the south of the

centro comercial in Playa del island – the rhubarb cream torte
Inglés, good for practical things is especially delicious. Note
like banks, currency exchange that, for some reason, there’s a
and pharmacies and with a few strict demarcation to the tables:
smart fashion and sportswear elderly German couples at the
stores scattered among the back, gay men on the terrace
cheap tourist tat. At night it and everyone else in between.
transforms itself into the centre
of the island’s gay scene and is Churrería Mercado
where the drag cabaret bars are Mercado Municipal, Avda de Alejandro
found. It also functions as the del Castillo, San Fernando t928
town square for the conurbation 786 590. If you want to try the
and is a focus for both Gay traditional Spanish breakfast
Pride and the annual carnival of chocolate con churros (hot
celebrations. chocolate with doughnut-like
strips to dip in) head out to
Fedac this unpretentious little café
Centro Insular de Turismo, Avda de in the municipal market on
España, Playa del Inglés t928 772 Wednesdays and Saturdays. It’s
445. Mon–Fri 10am–2pm & 4–7.30pm open from 5.30am, so you could
If you want to shop for more even take a cab there direct
than beach things or a cheap from the disco.
leather jacket the government-
run Fedac handicrafts store is
the place to come. Located in
the tourist office at the Yumbo
Centre, it sells high quality,
traditional and modern ceramics,
textiles, jewellery, toys and gifts,
all made in the islands.
Mercado Municipal
Avda de Alejandro del Castillo, San
Fernando. Daily 8am–2pm; open air
market Wed & Sat. The municipal
market is a good stop for
excellent fresh bread, vegetables
and delicatessen items. It’s
busiest on Wednesdays and
Saturdays when the stalls spread
into the open area at the back
of the market hall.
CAFÉ WIEN
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126
San Fernando t928 762 736.
Restaurants Mon–Fri & Sun 1pm–midnight, Sat
1pm–12.30am. Stuck a little way
Al Andalus out from San Fernando on the
C/Marcial Franco, Bloque 5, San road to Fataga, La Casa Vieja
Fernando t928 760 465. Daily is probably the most extrovert
noon–midnight. Excellent of the south coast’s Canarian
Andalucian-style tapas bar with restaurants: the parillada of
an authentic atmosphere and assorted meats (e19.50 for two)
largely local clientele. Three is flame-cooked on a vast open
dishes – around e3 each – make grill, the bread and alioli – a

a meal, and portions are big so pungent garlic mayonnaise – are
you won’t leave hungry. Try the excellent, and there’s frequently
meltingly sweet peppers with live music from a traditional
melva – a relative of the tuna Canarian folk band.
– or fried choco (squid).
Las Cumbres Mesón del
Hong Kong Cordero
Avda de España 12, Playa del Inglés Edificio Taidia, Avda de Tirajana, Playa
t928 760 702. Daily noon–midnight. del Inglés t928 760 941. Daily except
Large, showily decorated Tues 1–4pm & 7pm–midnight. The
Chinese restaurant in basement name means “house of lamb”,
premises close to the Yumbo and wonderfully tender oven-
Centre. The menu is mostly cooked lamb, served simply on
Cantonese and the food is the bone with sauté potatoes,
reliable and inexpensive at e7 is the speciality of this Spanish
for a main course. The mirrored restaurant. The rustic interior
ceiling and red panelled walls is enlivened by whole hams
create a glittering effect. dangling from the rafters and
stuffed animals and cuddly toys
La Casa Vieja of all shapes and sizes. Mains are
El Lomo 139, Carretera de Fataga, around e12.
LAS CUMBRES MESÓN DEL CORDERO
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127
La Toja
Avda de Tirajana 17 t928
761 196. Daily 1–4pm
& 7pm–midnight, closed
in June. This long-
established, rather
formal and upmarket
Galician restaurant
has a good reputation.
They serve steaks and

an extensive list of hot
and cold tapas, but
the very best option
is to go for one of the
wonderful fish dishes
like the excellent
grilled turbot for
around e12.
Martel House
CC Yumbo Planta 2 local
232/04 t928 767 793.
Daily 11am–midnight.
MUNDO
Large, bustling
steak house on a spacious Sophisticated modern fusion
balcony that has the edge on cooking in slick, minimalist
its numerous rivals thanks to premises makes Mundo a
efficient, courteous service, a standout among Playa’s
decent selection of Spanish restaurants. The wontons of
wines and hearty portions of black pudding with apple and
meat, plus Spanish and Canarian pine nuts are delicious, the
specialities, for e7–11. prices are reasonable for the
very high quality on offer
Mesón Las Tapas – mains e15 – and it attracts
Centro Comercial Faro 2, Local 206, a mixed crowd of visitors and
Maspalomas t928 761 594. Daily locals. Highly recommended.
11am–11pm. In the upmarket but
rather anodyne surroundings of Rias Bajas
the Faro 2 shopping complex Edificio Playa del Sol, Avda de Tirajana,
in Maspalomas, Meson Las Tapas Playa del Inglés t928 764 033. Daily
flies the flag for the Hispanic 1–4pm & 7pm–midnight. A bit more
way of eating. It’s really more expensive and a bit more plush
a steak house than a tapas bar, than the Playa del Inglés average,
but many tapas favourites are Rias Bajas specializes in fish and
nevertheless here, including seafood, with the likes of grilled
delicious pimientos de padrón, turbot, monkfish in a green herb
queso manchego and jamón serrano, sauce or a zarzuela fish stew to
all priced around e3.50. share. Mains from e22.
Mundo Rimini
Apartamentos Tenesor, Avda de Avda de Gran Canaria 28, Playa
Tirajana, Playa del Inglés t928 del Inglés t928 764 187, wwww.
761 063. Tues–Sun 7pm–1am. ristorantesrimini.com. Daily
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128
noon–midnight. Bustling Italian with a mixed line-up of local
restaurant in a glassy extension and English DJs attracting a
to an apartment block close to marginally younger crowd.
the Gran Chaparral shopping Music tends towards R&B.
centre. The menu is familiar,
with the usual pizza, pasta and Chinawhite…Costa!
more elaborate meat-based Top floor, CC Kasbah, Playa del Inglés.
dishes for e7 and up. Salads Daily 10pm–4am. Playa’s beautiful
are generous, and you should people – including many locals
save space for dessert, which is – dress up to get down to R&B
probably the high point – the and hip-hop in this, probably

pancakes with orange sauce the smartest of the DJ bars atop
and ice cream are especially the Kasbah. The minimalist
good. There’s a sister restaurant decor of white leatherette bar
close to the bars of the Plaza stools and glass-topped tables
Maspalomas. creates the required “smart”
ambience and the atmosphere is
excellent.
Bars
Garage
Beckham Bar CC Kasbah Playa del Inglés. Sun–Thurs
Top floor, CC Kasbah, Playa del 8pm–4am, Fri & Sat 8pm–4.30am.
Inglés. Daily 8pm–4am. Hooded This popular discobar in the
sweatshirts and jeans are the bowels of the Kasbah centre is
style at Beckham, a dress-down less trendy and more laid back
alternative to Chinawhite, than some of its neighbours,
with the DJs playing
mainstream pop and house to
an international crowd. There’s a
small outdoor space too.
Hippodrome Disco Bar

Centro Comercial Plaza de
Maspalomas, Playa del Inglés. Daily
8pm–4am. Discobar aimed at
British holidaymakers at the
bottom of the Plaza shopping
centre, with plenty of pool
tables out front, chart hits on
the decks and Carlsberg to
drink.
Pacha
Edificio Maritim, Playa del Inglés t928
769 201. Daily 8pm–4am. Smart,
relaxed Madrid-style terraza
DJ bar which pulls in an older
(25–45) age group to gyrate to
the latin-tinged dance pop or
relax on the comfy sofas outside.
There’s no cover charge and the
happy hour offers two-for-one
PA C H A drinks in the early evening.
Contents Places
129
Clubs Live music &

Bachira shows
Avda de Italia 27, Playa del Inglés.
Thurs–Sat midnight–6.30am. E7, Casino Palace Gran Canaria
includes first two drinks. Smart, C/Las Retamas 3, San Agustin t928
spacious basement club opposite 762 724, wwww.casino-palace.
the Plaza de Maspalomas net. Set dinner/show menus from
shopping centre, with E49.50 Glitzy supper club at the

slideshows, go-gos and three casino, offering an extravagantly
bars. It attracts a mostly Canario choreographed, somewhat
crowd. Music is mainstream Vegas-style floorshow – albeit
dance pop; it’s busiest around on a smaller scale – with lavish
4am. costumes, ice skating and magic
tricks to distract your attention
Chic/Cream from the rich three- and four-
Plaza de Maspalomas, Playa del course dinner menus, which
Inglés. E15, includes first drink. Big, feature the likes of lobster salad
impressive and rather expensive and medallions of sirloin steak
disco associated with Cream in with mushrooms. There’s also an
the UK and attracting a trendy, à la carte menu.
twenty-something crowd.
Industrial decor matches the Garbo’s Dinner Theatre
banging hard house and techno, Bahía Feliz t928 157 060, wwww.
and there are four bars, regular nordotel.com. Dinner and show E45.
guest DJ spots, go-go dancers Singing waiters, chorus lines and
and acres of space in which to broadway medleys accompany
dance. A shop in the foyer sells dinner at Garbo’s, in the plush
body jewellery. setting of a former opera
house that closed after its first
JPM performance and remained dark
Holidayworld, Avda Touroperador TUI, for the next 22 years. Garbo’s
Campo Internacional, Maspalomas. Fri has evidently broken the curse
& Sat midnight–6am. JPM is a big since it opened in 1997.
(2000 capacity) house and dance
music club in Maspalomas, Ricky’s Cabaret Bar
with 20,000 watts of sound, Planta Baja, CC Yumbo, Playa del
regular themed nights on Inglés. Show nightly around midnight.
Saturdays including Mexican Free. An accessible slice of drag
and Hawaiian parties, a VIP area, cabaret that attracts as many
and guest DJs including some heterosexual as gay punters,
international big names. Ricky’s packs them in every
night for a rather British,
Sueño Latino end-of-the-pier mix of music,
Holidayworld, Avda Touroperador TUI, sequins, audience humiliation
Campo Internacional, Maspalomas. and karaoke, with a Spanish
Fri & Sat 11pm–6am Slick salsa, dance troupe every Monday.
bachata and meringue club with Nearby Café LaBelle offers
a Cuban theme to the decor a similarly tried-and-tested
and a rather older crowd than blend of entertainment to a less
the house and techno clubs. packed house.
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130
Lesbian & gay bars and clubs
The Costa Canaria’s enduring popularity with lesbian and gay holidaymakers is
reflected in its huge gay nightlife scene, which quite out-glitters the straight scene
and is focused on – though by no means limited to – the Yumbo Centre. The lesbian
presence is small in comparison with the huge commercial gay scene, but lesbians
will be welcome in all except the more cruisy men’s bars.
Centro Comercial Yumbo By day the Yumbo is the largest shopping centre in
Playa del Inglés, but by night it’s probably the largest single concentration of gay
bars and clubs in Europe. Evenings kick off after 10.30pm on the lowest level
(Planta Baja) in one of the relaxed terraza bars like Nestor or Adonis, or at one
of the drag cabaret bars where the drinks tend to be more expensive. There’s a
split between Anglophone and Germanic gay nightlife early in the evening, with
the better beer on offer in German bars such as Na Und? and Spartacus. Later,
it’s a choice between the quirky – local TS and TV colour at The Terry Show or
show tunes on video at Centre Stage – the cruisy, in dark bars like Construction
and Cruise, or the trendier, dance-oriented video bars on the fourth floor, where
the action moves progressively from Tubos via Mykonos to the packed, intimate
Mantrix. Heaven, on the third floor, is an offshoot of the famous London club and
is the largest and most spectacular gay disco in the island, with slick modern
decor, sexy go-go dancers, drag queens on podiums and big-name DJs from the
international circuit. XL, on floor 2 below the taxi rank, is a traditional last port of
call for dancing and drinking before heading to bed.
Detox/Retox Avda de Tirajana, Playa del Inglés. Tues–Sun 6.30pm–2am.
w www.detoxretox.com. Stylish, laid-back bar with an amusing gimmick:
alongside the usual beers, cocktails and shots they offer a range of healthier fruit
smoothies and milkshakes. At last, the fashion crowd has somewhere in Playa del
Inglés to go and not drink.
First Lady Edificio Taidia, Avda de Tirajana, Playa del Inglés. Daily 8pm–
2.30am. The Costa Canaria’s only lesbian bar and music club is run by a couple of
German women and is popular with locals and visitors alike. Gay men are welcome
as guests. There’s a nightly happy hour between 8–9.30pm.
Margo & Roland Strand-apo-Theke Oasis, Local 35–36, Maspalomas.
Mon–Sat 11am–8pm. Perfectly located for a sundowner on the surfers’ favourite
section of Maspalomas beach, Strand-apo-theke is probably the most relaxed and
convivial gay bar on the island. It’s packed every afternoon with a predominantly
male, German crowd, who seem to know all the words to the cheesy schlager
tunes that belt out of the sound system.
Contents Places
131
The southwest coast

Few places have been transformed as radically by tour-
ism as the once-barren barrancos of Gran Canaria’s
rocky southwest. Where once a few fishermen eked out
a living, purpose-built resorts now cater to the needs
of sun-starved northern Europeans, golf courses paint
the arid landscape green, and even the beaches are
P L A C ES coast
artificial. At Puerto Rico, apartments climb high up
the barranco sides to create the impression of a giant
stadium, while at Patalavaca, hotels are wedged dra-
matically between cliffs and the sea. The beaches are
The southwest
smaller than at Maspalomas, but the sea beckons in
other ways: Arguineguín and Puerto de Mogán remain
real, working fishing ports, Puerto de Mogán’s marina
is a textbook example of sensitive tourist development,
and Puerto Rico’s harbour is the departure point for all
kinds of sea adventures, from game fishing to windjam-
mers and power boats. Away from all this, the Barranco
de Mogán is one of the
most fruitful valleys in
Gran Canaria, while the
remote black sand beach
of Veneguera and the res-
ervoir of Soria inland offer
escapes from the crowds.
Best of all, this coast has
the island’s most reliable
sunshine record.
Salobre
Set in a natural amphitheatre,
sheltered from the trade winds SALOBRE GOLF
Visiting the southwest

The southwest resorts lie at the far end of the GC-1 motorway, which ends just
beyond Puerto Rico: beyond this, road conditions deteriorate markedly and the
coast road is twisting, narrow and busy. Parking is relatively easy in Puerto Rico,
Amadores and Playa de Mogán, less so elsewhere due to the constricted sites of
many resorts. Useful local buses include the frequent #32 between Puerto de
Mogán and Playa del Inglés and the #84 that links Puerto de Mogán with Mogán.
In Puerto Rico, the local Guaguas Mogán shuttle between the CC Europa and
Amadores for a flat fare of e0.90. The main tourist office is by the bus station and
central traffic intersection in Puerto Rico (Avda de Mogán e928 560 029, w www.
mogan.es, open Mon–Fri 9.30am–2.30pm & 5–7pm, Sat 9.30am–2.30pm); the
main taxi rank is also close by (t 928 152 740).
Contents Places
132
Los Azulejos & San Nicolás de Tolentino Pinar de Pajonales Soria
0 2 km
Mogán
Molino del Viento GC-505
GC-200
The southwest coast P L A C ES
Playa de
Veneguera
Taurito
Puerto de Mogán
Playas Pasito, Bea, Monaña & Arenas

GC-500
Camping
Guantanamo II
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RESTAURANTS
Apolo XI 3
Patalavaca
Casa Enrique 1
Cofradía de Pescadores 2 Arguineguín El Pajar
THE SOUTHWEST COAST 2 3
and with excellent views of Playa de Pasito Bea

the island’s central mountains Bus #32 from Maspalomas. Along
and the dunes at Maspalomas, the GC-500 old coast road
the luxurious new 18-hole golf are to be found some of the
course and resort of Salobre is a south’s few remaining secluded
world unto itself, screened from beaches. The first of these, the
the motorway and approached Playa de Pasito Bea, is an
from its own motorway attractively secluded sandy cove
exit. The golf course and its with wonderfully clear water.
surrounding development It’s easy to reach, being just a
is a surreal sight, the lush couple of hundred metres down
greens and opulent, stylishly a dirt track from the coast road,
modern private villas standing but development is encroaching
in stark contrast to the arid from the east and it may not
surroundings. A second course preserve its isolated character
and a five-star Sheraton hotel much longer.
were both scheduled to open in
2006. There’s a restaurant with Playa de Montaña Arenas
views over the greens and a Bus #32 from Maspalomas. West
shop on site. of the Playa de Pasito Bea the
Playa de Carpinteras is not
Contents Places
133
Fiestas del Carmen
Each year in July, on successive Sundays closest to the saint’s day on July 16 the
two major fishing villages of the southwest, Arguineguín and Puerto De Mogán
celebrate the festival of Nuestra Señora del Carmen, the patron saint of sailors. On
the first Sunday, an image of the Virgin heads a flotilla of fishing boats in proces-
sion from Arguineguín to Puerto de Mogán, where it “meets” that latter’s Virgin,
before the fleet sails home again, the boats festooned with balloons or decorations
for the occasion. The following Sunday it’s the turn of the fishermen of Puerto de
Mogán to sail their fleet to Arguineguín and back in a mirror image of the previous
P L A C ES The southwest coast

week’s festivities. The festival is also celebrated in Telde, San Nicolás de Tolentino
and in the La Isleta district of Las Palmas.
especially appealing, a stoney shelving sandy beach and a few

stretch with a World War II facilities, including an ice cream
pillbox. It does, however, have stall and a fish restaurant. East of
signposted parking off the GC- here the coast is less developed
500 road and gives access on with the rock and sand beach of
foot to the sandy nudist beach Llano de los Militares and the
of Montaña Arenas, which is pebbly Playa de Triana where
altogether more alluring. Access you can camp provided you
is along the Playa de Carpinteras have a permit from the local
and around the headland and authority of San Bartolomé de
is a bit of a scramble but well Tirajana (w www.maspalomas.
worth it – it’s precisely this com).
difficulty of access that has kept
the beach unspoilt. Montaña Arguineguín
Arenas gets its name from the Bus #32 from Maspalomas, Puerto
vast mountain of sand behind Rico or Puerto de Mogán; regular
that overlooks it. Note there are ferries operated by Líneas Blue Bird or
no facilities here. Líneas Salmón from Puerto Rico and
Puerto de Mogán. Part resort, part
El Pajar fishing port, the pleasantly low-
Bus #32 from Maspalomas. Despite key little town of Arguineguín
being overshadowed by the is no architectural wonder but,
cement works on a nearby despite tourist development on
headland, El Pajar is a small, its fringes, it retains the feel of
pleasant village with a gently a working port. There’s a busy
B AY O F A R G U I N E G U Í N
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134
Baranquillo
Andrés, just
before the
reservoir, a
rough and
twisting road
climbs higher
still, taking
SORIA
you deep into
the heart of
food market here every Tuesday the island to the pure air of the
morning (8am–2pm), and for pine forest of Pinar de Pajonales,
sun-lovers there’s a long curve crossed by hiking trails. Freytag
of golden sand in the town itself & Berndt’s 1:75,000 Gran
and a shorter beach of sand and Canaria map marks the trails
pebbles on the east side of town. clearly.
To the west, an attractive coastal Here, at the smaller reservoir
path winds around the rocky of Cueva de las Niñas there’s
headland past small restaurants an inviting picnic site among
and a diving academy with the pine trees by the side of
English speaking instructors (see the lake, and a kiosk selling ice
Essentials, p.175). It continues creams and snacks.
towards the tourist hotels to a
tiny sand beach sheltered by a Patalavaca
breakwater that creates, in effect, The small, rather quiet resort of
a natural saltwater pool for Patalavaca is in effect a westward
swimming. But it’s Arguineguín’s extension of Arguineguín. Its
restaurants that are the real draw, tall hotels rather overshadow
particularly the fishermen’s the small but pleasant sandy
cooperative, the Cofradía de beach, which is reached via
Pescadores (see p.142) which is the car park in the barranco,
inside the harbour gates. entered from the landward
side of the GC-500 coast road.
Soria and the Pinar de
Pajonales
Parched though the district
of Mogán is at sea level, it
becomes progressively greener
as you head into the island’s
mountainous interior. One
particularly beautiful journey is
along the GC-505, which runs
from the junction at El Pajar on
the outskirts of Arguineguín to
the reservoir at Soria, the largest
on the island, with a dramatic
high dam and a setting of green
mountains. Pelargoniums tumble
over the garden walls of the
village of Soria overlooking
the water and there are orange
groves along the way.
From the hamlet of El PATA L A VA C A
Contents Places
135
There’s a scattering of shops and environment and loathed
restaurants along the coast road, by others for whom it
but it’s far more pleasant to dine represents the worst sort of
in one of the restaurants along overdevelopment, Puerto
the traffic-free coastal path. This Rico is the largest resort in
meanders from the attractive the southwest, a vast white
public lido (daily 10am–6pm; amphitheatre scaling the slopes
e6) past the luxury Dunas of an unusually wide barranco.
Canarias hotel towards the The thousands of apartments
timeshare and marina complex are raked back against the

of Anfi del Mar, whose public hillsides in imitation of a sports
beach, the Playa de la Verga, stadium, so that each gets a
is a dazzling strip of white, balcony or patio and long hours
Caribbean-style sand. of sunshine. The sea views get
better the higher you go, and
Puerto Rico the apartment complexes at the
Loved by some for its safe, very top are not overshadowed
family-friendly holiday and consequently enjoy more
PUERTO RICO TIMANFAYA

