Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Km 3 Hairstylist
Km 3 Hairstylist
Hairstyling
514101-000-01
-KM-05
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The learning contract time, which is the time that reflects the
required duration of enrolment for this module, is at least 25
days.
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Table of Contents
KT0109 Pin-curls 5
KT0110 Creative styling (dry trendy and wet trendy) 6
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KT0101 DREADLOCKS
Materials and preparation to divide your hair into sections
Dreadlocks, also known as locs, are a hairstyle that consists of rope-like strands that are achieved by braiding
or interlocking the hair. Some dreadlocks styles are created by simply allowing textured, uncombed hair to
bunch and naturally knot together to develop into locked shapes over the years — others are created by
braiding and twisting hair together.
Locs are worn for religious, cultural, and spiritual reasons, and have become a popular aesthetic in modern
fashion, music, and beauty. The products and techniques that are used to form dreadlocks have also evolved
over time. In this guide, learn about the different types and styles, how to create them, and helpful
maintenance tips to ensuredreadlocks look their best.
There are many different types of dreadlock hairstyles for men and women, including crinkle, twisted, rasta,
and high-top locs. Some people will also opt for faux locs, in which extensions are installed and then
transformed into a temporary look. You can also dye your dreadlocks to add a pop of color or tie them up
into buns.
Crinkle dreadlocks
Crinkle dreadlocks are achieved by braiding wet hair and holding it in place with rubber bands. Once the
braids are dry, you simply remove them to reveal a wavy texture. This style is also a great beginner
dreadlock style for women and men, and is ideal if you want your hair to have a curly look. If you want even
curlier crinkle dreads, curl your hair up with pipe cleaners while it dries.
Rasta dreadlocks
Rasta dreadlocks are a traditional, freeform style of locs and are achieved without any unnatural
interference, meaning they’re formed organically without help from pre-braiding or other manipulation —
just like Bob Marley formed his. Since this style is formed naturally, it takes longer to achieve locs compared
to other styles, but is very low maintenance.
Twisted dreadlocks
Twisted dreadlocks are ideal if you have long hair that’s thin. This look is achieved by taking two individual
loc strands and twisting them into a new, combined loc. Doing this will help make your loc hairstyle appear
thicker. Make sure your locs are as hydrated as possible to avoid damage when twisting the hair.
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High-top dreadlocks
High-top dreadlocks are a more modern way of styling your locs. This is when your locs are piled or sit on top
of your head, while the sides (both or one side) are very short. The dreads that are sitting at the crown of
your head can be grown out to any desired length. For added movement and structure, grow out your high-
top dreads a bit longer and sweep them forward.
Microlocs
Microlocs are like dreadlocks but are smaller in size. If you don’t want the bulk and heaviness of traditional
loc styles, then microlocs are for you. They’re achieved the same way as regular locs but are twisted using
smaller sections. This size is ideal for those who want to get more creative with their styling. These are
different than Sisterlocks, which are also small in size. Microlocs need to be retwisted every four to seven
weeks to help maintain the consistency and small size of the strand.
Bohemian dreadlocks
Bohemian dreadlocks are a look that’s achieved by mixing different styles of locs into one. For example, you
could have both braided locs and naturally formed locs in your hair. This gives you a more dynamic and
distressed look. Bohemian dreadlocks are meant to appear worn-in, but if you want to avoid additional frizz,
you can sleep with a silk headscarf at night.
Tools
Sectioning clips
Residue-free shampoo
Fine-tooth comb
Loc wax
Blow-dryer
Rubber bands to keep sections in place
There are different ways you can go about creating your own locs, but generally, the process consists of:
Palm rolling is a method of forming intertwined twists in your hair by rolling the strands in your palms in a
circular motion. Loc wax is a product that helps keep the strands in place.
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Adopting this hairstyle may seem overwhelming at first, but there are several tips and tricks that can speed
up the locking process. Learn how to get dreadlocks with these four different methods:
Freeform method
No steps required here! The freeform method is an all-natural approach to creating dreadlocks. Your hair
will naturally create locs if left untreated, unwashed, and uncombed for long enough. This method takes the
longest to develop — oftentimes it will take years for them to take shape.
