Ci1006_survey_leather_goods

Leather Goods
A SURVEY OF THE NETHERLANDS AND OTHER SELECTED MARKETS IN THE EUROPEAN UNION
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LEATHER GOODS
A SURVEY OF THE NETHERLANDS

AND OTHER SELECTED MARKETS
IN THE EUROPEAN UNION
Compiled for CBI by:
Searce
In collaboration with
B.E. Taggenbrock
August 1999
DISCLAIMER
The information provided in this survey is believed to be accurate at the time of writing.
It is, however, passed on to the reader without any responsibility on the part of CBI or the
authors and it does not release the reader from the obligation to comply with all applicable
legislation.
Neither CBI not the authors of this publication make any warranty, expressed or implied,
concerning the accuracy of the information presented, and will not be liable for injury or
claims pertaining to the use of this publication or the information contained therein.
No obligation is assumed for updating or amending this publication for any reason, be it
new or contrary information or changes in legislation, regulations or jurisdiction.
Update of CBI market survey “Leather goods” (November 1996)

CONTENTS
REPORT SUMMARY 5
1 INTRODUCTION 9
2 PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS 11
2.1 Product groups 11
2.2 Customs/statistical product classification 11
3 THE NETHERLANDS MARKET 13

3.1 Consumption 13
3.1.1 Market size 13
3.1.2 Market segmentation 14
3.1.3 Consumption patterns and trends 18
3.2 Production 20
3.3 Imports 21
3.3.1 Total imports 22
3.3.2 Imports by product 23
3.3.3 The role of developing countries 28
3.4 Exports 29
3.5 Trade structure 30
3.6 Prices and margins 34
3.6.1 Prices 34
3.6.2 Margins 34
3.6.3 Sources of price information 35
4 THE EUROPEAN UNION MARKET 36

4.1 The European market summary 36
4.2 Profile of the major EU markets 42
4.2.1 Germany 42
4.2.2 France 45
4.2.3 Italy 47
4.2.4 United Kingdom 50
4.2.5 Belgium 53
4.2.6 Spain 54
3
5 ACCESS TO THE EUROPEAN UNION MARKET 56
5.1 Quality and grading standards 56
5.2 Packaging, marking and labelling 57
5.3 Trade-related environmental measures 58
5.4 Child labour and leather goods 62
5.5 Tariffs and quotas 62
5.6 Terms of the trade 64
5.6.1 The contract 64
5.6.2 Payment methods and delivery terms 64
5.6.3 Business practice 66
5.7 Promotion 68
5.7.1 Trade fairs 68
5.7.2 Trade press 69
5.7.3 Assistance with market entry 70
5.8 Checklist 71
APPENDICES
1 Detailed import/export statistics 72
2 Standards organisations 84
3 Sources of price information 86
4 Trade associations 87
5 Trade fair organisers 90
6 Trade press 92
7 Trade promotion organisations 94
8 Other useful addresses 96
9 List of developing countries 99
10 List of Netherlands importers 101
11 Useful links 115
4
REPORT SUMMARY
This market survey covers leather and travel goods sold by specialist retailers, department
stores and other outlets, most of which also sell some garments like belts and gloves.
Because the leather branch not only deals exclusively with leather, but also encompasses
all sorts of products made from textiles, "artificials" - (plastic, nylon, vulcanised fibre) and
paperboard, in increasingly larger proportions, these products are also included in this
survey. The leather goods covered in this survey are:
Product groups Products
Handbags È Handbags with and without shoulder strap.

Small leather goods È Wallets, purses, billfolds, key/tobacco pouches,
cigarette cases.
Briefcases È Briefcases, attaché cases, portfolios, school bags.
Gloves È Protective, fashionable and special sports gloves.
Belts È Waist belts, shoulder belts.
Travel goods È Travel bags, rucksacks, sports bags, toilet and body-bags*
Suitcases È Suitcases, trunks, vanity or beauty cases.
Other bags/cases/boxes È Shopping bags, tool bags, jewellery boxes,
cases for maps, cutlery, binoculars, cameras, computers,
instruments, phone holsters.
* Rucksack/cross-over bags with a wide strap/belt, worn on the back, stomach or side, which are
known in Dutch trade as "body-bags", not to be confused with the body bags that are used to
transport corpses.
Consumption
The European Union ranks among the leading markets for leather goods in the world.
In 1997, EU demand for leather goods was roughly estimated to be around US$ 7,000 million.
The EU leather goods market is dominated by 4 countries, which in 1997 together
accounted for 62 per cent of the total EU retail sales: Germany (20%), France (16%), Italy
(16%) and United Kingdom (10%). The EU leather industry fared badly in the recession in
the mid-1990s, when the majority of goods manufactured of leather were regarded as non-
essential luxury items. A healthier economy combined with increased fashion
consciousness and more variety in the design both of goods manufactured of leather and
non-leather materials (nylon, fibre, and textiles) has given a strong impulse to this mature
market. To keep up with the latest fashion trends, consumers often replace leather goods
even when this is not strictly necessary. Demand for travellers’ requisites (suitcases, travel
bags, rucksacks and computer cases) has increased vigorously as more people travel on
holiday or business. More women in business has meant an increased demand for brief and
document cases and other office-related cases. The overall demand for bags/cases/holders
for computers, mobile phones and other kinds of office accessories has increased.
5
In 1997, Dutch consumers spent US$ 482 million, or around US$ 32 per head on leather
goods and luggage. This is an increase of 20 per cent in value compared to US$ 410 million
in 1991. Between 1991 and 1997, the market share of women’s handbags in leather
decreased from 31 to 25 per cent of total leather goods sales. During that period,
independent retailers broadened their range of products by selling more travel goods and
by 1997 these occupied 33 per cent of the Dutch market for leather goods. In 1997,
independent retailers and department stores each held one third of the Dutch market,
while the remainder was shared by a growing number of other outlets (drug stores, fashion
stores, supermarkets and shoe shops).
Production
In 1997, the total value of EU production, at factory prices, amounted to US$ 4,676 million.
Italy accounted for more than 50 per cent of this total, of which handbags are the main
items produced. Other large EU producers of leather goods are Germany, France and the
United Kingdom. Since the late 1980s, there has been a continuous decrease in the EU’s
total output of leather goods. Particularly for high volume items (bags, travel goods, small
leather goods), the production of leather goods has often been shifted to East European
countries and Asia. It is well known that some products, carrying the world’s leading
European brands or private brands of large retailers, are now produced (though not
designed) under franchise or licence in developing countries because of low labour costs.
The EU leather goods industry has been threatened by enormous price competition from
large supplying countries like China, India and Pakistan. As a consequence, the EU
industry now concentrates on the production and marketing of high quality leather goods,
which need excellent technological control, good design and an ability to set trends
(in Italy and France) and to anticipate the needs of consumers. In 1997, the total sales
value of Dutch production amounted to US$ 40 million, consisting mainly of women’s
handbags, small leather goods and a few fashion items like belts.
Imports
In 1997, the EU imported more than 25 per cent of the total world imports of leather goods,
or 529 thousand tonnes with a value of US$ 5,094 million. Germany, which imports almost
one quarter of this total, is the largest EU market for leather goods: 120,115 tonnes, with a
value of US$ 1,222 million in 1997. Germany is followed by France (18% of EU imports
in 1997), the United Kingdom (17%), Italy (9%), The Netherlands (6%), Belgium (7%) and
Spain (5%). Almost all EU countries increased their imports of travel goods, especially in
1997, when there was strong demand for travel goods and other bags/cases/boxes made of
textiles and plastic, which together account for the majority of EU imports. Between 1995 and
1997, most EU countries imported an increasing amount of briefcases, small leather goods,
gloves and belts. A note has to be made with respect to the use and interpretation of the
figures of gloves in this market survey. A large percentage (volume 91 per cent and value
62 per cent in 1997) of the gloves imported by the EU are protective gloves. China is the
major supplier to the EU with a total of US$ 2,164 million in 1997 – or almost half of the
EU imports of all leather goods. Next to China, India, other EU countries, Hong Kong,
Vietnam and the USA are important suppliers of leather goods.
More than half of the leather goods imported by The Netherlands is re-exported, mainly to
6
other EU countries. In 1997, Dutch imports amounted to a total of US$ 330 million, of
which 40 per cent came from Hong Kong, 24 per cent from China and 20 per cent from
other EU countries (Belgium and Germany). The remainder was supplied by India, USA,
Indonesia, Taiwan, Pakistan, Vietnam and Eastern Europe.
Exports
In 1997, the total value of the EU exports was US$ 4,369 million, of which 42 per cent
went to other EU countries. Between 1995 and 1997, the total of EU exports grew by
12 per cent in value. Italy and France are both major producers and are the largest exporters
of leather goods in the EU. Other large exporting countries are Belgium, Germany and
The Netherlands. Handbags form almost 40 per cent of the EU export value. Other important
leather goods exported by the EU were: small leather goods, travel goods, suitcases and
belts. Major destinations were other EU countries, Japan, USA and Hong Kong.
Being the fourth largest exporting country, The Netherlands exported 21,886 tonnes of
leather goods in 1997, valued at US$ 220 million. Other EU countries purchased around
88 per cent of Dutch exports, mainly Germany (34%), Belgium (17%) and France (13%),
of which the greatest part was suitcases, travel goods and briefcases.
Developing countries
The developing countries’ share of global trade in leather goods has increased enormously
in the last two decades. In Asia, leather goods were developed as an extension of the textile
industry, which requires the importation of raw materials. Producing finished leather
goods, therefore, can be a profitable industry for developing countries, especially for those
that already produce hides and skins. Instead of exporting hides and skins as semi-finished
materials, these countries make higher profits by producing finished leather goods.
In 1997, developing countries supplied 339,315 tonnes, or 64 per cent of the total EU
volume of imports, with a total value of US$ 2,767 million. All the leather goods except
belts were sourced in developing countries, which supply more than half the gloves (out of
which 91 per cent of the EU volume and 88 per cent of the EU value in 1997 for protective
gloves), travel goods (especially rucksacks and sports bags), other bags/cases, briefcases
and small leather goods to the EU. Travel goods represented 28 per cent of the total
imported from developing countries in 1997. Next to China, India and Vietnam, other
important suppliers were Pakistan (gloves), Thailand (handbags), South Korea (bags),
Indonesia (suitcases), Turkey (belts), Philippines (gloves), Morocco (handbags) and
Tunisia (handbags).
The Netherlands imported 16,331 tonnes of leather goods from developing countries in
1997, with a total value of US$ 113 million. Between 1995 and 1997, Dutch imports of
leather goods from developing countries increased in volume from 33 to 42 per cent.
This was due to an increase in imports, mainly of briefcases and travel goods, from China,
India, Indonesia, Vietnam, Malaysia and Tunisia.
7
Market prospects
A healthier economy and increased optimism both stimulate consumer spending on
non-essential items, either for first-time purchases or as replacements. As the countries of
the EU become one market and competition increases, EU manufacturers and large
importers/wholesalers increasingly look for production or sub-contracting in countries with
low labour costs. However, exporters from developing countries should note that there are
still large differences in demand between the countries of the EU.
Opportunities
The largest potential for growth is likely to be in travel goods (rucksacks, body-bags,
sports bags), brief/document cases and office related cases/holders (i.e. for computers or
mobile phones). More demand is expected for goods made of combinations of leather and
synthetic materials. Increased consciousness about fashion will force manufacturers to pay
growing attention to style, design and the introduction of more extravagant models of
leather goods. In future, consumers in most EU countries are expected to be more
conscious of quality and brands, especially in goods made of real leather. Buyers will
carefully select the goods they buy, based on the quality of leather, defects, coating,
shines and the print possibilities of cheaper kinds of leather.
As fashion changes twice a year and fashion items need to be exactly right in design and
colour, it is very difficult for exporters to penetrate this market successfully. Exporters
should seek the co-operation of EU manufacturers, particularly for the low – medium
quality/price segment of the market for leather goods. In this way, EU manufacturers can
take care of the sales/marketing and stocking side of the business, leaving exporters to
concentrate on the production and delivery of the goods.
Constraints
The main problem to be overcome by developing countries wishing to export to the EU is
competition from established EU suppliers. The EU already has experienced producers
(Italy, France and Germany) with the specialised skills for fine leather craftsmanship and a
comprehensive understanding of fast-changing market needs. Protectionist measures may
be brought to bear by industrialised countries when products are imported into the EU,
so the quality of the product is extremely important and products should meet the safety
standard Directive 92/59/EC. Consumers in some EU countries such as Germany,
France and Italy prefer products made in their own country to those which are imported.
Products from developing countries are likely to be affected by a growing consumer
consciousness of environmentally friendly production methods for leather goods and their
antipathy towards the use of child labour.
Nevertheless there definitely are possibilities for exporters from developing countries to
penetrate the EU market. The chances are particularly high if exporters take a step-by-step
approach with a view to establishing a long-term business relationship with their partners
in the EU. Hopefully this report can be of help to exporters from developing countries in
deciding whether or not it is worthwhile to export to The Netherlands or to other EU countries,
and that the information provided may assist them in taking the first concrete steps.
8
1 INTRODUCTION
This survey deals with the Netherlands and European Union (EU) markets for leather goods.
Its main purpose is to provide exporters in developing countries with a better insight into
this competitive market. It should assist them to find the right market opportunities and to
become familiar with the most suitable market segments for their leather goods.
The main product groups, which are covered in this survey, are explained in chapter 2,
along with their classification for Customs and statistical purposes.
Chapter 3 starts with a brief general review of market size, trends, segments, influences on
consumer behaviour, giving an idea of the demand in the Dutch market for leather goods.
The following section in this chapter reviews production and significant trade and includes
import and export statistics. Detailed information is also given on the role of developing
countries in Dutch imports of leather goods. The remainder of this chapter profiles the
trade structure of the main Dutch importers, wholesalers and retailers, including recent
developments, and gives an overview of prices and margins at different distribution levels.
Chapter 4 reviews the EU market as a whole and highlights the similarities and differences
between the national markets for leather goods. It also reviews production, imports and
exports and the role of developing countries in EU imports is explained in more detail.
The main part of this chapter outlines the larger individual markets for leather goods:
Germany, France, United Kingdom, Italy, Spain and Belgium.
Chapter 5 covers some more practical issues of access to the Netherlands and EU markets
for exporters from developing countries. Information is given on regulations and quality
standards for imported leather goods and suggestions are made for environmentally sound
products for the Dutch market. This chapter concludes with a series of practical tips
concerning the business practices and promotional tools often used in the leather industry.
A list of names and addresses of relevant trade fairs and magazines is included, along with
a checklist showing the most important topics for exporters in developing countries.
It is important to note that since the establishment of the single EU market on January 1,
1993, the collection of data regarding trade flows has become more difficult. Prior to that
date, trade was registered through compulsory Customs procedures at border crossings.
Due to the removal of the intra-EU borders, this is no longer the case, so statistical bodies
like Eurostat can no longer depend on the automatic generation of trade figures. In the case
of intra-EU trade, statistical reporting is only compulsory for exporting and importing
firms whose trade exceeds a certain annual value. This threshold varies considerably from
country to country, but it is typically about US$ 113,000 (ECU 100,000). Statistical
information on trade within the EU is consequently underestimated and must be carefully
interpreted.
9
On 1 January 1999, the euro (€) became the legal currency within eleven EU member
states participating in the euro area: Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Italy,
Ireland, Luxembourg, The Netherlands, Spain, and Portugal. Their national currencies
have become subdivisions of the euro, but will continue to circulate as legal tender until
2002. Circulation of euro coins and banknotes begins 1 January 2002 replacing gradually
national currency notes and coins, which must be withdrawn by 1 July 2002 at the latest.
Currently, banking is possible both in euro and national currency.
The most recent Eurostat trade statistics described in this survey date from 1998. In that
year, the European Currency Unit (ECU) was still used as a monetary instrument by
financial institutions to simplify financial procedures. On 1 January 1999, statistical and
contractual values in ECU were converted into euro on a 1:1 exchange rate. The € / US$
exchange rate currently (June 1999) stands at US$ 1.07 for one euro.
In this market survey, the US$ is the basic currency used to indicate values. Values dating
after 1 January 1999 are also expressed in euro.
Exchange rates of EU currencies in US$
Country Currency 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 June 1999
European Union ECU 1.18 1.29 1.25 1.13 1.12 –

Euro (€) – – – – – 1.07
Austria Ash 0.0876 0.0988 0.0943 0.0820 0.0809 0.0779
Belgium Bfr 0.0309 0.0339 0.0322 0.0279 0.0276 0.0265
Denmark Dkr 0.157 0.178 0.172 0.151 0.149 0.144
France Ffr 0.180 0.200 0.195 0.171 0.170 0.164
Finland FM 0.192 0.228 0.217 0.193 0.187 0.180
Germany DM 0.616 0.696 0.663 0.577 0.569 0.548
Greece GRD 0.00412 0.00429 0.00414 0.00364 0.003383 0.00329
Ireland I£ 1.49 1.60 1.60 1.52 1.42 1.36
Italy L 0.000620 0.000613 0.000647 0.000588 0.000577 0.000554
Netherlands NLG 0.549 0.621 0.592 0.513 0.505 0.487
Portugal Esc 0.00604 0.00665 0.00645 0.00569 0.00556 0.00535
Spain Ptas 0.00747 0.00801 0.00787 0.00682 0.00672 0.00645
Sweden Skr 0.130 0.140 0.149 0.131 0.126 0.121
United Kingdom GB£ 1.53 1.57 1.56 1.64 1.66 1.61
Source: CBS Statline (July 1999)
10
2 PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS
2.1 Product groups

The products covered in this report are those made of tanned, coloured and/or finished
leather of hides (bovine or equine animals) and of skins (sheep, goat, pigs, reptiles etc.).
The main focus will be on leather and travel goods sold by specialist retailers, department
stores and other outlets, most of which also sell some garments like belts and gloves.
Other leather garments, footwear or upholstery leathers are not covered here.
Information on related products can be found in the following CBI market surveys:
● Leather garments
● Hides and skins
The leather branch not only deals exclusively with leather, but encompasses all sorts of
products made of textiles, artificial materials (plastic, nylon, vulcanised fibre) and paper
board. In some product groups these materials account for large proportions and are,
therefore, included in this survey. However, in trade statistics, products made of leather
will be more emphasized and product groups are basically ranged in the sequence below:
Product groups Products Leather*
Handbags È Handbags with and without shoulder strap. 27%

Small leather goods È Wallets, purses, billfolds, key pouches, 30%
cigarette cases, tobacco pouches.
Briefcases È Briefcases, attaché cases, portfolios, school bags. 20%
Gloves È Fashionable and special sports gloves. 100%
Belts È Waist belts, shoulder belts. 100%
Travel goods È Travel bags, rucksacks, sports bags, 2%
toilet and body-bags**
Suitcases È Suitcases, trunks, vanity or beauty cases. 4%
Other bags/cases/boxes È Shopping bags, tool bags, jewellery or cutlery boxes, 6%
map cases, cutlery cases, cases for binoculars,
computers cameras, musical instruments, phone holsters.
* Made of leather or imitation leather as per cent of EU import volume in 1997.

** Rucksack/cross-over bags with a wide strap/belt, worn on the back, stomach or side, which are
known in Dutch trade as "body-bags", not to be confused with the body bags that are used to
transport corpses.
2.2 Customs/statistical product classification

The classification system used for both Customs and statistical purposes in
The Netherlands and the EU member countries is the Harmonised Commodity Description
and Coding system (HS).
11
Table 2.1 gives a list of the main HS codes for leather goods, most of which can be found
in Chapter 42 of the Harmonised System. The relevant HS code groups for leather goods
covered in this report are:
Table 2.1 HS code classification of leather goods
HS Codes Product group
4202 11 10 Briefcases, attaché cases, portfolios, school bags and similar containers
of leather or imitation
12 11 Briefcases etc. of plastic sheeting
12 91 Briefcases etc. of plastic, vulcanized fibre or textile
11 90 Suitcases, trunks, vanity cases, similar containers of leather or imitation
12 19 Suitcases etc. of plastic sheeting
12 50 Suitcases etc. of moulded plastic
12 99 Suitcases etc. of plastic or textile
19 10 Suitcases, trunks, vanity cases, briefcases, attaché cases, school bags,
bags or similar containers of aluminium
19 90 Suitcases, briefcases etc. of other material
21 00 Handbags, with or without shoulder straps, incl. those with handles
of leather or imitation
22 10 Handbags of plastic sheeting
22 90 Handbags of fabric
29 00 Handbags of vulcanised fibre, paper or paperboard
31 00 Small leather goods: wallets, purses, key pouches, tobacco pouches or
similar articles carried in the pocket or handbag, of leather or imitation
32 10 Small leather goods: wallets etc. of plastic sheeting
32 90 Small leather goods: wallets etc. of textile
39 00 Small leather goods: wallets etc. of vulcanised fibre,
paper or paperboard incl. spectacle cases of moulded plastic
91 10 Travel bags, toilet bags, rucksacks, sports, body-bags of leather or imitation
92 11 Travel bags, toilet bags, rucksacks, sports, body-bags of plastic sheeting
92 91 Travel bags, toilet bags, rucksacks, sports, body-bags of textile
91 80 Other bags: shopping bags, tool bags, jewellery or cutlery boxes,
map cases cutlery cases, cases for binoculars, musical instruments,
cameras, phone holsters and similar containers of leather or imitation
92 15 Musical instrument cases of plastic sheeting
92 19 Other bags: shopping bags, tool bags etc. of plastic sheeting
92 98 Other bags: shopping bags, tool bags etc. of textile
99 00 Travel bags and other bags/cases/boxes of vulcanised fibre,
paperboard or other material
4203 21 00 Gloves, special sports gloves of leather or imitation

29 00 Gloves, mittens and mits of leather or imitation
30 00 Belts, waist belts and shoulder belts of leather or imitation
12
3 THE NETHERLANDS MARKET
3.1 Consumption
3.1.1 Market size

The Netherlands is a densely populated country, which had 15.7 million inhabitants and
a total GDP of US$ 362 billion in 1997. In the same year, Dutch consumers spent
US$ 482 million, or around US$32 per head on leather goods and luggage. This is an
increase of 20 per cent in value and 13 per cent in volume compared to 1991 (see figure
3.1). A healthier economy, combined with more variety in designs of leather goods and of
non-leather materials (nylon, fibre, and textile) has given a strong impulse to the mature
market for leather goods. Because of lower prices and increased sales through department
stores, a larger group of consumers has been exposed to leather goods.
To keep up with the latest fashion trends, consumers often replace leather goods even
when this is not strictly necessary. Demand for travellers’ requisites (suitcases, travel bags
and rucksacks) increased vigorously as more people travelled on holiday or business.
More women in business has meant an increased demand for brief cases, document cases,
portfolios and small leather goods, while their higher disposable incomes have created
an increased demand for high quality leather handbags. The overall demand for
bags/cases/boxes/holders for computers, mobile phones and other kinds of office
accessories has increased.
Figure 3.1 Market for leather goods in The Netherlands 1991-1997,

Value in US$ million
US $ million 482
410 408
1991 1995 1997
Note: Market values are based on retail prices and include Value Added Tax (VAT)
Source: EIM (1998)
13
As their disposable income rises and the price of leather goods has decreased slightly,
Dutch people are tending to buy more travel bags, rucksacks (especially the more
fashionable types), briefcases, sports bags, body-bags, suitcases and other cases. Although
many people still regard real leather goods as a luxury item, demand is expected to
increase. This especially applies to rucksacks, small leather goods and, to a lesser extent,
to handbags. An increase in the market for handbags manufactured of artificial "leather" is
expected, along with an increased demand for handbags containing combinations
of leather and other materials in a larger range of designs, styles, brands and colours.
3.1.2 Market segmentation
Segmentation by product
The market for leather goods can be segmented into product groups (see figure 3.2).
The market share allocated to each group is based on sales made by Dutch independent
retailers, whose turnover in 1997 amounted to US$ 145 million, or one third of the total
Dutch market. Product assortments of department stores are not included in this figure, but
their share in the total Dutch market was considerable, being around 30 per cent in 1997.
Department stores mainly sell travel bags, rucksacks, sports bags, small leather goods,
suitcases and handbags. Sales of the leather goods by other outlets are also excluded in
figure 3.2.
Figure 3.2 Market shares by product group in The Netherlands in 1991 and 1997
Per cent of market value (1991: US$ 410 million, 1997: US$ 482 million)
1991 1997
Ladies handbags Ladies handbags

31% 25%
Briefcases Briefcases
11% 12%
Travel goods Travel goods

32% 33%
Small leather goods Small leather goods
11% 12%
Accessoiries Accessoiries
Belts, gloves and repair Belts, gloves and repair
7% 8% 7% 11%
Source: EIM (1998)
● Women’s handbags
Between 1991 and 1997, the share of women’s handbags made of leather decreased from
31 to 25 per cent in total sales of leather goods. The main reason is that independent retailers
broadened their range of products by selling more travel goods, briefcases, gloves, umbrellas
and handbags in artificials (fabric, plastic sheeting, cardboard or fibre). Apart from
functionality, the shape of handbags and belts is largely determined by fashion, but there is a
constant demand for sturdy, well-finished, classical items with uncomplicated design.
14
Large and small "softline" bags are now very popular. These contain compartments closed
by a zipper. Stitching should be straight, in vertical lines and not in contrasting colours.
Small bags are used mainly by young people. Soft bags usually have a long, adjustable
shoulder strap, worn over one shoulder, but are also increasingly carried under the arm on
short shoulder straps. The length of shoulder straps varies with the design of the bag.
The latest handbag fashion and design can be found in international magazines, such as
Arpel, Lederwaren Report and Lederwaren Zeitung (see address, Appendix 6).
Dutch women have a habit of filling their handbags, so exporters are advised to make
shoulder straps and fasteners which are strong enough to remain closed when the bag is
full. It is also important that bags remain securely closed to allay consumer fears of pick
pocketing. Decorative closures and strap fittings of brass, silver or platinum with a matt
finish have grown in popularity. Handbags with flap-over closing are favourites but
fashion handbags with metal frames for closing are gaining appeal. Manufacturers should
use high quality fittings and magnetic fasteners. When zips are used, they should be long
enough to allow items to be easily removed. It is recommended that nylon zippers in the
same colours as the bag are used. Linings in soft quality leather, silk or artificial silk are
preferred, although other lining materials are acceptable, if they are the same, or matching,
colour as the outside material. Leather bags should have a smooth, shiny surface and not
be dull. Exporters are advised to avoid producing sample handbags in fashionable colours,
as fashions change so quickly.
Small leather goods