Aquapark
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EATING & DRINKING

6
N Balcón Canario 2
ACCOMMODATION Puerto Chez Funny Boy 1
Apartamentos Blue Star B Base Don Quijote 5
Arizona Bungalows A Harley’s Café Dancing 3
Gloria Palace Amadores D La Parada 4
Riosol Aparthotel C Puerto Escala 6
Contents Places
136
uninterrupted sun, so for those more spacious than the beach
who don’t mind being a bus in Puerto Rico itself, and on a
or cab ride from the beach clear day it offers views across
the higher, western parts of to Mount Teide on Tenerife.
the town around the Centro The resort area behind it is still
Comercial Europa are a good developing, but there are already
bet. Larger complexes often have plenty of places to eat on the
funicular railways connected seafront. Just north of the Centro
with the road; without this or Comercial Puerto Rico is the
at least a lift, some of Puerto Aquapark Puerto Rico (Avda
Rico’s apartments are only for Tomás Rocas Bosch t928 560
the fit, which perhaps explains 666; daily 10am–6pm; e20,
their popularity among young, child e14), whose attractions
hard-partying singles. include slides, a giant waterfall
The heart of the resort is and a children’s pool. It’s nicely
defined by a series of subtropical landscaped, and you can buy
gardens threading down the snacks, drinks and simple meals.
barranco from the grimly
functional Centro Comercial Playa de Tauro and Playa del
Puerto Rico to the sea, offering Cura
a shady and mostly traffic-free Playa de Tauro sits at the dry
approach to the man-made mouth of its eponymous
beach. The low-rise, small-scale barranco, a very humble little
complexes fringing the park settlement strung out along a
represent the first phase of Puerto beach of pebbles and grey sand.
Rico’s tourist development, There’s a bar almost on the
predating the terraced hillsides. beach and a long-established
The beach is a pleasant, if campsite inland, but not much
not particularly large, curve of else – for the moment. The
golden sand, backed by cafés bulldozers are moving in here,
and a public lido (Piscina La and a short distance away in
Rotonda; daily 10am–6pm; e6). the Barranco del Lechugal
To either side of the beach the there’s a glitzy new nine-hole
leisure-oriented harbours are golf course, Anfi Tauro Golf,
packed with yachts and with all with attendant luxury villa
manner of boats offering trips developments that ape pre-
along the coast, including Lineas Hispanic stone roundhouses.
Salmón (Puerto Escala t649 Plans for a shopping centre
919 383) and Lineas Blue
Bird (Puerto Base t629 989
633), both of which use glass-
bottomed boats to link Puerto
Rico with Puerto de Mogán,
Anfi and Arguineguín for
around e9 return.
From the Puerto Escala, it’s
an easy one-kilometre stroll
along a clifftop footpath to
Playa de Amadores, the
most recently constructed
of Puerto Rico’s man-made
beaches. An 800-metre long
crescent of fine sand, it’s much C L I F F T O P W A L K , P U E R T O R I C O
Contents Places
137

L A G O TA U R I T O O A S I S
and a marina with space for Puerto Rico and Puerto de

500 yachts have also been put Mogán pass along the coast road,
forward. To the west of Playa but for the time being there are
de Tauro, the little urbanizacíon no stops and visitors to Tiritaña
of Playa del Cura is pleasantly mostly arrive by car or by yacht.
unimposing, like an isolated
fragment of Puerto Rico, with Playa de Taurito
a few apartment blocks hugging The Barranco de Taurito is
the hillsides and a short sandy one of the narrowest valleys
beach backed by a promenade. yet developed as a resort, with
It’s relatively tasteful and there’s mixed results. The big hotel
a small centro comercial, but this is and apartment complexes of
essentially a quiet beach resort. Playa de Taurito are slick but
monotonous to look at, so
Playa de Tiritaña that you’re more immediately
At the Barranco de Tiritaña, conscious than in Puerto Rico
midway between Playa del Cura that this is a purely artificial
and Taurito, a steep, rough path resort. The grey sandy beach is
leads down into the savagely pleasant but rather small; the real
narrow canyon to the sandy focus of Playa de Taurito is the
Playa de Tiritaña. Given the impressive Lago Taurito Oasis
athleticism you’ll need for (Urbanizacíon Taurito t 928
the descent it’s really only for 565 426; daily10am–6pm; e9),
the most enthusiastic nature an attractively landscaped lido
lovers or determined nudists. with saltwater swimming pools,
Developers are closing in on children’s playgrounds, tennis
the neighbouring barrancos of El and squash courts and a jogging
Medio Almud and Los Frailes: circuit, all sheltering in a grove
the street lamps, palm trees and of date palms. There’s also a
paved roads are in place, and it diving school here. Continuing
seems unlikely that their rock large scale development on the
and sand beaches will remain the western flank of the barranco
preserve of nudists much longer. means some construction noise
Global buses travelling between can be expected.
Contents Places
138
Puerto de Mogán – and the harbour front is a
Sometimes known as the suntrap, making it an ideal spot
“Venice of the Canaries” for its for al fresco dining and people
appealing architecture, waterside watching.
location and picturesque The town is one of the most
bridge across the canal-like popular excursions on the
barranco, Puerto de Mogán island and on Fridays, when
has more charm than most of the rather tacky tourist market
the other resorts on this coast (8am–2pm) fills the streets,
put together. What was once it is swamped. Recently, the
a dirt-poor fishing village in grey Playa de Mogán was

a remote part of the island upgraded into a splendid arc
was transformed in the early of golden sand, backed by a
1980s by the construction of well-designed new traffic-free
a marina, holiday apartments, promenade which has quickly
shops and restaurants. Low-rise attracted some high quality
and small-scale, with traffic- restaurants, while inland a new
free lanes and bougainvillea resort suburb is gradually filling
everywhere, this development the valley floor with large-scale
has stood the test of time development – the Cordial
remarkably well. The water in Mogán Playa hotel alone has 950
the harbour is astonishingly rooms.
clear – despite the luxury yachts Rather aloof from all this,
and motor cruisers that fill it the old fishing village clings to
its cliff, its narrow, stepped
Mogán streets peaceful and cool,
with lots of flowers and
ACCOMMODATION skinny cats. There’s nothing
Hotel Puerto de Mogán B
La Venecia de Canarias A specific to see here, but it’s
a pleasant enough area for
l ia
EATING
L LO omerc
El Caldero de Mogán 2
some aimless strolling.
Tu Casa 1
C
Playa de Taurito, Puerto Rico & Las Palmas

TRA entro
Mogán
SMA
C
From Puerto de Mogán the

RMEN
main road swings inland

L
JE E
GC-500
and begins its slow, gentle
PASA
DEL CA
ascent of the lush Barranco

RIBERA
de Mogán, passing through

several roadside hamlets
with exquisite gardens and
small-scale plantations of
1 2
Market pawpaw, mango and other
GC-500
A
Playa de
Mogán
exotic fruits until it finally
B
reaches Mogán itself, almost
at the head of the valley
Puerto
Deportivo
N and backed by imposing
escarpments. Mogán is
a sleepy place, despite
0 200 m
being the seat of the local
ayuntamiento (town hall);
there are one or two good
PUERTO DE MOGÁN places to eat, and the early
nineteenth-century church
Contents Places
139
Yellow Submarine
One of the more unusual excursions from Puerto de Mogán is the journey to the
bottom of the Atlantic offered by the Yellow Submarine (Atlántida Submarine SL,
Local 389, Puerto de Mogán t 928 565 108; e27.50), a small but big-windowed
modern passenger sub that makes hourly descents from 10am to around 5pm
daily. The journey lasts 45 minutes, there are special buses from all along the
coast that combine the trip with a visit to Puerto de Mogán itself, and it’s worth
watching out for special offers.

of St Anthony of Padua contains there’s a camping area. The
contains wood engravings that possibility that this, the last
are worth a look if the church major undeveloped beach in the
is open. Just to the south of southwest, might be developed
Mogán, at Molino de Viento, as a tourist urbanizacíon rallied
there’s a recently-restored environmentalists like no other
windmill at the roadside. There’s issue in Gran Canaria in the late
no entrance charge, but during 1990s. Recognizing its botanical
the day you can usually wander and geological importance,
round the interior, though it the parliament of the Canaries
doesn’t quite live up to the voted unanimously in 2003 to
beautiful exterior. A short preserve Veneguera as a nature
distance beyond the village reserve.
an unsurfaced road climbs the
Ojeda pass to the reservoir of Los Azulejos
El Mulato before linking with Beyond Las Casas de Veneguera
a better road that continues the Mogán-San Nicolás de
to the reservoir of Cueva de Tolentino road reaches one of
las Niñas and the centre of the most remarkable geological
the island at Ayacata. The steep features on the island. At Los
ascent of the Ojeda pass itself, Azulejos – literally, “the tiles”
however, is only suitable for
4WD vehicles.
Playa de Veneguera
Blissfully remote and one of the
few truly dark volcanic beaches
on Gran Canaria, the Playa de
Veneguera is a favourite with
those who like to get away
from it all. It lies at the end of
a rough, rocky 13-kilometre
track suitable only for hikers or
4WD vehicles, signposted from
the main Mogán-San Nicolás
de Tolentino road through
the settlement of Las Casas de
Veneguera. The southwest-
facing valley is full of fruit
plantations and is extremely
attractive, while the black sand
beach itself is quite broad, and PUERTO DE MOGÁN
Contents Places
140
– a rock wall rears up from the Mogán marina, this relatively
roadside, its exposed face stained small hotel has a simple, tasteful,
ice cream shades of yellow, almost yacht-like feel, with
rusty purple or – most startling summery, rather Mediterranean
of all – a coppery green by rooms, tiled floors, majolica
the minerals in the rock. The bathrooms and lots of wicker.
lonely grandeur of the rugged The pool – and some rooms
mountain scenery here is a real – look directly over the sea.
contrast to the bustling coastal They also have apartments to
resorts, the hillsides carpeted rent. e92.
with highly ornamental

succulent euphorbias including
the cheerful yellow-green Apartments
tabaibales and proud stands
of spurge (cardónales), which Apartamentos Blue Star
resemble organ pipes growing Avda de la Cornisa 25, Puerto Rico
out of the hillside. It’s a t928 560 993, wwww.bluestar.es.
particularly beautiful sight in The hilltop site means plenty of
winter, when small, isolated sun and sweeping sea views for
waterfalls sometimes flow most of the apartments at this
down the mountainsides. On big, rather stark budget-priced
the highest inland peaks, the complex. A funicular railway
pine forests of Ojeda fringe the links the various levels to the
mountaintops. reception, which is at the top.
The functional apartments sleep
up to three people and have
Hotels tiled floors, a kitchenette, living/
dining room and one double
Gloria Palace Amadores bedroom. The third person
Avda La Cornisa, Puerto Rico t928 sleeps on a sofabed. There are
128 510, wwww.hotelgloriapalace. two pools, but not much in the
com. Lush gardens with an way of frills or greenery. e29.
artificial waterfall, colourful
majolica decoration and a Arizona Bungalows
clifftop location with wide sea Avda Gran Canaria, Puerto Rico
views and plenty of sun make t928 560 880, wwww.grupoliberty.
the Gloria Palace Amadores stand com. Among the nicer budget
out among Puerto Rico’s hotels. choices on the eastern side of
The public areas are generously Puerto Rico, these apartments
sized, as are the rooms, which are a short walk uphill from
come with limestone tiled floors the Centro Comercial Puerto
and pale wood to give a warm Rico and its nightlife and
but contemporary feel. Like its consequently popular with a
sister hotel at San Agustín, its young crowd. The grounds
spa majors in thalassotherapy are very attractive and each
treatments using seawater. e124. apartment has its own bit of
bougainvillea and a spacious
Puerto de Mogán terrace. The duplex apartments
Club de Mar, Puerto de Mogán sleep up to five in two separate
t928 565 066, wwww.clubdemar. bedrooms, making them good
com. With an enviable position value if you’re travelling with a
right on the water’s edge at group. e55.
the entrance to the Puerto de
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141
La Venecia de Canarias on the island, with caravans and
Urbanizacíon Puerto de Mogán, mobile homes as well as spaces
Local 328 t928 565 600, wwww. for tents. It’s a sheltered spot, if
laveneciadecanarias.net. These one- rather dusty, for now undisturbed
and two-bedroom apartments though developers are already
are right in the marina of moving in on the lower reaches
Puerto de Mogán – the “Venice of the barranco. The gates close
of the Canaries”, as it styles from 11.30pm–7am each night.
itself. This is probably still the Adult e4.10, tent e3.30–5.50,
prettiest tourist development caravan e4.50, motor caravan

on the island, with something e6.20.
of the feel of a real village and
plenty of luxuriant planting
to soften the edges. All the Shops
apartments have kitchen, phone
and TV; some have balconies or Cerámica Mogán
terraces. e60. On the GC-200 at the southern
entrance to Mogán t617 868
Riosol Aparthotel 016, wwww.iandodgsonfinearts.
Avda de la Cornisa t928 561 co.uk. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun
258, wwww.riosolaparthotel.com. 10am–2pm. Locally made, hand
Occupying a plum, fortress-like thrown pottery in a range
position on the corner of the of styles both traditional and
hill overlooking Puerto Rico, contemporary make a visit
the Riosol has truly fabulous to the Cerámica Mogán a
views down to the beach and pleasurable part of a trip to
sea. Accommodation is a mix Mogán. Some of the pottery
of simply furnished one- and is unglazed, inspired by the
two-bedroom apartments with traditional styles of the island;
kitchens, and conventional there are also fine art ceramics.
double rooms. There are two Prices are reasonable.
pools, squash and tennis courts,
a mini golf range, a games and
fitness room and Jacuzzi, plus Cafés
restaurants and a minimarket on
site, while the Centro Comercial La Parada
Europa is only a short walk away. At the Parada de Taxis, Puerto Rico.
Apartments e66, doubles e60. Open 24 hours. This unassuming
open-fronted, stand-up bar next
to the taxi rank in Puerto Rico
Campsites is open round the clock offering
inexpensive tapas, pizzas,
Camping Guantanamo II sandwiches and ice creams,
Barranco de Tauro, signposted off the washed down with coffee, beer
GC-500 road at Playa de Tauro t928 or something stronger.
562 098, wwww.campingguantanamo.
com. Reception open Mon–Sat 2.30–
4.30pm. Recently relocated 1.6km Restaurants
inland from the coast road (where
there’s a restaurant bearing the Apolo XI
same, rather unfortunate name), Plaza de los Poetas 12, Arguineguín
Camping Guantanamo II is one of t928 735 065. Daily 10am–11pm.
the few fully fledged campsites The name alludes to the space
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142
superbly
fresh,
garlicky
alioli and
wonderful
warm
bread, then
scrutinize the
daily specials
on the
blackboard:
chickpea
stew with
COFRADÍA DE PESCADORES chorizo,
delicious grilled tuna or
centre in the hills between chorizo with melting red and
Arguineguín and Maspalomas, green peppers can be some of
which tracked the NASA moon the options. Round off with
probes in the 1960s and 1970s. juicy fresh melon and papaya,
There’s nothing space age about or home-made flan (crème
the food here, though; rather, caramel), and expect to pay
they serve traditional Canarian around e15 for lunch.
dishes, from gofio escaldado to
estofado (beef stew), ropa vieja or Cofradía de Pescadores
callos con garbanzas – tripe with Avda del Muelle, Arguineguín t928
chickpeas – for e5–9. 150 963. Daily noon–11pm. This
simple concrete structure
Balcón Canario inside the port complex at
CC Puerto Rico Local 257, Avda Arguineguín has become
Tomás Roca Bosch, Puerto Rico something of a legend on this
t928 561 658 or 928 159 017. A coast, and with the fishing boats
Hispanic island in the otherwise moored behind the restaurant
overwhelmingly British- and the freshness of the fish is
Irish-oriented CC Puerto guaranteed. Go for the catch of
Rico, Balcón Canario is a the day and look out for local
reliable choice for good tapas fish such as breca, grilled and
at reasonable prices: expect a served with papas arrugadas, salad
blow-out meal here to cost no and a wedge of lemon. The
more than e15 or so; the tuna desserts, which make heavy use
croquetas are particularly filling. of gofio and bienmesabe, are also
The printed menu doesn’t tell worth a try. Prices are moderate,
the whole story – check the mains are around e7.50.
whiteboard at the back for
specials, or follow the lead of Don Quijote
the locals. Apartamentos Portonovo, Puerto Base,
Puerto Rico t928 560 901. Daily
Casa Enrique 2.15–10.45pm. With its long,
C/San José, Mogán t928 569 542. mostly Spanish wine list and
Daily noon–11pm. This spacious interesting menu including
restaurant on the main street partridge and breasts of quail,
in rural Mogán is well worth this restaurant on the fringe
the trek from the coast for its of the Puerto Base is among
excellent tapas. Start off with the most authentically Spanish
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143
in Puerto Rico. More familiar of one of the few remaining
choices include albóndigas original buildings along the
(meatballs), calamares and cod beachfront of Playa de Mogán.
in marinera sauce and there Inside, it’s all framed prints, pale
are also steaks. Expect to pay walls and high ceilings with
e10–12 for a main course. beams; outside, it’s a sunny place
to see and be seen. Kick off
El Caldero de Mogán with papas arrugadas with mojo
Nuevo Paseo Marítimo, Playa de before moving on to fresh fish
Mogán t928 565 367. Open Mon or paella, shoulder of young