Backcombing method
The backcombing method is a more organic process in which you take sections of hair and tease it back with
a comb toward the roots. This method is generally not as popular as the others because the knots you create
at your roots will migrate downward over time, leading to loose, undressed hair or the complete unraveling
of the loc. However, this method does work better on some hair types than others because it creates texture
in generally untextured hair. You can use rubber bands to help keep the strands of the loc in place.
The twist and rip method allows you to have more control over how big your locs are and how many you
create, unlike the neglect and backcombing method. With this method, you first take your desired section of
hair, twist the hair (the direction in which you twist doesn’t matter), then section the twist into two parts
and “rip” or pull them apart toward the root. Keep twisting down and repeat — this process will form knots,
which will help keep the sections in place while the loc forms around it over time.
You can also create a base for locs to form with the braiding method. To create these kinds of locs, you will
need to form braids out of the desired sections of hair. Over time, if left in, dreadlocks will form over the
braids. It’s important to note that the braided pattern can take up to a year to fully disappear and for the
locs to appear more flat than cylindrical.
If the braid comes apart at the ends, you can apply loc wax and palm roll to help interlock the stray hairs.
Stages of dreadlocks
Dreadlocks are a slow-forming hairstyle that changes over the course of four different stages: starter,
budding, teen, and mature. Explore the different stages below:
This is the very beginning of the loc journey — when your locs are first created, there will be no noticeable
tangles, knots, or matting. This will begin to develop in the later stages over the next couple of months. After
a few months, your locs will begin to set in place and start to tangle and knot internally. After about six
months, your locs will begin to enter the next stage: the “budding” stage.
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During this stage, buds and knots begin to form, along with layers wrapping around other strands. This
layering and twisting of hair produces a cocoon-type structure that will continue to expand. The new growth
creates a fuzzy and fluffier texture that will mat or stick together at the top. It’s crucial to stay on top of
cleansing and moisturizing in this stage to avoid weak spots, bumps, and buildup.
Teen locs, or middle locs, are when the locs finally begin to take shape and are now much plumper. The hairs
will most likely be pointing in different directions and may be hard to control. To help with this, look for
accessories such as head wraps, scarves, and headbands. These accessories will not only help you settle the
frizz but will add some extra spice to your look as you wait for your locs to grow out more.
Finally, your locs have taken full shape. They’ve formed internal and external matting and the frizz is gone.
Additionally, the dreadlocks will be firm and long enough to be able to lie flat. Depending on the texture of
your hair, this stage can begin as early as one year; straighter hairs tend to take longer. You’re now able to
get comfortable with a regular shampooing and conditioning routine — with residue-free products, of
course.
Dreadlock maintenance
Dreadlocks take a lot of patience — finally reaching the stage of fully formed locs is an achievement, so you’ll
want to do all you can to take care of them. Follow these dreadlock maintenance tips so your new hairdo
can look and feel its best:
When you first start forming your locs, avoid any kind of shampooing within the first week or two. Holding
off on washing will give your hair extra time to come together and intertwine, which is essential in the
locking process
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Use natural hair products as much as possible to maintain your dreadlocks. Residue-free shampoo is
especially important because it will help prevent excessive buildup that regular shampoos will leave behind.
Having too much residue within your locs can prevent them from drying out properly, which can create a
breeding ground for mildew — this is also known as rot. If rotting happens, you’ll need to cut off your
dreadlocks.
Dry hair is prone to breakage, so it’s important to make sure your locs are well moisturized. Consider using a
moisturizing spray and hair oil to not only keep your hair healthy and moisturized, but your scalp as well.
Palm rolling and loc wax are your dreadlocks’ best friends. As we mentioned earlier, palm rolling is a
maintenance method in which you use the palms of your hands to roll and twist the strands of hair into
tighter locs. Practicing this method regularly will help your locss compress and mat more quickly.