Between 1991 and 1997, small leather goods slightly increased their share in the leather
goods market from 11 to 12 per cent. Small leather goods are designed and purchased for
their functionality and do not change much in form. Dutch people handle a lot of coins,
so purses must have a compartment to accommodate both the very tiny Dutch 10 cent coin
alongside the big, heavy 21/2 and 5 guilder coins; women’s purses should have metal
frames. There should be at least four compartments: for credit cards, telephone cards,
club-member cards, whose size is international, like American Express or VISA. Dutch
banknotes measure: 76 x 152 mm.
Billfolds (wallets) with compartments for coins and credit cards are the most popular items
for men. Classical passport holders are not much in demand. Exporters should avoid using
embossed leather and stitching in contrasting colours. Items should be smoothly finished
by folding (including the skiving) instead of having cut edges. The most popular colours of
small leather goods are:
● for women’s items È black, dark brown, golden brown, navy blue, burgundy.
● for men’s items È black, golden brown, dark brown, burgundy.
The introduction of euro (€) coins and banknotes on January 1, 2002, may be a reason for
consumers to change their wallets, which will give a new impulse to this mature market
segment. There will be eight coins: of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents and 1 and 2 euros,
with diameters ranging from 16 to 25 mm. As there will be more different sizes of coins,
manufacturers have already developed new products, such as key cases with holders for
coins; tallones (a purse in the shape of a shoe heel); men’s wallets with enlarged coin
holders and women’s purses with bigger compartments. Euro banknotes, all of different
sizes and colours, will be issued in seven values in the following sizes:
15
Sizes of euro banknotes
5 euro = 120 x 62 mm 100 euro = 147 x 82 mm

10 euro = 127 x 67 mm 200 euro = 153 x 82 mm
20 euro = 133 x 72 mm 500 euro = 160 x 82 mm
50 euro = 140 x 77 mm
● Briefcases (attaché cases, document cases, portfolios)

The share of this segment grew from 11 to 12 per cent between 1991 and 1997, with steady
and continuing growth in sales in department stores and office centres. Attaché cases are
still popular, but document and briefcases are increasingly fashionable. Briefcases should
have two solid combination locks and both locks and fittings should be of good quality.
Linings in men’s items are preferred in fine leather (not too bulky) or artificial silk.
Standard writing paper measures 31 x 21 cm (A4). Brief cases should have the possibility
of containing two sheets of this paper, packed next to each other. Men’s shoulder bags
should have a handle on top and a rather long shoulder strap. The wrist straps on men’s
purses to be held in the hand should be rather wide. However, the demand for both men’s
shoulder bags, and wrist bags has declined recently. Exporters should supply sample
products in this segment in black, golden brown, dark brown and burgundy.
● Travel goods (suitcases, travel bags, body-bags, rucksacks)

Most leather goods sold in The Netherlands between 1991 and 1997 were in this category,
its market share increased from 32 to 33 per cent. This is expected to increase in future as
Dutch people travel more. Since the mid 1990s, increasing amounts of travel goods have
also been sold by department stores, mail order houses or other large retail outlets.
The majority of these goods is made, not of leather, but of artificial materials. To prevent
pick pocketing, the latest models of rucksacks have a large zipper which is worn next to
the owner’s back. Body-bags are rucksack-like bags with a wide belt, which are worn
cross-over the shoulder along the body for example at the persons’ back, stomach or side.
They are very popular among young people and often the cross-over bags, which are also
included here, have a special built-in holder for a mobile phone.
The main sizes for classical suitcases are: È 70 and 75 cm (with wheels)
È 60 and 65 cm (without wheels)
Classical suitcases with 2 or 4 wheels (at the bottom) have lost a large share of the market,
because of the growing popularity of the "trolley-case", which has two wheels at the rear
and an extendible handle, making it much easier to transport. Trolleys now hold the major
share of the suitcase segment. Airline companies use different maximum sizes for suitcases,
depending on the aircraft. In general, a size of 115 cm as total for length + height + width
are the maximum acceptable size for "cabin luggage". The 115 cm can be divided as
55 + 40 + 20 cm or 55 + 35 + 25 cm respectively. Consumers prefer suitcases with nylon
or optilon zippers to metal zippers. Larger travelling bags should have two handles for
easy carrying and a rather long (removable) shoulder strap. "Patchwork" is completely
unacceptable for heavy travelling items.
16
Exporters are advised to offer sets of suitcases and other travelling items in the same
styling and colour combination. As garment bags are much in demand in The Netherlands,
exporters should add these when presenting their collection to Dutch buyers. The most
popular colours of suitcases are:
● leather items È saddle brown, black, chestnut
● artificial items È navy blue, green, red, black, grey.
Segmentation by user
Group Main characteristics
Children/Teenagers È They mainly buy school, sports bags and rucksacks.

(0-18 years) Rucksacks have now replaced the classical type of schoolbag.
Rucksacks should be trendy and carry a large logo of an
international brand. For this group, the functionality of
rucksacks seems to be of minor importance.
Young È They are very conscious about the latest trends and brands.
(18-30 years) Materials need to match the latest fashion. Most buy
non-leather goods because of lower prices and their trendy
colours. They like a logo, but less striking. Collections change
3-4 times per year and "old collections" cannot be sold after
the launch of a new one.
È Young people with a higher income like to show that they can
afford to buy very fashionable products in leather or in other
materials. They like to be different by choosing striking
designs, colours, and colour combinations. The price of
products seems to be of minor importance.
Lower income È They prefer low priced, products in artificials, which can be
(30-50 years) used over a long period of time; they choose items which are
functional and durable rather than fashionable. Logos on the
product should be as small as possible. They like classical
colours (black, brown and blue).
Average income È This group prefers functional products manufactured of real leather.
(30-50 years) They strongly prefer fashionable colours to classic colours,
but pay reasonable prices varying from US$ 51 - 77 for a bag.
Higher income È They prefer leather goods responding to the latest fashion.
(30-50 years) The price of products is of minor importance to them.
Designs and colours should not be too extreme. A logo on
the product is only accepted when it represents a well-known
brand of high quality, fitting well into their lifestyle.
Unknown or fancy brands are not accepted.
Older people È They are fairly classic in their buying habits and most people
(50+ years) do not like logos on the product, unless they are of world
famous brands like Gucci. Designs of leather goods should
be somewhere between classical and fashionable.
17
Although it is easy to classify people into different segments, it is harder to predict how
each group will behave and what they buy. The main reasons for this are the changes in
consumer behaviour, lifestyle and trends, which has led to demand in the leather goods
sector becoming increasingly fragmented. Although 70 per cent of leather goods is bought
by trend followers, new types of leather goods in different designs can be introduced.
These appeal to particular lifestyles, such as the youth market. The mass media also exerts
a stronger influence on product dynamics and on competition than it did in the past.
3.1.3 Consumption patterns and trends
● Fashion
Fashion sensitive products are the most profitable part of the leather goods business, where
quality or technical imperfections seem to be of minor importance. However, as materials,
colours, designs and sizes change quickly, short lead times from design to manufacture are
required. Since fashion changes every 6 months, it is difficult to give examples or
recommendations concerning trends in leather goods. The latest trends in fashion and
colours for the coming collection of leather goods can be found in international magazines,
of which addresses can be found in Appendix 6. Generally, two categories of leather goods
can be distinguished in terms of fashion:
Leather goods Characteristics for fashionable leather goods
Influenced by fashion:
È Handbags Classic fashion
È Belts – traditional colours
È Gloves – continuation of existing models with slight variations
È Rucksacks
È Briefcases Up-to-date fashion
È Travel bags – mass-bought fashion
È Sports, body-bags – products in accordance with latest trends in dressing
È Shopping bags – colour, design are as important as the prices
Highly individualistic fashion

– young or high income groups try out new products
– for very young people, price is important
– difficult for exporters to reach this market segment
– products in this market indicate future trends
– for next season’s products, up-to-date fashion
information about this market segment is necessary.
Hardly influenced by fashion:

È Small leather goods
È Suitcases
È Other bags, cases, boxes
18
● Prices
The Dutch market is well-known for the highly developed price consciousness of its
consumers, so importers should consider the price of a product in combination with
quality, materials, workmanship, finish, styling and so on. Because of the many different
types of leather and other elements mentioned above, a general guideline about prices
cannot be given. Sources of price information are fairs, catalogues from mail-order houses
(for travel and small leather goods), periodicals (for leather goods) and, of course, retail
shops and department stores. Here, margins at each distribution level, which are given in
chapter 3.6.2, should be taken into account.
● Materials
The material from which leather goods are made influences consumer behaviour.
Consumers compare the quality of materials with the prices charged. Expensive leather
goods are generally made of calf or good leather from cattle hides. Good imitations of
exotic leathers (or exotic combined with smooth leather) are in demand for up-to-date
fashion. Cheaper items may be made of lower quality cattle hides or goatskin. Split leather
is often used for brightly coloured, low-budget fashion items. Some fashion items might be
made of sheep leather.
For women’s handbags, there is a tendency towards the use of other materials or
"artificials", combined with leather. Trendy bags can be offered in the right colours at
relatively low prices. These artificials are often not available in developing countries and
purchasing them in small quantities is often not possible. Therefore, it is difficult for
exporters in developing countries to compete in this growing market segment. Pigskin is
normally used for lining in briefcases or attaché cases made of leather. In the case of lower
priced items for business purposes, split pigskin is often used. Travel items should be
produced in textiles or nylon; leather is only used for the more expensive items.
Real exotics like crocodile, lizard, snake, or ostrich leather etc. are not allowed to be
imported into The Netherlands, since some animals are protected by the Convention of
Washington (CITES), as is explained more in detail in Chapter 5.1. Good imitations of real
exotics are in demand for up-to-date fashion.
● Colours
The colours of fashion items generally change twice a year. Information about predicted
colours for the new seasons can generally be found in periodicals of international standard
like Lederwaren Report and Arpel (see address Appendix 6). Normally, the colour of leather
products follows the colours of the clothing and shoe-fashion industry. Exporters, who like
to make leather goods in fashionable colours, are advised to place orders at tanneries in good
time. In order to prevent discrepancies in desired colours, it is recommended that the precise
colours be ordered from tanneries in the EU. This is more expensive, but the risk of a slight
difference in colours or in material can be minimised. Discrepancies in colours or materials
are quickly recognised by buyers and consumers and eliminating them can be crucial for
success. Where there is likely to be a problem in purchasing the correct colours or materials,
the exporter can ask the EU manufacturer or importer to obtain the proper leather or other
materials, which can then be made in the right colours.
19
The classical fashion colours for non-fashion items, mostly are:
● For women’s items È Black, dark brown, golden brown (tan), navy blue.
● For men’s items È Black, dark brown, tan, burgundy.
● Seasons
There are two main seasons for fashion colours: winter and summer. About one year
before seasons begin, importers and producers start selecting colours and models. Italian
fairs for clothing and shoes are considered good indicators for the future fashion colours in
The Netherlands. The Offenbach Fair in Germany is used as a confirmation of choice.
In general, production has to begin six months before the season starts.
Buyers, particularly those making first–time purchases, will place a trial order 4-6 months
in advance and followed this with test sales of the product. If the product sells well,
substantial orders will be placed, but then the importer will expect delivery within
4-6 weeks! The main seasons for leather goods in the retail trade are shown below.
Product groups Period of peak sales
Handbags May, November, December

Briefcases August, September, December
Travel goods June, August
Suitcases May, June
Small leather goods May, December
Gloves, belts, accessories May, December
Decisions regarding fashionable products are made as late as possible, while less
fashionable items are bought at the beginning of the buying season. Highly fashionable
products are traded all the year round, with the exception of January and July, the months
in which retailers hold their clearance sales. (Although sales periods are no longer legally
enforced, many retailers still hold their sales in the months January and July).
● Finish
Leather finish depends on fashion, but certain general characteristics can be mentioned.
The leather must be soft, natural coloured, pleasant to the touch and processing or
manufacture should not impair its natural properties. Embossed leather is only acceptable
as a very good imitation of exotics. Fancy embossing is not accepted. An important
consideration in The Netherlands is the humid climate. The finish must be able to resist
rain as well as sunlight.
3.2 Production
Of all leather goods and luggage sold in the Dutch market, around three quarters is
foreign-made and the rest is locally produced. In 1997 there were around 150 leather goods
factories in The Netherlands, 50 of which mainly repaired leather goods. Most factories are
located in Waalwijk in the southern part of The Netherlands. In the same year, the total
sales of the Dutch leather industry amounted to US$ 40 million. Production concentrates
on women’s handbags and small leather goods. Fashion items like belts are also produced
in The Netherlands.
20
Since the 1970s, the whole Netherlands leather industry has suffered from international
competition from Eastern Europe, Asia and other low-cost countries. These countries
increasingly started to produce their own finished leather products and to sell them in
Asian and European markets. Present indications are that the leather industry will stagnate
in The Netherlands and that production will be further shifted to China, Indonesia,
Thailand, South Korea, Turkey and Morocco. These countries have few environmental
regulations and their tanners are hiring more formerly unemployed European tanners, i.e.
people who have the necessary skills and who know the needs of the EU market very well.
Since 1996, the core of the Dutch manufacturers, who survived competition and the total
restructure of the leather industry, has been stronger than before. In order to make a clear
distinction between its own products and those produced by the low cost countries,
the Netherlands’ leather industry has concentrated on high quality leather products, requiring
large investments. As in other northern EU countries, the Netherlands’ leather goods
industry will produce and market well-designed high quality leather goods in special colours.
Nowadays, production is often contracted out to Asian and, to a larger extent,

to East European countries, which manufacture various fast-moving leather goods
(small leather goods and travel goods) carrying the private brands of the importers,
buying groups or large chain stores.
3.3 Imports
All statistics presented in this section are official trade figures provided by Eurostat.
After the unification of the EU in 1992, Customs authorities stopped recording the
intra-EU trade in leather goods, and since then import and export figures have been based
on reports given by the companies themselves. In the case of intra-EU trade, statistical
reporting is only compulsory for Dutch exporting and importing firms, whose trade
exceeds US$ 113,000 (ECU 100,000). Smaller companies, whose trade is below this level,
are not obliged to report and are, therefore, excluded from these statistics. However,
the Customs authorities still register imports from non-EU sources so official statistics
only give an indication of major trends and of the relative importance of individual
importing countries, and do not represent the situation accurately.
The above implies that not all trade is included, especially when it concerns product
groups (small leather goods, handbags or belts) where there is a large number of small
transactions. Here a relatively large share of trade is under-represented.
The statistics specify total imports, divided into volumes/values sourced from EU countries
(intra-EU) and from non-EU countries (extra-EU) with the values/volumes coming from
developing countries (dev.countries). Developing countries, as defined by the OECD,
are listed in Appendix 9. Products made of real leather or imitation leather (handbags,
small leather goods, briefcases, gloves and belts) are emphasized in the statistics.
Therefore, product groups are ranged according to the sequence, as given in Chapter 2.1.
Appendix 1 lists detailed import statistics of The Netherlands and the EU, which includes
import figures of product groups more in detail, of the most important supplying countries
and of each product group separately.
21
3.3.1 Total imports
The Netherlands, as the fifth largest EU importer, accounted for 7 per cent of total EU imports
of leather goods in 1997. More than half of Dutch imports is re-exported, mainly to other
EU countries. In the same year, Dutch imports amounted to a total of US$ 330 million,
an increase of 22 per cent over imports in 1995, which was mainly due to higher demand
for briefcases, travel goods and small leather goods.
Table 3.1 Imports of leather goods by The Netherlands by product group, 1995-1997
Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997

Volume Value Volume Value Volume Value
Total 34,068 268,272 38,301 321,907 38,350 329,944

Intra-EU 5,016 59,256 4,945 65,163 5,245 59,570
Extra-EU 29,052 209,016 33,356 256,744 33,105 270,374
Developing countries 11,451 80,508 15,940 102,368 16,331 113,982
Handbags 6,509 55,025 6,401 59,574 3,118 37,080

Small leather goods 1,945 28,349 2,272 36,089 1,962 37,858
Briefcases 2,227 15,547 2,709 19,964 5,353 34,378
Gloves 3,127 24,905 3,479 30,391 2,981 32,464
Belts 247 6,479 231 6,591 246 7,626
Travel goods 8,220 66,081 9,701 86,689 9,706 88,623
Suitcases 6,741 41,103 7,987 46,536 8,400 47,441
Other bags/cases/boxes 5,052 30,782 5,521 36,073 6,584 44,474
Source: Eurostat (1999)
The significance of imported goods in this sector is constantly increasing, where Asian and
other EU countries are major suppliers for both leather goods in leather and in artificials.
In 1997, imports from other EU countries amounted to almost US$ 60 million, or 20 per
cent of total Dutch imports. Belgium and Germany are the main EU suppliers to
The Netherlands and mostly supply travel goods, suitcases, handbags and small leather
goods. The United Kingdom is the third EU supplier to The Netherlands, while Italy is an
important source for leather handbags and belts.
The majority of leather goods came from Hong Kong. Between 1995 and 1997 Dutch
imports from Hong Kong increased by 27 per cent to a total value of US$ 128 million.
Also a large proportion came from China. In the same period, The Netherlands imported
more leather goods from China and India. In 1997 developing countries supplied a total
value of US$ 113 million of leather goods to The Netherlands, or 16,331 tonnes, which
formed more than 40 per cent of the total Dutch import volume. Other important non-EU
suppliers are the USA, Taiwan and Eastern Europe.
22
The tendency among Dutch importers is to look for newer developing countries like
Vietnam, Tunisia, Turkey, Mexico, Argentina or other sources in South America or Africa,
where production costs are lower. In addition, Eastern Europe has made some gains, since
this region is closer to the Dutch market; transportation costs are low and thus compensate
higher material costs. Another advantage of the shorter distance is the ability to be quick
in responding to the faster changing market needs. The main producing countries are
Czech Republic, Poland, Hungary, Slovakia, Romania, Bulgaria and Estonia.
Most of these countries manufacture gloves, leather wallets, handbags and textile bags.
A detailed overview of the sources of Dutch imports can be found in Appendix 1.
The leading supplying non-EU countries are shown in figure 3.3.
Figure 3.3 Main non-EU suppliers of leather goods to The Netherlands, 1995-1997
Value in US$ 1,000
130 128
1995
120 1996
1997
110
100
90 88
80
70
60
50
40
30
24
20
12
10
6 5 5 5 4 3
0
Hong Kong China India USA Indonesia Taiwan Pakistan Vietnam South Czech
Korea Republic
3.3.2 Imports by product

The most important leather goods which The Netherlands imported in 1997 and their main
non-EU supplying countries are shown in figure 3.4. A breakdown of product groups in
detail (in terms of materials), imported by The Netherlands can be found in Appendix 1.
Import statistics of each product group separately, where supplies from developing
countries are being emphasized, can be found in Appendix 1as well. Dutch imports of each
product group can be briefly described as follows:
23
● Handbags
Demand for womens’ handbags in The Netherlands has decreased and there is a standstill
in the total Dutch market. In 1997, handbags accounted for 11 per cent of total Dutch
imports. In terms of value, handbags in leather form the largest part of Dutch imports,
as is shown below. However, on a volume basis, handbags in artificials are in the lead.
Womens’ handbags Volume per cent Value per cent
Leather or imitation 865 28% 15,533 42%

Plastic sheeting 907 29% 7,772 21%
Fabric surface 1,124 36% 11,474 31%
Cardboard or fibre 222 7% 2,301 6%
Note: Dutch imports of 1997 are given in tonnes and US$ 1,000.
Between 1995 and 1997, the volume of Dutch imports fell by more than half from
6,509 tonnes to 3,118 tonnes and decreased by 34 per cent in value. In 1995, more than
half of Dutch handbag imports came from Hong Kong and China, and were mostly
handbags in artificials. In 1996, prices of handbags from China were driven up by the
enormous anti-dumping levies on imported handbags in leather and in artificials.
The same applied to the imported bags from Hong Kong, since it was united with China
in 1997. Dutch imports of handbags in artificials (plastic sheeting, fabric surface) from
these countries have, in particular, drastically decreased. Still Hong Kong and China are
leading the supplies to The Netherlands as is shown in figure 3.4. However, imports from
other countries like Pakistan, Turkey, Taiwan, USA and other EU countries slightly
increased between 1995 and 1997.
Despite the drop in the total imported handbags, the volume of Dutch imports of
handbags in leather increased by 30 per cent, reaching a level of 865 tonnes in 1997
valued at US$ 15 million. The main supplying countries for handbags in leather are India,
Hong Kong, Thailand, Italy, Germany, Switzerland, Spain, Czech Republic and Hungary.
● Small leather goods

Imports of small leather goods increased, between 1995 and 1997, by 30 per cent reaching
a total value of US$ 38 million, representing 11 per cent of all Dutch imported leather
goods. Most wallets, purses and holders sold in The Netherlands are made of real leather.
In value, almost half of Dutch imports are small leather goods in leather or imitation,
as is shown below.
Small leather goods Volume per cent Value per cent

Plastic sheeting 503 26% 6,016 16%
Textile surface 686 35% 10,399 27%
Cardboard or fibre 181 9% 2,023 6%
Note: Dutch imports of 1997 are given in tonnes and US$ 1,000
24
It is expected that the consumption of wallets, purses will slightly increase, but the large
market potential will be in other small leather goods like key holders and in other
segments, such as the gift markets, especially items for promotional purposes.
In terms of volume, Dutch imports of small leather goods showed a fluctuating pattern,
with a temporary increase in 1996 of small leather goods of textile material and in leather.
In the same period, fewer small leather goods in artificials (plastic, cardboard and fibre
sheeting) were imported by The Netherlands. Hong Kong and China were the leading
suppliers for small leather goods, as is shown in figure 3.4. In 1997, the share of
Hong Kong in the total Dutch import value was 43 per cent, while its share in volume was
58 per cent. An important supplier of wallets, purses and holders in leather was India,
which was in 1997 the second largest supplier to The Netherlands with a total export value
of US$ 9 million. Important developing countries for goods in leather were Tunisia,
South Korea, Turkey and Thailand. Other suppliers to The Netherlands of small leather
goods were Taiwan, USA, Italy, Germany and France.
Figure 3.4 Imports of leather goods by The Netherlands by product group, 1997
Main suppliers as per cent of total value
Total
Hong Kong 37%

Handbags
China 16%
37
37 16 10 15 22 India 10%
Others 15%
Intra-EU 22%
Briefcases Small leather
Hong Kong 43%

India 24%
goods
38
43 24 15 13 5 China 15%
Others 13%
Intra-EU 5%
Hong Kong 48%

48 34 10 China 34%
34
Others 8%
Intra-EU 10%
China 34%
Gloves
469 India 18%

32
34 18 39
Others 39%
Intra-EU 9%
USA 19%
Belts
52 Hong Kong 10%

8
Others 19% Hong Kong 49%

Intra-EU 52% China 25%
Others 9%
Intra-EU 17%
Travel goods
89
49 25 9 17
China 27%
Suitcases
Hong Kong 15%

Indonesia 8%
47
27 15 8 38 USA 5%
Others 7%
Intra-EU 38%
Other bags,
Hong Kong 53%

cases
China 35%
44
53 35 7 Others 5%
Intra-EU 7%
0 50 100
US $ million
25
● Briefcases
The market for briefcases and attaché cases increased steadily during the 1980s in
The Netherlands. Attaché cases continue to be preferred over the other types, but since the
mid 1990s briefcases (in the style of schoolbags) and portfolios became more popular.
However since 1997, growth in the sale of briefcases slowed down. The market for
business items, like attaché cases, computer cases or other cases for office accessories is
expected to grow further because of a group of new users (women) is attracted to them,
especially to the latest attaché cases in leather, which come in more different designs.
In 1997, briefcases represented 10 per cent of all Dutch imported leather goods. In terms of
value, briefcases in plastic, fibre and in leather dominate Dutch imports, as is shown
below, whereas on a volume basis briefcases in artificials were on the lead.
Briefcases Volume per cent Value per cent
Leather or imitation 1,122 21% 13,333 39%

Plastic, moulded plastic 926 17% 5,772 17%
Plastic, fibre sheeting or textile 3,305 62% 15,273 44%
Between 1995 and 1997, the volume of Dutch imports increased by more than half from
2,227 tonnes to 5,353 tonnes and doubled in value to a total of US$ 34 million. In 1997,
more than 80 per cent of Dutch briefcase imports came from Hong Kong and China, as is
shown in figure 3.4. Other suppliers of leather briefcases were Italy, Germany, Poland,
India, Indonesia and Morocco.
● Gloves
Gloves are regarded as being an accessory in the leather goods industry. However,
since there has been a growing number of retailers, who have expanded their product
range, gloves became a slightly more important item within the leather goods assortment.
This product group includes men’s and women’s gloves, made of leather or imitation.
In 1997, gloves represented 10 per cent of all Dutch imported leather goods.
The volume of Dutch imports showed a decrease between 1995 and 1997, when the total
imported volume of gloves amounted to 2,981 tonnes of pairs. In the same period though,
their import value increased from US$ 25 to 32 million. Most Dutch imports came from
China, India, Hong Kong, Pakistan, Taiwan, Indonesia, Thailand, Czech Republic.
Germany and Belgium are important EU suppliers.
● Belts
This product group includes belts and bandoliers for men and women made of leather or
imitation, which is also regarded as being an accessory. Between 1995 and 1997 the
volume of Dutch imports slightly fluctuated, but their total value increased by 18 per cent
to almost US$ 8 million. In terms of value, other EU countries (Italy) and the USA account
for more than half of the total Dutch imports, as is shown in figure 3.4. However, in terms
of volume, India and Italy dominate the supply. The Netherlands imported more belts from
the USA and Hong Kong between 1995 and 1997.
26
Apart from India, other important suppliers from developing countries were Turkey,
Thailand, China and Argentina. Main EU suppliers include Germany, Belgium,
United Kingdom and France.
● Travel goods
The market for travel goods (travel bags, sports bags, body bags and rucksacks) has grown
fast because of increased holidays, more business travel and more sports activities. At the
expense of ladies handbags, this product group accounted in 1997 for more than one third of
the Dutch retailers’ sales turnover. A larger variety of new items in up-to-date designs and
colours has been successfully sold in The Netherlands. The same applies to sports bags and
rucksacks, which are being used by a larger group of people, who like to keep up with the
latest trends. This market is expected to grow further, as travelling and sports activities will
increase. In 1997, The Netherlands imported 9,706 tonnes of travel goods, representing
25 per cent of the Dutch total. In terms of both volume and value, textile bags dominate
Dutch imports, as is shown below.
Travel goods Volume per cent Value per cent