& Wed–Sun 11am–10pm Sitting lamb or one of the Italian
on the smart new beachfront specialities priced around e9.
promenade at Playa de Mogán,
El Caldero serves vast paellas,
tapas-style dishes including Bars & clubs
croquetas de morcilla (blood
sausage croquettes) and apple Harley’s Café Dancing
sauce, and well-presented main Planta 2, CC Puerto Rico. Sun–Thurs
courses such as hake fillet with 7pm–2.30am, Fri & Sat 7pm–3.30am.
crisp skin, served on a bed of Puerto Rico has dozens of
caramelized onions with a roast bars crammed into the Centro
red pepper sauce. Innovative Comercial all competing to have
desserts include a hot soup of the loudest sound systems, the
forest fruits or carpaccio of most tempting drinks promos
pineapple marinated in rum and the most annoying touts
with coconut ice-cream. Choose trying to lure you in. Of the
between the sunny terrace big DJ bars Harley’s is much the
facing the sea or the cooler, slickest, with a brace of Harley
darker interior. Around e22 for Davidson motorcycles for decor
two courses. and male podium dancers for a
gimmick – not surprisingly, it
Puerto Escala tends to be especially popular
Puerto Deportivo, Puerto Rico t928 with women.
560 690. Daily 8am–10.30pm. The
location on the outer harbour
wall of one of Puerto Rico’s Live
two harbours makes this one
of the most relaxing spots for entertainment
a meal in town. It’s little more
than an open-sided shack, but Chez Funny Boy
the pizzas – from e5.50 – are Planta 2, CC Puerto Rico. Daily from
good, the swordfish is excellent 9pm, shows start 10.30pm. Free.
and there are a few more exotic Tucked into the quieter, more
items on the menu, including sedate upper part of the Centro
fried whole baby octopus with Comercial away from the loud
thyme. They occasionally have DJ bars, Chez Funny Boy is
live music from a flamenco Puerto Rico’s very own slice
guitarist too. Pizzas from E5.50. of quick-fire drag cabaret, with
outrageous costumes, wigs,
Tu Casa broad humour and lip-synching
Avda de las Artes 18, Playa de Mogán to assorted divas. Very tourist-
t928 565 078. Daily 11am–11pm. oriented, it’s not particularly gay.
Tu Casa is a classy conversion
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144
The west coast and the

Andén Verde
The great rampart of Gran Canaria’s west coast is the
antithesis of the buzzing tourist regions to the south,
and in some ways its antidote, for this part of the island
The west coast and the Andén Verde P L A C ES
is as unspoiled as its topography is savage. Between

the isolated, tomato-growing community of San Nicolás
de Tolentino and the picturesque fishing village of
Puerto de las Nieves the high mountains of the Cum-
bre come crashing down in barely four spectacular
kilometres from the 1444-metre heights of the Pico de
Tamadaba to the ocean. The rocks on this rugged coast
are among the oldest on the island, dating from the
eruptions fourteen million years ago that created the
island. A celebrated but hair-raising coast road – the
Andén Verde – runs the length of the coast, and is with-
out doubt the scenic highlight of the round-the-island
drive. Not surprisingly given the rough terrain, beaches
are few and generally hard to reach, though they’re all
the more precious for being relatively empty – especially
the remote Playa de Güigüí. This is wonderful country
too for keen hikers, with charming, secret pastoral land-
scapes in the barrancos of Tasarte and Tasártico, and
villages with their own low-key charm – Puerto de las
Nieves most of all.
Barranco de Tasártico de Tolentino road, where there’s

From the Mirador of Tasártico a makeshift café and good views
on the main Mogán-San Nicolás down into the Barranco de la
Visiting the west coast

Driving the Andén Verde requires concentration. The road is well surfaced but
narrow and twisting, and for most of its length the drops are precipitous. The
drive south from San Nicolás de Tolentino is similarly exhilarating and equally
tiring. Minor roads in this part of the island are usually narrow, frequently steep
and sometimes still unsurfaced, but they are at least usually quiet. Puerto de
las Nieves’ tourist office is at C/Nuestra Señora de las Nieves 1 (Mon–Thurs
9.30am–4.30pm, Fri 9.30am–3.30pm, Sat 9.30am–noon t 928 554 382, w www.
aytoagaete.es) and has information on various taxi tours of the district. There’s no
longer a tourist office in San Nicolás de Tolentino but limited tourist information
including an English-language guide is available from the ayuntamiento (C/General
Franco 28 t 928 892 305, w www.la-aldea.com).
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THE NORTHWEST & Puerto de las Nieves A

1
Agaete
THE ANDÉN VERDE
Ba
GC-231
Playa de Guayedra
rra
nc
o San Pedro
ACCOMMODATION Playa de Sotavento
de
Los Cascajos C
Ag
ae
Princesa Guayarmina B
te
e B
Puerto de las Nieves A rd Los Berrazales
Ve GC-200
n El Sao
EATING dé
El Oliver 1 N n
A Playa del Risco
El Hornillo
Embalse
e Los Pérez
Th Tamadaba
ba
(1444m)
P L A C ES The west coast and the Andén Verde

da
El Risco
ma
Embalse de
Ta Lugarejos
de
ar
Pi n
GC-200
Mirador del Balcón

PARQUE NATURAL
Poblado de DE TAMADABA
Caserones
Playa de
la Aldea
Puerto de la Aldea Embalse de
El Paralillo
C
GC-200
GC-606
San Nícolás 0 2 km
de Tolentino Embalse de
El Siberio
Cactualdea Park & Mogán
Aldea, a narrow minor road a nature reserve, rich in native

– the GC-204 – leads along a flora and an important site for
rock face into the peaceful little seabirds. Güigüí has achieved
barranco of Tasártico. Like many almost mythical status not just
valleys in this part of the island for its beauty – some claim it’s
it’s a world unto itself, though the loveliest beach on the island
it’s neither as lush nor as large – but because it is just about
as the barrancos of Mogán or the most difficult to reach,
Veneguera. After the village of backed by sheer mountainsides
Las Casas Blancas de Tasártico plunging down into the sea.
the road through the valley There’s no road, so you must
is unsurfaced, continuing to either come by sea or on foot
the rocky beach of Playa de across the mountains.
Tasártico. Long before you Super Cat excursions
reach that, at La Solana, the departing from Puerto Rico
shorter of the two hikers’ routes (t 928 735 656) sometimes
to the Playa de Güigüí leaves make it along the coast as far
the road on the right. South of as Güigüí if the weather is
the Mirador de Tasártico, in the fine, but it’s not possible to
direction of Veneguera, a minor disembark once you get there.
road leads through the village of Unless you can persuade a
Tasarte into the barranco of the fisherman at Puerto de la Aldea
same name, at the end of which to take you, the only option is
is another pebbly beach, the to walk. There are two routes,
Playa de Tasarte. neither suitable for beginners
or the unfit. The longer of the
Playa de Güigüí hike two departs from El Tarajalillo
The remote, golden sandy beach midway between San Nicolás
of Güigüí stands in the heart of and the coast at La Aldea, and
Contents Places
146
takes five and a half hours, in the town centre where there’s
ascending to 700m at the a large but rather plain modern
Degollada de Peñon Bermejo church, a few bustling streets
and passing the Montaña de los and a couple of bars. It’s not
Cedros, the last redoubt of the the most distinguished town
Canary Island cedar in Gran on the island architecturally,
Canaria. The shorter walk takes but there are a few simple old
two hours from La Solana in houses in the central traffic-free
the Barranco de Tasártico, and zone, and a restored windmill
ascends to 650m. For safety at the junction of the Mogán
reasons don’t walk to Güigüí road with the carretera general

alone, let someone know that that leads into the town. There’s
you’re going, take plenty of also a small farm museum, the
water and avoid walking during Museo Vivo (Cabo Verde, visits
the hottest part of the day. Most by prior arrangement t 928
importantly, don’t rely on your 890 378) with typical crops
mobile phone to get you out and livestock including goats,
of trouble, as there are gaps in chickens, cows and a camel.
coverage in this remote part of They bake bread and make
the island. The English-language cheese here too. The town’s
guide produced by the biggest attraction, however, is
Ayuntamiento de San Nicolás Cactualdea Park (Carretera
de Tolentino contains more de Tocodomán, San Nicolás
information and a hikers’ map. de Tolentino. Daily: summer
10am–5pm; winter 10am–6pm;
San Nicolás de Tolentino e6), a cactus-themed botanical
The town of San Nicolás garden with more than 900
de Tolentino is the biggest varieties of cacti stretching
settlement in the Barranco de la across the hillside south of
Aldea, one of the most isolated town on the road to Mogán.
such valleys on the island. Unless there’s a bus trip in, it’s
Settlement straggles down the a peaceful and attractive spot,
barranco all the way from the and if you like what you see the
lush palms of Tocodomán in entrance fee gives a reduction
the south to Puerto de la Aldea on the price of a cactus from
on the rocky coast in the north the park’s own nurseries. There’s
and, for such an isolated spot, it’s also a large underground bodega
surprisingly animated, especially for refreshment. East of San
Nicolás de Tolentino,
a precipitous but well-
surfaced minor road
leads past a couple of
reservoirs towards the
Vega de Acusa plateau
and the centre of the
island.
Playa de la Aldea
Stoney, steeply shelving
Playa de la Aldea is one
of the few beaches in
this part of the island
C A C T U A L D E A PA R K that has facilities and
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147
settlement, the remnants
of which, the Poblado de
Caserones, can be seen a
little inland from Puerto
de la Aldea, off the Agaete
road. There were once
between 800 and 1000
homes here.
Mirador del Balcón

High above the ocean,
the Mirador del Balcón
is a pulpit-like viewing
point that rewards a stop
with some wonderful
panoramas. It’s reached
by well-made stone steps
from the small car park at
the side of the GC-200
road, an approach that
gives little hint of the truly
P L AYA D E L A A L D E A breathtaking views at the
top, extending from the
is easy to reach. It stretches jagged triangular precipices of
away from Puerto de la Aldea the Bajones de Ana to the west
– Barranco de la Aldea’s little as far as Puerto de las Nieves to
port, which has several simple the northeast. There’s usually a
fish restaurants – and has picnic van selling snacks and drinks in
tables under the trees and a the car park here.
promenade. It’s also possible
to surf here; there’s a surfing The Andén Verde
store, the Aldea Surf Shop, in From the Mirador del Balcón,
the centre of San Nicolás de the Andén Verde proper starts,
Tolentino (C/Federico Diaz a spectacular corniche that is
Bertrana 20 t 928 891 353). at times hundreds of metres
Spanish influence in this above the sea. The opening of
part of the island pre-dates the this road in 1939 ended the
conquest, since monks from isolation of the valley of La
Mallorca arrived at Playa de la Aldea and opened up a popular
Aldea as early as 1352. Even new route for tourists, though
earlier, in pre-Hispanic times, locals today would dearly like to
the Barranco de la Aldea was see it improved or replaced, as
the site of an important Canario the drive is tortuous. Hugging
The Fiesta del Charco

The Fiesta del Charco (festival of the lagoon) has survived from the times of original
Canario culture to the modern day, and remains one of the most popular festivals
on the island. It takes place on the Playa de la Aldea at 5pm on September 9 every
year, when participants jump into a saltwater lagoon and try to catch fish with their
hands. It derives from a native fishing technique known as embarbascada, which
involved using a latex poison derived from spurges to stun the fish in pools so they
could be caught by hand without difficulty.
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148
the contours of the land, the locals, it’s possible to camp or
“Green Platform” meanders go diving here, though the sea is
into steep barrancos and around rough and there are no facilities.
rocky headlands, with the sea The last 1.7 km to the beach
far below and the pines of is on foot. The neighbouring
Tamadaba high above. In winter Playa de Sotavento is rocky,
and spring the vegetation is but is a good spot for diving.
lush and green, with plenty
of cardónales and tabaibas and Agaete
a few palms at the bottom of After the long drive along the
the barrancos; in summer it is Andén Verde the dazzling white

altogether more yellow and village of Agaete appears like
dry. After rain the cliff face some Andalucian mirage. The
sometimes glitters with short- centre of an agricultural district
lived waterfalls. After 11km you that has slowly started to sprawl
reach the tiny, whitewashed since the GC-2 north coast road
village of El Risco, in the was improved, it’s an attractive
barranco of the same name, place, though one where it’s
where a roadside bar has drinks almost impossible to park in the
and meals, and a dirt track leads narrow central streets – the only
down to the Playa del Risco, a car park is close to the Huerto
wide beach of sand and pebbles de las Flores garden. There were
pounded by the Atlantic surf. important settlements here
A little to the north, just before before the Spanish came, when
the Barranco de la Palma, the area formed part of the
another dirt track - impassable Canario kingdom of Gáldar. A
by car – leads down to the even fort was established on the coast
wilder Playa de Farenoque nearby during the conquest in
a virtually deserted black- 1480, and the current village
sand beach. A few kilometres was founded in 1515. After the
further on a dirt track leads conquest, Agaete grew fat on
partway down the Barranco sugar and later on cochineal
de Guayedra towards another production and tomatoes. The
black-sand stretch, the Playa dominant feature of the town
de Guayedra. Popular with is the high dome of the church
AGAETE
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149
Bajada de la Rama
Like La Aldea, Agaete celebrates an annual festival of pre-Hispanic origin, the
Bajada de la Rama – the festival of the tree branch. Every year on August 4 the
people of Agaete process down to the sea swinging pine branches taken from the
forests of the district. The parade is headed by the papagüevos – giant effigies in
cardboard representing popular characters of the town, who clear a way through
the crowds using their giant hands. The festival has its origins in a rain dance
performed by the Canarios.

of La Concepción, built in for a leisurely lunch by the sea
the late nineteenth century and – fish restaurants line the beach
fronting the main square, the and harbour.
Plaza de la Constitución. Next Puerto de las Nieves’ most
to the square an impressively famous landmark is the Dedo
long stone bridge crosses the de Dios (Finger of God), a
usually dry barranco, while, just slim hand-shaped stack of rock
to the east, the Huerto de las that rises out of the sea a little
Flores botanical garden (Mon– to the south of the town and
Fri 9am–1pm; free) is a lush, which, depending on the light
if compact, oasis, with many conditions, can be rather hard to
splendid mature specimens of make out against the backdrop
subtropical plants, including of cliffs. It lost much of its
flamboyant date palms and distinctiveness in a hurricane in
bougainvillea. December 2005, when the most
slender part of the stack broke
Puerto de las Nieves off during the storm. Almost
Though it’s not quite the sleepy immediately afterwards, voices
spot it once was, Puerto de las were raised in the island’s media
Nieves remains the most perfect calling for the rock’s pinnacle to
fishing village on Gran Canaria, be reinstated.
a compact little grid of streets
leading down to a harbour and a
sheltered pebble and sand beach,
from where there are stunning
views south along the Andén
Verde. It was the port used by
the Spanish conquistadors for
their assault on the Canario king
Guanarteme in his capital of
Gáldar. Later, the town profited
from the sugar trade with
Holland, which is how a famous
Flemish triptych, The Virgin of
the Snows, came to be brought
back from Flanders. Thankfully,
the town has never quite become
an outright resort, retaining the
feel of a working port and acting
as the departure point for fast
ferries linking Gran Canaria to
Tenerife. It’s also one of the most
popular places in Gran Canaria PUERTO DE LAS NIEVES
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150
Getting to Tenerife
A pair of fast ferries operated by Fred Olsen Express (t 902 100 107, W www.
fredolsen.es) maintain a shuttle service between Puerto de las Nieves and Santa
Cruz de Tenerife daily from 6.30am to 8.30pm with 8 sailings in each direction,
making a day trip to Tenerife feasible, if not particularly cheap. The crossing takes
approximately one hour. Return fare for an adult is e61.74; the cost for a car and
two passengers is e180.40 return. A free bus to the ferry terminal departs from
the Fred Olsen offices at Parque Santa Catalina in Las Palmas one hour before the
advertised sailing time.
The tiny Ermita de las situated cave village of El

Nieves is its main architectural Hornillo. Beyond this, paths
monument, a much-restored continue deeper inland into this
church that dates back in lovely unspoilt valley landscape,
part to the sixteenth century, past more cave dwellings and
though its layout is the result the reservoir of Los Pérez to
of later rebuilding, and the Lugarejos, where a path crosses
facade and towers were added the dam across the Embalse de
in the nineteenth century. The Lugarejos. Keen walkers can
sixteenth-century Flemish ascend to the pine forests of
altarpiece of the Virgin of the Tamadaba on this path (see
Snows, attributed to Joos Van p.108).
Cleve and for which the church
was famous, is now kept at the
parochial church in Agaete and Hotels
is not on public view. Down
on the seafront, which seems Los Cascajos
be constantly undergoing C/Los Cascajos 9, San Nicolás de
reconstruction, there’s a Tolentino t928 891 165, f928 890
picturesque windmill. 901.In a part of the island where
any accommodation – much
Barranco de Agaete less budget accommodation – is
Despite creeping scarce, the bright, cheerful and
suburbanization on its lower reasonably priced Los Cascajos
slopes, the Barranco de Agaete is a godsend. The single or
remains one of the most lush double rooms – all with en-
and productive valleys on Gran suite bathrooms – are simple but
Canaria, its crops including clean and comfortable, and the
coffee, mangoes, papayas and friendly owner also rents out
oranges. Higher up the valley, pleasant, sunny one- or two-bed
the hillsides close in around apartments that sleep 3–4. e40
the abandoned former spa of
Los Berrazales, shuttered Princesa Guayarmina
and peeling romantically on a Los Berrazales t928 898 009,
superbly scenic site. Immediately wwww.princesaguayarmina.net.
above it sits the Princesa This charming, rather old-
Guayarmina hotel. The road ends fashioned hotel stands just up
a little over 1km further on from the now-defunct spa at
at El Sao, from where ancient Los Berrazales, an idyllic spot
caminos reales (cross-country hemmed in by hills at the top
paths) allow access on foot to of the lush Barranco de Agaete.
the peaceful and picturesquely The ambience and decor
Contents Places
151
are reminiscent of the 1940s, restaurant and the hotel has
particularly in the art deco bar. private parking. There’s also a
Rooms are big, simple and hydrotherapy centre with heated
attractive – not luxurious, but indoor pool, waterfalls, saunas, a
comfortable and airy. Bathrooms gym and a Turkish bath. e96.
are smart and modern. There’s a
swimming pool, and the hotel
offers hydrotherapy, hydro- Restaurants
massage and various beauty
treatments too. e60. El Oliver

Avda de los Poetas, Puerto de
Puerto de las Nieves las Nieves t928 886 179. Daily
Avda Alcalde José de Armas, Puerto 10am–8pm El Oliver is as good
de las Nieves t928 886 256, a place as any to savour the
wwww.hotelpuertodelasnieves.net. quintessential Puerto de las
Bright, modern decor with Nieves experience – wonderful
a nautical theme and several fresh fish enjoyed on a simple
modern artworks in the public outdoor terrace with a view
areas make this sophisticated of the beach, harbour and the
little hotel an urbane surprise rugged cliffs beyond. They serve
close to the centre of Puerto superb grilled sardines plus more
de las Nieves. All rooms are adventurous fare, including, on
soundproofed and have air Sundays, sancocho – a stew of
conditioning, telephone and salted fish and potatoes. Prices
TV. The ground floor is are reasonable.
occupied by a café and à la carte
Contents Places
152
The north
From the banana plantations of the coast to the high
terraced hillsides of Vega de San Mateo, the north of
Gran Canaria is intensively exploited for agriculture and,
away from the rocky coast, well watered and lush. This
part of the island is densely populated and rich in rel-
ics from the pre-Hispanic and colonial eras alike, with
The north P L A C ES
impressive archeological sites at La Guancha and the

Cueva Pintada, and several lovely historic towns, nota-
bly Teror, Santa Maria de Guía and Arucas. There’s great
natural beauty too, including the awesome natural bowl
of the Caldera de Bandama and the precious laurel for-
ests of Moya. The coast here is wild and rocky and pop-
ular with surfers, but a few sheltered coves are good for
sunbathing and for excellent seafood from beachside
restaurants. The north offers plenty of opportunities to
sample typical island produce, from the small, sweet
Canarian banana to the queso de flor cheese of Santa
Maria de Guía, the wine of Monte Lentiscal, gofio from
Firgas and Arucas’ celebrated rum.
Sardina del Norte beach of Sardina del Norte.