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KT0102 BRAIDING
Braiding and Braid Extensions
Hairstylists should study and have a thorough understanding of braiding and braid extensions because these
services are very popular with clients, it allows stylists to express their artistic ability, stylists should be
prepared to work with every type of hair and hairstyle trends within every culture, and working with braid
extensions gives a foundation for hair extensions which is a high-ticket service.
Historically, African tribes were the first to use decorative braids. Egyptian woman wore braids decorated
with shells, sequins, and glass or gold beads. Women from India wore long, heavy braids as did Native
Americans.
Natural Hairstyling- hairstyling that does not alter the natural curl or coil pattern of the hair; does not use
chemicals or dyes
Braided hairstyles can take hours to complete. To avoid any misunderstandings and ensure a happy ending
to the service, it is essential to complete a thorough and detailed client consultation.
Before exploring various braiding techniques, it is important to have a good grasp of braiding basics.
Texture- pay particular attention to the texture during the analyzation of the client’s hair and scalp
Diameter of the hair- is it coarse, medium or fine?
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Feel- does the hair feel oily, dry, hard, soft, smooth, coarse, or wiry?
Wave pattern or coil configuration- is the hair straight, wavy, coiled, or curly? A coil is a very
tight curl; it is spiral when lengthened or stretched; textured hair refers to hair with a tight
coil pattern
Density- look for areas where the hair is thin
Condition- check for damage and breakage from previous braids or chemical services
Length- make sure the hair is physically long enough to execute the braiding style
Scalp health- ensure that the scalp is healthy and properly cared for
Boar bristle brush (natural hairbrush)- best for stimulating scalp as well as removing dirt and lint
Square paddle brush- good for releasing tangles, knots, and snarls in short, textured hair and long,
straight hair; cushion of air (pneumatic) in the brush paddle makes the bristles collapse when they
encounter too much resistance; helps prevent breakage in fragile hair
Vent brush- single or double row of widely spaced pins with protective tips to prevent tearing or
breaking of hair; used to gently remove tangles on wet wavy or dry curly hair; always check tips-if
even one tip is missing, discard the brush
Wide-Tooth comb- glide through the hair with little snarling; variety of shapes and designs; have
long rounded tips to avoid scratching the scalp; larger spacing of teeth allows textured hair to move
between the rows with ease
Double-tooth comb (detangling comb)- separates the hair as it combs; excellent for detangling wet
curly hair
Tail comb- excellent for design parting, sectioning large segments of hair, and opening and removing
braids
Finishing comb- usually 8-10 inches long; used while cutting; work well on fine or straight hair
Cutting comb- used for cutting small sections; should be used only after the hair is softened and
elongated with a blowdryer
Pick with rounded teeth- useful for lifting and separating textured hair; has long widely spaced teeth
and is commonly made of metal, plastic, or wood.
Blowdryer with pick nozzle- a pick nozzle loosens the curl pattern in textured hair for braiding styles;
it dries, stretches, and softens textured hair; use a hard-plastic pick attachment because metal
becomes too hot
Diffuser- dries hair without disturbing the finished look and without dehydrating the hair
Five-inch scissors- used for creating shapes and finished looks, trimming bangs, and excess extension
material
Long clips- used for separating hair into large sections
Butterfly and small clips- used to separate hair into large and small sections
Hood dryer- remove excess moisture before blowdrying hair
Small rubber bands or strings- use to secure ends
Extension fibers- come in a variety of types: Kanekalon, nylon, rayon, human hair, yarn, lin, and yak
Hackle- a board of fine, upright nails through which human hair extensions are combed; used for
detangling or blending highlights and colors
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Drawing board- flat leather pads with very close fine teeth that sandwich human hair extensions;
weighed down with books allowing a specific amount of hair to be extracted without loosening and
disturbing the rest of the hair during braiding
A wide variety of materials are available for hair extensions. It is important to remember that the cheapest
product may not be the best. When buying a new product, buy a small amount and test it on a mannequin
before using on a client.
