TECHNICAL ASSESSMENT

Style# J214901110
Sample images
Shell fabric--
Please follow Updated Submaterial sheet Fabric and Trims.
Fabric Composition / Construction : 97% CMIA CTTN 3% SPAN, POPLIN 40X40+40D 133X72 BW128GSM AW135GSM

Piping
Fabric composition----100% cotton
Fabric construction---60x60 104x88
Placement----Neck,Front placket, Front pockets, Sleeve cuff
Fabric color----Ivory for all combo.
MAKE SURE THAT BODY FABRIC AND PIPING CONTRAST FABRIC TO BE CHECKED PHYSICALLY FOR CROSS STAINING BEFORE CUTTING.

Trims --
Thread to be used 60/3 spunpoly, DTM
Piping cord---100% cotton, 2mm Dia
hanger loop---100% cotton
Label--For Top----Care label, laundary label to be placed at inside pocket hem, centre of pocket width.
Label--For Bottom----Care label,DR label, laundary label to be placed at wearer's left at waist band between pocket bag and shell at 4cm away
from pocket bag edge
Point label----JP3, position---11 cm above bottom edge at wearer's left, label exposing to be 1.5cms and motif be be in middle.
Ensure all care instructions is as per approved standards and it is clearly readable.
Price tag----to be inserted at hanger loop thru cotton string/Tag loop, for TOP and NO price tag for Bottom.
Button---Plastic button,15mm Ivory for all colors, Button attaching thread to be DTM to Button.
Need to fix spare button at laundry label for TOP.

Interlining--
N/A

Cutting--
Make sure that 100% panels are quality checked, Pls reject Stain and holes panels and replace with same shade.
make sure that Top layer, Middle layer and Bottom layer panels are checked for shapes along with pattern.

Sewing--
General comment -- Topsticth SPI s/b 12-13.
Ovelock spi s/b 14 with 5 thread overlock.
All construction and machines used should be as per PP sample.
Ensure stitch tension is checked by stretching the stitchline and seam and check to ensure that there is no breakage.
Piping exposing to be 2mm at all over the garment.

TOP
NECK:
Neck line shape to be follow as per Marked in PP sample.
Front Neck V point to be Exactly centred to Button position.
Back neck with 3.5 cm facing with single needle top stitch.
Ensure that neck shapes are simitrical at both left and right.

Shoulder:
Shoulder seam with 5 thread overlock.
Make sure there is no stretch out, shoulder length to be even between left and right.
Shoulder forward to be 1.5 cm even at all over.

Front placket--
Total 5 buttons at front placket, 1st button 1.5cm below from neck V point, including piping, bottom button 11 cm above bottom edge.
1st Button hole to be Horizontal and balance button holes to be Vertical, Ensure no frayings in button holes.
Buttons should have 10x10 passing and need to keep shanking as per PP sample…..Ensure that self knotting in the machine and it is not unravelling.
Front placket width to be 3.5cm including piping, ensure no uneven and roping on placket.
Front placket piping exposing to be 2mm even at all over….ensure that there is no roping in piping.
Front placket top round shape to be follow as per marked PP sample and simitrical at both left and right.
Front horizontal stripes to be matching between left and right.
Ensure that Vertical stripe is straight at front edge and horizontal stripes are straight after placket top stitch, slanting and curving not acceptable.

Front pocket--
Front pocket width and height is given in graded spec, pls follow.
Piping expose to be 2mm even at all over, ensure that there is no roping in piping.
Pocket hem height to be 3cm including piping.
Pocket round shapes to be follw exactly as per PP sample and ensure round is even at both pockets.
Pocket attaching top box stitch width to be 6mm and horizontal bartacks at pocket top edge sides, ensure that bartack width is 6mm.
Ensure that pocket is not bulging below piping, make sure pocket is straight at sides.
Pocket position from HPS to be 22 cm and from Front edge including piping to be 8cm for base size, for balance size apply propotionate grading.
Ensure that vertical and horizontal stripes are matching to body

Sleeve--
Armhole seam should not be wavy.
Ensure that there is no puckering at body or sleeve.
Ensure that sleeve is not twisting.
Sleeve cuff height should be 3.5cm including piping
Sleeve cuff is clean finish at underarm
Ensure that No wavy at under arm, it should be straight.
Sleeves need to be paired between left and right.

Side Seam--
Ensure that Piping joint at underarm to be well matching, mismatching is not acceptable.
Ensure the cross seam at armpit are matching.
Ensure the side seam straight and not wavy….ensure overlock stitch tension is set properly so that side seam is not puckering/dipping down.
Side vent height to be 5.5 cms with 6mm single needle top stitch, 1.2cms horizontal bartack at top of vent.

Bottom hem--
Hem height to be 2.5cm even at all round.
Bottom shape to be follow as per approved sample/pattern.
Ensure that there is no hiking at CF bottom due to placket top stitch.
Ensure that no raw edges visible out at hem edges, need to have clean finish with edge stitch at sides and CF as per approved sample.

BOTTOM:
Waist band:
Waist band ready height to be 3.5 cms even at all round.
Waist band top stitch---8 mm from top edge and 8mm above from bottom finishing ststch
Waist band gathering to be distributed evenly at all over.
2 Button holes at Centre front with 5 cm distance distributed evenly at both side from CF, Should be placed at middle of w/b tunnel stitch height
Self fabric drawcord to be inserted at Waistband and need to do tucking at CB with lock stitch along with drawcord.
Drawcord exposing length to be 27cms even at both left and right.
Drawcord edge to be clean finish as per approved sample.

Front pockets:
Need to have vertical bartacks at both top and bottom opening with 6mm height, need to keep 2.5cm below waist seam for all sizes.
Pocket bag length follow as per graded spec sheet.
Pocket bag finish with clean finish with 7mm top stitch….Pocket bag shape follow as per approved PP sample.

Side Seam/Inseam/Rise
Inseam to be done first and Front and back rise seams to be continuation operation, need to have bartack at crotch point inside.
Side seam with 2mm piping, Ensure that no uneven and roping on piping.
Ensure that Pocket opening is not covering side piping, pocket opening to be exactly to the edge of piping.
Ensure the side seam /Inseam is straight and not wavy….ensure overlock stitch tension is set properly so that side seam is not dipping down.

Bottom hem:
Bottom hem height to be 2.5cm with 1cm margine.
Make sure that hem height is even at all round.

General comments--
Ensure no broken sticthes, skip stitches, open seam, Stains
MAKE SURE THAT NO MAGIC PENS ARE USED.

Pressing comments--
Make sure there is no hard pressing
Seer sucker effect to be maintain as per approved standard.
No pressing shine marks, seam allowance impression.

Packing--
Folding method to be followed as per approved PPT.