Brightly-painted luxury homes The smart, well-kept beach
colonize the clifftops of the is patronized by locals rather
west-facing fishing harbour and than tourists, and is one of the
Getting around and information

From Las Palmas bus routes #103 and #105 run the length of the north coast,
stopping at Bañaderos and San Andres before serving Santa Maria de Guía and
Gáldar; routes #116 and #117 serve Moya. Bus #216 goes to Teror. To reach Arucas
and Firgas, take the #204. Other routes spread out from Arucas and Gáldar. The
GC-2 coast road is excellent, if congested at times, but elsewhere the roads, while
well surfaced, are inevitably twisting due to the steep terrain and are often busy
too. The larger towns have tourist offices: Gáldar’s is in the Casas Consistorales
(Plaza de Santiago 1 t 928 895 855; July & August Mon–Fri 8am–1.30pm,
Sept–June Mon–Fri 8am–2.30pm), and Santa Maria de Guía’s in the Casa de la
Cultura (C/Canónigo Gordillo 22; Mon–Thurs 8am–3pm, Friday 8am–2pm). Teror’s
is at Casa de la Huerta 1 (t 928 613 808, w www.teror.es; July–September
9.30am–3.30pm, Oct–June 9.30am–4.30pm) and Moya’s at C/Juan Delgado 6
(t 928 612 348, w www.villademoya.com; Mon–Fri 9.30am–12.30pm) In Arucas,
it’s at Plaza de Constitución 2 (t 928 623 136, w www.arucasturismo.com;
Mon–Fri 8am–4pm) and in Firgas at C/El Molino 12 (t 928 616 747; June–Sept
Mon–Fri 8am–2pm, Oct–May Mon–Fri 8am–3pm). In Santa Brigida, the office is on
the main traffic intersection at C/18 de Julio (w www.santabrigida.es; June–Sept
Mon–Fri 8am–2pm, Oct–May 8am–3pm).
Contents Places
153
most popular
in the north
of the island,
partly thanks
to its smooth
sands and the
possibility of
windsurfing,
sailing and
diving, but
P L A C ES The north
also because
it’s a sheltered
beach on an SARDINA
often rough
coast, and a real suntrap. In important archeological sites
addition to the curve of sand, in the whole archipelago, the
there are rocks and jetties to Poblado de El Agujero, a
swim from. The town is also a pre-Hispanic settlement, and the
popular spot to eat fresh fish, settlement’s burial ground, La
and there are several restaurants Guancha (guided visits only;
dotted around the bay. North of call t 928 219 421 ext.4441 for
Sardina, residential development information or enquire at the
continues along the coast tourist office in Gáldar). Sitting
towards the lighthouse at Punta in the shadow of the Montaña
de Sardina, where the north and de Gáldar and looking across
west coasts meet. to Mount Teide on Tenerife
– a location that may have had
Playa de Bocabarranco spiritual significance – the site’s
East of the lighthouse at Punta centrepiece is the Túmolo de La
de Sardina the coast is wild, with Guancha, the most important
swimming in natural rock pools pre-Hispanic necropolis in the
rather than the rough open Canary Islands, a large dry-stone
sea at El Clavo. Further east, structure built in concentric
Playa de Bocabarranco is the circles and containing 42
largest beach in this corner of tombs. The complex is fenced
the island, a broad strip of good off (but visible) between a
sand pounded by rough surf and modern housing development
backed by banana plantations and the sea: the rocky beach of
and scrappy-looking houses, El Agujero in front of it has a
though moves are underway seawater pool and is backed by a
to smarten things up with a traffic-free promenade.
new promenade. There are also
the remains of a few circular Gáldar
stone dwellings dating from Nestling under an ominous but
pre-Hispanic times just a little extinct volcano and surrounded
way back from the beach across by banana plantations,
the coast road, and a few more Gáldar was the capital of the
further down the road to Gáldar. guanartemato (kingdom) of
Gáldar in pre-Hispanic times,
Poblado de El Agujero and La and even today remains an
Guancha important place – much the
The northern coast of Gran largest and liveliest town in
Canaria holds one of the most this area of the island, with a
Contents Places
154
Punta de Playa de
Sardina Bocabarranco
El Clavo
La Guancha
1
Sardina del Norte Casa Museo
Antonio Padrón
Gáldar
GC-202
GC-2
Cueva Pintada Cenobio

Santa Maria de Valerón
de Guía
GC-70
GC-700
GC-70
GC-220
Agaete
Los Tilos
de Moya
GC-200
GC-710
PARQUE NATURAL GC-75
DE TAMADABA
Tamadaba
(1444m) GC-70
GC-216
GC-21
EATING & DRINKING
GC-21
El Puertillo 2
La Bodeguita del Monte 4 GC-150
La Chimenea 3
GC-210
La Fragata 1
ACCOMMODATION
Hotel-Escuela Santa Brigida A
Embalse
Hotel de
Golf Bandama B
El Parallilo
Hotel Rural Las Calas C Tejeda
0 2 km
traffic problem matched only street. It ends at the Plaza de

by the nightmarish parking. Santiago, dominated by the
Beyond the jams on the road church of Santiago de Gáldar,
through the town, however, unusually large and lofty by
lies an attractive and historic Gran Canarian standards, and
core, reached along C/Capitán the first Neoclassical building
Quesada, the main shopping in the islands. Construction
Contents Places
155
THE NORTH
ATLANTIC OCEAN
N
El Puertillo 2
El Roque
Bañaderos
San Andrés
GC-20
GC-331 GC-330
GC-75 GC-2
GC-300 Montaña de
Las Palmas
Arucas
GC-301
Moya
GC-350 Arucas
GC-300
GC-43
Firgas
Visvique
3
GC-30 GC-21 GC-308 GC-310

Finca de
Osorio GC-211
GC-361
GC-100
Teror Tafira Alta
Valleseco Monte Lentiscal
A
4
IIII
Santa Brigida B
III
III
I II
GC-151
Caldera de
La Atalaya Bandama
GC-15
GC-42
La Lechuza
Vega de San Mateo
C
Las GC-41
Lagunetas
Vaisequillo de
Tenteniguada Gran Canaria
began in 1778 and the church e2), which houses a collection

was consecrated in 1826. At of religious art, including
the side of the church there’s a green baptismal font of
a small museum, the Museo Andalucian origin dating from
Arte Sacro (C/Fernando the fifteenth century. Across the
Guanarteme 2; Tues–Fri 10am– square, the lovely nineteenth-
4pm Sat & Sun 10am–1pm; century Casas Consistorales
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156
now houses the tourist office. Canaria’s pre-Hispanic sites.
Its patio is dominated by one The complex, discovered in the
of the oldest drago trees on late nineteenth century, abuts
Gran Canaria, with a history the modern town centre and
documented back as far as 1718. the paintings here are some of
Tucked down C/Tagoror at the the best surviving examples
side of the Casas Consistorales of Canario art. The cave was
is Gáldar’s imposing theatre, excavated by the Canarios
which dates from 1912. On from the soft volcanic rock and
the opposite side of the Plaza painted with typically vibrant
de Santiago from the Casas geometric patterns in red and

Consistorales, and beyond the white. The cave’s exact purpose
handsome nineteenth-century is unclear; various theories
casino, a side street leads to suggest it may have been used
the Casa Museo Antonio for funeral rites, as a sacred space
Padrón (C/Drago 2; Mon–Fri or as a dwelling. The Cueva
9am–2pm; free) a delightful Pintada itself is part of a series
little art gallery dedicated to of six caves; the wider complex
the work of Antonio Padrón, includes sections of the pre-
an expressionist painter whose Hispanic town of Agaldar and
work made use of Canarian reconstructions of pre-Hispanic
folk tradition, myths and scenes country houses. Unfortunately
of everyday life and whose humidity generated by
studio this building once was. visitors and damage caused by
His woodcuts are gorgeously agricultural irrigation in the
graphic, and his paintings use district forced the closure of
the warm colours characteristic the cave to visitors in 1982.
of Canarian soil. Gáldar’s most However, after years of patient
important attraction is the conservation work and the
Cueva Pintada (painted cave; erection of an impressive new
C/Audencia 2 t 928 895 746, museum, the complex was
w www.cuevapintada.org), one scheduled to re-open as this
of the most significant of Gran book went to press.
Santa Maria de Guía

One of the loveliest colonial
towns in Gran Canaria,
Santa Maria de Guía is also,
appropriately enough, the
birthplace of the distinguished
Canarian sculptor and architect
José Pérez Lujan, known as
Lujan Pérez, who was born in
1756. The town’s casco histórico is
dominated by a particularly fine
example of his work, the church
of Santa Maria de Guía.
Construction began in 1780
and was completed in 1836, and
the church contains examples
of his artwork, though it’s
generally locked except during
GÁLDAR TREE mass. The centre of the town is
Contents Places
157
associated with the banana
industry, and the local word
naife – meaning knife – derives
from the English, a reminder of
the role British merchants once
played in the commercial life
of the island. The town’s other
claim to fame is as the home of
queso de flor, Gran Canaria’s most
renowned cheese. Flavoured
with the juice of artichokes, it’s
readily available in local shops
and celebrated by a fussily
ornamental monument at the
foot of C/Médico Estevez.
Cenobio de Valerón
GC-291 km 21 Cuesta de Silva, usually
S A N TA M A R I A B A L C O N Y Wed–Sun 10am–5pm. About 3km
east of Santa Maria de Guía
reached up the steep C/Médico on the old Las Palmas-Gáldar
Estevez from the rather grim road, high above the coast, the
main road; the entire historic Cenobio de Valerón is perhaps
core was declared a national the most visually impressive
monument in 1982, and it’s of all pre-Hispanic sites in the
easy to see why, for there are island. A vast fortified communal
no eyesores in its pretty, tranquil granary hewn out of the rocky
streets. On the plaza opposite hillside and overshadowed by
the church the Espacio Guía a massive sheltering rock brow,
art gallery (C/Marqués de Muni there are more than 350 caves,
7, Plaza de Santa Maria de Guía; chambers, cavities and silos
Thurs–Sat 6–9pm, Sun 11am– on various levels here, all used
2pm; free; w www.insulart. for the storage of grain. It was
com) is housed in a handsome closed for conservation in 2005,
old house and has interesting, but was scheduled to reopen as
frequently changing exhibitions this book went to press.
of contemporary art, often by
Canarian artists. At no. 3 Plaza Playa de San Felipe
Grande, the seventeenth-century From the strange coastal village
Quintana house has a venerable, of El Roque, which looks like
sagging, wooden balcony in a multicoloured fortress atop
Canarian Mudéjar style. An its basalt spur jutting out into
enjoyable and well-marked the Atlantic surf, a road leads
trail – with informative boards along the coast – known here
in English – leads uphill from as El Vagabundo – to the single
the plaza to the little chapel of street village of San Felipe,
Ermita San Roque. The houses which stands at the mouth of an
are painted in all manner of eponymous barranco. The Playa de
ice cream colours, and the San Felipe is a surfing hotspot, a
streets are as peaceful as they broad beach of sand and pebbles
are beautiful. Santa Maria de on which the Atlantic rollers
Guía was traditionally a centre break dramatically. It’s popular
of knife making, a trade closely at weekends – when it can be
Contents Places
158
difficult to park here – and Los Tilos de Moya
there are one or two cafés for Just 2.5km southwest of Moya
refreshments. is one of the most important
natural sites on the island, the
Moya special nature reserve of Los
Sitting on the rim of a deep, Tilos de Moya. This is one
green barranco high above the of the last remaining forests
north coast, Moya is a pleasantly of humid laurel or laurasilva
old-fashioned upland town anywhere in the world, and the
with a main street lined with trees look appropriately old and
bars full of old men, and a large, gnarled. The reserve comprises
rather self-important modern the narrow barrancos of Los
church, Nuestra Señora de Tilos and El Laurel, and has,
la Candelaria, which despite at its entrance, a small Centro
its neo-Canarian architecture de Interpretación (Mon–Fri
dates only from 1957. The site 9am–1pm; free), behind which
of the church rather than its a rather pointless show path
conservative architecture is the leads through stands of bamboo
most interesting thing about a scant 100m or so into the
it, however, as it stands on the woods. You’ll see the laurels far
edge of a dramatic precipice more clearly from the single-
overlooking the stunning track road through the barranco,
Barranco de Moya. Moya’s most though be warned, it’s busy.
famous son is commemorated
opposite the church in the Firgas
Casa Museo Tomás Morales Best known as the source of
(Plaza de Tomás Morales t 928 the mineral water drunk all
620 217, w www.tomasmorales. over the island, Firgas is, like
com; Mon–Fri 9am–8pm, Sat Moya, a pleasant little upland
10am–2pm & 5–8pm, Sun town, which might barely
10am–2pm; free), a likeable register on the tourist trail but
small museum dedicated to for the conversion in 1985 of
the modernist poet Tomás its steeply sloping main street
Morales, who was born here into twin attractions, the Paseo
in 1884. On the ground floor de Gran Canaria and the
there’s a space for temporary Paseo Canaria. The former
exhibitions, but upstairs the is a 30-metre long fountain,
museum charts the life of the fringed by flowerbeds and by
poet, through paintings, books benches covered in brightly
and artefacts, including some coloured azulejos tiles with
solidly bourgeois nineteenth- the framed crests of all the
century furniture and some municipalities of the island
racy paintings by José Hurtado on the wall behind them. The
de Mendoza. Behind the Paseo Canaria, which is the
museum, in C/Léon y Castillo, uphill continuation of the
is Moya’s most imposing public Paseo de Gran Canaria is a
building, the Neoclassical series of large-scale relief maps
Heredad de Aguas which, of each of the Canary Islands
with its clocktower and classical laid out on the ground in what
columns, looks a little like a was formerly the roadway.
chapel, though it was actually Around the corner from all this
built as the offices of the in C/El Molino, next to the
irrigation association. tourist office, is the Molino de
Contents Places
159
Gofio or gofio mill (Mon–Fri Arucas
11am–2pm; free). The water- Surrounded by lush banana
powered mill was built in 1517 plantations and graceful
to meet the needs of the local haciendas, Arucas is a handsome
community, and continued old town. Its lovely casco histórico
in uninterrupted operation has an air of stately repose and is
until 1959. It was restored and dominated by two great masses
reopened in 1998, and if you of volcanic stone. The larger,
ask in the tourist office they’ll the Montaña de Arucas, is
demonstrate it for you. You a volcanic cone, with a road
can also buy gofio made here at that spirals up to a mirador,
the mill. Recrossing the Paseo from where there’s a splendid
de Gran Canaria and entering view of Arucas and the north
C/18 de Julio, there are fine of the island. The smaller of
views down to the coast from the two masses of stone, the
between the ayuntamiento and Iglesia de San Juan Bautista
the rather simple nineteenth- (Mon–Fri 9.30am–12.30pm &
century church of San Roque. 4.30–5.15pm), sits at the foot
At the end of the street a of the volcano, its pinnacles
scenic footpath leads into the soaring like Neogothic space
Barranco de Azuaje, with views rockets above the surrounding
that encompass high meadows houses of the casco histórico. Work
and the sheer cliffs far below. A started in 1909 to replace an
long-distance path follows the earlier structure dating from
barranco all the way down to 1515 and it was consecrated in
the coast. 1917 – though work on the bell
tower didn’t finish until 1977.
There’s a degree of modernismo
Montaña de Arucas
ALCAL
DE
RAF
AEL
ARUCAS DIA
DOCTOR FLEMIN G
Z
N
CE
RE
A RA
SO
R CA
ND
Jardin de la AC IDA
EQ SU
Marquesa
FRANCISC O PON
UIA AR
AL
AS
EZ
TA
M
AR
A
DR
PA
BARRANQUILLO
E
NO
Fábrica
RE
MO
del Ron GC-330

Parque EZ
GALDOS
PER
N
Municipal
JUA
GC-330 LA HEREDA D Casa

FRANCISC
O GOURIE Museo
del Cura
Z PITI
EL CERR
ILLO Heredad de Agua 1 Municipal
LE
RANBERT-
ON
A. F. FERRERA ROSALES
HENRIQUE
DIA F.
A
YC
SA
BRUNO PE
AS
ACCOMMODATION REZ ALC

T IL
MEDINA ALD
LO
Hacienda del ES GOURIE Iglesia de

OSARIO
ALCALDE
JUA UA Casa LEO

ND REZ San Juan
Buen Suceso A EB
ETH de la N Y CA
ENC ST Bautista
EATING OU
RD
Cultura ILL
AVE
O
NID OM
La Bodega de AVE
N IDA
A EL M
ING
UEZ
Cornelio 1 AGU
STIN
IRO
N GC-300
MIL
LAR
ES
CAR
LO
BAR
RAN
0 100 m CO
DE GC-43
ARUCA
S
Contents Places
160
in the design. The interior is C/Heredad, stands the almost
surprisingly restrained, with comically dignified Heredad
a forest of pillars flooded de Agua – the headquarters
with light from the huge rose of the local water company –
windows. Diagonally opposite completed in 1912 and topped
the church door stands the low, with a splendid cupola. It’s only
whitewashed Casa del Cura a few metres’ walk from here to
or priest’s house, which dates the Fabrica del Ron (t 928
from the seventeenth century. 932 900, w www.arehucas.
The church and house face com; Mon–Fri 10am–2pm;
onto the dignified Plaza de San July & Aug closes 1pm; free),
Juan, once the hub of the town the imposing late nineteenth-
but now rather sleepy. From the century distillery where the
west door of the church, narrow island’s most famous rum is
C/Gourié slices through the produced. The factory opened
town, its tall houses decorated in 1884 to process sugar cane
with iron balconies. At its from the island’s plantations, but
junction with C/Léon y Castillo really blossomed in the 1940s
the local library is housed in the when the Arehucas Rum brand
Casa de la Cultura, a grand was created. The tour takes in an
seventeenth-century house with interesting museum, the bottling
a lovely internal patio that can plant – capable of filling 32,000
be seen during opening hours bottles an hour – and last, but
(Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 4–9pm, not least, the tasting room.
July & Aug closes 8pm). Arucas’ Below the distillery one of the
other main focus is the Plaza de grandest of the many stately
la Constitución, around which old houses on the GC-330 is
are grouped the old town hall, the Palacete de la Marquesa de
covered market and Museo Arucas, a stone mansion dating
Municipal (Mon–Fri 10am– from 1880 that is the seat of
7.30pm, Sat 10.30am–1pm; the oldest estate in the Canary
free), exhibiting paintings and Islands. Its garden, the Jardín de
sculptures by Canarian artists. la Marquesa (Mon–Fri 9am–
The museum stands in the noon & 2–6pm; e5), contains
Parque Municipal, a neatly more than 2500 tropical and
manicured public park shaded subtropical species – including
by palms, dracaenas, Canary some now extinct elsewhere
pines and banana plants. Along – and is both decorative and
the park’s southern edge, on informative, thanks to the
booklet
you receive
for your
admission
fee. At its
centre there’s
a pool with a
topographical
map of the
island and a
very pretty
Japanese
pavilion.
A R U C A S C AT H E D R A L
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161
EL PUERTILLO
El Puertillo and San Andres 1600. The current church was

