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B.Sc in Leather Engineering (Footwear Technology)

LASTING TECHNOLOGY-Footwear Technology

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Kombolcha Institutes of Technology

(Wollo University)
Kombolcha
Ethiopia
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Contents

• Importance of Planning in lasting department

• Quality checkpoints for full shoe production

• Layout of lasting department

• Calculation of last rotation time and last requirement.
• Adhesive
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IMPORTANCE OF PLANNING IN LASTING

OBJECTIVE OF LASTING AND FINISHING
The objective of the lasting & finishing department is following:
a. To prepared the insole, toe puff, stiffener as per article requirement
b. To prepared all component with accuracy, correct quantity & quality
c. To maintain standard & specification of all lasting & finishing operation
d. To maintain raw material, tools & other resources in condition which is appropriate to maintain the
value of output?

The process of the lasting / finishing can be classified in three parts as following

A) Bottom component
B) Lasting & making
C) Finishing & packing

In the case of bottom component insole, sole, toe puff & stiffener types of material required, properties of
component, costing of component, preparation of component As per daily production plan & article
required size wise.

The lasting & making plan as per the size range, the order quantity & availability of last. Loading and as
per daily production plan supervisor hold loading record. Specification & standard of each operation
should clear to each operator.
For finishing & packing supervisor should have daily packing report article wise, size wise, finishing
process should be as per customer requirement. Effects of finishing add value in the product.
For the definition of quality the show board parameters contains lateral or medial part of the shoe & heat
setting ( temp.) for different type of leather ,sole preparation chart , insole type & uses, finishing process,
chart are available in lasting section
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WORKING PROCESS IN LASTING

a. Availability of material & Tools: Stock of last in different style, size wise record should be with the
production manager/supervisor before production planning. Stock position of sole, insole, toe
puff, stiffener, adhesive, primer, finishing material, packing material, toe band, wiper plate etc.
material planning should be done on weekly basis.
b. Daily loading plan: Daily loading plan according to order and supply given by PPC Department
depends upon availability of last, sole, upper, insole, toe puff, stiffeners etc. in both conveyers.
c. Trail production: If new article comes in production before that 02 pairs trail production should
be done on each size for checking of last, lasting margin, sole fitting.
d. Training of new worker: If more production is required in lasting section
Before involving new manpower, the production training should be given by supervisor/ technical person
according to training manual already given to supervisor in lasting section
e. Time study & Line Balancing: Time study should be taken to each new article according to
performance rating & time study then set the standards time of each operation. Accordingly place
the operators for line balancing set the daily production target for 08 hours more than 90% should
achieved.
f. Report generation: Daily loading & lasting production report should be prepared by the supervisor
and daily quality and daily packing report should be prepared by quality controller according to
the format introduced.
The following are the controlling and follow up activities done in the lasting section 1.
Material budget & control
Daily loading and lasting production report should be prepared by supervisor stock of sole, insole, upper,
etc. available for one week. According to order quantity and article.
Every day article wise quality report should be prepared by quality controller
If rejection rate is more than 2% then stop the production analyzes the problem. After resolving the
problems start the production.
Costing and consumption of Insole, toe puff, stiffener etc. should be control by tracing method which is
being explained to the operator by supervisors.
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2. QUALITY CONTROL
The function of quality control is divided as follows: but for good quality shoe making each operator
should check previous operation before starting his operation. If previous operation is correct then go for
next operation otherwise the operator should return back to previous operator.
Incoming material inspection- All incoming material (cellulose board sheet, shank board, toe puff,
stiffener sheet, sole adhesive, primer etc.) should be physically tested as per specification and sample if
buyer need the testing report then go for various test as per buyer requirement.
Second stage of quality control before the loading check the upper, insole attaching, toe puff attaching,
stiffener attaching (counter molding) size & article of upper and last should be same .
Third stage of quality control before roughing (stuck on shoes) check the lasted upper properly pairs wise
match the vamp and back height as per training given to operator and supervisor if something is wrong
then remove the problem because after roughing nothing can be done on lasted upper as lasting margin
will be tear off .
Final stage of quality control before packing of shoes in final checking, finishing and over all look pair
wise matching checking point as per training of operator /supervisor should be follow.
3. TOOL CONTROL
When the order is planned for the lasting department We should check the type of construction and
requirement of tools that will be needed while production like counter mould as per last, wiper plate and
toe band as per last forepart shape .
Accordingly, to decide last & m/c tool control. mostly factory made in stuck on /cemented construction.
Following criteria should be used for the evaluation.
Delivery date
Length of production
Order Quantity
Technical constraint
Priority of order
4. PROCESS CONTROL:
Following guidelines are followed for the control of the process:
1. All machine of lasting section should be start before 30min from starting the production.
2. Quality guideline are defined & displayed in the lasting section for easy understanding of the article
3. Work Instruction are placed near to each machine for better understanding of each
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Operator to set the machine temperature and pressure according to operation, material, specification.
As per given the training of operator /supervisor of each operation
(Standard temp. and pressure for different operation available in training manual)
4. In heat setting operation setting of temperature for different type of leather is displayed near to heat
setting machine.
5. Sole preparation process, adhesive application & reactivation temp., sole press pressure should be
displayed near to the related m/c.
6. The daily production report is prepared for controlling the production.
7. Final passing and packing should be according to buyer packing specification
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Quality checkpoints for full shoe production