Plastic sheeting 1,487 16% 10,329 13%
Textile 7,633 82% 67,389 84%
Between 1995 and 1997, the value of Dutch imports increased by more than 30 per cent
from US$ 66 to 88 million and increased by 18 per cent in volume. The major increase
was in the Dutch imports of textile bags, mainly from Hong Kong where in 1996 average
import prices increased, at a much higher rate than those from China. In 1997, more than
three-quarters of total Dutch travel goods came from Hong Kong and China, as is shown in
figure 3.4. Sources in developing countries included Vietnam, Malaysia (bags of plastic
sheeting), Thailand, South Korea and India. Other notable sources were Taiwan, USA and
the Czech Republic. Dutch imports from other EU countries slightly increased between
1995 and 1997 from US$ 10 to 15 million, where Belgium, United Kingdom and Germany
were the leading suppliers.
● Suitcases
The suitcase segment (suitcases, trunks and beauty cases) has been a growing market and
is expected to grow further. In 1997, suitcases represented 14 per cent of all Dutch
imported leather goods. In this product group, both in terms of volume and value, suitcases
of moulded plastic form the largest part of Dutch imports, as is shown below. Compared to
the other materials, plastic has the advantages of being more durable and lighter in weight.
27
Suitcases Volume per cent Value per cent

Plastic sheeting 1,014 13% 4,918 11%
Moulded plastic 3,230 43% 21,001 49%
Textile surface 2,873 40% 13,196 32%
Between 1995 and 1997, the volume of Dutch imports showed an increase from 6,741 to
8,400 tonnes. In the same period the import value increased by 15 per cent from US$ 41 to
47 million, the largest increase being in the imports of suitcases of moulded plastic.
Most suitcases came from China, Belgium, Hong Kong, Indonesia USA, Taiwan,
Czech Republic, Thailand, Mexico and India. Other important supplying countries in the
EU were Germany, United Kingdom, Italy and Spain.
● Other bags/cases/boxes
This product group includes mainly shopping bags, toolbags, jewellery boxes/cases and
cases for spectacles, cameras, office accessories and musical instruments. Almost 70 per
cent of these imported goods was of textile, while 25 per cent was of moulded plastic and
the remaining 5 per cent of leather or imitation. In 1997, Dutch imports of other
bags/cases/boxes were 6,584 tonnes, representing 13 per cent of the total Dutch imports of
leather goods. Between 1995 and 1997 the value of Dutch imports increased by more than
40 per cent from US$ 30 to 44 million. In 1997 almost 90 per cent of total Dutch
bags/cases/boxes imports came from Hong Kong and China, as is shown in figure 3.4.
Other sources include USA, South Korea, Taiwan, Vietnam, India, Pakistan, Malaysia and
Poland. Dutch imports from other EU countries dropped by half between 1995 and 1997.
Major EU sources include Germany, United Kingdom, Belgium and France.
3.3.3 The role of developing countries

In recent years, two trends in the leather goods industry have had a major influence on the
role of producers in developing countries.
● Dutch manufacturers continue to contract lower-cost, labour-intensive items to foreign
manufacturers.
● Dutch importers, who in the past only dealt with ready-made articles, are willing to
assist foreign low-cost suppliers in product development and adaptation according to
their specific requirements.
Both trends may be of importance to developing countries, as they could give help to low-cost
producers to compete in world markets in terms of styles, quality, colours, workmanship etc..
The developing countries’ share of world trade in leather goods has increased enormously
in the last two decades. In Asia, leather goods were developed as an extension of the textile
industry, which requires the importation of raw materials. Producing finished leather goods,
therefore, can be a profitable industry for developing countries, especially for those that
already produce hides and skins. Instead of exporting hides and skins as semi-finished
materials, these countries make higher profits by producing finished leather goods.
28
The main problem, which developing countries wishing to export to the EU must
overcome, is competition from established suppliers. The EU (Italy, France and Germany)
has enough experienced producers with the specialised skills for fine leather craftsmanship
and with thorough knowledge of market needs.
Nevertheless, the proportion of Dutch imports of leather goods from developing countries
increased in volume terms, between 1995 and 1997, from 33 to 42 per cent. In terms of
import value this proportion increased from 30 to 35 per cent to almost US$ 114 million in
1997. This was due to increased imports, mainly of briefcases and travel goods, from
China, India, Indonesia, Vietnam, Malaysia and Tunisia. The importance of developing
countries in the supply of each product group is shown in table 3.2. A list of developing
countries, as defined by the OESO, can be found in Appendix 9.
Table 3.2 Imports of leather goods by The Netherlands from developing countries, 1997
Value in US$ 1,000
Total imports From dev. % per % of total dev.

countries product group countries supply
All groups 329,944 113,982 35 100
Suitcases 47,441 17,366 37 14

Small leather goods 37,858 17,520 46 15
Handbags 37,080 11,948 32 9
Briefcases 34,378 12,669 37 10
Gloves 32,464 22,612 69 18
Belts 7,626 984 13 1
Travel goods 88,623 21,942 25 18
Other bags/cases/boxes 44,474 18,751 42 15
Asia, especially Hong Kong, is the main supplier to The Netherlands of almost all product
groups. China and India are the major developing country-supplier of gloves, small leather
goods, suitcases, briefcases and other bags/cases/boxes. Between 1995 and 1997,
Dutch imports of briefcases from developing countries (China) tripled, while imports
from developing countries of both travel goods and suitcases almost doubled. Appendix 1
gives import statistics for each product group separately, showing the tendencies in
supplies from the most important developing countries.
3.4 Exports
The Netherlands became a sizeable exporter of leather goods as from the mid 1980s,
when the quantities which are re-exported have increased year by year, because of the
shift in production to low cost countries. In 1987, Dutch re-exports accounted for 41 per
cent of total Dutch imports, while in 1997 re-exports reached 55 per cent. In the same year,
The Netherlands, with a volume of 21,886 tonnes, was the fourth largest exporting country
29
in the EU. As is shown in table 3.3, in that year the total export value amounted to
US$ 220 million. Other EU countries were the destination for around 88 per cent of
exports, of which the greatest part was suitcases, travel goods and briefcases, together
accounting for 70 per cent of the Dutch export volume.
Between 1995 and 1997, Dutch exports rose by 30 per cent in volume, but grew in value by
18 per cent, mainly because of re-exports and trade in leather goods. The other main export
products, in order of their share of the total volume, were: other bags/cases/boxes (11%),
handbags (6%), small leather goods (5%), gloves (5%) and belts (2%). Major destinations
in the EU are Germany, which took 34 per cent of Dutch export volume in 1997, Belgium
(17%), France (13%), United Kingdom (8%), Spain (6%) and Portugal (5%). Non-EU
destinations are Poland (2%), Czech Republic (1%), Switzerland (1%), Russia (1%) and
USA (1%).
Table 3.3 Exports of leather goods by The Netherlands by product group, 1995-1997
Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997

Total 16,854 186,276 17,726 189,599 21,886 220,036

Intra-EU 14,781 157,509 15,631 163,387 20,181 194,134
Extra-EU 2,073 28,767 2,095 26,212 1,705 25,902
Developing countries 128 1,748 195 1,639 168 1,864
Handbags 3,601 52,356 3,121 46,054 1,396 29,268

Briefcases 1,700 17,034 1,755 12,757 4,040 25,940
Gloves 1,804 15,249 2,201 15,187 1,039 17,075
Belts 466 14,189 528 12,777 398 12,119
Travel goods 2,868 27,737 4,114 49,111 5,471 62,855
Suitcases 3,343 25,331 3,014 20,384 6,003 34,216
3.5 Trade structure
Relative to its market size, The Netherlands has a very large number of distributing
companies in the leather goods trade. In 1997, 33 per cent of the total market value for
leather goods in The Netherlands (US$ 482 million) went to 415 independent retail shops,
while the share of department stores had grown to 33 per cent of the Dutch market value.
The remaining 34 per cent was shared by a constantly enlarging group of other outlets.
This makes the diversity in leather goods distribution enormous. The most common other
outlets are mail order houses, shoe shops, garment shops, stationery shops, sports shops,
30
perfumery stores and street markets. Therefore, the trade diagramme shows a few entries
with a strong fanning-out pattern afterwards, as is shown in figure 3.5.
Figure 3.5 Distribution channels for leather goods
Foreign producer/
exporter
Trading
exporter
Importer/ Domestic Agent

Wholesaler manufacturer
Large retail Central Department Mailorder Public*

chain Buying stores houses services
group
Large retail Other ** Street

Own outlets Small retail
shops outlets market
CONSUMER
* PUBLIC SERVICES ** OTHER OUTLETS

Airlines Shoe retailers
Oil companies Garment shops
Credit-Card Org. Stationery
etc. Perfumery stores
Sport shops
Premium companies (gifts)
etc.
In 1997, importers/wholesalers, domestic manufacturers and agents were responsible for

three-quarters of total Dutch leather goods imports. Department stores, buying groups and
mail-order houses, which use the remaining 25 per cent, usually order direct from foreign
manufacturers, especially on large turnover "standard" items, to minimise the cost of
middlemen. Department stores in particular prefer to buy the more "risky" items
(i.e. leather goods influenced by fashion), directly from importers and place all risk on
them. Importers are required to keep a large stock in order to deliver quickly. In the
beginning, department stores place small orders, then when the item starts selling well,
large orders follow. However, if the item fails, importers are forced to sell them at a loss.
Medium-sized outlets mostly buy from importers/wholesalers or agents, while small
outlets usually buy from wholesalers or central buying groups of which they are members.
Domestic manufacturers very often contract lower-cost foreign producers to produce their
more labour-intensive lines of production.
31
Typically, the main parties involved in the distribution of leather goods are:
● Agent/broker
These are independent companies which negotiate and settle business on the instructions
of their principals and which act as intermediary between buyer and seller. They do not
buy or sell on their own account. Most agents represent more than one manufacturer,
although competition is avoided. More agents now sell from stock in order to meet their
clients’ short-term demand. Stock is often formed on a consignment basis. If the agent
builds up his own stock, he is in fact functioning as an importer/wholesaler.
● Importers/wholesalers
Unlike agents, wholesalers hold their own stock at their own risk. However, an increasing
number also act as agents. The fact that many independent retailers as well as department
stores are becoming more cautious about pre-ordering, preferring to sell from stock,
is reinforcing the position of the importer/wholesaler. The choice of whether to sell
directly to an importer or through an agent depends on the type of supplier organisation
concerned and its product/market combinations. All the factors relating to price, collection
forming, exclusiveness, labels, packing and promotion play a role in this respect.
● Domestic manufacturers
Confronted with rapidly rising production costs, which have rendered many Dutch
manufacturers uncompetitive, (especially in labour-intensive production lines)
manufacturers are increasingly assuming the role of importers. However, they still prefer
to find low-cost sources, which produce leather goods on a made-to-order basis, instead of
purchasing ready-made articles. The main advantage is that these items can be made
according to their own design, quality and colour specification.
● Large retail chains and buying groups

Large retailers and central buying groups prefer to minimise the cost of middlemen by
purchasing directly from a supplier whenever possible. This channel is used particularly
for large-scale requirements, where direct dealing with well-known suppliers is essential.
In 1997, there were three large chain stores for leather goods in The Netherlands:
Berclouw Lederwaren B.V., Duifhuizen Lederwaren and Arcon Groothandel B.V.
Together they accounted for one quarter of all Dutch outlets for leather goods.
In The Netherlands there are two central buying groups: Lecombi (38 members with 65 outlets)
and the German owned Goldkrone (65 members with 114 outlets). In total more than 35 per cent
of all Dutch shops/stores are members of one of these groups. Buying groups have direct links
with producers and with agents/importers and are becoming less dependent on the wholesale
trade. They do not function as suppliers for their members, but merely as purchasing agents for
individual retailers and as financial intermediaries between producers and retailers. The buying
groups’ objective is to make it possible for their members to compete with chain stores, which
have the buying power necessary to get larger discounts from suppliers and to buy under their
own private labels directly from abroad. Buying groups are tending to purchase from fewer
suppliers, with whom they aim to intensify their relationship and together promote increased
sales in the market. This new trend is called "partner shipping" and originated in the USA.
32
● Department stores
Department stores sell a wide range of products under one roof. The majority of Dutch
people, in particular women up to 30 years of age, buy their small leather goods (wallets,
purses), travel goods, suitcases, handbags, gloves and belts here. Most department stores
are members of large chain organisations with centrally-organised buying departments.
Well-known department stores include Vroom en Dreesman (V&D), Hema and
De Bijenkorf, which merged in 1999. The structure of a future combined purchasing
department for Hema and De Bijenkorf was not clear in August 1999, when both stores
still had their own purchasing department. In future, this may change and exporters are
advised to offer leather goods at the same price to buyers from each department.
Although all three stores are under one organisation, to consumers they will continue their
store concepts, which are quite different. De Bijenkorf stocks high-quality, stylish and
appropriately priced products. V&D operates in the middle of the market, while Hema has
good quality at lower prices, although their goods are not as fashionable as those in the
other two stores. Hema has 146 sales outlets, V&D has 60 and De Bijenkorf 6 outlets.
At the end of 1990, Marks & Spencer (UK) opened their first department store in
Amsterdam; in 1992, they opened one in The Hague.
● Mail order houses

Mail-order houses operate in the low and middle ranges as regards price, quality and
fashion. Recently they drastically reduced their range of leather goods and now mainly
offer suitcases and travel goods. Wehkamp and Neckermann are the best-known mail-
order houses.
● Premium companies
These companies concentrate on promotional gift items and sell by catalogue to advertising
agents and companies. Small leather goods, travel bags, sports bags and a wide range of
cases are premiums which are often used. In 1997, the share in the total Dutch market for
leather goods of the 165 premium companies was estimated to be around 3 per cent and is
expected to grow further.
● Independent retailers
In 1997, independent retailers had a market share of 33 per cent, which has decreased
because of increased competition from department stores and the ever-expanding range
of other outlets. These include drug stores, ladies’ fashion stores, supermarkets, discount
stores and shoe shops. Therefore, the main operations of independent retailers lie in the
middle and, increasingly, in the upper sections of the market, especially for luxury
handbags, attaché cases, suitcases and travel goods. Independent retailers lack the
advantages of economies of scale and consequently have to work with higher margins.
This means that the products must be fashionable and exclusive, otherwise customers
will purchase in cheaper stores. The average value of sales in leatherwear stores amounted
to well over US$ 295,000 (excluding VAT) in 1997, when there were an estimated
415 shops. Of these, the following three types of shops can be recognised:
33
Type of shop Number of outlets Share in total
General leather goods shop (in leather and artificials) 305 73%
Leather goods shop (in leather) 65 16%
Leather goods and luggage shop (in leather and artificials) 45 11%
Total 415 100%
● Street markets
Street vendors are involved in clearing up stocks from wholesalers, manufacturers and
importers and are not themselves involved in importing. Women’s inexpensive handbags
and some small leather goods are mostly bought here.
3.6 Prices and margins
3.6.1 Prices
The price is a major element in the leather goods sector, but there is such a broad range of
goods - qualities - materials - styles - etc., which makes it almost impossible to give
guidelines. In principle, the importers maintain fairly close control over the recommended
retail prices, but parallel imports, an oversupply of goods and the growing success of
discounters have seriously disturbed the situation.
3.6.2 Margins
The margins for leather goods are not fixed. However, a general pattern can be recognised:
Trade channel Mark up
From FOB - CIF (The Netherlands) 20 - 40%

From CIF - importer/wholesaler 10 - 20%
From importer/wholesaler - retailer 30 - 50%
From retailer - consumer 95 - 120%
Ratio CIF - Consumer price 3 - 4.5 times (incl. VAT 17.5%)
Most often importers are wholesalers as well. In addition, importers are sometimes left out
in favour of agents, who will only charge 6 - 12 per cent for their services. Usually, agents
act for suppliers within the EU and all risks for payment are up to the exporter, since
agents do not carry a stock. As a rule, importers who buy from developing countries look
for low-priced merchandise. Here, margins differ for each product/market combination and
can be influenced by the following factors:
34
● degree of risk;
● volume of business (rate of turnover); listing fees (up to US$ 35,000 per year in
department stores);
● functions or marketing services rendered;
● anti-dumping levies;
● general economic conditions (booming or depressed business);
● level of competition between supplying countries or in the leather industry;
● exclusiveness of the item concerned.
3.6.3 Sources of price information

The best way to obtain information about prices and price level in The Netherlands or EU
is by visiting one of the major trade fairs. Another possibility is prices given in catalogues
from mail-order houses, large department stores or from web sites of companies.
Window-shopping in The Netherlands, or another prospective market place, at several
retail shops is another good way of getting information about prices, fashion, colours,
qualities, promotion, etc. Concerning hides and skins and finished leather, three published
sources of information are listed below. The addresses can be found in Appendix 3.
ITC - International Trade Centre È Web site which gives information on trade in
the leather industry: http://www.leathernet.com
Filiere Cuir È Leather markets and price information is given

at the web site of the magazine Filiere Cuir:
http://www.leathermarkets.com
FAO È Publishes the “Monthly Bulletin of Statistics”,

“Commodity and Market Review”
35
4 THE EUROPEAN UNION MARKET
4.1 The European Union market summary
● Consumption
The European Union ranks among the leading markets for leather goods in the world.
It is estimated that the 373 million consumers of the 15 member states spent around
US$ 7,240 million in 1997. The EU leather goods market is dominated by 4 countries,
which in 1997 together accounted for 62 per cent of the total EU retail sales: Germany
(20%), France (16%), Italy (16%) and United Kingdom (10%). Consumer income is still
an important determinant in the purchase of leather goods. Most Northern EU countries are
much wealthier than those surrounding the Mediterranean. Per capita gross domestic
product (GDP) is well above average in Belgium, Denmark, Germany and
The Netherlands and below average in Ireland, Portugal and Spain. It should also be
noted that there are also large differences in income between regions within EU countries,
as in the North and South of Italy, France and Spain.
Demand for leather goods in the European Union as a whole is influenced not only by a
rising income per capita, but recently also by the increase in leisure time and the interest in
travel, outdoor activities and outdoor sports. Whereas in the 1980s employment and
earnings were the most important indicator of status, in the 1990s staying young and being
"busy"are important. These concerns are expected to be one of the most important market
stimulants in Europe in the coming years.
Furthermore, fashion has always been an important factor in the sale of leather goods and
demand for leather goods is influenced by new, different styles and designs for different
consumer target groups. A large group of consumers likes to keep up with the latest trends
in fashion. In this respect Italy and France remain the world's fashion leaders. However in
each EU country (or region) there are still large differences in taste, fashion, stylistic
preferences and disposable income, which makes it impossible to approach the EU as one
market. Preferences for leather goods vary from country to country as is shown below.
Differences in consumption in EU markets
Italy Handbags account for 50 per cent of the retail market.

France Handbags, gloves and belts are major items and rapidly change
in style.
Germany Travel goods account for almost 50 per cent of the retail market.
United Kingdom Small leather goods are most in demand
Other EU markets Travel goods and handbags are the major items in the retail
market.
36
The EU leather industry fared badly in the recession in the mid-1990s, the majority of
leather goods (in leather) being regarded as non-essential; the market for leather goods
showed signs of maturity, which was being reinforced by a large number of suppliers.
The market share of synthetic products increased as their quality and finish improved,
but because the purchase price of these items remains lower than that of products made
of leather, the value of the market has not risen in proportion.
However, a healthier economy and an increased optimism since 1996 has stimulated
consumer spending in most countries purchasing non-essential items, for the first time or
as replacements, the largest potential growth being noted for the purchase of travel goods.
This changing pattern in demand has forced manufacturers to pay growing attention to
style and design; models that are more fashionable, extravagant and expensive are being
introduced. Consumers are becoming more conscious of quality and brands, especially in
the case of real leather goods. Buyers carefully select different kinds of leather (bovine,
lamb etc.), checking defects, coating, shine and print possibilities with cheaper kinds of
leather. On the other hand, more demand is expected for goods made of combinations
of leather and synthetic materials. Besides their lower price, it is also easier to make prints
on synthetic materials. Changes in demography, such as the ageing population in most EU
member countries, have also led to shifts in demand. It is expected that by the year 2000
the core 15-35 years old segment of the leather goods market will decrease by around
10 per cent, while the older age groups will increase in importance.
● Production
Compared to the USA and Japan, the EU has a large market share in finished leather
production. Italy is by far the largest producer of leather goods, followed by Germany,
France and the United Kingdom. Europe has traditionally been regarded as a reliable
supplier of high quality leather goods. Moreover, European countries have a long tradition
of craftsmanship, years of experience of the latest fashions, the ability to manufacture
fashion items and a reputation for maintaining consistency in supply.
Since the 1980s, the EU tanning sector has lost more than 1,000 production units and about
30,000 employees. In Europe, there were about 3,000 tanneries with 50,000 employees in
1997. Of those, 10 companies employed more than 200 people, but almost 90 per cent
were very small family businesses employing less then 20 people, many of which had been
in business for generations.
The production of leather goods has often been shifted to East European countries and
Asia, where the leather industry uses second hand machines supplied by Germany and
other Northern EU manufacturers. This is particularly the case in the production of high
volume items (bags, travel goods, small leather goods). It is well known that some
products carrying the world's leading European brands are now produced (though not
designed) under franchise or licence in developing countries, because of low labour costs.
Since the late 1980s, there has been a continuous decrease in the EU's total output of
leather goods. In 1997, the total value of EU production, at factory prices, amounted to
US$ 4,676 million. Italy accounted for more than 50 per cent of this total and handbags are
the main items produced, as is shown in table 4.1.
37
Table 4.1 EU production of leather goods by EU country and product group, 1997
Production value in US $ million
Handbags Suitcases Travel Small leather Briefcases Belts/ Total

goods goods gloves
Total 2,001 307 612 570 308 878 4,676
Italy 1,292 378 214 186 514 2,584

France 434 223 165 122 169 1,113
Germany 225 240 90 195 750
United Kingdom 20 67 61 148
Other EU countries* 30 11 40 81
Note: * Other EU countries are: The Netherlands, Denmark and Sweden
As already mentioned in section 3.2, the European leather goods industry has been
threatened by enormous price competition from large supplying countries like China, India
and Pakistan. As a consequence, the EU industry now concentrates on the production and
marketing of high quality leather goods. European manufacturers changed their production
emphasis from quantity to quality and adjusted their production methods and techniques in
order to fulfil higher quality standards and to produce the latest fashion trends in leather.
Sometimes they specialise in particular niche markets, which need excellent technological
control, good design and an ability to anticipate the needs of consumers.
● Imports
Import and export statistics are distorted by the existence of central European distribution
centres for the larger brand manufacturers. They import the leather goods, especially travel
goods from non-European sources to one location, but subsequently re-export the same
goods to individual EU markets. Therefore, official statistics give only an indication of the
major trends and of the relative significance of individual importing countries and do not
represent the real situation. Furthermore the same restrictions apply to the import and
export statistics of the EU as to The Netherlands (see section 3.3). Detailed import and
export statistics are given in Appendix 1.
The EU ranks among the leading importers of leather goods in the world. All small leather
goods exports are almost evenly shared between the EU countries and the USA on one
hand and Asia on the other. In 1997, the EU imported more than 25 per cent of the total
world imports of leather goods, or 529 thousand tonnes with a value of US$ 5,094 million.
Between 1995 and 1997, almost all countries in the EU increased their imports of leather
goods, except Germany, Austria and Sweden. In this period, therefore, total EU imports
increased by 20 per cent in volume and in value. Germany, which imports almost one
quarter of all EU imports, is the largest EU market for leather goods: 120,115 tonnes,
38
with a value of ECU 1,222 million in 1997. Germany is followed by France (18 per cent of
EU imports in 1997), the United Kingdom (17%), Italy (9%), The Netherlands (6%),
Belgium (7%) and Spain (5%). An overview of the imports of each country is given in table 4.2.
Table 4.2 EU Imports of leather goods, 1995-1997

Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997

Germany 126,791 1,226,361 122,929 1,215,274 120,115 1,222,277

France 73,975 770,292 81,239 838,849 82,861 894,220
United Kingdom 75,888 614,263 86,433 768,088 116,484 880,012
Italy 31,899 284,347 35,022 335,851 48,694 449,594
Netherlands 34,068 268,272 38,301 321,907 38,350 329,944
Belgium 26,677 276,735 33,189 310,991 37,257 346,928
Spain 20,392 181,695 24,992 221,720 29,881 258,981
Austria 13,556 192,055 13,066 196,611 12,076 185,320
Sweden 13,574 148,324 13,128 157,583 12,690 155,467
Denmark 8,741 100,065 9,097 105,297 9,122 115,315
Greece 4,017 40,635 5,780 58,128 7,475 72,148
Finland 3,920 42,815 4,562 51,775 4,666 64,275
Portugal 3,682 45,738 4,179 56,512 4,921 65,728
Ireland 4,193 35,233 4,569 40,675 5,191 53,882
TOTAL EU 441,373 4,226,830 476,486 4,679,262 529,783 5,094,091
Between 1995 and 1997, almost all countries in the EU increased their imports of travel
goods, especially in 1997, when there was high demand for travel goods and other
bags/cases/boxes made of textile and plastic. EU imports of briefcases, small leather
goods, in leather and with plastic sheeting, as well as imports of gloves and belts also
increased. EU imports of handbags fell by 35 per cent in volume and just by 4 per cent in
value, which is probably a result of anti-dumping levies within the EU, as from 1996, on
handbags from China. A detailed breakdown of product groups which are imported
by the EU can be found in Appendix 1.
As is shown in figure 4.1, travel goods dominate imports of leather goods. China is the
major supplier to the EU and, with a total of US$ 2,164 million, accounted in 1997 for
almost half of the EU imports of all leather goods. Travel goods are mainly supplied by
China, whose exports to the EU increased by 25 per cent between 1995 and 1997 to
159,581 tonnes. In 1997, China also supplied 38 per cent of the total suitcase supplies to
EU countries, but the majority of suitcases came from other EU sources, like Belgium and
France. Next to China, India, other supplying countries like Hong Kong, Vietnam and the
USA increased their supplies of leather goods to EU countries. India exported more
handbags (in leather) to the EU, at the expense of China, and is an important supplier of
39
small leather goods and gloves. Between 1995 and 1997, Vietnam increased its supplies to
the EU of travel goods, while the USA exported more belts and suitcases. A detailed
overview of the development of EU imports of product groups more in detail is given in
Appendix 1. An overview of the main suppliers by each product group in 1997 is given in
figure 4.1.
Figure 4.1 EU imports of leather goods by product group, 1997