The district of Arucas reaches designed in 1760 by Colonel
the sea just beyond the barrio Antonio de la Rocha, who also
of Bañaderos, where a side designed the Hospital de San
turning takes you to the little Martín in Las Palmas. The poor
cove of El Puertillo a sheltered soil has created problems ever
bay with a sandy beach, a since, however, and the church
smart new promenade and a underwent major repairs in
fish restaurant overlooking the the nineteenth and twentieth
beach. Further west, the seafront centuries. Inside, it’s unusually
suburbs of Quintanilla and San ornate for a Canarian church,
Andres are strung out along and there are five altarpieces,
the sea road, which is dotted dating from 1767–83. The
here and there with huge fish statue of the Virgin of the Pine
restaurants. The coast here is a is displayed in a side room.
surfers’ haunt, and the rough There’s a tradition of dressing
Atlantic spray sometimes spatters the Virgin in gorgeous robes
car windscreens on the coast which dates back to 1558;
road. the statue itself was probably
brought from Seville at the
Teror end of the fifteenth century.
It was an apparition of the Outside, Plaza del Pino is
Virgin Mary atop a pine tree the town’s main square, and
some time during the fifteenth the houses here and in C/Real
century that turned Teror de la Plaza leading off it have
into a place of pilgrimage and beautiful wooden balconies
to this day the little town is that contribute strongly to the
dominated by the basilica of town’s reputation as one of
Nuestra Señora del Pino Gran Canaria’s prettiest. One of
(Plaza Nuestra Señora del the finest of these houses dates
Pino; Tues–Fri 9am–1pm & 3– from the seventeenth century
8.30pm, Sat 9am–8.30pm, Sun and houses the Patronos de la
7.30am–7.30pm; free, e1.50 Virgen folk museum (Mon–Fri
to side room). The first, simple 11am–6pm, Sun 10am–2pm,
chapel on the site was built closed Sat; e3). On the far side
in 1514, but the poor clay on of the Plaza del Pino from the
which it was constructed meant basilica is the beautiful Plaza
it had to be replaced as early as Teresa de Bolívar, a garden
Contents Places
162
Valleseco
Valleseco or
“dry valley” is
actually a bit of a
misnomer for an
area that stands
at an altitude
of 900m, and
is a particularly
well-watered
spot. Once part

of the laurasilva
NUESTRA SEÑORA DEL PINO, TEROR
forest of which
square named after the wife of only a few remnants remain,
the liberator of the Americas, eighty percent of the district
Simon de Bolívar, a statue of is a protected nature area,
whom adorns the square. The reflecting its importance as part
little plaza commemorates of the monteverde or evergreen
Teror’s links with the Americas, zone. The village itself is fairly
since Teresa’s great-grandfather diminutive, grouped around a
was born in the town. Behind leafy plaza on which stands the
the basilica, the rather stiff church of San Vincente Ferrer,
but dignified Plaza Pio XII gloomy but rather fine inside,
contains the bishop’s palace, now with a simple dome, gothic
a cultural centre. Every Sunday altar and an eighteenth-century
(8am–2pm) the main streets of German organ sitting on an
Teror close to traffic for a very elaborately carved balcony. A
popular market, where you can walking trail follows an ancient
buy food, clothes, arts and crafts. camino real from Valleseco to
A short distance north of the Cruz de Tejeda in the centre
town on the Arucas road stands of the island; along the way it
the Finca de Osorio (t 928 passes the site of one of the
630 090), a wonderful nature island’s more recent eruptions,
education centre standing in around 3000 years ago.
extensive grounds that stretch
away from the main road Vega de San Mateo
towards the Pico de Osorio With the high mountain
and which contain woodland ramparts of the island’s centre
and laurel as well as agricultural for a backdrop the setting of
land. It’s only open to organized the town of Vega de San Mateo
groups and visits must be could hardly be more dramatic.
booked in advance. Agricultural terraces scale the
slopes above the town almost all
Fiesta of Nuestra Señora del Piño

Teror’s liveliest festival and Gran Canaria’s largest religious procession takes place
in the town on September 7 every year, when each of the island’s towns makes
offerings of its finest produce to the Virgin of the Pine, the patron saint of the dio-
cese of the Canary Islands whose Saint’s Day is September 8. The festivities stretch
from mid-August through to late September, and in addition to the religious focus
there are football matches and musical performances to keep the festival going.
Contents Places
163
the way to Cruz de Tejeda, so with a large chunk of its centre
that despite the savage terrain taken over by a new shopping
the signs of cultivation and of centre and not much in the
civilization are everywhere, in way of historic architecture.
the picturesque houses dotted What it does have is the
among the terraces and in the Cabildo de Gran Canaria’s
profusion of eucalyptus and Casa de Vino (t 928 644 272;
pelargonium at the roadside. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun
The town is a fairly low-key 10am–3pm) in the old Finca
place, lacking the polish of the el Galéon close to the tourist
affluent commuter communities office – where you can taste
around Santa Brigida to the local wines – and three bodegas
north but with a couple of of the Monte Lentiscal
streets of old houses leading up denominación de origen to visit:
to the simple parish church. This the Bodega Vandama (Carretera
is wine-growing country, and de Bandama 116 t 639 546
you may spot the local product 699; Mon–Fri 10am–6pm), the
on sale in the town’s cafés; the Bodega Mocanal (Carretera de
area is part of the denominación Bandama 68 t 928 350 970;
de origen of Gran Canaria. It’s Mon–Fri 10am–6pm & Sat
also from the district of Vega de 10am–3pm) and the Bodega
San Mateo that the Barranco Mondalón (Cuesta Mondalón
de la Mina water course that 8, Los Hoyos t 928 356 066; by
eventually leads down to the appointment only). Continue
Guiniguada in Las Palmas starts. along the Bandama road past
The barranco got its name (valley the wineries and you come to
of the mine) because water has the Real Club de Golf de Las
for centuries been diverted here Palmas, the oldest established
from the basin of Tejeda. There in Spain, situated on the edge
are remnants of laurel forests of an extraordinary abyss, the
and of old water mills, and Caldera de Bandama. The
it’s a pleasant place for a walk caldera is an extinct volcanic
– the municipality is crossed by crater, its volcanic form still
ancient caminos reales. quite plain, the upper slopes
cliff-like but its floor gentle
Santa Brigida and green. It’s 1km in diameter
At Santa Brigida Las Palmas’ and 200m deep. A footpath
commuter belt starts in earnest. circles the rim of the crater, and
This is a very affluent corner of another descends to the crater
the island, as
even cursory
inspection of
the desirable
homes lining
the main road
north all the
way down to
Tafira Alta
demonstrates.
Santa Brigida
itself is bustling
but rather
characterless, VA L L E S E C O
Contents Places
164
The wines of Gran Canaria
The first vines were introduced to the Canary Islands by the Spanish in the fifteenth
century, and by the middle of the sixteenth century Malvasia (known in English as
Malmsey) and Canaries wines were being exported to northern Europe – Shake-
speare made mention of Canary wine more than once. The trade declined through
the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, but in recent years has seen a revival.
There are two peculiarities of Canarian wine: first, the island’s wide diversity of
microclimates means the same grape variety can produce very different results
on different sites; and second, the island’s vines were introduced before the phyl-
loxera plague that devastated Europe’s vines in the nineteenth century so that
vines can be cultivated in Gran Canaria without grafting. There are currently two
denominaciónes de origen on the island, Monte Lentiscal – which covers a com-
pact area around Santa Brigida – and Gran Canaria, which essentially covers the
rest of the island, including the bodegas in Vega de San Mateo, Telde and Fataga.
Both reds and whites are highly drinkable; chief grape varieties are common black,
negramoll, tintilla, white muscatel, malvasia and white listan.
floor, which was once farmed. Jardín Canario Viera y Clavijo

The northern wall of the crater On the GC-100 at Tafira Alta. Daily
contains the Cueva de los 9am–6pm. wwww.step.es/jardcan.
Canarios, a pre-Hispanic grain The Jardín Canario, founded in
store. A vertigo-inducing road 1952 by the Swedish botanist
spirals up the adjacent Pico Eric Sventenius, is laid out
de Bandama to a car park and across the steep side and wide
mirador, which gives impressive floor of a barranco between
views over Las Palmas and the Las Palmas and Santa Brigida.
island’s northeast. From the golf This extensive botanical
club, the GC-802 road climbs garden contains sections on
past opulent villas to the hilltop all the island’s major climatic
village of La Atalaya, since zones and plant types, from
pre-Hispanic times a centre for the dragon tree walk and
pottery production, a tradition laurasilva to Canary pine forest
continued in the Centro and coastal vegetation. The
Locero (Camino de la Picota cacti are particularly stunning,
11, La Atalaya t 928 288 270; and there are also non-native
Mon–Fri 9am–2pm & 5–9pm, plants that are nevertheless
Sat 10am–2pm), signposted common in the island, including
off the main street. Here you bottlebrush, frangipan, hibiscus,
can see potters using age-old oleander and bougainvillea. The
methods and buy the results, Jardín Canario is rather badly
with unglazed bowls starting at signposted off the southbound
about e6. carriageway of the GC-100 –
The World Biosphere Reserve

Gran Canaria was declared a World Biosphere Reserve by Unesco in 2005 in
recognition of its unusually rich ecosystems. The remoteness of the Canary Islands
means that many plants and species survive here that have long since become
extinct in more accessible parts of the world. The island also has its own rich store
of indigenous plants: more than 100 species are found only on Gran Canaria. That,
plus the island’s sheer diversity of landscapes and climates means the raw mate-
rial for a botanical garden is unusually rich.
Contents Places
165
watch out for the sign directing
you to the garden’s restaurant.
The lower entrance is on the
Carretera de Almatriche.
Hotels
Hotel-Escuela Santa Brigida
C/Real de Coello 2, Santa Brigida
t828 010 414, wwww.hecansa.
com. Smart business and tourist
hotel in lush gardens in Monte
Lentiscal, one of the island’s
smartest residential districts. The
ambience is calm and upmarket,
and rooms – some with balcony
or terrace – are spacious and
smart in a conservative modern
style. All the features of a
business hotel are here – trouser H O T E L - E S C U E L A S A N TA B R I G I D A
press, Internet access, laundry

service, minibar – but with one 1, Arucas t928 622 945, wwww.
major difference: the Hotel- haciendabuensuceso.com. Tucked
Escuela is also a school, so that away on an idyllic banana
the chefs, waiters, receptionists plantation at the end of a long
and other staff tending to your avenue of bougainvillea, the
needs are hotel and catering Hacienda del Buen Suceso is a
students come to perfect their beautiful country house hotel
skills. e84. set in the buildings of the oldest
estate in the Canary Islands,
Golf Bandama which dates from 1572. Rooms
Lugar de Bandama, Santa Brigida open onto a stone veranda or
t928 351 538, wwww.bandamagolf. galleried balcony, have lofty
com. This pleasant hotel, closely wooden ceilings, exposed
associated with Spain’s oldest stonework and a stylish blend
golf club, stands on the rim of modern and traditional
of what must be the most decor, including a few canopy
extraordinary bunker in the beds. The pool juts out into
world – the 200-metre deep the banana fields, there’s a
Caldera de Bandama. There’s a small health suite with hot tub
country club feel to the place; and gym equipment, plus a
facilities include an open-air restaurant and bar and a stylish
pool, tennis courts and a sauna, residents’ lounge. e144.
while the rooms are simple but
pretty and most have a balcony Hotel Rural Las Calas
or terrace. Some of those facing El Arenal 36, La Lechuza, Vega de
the caldera don’t, but they San Mateo t928 661 436, wwww.
compensate by having the more hotelrurallascalas.com. At this
spectacular view. e130. friendly converted country
house high in the green hills
La Hacienda del Buen Suceso above Vega de San Mateo the
Carretera de Arucas a Bañaderos km rooms fringe a pretty garden of
Contents Places
166
lavender, white hydrangeas and 10am–5pm. Right on the main
eucalyptus. In keeping with the square in Teror, this smart but
rural surroundings, breakfasts informal café-bar serves coffee
in the low, beamy dining room and cake during the day but also
consist of fresh bread, home- stretches to full meals at around
made jams and farmhouse e20 with wine. The morcilla
cheeses and salamis. The rooms de Teror – blood sausage – is a
are large and comfortable, local speciality, served here with
decorated in rustic style with glazed onions; otherwise, try
very high ceilings and en-suite prawns al ajillo, or the crab and
bath. e86. octopus croquettes.
Casas rurales Restaurants

Casa Rural Doña Margarita El Puertillo
C/Padre Cueto 4, Teror t928 350 Paseo Marítimo del Puertillo, Bañaderos
000, wwww.margaritacasarural.com. t928 627 537. Daily 12.30pm–
A handsome, late eighteenth- midnight. Perfectly located on
century house in the historic the sandy cove of El Puertillo,
heart of Teror now divided into this restaurant is a good spot to
three, each with bedrooms, catch the sunset over Tenerife
bathroom, kitchen and large and enjoy excellent fish. The
living/dining room. e70 for gofio escaldado – a fish-stock
two sharing. based soup thickened with gofio
– is as good as you’ll find, the
grilled fish is wonderfully fresh
Cafés and they also do several rice-
based dishes. The soundtrack is
Tasca La Villa old-time salsa and the interior
Plaza Nuestra Señora del Pino 7, is jauntily nautical, but the wide
Teror t928 632 607. Tues–Thurs terrace, with its view over the
noon–8pm, Fri & Sat noon–1am, Sun beach and bay, is the place to
be. You’ll eat well for a little
over e20.
La Bodega de Cornelio
C/Francisco Gourie 9, Arucas t928
633 485. Weekdays 9am–midnight,
Fri & Sat tilll 4 or 5am. A handy
little bar opposite the Parque
Municipal in Arucas with an
outside terrace and a sunny
internal patio, La Bodega
de Cornelio is a good spot
for inexpensive tapas, with
most dishes e3.50–5. Fill
up on tortilla, grilled fish,
pimientos de padrón and bread
with pungent, garlicky alioli,
washed down with a jarra of
cool beer.
EL PUERTILLO
Contents Places
167
La Bodeguita del Monte La Fragata
Carretera General del Centro, Monte Puerto de Sardina t928 883 296.
Lentiscal t928 430 517 Mon–Thurs Tues–Sat noon–5pm & 8pm–midnight,
1–4pm & 8pm–midnight, Fri & Sat Sun noon–5pm. Big and rather
noon–1am, Sun 1–6pm. Set on a gloomy inside, but with a tiny
busy restaurant and bar strip in sunny terrace facing the bay of
a posh residential district, this Sardina, La Fragata is the swishest
buzzy wine bar is a pleasant and of the seafood restaurants on
informal spot in which to try the Sardina seafront. It’s a good
some of the local wines. Soak spot for a tapas-style lunch
up the alcohol with an eclectic – calamares, cheese, salad – or
selection of dishes including for its more elaborate specialities,
traditional ropa vieja stew, bread which include lobster with rice,
with almogrote – a spicy cheese- baked fish and fish mousse, each
based spread – or baby octopus. around e10.
Prices are reasonable at around
e30 for two with wine. Restaurant Satautey
Hotel-Escuela Santa Brigida, C/Real de
La Chimenea Coello 2, Santa Brigida t828 010 414.
Carretera General de Arucas a Teror, Mon–Sat 1.30–4pm & 8.30–11pm,
km 2, Visvique, Arucas t928 633 Sun 1.30–4pm. The Santa Brigida
193. Daily except Wed 1–4pm & 8pm– hotel-school’s restaurant is in a
midnight. This bustling steakhouse long, elegant dining room with
in an Arucas suburb pulls in big French windows fronting
an appreciative local crowd for the hotel gardens. It’s a smart
sirloin cooked various ways place to enjoy the school’s very
– with peppercorns, rocquefort, accomplished cooking, such as
mushrooms, plum sauce or deliciously sweet roast peppers
raisins and pine nuts – though and figs with mozzarella,
they also serve fish dishes and tomatoes and olive oil followed
there are Canarian specialities by magret of duck in raspberry
on the menu, including morcilla sauce or a tender tranche
de Teror – blood sausage and of Iberian pork with oyster
superb warm bread with mushrooms. Presentation is
aniseed. Decor is as cheerful as excellent too and it costs around
the service with yellow walls e25 for two courses.
and chequered tablecloths.
Contents Places
168
Contents Places
Essentials
Contents Essentials
Contents Essentials
171
Arrival
Most visitors to Gran Canaria arrive by motorway alongside the airport and not
plane though another option if coming in the terminal, it’s not suitable for travel-
ES S ENT IAL S Arrival • Information

from the Spanish mainland is to take a lers with heavy luggage. Similarly, Telde
ferry from Cádiz. is served by buses #19 and #36 (the lat-
ter hourly) and Aguïmes and Ingenio by
the hourly #11 – all of which stop on the
By plane autopista alongside the airport and not in
the terminal. There are no direct buses to
All passenger flights to the island arrive the north or west of the island from the
at the Aeropuerto de Gran Canaria at airport; take the bus to San Telmo and
Gando (t 928/579 130, w www.aena. pick up connections from there. Fares
es), just south of Telde on the east coast. are low: from the airport to Las Palmas
Regular scheduled flights by British costs e1.90; to Maspalomas, e3.30.
Airways from London Gatwick cater to Taxis are a relatively cheap alternative:
non-package visitors and to business expect to pay around e20–25 to Las
travellers, residents and expatriates, Palmas, e22 to San Agustín, e24 to
while Aer Lingus operates direct flights Playa del Inglés, e30 to Maspalomas,
from Dublin. Most holidaymakers arrive e36 to Arguineguín/Patalavaca, e40
in Gran Canaria on charter flights and to Puerto Rico, and e49 to Puerto de
have a free transfer to their hotel or Mogán.
apartment included in the price of their
package. Some tour operators, however,
offer lower prices for fewer frills, which By ferry
may mean making your own way to your
resort. The pricey alternative to flying for
For those getting to their destination those prepared to travel down through
on public transport, the bus network Europe first is the ferry from Cádiz,
is a reliable option. To Las Palmas bus operated by Trasmediterranea (w www.
#60 runs 36 times daily, taking around trasmediterranea.es). It leaves at 5pm
20min to Parque San Telmo and a further on Saturday and arrives in Las Palmas
15min to Parque Santa Catalina. For San at 8am on Monday with the return
Agustín, Playa del Inglés and Maspal- sailing on a Wednesday. The ferry takes
omas bus #66 runs 16 times daily, cars and accommodation is available
taking around 30min. Bus #1 serves in cabins. Meals are included in ticket
Puerto Rico and Puerto de Mogán from prices which can be anything upwards of
the airport, but as it stops only on the e1400 return for two adults with a car.
Information
The Cabildo Insular or Island Council research beaches and plan itineraries
(C/León y Castillo 17, Las Palmas and activities all over the island. The
t 928 219 600, w www.grancanaria. Internet information is supplemented
com; Mon–Fri 8am–3pm) promotes by free maps and booklets which make
the whole of Gran Canaria. Its excellent use of much of the same information;
website is available in English and they’re available from the Cabildo
enables you to book accommodation, Insular and many local tourist offices
Contents Essentials
172
too. Individual towns have websites of com offer useful insights into nightlife
varying quality; those of the municipality in the resorts. Popular British and Irish
of Mogán (w www.mogan.es) and of newspapers are widely available in
Maspalomas (w www.maspalomas. the resorts, either printed in the islands
com) are available in English, as is and available the same day or brought
the chief tourist site for Las Palmas, in and a day or two old. Of the locally
Accommodation ES S ENT IAL S
the Sociedad de Promoción de Las produced English-language publications,

