G R AS S E R AT E L I E R

GRSR.217
SUNDRESS

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY

01 02 03 04 05

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YOU ARE HOLDING GRASSER
PATTERN, DESIGNED WITH LOVE BY
OUR TEAM EXCLUSIVELY FOR YOU.
WE ARE COMMITTED TO MAKE
SURE THAT THE WORK PROCESS
WITH OUR PATTERNS IS
ENJOYABLE, THE INSTRUCTIONS
ARE EASY TO FOLLOW AND THE
RESULTS ARE SPLENDID!
AND THAT IS WHY, BESIDES THE
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF
EVERY PATTERN, WE HAVE ALSO
INCLUDED ADDITIONAL GUIDES.
01. HOW TO SELECT YOUR SIZE.
With special fitting tips you will find out
how to take accurate
body measurements to select your right
pattern size before the purchase.
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sewing pattern.
03. HOW TO PRINT A PATTERN.
Detailed picture and video manual on how
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patterns to create full size sewing
patterns.
04. SEWING TECHNIQUES.
Helpful sewing articles.
ALSO, IN THE NEAREST FUTURE
WE PLAN TO ADD ARTICLES ABOUT
PATTERN ADJUSTMENTS FOR
ACHIEVING A CUSTOM FIT FOR DIF-
FERENT FIGURE TYPES, AS WELL AS
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CONTENT
PART PAGE

MODEL DESCRIPTION 05

EASES, SEAM ALLOWANCES

AND MAIN MEASUREMENTS
OF THE PATTERN 05

MATERIALS, EQUIPMENT
AND CONSUMPTION 06

GARMENT PIECES, CUTTING OUT 08

FUSING PLAN 09

SEWING ORDER 10

01. Preparation before sewing 10

02. Sewing 12

SEWING TERMS 16

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MODEL DESCRIPTION

A-line sundress with shoulder straps hits above knees.

Front part has bust darts.
Upper edge is finished with facing. There are slits in the side seams.

WE HAVE MADE A FREE TUTORIAL FOR THIS PATTERN.

ADDITIONAL
SEAM ALLOWANCES AND MAIN
GARMENT MEASUREMENTS
WEARING EASE OF A GARMENT, CM

Measuring sector The amount of ease

Bust-line 2,2 сm

Waist-line 32,2 сm

Hips-line 12,5 сm

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GARMENT LENGTH MEASUREMENTS, CM

Size 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54

The distance from 7th cervical vertebra 17,7- 17,9- 18,1- 18,3- 18,5- 18,7- 18,9- 19,1- 19,3-
to the back detail (aproximatelly) 18,2 19,3 19,5 19,7 19,9 20,1 20,3 20,5 20,7

Finished back length along the center 69,6- 69,6- 69,6- 69,6- 69,6- 69,6- 69,6- 69,6- 69,6-
back 72,1 77,2 77,2 77,2 77,2 77,2 77,2 77,2 77,2

FOR PERSONAL TASTE, YOU MAY WANT TO MAKE ALTERATIONS TO ADJUST THE LENGTH
AND VOLUME OF THE PIECES BEFORE CUTTING.

GARMENT SEAM ALLOWANCES, MM

Stitching seam allowances 7-10

Vari-overlock stitch or the serger stitch seam allowances 7,5

Garment hem seam allowances 30

Vent seam allowances 30

IF YOU ARE NOT HAPPY WITH OUR GIVEN SEAM ALLOWANCES,

PLEASE ADD YOUR OWN WHILE CUTTING THE PATTERN PIECES.

MATERIALS, EQUIPMENT
AND CONSUMABLE
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
01. Multipurpose sewing machine;
02. 3 thread overlock machine;
03. An iron with or without steam;
04. Regular presser foot;
05. Wooden iron;
06. Ironing desk or console table;
07. Hand needle for basting;
08. Machine needles №70-80;
09. Paper scissors;
10. Scissors for textile cutting.

IF YOU DO NOT HAVE AN OVERLOCK:

01. use regular machine’s vari-overlock stitch that mimics a serger’s stitch.
02. Finish raw edges with bias tape.

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FABRICS AND MATERIALS

MAIN FABRIC

For sewing this garment we recommend natural lightweight non-stretch fabrics with tight weaving. Such fabrics
will hold shape well, remove moisture in the heat and dry quickly. Linen or cotton is perfect. Fabric can be with or
without pattern.

IF YOU ARE NOT GOING TO CREATE A STIFF A-LINE SILHOUETTE, YOU CAN CHOOSE A
FLOWING AND FLUID FABRIC. IT CAN BE VISCOSE OR SILK.
THERE IS MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ON FABRIC CHOICE IN THE TUTORIAL. PART 1

INTERFACING MATERIALS YOU CAN

For better quality of sewing, we recommend to use the interfacing material. For PURCHASE
example, the interfacing material with the density of 20/30 g/m2 and with the INTERFACING
width of 150 cm will be a good choice. The density of the interfacing material IN OUR STORE
depends on the main fabric density.