Human hair- gold standard; can be confusing and deceptive; most human hair is imported from Asia
and has little information about how it was processed or if it is 100% human hair; only deal with
suppliers you trust
Kanekalon- manufactured, synthetic fiber of excellent quality; made in a variety of types with
different names, colors, and textures; very durable
Nylon or rayon synthetic- less expensive than other synthetics; available in varying qualities; reflects
light and leaves hair very shiny; a drawback is that it has been known to break or cut the surrounding
hair; less durable (can melt in high heat)
Yarn- made of cotton or nylon blend; inexpensive; light, soft, detangles easily; does not reflect light;
matte finish in braids; be careful of color- black in store may appear blue or green in natural light
Lin- wool fiber imported from Africa; matte finish; only comes in black or brown; comes on a roll and
can be used in any length and size; very flammable
Yak- strong fiber from the domestic ox; may be used alone or blended with human hair
Curly hair- best to braid when dry; wet hair shrinks and cause too much tension on the scalp; if you
must braid curly hair wet, be sure to allow for shrinkage to avoid damage to the scalp and hair
Straight, resistant hair- best braided slightly damp or very lightly coated with wax or pomade to
make it more pliable
Textured hair- very fragile both wet and dry; blowdry hair for the braiding service which softens the
hair, elongates the wave pattern, and makes it more manageable
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Braiding styles can be broadly classified as visible and invisible. Most any braided style can be used on a
client with an oval face.
Visible braid- a three- strand braid created with an underhand technique; created with an
underhand technique (also known as plaiting); the left section goes under the middle strand and
then the right section goes under the middle strand; often used for cornrowing because it is believed
to cause less tangling
Invisible braid (also known as inverted braid or French braid)- three strand braid created with the
overhand technique; the first side section goes over the middle one and then the other side section
goes over the middle one
Rope braid- created with two strands that are twisted around each other; can be done on hair that
is all one length or on long, layered hair
Fishtail braid- simple, two strand braid in which hair is picked up from the sides and added to the
strands as they are crossed over each other; best done on non-layered hair that is at least shoulder
length
Single braids (also known as box braids and individual braids)- free-hanging braids, with or without
extensions, that can be executed using either an underhand or overhand technique; may be used
with all hair textures and in a variety of ways
partings can be square, triangular, or rectangular
parting determines where the braid is placed and how it moves
single braids can move in any direction
the procedure for medium to large braids uses the underhand technique
Cornrows (also known as canerows)- narrow rows of visible braids that lie close to the scalp and are
created with a three-strand, on-the-scalp braiding technique
Consistent, even partings are the foundation of beautiful cornrows
Can be braided on hair of various lengths and textures
Long, straight hair- large cornrows are fashionable
Designer cornrows are increasingly popular
Flat, contoured styles can last several weeks when done without extensions and up to two
months when applied with extensions
Feed-in Method- braid is built up strand by strand; uses less tension so it prevents breakage;
looks more natural
Tree braids- newer way to add hair for a longer, finished look; client’s hair is braided along with an
extension; the finished look shows more faux hair
Locks (also known as dreadlocks)- separate networks of curly, textured hair that have been
intertwined and meshed together; locking is done without the use of chemicals; hair locks in several
slow phases which can take from six months to a year depending on hair density, length, and coil
pattern
Twisting- overlapping two strands to form a candy cane effect
Weaving- interweaving a weft or faux hair with natural hair
KT0103 EXTENSIONS
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Hairstylists should study and understand wigs and hair extensions because the market has expanded and is
very lucrative, understanding the fundamentals means you can work with any manufacture, and these skills
can open many doors for employment. Hair extensions are hair additions secured to the base of the client’s
natural hair in order to add length volume, texture, or color.