Quality is the totality of features and characteristic of a product or services that affect its ability to satisfy
the stated or implied needs of a customer. Quality is not absolute. It is relative to other goods and services.
Quality changes with time and customers perceptions. Quality cannot be achieved by inspection only. It
can only be improved be small continuous product and process improvements.

The objective of the quality section is following:

To prepare all incoming material quality report
To prepare all quality standard parameters for cutting department
To maintain quality standard & specification of stitching department
To maintain quality standard & specification of lasting & finishing department
To maintain raw material, tools & other resources in condition this is appropriate to maintain the value
of output.
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DAILY QUALITY REPORT IN LASTING

Date Line No. Style Colour

Pairs Checked Prs Passed Prs Rejected

Sr. No. Defect Prs %

1. Wrong back height
2. Toe lasting crooked
3. Back seam tilt
4. Wrinkles at toe
5. Saddle crooked
6. Outside quarter not 2mm lower tha
inside quarter
7. Gap berween eyelets in a derby sho not
one pencil
8. Intacting stitches not in line. Quarter
crooked.
9. Wrinkles in lining
10. Poor sole adhesion
11. Sole off centre
12. Balance not correct (rocking over mm)

13. Nails protruding inside shoe

14. Medallion falling over toe
15. Socks not covering insole correctly

16. Counter not sticking well to upper &

lining
17.
Improper skiving of counter & toepuff

18. Gap in sole

19. Dirty shoes
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20. Counter/toepuff not firm enough

21. Insole twisted
22. Size not marked on shoe
23. Counter/toe puff collapsing
24. Floating counter/toepuff
25. Others

DATE SIGNATURE

Plant layout
A plant layout can be defined as follows:
• Plant layout refers to the arrangement of physical facilities such as machinery, equipment,
furniture etc. within the factory building in such a manner so as to have quickest flow of material
at the lowest cost and with the least amount of handling in processing the product from the receipt
of material to the shipment of the finished product.
• According to Riggs, “the overall objective of plant layout is to design a physical arrangement that
most economically meets the required output – quantity and quality.”
• According to J. L. Zundi, “Plant layout ideally involves allocation of space and arrangement of
equipment in such a manner that overall operating costs are minimized.
An efficient plant layout is one that can be instrumental in achieving the following objectives: a)
Proper and efficient utilization of available floor space
b) To ensure that work proceeds from one point to another point without any delay
c) Provide enough production capacity.
d) Reduce material handling costs
e) Reduce hazards to personnel
f) Utilise labour efficiently
g) Increase employee morale
h) Reduce accidents
i) Provide for volume and product flexibility
j) Provide ease of supervision and control
k) Provide for employee safety and health
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l) Allow ease of maintenance

m) Allow high machine or equipment utilization
n) Improve productivity
• Lasting line layout: machines and equipment's are arranged in one line depending upon the
sequence of operations required for the product.
• The materials move from one workstation to another sequentially without any backtracking or
deviation. In lasting section, machines are grouped in one sequence.
• Materials are fed into the first machine and finished goods travel automatically from machine to
machine, the output of one machine becoming input of the next, e.g. in a paper mill, bamboos are
fed into the machine at one end and paper comes out at the other end.
• The raw material moves very fast from one workstation to other stations with a minimum work in
progress storage and material handling.

CALCULATION OF LAST ROTATION TIME AND LAST REQUIREMENT

Last rotation time is the duration of last rotation that can make one full cycle (rotation).
• CONVEYOR LENGTH:-The width of machine and the distance between the machine.
• Last rotation time= ∑T=TI+T2+T3----- WHEN T is operational time
• EXAMPLE : a factory which can make 800 PRs of shoe per shift and the size assortments of the
given order is 6/1,7/2,8/3,9/2,10/1 and 11/1 then, calculate the Last required and Last rotation
time ?
• Solution
• Shift time=480 mints.
• Assume per one time conveyor full rotation takes 120 mints.