THREADS
Choose thread accordingly to the thickness of your fabric. NUMBERING
We recommend using threads from №45 till №65. You will need 1 bobbin for DEPENDS ON THE
sewing machine and 3 bobbins for serger. PRODUCER

CONSUMABLE, М

Size 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54

1,00- 1,05- 1,05- 1,25- 1,25- 1,55- 1,55- 1,65- 1,65-

Main fabric, wide 140 cm
1,05 1,10 1,10 1,35 1,35 1,70 1,70 1,80 1,80

Interfacing, 150 cm wide 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30

Edge fusible tape, 1 cm wide 0,55 0,55 0,55 0,55 0,55 0,55 0,55 0,55 0,55

Bias fusible tape, 1 cm wide 1,10 1,14 1,18 1,22 1,26 1,30 1,34 1,38 1,42

THE USAGE OF ALL NEEDED MATERIALS IS CALCULATED AS THE AVERAGE, ACCORDING

TO 4 MAIN HEIGHT TYPES. ALSO, A LITTLE EXTRA FABRIC (COMPULSORY!) IS INCLUDED
IN CASE OF FABRIC SHRINKAGE (10-15 CM).

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GARMENT DETAILS
AND CUTTING
PATTERN PIECES LAYOUT OF THE MAIN FABRIC,
WIDE 140 CM

WHEN CUTTING
PATTERN PIECES
OF FABRIC,
PLACE THEM
ON A SINGLE
FABRIC LAYER,
WITH RIGHT SIDE
FACING DOWN

LIST OF DETAILS:

01. Back – 1 detail;

02. Front – 1 detail;
03. Back facing – 1 detail;
04. Front facing – 1 detail;
05. Shoulder strap – 2 details.

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FUSING PLAN
Details are shown from their wrong sides on the fusing plan map
for you to understand correct way to fuse details easier

WHEN CUTTING
PATTERN
PIECES FOR
INTERFACING,
PLACE THEM
ON A SINGLE
FABRIC LAYER,
WITH RIGHT SIDE
FACING DOWN

- Interfacing;
- Fusible on grain tape;
- Bias fusible tape.

LIST OF DETAILS FOR FUSING:

Interfacing:
— Facing of front (detail 4)
— Facing of back (detail 3)
— Slit seam allowances (detail 1, detail 2)

Edge fusible tape:

— Areas of fold of seam allowances on the slits (detail 1, detail 2)

Fusible bias tape:

— Neckline and armscye seam allowances of front (detail 2)
— Neckline and armscye seam allowances of back (detail 1)

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SEWING
SUCCESSION
Shoulder strap

Dart

Side seam

Slit

Front Back

YOU CAN FIND A VERY DETAILED VIDEO MASTER CLASS FOR THIS PATTERN WHICH
EXPLAIN A SEWING PROCESS. WATCH IT BEFORE YOU START SEWING OR DURING THE
PROCESS.
IT HAS THREE PARTS FOR YOUR CONVENIENT: PART 1, PART 2, PART 3.

PREPARATION BEFORE SEWING

TOILE CUTTING AND SEWING

01. Before cutting the details from the targeted fabric, we recommend sewing a mock-up and doing a fitting.
02. For sewing mock-up, you can use any inexpensive fabric with similar characteristics to the targeted fabric.
03. It is not necessary to cut facings and shoulder straps for fitting.
04. Baste details together. To avoid stretching upper edge, baste mock-up fabric selvedge on it. Instead of
shoulder straps you can use fabric selvedge or any tape.

FITTING

01. Put garment on.

02. Correct garment’s balance. Side seams must be vertical.
03. If necessary, correct volume on side seams.
04. Do it symmetrically from both sides in order not to narrow the garment and avoid sagging.

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05. Pay attention to correctness of bust dart volume. If necessary, correct volume.
06. If necessary, correct shoulder straps length.
07. If necessary, correct depth of neckline.
08. If necessary, correct garment length and slits length.
09. Transfer all changes to paper pattern.

CUTTING FABRIC AND PREPARATION FOR CUTTING

01. Preshrink all fabric (steam press).

02. Fold fabric face to face, connecting edges.
03. Put pattern details on fabric according to the scheme.
04. Pin together fabric layers.
05. Cut.

PREPARATION OF PARTS BEFORE SEWING

01. Transfer all contour lines, control lines, and notches to paired parts.
02. Fuse parts according to given scheme.
03. Baste garment and do fitting with your primary fabric.
Despite initial fitting, second fitting is necessary, because you can see garment volume nuances that
were not visible on the mock-up.