Main suppliers as per cent of total value
Total
%
China 23%
Handbags
India 9%
Hong Kong 3%
866
23 9 14 48 Thailand 3%
Others 14%
Intra-EU 48%
Small leather
China 38%
India 14%
goods
620
38 14 13 30 Hong Kong 5%
Others 13%
Intra-EU 30%
China 38%
Gloves
Pakistan 14%
516
38 14 14 21 13 India 14%
Others 21%
Intra-EU 13%
Briefcases
China 50%
298
50 18 13 Hong Kong 6%
Others 18%
Intra-EU 26%
Turkey 6%
Belts
159
80 USA 3% 46 China 53%

Others 11% Vietnam 7%
Intra-EU 80% Hong Kong 4%
Others 11%
Intra-EU 25%
Travel goods
1,347
53 7 4 11 25
China 38%
Suitcases
USA 3%
733
38 14 42 Taiwan 3%
Others 14%
Intra-EU 42%
Other bags,
China 60%
cases
Hong Kong 6%
556
60 18 16 Others 18%
Intra-EU 16%
0 500 1,000 1,500

US $ million
The role of developing countries

The role of developing countries is substantial, since they supplied 64 per cent of the total
imported volume into the EU (339,315 tonnes). Between 1995 and 1997 the share of
developing countries in the import volume decreased slightly from 67 to 64 per cent but in
value their share increased from 52 to 54 per cent to US$ 2,767 million in 1997.
However, as the total EU imports increased between 1995 and 1997, supplies from
developing countries increased more or less proportionally. Except belts, all leather goods
40
were sourced in developing countries, which supply more than half of gloves, travel goods
(especially rucksacks and sports bags), other bags/cases, briefcases and small leather goods
to the EU. In 1997, travel goods took 28 per cent of total supplies of developing countries.
Next to China, India and Vietnam, other important suppliers were Pakistan (gloves),
Thailand (handbags), South Korea (bags), Indonesia (suitcases), Turkey (belts),
Philippines (gloves), Morocco (handbags) and Tunisia (handbags). The importance of
developing countries in the supply of each product group is shown in table 4.3.
An overview of the EU imports of each product group separately can be found in
Appendix 1. A list of developing countries, as defined by the OESO, is given in Appendix 9.
Table 4.3 EU imports of leather goods from developing countries, 1997, US $ 1000
Total imports From dev. % per % of total dev.

countries product group countries supply
All groups 5,094,091 2,767,221 54 100
Handbags 866,015 347,810 40 12

Suitcases 732,958 333,722 46 12
Small leather goods 619,560 364,069 59 13
Gloves 515,819 400,686 78 14
Briefcases 298,506 176,966 59 6
Belts 158,570 18,484 12 1
Travel goods 1,347,082 831,802 62 28
Other bags/cases/boxes 555,582 415,756 75 14
● Exports
In 1997, the total value of the EU exports was US$ 4,369 million, of which 42 per cent
went to other EU countries. Between 1995 and 1997 the total of EU exports grew by 12 per
cent in value. The fall in total EU export volume is mainly due to incidental large exports of
belts from the United Kingdom to other EU countries in 1995. Being the major producers,
Italy and France are the largest exporters of leather goods in the European Union.
Other EU countries, which are growing in importance are Belgium, Germany and
The Netherlands. Handbags form almost 40 per cent of the EU export value. Other important
leather goods exported by the EU, in order of their share of total export value in 1997
were: small leather goods (17%), travel goods (14%), suitcases (11%), belts (7%), other
bags/cases (6%). An overview of EU exports by product group is given in Appendix 1.
Major destinations for EU exports within the EU in 1997 were France, which took 10 per
cent, Germany (9%), United Kingdom (5%), Belgium (4%), Italy (3%), Spain (3%),
The Netherlands (2%) and Austria (2%). Non-EU destinations were: Japan (16%),
USA (10%), Hong Kong (8%) and South Korea (2%). An overview of the exports of each
EU country is given in table 4.4.
41
Table 4.4 EU exports of leather goods, 1995-1997
Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997

Italy 23,909 1,538,784 21,333 1,857,558 20,976 1,713,264

France 21,807 1,057,989 24,471 1,112,557 27,458 1,134,684
Belgium 24,777 237,528 29,449 296,769 35,184 361,082
Germany 12,989 399,974 13,388 384,618 13,974 384,093
United Kingdom 54,227 161,487 13,109 204,393 14,062 266,799
Netherlands 16,854 186,276 17,726 189,599 21,886 220,036
Spain 4,350 167,042 4,252 185,445 3,422 148,450
Denmark 2,194 40,009 1,654 34,854 2,242 39,336
Austria 859 21,843 1,098 23,394 1,292 27,882
Sweden 855 16,779 964 20,630 995 23,470
Portugal 1,181 19,560 967 17,786 751 19,380
Ireland 551 10,536 655 12,253 527 12,870
Finland 486 9,850 546 10,923 547 12,082
Greece 479 2,620 237 4,660 372 5,711
EU TOTAL 165,518 3,870,278 129,849 4,355,440 143,688 4,369,138
4.2 Profiles of the major EU markets
4.2.1 Germany
Germany has by far the largest population size within the EU, with 81.8 million
inhabitants and a recorded average GDP (Gross Domestic Product) per capita in 1997 of
ECU 22,500. Consequently, Germany is the largest market in the EU for leather goods.
Germans like to show their wealth by their choice of garments, shoes and leather goods,
though those from the former East Germany are only able to spend about half as much
money on leather goods as their West German cousins.
Consumption and market trends

The total German retail market for leather goods was valued around US$ 1,450 million in
1997, a decrease of 8 per cent compared to 1996. Germany's share in the total EU retail
market for leather goods in 1997 was 20 per cent. In the same year, travel goods, with a value
of US$ 406 million, accounted for 28 per cent of the German market. Here, rucksacks, which
have been popular among German teenagers, were the fastest growing segment. For young
women, a greater variety of rucksacks has led to an increase in sales at the expense of
handbags. Between 1993 and 1997 sales of small leather goods (in artificials) and gloves rose,
while sales of briefcases, belts and small leather goods (in leather) decreased. The German
retail market is a mature market and little growth is expected. An increase in leisure time and
travel may result in more demand for rucksacks, especially up-to-date fashionable models,
42
and for travel bags. Further growth can be sought in the market for more expensive, quality
leather goods, since Germans are very interested in fashion and good quality. They prefer
German-made (or apparently German-made) articles. Soft luggage is preferred to hard, while
travelling bags and other items should link up nicely with the suitcases in style and colour.
Figure 4.2 German retail market for leather goods by product group, 1997
Belts
6%
Gloves Travel goods

14% 28%
Small leather 1,450

goods
15%
Ladies handbags Suitcases, briefcases

15% 22%
Source: BBE Branchenrapport Lederwaren (1998)
Trade structure
Independent retailers sold 47 per cent of leather goods in 1997, a market share which has
been fairly stable for the past five years. In 1997, there were 2,822 independent leather
goods shops in Germany, for which Goldkrone, Assima and Anconia were the major
buying groups. Department stores accounted for 25 per cent of retail sales - a slight
decrease compared to 28 per cent in 1993. Mail-order houses make almost 8 per cent of
total sales. The remaining 20 per cent is sold in other outlets, where clothing and shoe
shops are growing in importance, especially those selling leather goods at a price and
quality in the middle and lower ranges.
Production and processing

German manufacturers are well known for high quality leather goods. In 1997, the German
production output of leather goods was valued at US$ 750 million, which is almost equally
shared between handbags, suitcases and belts. This shows a decrease of 10 per cent,
however, compared to the turnover of US$ 826 million in 1996. German manufacturers
together outsource more then half of the country’s imported leather goods, frequently from
low-cost countries like Poland, Hungary and Asian countries. Products are produced under
licence or can be a private brand, made according to buyers' specifications. Very often,
technical staff and management are transferred to a plant with low labour cost, in order to
assure high quality standards. This practice has resulted in fewer plants and a decrease in
the numbers employed in the German leather industry. In 1997 there were around
250 German companies manufacturing leather goods, of which 121 companies employed
more than 20 people (total: 7,500 employees). This number is expected to decrease further.
43
Imports and exports
With a 24 per cent share of total EU imports, Germany is the largest market in the EU for
leather goods. In 1997, Germany imported 120,115 tonnes with a value of US$ 1,222 million.
In the same year, 24 per cent of imports was sourced inside the EU, while 60 per cent of
total German imports came from developing countries. Germany is the largest EU importer
of gloves (29 per cent of total EU imports in 1997) and of suitcases, small leather goods,
and travel goods. German imports slightly decreased by 5 per cent between 1995 and 1997,
mainly because of a fall in demand for handbags, gloves, briefcases, suitcases and belts.
In 1997, small leather goods, travel goods and other bags (textile) were more in demand.
The main supplier of leather goods to Germany is China (54 per cent of total volume of
imports). Other suppliers include India (6%), Belgium (5%), The Netherlands (4%),
Pakistan (3%), Italy (3%), Vietnam (3%), Czech Republic, Taiwan, Poland, Indonesia,
Hungary, United Kingdom, USA, Bulgaria and Hong Kong. An overview of German
imports by product group is given in table 4.5.
Table 4.5 Imports of leather goods to Germany, 1995-1997

Tonnes / US$ 1000
1995 1996 1997

Total 126,791 1,226,361 122,929 1,215,274 120,115 1,222,277

Intra-EU 19,675 316,261 23,355 346,498 19,247 287,617
Extra-EU 107,116 910,100 99,574 868,776 100,868 934,660
Handbags 12,404 237,345 11,652 237,428 7,933 184,083

Gloves 18,220 148,851 16,246 137,220 16,839 151,275
Briefcases 7,900 64,543 7,558 65,204 7,429 71,172
Belts 1,438 49,826 1,313 47,842 1,322 45,062
Travel goods 27,426 238,658 27,360 248,487 27,631 267,193
Suitcases 32,973 187,131 32,384 184,800 30,866 168,451
Germany is the fourth largest exporter of leather goods in the EU and exported for
US$ 384 million in 1997, which represented 9 per cent of total EU exports. Handbags
account for 22 per cent, small leather goods 21 per cent, travel bags 15 per cent, suitcases
13 per cent, belts 9 per cent and other bags 12 per cent. Other EU markets imported
46 per cent of German's exports, while 52 per cent went to non-EU markets, of which
Japan, USA and Hong Kong were significant customers in 1997.
44
4.2.2 France
In 1997, France had around 58.3 million inhabitants, who had an average GDP per capita
in 1997 of ECU 21,270. France, together with Italy, is the undisputed joint world leader in
terms of fashion and quality of leather goods. Many of France's famous fashion designers
produce their own lines of leather goods. Some well-known names are: Cartier, Dior,
Hermes, Lancel, Chanel and Yves Saint-Laurent. A "French style" in handbags and small
leather goods definitely exists. The style is mainly characterised by classic lines and
relatively simple designs; it is sparing in embellishments, classic in choice of colours and
rigorous in its insistence on superb finishing. Exporters in developing countries should
keep this style in mind, but this should not deter them from producing their own designs in
co-operation with the importer or the agent. It is important for such designs to be basically
classic in style and colour.

In 1997, the total French retail market for leather goods was estimated to be around
US$ 1,140 million. France's share in the total EU retail market for leather goods in 1997
was 16 per cent. In 1997, handbags accounted for 29 per cent of the French market,
representing a sales value of US$ 330 million and making France the second largest retail
market for handbags in the EU. Hand-held or under-arm bags are popular; the smaller they
become the more precious is the material: goatskin with metallic finish. Handbags tend to
be decorated with embroidered satins, trimmings and embellishments. Other popular
leather goods sold were gloves, which together with belts accounted for 20 per cent of the
French market. In the past few years, travel goods and suitcases have been a dynamic
sector and their share in the total value of leather goods sold was 26 per cent in 1997,
as is shown in figure 4.3.
Figure 4.3 French retail market for leather goods by product group, 1997
Small leather goods

11%
Ladies handbags
29%
Briefcases
14%
1,140
Gloves,
belts
20% Travel goods
26%
Source: Le Conseil National de Cuir (1998).
45
When buying leather goods, the French tend to pay more attention to the name of the
designer than the brand. They are critical buyers, who are used to a highly sophisticated
home industry and they carefully consider price, quality and fashion before making a
purchase. It is important to know that most French consumers will pay high prices only for
European leather goods, preferably marked "Made in France" or " Made in Italy".
Developing country exporters will therefore have a greater chance of success if they
operate in the medium- and lower-priced product categories or approach the French market
with less fashion-sensitive lines such as travel goods, briefcases or small leather goods.
The majority of leather goods in France is sold by independent retailers, while one third is
sold in department stores and hypermarkets, which sell more small leather goods and bags,
mainly under their private brands. The larger mail-order companies usually concentrate on
the lower end of the market.

The long-established domestic leather goods industry is highly skilled and specialised.
Factories are usually small family businesses, sometimes producing for only one or two
outlets (their own) and specialising in one or two types of leather goods. In 1997,
there were about 250 enterprises manufacturing leather goods, with 11,000 employees.
The industry's turnover in 1997 was around US$ 1.100 million. An overview is given in
section 4.1, table 4.1.
Imports and exports

In terms of value, France accounted for almost 18 per cent of EU imports of leather goods
in 1997, or a total of 82,861 tonnes, valued at US$ 894 million. In 1997, 42 per cent of
total French imports was sourced inside the EU, while 51 per cent came from developing
countries. France, compared to other EU countries, is a large importer of handbags and
small leather goods. Travel goods dominate imports, accounting for 27 per cent of total
imports in 1997. French imports of leather goods together increased by 16 per cent
between 1995 and 1997, as is shown in table 4.6. Handbags were less in demand and
imports of these had decreased by 4 per cent in volume, but had slightly increased to a
value of US$ 181 million in 1997. All other goods have been more in demand with the
largest increases in French imports of small leather goods (in artificials), briefcases and
suitcases (plastic, textile surface) and travel goods.
46
Table 4.6 Imports of leather goods to France, 1995-1997
Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997

Total 73,975 770,292 81,239 838,849 82,861 894,220

Intra-EU 20,198 325,266 25,730 383,677 23,092 375,772
Extra-EU 53,777 445,026 55,509 455,172 59,769 518,448
Handbags 12,458 172,569 14,149 192,874 11,892 181,776

Gloves 4,147 59,126 4,681 66,571 4,823 70,115
Briefcases 5,974 48,528 6,338 51,321 7,515 60,324
Belts 504 22,210 712 25,511 715 25,374
Travel goods 24,963 207,400 26,553 220,432 27,377 242,397
Suitcases 13,136 70,749 15,354 79,822 16,073 87,554
In 1997, most French imports of leather goods came from China (59 per cent of total
volume of imports), Belgium (13%). Other suppliers include Italy (4%), Netherlands (4%),
Vietnam (4%), United Kingdom (2 pert cent), India (2%), Germany, Thailand, Spain, Taiwan,
Portugal, Morocco, Pakistan, Tunisia, USA, Indonesia, South Korea and Hong Kong.
France is the second largest exporter of leather goods, exporting a value of US$ 1134 million
or 26 per cent of total EU exports in 1997. Exports continue to exceed imports and in 1997,
around 80 per cent of the French industrial turnover was exported. Handbags accounted for
33 per cent of this total, small leather goods for 32 per cent and travel goods17 per cent.
In 1997, other EU markets imported 25 per cent of France's total exports. Japan, USA and
Hong Kong were major customers.
4.2.3 Italy
Italy had around 57.3 million inhabitants in 1997, with an average GDP per capita in 1997
of ECU 17,465. Italy is one of the world's leading producers and exporters of leather
goods. Handbags, its most important product group, account for 58 per cent of the value of
all leather goods exports. Along with France, Italy is a world fashion leader for leather
goods. Fashion is a priority factor in the buying decisions of all Italian consumers.
Traders say that if materials other than leather happen to be in fashion, many Italians will
buy the non-leather items in preference to those of leather. Men's belts are the only articles
that seem impervious to fashion, as far as materials are concerned. Even the cheapest
men's belt must be made of leather to sell on the Italian market.
47
In 1997, the total Italian retail market for leather goods was US$ 1,130 million. Demand in
this sector is fragmented. The youth market has gained in importance and the market is
more segmented by lifestyle instead of by income level. Consumers and their preferences
can be divided into four categories: citizens (classic style), freestyle (safari style),
teenagers (extravagant style), children (curved style). As for the product groups, handbags
accounted for 50 per cent of the Italian retail market, which is a very high percentage,
compared to other EU countries. Leather handbags are mainly purchased by women older
than 25 years, who represent around 20 million consumers. In 1997, gloves and belts
accounted for 17 per cent of the Italian market, a decrease over the previous year.
The same applied to sales of small leather goods, which in 1997 accounted for 12 per cent
of the total market. Rucksacks hold an important position in the travel goods segment and,
in 1997, travel goods accounted for 15 per cent of the total Italian leather goods market,
as is shown in figure 4.4.
Figure 4.4 Italian retail market for leather goods by product group, 1997
Ladies handbags
50%
1,130
Briefcases
6%
Gloves, belts
17%
Small leather
goods
12%
Travel goods
15%
Source: AIMPES (1999)
The value of the Italian retail market in 1998 was estimated at US$ 1,123, which is a slight
decrease of 1.3 per cent compared to 1997. Sales of handbags increased by 3.8 per cent
(in volume), which was also the case for suitcases (1.6%) and briefcases (1.6%).
Sales decreased, however, for bags/ rucksacks (8%), wallets (10.7%), belts (7.9%) and
small accessories (1.9%).
In 1997, the distribution of leather goods by independent retailers accounted for 35 per
cent of retail sales. In 1997, there were 4,000 shops in Italy selling leather goods, but these
have suffered from increased competition from street vendors, open markets and clothing
stores, which accounted for almost half of retail sales that year. Department stores sold
only 7 per cent and are less important in the sale of leather goods in Italy than in other EU
markets.
48
Many prospective suppliers fail to penetrate the Italian market because the goods they
offer are simply not adapted to Italian tastes. The Italian style in leather goods is hard to
define and the materials and colours used are decisive in whether or not a product will sell
well. As the "look" of leather goods is essential to sales, prospective suppliers must
establish close contacts with Italian designers in order to have a chance of succeeding in
this market. In their very first approach to an Italian importer, exporters should present
finished leather goods instead of letters or photographs, since buyers prefer to see and feel
the items in question.

In 1997, the production value of leather goods, the majority of which was handbags,
was valued at US$ 2,584. An overview of the Italian production of leather goods is given
in table 4.1, section 4.1. Production dropped by 8 per cent in 1998 to a total value of
US$ 1,130. This was mainly due to a decrease in demand for small leather goods,
belts and luggage and difficulties experienced in supplying many small quantities in short
times, which is often required by retailers. In 1997, there were 6,400 Italian manufacturers
of leather goods, employing 27,000 people. Like other EU countries, Italy is facing
competition from producing countries with low labour costs. Although it is probably still
the world's biggest manufacturer of leather goods, it is finding it harder to produce leather
goods competitively, particularly in the lower and middle quality ranges.
Imports and exports

In terms of value, Italy accounted for almost 9 per cent of EU imports of leather goods in
1997, or a total of 48,694 tonnes, valued at US$ 449 million. In 1997, 26 per cent of Italian
imports was sourced inside the EU and 58 per cent came from developing countries.
Travel goods and suitcases dominated imports and accounted together for around 44 per
cent of total imports of leather goods. Handbags (mainly in artificials) accounted for 17 per
cent, small leather goods for 15 per cent, while gloves and other bags accounted for 9 per
cent each. Italian imports of leather goods increased between 1995 and 1997.
Handbags were less in demand, with imports down by 44 per cent, to a volume of
4056 tonnes by 1997. On the other hand, the value slightly increased. Imports of all other
product groups increased, especially those of travel goods, suitcases, other bags and small
leather goods. An overview of Italian imports by product group is given in table 4.7.
49
Table 4.7 Imports of leather goods to Italy, 1995-1997
Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997

Total 37,758 368,724 40,050 424,507 52,750 539,934

Intra-EU 5,827 105,520 5,034 114,365 9,405 141,891
Extra-EU 31,931 263,204 35,016 310,142 43,345 398,043
Handbags 5,859 84,377 5,028 88,655 4,056 90,340

Gloves 4,218 37,631 5,148 49,270 4,946 46,358
Briefcases 1,967 18,122 2,085 19,463 2,287 22,925
Belts 123 5,573 163 7,690 190 8,098
Travel goods 8,216 75,923 9,215 84,264 16,457 130,864
Suitcases 11,801 73,193 11,501 78,819 16,377 110,314
In 1997, most Italian imports of leather goods came from China (62 per cent of total
volume of imports). Other suppliers include Belgium (9%), France (5%), India (3%),
Vietnam (2%), Pakistan, Hungary, Netherlands, Thailand, Taiwan, Germany, Switzerland,
Indonesia, Bulgaria, Romania and the USA.
Being the largest EU producer, Italy controlled a 40 per cent share of all EU leather goods
exported, in 1997, with a volume of 20,976 tonnes, valued US$ 1,713 million. Most of this
total was handbags, which accounted for 58 per cent of total Italian exports. Other large
export products are small leather goods (11%), belts (11%) and suitcases (6%). In 1998
Italian exports increased due to the popularity of products in synthetics, particularly
briefcases, small accessories and handbags. In 1997, other EU markets imported 33 per
cent of Italian leather goods, while the Japan, Switzerland, USA, Hong Kong, Canada,
Eastern Europe and other Asian markets were also major customers.
4.2.4 United Kingdom
The population of 58.7 million inhabitants (1997) constitutes the fourth largest EU market for
leather goods. This market is clearly divided between people from the South (basically the
London area), who have a higher income and who prefer goods made of leather and people
from the North, who are very price-conscious and who buy more goods made from artificials.

The total British retail market for leather goods in 1997 was around US$ 712 million, or 10
per cent of the total EU retail market for leather goods. The UK market for leather goods has
been stable for some time and in 1997 small leather goods accounted for 44 per cent of this
50
market, with a sales value of US$ 313, which is high compared to other EU markets. Wallets
and purses are regarded as essential and are often used as personal gifts. Goods of good
quality leather are reasonably priced. Small leather goods are also used in the rapidly growing
promotional gift market. Gloves and belts accounted for 22 per cent of the total and handbags
for 19 per cent, of which 3 per cent were handbags in artificials. Most women, from their
teens, are likely to use a bag daily and many will own more than one, varying them to suit
occasion and outfit. Some British women prefer not to use anything derived from animal
products and choose instead bags of natural fabric, while younger women tend to prefer
handbags with a synthetic look. Travel bags and suitcases accounted for 15 per cent of the
retail market. These are often purchased only out of necessity, or are borrowed from others.
However, the sale of luggage is expected to increase, since tourism within the UK and abroad
is growing. Briefcases accounted for 8 per cent of the market and practicability and quality
are most important for British people. A stronger economy, a rise in the number of women
executives and an escalating demand for portable personal computers and other office
accessories needing cases, will all stimulate further growth of briefcases and other cases.
Figure 4.5 United Kingdom retail market for leather goods by product group, 1997
Briefcases
8%
Travel goods
15%
Small leather
goods
44%
712
Ladies handbags
19%
(of which in artificials 3%)
Gloves, belts
22%
Source: Keynote/CIG (1998)
Department stores and chain stores accounted for around 44 per cent of retail sales of
leather goods in 1997. Independent retailers sold almost 29 per cent and mail order houses,
including catalogue showrooms, accounted for 29 per cent of total retail sales.