Last rotation time=480/120=4 times

Last required=800/4=200 but always make 20% allowance of last for reserve i.e. 240 lasts. N.B
Size assortments of lasts are directly proportional to the size assortments of the order.
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ADHESIVE
When two surfaces are joined with the help of chemical material is called an adhesive and the process of
thus joining is known as adhesion.
Application of the adhesives on the bottom part is most vital as it stuck the both surfaces to make it as a
complete shoe. The adhesives can be applied by hand brush or by a pressure extruder brush or by a roller
type machine. A thin layer (low viscosity) of adhesive must be applied as a prime coat to facilitate the easy
penetration of adhesive into the fiber structure of upper. Then a second coat is applied. Application of two
coats of adhesive is always advisable. While in case of P.U. & P.V.C. unit soles a thin layer of single coat
only is applied. More adhesive layer in the unit sole may cause depletion of the bondage. Drying of the
adhesives applied on the upper and sole completely is a must because evaporation of solvent from the
joining part is vital for correct attachment. Shoes are kept on open make total evaporation of the solvents.
Heating cabinet’s conveyer with heater or tunnel heater is also used for this purpose.

1.1. Types of Adhesives

1. Natural Rubber / Latex Adhesive

It is a combination of 60% concentrated latex mixed with solution of ammonia in water. And also it is
Milky white, sensitive to pressure, heat, grease, oil, and plasticizer.

It is used for laminating, folding, fitting, outsole channel closing of welted constructions, outsole
attachment to the upper where the sole is stitched to the upper, top line binding, upper to the lining
attachment.
Unsuitable for oil leather and loose fiber leathers could cause shrinkage and wrinkles.

2. Rubber Solution

It is prepared by milling latex together with the compounded rubber and dissolving in solvent like CCl4
or benzene or gasoline. It has the following characteristics It is usually amber colored, giving off a
pungent color.
• It has poor heat resistance & sensitive to oil & grease.
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• It is used for temporary bonding for edge folding, upper to lining attachment and sock lining
attachment to insole.
• Used for laminating, folding, fitting.
• Inflammable and toxic in nature.
• Not easy to remove if spilled and creates stains.
3. Poly-chloroprene Adhesives (Neoprene)

These adhesives are produced by dissolving the base polymers in organic solvents. Neoprene is a polymer
of 2 – Chloro Butadiene as a main constituent. They have low viscosity and good wetting properties. It is
product of Du – Pont.
Pressure sensitive when dry, Poor resistance to plasticizer (PVC), Good Water resistance
Film flexibility, high bond strength, easy handling, application through a brush or spray, resistant to
deterioration caused by chemicals, oils and heat.
Readily crystallizes even at room temperature, possess high polarity, dissolve in a no. of solvents, can
control tack retention time.

Commonly Poly-chloroprene Adhesives Uses for:-

• Permanent Stick ( need not to be stitched), Attachment of upper components & lining components
• Attachment of upper with insole, Side Lasting.
And its Melting Temperature is 70 to 800C

4. Polyurethane Adhesives (PU)

These are produced when a di-isocyanides having two isocyanides groups is reacted with a di-ol having
two hydroxyl groups.
It has the following main characteristics
• High resistance to PVC plasticizer, oil, grease, heat.
• Strong Adhesive bond, highly reactive, good wetting & penetrating properties.
Commonly Polyurethane Adhesives Uses for shoe uppers, shoe soles, adhesives and shoes finishes. And
Its Melting Temperature is 80 to 900C

5. Hot melt Adhesives

These solvent less adhesives are based on thermoplastic materials. A thermoplastic is a polymer that turns
to liquid when heated and freezes to a solid upon cooling. The Bonding process of hot-melt adhesive is
heated and applied in its liquid state with the aid of glue guns or nozzles and the bonding is obtained in
few seconds by cooling.
These are applied in molten state and on cooling form a rigid, strong bond. It can be both reactive and
non-reactive. It does not contain solvent or dispersant.
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Commonly hot melt Adhesives are:

• Used for Permanent / temporary bonding or attachment of lining to uppers, top line folding
formation, lasted upper is stitched to the insole, insole rib or outsole depending on the shoe
construction.
• Used for attachment of uppers to the insole in Toe lasing, side & seat lasting operation.
• Used for sole attachment with lasted uppers. Used in thermo-folding machine
Its Melting Temperature is:-
Polyester Adhesive – 210 to 2300C, Superior wear & physical properties
Polyamide Adhesive - 180 to 2100C, Very good flexibility

2 Properties of Shoe Trade Adhesives

Generally the main characteristics of shoe trade adhesives are:-

• High Cohesive Strength and bond with wide range of shoe materials.
• High resistance to Creep up to 600 C.
• Grease, plasticizers, perspiration, water or other substances to which it might normally be
exposed should not reduce bond strength.
• High resistance to aging.
• High flexibility and high resistance to flex cracking.
• Easily applied by hand or machines.
• Controllable viscosity and good wetting and penetrating properties.
• High enough solid content so that only one coat is needed, even on very porous materials.
• Controllable drying rate to suit work organization.
• Green strength should suit the process.
• Should be non-inflammable and non-toxic to avoid the need for extraction equipment.
• Excess or spilled adhesive should be easily removed from visible parts of the shoe leaving no
marks or stain on upper.
• Should be economical.
• Long shelf & pot life. Not too sensitive to change in temperature Long tack life for maximum
versatility in work organization.
• No shrinkage on drying or the material may wrinkle or bonds may shears.