Palmas (w www.promocionlaspalmas. the fortnightly Island Connections
com) which has interesting sections on (e1.80; w www.newscanarias.net) is a
the history, architectural monuments and local newspaper covering all the Canary
chief tourist attractions of the city. Of Islands while the also-fortnightly and free
generic commercial sites, w www.gran- Tips & Info (w www.tipsandinfo.com) is
canaria-info.com is a useful source of a small-ads based magazine and a mine
weblinks and w www.puertorico-tonight. of information on local services.
com and w www.maspalomas-tonight.
Accommodation
There’s a great deal of hotel and self- much less. The capital does have a few
catering accommodation in Gran hostels aimed at budget travellers, but
Canaria but much of it is block- elsewhere on the island the cheapest
booked by northern European travel option is usually to club together with
agencies, especially in the winter. For friends to rent an apartment.
independent travellers, many hoteliers For a more traditonal accommodation
and apartment owners do offer the option, you can stay in a casa rural or
facility to book through their websites, rural house, found in villages or coun-
often at competitive rates, though some try areas throughout the island, with a
don’t quote these rates publicly to avoid concentration in the north and in the
offending corporate customers. This Cumbre. Prices depend on the size and
guide only lists hotels and apartments standard of fittings, but start as low as
that can be booked independently. Prices e30 per night for two sharing. Local
quoted are for a high (but not peak) tourist offices have lists or you can con-
season double room per night, or in the tact the Grantural S. Coop Ltda central
case of self-catering apartments the price reservations office in Las Palmas (t902
to rent the apartment per night. The most 157 281, w www.ecoturismocanarias.
useful web portal for this is the Cabildo com) or, if looking in the north of the
Insular’s Website, w www.grancanaria. island, Gesturgan SCP, C/Principal 49,
com, which is in several languages San Mateo t928 661 011.
including English. Peak season runs Camping is not a particularly attractive
from Christmas through to February and option; the sheer distance and expense
again over Easter; the period from May of the ferry trip from Europe makes it
to October is also busy but tends to be expensive for tourers while the dry, ston-
cheaper than the winter. In Las Palmas ey ground conditions – especially in the
the hotel trade is geared to business south – are not ideal for tents.
travel and prices consequently fluctuate
Contents Essentials
173
Transport
Getting around Gran Canaria is very
straightforward, with a good network Taxis
ES S ENT IAL S Transport

of buses serving the main population
centres supplemented by cheap, Taxis are plentiful in Las Palmas and the
plentiful taxis. Roads are good, with even southern resorts and are usually white
mountain roads generally well maintained with a green light indicating if they are
and well surfaced, though frequently for hire. In town, meters will automatically
twisting and narrow. have e1.35 on them and fares are then
calculated at e0.40/kilometre, with
supplements at night and during certain
Buses holidays. Waiting is charged at e9/
hour. Tariffs for inter-urban journeys are
With the exception of Las Palmas, local e0.42/kilometre with a waiting charge
buses throughout Gran Canaria are of e11.27/hour and e2.82 for 15min
operated by Global (w www.globalsu. or a fraction of 15min. Rates are higher
net), whose distinctive green-blue buses at night and during holidays, and there’s
operate a dense and frequent service in a supplement of e1.65 for journeys on
the population centres of the north, east the airport run.
and south coasts, and a rather sparser
network elsewhere. Fares are low Taxi companies
and you can pay on the bus – just tell
Costa Canaria Cooperativa de Taxistas de
the driver your destination. Tarjetas de San Agustín t 928 766 767; Cooperativa
Ida y Vuelta Playa – designed to allow de Taxistas de Maspalomas t 928 142
people in the north to travel cheaply to 634.
the southern beaches – offer variable Las Palmas Prices Radio Taxi t928 462
discounts on travel at weekends; similar 212 or t928 461 818; Euro Taxi Gran
discount cards operate for special events Canaria t 928 460 000; Taxi Radio t 928
such as Carnival. Timetables are posted 465 666.
at bus stops or available online and Puerto Rico and Mogán Cooperativa de
Taxistas de Mogán t 928 152 740.
in two separate leaflets covering the Telde Radio Taxi de San Juan t 928 688
north and south of the island, available 713 or 928 694 908.
from tourist offices. The bus station or
Estación de Guaguas at Parque San
Telmo in Las Palmas is the chief hub Cars
of the network, and most Gran Canaria
towns of any size have their own bus Renting a car is cheap and easy, with
station. Within Las Palmas the yellow dozens of local firms mostly based in
buses operated by Guaguas Municipales the resorts and the major international
(t 928 446 500, w www.guaguas.com) companies located at the airport and
offer a cheap and convenient means of with offices in Las Palmas and the
getting about the city. The routes have major resorts. Driving – on the right
a north-south bias reflecting the shape – is generally straightforward; the
of the urban area. Tickets cost e0.90 resorts have wide, modern roads and the
from the driver, or you can buy a Bono highways between towns on the coast
Guagua (e5.30) valid for ten trips from are excellent. Getting around Las Palmas
the office at San Telmo bus station or by car is stressful and on-street parking
from shops including tobacco estancos, difficult and unsafe, though there are
general stores and newsagents. good secure car parks. Elsewhere traffic
is more moderate and road conditions
Contents Essentials
174
almost always good, though away from Safari (t928 775 188) offers tours of
the coast roads are narrower and twisting the interior and Doris’ Jeep Safari (t928
and driving can be tiring, especially 784 138) performs the same service
along the few unsurfaced roads that specifically for lesbian and gay visitors.
still exist in remote areas and which
are only passable using a 4WD vehicle Car rental companies
Sports & leisure ES S ENT IAL S
(available from rental outlets). You have

Airport Auto Reisen t 928 579 159; Avis
to be aged 18–70 and possess a valid t928 579 578; Cicar t928 579 378;
driver’s licence to rent a car. Day rates Europcar/Betacar t928 574 244; Hertz
for a week-long rental can start as low t928 579 577; Moreno Rent a Car t901
as e11, though this rises if you’re only 300 320; Record t 928 579 347.
renting for one or two days. The condition Las Palmas Avis t928 265 567; Cicar
of cars in the resorts is very variable, t 928 277 213; Hertz t928 228 846;
with popular models such as convertibles Maspalomas Hertz t 928 148 179;
or 4WDs often particularly well used, so Moreno t 928 761 534.
Playa del Inglés Avis t928 761 454;
check the car over before accepting it. Cicar t 928 767 654; Hertz t928 767
One way to experience the island’s 054.
scenery without having to drive is on a Puerto Rico Avis t928 561 009; Hertz
jeep safari. Discovery Jeep t928 560 012.
Sports & leisure

With settled, fine weather and Climbing is restricted on this latter rock,
comfortable temperatures year round, it’s because of its archeological value. Close
not surprising Gran Canaria offers a huge to El Nublo is the rock circus of Ayacata,
range of outdoor activities on land and a sanctuary of traditional climbing with
sea. Even the least enterprising visitors the largest number of classical routes of
take advantage of the swimming, fitness different lengths and degrees of difficulty.
or tennis facilities on offer at many hotels There are also sites in Tamadaba, and at
or apartment complexes, but for the truly the sea cliff of Bañaderos near Arucas.
committed the selection is much wider. Sports climbing and boulder climbing
takes place in the gullies of the south
of the island, including at Sorrueda.
Climbing With the exception of a few publicly
owned places, military sites and sites of
The rocks and sheer cliffs of the island ecological sensitivity, climbing is allowed
make it a popular destination for rock everywhere. Sports climbers do, however,
climbers. Characteristic landscape require a federal licence and proper
features include gullies, cliffs, crests, insurance. For more information contact
cauldrons, and rock needles, and the Federación Canaria de Montañismo
there’s a complete repertoire of cracks, (Fedcam; C/Hero 53, Santa Cruz de
chimneys, plates, wedges, overhangs Tenerife wwww.fedcam.es).
and ceilings, making the island basically
one immense climbing wall. New and
more difficult routes open all the time. Cycling
Outstanding areas include Roque Nublo,
with twelve routes of varying difficulty; There may not be much pleasure to be
El Palmés, in El Toscón de Tejeda, gained cycling in the cities or around the
Betancuria in Ayacata or Narices, at the resorts, but Gran Canaria’s mountainous
foot of the north face of Roque Bentayga. interior does attract cycling fans and
Contents Essentials
175
and up from e165. Training takes place in
some of the mountain hotels cater
the hotel pool and follows PADI and other
specially to cyclists. official training guidelines.
Tortuga C/Churruca 28, Arinaga t616
Rental companies and tour 686 439, wwww.buceoadaptado.com.
organizers A variety of activities adapted for disabled
people, from snorkelling to fully equipped
ES S ENT IAL S Sports & leisure

Free Motion Avda Alfereces Provision- dives with a guide.
ales, Hotel Sandy Beach Local 9, Playa
del Inglés t928 777 479, wwww.free-
motion.net. The biggest bike and outdoor Fishing
centre in Gran Canaria rents out bikes from
around e12 daily, and offers bike tours As might be expected for an island far
from e39.50 out in the Atlantic Ocean, Gran Canaria
Happy Biking CC El Nilo, Loc. 155, Avda offers rich possibilities for sport fishing.
de Molla, San Fernando t 928 768 298, Blue and white marlin, swordfish, Atlantic
w www.happy-biking.com. Bikes from as
little as e7.50/day, plus racing and moun-
spearfish, tuna and sharks lurk in the
tain bike tours from beginners upwards. waters here, and the richness of the
game fishing has led to several records
being broken. Biggest choice of boats
Diving for rent is in the harbours of the south.
Freshwater angling is also possible in the
There are numerous places off the mountain reservoirs.
coast of Gran Canaria for scuba diving,
with popular spots including: El Cabrón Fishing companies
on the east coast, a marine reserve with
Canary Safari Carp Fishing t617 977
rich sealife including barracudas and 289, wwww.canarysafaricarpfishing.com.
almaco jacks; Las Palmas, especially Puerto Rico-based British-run outfit offering
the shallows of La Isleta northeast of the escorted carp and bass fishing trips to the
port with numerous wrecks; La Baja de island’s reservoirs, including the Embalse
Pasito Blanco in the south, a sandy area de Chira. Transport from your hotel and all
that is good for underwater photography; equipment is included in the e80 price.
and Sardina del Norte, where night dives Sport Fishing Cavalier Puerto Base,
are possible close to the fishing harbour. Puerto Rico t630 189 790, w www
.marlincanariasportfishing.com. Daily
Numerous diving schools cater to demand fishing trips 9am–3pm & 3–8pm, lunch
for the sport, most located in the south. included. Caters to professional and ama-
teur anglers and also for those wanting to
Diving companies spot whales, dolphins, turtles and flying fish.
Dive Academy Gran Canaria Club
Amigos del Atlantico, C/La Lajilla, Centro
Recreativo Puesta del Sol, Arguineguín Golf
t 928 736 196, wwww.diveacademy
-grancanaria.com. The only diving school Golf has a long history on Gran Canaria
on the island with its own private swimming and it’s not surprising that, given the
pool offers one day beginners’ courses, almost-guaranteed good weather, the
all PADI courses up to instructor level and island has emerged as a major golf
diving for all ability levels daily. Prices start destination. The Real Club de Golf de Las
from e40 for a snorkelling course, and
from e32 for a single dive for a qualified
Palmas was the first club in the whole of
diver. Spain, founded in 1891, and today has six
Diving Center Sun-Sub Hotel Buenaven- courses, three close to Las Palmas and
tura, Plaza de Ansite t 928 778 165, the rest in the south of the island, while
w www.sunsub.com. Daily dives and diving the golf scene in general is expanding
courses from e60 for a resort course, with across the island.
special courses aimed at children aged 8
Contents Essentials
176
Escuela Deportiva Náutica Anfi del Mar
Golf clubs Playa Barranco de la Vega, Mogán t928
Anfi Golf Barranco del Lechugal, Valle de 150 798, ext. 1556. Introductory and
Tauro, Mogán t 928 128 840, w www. advanced sailing courses for children and
anfitauro.es. Daily 8.30am–6pm. adults.
Campo de Golf de Maspalomas Avda Club Regatas Suroeste Mogán Playa
T.O Neckerman, Maspalomas t 928 762 de las Marañuelas, Arguineguín t 928
Sports & leisure ES S ENT IAL S
581, w www.maspalomasgolf.net. Daily 560 772. Sailing and windsurfing tuition

7.30am–6.30pm. for adults and children, both theoretical
El Cortijo Club de Campo Autopista GC- and practical.
1 km 6.4 Telde t 928 711 111, w www. Escuela de Vela Overschmidt Interna-
elcortijo.es. Open to non-members cional Puerto Escala, Puerto Rico t 928
Mon–Fri 8am–12.18pm. 565 292. Introductory courses for children
El Cortijo Golf Center Autopista GC-1 km and adults, including windsurfing.
6.4 Telde t 928 684 890, w www.elcorti- Federación de Vela Latina Canaria
jogolfcenter.com. Daily 9am–11pm. Esplenada Muelle Deportivo, Las Palmas
Real Club de Golf de Las Palmas Car- t 928 230 616, w www.federacionvela-
retera de Bandama, Santa Brigida t 928 latinacanaria.org. The official body for
351 050, wwww.realclubdegolfdelaspal- Canary Island lateen sailing, it has a sailing
mas.com. Open to non-members Mon–Fri school which teaches children the tech-
8am–12.50pm. niques of lateen sailing.
Salobre Golf Urbanización Salobre Golf,
Autopista GC-1 km 53 Maspalomas
t 928 010 103, w www.salobregolfre- Trekking
sort.com. Daily 7.30am–7pm.
The stunning landscape and benign
climate make Gran Canaria a real
Sailing paradise for walkers, and the island’s
32 protected natural areas are best
The main areas for sailing around discovered on foot. There’s an intricate
Gran Canaria are the bays of Las network of paths, from easy forest routes
Alcaraveneras and Las Canteras in Las and bridle routes to tracks and trails that
Palmas, the east coast, and the resort are strictly for expert hikers and, though
coasts of the south and southwest. Gran short, often very steep. Signposting of the
Canaria is something of a powerhouse of trails is currently being upgraded.
competitive sailing, and Gran Canarians Eurotrekking (t 928 141 187, w www.
form the core of the Spanish Olympic trekkingcanarias.com), offers guided treks
team. through the Canarian countryside each
Canary Island lateen sailing is a Monday and Thursday, suitable for the
sub-branch of the sport, in which the inexperienced and mostly lasting a half-
disproportionate size of the tall sails rela- day or less.
tive to the modest dimensions of the hull
makes for tricky handling. The season Surfing and
runs from April to October.
Windsurfing
Sailing schools
Gran Canaria’s coast offers many
Sailing School Juan Carlos I Federación
Insular de Vela, C/Joaquín Blanco Torrent,
opportunities for catching some great
Las Palmas t 928 291 567. Boats for hire waves. In the north, Bocabarranco, San
and instruction available throughout the Felipe, Las Canteras (southern end) and
year, including introductory classes for both La Isleta are all good spots, while Pozo
adults and children. Izqierdo on the east coast is particularly
Joaquín Blanco Torrent Sailing School good, and Maspalomas point and the
C/Olímpico Doreste Molina Puerto Rico area by the Faro de Maspalomas in the
t928 560 772. Dinghy-sailing tuition for south are both popular too.
children from ages 8 and up.
Contents Essentials
177
and a pool as well as its windsurfing school
This island is considered the world’s
and a school of diving, the centre is located
second best location for windsurfing in the windsurfing hotspot of Pozo Izquierdo.
– only Hawaii beats it – and is home Courses start from e80 for children and
to twelve-times world champion Björn e100 for adults for ten hours.
Dunkerbeck, who runs a windsurfing Dunkerbeck Windsurfing Center Playa
school in the south. Pozo Izquierdo and del Aguila San Agustín t678 893 998,
ES S ENT IAL S Festivals

Vargas on the east coast are world- wwww.dunkerbeck-windsurfing.com.
famous windsurfing beaches. This is the school owned by the many-times
world champion windsurfer Björn Dunker-
beck. You can rent or buy equipment and
Windsurfing schools it also offers ten-hour beginner courses
Centro Internacional de Windsurfing from e190, and advanced courses start-
Pozo Izquierdo t 928 121 400, w www. ing at e70. They also organisze intensive
pozo-ciw.com. Offering accommodation windsurfing camps, including weekends
for children.
Festivals
Guía Local farmers invite you to try their
January 5 products at this annual cheese festival in
Los Tres Reyes Caspar, Beltasar and the island’s best-known centre of cheese
Melchior – the Three Wise Men – parade production, celebrated at the end of April
through the streets alongside floats featur- and during the first week of May.
ing children’s allegories as part of the
Spanish Christmas celebrations. Las Pal-
mas, San Bartolomé de Tirajana and Gáldar May 30
are the best places to see these parades. Dia de las Islas Canarias Canary Island
Day is celebrated in Las Palmas with
concerts, festivals, sporting events and a
firework display.
February
Fiesta del Almendro en flor Folk music
and traditional foods are the attractions at July
this festival in the first fortnight of February, Fiestas del Carmen On the Sundays
celebrating the blossoming of the almond before and after July 16, the island’s
trees in the upland communities of Valse- fishermen celebrate the festival of Nuestra
quillo and Tejeda. Señora del Carmen, the patron saint of
sailors, by decorating their boats and tak-
ing to sea with an image of the Virgin.
February/March
Carnival Carnival is celebrated with
fervour in Gran Canaria, especially in July 25
Aguïmes, Las Palmas and Maspalomas. Fiesta de Santiago Apóstol, Gáldar
The programme is somewhat loosely The highlight of this festival honouring the
related to the liturgical calendar, so that patron saint of Spain is a battle of flow-
festivities often continue beyond Ash ers, but there is a strong cultural side that
Wednesday into Lent. encompasses folklore, music and art.
March/April August 4
Semana Santa (Holy Week) Processions Bajada de la Rama Rain-making festival
in Vegueta and Triana, plus concerts of of pre-Hispanic origin during which the
ancient, baroque and sacred music. people of Agaete parade down to the sea
carrying palm branches and preceded
by papagüevos – giant effigies of local
April/May characters.
Fiesta del Queso, Santa Maria de
Contents Essentials
178
Canaria’s largest religious festival honours
August the Virgin of the Pine, patron saint of the
Fiesta del Agua This water festival at
Canary Islands.
Lomo Magullo, near Telde during the last
two weeks in August, ends with water
throwing outside the church and attracts
a huge following. Perfectly timed to relieve
September 9
Fiesta del Charco, Puerto de la Aldea
Festivals • Directory ES S ENT IAL S
the summer heat, but be warned – tourists