Leather goods "made in the UK" are mainly classic items of high quality, which are produced
for long-established British brands. In the high quality leather segment, the UK plays a
significant role in the EU leather industry. In 1997, the production value of leather goods was
valued at US$ 148 million, mainly for suitcases and small leather goods. Most manufacturers
deal directly with retailers, forcing out the wholesaler, who mostly handles imported products.
Like the other EU countries, most of the British leather industry has moved its production to
countries with low labour costs, first to South America and later to Asian countries.
51
Imports and exports
The United Kingdom accounted for 17 per cent of EU imports of leather goods in 1997.
Imports amounted to 116,484 tonnes, with a value of US$ 880 million, of which imports of
travel goods, handbags and small leather goods took the largest proportions. In 1997,
British importers sourced around 25 per cent of their requirements in other EU countries
and, of this total, 65 per cent came from developing countries. Between 1995 and 1997,
United Kingdom imports increased by 43 per cent, mainly because of a high demand for
other bags (textile), travel goods, briefcases, belts and small leather goods. In 1997, there
was less demand for handbags and gloves. The main suppliers of leather goods to the
United Kingdom are China (52%), France (28%). Other suppliers include India (3%),
Italy, Taiwan, Germany, Pakistan, Hong Kong, Netherlands, USA, Ireland, Vietnam,
Philippines, Indonesia, Thailand, South Korea, Malaysia, Myanmar, Sri Lanka and Turkey.
An overview of United Kingdom imports by product group is given in table 4.8.
Table 4.8 Imports of leather goods to The United Kingdom, 1995-1997

Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997

Total 75,888 614,263 86,433 768,088 116,484 880,012

Intra-EU 7,863 143,362 9,343 185,579 42,011 218,423
Extra-EU 68,025 470,901 77,090 582,509 74,473 661,589
Handbags 12,659 151,234 15,036 200,020 9,419 184,222

Gloves 8,049 53,695 8,807 67,006 8,357 76,519
Briefcases 4,941 34,668 6,461 43,132 6,504 46,711
Belts 407 15,531 424 18,522 585 20,486
Travel goods 20,395 150,706 23,420 179,924 39,393 232,071
Suitcases 20,159 96,458 20,318 109,074 20,342 121,594
In 1997, the United Kingdom exported 14,062 tonnes of leather goods with a total value of
US$ 267 million, or 6 per cent of total EU exports. Suitcases and travel goods accounted
each for 25 per cent of total exports, handbag 17 per cent and small leather goods 10 per
cent. In 1997, other EU markets imported 64 per cent, while Japan, USA and Hong Kong
were also significant customers.
52
4.2.5 Belgium
In 1997, Belgium had around 10.1 million inhabitants with an average GDP per capita of
ECU 21,042. Belgium is a relatively small market for leather goods, but plays a key role as
a European trader for distribution to other EU markets. In 1997, the Belgian retail market
for leather goods was estimated to be around US$ 387 million, or 5 per cent of the total
EU market. As in other northern EU markets, sales of travel goods have increased rapidly
and took the largest proportion of the market. Due to the enormous variety of products
available, growth in the Belgian leather goods market as a whole has slowed down.
Domestic production of handbags and small leather goods is almost negligible, owing to
high labour costs. However, Belgium is the biggest supplier of hard-side luggage in the EU
(Samsonite plant).
Belgium offers possibilities for exporters of articles at the extreme ends of the market,
either the most expensive or the cheapest leather goods. Originality in both product
categories is essential. On the other hand, in the Brussels and Luxembourg areas, leather
goods at the higher end of the market are favoured. It is clear that most developing
countries should target the bottom end of the market. Simple articles without fancy designs
are the best to start with, especially for producers whose production machinery is limited
to sewing machines and other basic tools. Fashion products are also likely to cause
problems. New exporters should develop product lines in close co-operation with buyers.
This may take time, but will bring better results in the end. Sales service is also of great
importance to Belgian buyers. Importers handle all matters in relation to production,
transport, delivery, payment arrangements and stock financing. Bulk buyers such as
hypermarkets (GB/Maxi, Delhaize) prefer to have access to these services, which are just
as important to them as price. Exporters should calculate their minimum price and quote
this price, and no other, when presenting their collections to importers.
In 1997 Belgium, together with its neighbouring country Luxembourg, accounted for
7 per cent of total EU imports, importing a total of 37,257 tonnes, with a value of
US$ 346 million, of which the largest part was re-exported. In 1997, 45 per cent of Belgian
imports was sourced inside the EU and, of this total, 46 per cent came from developing
countries. Travel goods dominate Belgian imports. Suitcases and handbags are other
important product groups. An overview of Belgian imports by product group is given in
table 4.9.
53
Table 4.9 Imports of leather goods to Belgium and Luxembourg, 1995-1997
Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997

Total 26,677 276,735 33,189 310,991 37,257 346,928

Intra-EU 9,843 153,941 10,238 153,324 11,535 157,730
Extra-EU 16,834 122,794 22,951 157,667 25,722 189,198
Handbags 3,146 57,048 4,828 63,779 2,750 46,110

Gloves 1,459 17,292 1,479 18,492 1,849 22,406
Briefcases 1,422 13,993 1,590 15,314 1,597 17,227
Belts 287 10,944 313 11,056 308 11,064
Travel goods 9,412 78,773 12,498 97,853 16,171 129,345
Suitcases 8,359 56,220 8,500 56,529 10,097 61,465
Other bags, cases etc. 1,573 20,166 2,895 25,688 3,334 31,448
Between 1995 and 1997, Belgian imports of leather goods increased by 25 per cent.
Particularly travel goods, other bags and gloves were more in demand. Imports of the
other product groups also increased, except of handbags of which Belgian imports
decreased by 23 per cent between 1995 and 1997. China (52%), France (16%) were the
main suppliers, while other suppliers include The Netherlands (8%), Vietnam (4%),
Hungary (4%), Germany, India, United Kingdom, Italy, Philippines, Thailand, Taiwan,
USA, Czech Republic, Pakistan and South Korea.Re-exports are considerable and the
main destinations for leather goods of all types are The Netherlands and France.
Belgium is the third largest exporter of leather goods in the EU with a total exports volume
of 35,184 tonnes, or US$ 361 million in 1997. Between 1995 and 1997, Belgian exports
increased by 50 per cent in value, due to increased exports of travel goods, other bags and
small leather goods. The majority (95%) went to other EU markets.
4.2.6 Spain
In 1997, Spain had around 39.2 million inhabitants. The population growth has been
slowing down in recent years and is forecast to rise by just 1.1 per cent between
1996-2005. Tourism brings 60 million foreigners into Spain every year. The average GDP
per capita in 1997 was ECU 11,960 and Spain is among the fastest growing economies in
the EU. The Spanish retail market for leather goods in 1997 was estimated to be
US$ 572 million, in which travel goods are expected to grow further. In 1997, Spanish
imports of leather goods were 29,881 tonnes, or US$ 258 million, representing 5 per cent
of total EU imports. In the same year, 36 per cent of Spanish imports was sourced inside
the EU and 58 per cent came from developing countries. Travel goods, suitcases and
handbags together dominated these imports and accounted for 65 per cent of total imports.
54
Between 1995 and 1997, Spanish imports of all leather goods increased by 42 per cent,
except handbags. An overview of Spanish imports by product group is given in table 4.10.
Table 4.10 Imports of leather goods to Spain, 1995-1997

Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997

Total 20,392 181,695 24,992 221,720 29,881 258,981

Intra-EU 5,329 80,574 6,829 96,430 6,751 93,894
Extra-EU 15,063 101,121 18,163 125,290 23,130 165,087
Handbags 3,242 40,009 4,065 47,620 2,912 39,970

Gloves 2,580 21,521 2,772 23,670 2,878 25,497
Small leather goods 815 10,724 1,116 14,528 1,422 19,967
Briefcases 929 8,048 1,261 10,446 1,551 12,025
Belts 187 7,381 168 7,519 136 6,797
Travel goods 6,794 52,528 7,129 61,130 9,979 82,895
Suitcases 4,146 26,804 6,135 37,465 7,531 45,433
China (63%) is the main supplier to Spain. Other suppliers include India (5%), France (5%),
Belgium, Italy, Netherlands, Vietnam, United Kingdom, Taiwan, Thailand, Germany,
Pakistan, USA and Indonesia. Spain is a small EU exporter of leather goods, with a value
of US$ 148 million or 3 per cent of total EU exports. Between 1995 and 1997, Spanish
exports decreased by 12 per cent, which was due to fewer exports of handbags and small
leather goods, both in leather. In 1997, other EU markets imported 52 per cent, while the
Asia and USA were also significant customers.
55
5 ACCESS TO THE EUROPEAN UNION MARKET
5.1 Quality and grading standards

The term "leather goods" covers a very wide range of products. Few other industries
produce products which, apart from the basic material, differ so much in size, construction,
production methods and supplementary materials. For this reason, it is impossible to give
general guidelines on quality and grading standards for all these different kinds of leather
goods. In trade, buyers are concerned with the five following points linked like a chain,
which will snap if one of them is too weak: P = Price; Q = Quality; R = Reliability;
S = Speed; T = Technology. P-Q-R-S-T is a yardstick in the leather industry for
evaluating suppliers. Although buyers are always looking for new and better lines of
merchandise, they tend to stay with their established suppliers. Exporters must prove that
their company and products are absolutely reliable before buyers will consider them as
new suppliers. In addition, there are restrictions to the use of the term "leather", which are
usually defined by the trade. Next to the P-Q-R-S-T chain, buyers may check if the product
adheres to international standards or to the standards in their own country. Contrary to the
many international regulations which apply to imported hides and skins and those
produced by EU tanners, there are almost no international rules on imported leather goods.
When rules exist, most EU countries apply their national legislation. However, there is one
EU standard (Directive 92/59/EC), which aims to guarantee product safety on the use of
specific materials (e.g. nickel) in leather goods that will come into contact with human
skin. In the leather industry, there are quality standards with international certificates or
labels and as long as these are met, the product definitely has a competitive advantage.
International standards
On a worldwide basis, the ISO 14001 standard provides guidelines for the tanning and
production of leather. When producers apply these guidelines in their production, the high
quality of their products will be recognised by the trade. The ISO standard is not a law but
is regarded more as general advice. There is an enormous difference between the
production methods and waste treatment in western and in developing countries. Tanners
in EU member countries are obliged to invest in expensive water purification installations
to meet the strict environmental standards in their own country. Further information can be
obtained from the ISO, whose address can be found in Appendix 2.
Imports of leather goods made from the skins of endangered species are strictly controlled.
Documentation must be supplied to the Customs authorities showing that the exported
skins meet the protection of species regulations of supplying countries. Some animals are
protected by the Convention of Washington on International Trade in Endangered Species
of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). CITES will supply information on the export of these
kinds of leather goods. The address can be found in Appendix 2.
EU Standards
In 1997, there was one EU standard (EN 420) for finished leather goods, restricting the use
of chrome in the production of protective gloves. Currently, two EU Technical
Committees (TC 289 and 309) are developing standardised ecological criteria for the
56
production of footwear (not dealt with in this survey), which in future will be also
applicable to the production of finished leather goods. These criteria will mainly concern:
● The use of cadmium in certain dyes and stabilising agents in raw material and leather;
● The health and safety of the products for consumers, based on Directive 92/59/EC,
which requires that all consumer goods must bear a safety guarantee.
The European Commission can be contacted for further information. The address can be
found in Appendix 2.
Dutch standards
In The Netherlands, there are some guidelines for quality control of standard suitcases,
which can be ordered from TNO (National Technical Centre for Research), whose address
can be found in Appendix 2.
5.2 Packaging, marking and labelling

Deliveries from developing countries generally have a long distance to go before reaching
their destination. Therefore, it is very important that close attention is paid to seaworthy
and solid packaging. Items which can easily be damaged, moulded or chapped must
therefore be packed carefully and securely.
Points to consider when packaging
● do not to fill up the cardboard boxes just with the products, but pack a number of
similar items in a smaller box, or use some cardboard layers;
● clearly indicate which products and in which quantity is packed in each box,
so that this won't be a mystery to the importer;
● before packing, products should be protected by plastic bags in order to avoid
damage from rain or moisture;
● each box should have a packing list, which gives a specification of all products in
terms of quantity, types, colors etc..
Large importers often have their own requirements as to how the goods should be packed.
The original packaging of leather goods is especially important for department stores and
mail-order houses. Here, large quantities are usually involved and buyers want to be able
to transfer the goods from the shipping box straight onto the display shelves of their retail
outlet, or in case of a mail-order company, to be able to forward the item as originally
packed to its customers by mail. In both cases, there should be no need for buyers to
correct or, even worse, to change the factory packing. The International Trade Centre
(ITC) has published an international packaging guide for the leather sector, which serves
as a guideline for exporters. For further details the ITC can be contacted; the address can
be found in Appendix 2.
Environmental considerations have become more important for all products in the
European Union, in determining the legal requirements for packaging and labelling.
The EU directive 94/62/EC on Packaging and Packaging Waste sets common objectives
for all member countries for the recovery and the recycling of packaging. By law,
from July 1996 onwards, all EU member states had to have a packaging waste recycling
57
system in operation. In general, an exporter can make his contribution by taking the
following measures:
● take care that packaging materials (transport packaging) are limited and as much as
possible of the same kind and could be re-usable or recyclable;
● try to combine products and make larger shipments, instead of frequently shipping
small quantities;
● try to develop re-usable and multi-functional foils with, for example, snap fasteners so
that the same foil can be used again for (domestic) packaging purposes.
All main boxes should bear the precise address of the receiver and sender. In case of
sending several boxes to one receiver, each main box should be marked individually.
The documentary requirements for shipping may vary from country to country and
should be always cleared with buyers before the goods are shipped. The bill of lading
(or consignment note), a copy of the invoice, the packing list, certificate of origin and an
insurance certificate are the usual minimum documents required. On the consignment note
and on the invoice the following should be mentioned:
Information on the consignment note
● address of the receiver ● address of the sender

● quantity of the boxes ● sizes of the boxes
● markings on the boxes ● date of sending
● total gross weight ● total net weight
● description of contents
Information on the invoice
● all information as indicated above

● prices of the goods (per product and in total)
● materials used to manufacture the goods
● payment condition
● description of the products and HS code (see chapter 2.2)
5.3 Trade-related environmental measures

Growing awareness of environmental pollution and hazardous ingredients, particularly
in the (final) processing of leather goods, has led to reductions in the use of chemicals
dangerous to human health. As well as the quality and price, importers and consumers are
taking increasingly more notice of the environmental aspects of the product.
Environmental issues mainly concern the production process, the recycling of waste water,
preservation methods used on hides and the level of chemicals which remain in the final
(leather) product.
58
Sustainable development
The concept of sustainable development, adopted by nearly all the countries in the world at
the 1992 Rio de Janeiro Conference, represents the philosophy that economic development
should automatically take into account environmental issues. In this respect all parties,
from the general public to manufacturers, are asked to accept their social responsibility and
minimise the environmental impact of their activities. This is called sustainability and the
following tools can assist manufacturers to achieve it:
Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)
LCA is also called "the cradle to grave" approach. Manufacturers (have to) look at the
total environmental aspects of their products. A material which is very environmentally
sound when the product is used could be very polluting, energy consuming or difficult
to break down in the excavation, refining, production or discard stage of the life cycle.
Thus the use of a material which is less environmentally sound when the product is used,
could be justified because the impact on the environment is less in another stage of the
life cycle. On a European scale the European Commission decided that the LCA method
will be the technique to decide if a product is produced environmentally conscious or not.
The LCA technique is therefore used by the EC in the setting of criteria for ecolabels.
Cleaner production
Cleaner production is the conscious use of products and processes to prevent the
pollution of air, water and land. This means that a careful look is taken at the overall
processes and waste materials. A process liquid could be re-used instead of being
discarded, simple measures could increase the efficiency of a machine, toxic process
liquids could be replaced by non-toxic etc.
Ecodesign
Ecodesign means basically giving the environment a place in product development.

This implies that during product design, efforts are made to reduce the use of raw
materials, minimise waste, energy used and toxic emissions. This will ultimately lead to
a reduction of material and energy used. Although these tools are used by manufacturers
to reduce the impact of their product(ion) on the environment, it is known that other
benefits can arise, like a reduction of product(ion) costs.
59
Environmental labels
In Europe, some "green" marketing labels (for products) and environmental management
standards (for the whole organisation) have been created both by governments and by
private parties. The labels most relevant to leather goods are the:
● Ecolabel, which is voluntary and is found mainly on the packaging of the final
product. At present there are ecolabels for footwear. In The Netherlands, the "Stichting
Milieukeur" (the Dutch Ecolabelling Foundation) is planning to develop criteria for
leather goods in the longer term. For more information, interested parties should
contact the Stichting Milieukeur (see Appendix 2).
● SG label or Schadstoffgeprüfft label, which stands for "tested for dangerous

substances", is not only created for leather goods but it also defines norms for textiles,
pulp, paper, wood, cork, glue, plastics, rubber and synthetic leather. Limits are being
set for dangerous substances to human health, like: Formaldehyde, Pentachlorophenol
(PCP), Chlorified phenols (non-PCP), Arsen, Lead, Cadmium,Mercury, Nickel and
Chromium. In addition to the listed standards, other norms have to be fulfilled like the
minimum colour fastness grades for staining. The testing authorities are three
recognised institutes: TÜV Rheinland Sicherheit und Unweltschutz GmbH, Institut
Fresenius Gruppe and Prüf- und Forschungsinstitut Pirmasens. Addresses can be found
in Appendix 2.
Environmental standards
Ecolabelling procedures are aimed purely at products and indicate that products carrying
an ecolabel have a reduced impact on the environment. If a manufacturer wants to
publicise the fact that he is manufacturing in an environmentally sound way, he can
comply with standards, which have been developed for this purpose. There are now two
general, but voluntary, standards with which manufacturers can comply: BS 7750 and
ISO 14001. Both standards are based on the ISO 9000 series of standards for quality
management. One norm currently being developed is the EU Ecological Management and
Audit Scheme (EMAS), but as this only applies to companies with production facilities
within the EU, it is usually not relevant for manufacturers in developing countries.
So far, EMAS registration is widely accepted only in Germany. It is therefore expected
that other EU companies will favour ISO 14001.
Issues related to leather goods

In The Netherlands, consumers are increasingly looking for leather goods which are
produced using environmentally sound methods. Dutch manufacturers now use
water-based lacquers and similar measures to deal with the drainage of waste water.
Improvements are still being made for soil protection, hazardous production equipment
and working conditions. The association of the Dutch leather industry (address:
see Appendix 4) has established guidelines for a standardised environmental management
system, to be implemented by leather producers. When producing leather or plastic the
following points should be taken into account at the different stages of the production
process:
60
Environmental issues in the production of leather
In the beamhouse È the use of chemicals during the cleaning of the skin.
Tanning process È consider organic tanning instead of chrome tanning.
Finishing process È reduce the waste coming from residues of finishing materials,
È finishing solvents, solvent vapour and water.
Waste treatment È reduce waste during all stages of the production process,
such as: waste-water, solid waste and atmospheric emissions.
This can be achieved by: - Process integrated improvements
- Re-use of wastes
- End-of pipe treatment
- Reduce azo dyes in leather goods
Environmental issues in the production of plastic
● Find environmentally sound alternatives for cadmium. It may not be used as a

pigment in concentrations exceeding 0.01 per cent weight in a wide range of
materials. In The Netherlands the standard is 50 mg/kg cadmium (50 ppm).
● Find less flammable retardants, like polyamide (PA), polyamideimide (PAI),
polyetherimide (PEI), (PEI) or polyimide (PI).
● Find alternatives for asbestos, as its use in products is strictly prohibited in the EU.
● Find alternatives for CFCs and halons, like nitrogen and carbon dioxide, which are
prohibited.
● Check the latest EU legislation on: - the use of cadmium
(Directives 76/769/EC and 91/338/EC);
- bromated flame retardants
(an EU ban is being considered);
- asbestos
(Directive 76/769/479 and amendments);
- CFCs and halons
(Directive 594/91 and amendments).
The manufacturer is always held responsible for the environmental standards of his
product, even if he purchases leather from tanneries in other countries, which may not
comply with the strict standards in Germany or in other EU countries. Therefore, exporters
are advised to ask tanneries or traders to declare in writing, that their leather meets the EU
environmental standards or the standards of the consuming country. Such written
declaration does not safeguard exporters from their environmental responsibility, but it
enables them to claim damages from tanneries when their leather goods are rejected by the
inspection authorities or importers in consuming countries. When tanneries make incorrect
statements in their declaration, exporters can hold them responsible for rejection of goods.
61
Information
For detailed information about environmental aspects relevant to trade, please refer to the
Eco Trade Manual, which can be obtained from CBI. This publication has been jointly
developed by CBI and the other trade promotion organisations NORAD, DIPO and SIDA;
the addresses can be found in Appendix 7. Information can also be obtained through
GreenBuss®, CBI’s on-line database for Environment, Trade and Technology, which can
be found on the CBI Internet website at: http://www.cbi.nl. CBI has published an
Environmental Quick Scan for the product group leather. Its purpose is to inform
individual companies about relevant environmental standards in trade and to offer them
solutions for meeting these standards.
5.4 Child labour and leather goods

Next to environmentally sound leather goods, consumers have a negative attitude to the
use of child labour in the production of leather goods and it is expected that publicity will
increase the consumer’s awareness of this issue in future. There is growing concern among
buyers of leather goods on the use of child labour in the factories of new suppliers.
Exporters who can guarantee and prove that their products are made without child labour
will not only have a competitive advantage over other products, but will also have a much
better chance of establishing a long-term business relationship.
As in other industrial sectors, trade associations of leather goods in most EU countries are
currently exploring the possibilities of developing a model code of ethical conduct for the
production of all leather goods. Control programmes to eliminate child labour from the
leather goods industry are now being discussed. In future, this may result in the
establishment of a label, to be used by leading manufacturers, which guarantees that their
leather goods are made without child labour. Some well-known brand manufacturers/
importers are expected to establish their own standards.
5.5 Tariffs and quotas

If there is no special trade agreement in force between countries, the general import tariffs
apply. For developing countries, some kind of preferential trade agreement is established
where import tariffs for leather goods are reduced under the Generalized System of
Preferences (GSP) or the Lomé Convention for the ACP countries (Africa, Caribbean and
Pacific). However, leather goods originating in China, Thailand and Malaysia are excluded
from the GSP. Showing the Customs Authority Certificate of Origin ("form A") can
presently reduce the import duty for leather goods and a permanent reduction is being
considered. In addition, a Movement Certificate EUR 1 is required to show where the
products have been produced (the country of origin). Most imported goods are subject to
an "ad valorum" duty, which means that the duties are levied as a percentage of its value.
The general and GSP tariff for all leather goods are both shown in table 5.1.
62
Table 5.1 EU import duties by product group ( in per cent of the CIF value)
HS Codes Product description General tariff GSP tariff
4202 11 10/90 Briefcases, suitcases, leather 3 1

4202 12 11/19 Briefcases, suitcases, plastic 9.7 3.3
4202 12 50 Suitcases, moulded plastic 5.2 1.8
4202 12 91/99 Briefcases, suitcases, fibre or textile 3.7 1.2
4202 19 10 Suitcases, briefcases, aluminium 5.7 1.9
4202 19 90 Suitcases, briefcases, other material 3.7 1.2
4202 21/91 10 All bags, leather 3 1
4202 2210/92 11/19 All bags, plastic 9.7 3.3
4202 92 91/98 All bags, textile 2.7 0.9
4202 22 90/29/99 00 All bags, fabric, fibre, paperboard 3.7 1.2
4202 31 00 Small leather goods, leather 3 1
4202 32 10/90 Small leather goods, plastic, textile 9.7 3.3
4202 92 15 Musical instrument cases, plastic 6.7 2.3
4202 21/31 Gloves, belts, leather 3 1
Note: Value Added Tax (VAT) for all leather goods is in The Netherlands 17,5 %
Source: Belastingdienst Douane (1999)
If the leather goods are made of hides and skins, which originally come from endangered
species, no preferences are granted and the exporter should contact the CITES or the
Ministry of Agriculture in The Netherlands; addresses see Appendix 8.
There are no quantitative restrictions for imports of leather goods. However, as a result
of the EU Council regulation 1567/97 of 1 August, anti-dumping duties for handbags
(in leather or in artificials) coming from China have been imposed. These duties may vary
from US$ 1 even up to US$ 65 per piece. More detailed information on this issue can be
found at the CBI trade documentation centre or at the European Commission, DG III;
address see Appendix 2.
Regarding up-to-date information on import tariffs and for an updated list of least
developed countries, contact the Customs authorities in Rotterdam, The Netherlands.
Information can be also obtained by telephone in The Netherlands and from abroad.
The relevant information numbers are given in Appendix 8. The HS code of the product
concerned must be always mentioned; a detailed list of HS codes can be found in chapter 2.2.
Other information sources are the European Commission, branch organisations importers.
63
5.6 Terms of the trade
5.6.1 The contract

Differing customs, habits and traditions can cause problems in business relationships,
even after both partners have carried out sound preliminary investigations. A contract is
not necessarily a document. If two parties agree on something verbally, this verbal
agreement is a contract according to most European laws. Since it is difficult, in the case
of a verbal contract, to prove that something in particular has been agreed upon,
the agreement should always be confirmed in writing.
Details to be mentioned in a contract
1. The contract parties: the seller, the buyer, the broker and/or buying/selling agent,
with all names and addresses correctly spelled.
2. The product, price and quality of the product must be sufficiently specified, so that
no misunderstandings can arise.
3. The quantities must be mentioned. If the buyer and the seller agree to more or less
than the agreed quantity, this should be specifically mentioned.
4. The delivery terms are mentioned according to the description of the Incoterms 1990
(available at the International Chamber of Commerce).
5. The payment terms are to be spelled out in detail.
6. The delivery time is a vital piece of information on which the seller and the buyer
will have to agree.
7. Packaging details, including measurements and weights.
8. If one of the parties has negotiated special conditions, this is to be mentioned in the
contract.
9. What will be done if the two parties disagree with each other? To which arbitration
court/district they will go?
A contract is of importance if there is a disagreement. A dispute may arise for example

because:
● the buyer is of the opinion that goods/equipment are delivered late;
● the agreed quality level has not been met;
● the seller is of the opinion that the buyer does not live up to his financial commitments.
Failure to deliver on time is likely to be subject to penalties. Exporters should be

absolutely sure they can meet delivery dates without delays, before they enter into a
contract. Trading relations between exporter and importer are based on trust, and they can
only be built up by meeting the high expectations of the importer.
5.6.2 Payment methods and delivery terms

In the leather goods trade, the method chosen will depend on negotiations between buyer
and seller in which both will try to achieve the best conditions for themselves. In general,
this means that exporters prefer to be paid before shipment of the goods (by confirmed
irrevocable letter of credit at sight), while buyers prefer to pay as late as possible, after
arrival, inspection or even sale of the goods.
64
Common methods of payment
Clean payment
This is the most common method and is used when both parties know each other well.
The process is fast and reliable, depending on the credit worthiness of the importer.
The bank carries out the transactions through swift electronic data system and the transfer
costs are not very high.
Documents against payment (D/P)

Also known as cash against documents (CAD). The buyer takes possession of the goods
only after payment. Although this method is not very popular, it is very safe and the costs
are about one pro mille.
Letter of credit (LC)

The irrevocable LC is very often used at the beginning of a business relationship when
the importer and exporter do not yet know each other very well. The LC is irrevocable
and will always be paid. The costs, namely five pro mille, are higher than the D/P method.
This method is widely used in the EU when dealing with exporters from outside Europe.
Bank guarantee
The buyer's bank will present a bank guarantee for the amount of the invoice.
Cheques
Bank guaranteed cheques are generally no problem, though cashing them may take some
time, up to six weeks. Not all personal cheques are accepted.
Payment on consignment basis