2.1. Adhesive Selection

The selection of adhesives for the application of the shoe making process is based on the following main
criteria that are:-
a) Strength
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The adhesive must create a bond, sole attaching adhesive must keep the sole well bonded to the upper
during the wear and should have sufficient heat resistance b) Suitability for use with shoe materials:
The adhesive must be compatible with all the materials in the shoe. The neoprene adhesive will not bond
well to leather with high fat content (Oil Leathers) c) Suitability for use in shoe processes:
The adhesive should meet manufacturing requirements. E.g. Tackiness not required for socking and
stiffener adhesives. Quick tack required for folding cement.

d) Shelf and Pot life:

Adhesives should preferably have a long shelf life (Before opening time) & Pot life (After Opening time).

e) General condition:
• Safety - Adhesives should preferably be non-toxic and non-inflammable, vapor harmful to
inhalation, skin protection.
• Adhesives should not shrink or contract on drying
• Adhesives does not cause discoloration or spoil the surface finish of the upper.
• Adhesives should not affect the upper materials.
• Adhesives should be easy to remove if necessary.
• Ease & Rapid Application – Hand Brush, Machines, Rollers, Spray Gun
• Drying Time – Quick or minimum
• Storage – ability to withstand temp. variation condition Resistance to moisture and water.
2.2 The most commonly used adhesives in lasting operation

Sr. Melting
Operation Adhesive Chemicals Remarks
No Temperature
1 Toe Lasting 1. Polyester Hot melt adhesives 210 to 2400C
(white)
180 to 2100C
2. Polyamide Hot melt adhesiv
e 70 to 800C
(yellow)
80 to 900C
3. Neoprene

4. PU

2 Side & Sea 1. Polyamide Hot melt adhesive 180 to 2100C

Lasting (yellow) 70 to 800C
80 to 900C
2. Neoprene

3. PU
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3 Upper Pasting 1. PU + Hardener 80 to 900C

70 to 800C
2. Neoprene + Hardener

4 Sole Pasting 1. PU + Hardener 80 to 900C

70 to 800C
2. Neoprene + Hardener

2.3 Mechanism of Adhesive Bond

There are two main mechanisms by which an adhesive sticks to a materials.

1. Specific Adhesion

2. Mechanical Adhesion

1. Specific Adhesion

• It gives a chemical bond between the adhesives and the surfaces being joined. The adhesive,
therefore, does not have to penetrate the materials but is bonded to the material by chemical
action. Diffusion zone required in between the adhesive and the materials.

• The Chemical Bonding theory of adhesion involves the formation of covalent, ionic or hydrogen
bonds across the interface.

• E.g. Sticking of Thermoplastic rubber (TR) soling. If a PU adhesive is applied to TR without

pretreatment, it can be easily by peeled off. TR requires a chemical pretreatment,
HALOGENATION, to make it compatible with the PU adhesives so that a chemical bond can be
formed.

2. Mechanical adhesion

• It gives physical bond in which the adhesive keys into the fibers or structures of the material to be
bonded. It can be done only with porous materials like leather and fabric by roughing process. The
mechanical theory of adhesion is a “Hook and Eye Theory”. The adhesive flows into the surface
structure of the materials, and when the solvent in the adhesive has evaporated, the adhesive is
keyed into the materials. The joint made cannot be broken without physically breaking either the
adhesive or the surface of the materials.
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• The adhesive is applied and securely anchored to both surface to be bonded. Enough adhesive
must be on each surface so that, when the two surfaces are brought together, the adhesives join to
form a strong bond.

• The effectiveness of the bond will depend on the strength of material, and on the size, depth &
shape of the pores. Deep and undercut pores will lead to the stronger bonds than shallow
identification. Good forms can be formed to fibrous surfaces because adhesive can surround the
fibers.

o Advantage of adhesive bonding

• Rapid, economical joining

• A means of providing new structural or composite unit

• More uniform distribution of stress

• A means for obtaining surface free from holes

• Minimizing potential points of corrosion so evident in mechanical joining

FIG. LINK OF ADHESIVE

• Cohesive strength within A

• Adhesive strength of C to A

• Cohesive strength of C to C
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• Adhesive strength of C to B

• Cohesive strength within B