May be made from human hair, synthetic hair, or a blend of the two
They are either wefts of hair or strands (small bundles)
Guidelines:
o Decide whether you are adding length, thickness, or both
o Know the final style you are trying to achieve; make a sketch
o Stay 1 inch away from the hairline at the front, sides, and nape as well as onne inch from the
part
o Be sure the base does not show through very thin hair
o When working with curly hair, you must decide if you are matching the curl pattern or
adding another curl pattern to the hair
o Curly hair appears thicker so you may not need to add as many extensions
Attachment Techniques
Braid-and-Sew Method
Bonding Method
o Method of attaching hair extensions, hair wefts,
or single strands using an adhesive or
bonding agent applied with an applicator gun
o Hair should be at least 4 inches long
o Lasts from 2-4 weeks depending upon
frequency of shampooing, oiliness or
dryness of the scalp, quality of products used
o Maintenance is required as often as every two weeks
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o Process: section the hair at the nape; measure first weft against parting ½ to 1.2 inch from
the hairline; lay weft on flat surface and apply adhesive (use a consistetnt amount); lightly
press the weft against the clean parting; hold for 20 seconds; tug gently to be sure it has
adhered; proceed to next section, working up the head
o Do not work too close to the crown and parting or the weft will show through
o Remove by dissolving the adhesive bond with oil or bond remover
o Two advantages: very affordable; does not take much longer than a regular hair service
Disadvantage: some clients may have an allergic reaction to the adhesive (always perform a
patch test)
o DO NOT USE on clients with severely damaged hair; DO NOT USE wefts longer than 12 inches
as the additional weight may cause damage
Linking Method
o Method of attaching extension where a small amount of hair is picked up off a parting and a
link is slid on close to the scalp with a special tool; the extension is inserted into the link and
the link is pinched flat with pliers.
o Advantages: styling versatility; integrity of natural hair is maintained
o Disadvantages: expensive, time consuming, links can rust
Tube Method Method where the client’s hair and the addition strand are inserted into a tube which
is then heated to shrink it (requires special tools and training
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Synthetic Hair
Advantages
o Strong, durable; top-of-the-line synthetics have a natural, lustrous look and feel
o Great value
o Very easy to maintain at home; shampooing in cold water will not change the style nor will
exposure to humidity
o Most are already cut in the latest styles so only some detailing is required
o Colours are limitless; some contain highlights and lowlights for natural effect
o Will not fade or oxidize even after long exposure to sun
Disadvantages
o Cannot be exposed to extreme heat (curling irons, hot rollers, or high heat or blow dryers
o Colouring synthetic fibers is not recommended
o Sometimes synthetic hair is so shiny that it may not look natural
o The most natural-looking synthetic pieces are the most expensive
European hair is top of the line; virgin (natural) hair is the most expensive
Hair from India and Asia (most of the human hair commercially available) is next most expensive
Indian- usually wavy; lengths from 12 inches to 16 inches
Asian- usually straight; lengths from 12 inches to 28 inches
Human hair mixed with animal hair; often used in theatrical settings
Human hair mixed with synthetic fibers (usually a 50/50 blend)
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Thermal Hairstyling is a term used to describe the use of heated implements for use on the hair.
Hairstyling theory
Hair is composed predominantly of proteins connected by both physical and chemical bonds
Physical and bonds and hydrogen bonds are easily affected by both water and heat.
When heat is applied the hydrogen bonds are weakened, the protein chains shift and a temporary
curl is formed.
When the hair cools; the bonds of the hair reform into the shape of the heated tool that was used.
Do not disturb the hair until it is cool or the curl will become weak.
Do not stretch the hair while it is still warm, the curl pattern will not hold.
Water, shampoo, too much hairspray, rain and humidity will cause the hair to return to its original
shape.
Remember this is a temporary service.
Hairstyling Products
Gel: Applied to the ends and root area to create maximum control of the hair when roller setting, creating
pin curls or for added lift when blow-drying the hair.
Spray Gel: Gel diluted with water to be used on thinner hair. When diluted it does not weigh the hair down
and more volume can be produced.
Mousse: Produced to coat the hair to add lift and body, assists in static in the hair, can contain some
conditioning elements. Mousse can be purchased in colors for decorative purposes and also as a temporary
color rinse.
Styling Lotion: Applied from a spray bottle to damp hair; used prior to setting the hair for maximum control
and controls static.
Non-Aerosol Hairspray: Applied from a spray bottle; used to set the hairstyle after a comb-out or blow-dry.
When used from a pump it is wise
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not to use as much since it can wet the hair since when misting the droplets are larger than an aerosol can.