Participants in this strange but extremely
are considered fair game.
popular pre-Hispanic ritual jump into a salt-
water lagoon to try to catch fish with their
bare hands. It’s hugely popular and a bit of
August 15–29 a free-for-all so if you manage to get any-
Virgen de la Cueva, Artenara Each where near the action expect to get wet.
year the Virgin of the Cave is taken from
her chapel and carried in procession to
the parish church of Artenara, returning
to the cave chapel on the last Sunday of
September-October
Virgen del Rosario, Aguïmes This festi-
the month.
val celebrates water and the island’s staple
cereal, gofio, which participants throw at
each other in the streets of the town.
September 7
Fiesta de Nuestra Señora del Pino Gran
Directory
Addresses Common abbreviations are: C/ firstchoice.co.uk; Iberia t902 400 500,
for calle (street); Ctra for carretera (road); w www.Iberia.com; Monarch t 928 579
Avda for avenida (avenue), Edif for edificio 156; reservations 800 099 260; wwww.
(building), Aptos for apartamentos (apart- flymonarch.com; Thomas Cook Airlines
ments) and CC for centro comercial (a t 928 579 585 (agent), w www.thomas-
shopping centre or mall). Within the centros cook.com; Thomsonfly t 914 141 481,
comerciales businesses are located by (agent), w www.thomsonfly.com.
local (unit/premises) and planta (floor). In Banks and exchange The currency in
towns an address given as C/Gijón 23, 5º the Canary Islands is the Euro (E). Bank
means the fifth floor of no. 23 Gijón street. branches, many with ATMs, are plentiful in
Some addresses use derecha and izquierda all the main towns and resorts, and usually
meaning to the right or left of the building; open Mon–Fri 8.15/8.30am–2/2.15pm &
others may have s/n after the street name Sat 8.30am–1pm from October until the
meaning sin número (no number). Outside end of March, but hours are shorter during
main towns, addresses are expressed Carnival. Some banks open during the late
according to the distance from a given afternoon and evening one day a week and
point along a road, so that Ctra de Arucas bureaux de change are open longer hours.
a Bañaderos km 1 means it’s on the Aru- It is also possible to exchange money in
cas-Bañaderos road, 1km from Arucas. some hotels and in travel agencies, but at
Airlines Aer Lingus t 902 502 737, less competitive rates.
w www.aerlingus.com; Binter Canarias Consulates British Edificio Cataluña,
(inter-island flights) t 902 391 392, C/Luis Morote 6, 3º, Las Palmas t 928
w www.binternet.com; British Airways 262 508; Ireland C/León y Castillo 195,
(operated by GB Airways) t 928 579 573, 1º dcha, Las Palmas t928 29 77 28;
w www.ba.com; ExCel Airways t 928 579 United States C/Martínez de Escobar 3, 1°
156 (agent), w www.xl.com; First Choice oficina 7 t 928 222 552. Many European
Airways t 928 579 156 (agent), w www. and African nations have consulates in Las
Contents Essentials
179
Palmas; the nearest representative for most los) are sold at post offices (correos)
other countries is Madrid. and anywhere that sells postcards. Post
Customs For customs purposes the Canary office hours vary but in the bigger towns
Islands do not count as part of the EU. The open from 8.30am–8.30pm weekdays,
current limits on what you can import to 9.30am–1/2pm at weekends. In smaller
the UK without paying duty are 2 litres of towns it’s more typically 8.30am–2.30pm
still wine, 1 litre of spirits or liqueur over 22 weekdays, and 9.30am–1pm on Saturdays.
ES S ENT IAL S Directory

percent volume or 2 litres of fortified wine; Deliveries outside the Canaries are quite
200 cigarettes, and 60cc of perfume. You slow and it usually takes ten days at least
can also bring back £145 of all other goods for a postcard to reach the UK or mainland
including gifts and souvenirs. Europe (outside Spain).
Emergency services For police, ambu- Pharmacies Farmacias are marked with
lance and fire brigade call t 112. a large green cross and are generally open
Hospitals and clinics Clínica Salus Las Mon–Fri 9am–1pm and 4.30–8.30pm, Sat
Palmeras, CC Kasbah, Avda. de Tenerife 24, 9am–1pm; a rota of 24-hour duty chem-
Playa del Inglés t 928 762 992; Clínica ists is posted up outside showing where
Scandinavica, CC Gran Chaparral, Avda. to go out of hours in an emergency. This
Gran Canaria 30, Playa del Inglés t 928 information is available online (in Spanish)
771 638; Clínica Scandinavica, Río Piedras at wwww.farmaciascanarias.com.
2, Puerto Rico t 928 725 284; Clínica Telephones Most hotels add surcharges to
Scandinavica, Plaza de Canarias, San calls made from their rooms, so it’s cheaper
Agustín t 928 157 315; Complejo Hospi- to use one of the distinctive blue and green
talario Materno-Insular, Avda. Marítima del public payphones which require coins, Tel-
Sur, Las Palmas t 928 444 500; Hospital efónica phone cards or credit cards. Mobile
Clínica Roca, C/Buganvilla 1, San Agustín phones that are compatible with European
t928 769 004; Hospital de Gran Canaria networks will work in Gran Canaria, but
Dr Negrín C/Barranco de la Ballena, Las check with your service provider about
Palmas t928 450 000. coverage and call costs. Your phone will not
Internet Internet facilities are most widely automatically seek out the cheapest local
available throughout the island in amuse- network.
ment arcades, though there are also a few Time Gran Canaria is in the same time
conventional Internet cafés in Las Palmas. zone as the UK and Ireland, making it five
Standards and facilities vary, with some hours ahead of the US East Coast and
arcades utilizing coin-operated machines eleven hours behind East Coast Australia.
and Spanish, rather than qwerty, keyboards. Tipping In bars and taxis, rounding up to
Thirty minutes usually costs around e2. the next euro is fine, while with waiters a
Mail Post boxes are yellow and marked 5–10 percent tip is perfectly adequate.
with a post horn symbol. Stamps (sel-
Contents Essentials
180
Contents Essentials
Language
Contents Language
Contents Language
183
Spanish
Once you get into it, Spanish is the easiest language
there is, and you’ll be helped everywhere by people who
are eager to try and understand even the most faltering
L ANGU AG E Pronunciation • Words and phrases

attempt. English is spoken in the main tourist areas, but
you’ll get a far better reception if you try communicating
with Canarian Islanders in their own tongue.
For more than a brief introduction to the language,
pick up a copy of the Rough Guide Spanish Dictionary
Phrasebook.
Pronunciation
The rules of pronunciation are pretty straightforward and strictly
observed.
A somewhere between the A sound of J is the same as a guttural G: jamón is
back and that of father. “hamon”.
E as in get. LL sounds like an English Y: tortilla is
I as in police. pronounced “torteeya”.
O as in hot. N is as in English unless it has a tilde
U as in rule. (accent) over it, when it
C is spoken like an S before E and I, becomes NY: mañana sounds
hard otherwise: cerca is like ”manyana”.
pronounced “sairka” (standard QU is pronounced like an English K.
Spanish would pronounce it R is rolled, RR doubly so.
“thairka”). V sounds more like B, vino becoming
G is a guttural H sound (like the ch in ”beano”.
loch) before E or I, a hard G X has an S sound before consonants,
elsewhere – gigante becomes normal X before vowels.
“higante”. Z is the same as a soft C, so cerveza
H is always silent. becomes “thairbaitha”
Words and phrases

Basics Big, Small Gran(de), Pequeño/a
Cheap, Expensive Barato, Caro
Yes, No, OK Sí, No, Vale Hot, Cold Caliente, Frío
Please, Thank youPor favor, Gracias More, Less Más, Menos
Where?, When? ¿Dónde?, Today, Tomorrow Hoy, Mañana
¿Cuando? Yesterday Ayer
What?, How much? ¿Qué?, ¿Cuánto? The bill La cuenta
Here, There Aquí, Allí
This, That Esto, Eso Greetings and responses
Now, Later Ahora, Más tarde
Open, Closed Abierto/a, Hello, Goodbye Hola, Adiós
Cerrado/a Good morning Buenos días
With, Without Con, Sin Good afternoon/night Buenas tardes/
Good, Bad Buen(o)/a, Mal(o)/a noches
Contents Language
184
See you later Hasta luego the toilet el baño
Sorry Lo siento/disculpe Where does the bus De dónde sale la
Excuse me Con permiso/ to . . . leave from? guagua para. . .?
perdón I’d like a (return) Quisiera un billete
How are you? ¿Como está ticket to . . . (de ida y vuelta)
(usted)? para. . .
I (don’t) understand (No) Entiendo What time does it ¿A qué hora sale?
Words and phrases L ANGU AGE
Not at all/You’re De nada leave?

welcome
Do you speak ¿Habla (usted) Numbers and days
English? inglés?
I (don’t) speak (No) Hablo español 1 un/uno/una
Spanish 2 dos
My name is . . . Me llamo. . . 3 tres
What’s your name? ¿Como se llama 4 cuatro
usted? 5 cinco
I am English/ Soy inglés(a)/ 6 seis
Scottish/ escocés(a)/ 7 siete
Welsh/ galés(a)/ 8 ocho
Australian/ australiano(a)/ 9 nueve
Canadian/ canadiense(a)/ 10 diez
American/ americano(a)/ 11 once
Irish/ irlandés(a)/ 12 doce
a New Zealander Nueva 13 trece
Zelandes(a) 14 catorce
15 quince
Hotels, transport and directions 16 diez y seis
17 diez y siete
I want Quiero 18 diez y ocho
I’d like Quisiera 19 diez y nueve
Do you know. . .? ¿Sabe . . .? 20 veinte
I don’t know No sé 21 veintiuno
There is (is there)? (¿)Hay(?) 30 treinta
Give me (one like Deme (uno así) 40 cuarenta
that) 50 cincuenta
Do you have. . .? ¿Tiene . . .? 60 sesenta
the time la hora 70 setenta
a room una habitación 80 ochenta
with two beds/ con dos camas/ 90 noventa
double bed cama matrimonial 100 cien(to)
with shower/bath con ducha/baño 101 ciento uno
It’s for one person Es para una 200 doscientos
persona 500 quinientos
For one night para una noche 1000 mil
For one week para una semana Monday lunes
How do I get to. . .? ¿Por donde se va Tuesday martes
a . . .? Wednesday miércoles
Left, right, Izquierda, derecha, Thursday jueves
straight on todo recto Friday viernes
Where is. . .? ¿Dónde está . . .? Saturday sábado
the bus station la estación de Sunday domingo
guaguas today hoy
the nearest bank el banco mas yesterday ayer
cercano tomorrow mañana
the post office el correos/la
oficina de
correos
Contents Language
185
Food and drink crema catalana Spanish version of
crème brulée
aceitunas olives croquetas croquettes, usually
agua water with bits of ham in
ahumados smoked fish cuba libre rum and coke
al ajillo with olive oil and cuchara spoon
garlic cuchillo knife
L ANGU AG E Words and phrases

a la marinera seafood cooked empanada slices of fish/meat
with garlic, pie
onions and white ensalada salad
wine ensaladilla russian salad
a la parilla charcoal-grilled (diced vegetables
a la plancha grilled on a hot in mayonnaise,
plate often with tuna)
a la romana fried in batter flan creme caramel
albóndigas meatballs fresa strawberry
almejas clams gambas prawns
almogrote a paste of goat’s gofio finely ground mix
cheese, tomato, of wheat, barley
chilli and garlic, or maize, usually
often served as accompanying
an appetizer. soups and stews
anchoas anchovies gofio escaldado a thick, soup-like
arroz rice dish based on
asado roast fish stock and
bacalao cod gofio, often on
berenjena aubergine/eggplant menus as a
bienmesabe literally “tastes starter but hearty
good to me” enough for a light
– a blend of lunch
almonds and huevos eggs
honey used jamón serrano cured ham
widely in jamón de york regular ham
desserts langostinos langoustines
bocadillo bread roll sandwich leche milk
boquerones small, anchovy-like lechuga lettuce
fish, usually manzana apple
served in vinegar media ración large plate of tapas
cabra goat (literally “half
café (con leche) (white) coffee portion”)
calamares squid (fried in mejillones mussels
(a la romana) batter) mojo garlic dressing
cangrejo crab available in rojo
cebolla onion (spicy “red”
cervéza beer version) and
champiñones mushrooms “verde” (“green”,
chorizo spicy sausage made with
churros doughnut-like coriander)
batter strips morcilla black pudding/
served for blood sausage
breakfast with naranja orange
thick hot ostras oysters
chocolate pan bread
conejo rabbit papas arrugadas unpeeled new
potatoes, boiled
dry in salted water
Contents Language
186
papas alioli potatoes in garlic ropa vieja literally “old clothes”,
mayonnaise a stew of meat with
papas bravas fried potatoes in a chickpeas and
spicy tomato vegetables
sauce salchicha sausage
pimientos peppers setas oyster mushrooms
pimientos de small peppers, with the solomillo sirloin steak
Glossary L ANGU AGE
padrón odd hot one sopa soup

piña pineapple té tea
pisto assortment of cooked tenedor fork
vegetables, similar to tomate tomato
ratatouille tortilla potato omelette
plátano banana española
pollo chicken tortilla plain omelette
pulpo octopus francesa
pulpo a la octopus served sliced with vino (blanco/ (white/rosé/red) wine
Gallega olive oil and paprika rosado/
queso cheese tinto)
zarzuela Canarian fish stew
zumo juice
Glossary
almogarén place of pre-Hispanic edificio building
religious rituals, generally on an ermita hermitage or chapel
elevated site hacienda large manor house
avenida avenue guagua local name for buses
ayuntamiento town hall iglesia church
barranco gorge menú del dia daily menu in a restaurant
barrio suburb or neighbourhood mercado market
bodega wine cellar; can also be a mirador view point
restaurant Mudéjar Spanish-Moorish architecture
calle (usually abbreviated to C/) street parador state-run hotel, usually housed
or road in buildings of historic interest
camino real high road; ancient cross- playa beach
country track or path plaza square
casco histórico historic core (of town) terraza outdoor bar/club
CC (centro comercial) shopping and
entertainment mall
Contents Language
small print & Index
Contents small print & Index

188
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standards. If you feel we’ve got it wrong or left Guides, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, or Rough
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189
Rough Guide credits
Text editor: Clifton Wilkinson Proofreader: Serena Stephenson
Layout: Diana Jarvis Production: Katherine Owers
Photography: Neville Walker, Eddie Gerald Cover design: Diana Jarvis
Cartography: Katie Lloyd-Jones
Picture editor: Mark Thomas
SM
SMALAL
The author
L LP R
Neville Walker first visited Gran Canaria on a Ireland and South Africa. He has worked on the
cheap deal in 1993, and has been back to the Rough Guides to London, Austria, France, and Pro-
P R INT
island almost every year since, writing articles about vence & the Côte d’Azur. This is his first complete
it for newspapers and magazines in the UK, USA, book for Rough Guides.
Acknowledgements
The author would like to thank everyone who made nan, to Dave at the diving school in Arguineguin,
researching and writing this book easier. Thanks to and to Raymond at Respect in Playa del Inglés.
Alma Perez at the Spanish Tourist Office in London, Thanks above all to Geoff Howard and my editor
to Magui at Hotel Rural Las Calas, Peggy Betancor Clifton Wilkinson at Rough Guides in London and to
Bravo de Laguna, Paula Schlueter at the Cabildo Geoff Hinchley, Isobel and Kathryn Walker.
Insular, Federico Espino-Martel and Michael Duig-
Photo credits
All images © Rough Guides except the following:
Front cover picture: Sand dunes of Maspalomas © p.29 Fiesta de la Virgen © Gran Canaria Tourist
Cris Haigh/Alamy Board
Back cover picture: Puerto de Mogan © Peter p.37 Jeep safari © Gran Canaria Tourist Board
Adams Photography/Alamy p.37 Camel ride © Gran Canaria Tourist Board
p.11 Carnival in Las Palmas ©Juan Medina/Corbis p.46 Lateen sailing © Gran Canaria Tourist Board
p.28 Carnival in Las Palmas © Juan Medina/Corbis p.47 diver © Helen Atkinson/Alamy
p.29 Fiestas del Carmen © Hans Van Reenen
Selected images from our guidebooks are available for licensing from:
ROUGHGUIDESPICTURES.COM

Index
Maps are marked in colour
Pacha 15, 128 Climbing 174

a Ronería Museo del Ron 78
Scratch Sports Bar 63
Clubs (by area)
Costa Canaria 129
Tagoror 63 Las Palmas: Cuidad Jardín to
Accommodation 172 Buses 173 La Isleta 78
Addresses 178 Las Palmas: Vegueta and
Agaete 148 Triana 64
Aguïmes 90
c
INDEX
Clubs
Airlines 178 Bachira 129
Alameda de Colón 56 Chic/Cream 129
Alcaravaneras 69 CAAM (Centro Atlántico de Dojo 78
Andén Verde 11, 147 Arte Moderno) 52 Floridita 64
Aqualand Aqua Sur 118 Jellyfish 64
Cabildo Insular 59
Arguineguín 133 JPM 129
Cafés (by area)
Arinaga 92 Pacha 78
Costa Canaria 125
Arrival 171 Soul Train 64
East coast 95
Sueño Latino 129
Arteara 97 Las Palmas: Cuidad Jardín to
Cocodrilo Park 91
Artenara 108 La Isleta 75
Las Palmas: Vegueta and Consulates 178
Arucas 159
Triana 61 Costa Canaria 111
Arucas 159
North 166 Cruz de Tejeda 106
Auditorio Alfredo Kraus 21, 79
Telde 86 Cruz Grande 103
Avenida José Mesa y López
Southwest coast 141 Cuatro Puertas 84
70
Cafés Cumbre, The 10, 97
Avenida Marítima 51
Bar Carabela 75 Cumbre, The 98–99
Ayacata 104
Café and Bar Guiniguada 61 Customs 178
Café Wien 18, 125 Cycling 174
Cafetería Carruso 75
b Cafetería-Plaza 86
Bahía Feliz 114