Payment on consignment basis is often used in the trade of perishable products and not
for leather goods.
A detailed explanation of the payment terms can be found in CBI's manual "Exporting to
the EU", which is available at CBI. When dealing with every (new) supplier, the importer
considers very carefully which method of payment should be agreed upon. The same
applies to the delivery terms.
Most common delivery terms
● FOB (Free on Board): the buyer arranges for transportation and insurance.
FOB must specify the port of departure.
● CFR (Cost & Freight): the exporter pays the freight, the buyer arranges for the
insurance.
● CIF (Cost, Insurance & Freight): the exporter pays the freight and the insurance.
65
5.6.3 Business practice
In order to establish a successful long-term business relationship, the exporter’s first offer
should be interesting in the field/market of the buyer. Importers complain that product
ranges offered have no direct relation to their business and are therefore not interesting.
Before making contact with importers, it is advisable for exporters to research the market
thoroughly to find out more details of importers and their consuming industries.
Prospective exporters to The Netherlands or other EU countries could use the following
resources to do their own desk research:
Resources for your desk research
● Trade promotion organisations in your country, as well as chambers of commerce

and banks;
● Trade magazines, catalogues from mail-order houses and department stores;
● Reports on markets for leather goods published by the other (commercial) agencies;
● International Trade Centre (ITC), (for address see Appendix 8);
● Import promotion organisations such as CBI to check if export promotion
programmes in your field are being organised.
The next step is to select potential trade partners in EU countries. Names and addresses
of relevant importers and traders in The Netherlands can be found in Appendix 10.
Do not expect that buyers are waiting just for you or your company, or that you can book
orders right away. Exporting is a long-term business!
When visiting Europe
● Pay a visit to Europe during the year you are planning to export.
● Inform selected prospective buyers of your intended visit by letter, fax, or e-mail
two to four weeks before leaving. This can be accompanied by a trade offer.
Giving information to buyers beforehand will increase the chance of making
appointments by telephone when in The Netherlands or other EU countries.
● Inform CBI beforehand. Visit CBI to obtain latest information and advice.
● Plan a visit during a period in which a trade fair is being organised somewhere in
Europe.
● Visit important shopping centres.
Having followed the steps mentioned above, you can select a number of appropriate
prospective buyers for your products and try to make an appointment. There are no general
guidelines for approaching a buyer, but the following information about business practices
in The Netherlands and other EU countries should be helpful.
66
Some important factors to keep in mind when doing business in EU countries
È Suppliers should accompany their offers to buyers with samples. Quotations should
be made on C&F, CIF or FOB basis, depending on the location of the producer and
the habits of the importer. Prices should be mentioned in US$, DM, NLG or euros.
È In the leather goods sector, there are many imitations of imitations of imitations etc.
This makes life easy for the importer of "copying" producers, but rather frustrating for
creative manufacturers. Regarding fashion items, there is a two-way stream of models:
either the importer hands the model to the producer or the producer offers a collection to
the importer. The search for "something new" at "a good price" is an all-pervading theme
in the selection of models. It is very important for manufacturers in developing countries
either to have a western-designer style in their collection or to follow the models as
indicated by the importer. In the latter case, every importer will insist on exclusivity.
È Large retailers buying high volumes usually expect to obtain a price which is lower
than the best wholesale price. Suppliers must take this into consideration when
setting their prices, after making their own "mixed calculations".
È Importers normally start by placing trial orders, if good samples of the desired models
have been received. If the first trial order proves to be successful, more substantial
orders may follow. Delivery should then be made in a rather short time!
È The delivery date of an order is always specified at the time of purchase. Suppliers
should be aware that failure to meet the specified delivery will usually result in
cancellation of the order.
È Never ship poorer quality goods than those demanded and agreed upon. Importers
reserve the right to return merchandise which does not conform to the sample they
were shown or is not up to the standards of quality they expected. In some cases, the
logistics of returning an order may make it unfeasible, but the importer will surely
never place a new order from the same supplier.
È Avoid bad packaging of the goods. Research packaging problems (mutually)
to reduce transportation costs and improve product quality and appearance.
È Depending on the size and market of the importer and the success of an item, the
number of items of one model may vary from 50 to several thousand. The latter figure
indicates a fairly successful product in, for example, the Dutch market.
È Appointments are carefully planned in diaries, leaving little or no room for individual
discussions on a spontaneous basis, so: always make appointments ahead of time.
È Communication and speaking the right language is very important. If you cannot finish
something by a deadline, say so early on. Doing your best (though not keeping a deadline) is
not enough. Also, answer questions as soon as possible. Telephone and fax are indispensable;
telex is hardly used anymore. E-mail and Internet are rapidly gaining popularity.
È People are frequently in meetings and therefore often unavailable.
È Everything is highly planned in detail.
È It takes a considerable time to gain confidence as a new supplier.
È Little business is done in July and August (holidays).
È Individual opinion is important. In all instances directness is preferred.
È Women can occupy high executive positions.
È Do not go "European"; stick to your own identity. Use "culture" as an asset, rather
than a burden.
67
5.7 Promotion
Promotional activity is basically carried out by importers and traders; here personal
contacts and long-established relationships are most important. Advertising is done in
international trade magazines. However, the emphasis in promotion will be in personal
selling at trade shows/events, as well as during international trade conferences.
5.7.1 Trade fairs

There are no specific fairs for leather goods at industrial or trade level. Most trade fairs are
mainly organised for the retailers in leather goods. Trade fairs for leather goods are
organised in almost all EU countries. Some of these fairs are internationally orientated,
while others are just of national importance.
Special attention should be given to the fairs in Germany (Offenbacher Messe and
Modeforum). The Offenbacher Messe gives a good overview of all leather goods available
on the international market and is held twice a year. The Modeforum, held in Offenbach
twice a year, gives a good impression of the latest fashion for the season to come, where
womens' handbags are the main item in new collections. Recently the Modeforum has
grown in importance and most of the goods shown here are ordered at the next
Offenbacher Messe. Foreign manufacturers may participate in the Offenbacher Messe.
The organisers of the Modeforum, however, are extremely selective in choosing their
exhibitors and new companies, e.g. exporters in developing countries, do not stand a
chance of exhibiting, which shows the protectionist attitude of the EU market.
Another trade fair in Germany is the Frankfurter Messe, which is a large show for all types
of consumer goods, held at the same time as the Offenbacher Messe. There is less variety
in leather goods at the Frankfurter Messe and the goods displayed are meant for a specific
target group. Most exhibitors also have a stand at the Offenbacher Messe, where they show
their complete product range. For exporters in developing countries, the Frankfurter Messe
could be a good alternative to the Offenbacher Messe. However, participation costs are
high and the waiting lists for participation are rather long.
In Italy the Mipel, which is visited by buyers from all over the world, is the largest and
most important international trade show and sets the trends for fashion in leather goods.
This fair provides the best opportunities for international orientation on fashion, styles,
colours etc. It is difficult for exporters from developing countries to participate. If a stand
can be negotiated, it will be in the "Overseas hall". Because visitors primarily aim to
obtain information on the latest trends, this hall is visited by fewer people. It should be
noted that French and Belgian consumers have their own interpretation of fashion and
styling, therefore visiting the fairs in Paris and Brussels is recommended. For information
about developments in tanning and leather finishing, it might be wise to visit the special
fair for leathers and accessories in Pirmasens (Germany).
68
In The Netherlands, a permanent fair building for leather goods and other consumer goods
has been established in Utrecht in the center of The Netherlands. This permanent
exposition is called "Trade Mart " and is a national fair, which is not open to foreign
participants. Manufacturers and exporters have their permanent stands in this building.
Very often, these stands are used as their main showroom or even as a warehouse, where
retailers can buy from stock. Leather goods are concentrated on the sixth floor. Retailers
are welcome every first and third Monday of the month. Special appointments can be
made. Stand owners have access to their own stand whenever they want to welcome
visitors. Season Fairs of several days are held twice a year, which are not strictly for
national participants. The most important international trade fairs for leather goods are:
Trade fair Location Date Visitors
Offenbacher Messe Offenbach, Germany February/August 5,000

Modeforum Offenbach, Germany April/October 5,000
Frankfurter Messe Offenbach, Germany February/August 105,000
Mipel Milan, Italy March/September 10,000
Campionare di Firenze Florence, Italy September 4,000
Trade Mart Brussels, Belgium May/ November 8,000
Iberbiel Madrid, Spain February/September 5,000
Trade Mart Utrecht, Netherlands March/September 9,000
Linea Pelle * Milan, Italy September 5,000
Pirmasens * Pirmasens, Germany March/October 4,000
Asia Pacific Leather fair Hong Kong, China April 10,000
Note: * more focused on raw material and finished leather
A large conference for the African leather industry was organised by the International
Trade Centre (ITC) for the first time in Cape Town in November 1998. The purpose of this
initiative was to create a permanent event for the African leather industry, which will be a
major tool in the development of African exports. The conference covered one week and
included seminars, buyer-seller meetings, factory visits and a trade fair (on raw materials,
chemicals, equipment components, accessories and finished leather goods).
The conference was sponsored by the CBI and co-organised by the SIC (Semaine
International de Cuir). Detailed information can be obtained by contacting the ITC and
additional information can be found on the Internet; addresses are given in Appendices 5
and 11.
5.7.2 Trade press

There are many national periodicals giving information about the national production of
leather goods, some of which are of international standard. However, most of these
periodicals are only in the national language, without a translation into English. On the other
hand, they give a lot of visual and valuable information about fashion and colours for the next
season. The German and Italian periodicals are the most internationally orientated sources of
information. Leading international trade magazines for leather goods are listed next page.
69
Title Frequency Language Coverage
Lederwaren Report Monthly German German/Int. leather goods industry

(quarterly special on production)
Lederwaren Zeitung Monthly German German trends in leather goods
Arpel Monthly Italian/English Italian/Int. fashion in leather
goods/clothing
Leather Monthly English International leather industry
Filiere Cuir Fortnightly 4 languages International leather trade and industry
Trend Boutique Monthly Dutch Dutch/Int.trends in leather goods
Lederwaren Tribune Monthly Dutch/French Belgian leather goods industry
Sko & Laedervarer Monthly Danish Danish leather goods industry
The Italian magazine Arpel and the German magazines not only give information about
leather goods, but also on the trends and colours in fashion for the new season. For exporters
in developing countries, these periodicals could be of interest for orientation on the market,
but not for advertising. In order to keep well up to date, buyers and retailers also read the
international trade press. The Internet gives the latest information on the leather sector at the
site http://www.leathernet.com. This site also offers the opportunity to get in contact with
trade partners. Another international site is related to the Filiere Cuir magazine, called
leathermarkets. This is written in French, English, Chinese and Arabic; the address is
http://www.leathermarkets.com. Other useful Internet addresses can be found in Appendix 11.
5.7.3 Assistance with market entry

Before approaching organisations abroad, potential exporters are recommended to check with
the local trade promotion organisations, Chambers of Commerce and foreign representatives
in their country as to whether the information required is readily available. There are many
organisations in EU countries, which are important in the field of general representation,
promotion and public relations activities for exporters from developing countries.
Import Promotion Organisations:

In most EU countries, there are organisations (for example CBI in The Netherlands)
which support imports from developing countries, through a specific export promotion
programme. They can provide the following services:
● supplying information about:
– statistics and publications about the national market
– regular news bulletin
– database of importers
– product market opportunities
● giving individual assistance, such as:
– management training
– testing products by display
– product adaptation services
● establishing contacts by means of:
– collective trade fair missions
– selling missions
70
Branch organisations:
In most European countries, producers, wholesalers and retailers are organised in branch
organisations or trade associations. These organisations can help new exporters to the EU,
by supplying information about the market.
For addresses, telephone and fax numbers of Import Promotion Organisations and other
organisations, which can be of assistance in entering the European Union market, see list
in Appendix 7.
5.8 Checklist
This checklist can be used to verify the subjects mentioned in the previous chapters:
q Check the European quality and grading standards for leather goods (see section 5.1).
q Determine for which end-use a particular product in leather or in artificials is

supplied (see section 5.1).
q Conduct market research on leather goods and your product in particular:

market size; segmentation; imports; main competitors; consumption patterns and
trends.
q Check that packaging, marking and labelling meet the requirements of individual
trading partners and any applicable legislation (see section 5.2).
q Be aware of the importance of environmental measures and check the opportunities

and threats linked to environmental topics (see section 5.3).
q Check the tariff and non-tariff barriers for your products (see section 5.4).
q Verify the conditions of contracts (see section 5.5.1).
q Verify the payment methods used (see section 5.5.2).
q Check the trade fairs which maybe of interest for you (section 5.6.1).
q Study the business practices in The Netherlands and the EU (section 5.5.3).
È Most important: If necessary, see if you can adapt your product or production
process to meet the requirements indicated above.
71
APPENDIX 1 DETAILED IMPORT/EXPORT STATISTICS
This section gives Eurostat statistics covering the imports of the main product groups into
The Netherlands and the EU. Instead of listing all supplying countries ranged in order of
importance, here only the the top 5 or top 3 leading supplying countries are mentioned.
This is done in order to emphasize the role and tendencies in supplies of leather goods
from developing countries (dev. countries), which are printed in the tables in italics.
THE NETHERLANDS - IMPORTS
Imports of leather goods by The Netherlands by source, 1995-1997

Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997
Total 34,068 268,272 38,301 321,907 38,350 329,944

Intra-EU 5,016 59,256 4,945 65,163 5,245 59,570
Extra-EU 29,052 209,016 33,356 256,744 33,105 270,374
Dev. countries 11,451 80,508 15,940 102,368 16,331 113,982
Top 5 suppliers:
Hong Kong 15,347 100,443 15,482 126,308 14,737 127,632
China 10,098 61,706 14,128 80,387 14,169 88,159
India 1,332 17,130 1,517 21,558 1,640 24,287
Belgium 2,506 25,792 2,444 26,861 2,368 24,187
Germany 1,549 17,816 1,246 17,003 1,641 16,766
Dev. countries:
China 10,098 61,706 14,128 80,387 14,169 88,159
India 1,332 17,130 1,517 21,558 1,640 24,287
Indonesia 617 4,720 963 6,083 896 5,866
Pakistan 393 4,110 435 4,451 388 4,583
Vietnam 298 3,415 353 4,089 341 4,537
South Korea 249 3,715 238 4,684 177 3,938
Thailand 180 2,792 177 2,841 135 2,260
Tunisia 37 1,907 33 1,714 56 2,015
Argentina 37 1,264 43 1,553 48 1,820
Phillipines 50 929 60 1,123 46 1,063
Turkey 50 910 24 573 32 927
Malaysia 18 244 9 80 432 904
Mexico 23 288 21 226 20 298
Sri Lanka 2 41 1 50 15 261
Morocco 12 270 8 189 10 149
72
Imports of leather goods by The Netherlands by product group, 1995-1997
Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997

Total 34,068 268,272 38,301 321,907 38,350 329,944

Intra-EU 5,016 59,256 4,945 65,163 5,245 59,570
Extra-EU 29,052 209,016 33,356 256,744 33,105 270,374
Dev. countries 11,451 80,508 15,940 102,368 16,331 113,982
Detailed product groups:

Briefcases, leather or imitation 427 4,815 374 5,003 1,122 13,333
Briefcases, plastic sheeting 868 4,474 766 5,296 926 5,772
Briefcases, plastic, textile surface 932 6,258 1,569 9,665 3,305 15,273
Suitcases, leather or imitation 178 2,941 236 3,955 316 3,724
Suitcases, plastic sheeting 596 3,285 849 4,254 1,014 4,918
Suitcases, moulded plastic 2,654 20,620 3,160 21,875 3,230 21,001
Suitcases plastic, textile surface 1,604 7,626 2,263 9,703 2,873 13,196
Brief-, suitcases, aluminum 1,269 3,710 925 3,146 590 2,720
Brief-, suitcases of other material 440 2,920 554 3,602 377 1,881
Handbag, leather or imitation 661 14,827 699 16,817 865 15,533
Handbag,plastic sheeting 3,631 24,651 3,382 26,549 907 7,772
Handbag, fabric surface 1,875 12,785 2,014 13,648 1,124 11,474
Handbag, cardboard or fibre 342 2,763 306 2,559 222 2,301
Belts, leather or imitation 247 6,479 231 6,591 246 7,626
Small leather goods, leather 429 13,611 472 16,849 592 19,420
Small leath.goods, plastic sheeting 682 5,144 591 5,974 503 6,016
Small leath.goods, textile surface 721 8,223 1,057 11,686 686 10,399
Small leath.goods, cardboard, fibre 342 2,763 306 2,559 181 2,023
Travel/sports bags, rucksacks (L) 175 2,063 115 1,737 144 2,313
Travel/sports bags, rucksacks (P) 1,623 10,521 1,118 8,560 1,487 10,329
Travel/sports bags, rucksacks (T) 5,686 43,891 7,704 65,958 7,633 67,389
Shopping bags, boxes, cases (L) 119 2,628 149 4,079 308 5,205
Shopping bags, boxes, cases (P) 1,440 10,373 1,483 11,541 1,828 12,247
Shopping bags, boxes, cases (T) 3,965 25,590 4,474 29,531 4,835 34,835
Musical instrument cases, plastic 35 405 25 375 14 501
Gloves, leather or imitation 3,127 24,905 3,479 30,391 2,981 32,464
Note: (L)= made of leather or imitation; (P) = made of plastic; (T) = made of textile
73
Netherlands imports of selected product groups by source, 1995 -1997
Tonnes / US$ 1,000
HANDBAGS 1995 1996 1997

Total 6,509 55,025 6,401 59,574 3,118 37,080

Intra-EU 386 7,037 373 9,385 685 8,176
Extra-EU 6,123 47,988 6,028 50,189 2,433 28,904
Dev. countries 2,169 19,269 2,451 21,972 943 11,948
Top 3 suppliers:
Hong Kong 3,736 25,598 3,354 24,991 1,330 13,676
China 1,931 14,662 2,112 16,930 544 5,814
India 102 2,016 153 2,453 226 3,932
Dev. countries:
China 1,931 14,662 2,112 16,930 544 5,814
India 102 2,016 153 2,453 226 3,932
South Korea 35 782 24 634 25 604
Thailand 23 798 20 608 10 460
Pakistan 6 31 76 327 76 340
Indonesia 20 322 18 297 26 258
Turkey 9 231 8 205 10 175
SMALL LEATHER GOODS

1995 1996 1997
Total 1,945 28,349 2,272 36,089 1,962 37,858

Intra-EU 139 2,315 122 2,953 92 2,054
Extra-EU 1,806 26,034 2,150 33,135 1,870 35,804
Dev. countries 595 12,757 967 15,788 677 17,520
Top 3 suppliers:
Hong Kong 1,127 11,419 1,111 15,587 1,139 16,239
India 132 5,609 215 7,838 246 9,180
China 412 4,809 697 5,763 358 5,669
Dev. countries:
India 132 5,609 215 7,838 246 9,180
China 412 4,809 697 5,763 358 5,669
Tunisia 37 1,903 32 1,709 56 2,009
South Korea 7 168 4 202 9 448
Turkey 1 43 1 9 3 259
Thailand 7 250 5 218 6 252
74
BRIEFCASES 1995 1996 1997
Total 2,227 15,547 2,709 19,964 5,353 34,378

Intra-EU 150 2,209 169 3,385 343 3,440
Extra-EU 2,077 13,337 2,540 16,578 5,010 30,937
Dev. countries 907 5,249 1,141 5,103 2,761 12,669
Top 3 suppliers:
Hong Kong 1,080 6,724 1,263 10,013 2,126 16,641
China 660 3,304 953 3,451 2,635 11,644
Germany 59 939 44 889 219 1,376
Dev. countries:
China 660 3,304 953 3,451 2,635 11,644
India 12 172 31 515 20 351
Indonesia 154 959 107 518 65 318
BELTS 1995 1996 1997

Total 247 6,479 231 6,591 246 7,626

Intra-EU 112 4,213 133 4,695 110 3,977
Extra-EU 135 2,266 98 1,896 136 3,649
Dev. countries 109 1,349 64 826 83 984
Top 3 suppliers:
Italy 46 1,683 75 2,542 60 1,994
USA 4 293 11 503 32 1,442
Hong Kong 12 350 9 257 18 736
Dev. countries:
India 67 435 18 165 64 409
Turkey 7 303 4 138 6 229
Thailand 10 336 8 202 5 149
China 14 116 23 162 4 86
75
TRAVEL GOODS (Travel bags, sports bags, body-bags and rucksacks)
1995 1996 1997

Total 8,220 66,081 9,701 86,689 9,706 88,623

Intra-EU 780 10,141 825 11,959 987 15,234
Extra-EU 7,440 55,939 8,876 74,729 8,719 73,387
Dev. countries 2,442 19,564 4,005 26,481 3,740 27,442
Top 3 suppliers:
Hong Kong 4,233 28,214 4,397 42,257 4,629 43,242
China 2,101 14,614 3,634 21,372 3,025 21,747
Belgium 467 6,316 468 7,705 599 9,336
Dev. countries:
China 2,101 14,614 3,634 21,372 3,025 21,747
Vietnam 219 2,600 233 2,920 225 3,132
Malaysia 11 138 5 44 295 660
Thailand 22 379 27 437 38 478
South Korea 62 1,045 59 1,104 19 437
India 51 406 19 219 33 302
SUITCASES 1995 1996 1997

Total 6,741 41,103 7,987 46,536 8,400 47,441

Intra-EU 2,329 20,706 2,418 20,429 2,450 17,828
Extra-EU 4,412 20,397 5,569 26,107 5,950 29,613
Dev. countries 2,137 9,695 3,575 14,519 4,079 17,366
Top 3 suppliers:
China 1,676 6,252 2,710 9,499 3,245 12,848
Belgium 1,408 12,727 1,453 12,742 1,418 11,095
Hong Kong 1,865 7,531 1,599 8,161 1,334 7,251
Dev. countries:
China 1,676 6,252 2,710 9,499 3,245 12,848
Indonesia 404 2,648 808 4,219 760 3,705
Thailand 9 82 12 147 29 296
Mexico 0 0 7 46 10 176
India 8 145 17 297 13 128
76
OTHER BAGS/CASES/BOXES
1995 1996 1997

Total 5,052 30,782 5,521 36,073 6,584 44,474

Intra-EU 661 6,099 466 5,744 252 3,273
Extra-EU 4,391 24,683 5,055 30,329 6,332 41,200
Dev. countries 1,904 11,410 2,400 13,877 3,107 18,751
Top 3 suppliers:
Hong Kong 2,547 16,612 2,818 19,757 3,177 23,756
China 1,629 9,066 2,152 11,797 2,663 15,784
USA 93 1,772 149 2,543 181 2,966
Dev. countries:
China 1,629 9,066 2,152 11,797 2,663 15,784
South Korea 102 1,098 87 1,606 100 1,863
Vietnam 47 555 45 476 62 906
India 35 409 43 576 116 806
Pakistan 114 658 100 513 87 454
Imports of gloves by The Netherlands in percentages, 1995-1997
1995 1996 1997

Total 100 100 100 100 100 100

of which developing 76 69 73 69 68 70
countries
Total protective gloves 94 72 93 71 91 76

countries
Total fashionable and 6 28 7 29 9 24

special sport gloves
countries
77
EUROPEAN UNION - IMPORTS
EU imports of leather goods by source, 1995-1997

Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997

Total 441,373 4,226,830 476,486 4,679,262 529,783 5,094,091

Intra-EU 88,493 1,456,128 102,681 1,647,500 136,172 1,650,939
Extra-EU 352,880 2,770,702 373,805 3,031,762 393,611 3,443,152
Dev. countries 296,210 2,209,843 318,457 2,433,873 339,315 2,767,221
Top 5 suppliers:
China 257,667 1,686,316 281,098 1,909,825 296,293 2,164,192
Italy 13,123 429,190 13,489 497,959 14,294 468,898
India 20,208 277,844 20,508 286,206 21,741 309,811
Belgium 24,976 246,528 30,612 279,635 31,714 299,306
France 15,343 241,360 16,894 272,433 48,531 266,694
Dev. countries:
China 257,667 1,686,316 281,098 1,909,825 296,293 2,164,192
India 20,208 277,844 20,508 286,206 21,741 309,811
Vietnam 7,412 72,920 8,327 93,990 12,049 138,407
Pakistan 7,908 81,562 8,107 84,992 7,993 92,768
Thailand 5,055 75,100 4,611 76,607 4,623 76,107
South Korea 3,934 64,362 2,879 55,811 2,349 53,427
Indonesia 4,451 35,216 4,541 34,992 4,926 45,951
Turkey 1,108 26,493 862 22,137 1,229 28,656
Phillipines 564 13,552 586 14,408 1,452 22,050
Morocco 1,275 24,978 958 21,019 975 21,476
Tunisia 995 26,129 778 22,088 776 20,993
Argentina 227 6,642 234 7,789 265 9,832
Sri Lanka 584 7,079 327 5,970 706 8,242
Malaysia 562 6,724 659 6,243 1,093 7,643
Mexico 349 6,625 315 6,379 280 6,994
Slovenia 367 8,177 358 7,648 333 6,913
Mauritius 242 5,697 187 5,257 252 6,728
Brazil 384 7,600 428 7,101 517 6,129
Colombia 216 5,728 186 5,088 161 4,819
Bangladesh 256 1,620 119 1,669 203 3,611
Egypt 103 3,009 112 2,448 77 2,592
Syria 6 42 243 1,008 379 1,818
78
EU imports of leather goods by product group detailed, 1995-1997
Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997

Total 441,373 4,226,830 476,486 4,679,262 529,783 5,094,091

Intra-EU 88,493 1,456,128 102,681 1,647,500 136,172 1,650,939
Extra-EU 352,880 2,770,702 373,805 3,031,762 393,611 3,443,152
Dev. countries 296,210 2,209,843 318,457 2,433,873 339,315 2,767,221
Detailed product groups:

Briefcases, leather or imitation 6,689 97,188 6,341 103,915 7,227 116,253
Briefcases, plastic sheeting 9,227 51,980 9,103 56,874 8,573 58,613
Briefcases, plastic, textile surface 12,423 82,154 15,545 94,449 19,394 123,640
Suitcases, leather or imitation 3,917 56,445 4,495 61,160 3,872 66,329
Suitcases, plastic sheeting 7,778 53,709 10,696 66,137 10,464 67,965
Suitcases, moulded plastic 35,614 246,056 35,248 246,938 39,203 266,577
Suitcases plastic, textile surface 45,029 205,757 48,729 234,333 56,541 265,317
Brief-, suitcases, aluminum 8,129 34,141 6,292 29,451 5,761 29,716
Brief-, suitcases of other material 6,617 33,874 7,400 38,975 6,455 37,054
Handbag, leather or imitation 15,762 472,749 16,076 534,630 12,422 479,586
Handbag, plastic sheeting 24,841 205,550 30,984 246,096 18,593 171,762
Handbag, fabric surface 17,768 180,712 17,181 185,530 11,765 169,964
Handbag, cardboard or fibre 4,482 46,596 4,283 45,855 3,670 44,703
Belts, leather or imitation 4,208 151,205 4,366 159,083 4,731 158,570
Small leather goods., leather 7,612 288,671 7,226 311,520 8,134 348,499
Small leath.goods, plastic sheeting 6,022 85,265 7,808 101,246 8,641 126,059
Small leath.goods, textile surface 6,391 72,702 7,193 84,644 6,946 99,104
Small leath.goods, cardboard, fibre 4,482 46,596 4,283 45,855 3,670 44,703
Travel/sports bags, rucksacks (L) 3,071 53,669 2,755 50,300 2,578 54,621
Travel/sports bags, rucksacks (P) 17,422 145,962 21010 156,680 24,883 184,185
Travel/sports bags, rucksacks (T) 93,462 734,187 102,483 864,746 134,8451,067,134
Shopping bags, boxes, cases (L) 3,824 83,957 3,574 82,524 4,557 110,076
Shopping bags, boxes, cases (P) 12,244 90,289 15,131 107,329 17,410 129,200
Shopping bags, boxes, cases (T) 34,140 256,382 37,595 290,177 58,572 352,021
Musical instrument cases, plastic 350 3,979 503 5,015 591 6,621
Gloves, leather or imitation 49,869 447,054 50,186 475,801 50,285 515,819
Note: (L)= made of leather or imitation; (P) = made of plastic; (T) = made of textile
79
EU imports of selected product groups by source, 1995 -1997
Tonnes / US$ 1,000
HANDBAGS 1995 1996 1997