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SEWING
01. Stitch bust darts.

02. Press bust darts toward upper edge. Steam

press dart centre.

03. Cover side edges on your serger or stitch on oblique edging before stitching.
04. Place back and front parts face to face. Superpose front and back parts along side edges, connecting
notches.
05. Stitch side edges from armholes to slits.
06. Baste slits with a running stitch.

07. Press seam allowances and slits opened.

08. Stitch together side seams of facings. Press seam allowances opened.
Cover lower edge of facing on serger or stitch on oblique edging.
09. Fold shoulder straps (face inside) and stitch 0,5-0,7 cm from edge. It is possible to cut seam allowance,
but not necessary. It depends on your fabric and the final look you want it to have.
— If your fabric is lightweight, and you need a filled-in strap, it is not necessary to trim off seam allowance.
— If the fabric is heavyweight, and you do not need a filled-in strap, cut seam allowance to 0,3-0,5 cm.

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10. Turn shoulder straps on its outside. You can use

a special threader for this. We used a simple
needle for basting.

11. Press shoulder straps.

12. Stitch shoulder straps to front part of garment.

13. Do one more fitting, regulate shoulder straps
length. Stitch shoulder straps to back parts of
garment.

14. Place face of facing to face of garment along

neckline, armscyes and back. Align edges.
Stitch facing without stretching edges. Con-
trol stitching of parts in the area of back and
front centre, as well as in the area of side seams.
Shoulder straps stay between garment and fac-
ing in the area of armscye.

15. Stitch facing to upper edge of garment. Stitch

on fusible tape side.

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16. Cut seam allowances to 0,5-0,7 cm.

Clip seam allowance along the edges of armscye, back and and front centre. This is necessary for better
look of right side.
17. First, press seam allowances, then press them toward facing.
18. Turn garment and facing to different sides.
Direct seam allowances to facing. Make four
functional stitches on face of facing 0,1 cm
from connecting stitch, securing seam al-
lowances. Each stitch does not reach shoul-
der strap corner at 2-3 cm. Pay attention to
symmetrical distance for each strap.

19. Turn garment neckline to face, straighten

garment on this area.
20. Press neckline and armscye making sure you
can see a tiny bit of right side of garment
from facing.

21. Secure facing in side seams to prevent it

from turning inside out.

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22. Put garment on to regulate its length. If you decide to change garment’s length, it is now time to do it.
23. Remove basting thread from slits.
25. Finish hem.
26. Press hem.

27. Finish corners of slits as shown in the tu-

torial.

28. Mark the line of finishing stitch, which will

secure seam allowances of hem and slits.

29. Stitch hem and slits.

30. Steam press the garment.
The sundress is ready.

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SEWING TERMS
STITCH Join together similar details. Place the pieces together with the right sides facing
each other. Even the edges. And join them by machine stitching according to the
given seam allowances measurements.

ATTACH OR SEW Attach or sew on details that differ in size, using a machine stitch.
(STITCH) ON

FINISHING EDGES Joining two details together, which are later turned inside out. The seam allowances
WITH FACING are remaining inside, whereas the seam runs along the edge of the joined pieces.

TO STITCH IN Means stitching garment details together around their edges.

TO STITCH ON Means fixation of a small detail to the right face of a bigger detail.

TO STITCH UP Means stitching to fix folded edges, pleats, darts, pin-tucks.

REINFORCING Stitch that reinforces the inner side of the garment. It is done on the right side. The
TOPSTITCH stitch is added strictly on top of the stitched line where the details are sewn togeth-
er, so it is not visible on the right side of the design.

BASTE Temporary join details, using hand baste stitching. Stitch length - 0,5 or 1 cm.

BASTE ON Temporary attach small detail to the main one, using baste stitching.

REINFORCING Temporary reinforces folded seam allowance with hand stitches.

BASTING STITCH

DIAGONAL BASTING Is a series of temporary parallel, horizontal stitches that produce diagonal floats of
thread on the top layer of fabric.

SLIP STITCHES Are hand stitches that are used for invisible securing details between each other
both from the wrong and right sides of the garment.

BASTE INTO THE Place the seam allowances into the opposite sides and fix the seam allowances with
OPPOSITE SIDES the insu-lation material by using diagonal stitches.

WET-HEAT PRO- Means ironing with steam garment itself or only it’s one certain area.
CESSING

PRESS FLAT Reduce seam or fold thickness by applying pressure with hot iron.

IRON OUT Means forwarding seam allowances to same garment’s part.

PRESS OPEN Use the tip of the iron to press the seam allowance open and press it well so each
seam allowance is on the two sides of the seam.

PRESS TO SHRINK Is to reduce excess fullness on the determined area using the steam iron to give it
shape.

STRETCHING Is used to make a detail’s edge longer and concave.

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