Cañas y Tapas 75
Churrería-Chocolatería Mon-
tesol 61
d
Bajada de la Rama 29, 149 Churrería Mercado 125
Dedo de Dios 43, 149
Banana Park 118 El Perojo 61
El Viento 19, 95 Directory 178
Banks and exchange 178
La Parada 19, 141 Diving 175
Barranco de Agaete 150
Parque San Telmo 19 Dunes of Maspalomas 10,
Barranco de Guayadeque
Pastelería Morales 61 116
11, 89
Barranco de los Cernícalos 85 Tasca la Villa 166
Terraza la Marinera 76
Barranco de Moya 42, 158
Barranco de Tasártico 145
Barrio de Arenales 59
Caldera de Bandama 42, 163
Caldera de los Marteles 107
Caldera Pinos de Gáldar 107
e
Bars (by area)
Costa Canaria 128 Calle Cano 58 East coast, The 87
Las Palmas: Cuidad Jardín to Calle Dr Chil 54 East coast, The 88
La Isleta 77 Calle Mayor de Triana 57 Ecumenical Church, Playa del
Las Palmas: Vegueta and Camping Guantanamo II 141 Inglés 32, 115
Triana 63 Carnival 11, 70 El Pajar 133
Southwest coast 143 Cars 173 El Puertillo 161
Bars Casa de Colón 31, 53 Embalse de Chira 103
Bar Madrid 18 Castillo de Mata 59 Embalse de la Sorrueda 102
Beckham Bar 128 Castillo del Romeral 93 Emergency services 178
Café Tequila 77 Catedral de Santa Ana 33, 54 Ermita de las Nieves 33, 150
The Camel Bar 77 CC Yumbo 40
CC Monopol 63 Cenobio de Valerón 157
Chinawhite 15, 128
Clicquot 63
Garage 128
Centro Atlántico de Arte Mod-
erno 31, 52
Centro de Interpretación
f
Gran Terraza Lolita Pluma 78
Harley’s Café Dancing 143 30, 90 Faro de Maspalomas 34, 117
Hippodrome Disco Bar 128 Church of San Domingo 56 Fataga 100

191
Festivals 177 Gloria Palace Amadores Las Palmas: Vegueta and
Fiesta del Almendro en flor 29 23, 140 Triana 52
Fiesta del Charco 147 Golf Bandama 165 Lesbian and gay (by area)
Fiesta de la Virgen del Pino Gran Hotel Costa Meloneras Costa Canaria 124
29, 162 22, 121 Las Palmas: Cuidad Jardín to La
Fiestas del Carmen 133 Gran Hotel Residencia 121 Isleta 79
La Hacienda del Buen Suceso Lesbian and gay
Firgas 158
23, 165 Bridge Club Iron 79
Fishing 175 Hostal Alcaravaneras 73
Fortaleza de Ansite 102 Club Tucanes 124
Hotel Faycán 74 Detox Retox 130
Hotel Igramar 74 First Lady 130
Hotel Madrid 60 Gay Pride 41
g Hotel Parque 60
Hotel Reina Isabel 74
Heaven 41, 130
INDEX
Miau 41, 79
Hotel Rural El Cortijo San Pasión Tropical 124
Gáldar 153 Ignacio Golf 86 Playa de Maspalomas 40
Gay and lesbian (by area) Hotel Rural Las Calas 23, 165 Respect Los Almendros 124
Costa Canaria 124 Hotel Santa Catalina 22, 75 Strand Apotheke 41, 130
Las Palmas: Cuidad Jardín to La Hotel Valencia 75 Villas Blancas 124
Isleta 79 Hotel-Escuela Santa Brigida Yumbo Centre 40, 124
Gay and lesbian 165 Lesbian and gay accommoda-
Bridge Club Iron 79 IFA Continental 122
tion 124
Club Tucanes 124 IFA Dunamar 122
Las Tirajanas 23, 110
Live music and entertainment
Detox Retox 130 (by area)
First Lady 130 Los Cascajos 150
Neptuno 122 Costa Canaria 129
Gay Pride 41 Las Palmas: Cuidad Jardín to
Heaven 41, 130 Park and Sporthotel Los
Palmitos 122 La Isleta 79
Miau 41, 79 Las Palmas: Vegueta and
Pasión Tropical 124 Pensión Perojo 61
Princesa Guayarmina 150 Triana 64
Playa de Maspalomas 40 Southwest Coast 143
Respect Los Almendros 124 Puerto de las Nieves 151
Puerto de Mogán 140 Live music and entertainment
Strand Apotheke 41, 130 Auditorio Alfredo Kraus 79
Villas Blancas 124 Residencia San Fernando 123
Riu Palace Maspalomas 122 Casino Palace Gran Canaria
Yumbo Centre 40, 124 129
Gay and lesbian accommoda- Villa de Aguïmes 94
Villa del Conde 12 Chez Funny Boy 143
tion 124 Cuasquías 64
Golf 175 Garbo’s Dinner Theatre 129
Gran Karting Club 39, 111 El Palacío Latino 79
i Ricky’s Cabaret Bar 129
Teatro Cuyas 64
h Information 171
Ingenio 87
Los Azulejos 34, 139
Los Tilos de Moya 158
Holiday World 38, 117 Internet 179

Hospitals and clinics 178
Hotels and pensions (by area) m
Costa Canaria 121
Cumbre 109
East coast 94
j Mail 179
Maspalomas 117
Las Palmas: Cuidad Jardín to Jardín Canario 37, 164 Maspalomas 112–113
La Isleta 73 Juan Grande 93 Meloneras 119
Las Palmas: Vegueta and Mercado de Vegueta 54
Triana 60
Mirador de Fataga 120
North 165
Southwest coast 140
Telde 86
l Mirador del Balcón 147
Mogán 138
West coast and Andén Montañon Negro 107
La Guancha 152 Moya 158
Verde 150
La Isleta 72 Mundo Aborigen 30, 120
Hotels and pensions Language 183
AC Gran Canaria 73 Museo Canario 31, 55
Las Palmas: Cuidad Jardín to Museo Elder 39, 71
Casa de los Camellos 94
Catarina 121 La Isleta 65 Museo Néstor 31, 68
Centro Internacional de Wind- Las Palmas: Cuidad Jardín
surfing 94 to La Isleta 66–67
El Refugio 109 Las Palmas: Vegueta and
Eugenia Victoria 121 Triana 51

192
Pueblo Canario 29 Mesón las Tapas 127
n Puerto de la Luz 72
Puerto de las Nieves 149
Mundo 25, 127
Puerto Escala 143
Puerto de Mogán 138 Restaurant Satautey 167
North, The 154–155 Restaurante Centenario 110
Puerto de Mogán 138
Northwest & the Andén Restaurante Playamar 86
Puerto Rico 135
Verde 145 Restaurante Roma 77
Puerto Rico 138
Nuestra Señora del Pino Rias Bajas (Las Palmas) 77
32, 161 Rias Bajas (Playa del Inglés)
127
r Rimini 127
o Real Aeroclub de Gran

Santiago El Grande 110
Tagoror (Barranco de Guayad-
eque) 24, 96
INDEX
Canaria 112 Tu Casa 143

Ojos de Garza 84
Restaurants (by area) Risco Blanco 102
Costa Canaria 126 Roque Bentayga 35, 104
Cumbre 110 Roque Nublo 35, 104
p East coast 94
Las Palmas: Cuidad Jardín to
Palmitos Park 39, 118

Parque Doramas 65
La Isleta 76
Triana 62
s
Parque Doramas 68 North 166
Southwest Coast 141 Sailing 176
Parque San Telmo 58
Telde 86 Salobre 131
Parque Santa Catalina 70
West coast and Andén San Agustín 114
Pasito Blanco 119
Verde 151 San Andres 161
Patalavaca 134
Restaurants San Bartolomé de Tirajana
Pharmacies 179
Al Andalus 126 101
Pinar de Pajonales 134
Anthuriun 76 San Fernando 119
Pinar de Tamadaba 37, 108
Apolo XI 141 San Francisco, Telde 82
Playa de Amadores 44, 136 Balcón Canario 142 San Gregorio, Telde 82
Playa de Bocabarranco 152 Bodegón del Pueblo Canario San Juan Bautista, Arucas
Playa de Güigüí 145 76 33, 159
Playa de la Aldea 146 Candombe 76 San Juan, Telde 80
Playa de la Laja 51 Casa Enrique 25, 142 San Nicolás de Tolentino 146
Playa de las Canteras 43, Casa Montesdeoca 24, 62
Santa Brigida 163
45, 71 Cho Zacarias 62
Santa Lucia 102
Playa de las Salinetas 83 Cofradía de Pescadores,
Arguineguín 142 Santa Maria de Guía 156
Playa de Maspalomas 40,
Cofradía de Pescadores, Cas- Sardina del Norte 152
45, 118
tillo del Romeral 94 Self-catering apartments
Playa de Melenara 45, 83
Don Quijote 142 (by area)
Playa de Montaña Arena Costa Canaria 123
44, 132 El Alpendre 95
El Caldero de Mogán 143 Las Palmas: Cuidad Jardín to
Playa de Pasito Bea 132 La Isleta 75
El Herreño 62
Playa de San Felipe 157 El Oliver 151 North 166
Playa de Sardina del Norte El Oroval 95 Southwest Coast 140
45, 152 El Puertillo 25, 166 Self-catering apartments
Playa de Taurito 137 El Rincón de Arinaga 95 Apartamentos Blue Star 140
Playa de Tiritaña 137 Hermanos Rogelio 77 Apartamentos Marsin
Playa de Vargas 91 Hipócrates 62 Playa 75
Playa de Veneguera 139 Hong Kong 126 Arizona Bungalows 140
Playa del Águila 114 La Bodega de Cornelio 166 Bungalows Cordial Green
Playa del Burrero 87 La Bodeguita del Monte 167 Golf 123
Playa del Cabrón 92 La Candelilla 110 Casa Rural Doña Margarita
Playa del Cura 136 La Casa Vieja 126 166
La Cava Triana 25, 62 Liberty Apartments 123
Playa del Inglés 115
La Chimenea 167 Riosol Aparthotel 141
Playa del Tauro 136 Sun’s Gardens 123
La Fragata 167
Plaza Cairasco 58 Tenesor Apartments 123
La Marinera 21, 77
Plaza de Santa Ana 54 La Pizza 86 La Venecia de Canarias 141
Plaza del Espíritu Santo 56 La Toja 127 Shops (by area)
Poblado de El Agujero 152 Las Cumbres Mesón del Costa Canaria 124
Poblado de Tufia 84 Cordero 126 East coast 94
Pozo de las Nieves 106 Los Cedros 77 Las Palmas: Cuidad Jardín to
Pozo Izquierdo 93 Martel House 127 La Isleta 73

193
Triana 60
Southwest Coast 141
t v
Shops
Centro Comercial Atlántico 94 Taxis 173 Valleseco 162
Centro Comercial Cita 124 Teatro Pérez Galdos 56 Valsequillo 85
Centro Comercial Faro 2 124 Tejeda 105 Vega de Acusa 109
Centro Comercial Yumbo 124 Telde 80 Vega de San Mateo 162
Cerámica Mogán 141 Telde 82 Vegueta 11, 51
El Corte Inglés 17, 73 Telde & around 81
El Gabinete Gastronómico 60 Telephones 179
Fedac 16, 60, 125
La Casa del Habano 60
Mercado Central 73
Temisas 103
Tenerife 150 w
INDEX
Teror 161
Mercado Municipal 125
Time 179 West Coast and Andén
Sioux City 38, 114
Tipping 179 Verde 144
Soria 134
Torre Woermann 35 Windsurfing 176
Southwest coast, The 131
Transport 173 Wines of Gran Canaria 164
Southwest coast, The 132
Trekking 176
Sports and leisure 174
y
Yellow Submarine 139

USEFUL BUS ROUTES ON GRAN CANARIA
Las Palmas Airport San San Puerto Playa Puerto
(San Telmo) (Autovia) Agustín Fernando Arguineguín Rico del Cura de Mogán
01 01
every 20 mins
Las Palmas Airport

(San Telmo) (Autovia) Carrizal Ingenio Aguïmes
11 11
hourly
Las Palmas Las Palmas

(San Telmo) Telde (San Telmo)
12 12
every 30 mins
a e
a
an m
ed
aj lo
de
za
j
or ndo
Te
Tir rto
an
en
hu
a
Faro de
a
de n Ba
de
at
Gr
Ab Mu
ga
ig
c
ar
da
ac
Le
Maspalomas San Mateo
uz
te
ta
uz
je
Sa
Ay
Ar
Fa
La
Cr
Te
Cr
18 18
4–6 daily
Faro de
Arinaga Doctoral Juan Grande San Agustín Faro 2 Maspalomas
25 25
hourly
Las Palmas
(Santa Playa del Campo Faro de
Catalina) San Telmo Airport Bahía Feliz San Agustín Inglés de Golf Maspalomas
30 30
every 20–30 mins
Puerto de San Nicolús

Mogán Mogán Veneguera Tocodounan de Tolentino
38 38
2–5 daily
Las Palmas
Parque San (Santa
Airport Telmo (Las Palmas) Catalina)
60 60
2 an hour
Puerto de Puerto de San

Gáldar Agaete las Nieves Anden Verde San Nicolás Nicolás
101 101
2–5 daily
Las Palmas
(San Telmo) Bañaderos Cruce San Felipe Guía Gáldar
105 105
3 an hour weekdays
hourly weekends
Las Palmas
(San Telmo) Bañaderos Arucas Firgas
202 202
1–2 daily
Las Palmas
(San Telmo) Tamaraceife Teror
216 216
hourly
Artenara Valleseco Teror

220 220
12 daily
GRAN CANARIA
La Isleta
Gáldar Bañaderos
2
Sardina del Norte
GC-207 GC-2
GC-2
Arucas LAS
ATLANTIC GC-2
PALMAS
GC-2
Agaete Firgas GC-300
OCEAN GC-220 1
9 GC-30 GC-21
GC-200 Teror GC-100 GC-1

Tafira Alta
El Risco
Pinar de Santa Brigida Monte Lentiscal
GC-21
Puerto de Tamadaba
la Aldea (1444m) Vega de
Tejeda GC-15 San Mateo
GC-41
Telde
San Nicolás 5 Roque Nublo Valsequillo de 3
de Tolentino 8 (1819m) Gran Canaria
GC-100
GC-1
GC-200 GC-60
San Bartolomé
de Tirajana
Santa Lucía Ingenio
Fataga GC-551 Agüimes
Mogán
GC-65 4
GC-191
GC-200 GC-60 GC-65
Arinaga
7 Vecindarío
GC-1
Puerto de
Mogán GC-500
Puerto Rico Juan Grande
GC-1
6
Arguineguín San Agustín N
Maspalomas Playa de Inglés
LAS DUNAS DE
MASPALOMAS
1. Las Palmas: Vegueta & Triana p.51

2. Las Palmas: Ciudad Jardín to La Isleta p.65 ATLANTIC
3. Telde and around p.80
4. The east coast p.87 OCEAN
5. The Cumbre p.97
6. Costa Canaria p.111
7. The southwest coast p.131
8. The west coast and the Andén Verde p.144 0 5 km
9. The north p.152
N
CANARY ISLANDS
AT L A N T I C
Lanzarote
La Palma OCEAN
Tenerife Fuerteventura
El Hierro
La
Gomera Gran
Canaria
MOROCCO
0 200 km
GRAN CANARIA
La Isleta
Punta de Sardina
La Guancha
Sardina del Norte GC-202 Bañaderos
Gáldar
GC-2
GC-207
Santa Maria de Guía GC-330 GC-20
ATLANTIC OCEAN GC-2
GC-2
LAS PALMAS
GC-2 Moya Arucas
GC-300
Puerto de las Nieves Firgas
Agaete Vergara
GC-220
Los Tilos GC-21
N
de
GC-30
r
e
V GC-100 GC-1
n GC-200
é Pinar de
d Tamadaba
n Tafira Alta
A (1444m) Valleseco Teror
e Monte Lentiscal
Th
El Risco
GC-42
GC-21
Santa Brigida
Mirador del Balcón PARQUE NATURAL
La Atalaya
Punta de la Aldea DE TAMADABA Cruz de
Tejada
Puerto de la Aldea GC-15 Vega de San Mateo Valle de San Roque Telde GC-10
Tejada Melenara
GC-41
Valsequillo de
San Nicolás Roque Nublo Gran Canaria
de Tolentino (1813m) GC-100
GC-200 GC-60
Pico de
las Nieves
Playa de (1949m)
arr
B
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de Tirajana Gran Canaria
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te
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r
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eT
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er
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GC-191
Ba ne PARQUE NATURAL
Ve
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co
GC-200 DE PILANCONES
Ba r
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ran
Ba
GC-65
co
GC-505 GC-60
Arinaga
de
a ja
Tir
na Vecindarío
Metres
ineuín
1800
a
de Argu
Barranco de Fatag
GC-1
1600 Puerto de Mogán GC-500
Barranco
1400 Juan Grande

1200
Playa de los Amadores
1000 Puerto Rico
800
GC-1
San Agustín
600 Arguineguín ATLANTIC OCEAN
GC-500 Maspalomas Playa del Ingles
400
Playa de Inglés
200
0 LAS DUNAS DE 0 5 km
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ROUGHGUIDES

Rough Guide DIRECTIONS

WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

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Basking in gentle subtropical temperatures and year-

왔 Banana plantations, Arucas

왖 Las Palmas The Cumbre

Playa de Aldea, west coast

Santa Maria de Guía, the north

made beaches and the highest

Valleseco to the luxuriant banana

thrills of the spectacular

 The Andén Verde

 Eat fresh fish

Pacha, Playa del Inglés

Calle La Pelota, Vegueta,

 Salsa in Las Palmas Chinawhite, Playa del

Handicrafts at the Fedac

The food hall at

Bar of the Hotel Madrid,

 La Parada, Puerto Rico Terrazas of the Parque

 The café in the Parque

 El Viento, Pozo Izquierdo

 Sunset at the Montaña de A walk along the shore to

Gloria Palace, Amadores

 Hotel Rural Las Calas,

Casa Montesdeoca, Las

 Folk dancing at the Pueblo Fiestas del Carmen

 Catedral de Santa Ana, Las

 San Juan Bautista, Arucas

Los Azulejos, Mogán

Painted hillsides of Las

Explore the Jardín Canario

 A jeep safari in the

Holiday World funfair

Museo Elder, Las Palmas

has its scene

The Yumbo Centre

The Barranco de Moya

 Sunset over the

Canarian lateen sailing

 Surfing and bodyboarding Sailing

Las Palmas: Vegueta

P L A C ES Las Palmas: Vegueta and Triana

Avenida Marítima and Playa the harbour. At its southern end

Visiting Vegueta and Triana

San Telmo Estación

PLAZA BR Pensión Perojo B

CON Casa Museo

La Casa del Habano b D IO S Mercado

SAN NICOLÁS SAN MA

Casa Montesdeoca 13 LOS BALCON

Cho Zacarias 16 SA CAAM

Casa Constorales Santa Ana

DA PL. ESPÍRITU DR. CHIL

AN VER GARCIA TELLO

The Rough Guides' Gran Canaria Directions 1 (Rough Guide Directions) ( PDFDrive )

The Rough Guides' Gran Canaria Directions 1 (Rough Guide Directions) ( PDFDrive )

The Rough Guides' Gran Canaria Directions 1 (Rough Guide Directions) ( PDFDrive )

The Andén Verde

Eat fresh fish

Salsa in Las Palmas Chinawhite, Playa del

La Parada, Puerto Rico Terrazas of the Parque

The café in the Parque

El Viento, Pozo Izquierdo

Sunset at the Montaña de A walk along the shore to

Hotel Rural Las Calas,

Folk dancing at the Pueblo Fiestas del Carmen

Catedral de Santa Ana, Las

San Juan Bautista, Arucas

A jeep safari in the

Sunset over the

Surfing and bodyboarding Sailing