Total 62,853 905,607 68,524 1,012,112 46,450 866,015

Intra-EU 12,069 399,722 13,364 455,637 10,780 419,196
Extra-EU 50,784 505,885 55,160 556,475 35,670 446,819
Dev. countries 44,197 364,533 48,838 467,170 31,470 347,810
Top 3 suppliers:
Italy 5,170 222,500 4,829 260,966 4,539 234,950
China 37,680 286,565 42,714 329,024 24,552 197,049
India 3,466 64,112 3,420 69,803 3,756 79,410
Dev. countries:
China 37,680 286,565 42,714 329,024 24,552 197,049
India 3,466 64,112 3,420 69,803 3,756 79,410
Thailand 633 24,978 647 24,575 481 18,052
Morocco 488 10,880 298 8,273 294 8,213
Indonesia 173 3,665 242 4,277 289 6,924
Tunisia 284 7,512 210 6,134 222 6,465
Turkey 255 6,116 213 5,605 280 6,270
SMALL LEATHER GOODS

1995 1996 1997
Total 23,301 477,781 26,029 538,282 28,550 619,560

Intra-EU 3,771 153,170 4,362 177,810 4,307 186,512
Extra-EU 19,530 324,611 21,667 360,472 24,243 433,048
Dev. countries 16,351 236,758 18,652 300,684 20,958 364,069
Top 3 suppliers:
China 13,311 156,945 15,564 189,944 17,397 235,113
India 2,050 75,322 2,046 75,108 2,495 87,233
Italy 901 40,857 942 45,278 994 52,633
Dev. countries:
China 13,311 156,945 15,564 189,944 17,397 235,113
India 2,050 75,322 2,046 75,108 2,495 87,233
Thailand 171 8,790 223 9,478 204 10,671
South Korea 134 3,534 172 4,849 234 8,926
Turkey 105 4,552 132 4,021 119 3,936
Tunisia 79 3,770 77 3,529 90 3,163
Mexico 24 3,050 27 2,956 24 2,919
Mauritius 62 2,031 82 2,043 64 1,457
80
GLOVES 1995 1996 1997
Total 49,869 447,053 50,186 475,801 50,285 515,819

Intra-EU 3,734 62,451 3,467 67,128 3,609 68,872
Extra-EU 46,135 384,602 46,719 408,673 46,676 446,946
Dev. countries 43,346 341,688 45,056 365,767 45,040 400,686
Top 3 suppliers:
China 26,856 157,186 28,832 172,014 29,168 199,470
Pakistan 5,328 64,728 5,168 67,754 4,995 74,296
India 8,236 73,959 8,927 79,194 8,755 73,816
Dev. countries:
China 26,856 157,186 28,832 172,014 29,168 199,470
Pakistan 5,328 64,728 5,168 67,754 4,995 74,296
India 8,236 73,959 8,927 79,194 8,755 73,816
Indonesia 218 7,767 135 7,954 178 10,851
Philippines 107 7,450 102 8,105 114 10,792
Vietnam 322 4,494 365 7,315 394 10,792
Morocco 235 5,694 215 4,791 317 6,244
Thailand 1,353 7,965 379 4,551 168 4,403
EU Imports of gloves in percentages, 1995-1997
1995 1996 1997

Total 100 100 100 100 100 100

countries
Total protective gloves 92 70 92 67 91 62

countries
Total fashionable and 8 30 8 33 9 38

special sport gloves
countries
81
BRIEFCASES 1995 1996 1997
Total 28,339 231,322 30,989 255,238 35,194 298,506

Intra-EU 4,096 59,590 6,753 77,592 6,956 77,440
Extra-EU 24,243 171,732 24,236 177,642 28,238 221,066
Dev. countries 20,190 138,157 20,546 141,169 23,813 176,966
Top 3 suppliers:
China 17,639 105,547 18,515 113,428 22,027 151,342
Hong Kong 878 9,603 2,685 13,174 2,778 19,894
Netherlands 1,335 9,595 1,563 12,494 2,434 17,327
Dev. countries:
China 17,639 105,547 18,515 113,428 22,027 151,342
India 294 4,223 261 4,961 309 5,799
Vietnam 516 4,442 604 5,339 543 5,455
Indonesia 946 4,579 633 2,660 525 2,478
Slovenia 48 2,126 32 1,862 35 2,209
South Korea 243 4,504 197 3,471 94 1,859
Morocco 124 1,619 60 1,617 60 1,805
Turkey 131 3,441 81 2,196 35 1,197
BELTS 1995 1996 1997

Total 4,208 151,205 4,366 159,083 4,731 158,570

Intra-EU 3,098 124,710 3,479 135,436 3,579 124,747
Extra-EU 1,110 26,495 887 23,647 1,152 33,823
Dev. countries 854 18,482 655 15,025 772 18,484
Top 3 suppliers:
Italy 1,611 67,497 1,599 70,276 1,810 65,152
Netherlands 601 17,520 611 16,792 570 15,464
Germany 244 12,663 287 13,342 200 11,902
Dev. countries:
Turkey 183 7,212 148 6,036 263 9,224
China 137 2,720 153 2,514 99 2,339
Tunisia 39 1,698 38 1,511 40 1,551
India 177 1,631 79 905 157 1,472
Argentina 15 503 21 635 37 1,098
Pakistan 86 1,153 69 859 63 829
Morocco 98 1,073 78 798 71 719
Mexico 62 688 38 504 20 409
82
SUITCASES 1995 1996 1997
Total 107,084 629,982 112,860 676,993 122,296 732,958

Intra-EU 35,338 297,144 37,716 318,742 38,245 308,697
Extra-EU 71,746 332,838 75,144 358,249 84,051 424,261
Dev. countries 57,010 250,334 59,632 271,097 69,599 333,722
Top 3 suppliers:
China 51,541 207,123 53,518 226,055 62,076 279,346
Belgium 13,350 109,321 12,395 102,007 12,562 101,293
France 9,720 75,507 10,111 83,800 9,144 69,005
Dev. countries:
China 51,541 207,123 53,518 226,055 62,076 279,346
Indonesia 2,587 13,688 3,155 15,516 3,401 17,836
Thailand 490 4,539 922 7,328 1,180 9,554
Vietnam 893 5,544 545 4,366 1,078 7,520
India 524 4,634 631 5,687 566 4,807
South Korea 293 4,253 235 4,039 179 3,943
Philippines 150 2,054 143 1,809 388 3,015
OTHER BAGS/CASES/BOXES
1995 1996 1997

Total 52,170 403,779 56,472 436,568 82,656 555,582

Intra-EU 5,732 79,052 7,317 92,314 23,115 88,445
Extra-EU 46,438 324,727 49,155 344,254 59,541 467,137
Dev. countries 37,968 282,196 41,910 312,727 49,801 415,756
Top 3 suppliers:
China 31,494 214,358 35,152 241,658 42,054 330,002
Hong Kong 3,142 23,015 3,458 27,017 3,966 32,779
Germany 1,020 16,391 1,629 20,358 963 20,245
Dev. countries:
China 31,494 214,358 35,152 241,658 42,054 330,002
India 1,482 14,837 1,270 11,863 1,759 16,369
Vietnam 765 7,846 934 10,402 1,491 16,127
South Korea 840 11,862 571 10,833 568 15,060
Pakistan 1,751 9,823 2,236 11,889 2,221 12,813
Thailand 604 8,272 888 11,058 555 7,800
83
EUROPEAN UNION - EXPORTS
EU exports of leather goods by product group, 1995-1997

Tonnes / US$ 1,000
1995 1996 1997
Total 165,518 3,870,278 129,849 4,355,440 143,688 4,369,138

Intra-EU 121,916 1,553,130 87,145 1,760,772 101,942 1,852,751
Extra-EU 43,602 2,317,148 42,704 2,594,668 41,746 2,516,387
Dev. countries 4,644 120,801 4,898 142,652 5,922 141,882
Handbags 25,988 1,647,250 25,624 1,827,593 21,824 1,621,654

Belts 47,058 300,171 5,531 328,725 5,356 319,283
Briefcases 5,433 133,035 6,391 136,047 8,792 162,454
Gloves 5,710 103,112 5,842 113,420 5,158 129,383
Travel goods 25,641 375,414 27,315 423,774 36,169 606,839
Suitcases 39,554 451,130 40,606 472,207 47,023 494,160
84
APPENDIX 2 STANDARDS ORGANISATIONS
INTERNATIONAL
International Standardisation Organisation (ISO)
Address : P.O.Box 56, CH-1211 Geneva, Switzerland
Telephone : + 41 (0) 22 7490111
Fax : + 41 (0) 22 7333430
Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES)

Address : 15 Chemin des Animones, 1219 Chatelet, Geneva, Switzerland
Telephone : + 41 (0) 22 9799139
Fax : + 41 (0) 22 7973417
EUROPEAN UNION
European Commission, Directorate General III (Textile and Leather)
Address : Rue de la Loi 200, 1049 Brussels, Belgium
Telephone : + 32 (0) 2 2963063
Fax : + 32 (0) 2 299638
International Trade Centre (ITC)

Address : Palais des Nations, P.O. Box 10, 1211 Geneva 10, Switzerland
Telephone : + 41 (0) 22 7300111
Fax : + 41 (0) 22 7334439
E-mail : itcreg@intracen.org
Internet : http://www.intracen.org
TÜV - Rheinland Sicherheit und Umweltschutz GmbH

Safety and environmental institute of Rheinland
Address : Am Grauen Stein, D-51105 Köln, Germany
Telephone : + 49 (0) 221 8062958
Fax : + 49 (0) 221 8062882
Institut Fresenius Gruppe

Address : Im Maisel 14, D-65232 Taunusstein-Neuhof, Germany
Telephone : + 49 (0) 6128 744155
Fax : + 49 (0) 6128 744201
Prüf- und Forschungsinstitut Pirmasens

Address : Hans-Sachs-Straße 2, D-66955 Pirmasens, Germany
Telephone : + 49 (0) 6331 74016
Fax : + 49 (0) 6331 74507
85
THE NETHERLANDS
TNO
National Technical Centre for Research; department for leather good and footwear
Address : P.O. Box 6235, 5600 HE Eindhoven, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 40 2650300
Fax : + 31 (0) 40 2650301
Stichting Milieukeur
Contactpoint for the EU Ecolabel and for the Milieukeur label
Address : Eisenhowerlaan 150, 2517 KP Den Haag, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 70 3586300
Fax : + 31 (0) 70 3502517
86
APPENDIX 3 SOURCES OF PRICE INFORMATION
International Trade Center (ITC)

Address : Palais des Nations, P.O. Box 10, 1211 Geneve 10, Switzerland
Telephone : + 41 (0) 22 7300111
Fax : + 41 (0) 22 7334439
Internet : http://www.leathernet.com
Filiere Cuir / Leathermarkets

Address : 44, Rue Bayen, Paris, France
Telephone : + 33 (0) 1 40687391
Fax : + 33 (0) 1 40687922
E-mail : fladdei@leathermarkets.com
Internet : http://www.leathermarkets.com
Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations (FAO)

Publisher of "Monthly Bulletin of Statistics", "Commodity and Market Review"
Address : Viale della Terme di Caracella, 00100 Rome, Italy
Telephone : + 39 (0) 6 57051
Fax : + 39 (0) 6 57053152
E-Mail : publication-sales@FAO.org
Internet : http://www.apps.fao.org
87
APPENDIX 4 TRADE ASSOCIATIONS
EUROPEAN UNION
COTANCE
Federation of European Leather manufacturers
Address : Rue Galliard 3, B-1040 Brussels, Belgium
Telephone : + 32 (0) 2 5127703
Fax : + 32 (0) 2 5129157
AUSTRIA
Verband der Lederwaren und Kofferindustrie
Association of the Austrian Leather Industry
Address : P.O. Box 313, 1045 Wien, Austria
Telephone : + 43 (0) 1 5010534
Fax : + 43 (0) 1 5020627
BELGIUM
Professional Council for the Leather Industry
Address : Avenue de la Joyeuse Entrée 17-21, B-1040 Brussels, Belgium
Telephone : + 32 (0) 2 2338837
Fax : + 32 (0) 2 2338912
DENMARK
Laedervarefabrikant Forening
Association of the Danish Leather Industry
Address : Dansk Industri, DK 1787 Copenhagen V, Denmark
Telephone : + 45 (0) 45 33773377
Fax : + 45 (0) 45 33773350
FRANCE
Fédération Française de la Maroquinerie
Association of Leather Goods Manufacturers
Address : 59, Boulevard Magenta, 75010 Paris, France
Telephone : + 33 (0) 1 46074455
Fax : + 33 (0) 1 46078789
Conseil National du Cuir

National Leather Council
Address : 109, Faubourg, Saint Honoré, 75373 Paris Cedex 08, France
Telephone : + 33 (0) 1 43590569
Fax : + 33 (0) 1 43593002
88
GERMANY
Bundesverband Lederwaren und Kunststofferzeugnisse E.V.
Association of the German Leather Goods and Luggage Industry
Address : Kaiserstrasse 108, P.O. Box 102055, 63020 Offenbach am Main, Germany
Telephone : + 49 (0) 69 887250
Fax : + 49 (0) 69 8004261
Bundesverband der Deutsche Lederindustrie

Association of German retailers for leather goods
Address : Am Lyskirchen 14, 50676 Köln, Germany
Telephone : + 49 (0) 221 9215090
Fax : + 49 (0) 221 92150910
ITALY
AIMPES
Association of Italian Leather Goods manufacturers
Address : Corso D'Italia 17, 20122 Milano, Italy
Telephone : + 39 (0) 2 89010020
Fax : + 39 (0) 2 3264312
IRELAND
Irish Leather Federation
Address : Quay Street, Dungarvan, Waterford, Ireland
Telephone : + 353 (0) 58 41500
Fax : + 353 (0) 58 42834
PORTUGAL
Associacao Portugeuesa dos Industriais de Curtumes
Association of the Portugese Leather Industry
Address : Av. Fernao de Magalhaens 460 5e, 4300 Porto, Portugal
Telephone : + 351 (0) 2 74115
Fax : + 351 (0) 2 74139
SPAIN
Federacion Espagnola de fabricantes de Maroquinera Articulas de Viajes Y Afines
Association of Spanish Leather Goods manufacturers
Address : Calle Velazquez no. 4 (9 Planta), 28001 Madrid, Spain
Telephone : + 34 (0) 91 7257326
Fax : + 34 (0) 91 7257328
UNITED KINGDOM
British Leather Goods Manufacturers Association
Address : 10 Vyse Street, Birmingham B18 6LT, UK
Telephone : + 44 (0) 121 2362657
Fax : + 44 (0) 121 2363921
89
Leather Producers' Association
Address : Leather Trade House, Kings Park Road Moulton Park,
Northhampton NN3 6JD, UK
Telephone : + 44 (0) 1604 679999
Fax : + 44 (0) 1604 679998
THE NETHERLANDS
Bond van Nederlandse Lederwaren en kofferfabrikanten
Association of the Dutch Leather Industry
Address : P.O. Box 90154, 5000 LG Tilburg, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 13 5944778
Fax : + 31 (0) 13 5944749
Vereniging van Detailhandelaren in Lederwaren en Reisartikelen (DLR)

Association of retailer traders in leather goods and luggage
Address : Bureau P.J. van Rijn, P.O. Box 96070, 1006 EB Amsterdam,
The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 6100820
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 6192215
90
APPENDIX 5 TRADE FAIR ORGANISERS
OFFENBACHER MESSE - MODEFORUM

Frequency : Four times a year
Address : Offenbacher Messe, Kaiserstrasse 108-112, D-63065 Offenbach a.Main,
Germany
Telephone : + 49 (0) 69 2281550
Fax : + 49 (0) 69 82975560
E-Mail : info@messe-offenbach.de
Internet : http://www.messe-offenbach.de
FRANKFURTER MESSE - TENDENZE

Frequency : Twice a year
Address : Messe und Ausstellung Gelände, P.O. Box 150210, Frankfurt/Main,
Germany
Telephone : + 49 (0) 69 75750
Fax : + 49 (0) 69 75756433
Internet : http://www.1.tendenze.de
MIPEL
Address : Milan Fairgrounds Corso Italia 17, 20112 Milano, Italy
Telephone : + 39 (0) 2 89010020/ 801026
Fax : + 39 (0) 2 89010345 / 865732
CAMPIONARE DI FIRENZE
Frequency : Annual
Address : Via della Scala 87, 50123 Firenze, Italy
Telephone : + 39 (0) 55 215867/282792
Fax : + 39 (0) 55 2396769
TRADE MART
Frequency : Monthly
Address : Atomium Square p.b. 211, 1020 Brussels, Belgium
Telephone : + 32 (0) 2 4784989
Fax : + 32 (0) 2 4786258
IBERBIEL
Address : Velasques 4, 9th., 28001 Madrid, Spain
Telephone : + 34 (0) 91 57763123
Fax : + 34 (0) 91 5775899
91
TRADE MART
Frequency : Twice a year; permanent stands can be visited every first and third Monday
in the month
Address : Koninklijke Nederlandse Jaarbeurs, P.O. Box 8500, 3503 RM Utrecht,
The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 30 2955911/2955900
Fax : + 31 (0) 30 2940379
ASIA PACIFIC LEATHER FAIR

Frequency : Annual
Address : Miller Freeman Asia Ltd, 102-5 Stanhope House, 738 Kings Road,
Quarry Bay, Hong Kong
Telephone : + 852 (0) 2 8276211
Fax : + 852 (0) 2 8277831/7064
Internet : http://www.aplf.com
LINEA PELLE
Frequency : Annual
Address : Ente Arenpelle, Via Brisa 2, 20123 Milano, Italy
Telephone : + 39 (0) 2 801026
Fax : + 39 (0) 2 860032
SEMAINE DE CUIR - INTERNATIONAL LEATHER WEEK

Frequency : Annual
Address : 109 Foubourg Saint-Honoré, 75373 Paris Cedex 08 France
Telephone : + 33 (0) 1 43590569
Fax : + 33 (0) 1 43593002
E-mail : leather@wcube.fr
Internet : http://www.leatherfairs.com
MEET IN AFRICA
Frequency : Biennial
Conference on the internationl leather trade organised by the International Trade Centre (ITC)
Telephone : + 41 (0) 22 7300295
Fax : + 41 (0) 22 7300580
E-mail : sauer@intracen.org
Internet : http://www.leathernet.com/africa/
92
APPENDIX 6 TRADE PRESS
INTERNATIONAL
Leather, The International Journal / International Leather Guide
Address : Miller Freeman UK Ltd, Sovereign Way, Tonbridge, Kent TN9 1RW, UK
Telephone : + 44 (0) 1732 377485
Fax : + 44 (0) 1732 361534
FRANCE/ INTERNTIONAL
Filiere Cuir / Leathermarkets
Address : 44, Rue Bayen, Paris, France
Telephone : + 33 (0) 1 40687391
Fax : + 33 (0) 1 40687922
E-mail : fladdei@leathermarkets.com
Internet : http://www.leathermarkets.com
GERMANY
Lederwaren Report
Address : Otto Sternefeld GmbH, P.O. Box 111249, 40512 Düsseldorf, Germany
Telephone : + 49 (0) 211 577080
Fax : + 49 (0) 211 5770812
E-Mail : verlag@sternefeld.de
Lederwaren Zeitung
Address : Umschau Zeitschriftenverlag GmbH, P.O. Box 110262, 60037 Frankfurt,
Germany
Telephone : + 49 (0) 69 26000
Fax : + 49 (0) 69 2600666
E-Mail : umschau@t-online.de
ITALY
ARPEL
Address : ARS Arpel Group s.r.l., Via Nievo 33, 20145 Milano, Italy
Telephone : + 39 (0) 2 315951
Fax : + 39 (0) 2 33611619
BELGIUM
Lederwaren Tribune
Address : Brussels Int. Trade Mart, Atomium Square p.b. 211, 1020 Brussel, Belgium
Telephone : + 32 (0) 2 4784989
Fax : + 32 (0) 2 4786258
93
DENMARK
Sko & Laedervarer
Address : Danmarks Skohandlerforening, H.C. Andersen Boulevard 48, Kopenhagen,
Denmark
Telephone : + 45 (0) 33 154608
Fax : + 45 (0) 33 931708
THE NETHERLANDS
Trend Boutique
Address : Blauw Media uitgeverij B.V., Postbus 1043, 3600 BA Maarssen,
The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 346 574040
Fax : + 31 (0) 346 576056
E-Mail : trendboutique@blauwmedia.demon.nl
94
APPENDIX 7 TRADE PROMOTION ORGANISATIONS
INTERNATIONAL
International Trade Center (ITC)
Market News Service (MNS)
Division of Product and Market Development
Telephone : + 41 (0) 22 7300111
Fax : + 41 (0) 22 730 05
Internet : http://www.intracen.org
AUSTRIA
Austria Federal Economic Chamber
Address : Wiener Hauptstrasse 63, 1045 Vienna, Austria
Telephone : + 43 (0) 1 501050
Fax : + 43 (0) 1 50206250
E-mail : hotline@wkoe.wk.or.at
Internet : http://www.wk.or.at
DENMARK
The Danish Import Promotion Office for products from developing countries (DIPO)
Address : Danish Chamber of Commerce, Børsen, 1217 Copenhagen K, Denmark
Telephone : + 45 (0) 33 950500
Fax : + 45 (0) 33 325216
E-mail : dok@commerce.dk
GERMANY
GTZ/PROTRADE, German Agency for Technical Cooperation
Address : Dag-Hammerskjöld-weg 1-5, P.O. Box 5180, 65726 Eschborn, Germany
Telephone : + 49 (0) 6196 790000
Fax : + 49 (0) 6196 797414
E-mail : postmaster@gtz.de
BFAI, Federal Office of Foreign Trade Information, Germany

Berlin Office
Address : Scharnhornstrasse 36, P.O. Box 650268, 13302 Berlin, Germany
Telephone : + 49 (0) 30 20145200
Fax : + 49 (0) 30 20145204
Köln Office
Address : Agrippastrasse 87-93, P.O. Box 100522, 50455 Köln, Germany
Telephone : + 49 (0) 221 20570
Fax : + 49 (0) 221 2057212
E-mail : 106035.377@compuserve.com
95
ITALY
ICE, National Institute for Foreign Trade
Address : Via Liszt 21, 00144 Rome, Italy
Telephone : + 39 (0) 6 59921
Fax : + 39 (0) 6 59926900
E-mail : sitoece@ice.it
Internet : http://www.ice.it
THE NETHERLANDS
CBI, Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries
Address : P.O. Box 30009, 3001 DA Rotterdam, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 10 2013434
Fax : + 31 (0) 10 4114081
E-mail : cbi@cbi.nl
Internet : http://www.cbi.nl
NORWAY
The Norwegian Agency for Development Cooperation (NORAD)
Address : Tolbugaten 31, P.O. Box 8034 Deo, Oslo, Norway
Telephone : + 47 (0) 22 314400
Fax : + 47 (0) 22 314403
E-mail : postmottak@oslo.norad.telemax.no
SWEDEN
The Swedish International Development Cooperation Agency (SIDA)
Department for Infrastructure & Economic Cooperation
Address : S-105 25 Stockholm, Sweden
Telephone : + 46 (0) 8 6985000
Fax : + 46 (0) 8 208864
SWITZERLAND
SIPPO, Swiss Import Promotion Programme
Address : Stampsenbachstrasse 85, 8035 Zürich, Switzerland
Telephone : + 41 (0) 1 3655151
Telefax : + 41 (0) 1 3655221
E-mail : info.zurich@osec.ch
96
APPENDIX 8 OTHER USEFUL ADDRESSES
INTERNATIONAL
International Chamber of Commerce
Address : 38, cours Albert 1er, 75008 Paris, France
Telephone : + 33 (0) 1 49532828
Fax : + 33 (0) 1 49532942
Internet : http://www.ecib.com
Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations (FAO)

Commodities and Trade Division
Address : Viale della Terme di Caracella, 00100 Rome, Italy
Telephone : + 39 (0) 6 57051
Fax : + 39 (0) 6 57053152
E-Mail : publication-sales@FAO.org
Internet : http://www.apps.fao.org
EUROPE
European Commission, Directorate General for External Relations
Address : Rue de la Loi 200, 1049 Brussels, Belgium
Telephone : + 32 (0) 2 2991111
Fax : no general telefax number
Association of the European Chambers of Commerce and industry

Address : Rue Archimède 5, P.O. Box 4, B-1000 Brussels, Belgium
Telephone : + 32 (0) 2 2310715
Fax : +32 (0) 2 2300038
E-mail : eurocham@mail.interpac.be
Bureau for official EU publications

Address : Rue Mercier 2, L-2985 Luxembourg, Luxembourg
Telephone : + 352 (0) 49 9281
Fax : + 325 (0) 49 5719
E-mail : alexander.von-witzleben@opoce.cec.be
Eurostat, Statistical Bureau of the European Union

Address : Rue Alcide de Gasperi, L-2920 Luxembourg, Luxembourg
Telephone : + 352 (0) 4301 34567
Fax : + 352 (0) 4301 3015
E-mail : agnesn@eurostat.datashop.lu
97
Corporate Intelligence Group (CIG)
Address : 48 Bedford Square, London WC1B 3DP, United Kingdom
Telephone : + 44 (0) 171 8143814
Fax : + 44 (0) 171 6969004
Internet : http://www.cior.com
THE NETHERLANDS
CBI
Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries
Telephone : + 31 (0) 10 2013434
Fax : + 31 (0) 10 4114081
E-mail : cbi@cbi.nl
Belasting Dienst Douane (Customs)

Dept. External and Internal Communication
Address : P.O.Box 50964, 3007 BG Rotterdam, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 10 2904949
Special information number + 31 (0) 800-143
Fax : + 31 (0) 10-2904875
Internet : http://www.douane.nl
Centraal Bureau voor de Statistiek (CBS)

Central Bureau of Statistics
Address : P.O.Box 4481, 6401 CZ Heerlen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 70 3373800
Fax : + 31 (0) 70 3877429
Ministry of Agriculture
Address : Bezuidenhoutseweg 73, 2500 EK The Hague, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 70 3786868
Fax : + 31 (0) 70 3786123
Ministry of Economic Affairs (EVD - Trade Information)

(to be mainly contacted through the internet)
Address : Bezuidenhoutseweg 181, 2500 EC The Hague, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 70 3798933
Fax : + 31 (0) 70 3797878
E-mail : evd@evd.nl
Internet : http://www.evd.nl
98
Environmental regulations (Ministry of Housing,
Spatial Planning&Environment/VROM)
Address : Rijnstraat 8, 2515 XP The Hague, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 70 3394638
Fax : + 31 (0) 70 3391296
Stichting Verpakking en Milieu (SVM)

Foundation for Packaging and Environment
Address : P.O. Box 95598, 2509 CN The Hague, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 70 3819091
Fax : + 31 (0) 70 3819016
Greenbuss®
c/o CBI, Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries
Telephone : + 31 (0) 10 2013434
Fax : + 31 (0) 10 4114081
E-mail : greenbuss@cbi.nl
99
APPENDIX 9 LIST OF DEVELOPING COUNTRIES
Please note that the OECD list of developing countries, as applied in this market survey,
may include countries that are usually not considered as developing countries (e.g. South
Korea). The countries indicated with * are ACP countries.
Afghanistan Egypt Malta South Africa
Albania El Salvador Marshall Islands Sri Lanka
Algeria Equatorial Guinea * Mauritania * St. Helena
Angola Eritrea * Mauritius * St. Kitts-Nevis
Anguilla Ethiopia * Mayotte St. Lucia *
Antigua and Barbuda Fiji * Mexico St. Vincent and Gren.
* French Polynesia Micronesia, Fed. *
Argentina Gabon * States of Moldova Sudan *
Armenia Gambia * Mongolia Surinam *
Aruba Guatemala Montserrat Swaziland *
Azerbaijan Georgia Morocco Syria
Bahrain Ghana * Mozambique * Tajikistan
Bangladesh Gibraltar Myanmar Tanzania *
Barbados * Grenada * Namibia * Thailand
Belize * Guinea * Nauru Timor
Benin * Guinea-Bissau * Nepal Togo *
Bhutan Guyana * Netherlands Antilles Tokelau
Bolivia Haiti * New Caledonia Tonga *
Bosnia & Honduras Nicaragua Trinidad & Tobago *
Herzegovina India Niger * Tunisia
Botswana * Indonesia Nigeria * Turkey
Brazil Iran Niue Turkmenistan
Burkina Faso * Iraq Northern Marianas Turks & Caicos
Burundi * Jamaica Oman Islands *
Cambodia Jordan Pakistan Tuvalu *
Cameroon * Kazakstan Palau Islands Uganda *
Cape Verde * Kenya Palestinian Admin. Uruguay
Central African Kiribati Areas Uzbekistan
Republic * Chad * Korea, Rep. of Panama Vanuatu *
Chile Korea, South Papua New Guinea * Venezuela
China Kyrghyz Rep. Paraguay Vietnam
Colombia Laos Peru Virgin Islands (UK)
Comoros * Lebanon Philippines Wallis & Futuna
Congo * Lesotho * Rwanda * Western Samoa *
Cook Islands Liberia * São Tomé & Principe Yemen
Costa Rica Libya * Yugoslavia, Fed. Rep.
Côte d'Ivoire * Macao Saudi Arabia Zaire *
Croatia Macedonia Senegal * Zambia *
Cuba Madagascar * Seychelles * Zimbabwe *
Djibouti * Malawi * Sierra Leone *
Dominica * Malaysia Slovenia
Dominican Republic * Maldives Solomon Islands *
Ecuador Mali * Somalia *
100
APPENDIX 10 LIST OF NETHERLANDS IMPORTERS
Adventure Bags B.V.

