21. 03. 2021.

Whaler Repair Instructions

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INSTRUCTIONS -- HULL PATCH KITS

(Note: These instructions are a reproduction of Boston Whaler's printed instructions, Dwg. #15000201, Rev. "E,"
pages 1-4, print date 4/94. They were originally included with their Hull Patch Kits.)

These instructions first give important information on the preparation, mixing and catalyzing
of the gelcoat supplied (colored polyester resin) and then information on the use of the gelcoat
and other materials for repairs of increasing magnitude (scratches, punctures, and structural
repairs both small and large).

1. Preparation, mixing and catalyzing the gelcoat

a. First, to ensure complete hardening of the gelcoat, remove cover and immerse the
can to within 1/4" of the top in water as hot as your hand can stand (120° - 140°F) for
approximately five minutes while stirring thoroughly. This guarantees that a wax
added to prevent "tacky" surfaced patches is in solution.

b. Allow gelcoat to cool down to room temperature before proceeding.

c. Catalyze gelcoat only after preparing the area to be repaired and just prior to
performing the repair to ensure sufficient working time.

Do not work at temperatures below 60°F!

Mix in catalyst at the rate of 1/2 graduation (2 1/2 cubic centimeters) on the plastic
bottle per 1/2 8 oz. cup of gelcoat or 1 graduation (5 cubic centimeters) per full 8 oz.
cup of gelcoat. If the catalyst is in an ungraduated plastic tube use the ratio of 1
teaspoon per full 8 oz. cup. On an average cool day this will harden in the cup in 20-
30 minutes. A thin layer on cool work will take longer. At higher temperatures
hardening in the cup will be faster therefore catalyst may be reduced to no less than
half the amount specified above.

2. Scratches

Most small scratches not through the gelcoat can be removed by wet sanding with #600
paper and rubbed down with auto body compound.

If scratches require filling:

a. Rough area with sandpaper.

b. Clean area with lacquer thinner.

c. Measure out required amount of gelcoat.

d. Mix in the required amount of catalyst per step 1-c.

e. Paint on gelcoat over the entire sanded area. Allow to harden.

f. Wet sand to desired finish, using progressively finer grades of sandpaper. To

duplicate original finish, wind up with auto buffing compound.

NOTE: If you sand through the gelcoat in steps 2-f, scuff the area with #100 paper
and repeat step 2.5.

3. Punctures

All areas to be repaired must be clean and dry before proceeding. Areas that have salt water
in them should be first flushed with fresh water to remove salt and then allowed to dry.

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Small punctures or holes up to 3/8" in diameter may be simply filled with chopped fibers
and resin (or resin alone if it doesn't run out).

Larger punctures or holes up to the size of a dime should be repaired as in the structural
repair instructions, but the tapering of the main skin as in step 4-d of Structural Repairs
need only be 1/2" away all the around the hole.

4. Structural Repairs (Holes larger than a dime)

Neglected punctures or repairs that fail on the boat bottom can "scoop" water with enough
pressure to burst the fiberglass skin away from the foam!

The object of this repair method is to grip both sides of the original skin with the repair to
make a strong joint unlikely to pull apart.

a. If necessary, clean and dry areas to be repaired as in Punctures.

b. Cut away all cracked & broken fiberglass with a fine toothed hack saw blade. Snap
off or grind away the end so it will slip into the foam easier.

c. Fashion a hook from an old file or a piece of heavy steel wire,

and clean the foam from under the skin about 1".

d. Taper the skin with a disc grinder to a knife edge at the hole starting about 2" away
all around the hole.

e. Catalyze the gelcoat supplied if a small repair, or regular general purpose resin if a
large repair, for about a 1/2 hour gel time (see step 1-c for gelcoat) and then mix in
the chopped fibers from the patch kit to a stiff mash.

f. Stuff this mash into the hole with a stick and tamp well in under the skin. Spread out
over the foam and build up the level to the underside of the skin. Before mash is
hard, cover repair and tapered original skin with no less than two layers of 2 oz. mat
as shown. Note: on dime size or smaller holes skip the mat and simply build up the
level of the mash slightly higher than and overlapping the taper of the original skin.
Allow to cure.

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21. 03. 2021. Whaler Repair Instructions

g. Wrap some #50 sandpaper onto a block of wood about 3" wide and 8" long and sand
the repair down to grade in long strokes overlapping onto the original skin a bit. (Just
barely into the outer gelcoat)

h. Measure out enough gelcoat to cover the entire sanded area, catalyze per step 1-c,
and paint over the area. Allow to harden.

i. Wet sand to desired finish, using progressively finer grades of sandpaper. To

duplicate original finish, wind up with auto buffing compound.

NOTE: If you sand through the gelcoat in step 4-i, scuff the area with #100 paper and
repeat step 4-h.

5. Large Structural Repairs (rebuilding of crushed or ripped away sections)

In brief, repairs are accomplished by fitting blocks of foam into the damaged areas, carving
to original shape and covering with an appropriate thickness of fiberglass. Finally the
fiberglass is ground and sanded smooth and sprayed with colored resin for finish.

a. Use only polyurethane foam since it is not affected by the resin used in "laying-up"
the fiberglass for the covering "skin" (Styrofoam will dissolve in contact with resin).
Polyurethane foam is obtainable in ready made blocks or in a two-part liquid which
when mixed in the recommended proportions and poured into a cardboard box of the
required size will yield a good carving foam in a short time. Two pound per cubic
foot density foam is recommended in either case. (Isocyanate Product's Isofoam PW-
2 or PPG's 6403/6564 are two good foams available in small quantities).

b. If several blocks must be used, fasten them together with toothpicks, pencils, or even
splinters of wood forced into each foam block. Do not glue-up blocks of foam to the
required size. The glue line (since it is harder) does not sand down as easily as the
foam thereby leaving a high spot or ridge. It becomes very difficult to obtain a
smooth looking surface. It is not necessary to achieve a complete absence of voids.
The main purpose is to have a surface on which to lay new glass.

c. After carving and sanding foam to shape (foam should be lower than the surrounding
fiberglass skin by the thickness of the skin) undercut and taper the surrounding skin
as in steps 4-c and 4-d of Structural Repairs. Stuff mash, prepared as in step 4-e, all
around the repair under the existing skin as shown below:

d. Before mash is hard, cover repair and tapered original skin with no less than two
layers of 2 oz. fiberglass mat on large "panel" areas and no less than four layers on
areas of severe wear.

e. Finally grind and sand the fiberglass to a smooth surface flush with the original skin
and paint as in steps 4-h and 4-i of Structural Repairs.

Please use this message thread to post follow-up questions or comments.

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21. 03. 2021. Whaler Repair Instructions

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DISCLAIMER: This information is believed to be accurate but there is no guarantee. We do our best!

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