Aerosol hairspray: Applied from an aerosol can; used to set the hairstyle after a comb-out or blow-dry.
Aerosol hairsprays are not the best for the environment since they are not refillable and hard to dispose of.
The fine mist of aerosol cans, after years of inhalation are harmful to the lungs.
Pomade: A wax or heavy cream base product used for defining key areas in the hairstyle; such as wisps in a
bang area or around the hairline.
Pressing spray or oil: Applied to the hair prior to straightening the hair; used to protect from extreme heat
of flat irons or hair straighteners.
Client consultation
The client consultation is the key to the entire service. During the consultation you will, greet, ask, analyze
and assess the hair. This will allow you to agree, deliver and complete the service with confidence and
success. Greet:
First impressions are lasting ones. Your professional images a big smile and a hand shake and a friendly
greeting will warm your client and make them feel welcome.
Agree: Show them pictures to make sure you are both talking about the same hairstyle. Discuss the cost of
the entire service and the products required to keep the hairstyle looking professional.
Deliver: Protect the client’s clothing, follow all safety rules and focus on delivering the service to the best of
your ability.
Complete: the style and request feedback from your client. Suggest follow- up appointments and products if
necessary.
Blow Dryers
Used for drying the hair into a new hairstyle; also called air-forming.
The nozzle fits on the end of the blow-dryer and is used to aim the air to a certain area. The nozzle prevents
splits ends if you follow the blow-dryer’s direction towards the ends of the hair.
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Blow-dryers are used in adjacent with a brush or comb, depending on the hairstyle that was chosen.
Diffusers spread a gentle air over a large area and not a large spread of wind as with the blow-dryer on its
own. It is also known as scrunching. To be used on curly hair or to create body in the hair allowing it to dry in
it’s natural state. Read the manufacturer’s direction for settings on your blow-dryer before use.
Round brushes create the shape the hair will be in when dry. When choosing the correct brush analyze the
length of the hair and the size of the curl desired.
Vent Brushes will create a straighter look in the hair and are often used to dry the hair prior to hair-
straightening.
Curling irons or thermal irons come in a variety of sizes and are used to add curl to straight hair. The variety
of sizes allows you to decide on the size of curl.
Pressing combs, Hair-straighteners are used to straighten hair that is too curly. Pressing combs are not as
popular today and hair straighteners with stoves are mainly used for very curly black hair
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TOOLS
BLOWDRYER
Flat Iron
Curling Iron
Round Vent
Brushes Brush
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ROLLER BASES
ON BASE
Comb hair forward at a 45 degree
angle this creates high volume and
an on base roller.
OFF BASE
Comb hair down at a 45 degree
angle. This will create a low volume
curl.
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Low Volume
Indentation
Off Base
Hold the hair at 45 degrees down and
hold your brush upwards, this turns
the ends up instead of under.
VENT BRUSH
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Thermal Irons
Thermal irons come in a variety of sizes and shapes, straightening irons or flat irons, crimping irons and
undulating irons.
Contain heating element controlled by a thermostat that maintains a constant temperature during use.
Groove, Shell or
Tongue
Rod Handle
Swivel
Barrel
Shell Handle
Most professional curling irons have a swivel handle that permits the electric cord to turn, without twisting.
Groove/Shell is sometimes called the tongue or clamp used to hold the hair in place while curling.
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HAIRSTRAIGHTENING
To straighten hair with an electric
hairstraightener the iron has to be hot.
Open
Regulate heat settings according
the Hairstraightener, Place theto hair
the
texture of
between thethe
twohair.
heating elements.
Grip
If hair
theisstraightener
fine use a very low
firmly setting. the
squeezing
hair andissliding
If hair coarsedown
use athe hair
high shaft at the
setting.
same time.
The pressure and heat will press the hair like an
iron over clothing.
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INDENTATION
WITH HAIRSTRAIGHTENER
Smooth the cuticle straight from the roots
to the ends.
BEVELLED UNDER
When you get
If client to the
wants end turn
to have theirthe
hair curled
straightener upwards.
under, you can use the hairstraightener.
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