Importer of handbags, suitcases, travel goods, attaché cases, school satchels, beauty cases
and shopping bags
Address : De Rolle 5, 8381 CR Vledder, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 521 382957
Fax : + 31 (0) 521 382851
A.G.V.O.
Importer of handbags and small leather goods
Address : Heuvelstraat 18, 5101 TC Dongen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 162 320710
Fax : + 31 (0) 162 320712
Ahrends Agenturen
Agent for handbags, suitcases, travel goods, attaché cases, shopping bags, beauty cases and
small leather goods
Address : Brinklaan 32, 8161 CZ Epe, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 578 628962
Fax : + 31 (0) 578 628991
Arwa B.V.
Importer of handbags, suitcases, travel goods, attaché cases, school satchels, computer
cases and small leather goods
Address : Franciscusweg 227, 1216 SE Hilversum, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 35 6212757
Fax : + 31 (0) 35 6215791
Bagxs
Agent for trendy travel goods, rucksacks, sports bags, body bags and shopping bags
Address : P.O. Box 69255, 1060 CE Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 6153424
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 6153424
The Bagsac Company

Importer of handbags and rucksacks
Address : Kon. Wilhelminaplein, Berghaus Plaza IVV 2-4, 1063 HK Amsterdam,
The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 6158873
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 6158885
101
Beernink & Beernink B.V.
Importer of small leather goods
Address : Kerkenlaan 11, 6651 KN Druten, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 487 517278
Fax : + 31 (0) 487 517459
Black Cat
Importer of belts
Address : P.O. Box 42, 5120 AA Rijen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 161 224537
Fax : + 31 (0) 161 227379
Bosboom International B.V.

Importer of handbags, travel goods, school satchels, shopping bags and small leather goods
Address : Nieuwgraaf 29, 6920 AB Duiven, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 26 3116444
Fax : + 31 (0) 26 3115549
De Bijenkorf B.V.
Department store (owned by Vroom & Dreesmann)
Address : P.O. Box 12870, 1100 AW Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 6526526
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 6973926
Cales, Gebr.
Address : P.O.Box 20, 5150 AA Drunen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 416 372334
Fax : + 31 (0) 416 379502
Castelijn & Berends Lederwaren B.V.

Importer of small leather goods, handbags, travel goods, attaché cases, document cases,
belts and rucksacks
Address : Altenaweg 16, 5140 AM Waalwijk, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 416 332003
Fax : + 31 (0) 416 331028
Coppens Lederwaren B.V.

Importer of handbags, suitcases, trolleys, travel goods, attaché cases, school satchels and
beauty cases
Address : Biest Houtakker, Biestsestraat 42, 5080 AB Hilvarenbeek, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 13 5051856
Fax : + 31 (0) 13 5054038
102
Cossini B.V.
Manufacturer and importer of handbags
Address : Kempenbaan 10, 5121 DM Rijen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 161 240480
Fax : + 31 (0) 161 240481
Compunote Europe B.V.

Importer of computer cases and document cases
Address : Oude Naarderweg 17, 1251 BJ Laren, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 35 5381042
Fax : + 31 (0) 35 5381139
Crimson Lederwaren B.V.

Importer of handbags, travel bags, suitcases, portfolios and small leather goods
Address : P.O. Box 10, 5100 AA Dongen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 162 313955
Fax : + 31 (0) 162 317561
Delsey Benelux
Importer of travel goods (distributor of the brand Kipling)
Address : Bisonspoor 368, 3605 JX Maarssen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 346 554604
Fax : + 31 (0) 346 571031
Eltine B.V.
Importer of handbags, travel bags, suitcases, attaché cases, small leather goods
Address : P.O. Box 3023, 4700 GA Roosendaal, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 165 562233
Fax : + 31 (0) 165 562982
Eurofox B.V.
Agent for suitcases, travel goods, handbags and small leather goods
Address : Weteringstraat 23-25, 7041 GW 's-Heerenberg, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 314 674126
Fax : + 31 (0) 314 667336
F&H Agenturen
Agent for travel goods, rucksacks, small leather goods (agent for the brand Camel bags)
Address : Scheldestraat 30, 7555WS Hengelo, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 74 2433003
Fax : + 31 (0) 74 2433003
103
F&M - Richard Tummers, Fashion&Mode Accessories
Importer/agent of belts, handbags and small leather goods
Address : Ambijerstraat Noord 162, 6333 ZJ Schimmert, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 43 3521474
Fax : + 31 (0) 43 3521473
Flying Dutchman B.V.

Importer of handbags, travel goods and attaché cases,
Address : Lagedijk 29C, 3998 ZR Schalkwijk, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 30 6012134
Fax : + 31 (0) 30 6011905
Gecona v.o.f.
Importer of small leather goods and smokers' articles
Address : Sprokenpad 5, 3813 DP Amersfoort, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 33 4728583
Fax : + 31 (0) 33 4757203
Geeraerts Lederwaren
Importer of small leather goods, handbags and spectacle cases
Address : F. Bolstraat 43, 5900 AC Venlo, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 77 3513879
Fax : + 31 (0) 77 3546660
Geharo B.V.
Importer of small leather goods and premiums
Address : Rijksweg 24, 6996 AC Drempt, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 313 472707
Fax : + 31 (0) 521 471419
Van Gils Leather B.V.

Manufacturer/importer of handbags, attaché cases, document cases and school satchels
Address : Dortseweg 9, 4854 ZG Bavel, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 161 433456
Fax : + 31 (0) 161 432874
Goldkrone Lederwaren B.V.

Buying group for leather goods
Address : Laaggraven 5b, 3439 LG Nieuwengein, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 30 2801584
Fax : + 31 (0) 30 2802376
104
H&H Trading V.O.F.
Importer of tool cases
Address : Prins Alexanderweg 26-A, 3712 AB Huis ter Heide, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 30 6917000
Fax : + 31 (0) 30 6915626
Hema B.V.
Department store (owned by Vroom & Dreesman)
Address : P. O. Box 23220, 1100 DS Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 3114411
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 3114000
Henzo B.V.
Manufacturer/importer of attaché cases, school satchels and document cases
Address : Keulsebaan 510, 6040 AC Roermond, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 475 373366
Fax : + 31 (0) 475 340099
Herwalt's Tassenfabriek B.V.

Manufacturer/importer of handbags, suitcases, travel goods, attaché cases, school satchels
and small leather goods
Address : Aaltenseweg 2-4, 7130 AA Lichtenvoorde, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 544 371859
Fax : + 31 (0) 544 375925
Horsten Lederwaren B.V.

Importer of handbags, small leather goods and premiums
Address : Nobelstraat 6, 5050 AE Goirle, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 13 5349126
Fax : + 31 (0) 13 5341413
Hurkmans Lederwaren B.V.

Address : Industrieweg 16, 506666 ZG Moergestel, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 13 5132013
Fax : + 31 (0) 13 5133815
IGO POST B.V.

Address : Haverdijk 5, 5704 RC Helmond, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 492 530100
Fax : + 31 (0) 492 530203
105
Image Trading International
Importer of premiums
Address : P.O. Box 287, 2910 AG Nieuwerkerk, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 180 331600
Fax : + 31 (0) 180 320617
Interlux Leder
Address : P.O. Box 19, 5370 AA Ravenstein, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 486 412082
Fax : + 31 (0) 486 411047
Jago-Shawls - Jan van Gool B.V.

Importer of belts, gloves and premiums
Address : Jan Rebelstraat 2, 1006 GC Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 6199805
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 6199109
E-mail : hdoffice@jago.nl
Jolly Bag
Importer of handbags, suitcases and travel goods
Address : Koematen 5C, 8330 AG Steenwijk, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 521 515406
Fax : + 31 (0) 521 515485
Joss Mode - Accessoires B.V>

Importer of belts
Address : P.O. Box 69376, 1060 CK Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 6157479
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 6152419
Kangaro KTC B.V.

Importer of attaché cases, document cases and school satchels
Address : Coenensparkstraat 17, 7200 AG Zutphen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 575 594777
Fax : + 31 (0) 575 594750
Karibu African art

Agent for travel goods, rucksacks and small leather goods from African countries
Address : Agricolastraat 37A, 9711 TP Groningen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 50 3181279
Fax : + 31 (0) 50 3181279
106
Kemperman Lederwaren B.V.
Importer of handbags, suitcases, travel goods, attaché cases, school satchels, beauty cases
and shopping bags
Address : Leuverinkstraat 10, 7011 EN Gaanderen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 315 323361
Fax : + 31 (0) 315 323220
Kipling Nederland B.V.

Importer of handbags, suitcases, travel goods, attaché cases and computer bags (distributor
of the brand: kipling)
Address : Bisonspoor 368, 3605 JX Maarssen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 346 553005
Fax : + 31 (0) 346 553889
Klasse (Erwin van den Boogaard)

Agent for handbags, suitcases, travel goods, attaché cases, computer bags and premiums
Address : Klein Wolfslaar 16, 4854 PK Bavel, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 161 434009
Fax : + 31 (0) 161 434009
Knirps Benelux B.V.

Address : Van Lennepstraat 5, 5025 TR Tilburg, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 13 4632258
Fax : + 31 (0) 13 4672980
La Moda / Mod'Inez B.V.

Importer of handbags, travel goods and shopping bags
Address : Grotestraat 3, 5150 AA Drunen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 416 320233
Fax : + 31 (0) 416 320234
Laimbock handschoenen en lederwaren B.V.

Importer of handbags, gloves and small leather goods
Address : Diamantlaan 10, 2130 KC Hoofddorp, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 23 5626565
Fax : + 31 (0) 23 5622770
Lecombi b.a.
Buying group for leather goods
Address : P.O.Box 616, 4870 AP Etten-Leur, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 76 5016110
Fax : + 31 (0) 76 5015960
107
Leder Express B.V.
Importer of handbags, suitcases, travel goods, attaché cases, shopping bags and small
leather goods
Address : Zeverijnstraat 40, 1200 AK Hilversum, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 35 6232273
Fax : + 31 (0) 35 6215803
Leitmotiv B.V.
Importer of beauty cases and shopping bags
Address : Waterspiegelplein 10G, 1051 PB Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 6253366
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 6238207
Lejan koffer& lederwarenfabriek

Manufacturer/importer of handbags and travel goods
Address : Jarmuiden 56 A, 1046 AE Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 4110411
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 4110622
Luijckx lederwarenfabriek V.O.F.

Manufacturer/importer of western style belts and motorcycle bags
Address : Wilhelminastraat 15, 5104 GA Dongen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 162 312428
Fax : + 31 (0) 162 314469
Marion Handelsondernemimng B.V.

Importer of document cases, sports bags, small leather goods and premiums
Address : Turfschip 191, 1186 XH Amstelveen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 6438423
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 6438423
Mars Agenturen B.V.

Agent for handbags, small leather goods and premiums
Address : Scriveriusmate 35, 8000 AB Zwolle, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 38 4653618
Fax : + 31 (0) 38 4652011
Meander B.V.
Address : Industrieweg 7, 2254 AE Voorschoten, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 71 5617642
Fax : + 31 (0) 71 5619741
108
Mercura
Importer of belts and attaché cases
Address : Alkemadelaan 5, 2371 EX Roelofsarendsveen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 71 3317250
Fax : + 31 (0) 71 3317252
Van der Miessen lederwaren agenturen

Agent for handbags, travel goods, attaché cases, shopping bags and small leather goods
Address : Enkweg 10, 6880 AD Velp, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 26 3615251
Fax : + 31 (0) 26 3615030
Modana International B.V.

Importer of gloves
Address : Diamantlaan 10, 2130 AM Hoofddorp, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 23 5622244
Fax : + 31 (0) 23 5621182
M.P. International B.V.

Importer of handbags, attaché cases, shopping bags and sports bags
Address : P.O. Box 90, 1430 AB Aalsmeer, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 6570001
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 6570100
My Lady Trading B.V.

Manufacturer and importer of handbags, portfolios and attaché cases
Address : Haansbergseweg 14, 5121 LJ Rijen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 161 226308
Fax : + 31 (0) 161 222170
Natural leathergoods store/NLS Bijoux

Importer of travel goods, shopping bags and small leather goods
Address : Houtse Parallelweg 10, 5700 AN Helmond, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 492 535209
Fax : + 31 (0) 492 553442
Overdiek & Produkten B.V.

Importer of rucksacks, shopping bags, small leather goods and premiums
Address : Weverstraat 9, 5111 PV Baarle-Nassau, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 13 5076266
Fax : + 31 (0) 13 5078944
109
Pacor lederwaren B.V.
Agent for attaché cases, document cases and small leather goods
Address : Marchandweg 19, 3771 ML Barneveld, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 342 404500
Fax : + 31 (0) 342 404501
Pare B.V.
Importer of handbags, travel goods, school satchels, rucksacks and small leather goods
Address : P.O. Box 33, 9480 AA Vries, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 592 542825
Fax : + 31 (0) 592 542805
Peakaboo!
Address : Konijnenburgweg 75, 4600 AA Bergen op Zoom, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 164 252877
Fax : + 31 (0) 164 235447
Pierro Erbacci B.V.

Importer of handbags, travel goods, rucksacks and small leather goods
Address : Birkstraat 101-A, 3768 HD Soest, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 35 6013030
Fax : + 31 (0) 35 6023078
Frans J. Plevier
Importer of handbags and portfolio's
Address : Lammergors 15, 4761 VH Zevenbergen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 168 355221
Fax : + 31 (0) 168 325810
Present Time B.V.

Address : Antennestraat 44, 1322 AE Almere, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 36 5358888
Fax : + 31 (0) 36 5358800
Prime Marketing B.V.

Agent for handbags, suitcases, travel goods, attaché cases, shopping bags and small
leather goods
Address : P.O. Box 69064, 1060 CB Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 6171247
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 6171247
110
QuintinQuality / Double QQ V.O.F.
Importer of handbags, suitcases, travel goods, attaché cases and small leather goods
Address : D.S.V. Schuppenstraat 29-31, 3905 AE Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 318 515335
Fax : + 31 (0) 318 551002
Raayos B.V.
Address : Bouwlingstraat 64, 4902 AK Oosterhout, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 162 453276
Fax : + 31 (0) 162 436492
Revalon
Address : Boschstraat 50, 4811 GJ Breda, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 76 5213384
Fax : + 31 (0) 76 5145881
RIMO
Importer of rucksacks and premiums
Address : Zandvoortselaan 18, 2042 XA Zandvoort, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 23 5718596
Fax : + 31 (0) 23 5730057
Rodelle S.A.
Agent for suitcases, travel goods, sports bags, shopping bags and beauty cases
Address : Alb. Verweylaan 46, 1422 TS Uithoorn, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 297 531065
Fax : + 31 (0) 297 531065
Ronia B.V.
Importer of attaché cases, computer cases and document cases
Address : P.O. Box 1068, 1300 BB Almere, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 36 5492266
Fax : + 31 (0) 36 5323724
De Rooy lederwaren B.V.

Importer of handbags, suitcases, travel goods, attaché cases, shopping bags and small
leather goods
Address : Elzenweg 29, 5140 AK Waalwijk, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 416 332798
Fax : + 31 (0) 416 340188
111
Van Rooijen/Rubo
Agent for handbags, suitcases, travel goods, rucksacks, sports bags and small leather goods
Address : Langbroekerdijk A 139, 3947 BG Langbroek, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 343 561298
Fax : + 31 (0) 343 561298
Roveco Lederwaren B.V.

Agent and importer for all kinds of leather goods
Address : IJsselmeerlaan 4, 1382 Weesp, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 294 415277
Fax : + 31 (0) 294 419958
Van Rijn's lederwaren V.O.F.

Agent for handbags and small leather goods
Address : Acaciadreef 54, 3137 BB Vlaardingen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 10 4750557
Fax : + 31 (0) 10 4750557
Sarlini Modeaccessoires B.V.

Importer of handbags, gloves and belts
Address : Archangelkade 31, 1001 LE Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 5860000
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 5860001
Schellekens B.V.
Importer of suitcases, travel goods, attaché cases, computer cases, shopping bags and
small leather goods
Address : Heuvelstraat 18, 5101 TC Dongen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 162 312766
Fax : + 31 (0) 162 321661
Silly Gifts
Address : Herfordstraat 18, 7418 EX Deventer, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 570 628388
Fax : + 31 (0) 570 634620
Special Products Holland

Address : Paul Krugerstraat 76-82, 4380 AM Vlissingen, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 118 418008
Fax : + 31 (0) 118 410322
112
Timmermans-Lammers B.V.
Importer of document cases and small leather goods
Address : Klapbrugweg 4, 1300 BA Almere, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 36 5491030
Fax : + 31 (0) 36 5323900
Toenga B.V.
Agent for handbags, gloves and belts
Address : Buitenlanden 16, 3274 ZG Heinenoord, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 186 604382
Fax : + 31 (0) 186 604382
Treffina Eindhoven
Importer of travel goods, shopping bags and small leather goods
Address : P.O. Box 7013, 5605 JA Eindhoven, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 40 2523535
Fax : + 31 (0) 40 2524535
Trend Design B.V.

Agent/importer of travel goods, rucksacks and premiums
Address : Hagemuntweg 10, 4879 NM Etten-Leur, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 76 5041490
Fax : + 31 (0) 76 5041491
Trend Holland character merchandising B.V.

Address : Vening-Meinzeszstraat 9, 6710 BG Ede, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 318 635381
Fax : + 31 (0) 318 621011
Vadobag - van Dongen van Alphen B.V.

Importer of handbags, travel goods, rucksacks, sports bags, shopping bags and small
leather goods
Address : Zetkinweg 5, 5004 BA Tilburg, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 13 5942323
Fax : + 31 (0) 13 5942340
Vilenca lederwaren
Importer of handbags, document cases and small leather goods
Address : Theresiahof 30, 1216 MK Hilversum, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 35 6246104
Fax : + 31 (0) 35 6234144
113
Vissers items
Importer of trendy handbags and rucksacks
Address : Tollenstraat 60, 1053 RW Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 6166501
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 6166512
De Vries lederwaren
Importer of handbags, travel goods, shopping bags and small leather goods
Address : Lindenlaan 26, 2651 TK Berkel en Rodenrijs , The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 10 5115998
Fax : + 31 (0) 10 5112657
Vroom & Dreesmann Nederland B.V.

Department store
Address : P.O. Box 276, 1000 AG Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 20 5959111
Fax : + 31 (0) 20 6926150
Wehkamp B.V.
Mail-order house
Address : P.O. Box 400, 8000 AK Zwolle, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 38 4216868
Fax : + 31 (0) 38 4973495
Willemen lederwarenfabriek B.V.

Manufacturer of suitcases, attaché cases and document cases
Address : Kroonstraat 9, 4870 AD Etten-Leur, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 76 5020818
Fax : + 31 (0) 76 5014907
De Winter lederwaren import

Importer of handbags, attaché cases and document cases
Address : Herman Heyermansstraat 39, 3451 AL Vleuten, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 30 6772490
Fax : + 31 (0) 30 6775473
Zurel Uurwerken B.V.

Importer of belts and small leather goods
Address : P.O. Box 1175, 1430 BD Aalsmeer, The Netherlands
Telephone : + 31 (0) 297 323255
Fax : + 31 (0) 297 340565
114
APPENDIX 11 USEFUL LINKS
Leathernet: www.leathernet.com
This site provides information on the international leather industry, with the emphasis on
finished leather, in the field of market information, technical developments, trade partner
search and international trade fairs. This site assists enterprises and organisations all over
the world in keeping up-to-date with the latest developments and to make new contacts.
Leathermarkets: www.leathermarkets.com
This site provides information in English, French, Chinese and Arabic on the international
leather industry and on international trade fairs. It assists enterprises and organisations all
over the world in keeping up-to-date with the latest developments and to make new
contacts.
Leather fairs: www.leatherfairs.com

This site provides information on the international trade fairs on finished leather and
related products, such as leather goods. It assists enterprises and organisations all over the
world in viewing the latest schedule of the trade fairs in the world.
Euro banknotes and coins: www.ecb.int/

This site is maintained by the European Central Bank and provides detailed information in
a downloadable brochure in 11 languages, on the euro banknotes and coins. It assists
enterprises all over the world in becoming familiar with the colours, formats and sizes of
the euro in order to develop new wallets, purses or billfolds. This site also gives the latest
exchange rate of the euro.
115
116
Mailing address: P.O. Box 30009 3001 DA Rotterdam The Netherlands
Phone: +31 10 201 34 34 Fax: +31 10 411 40 81
E-mail: cbi@cbi.nl Internet: http://www.cbi.nl
Office and showroom: WTC-Beursbuilding, 5th floor
37 Beursplein Rotterdam The Netherlands

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A SURVEY OF THE NETHERLANDS

Compiled for CBI by:

Update of CBI market survey “Leather goods” (November 1996)

3 THE NETHERLANDS MARKET 13

4 THE EUROPEAN UNION MARKET 36

Product groups Products

Handbags È Handbags with and without shoulder strap.

Exchange rates of EU currencies in US$

Country Currency 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 June 1999

European Union ECU 1.18 1.29 1.25 1.13 1.12 –

Source: CBS Statline (July 1999)

2.1 Product groups

Product groups Products Leather*

Handbags È Handbags with and without shoulder strap. 27%

* Made of leather or imitation leather as per cent of EU import volume in 1997.

2.2 Customs/statistical product classification

Table 2.1 HS code classification of leather goods

HS Codes Product group

4203 21 00 Gloves, special sports gloves of leather or imitation

3.1.1 Market size

Figure 3.1 Market for leather goods in The Netherlands 1991-1997,

1991 1995 1997

Source: EIM (1998)

3.1.2 Market segmentation

Ladies handbags Ladies handbags

Travel goods Travel goods

Source: EIM (1998)

Small leather goods

5 euro = 120 x 62 mm 100 euro = 147 x 82 mm

● Briefcases (attaché cases, document cases, portfolios)

● Travel goods (suitcases, travel bags, body-bags, rucksacks)

Group Main characteristics

Children/Teenagers È They mainly buy school, sports bags and rucksacks.

3.1.3 Consumption patterns and trends

Leather goods Characteristics for fashionable leather goods

Highly individualistic fashion

Hardly influenced by fashion:

Product groups Period of peak sales

Handbags May, November, December

Nowadays, production is often contracted out to Asian and, to a larger extent,

1995 1996 1997

Total 34,068 268,272 38,301 321,907 38,350 329,944

Handbags 6,509 55,025 6,401 59,574 3,118 37,080

Source: Eurostat (1999)

Source: Eurostat (1999)

3.3.2 Imports by product

Womens’ handbags Volume per cent Value per cent

Leather or imitation 865 28% 15,533 42%

● Small leather goods

Small leather goods Volume per cent Value per cent

Leather or imitation 592 30% 19,420 51%

Hong Kong 37%

Hong Kong 43%

Hong Kong 48%