Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Ss22 Fashion Week Report
Ss22 Fashion Week Report
Ss22 Fashion Week Report
Fashion Weeks
Report
Armenyl
Edito
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September has always been a crucial month in the No political speech, no alarmist warning, no critical
fashion world. Anticipated, watched, and look at the state of the world and of society. Back
sometimes feared for its intensity, it is both a to normal, back to business. If voices were raised,
highlight of a year and the start of the « rentrée ». they were not from the brands themselves. If
This September was all the more special as it had brands had announced their departure from the
the flavor of a return to "normalcy". If for nearly calendar, they offered us flamboyant parades. We
four seasons everything seemed to be turned received sexiness, an insane wealth of details, the
upside down, the month that has just passed exhilaration of over-the-top shows reminiscent of
cannot lie; what had been interrupted is about to the splendor of the 90s.
resume its normal course.
If we at Heuritech focus on the trends that emerge
If we should remember just one thing from this from the shows, we remain attentive to the
past month, it is that fashion, more than ever, has movements that irrigate the fashion world as a
been the vehicle for staging the garment. Far from whole. These movements did not seem to concern
a simple parable and a reference to Guy Debord, a world of fashion, caught up in the joy of finally
the title that we have chosen for one of our meeting physically. In this month of September, it
themes, the Société du Spectacle, sums up in itself seems that fashion has simply handed us a mirror,
the formidable demonstration of staging offered to and thus we contemplate the reflection of our only
us by the houses for the Spring-Summer 2022 desire, the only thing that we have wanted to
season. Perhaps we have witnessed the very contemplate since the start of the pandemic: the
quintessence of what fashion is, a staging in itself, return of some form of normality far from the
a staging of oneself. Rarely has fashion so much, worries which we will however have to deal with
and simply, embodied the daily spectacle of the urgently.
very act of dressing.
CECILIE BAHNSEN
─── AGENDA
1 ─── Methodology
2 ─── City Spotlight: Top Print
& Material Trends
PradaPrada
Miu Miu
Heuritech: Fashion and Technology savoir-faire
IMAGES ANALYSES
FORECASTS
A dedicated team of experts,
here to help you transform.
Altuzarra Fendi
London 17%
+4pts vs. SS 21
14% 12%
KNIT SHEER
4. 5.
1.
14%
SATIN
Materials
1. PETER DO
2. 3.1 PHILIP LIM
3. PRIVATE POLICY
4.
5.
6.
BRANDON MAXWELL
ECKHAUS LATTA
ANNA SUI
19% 22% 26%
CHECKED STRIPES FLORAL
CITY SPOTLIGHT: LONDON TOP TRENDS
1. 2. 3. Prints
6.
13% 9%
DENIM LACE
4. 5.
1.
17%
SHEER
Materials
1. SUPRIYA LELE
2. REJINA PYO
3. SIMONE ROCHA
4.
5.
6.
STELLA MCCARTNEY
ERDEM
MOLLY GODDARD
18% 25% 25%
CHECKED FLORAL STRIPES
CITY SPOTLIGHT: MILAN TOP TRENDS
1. 2. 3. Prints
6.
11% 10%
KNIT LACE
4. 5.
1.
18%
SHEER
Materials
1. SPORTMAX
2. CORMIO
3. PHILOSOPHY
4.
5.
6.
BOSS
SPORTMAX
MSGM
9% 20% 27%
ANIMAL STRIPES FLORAL
CITY SPOTLIGHT: PARIS TOP TRENDS
1. 2. 3. Prints
6.
13% 11%
SHEER KNIT
4. 5.
1.
17%
DENIM
Materials
1. LOEWE
2. CECILIE BAHNSEN
3. PAUL SMITH
4.
5.
6.
DIOR
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
LACOSTE
8% 17% 19%
COLOR BLOCK FLORAL VERTICAL STRIPES
Thematic Ready-to-Wear
Trend Analysis
The key fabric, print, color, and silhouette trends along
with qualitative insights from the SS 22 runways
VAILLANT STUDIO
NENSI DOJAKA
Sheer
Safe Bet
Women
+4%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
FLAT
1.
JW ANDERSON
EMILIO PUCCI
Sheer
1. 2. 3.
1. SUPRIYA LELE
2. ACIELLE
3. EMILIO PUCCI
4. MYNOK
GIVENCHY 4. 5. 6. 5. VALENTINO
6. ECKHAUS LATTA
Lace
Safe Bet
Women
<1%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
FLAT
VAQUERA
FENDI
Lace
1. 2. 3.
1. VALENTINO
2. AK FOR VIVIENNE
WESTWOOD
3. YUHAN WANG
4. GAUCHERE
RODARTE 4. 5. 6. 5. TOM FORD
6. WOS
Mini Dresses
Safe Bet
Women
-5%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
SLIGHTLY DECREASING
WOS
NINA RICCI
Mini Dresses
1. 2. 3.
1. ACNE STUDIOS
2. SELF-PORTRAIT
3. NO. 21
4. NENSI DOJAKA
VAILLANT STUDIO 4. 5. 6. 5. SIMON MILLER
6. ACIELLE
Midi Bodycon
Dress Safe Bet
Women
+9%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
SLIGHTLY INCREASING
1. 2. 3.
1. VERSACE
2. NANUSHKA
3. PRABAL GURUNG
4. ANNA SUI
SIMON MILLER 4. 5. 6. 5. MICHAEL KORS
6. DAISY MURRAY
Asymmetric
Neck Dresses Fashion Bet
Women
+15%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
MODERATELY INCREASING
DIDU
OTTOLINGER
Asymmetric
Neck Dress
1. 2. 3.
1. A.W.A.K.E. MODE
2. OTTOLINGER
3. GCDS
4. DAVID KOMA
NINAMOUNAH 4. 5. 6. 5. LOEWE
6. STAUD
Micro Shorts
Safe Bet
Women
+9%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
SLIGHTLY INCREASING
CALVIN LUO
NENSI DOJAKA
Micro Shorts
1. 2. 3.
1. BLUMARINE
2. GIVENCHY
3. CHANEL
4. COPERNI
HELMUT LANG 4. 5. 6. 5. TYLER JOE
6. MOSCHINO
Pink
Safe Bet
Women
+5%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
SLIGHTLY INCREASING
MARINE SERRE
ROKH
Pink
1. 2. 3.
1. KIM SHUI
2. ACIELLE
3. NO. 21
4. REJINA PYO
WOS 4. 5. 6. 5. SIMBARASHE CHA
6. VERSACE
Cut Outs
4. 5.
Buckle
Details
Bondage-inspired
Buckle Details have a bondage
reference, which we first spotted at the
Dior Resort show earlier in the summer.
With the “sexy liberation” trend in full
force this season, it comes as no
2. 3.
surprise that there has been an increase
in Buckles throughout the shows.
4. 5.
Creative
Stockings
The finishing touch
Eccentric tights added styling depth to
many runway looks. Their classic lingerie
connotations made them a crucial part
of the lingerie dressing look. Through the
use of stockings, designers were able to
2. 3.
emphasize their preferred choice of
trends such as Blue, Lace, Cut Out and
Feathers. At Maisie Wilen for example,
her looks incorporated each of these
trends. Through the use of lace tights, an
additional layer of lingerie became the
1.
highlight of the look.
4. 5.
Catsuits
All-in-one
Catsuits provided a new trendy
silhouette to the evening wear wardrobe.
These form-enhancing one pieces were
often paired with matching shoes for a
complete uniform look. Designers
2. 3.
worked additional elements of lingerie
dressing into the look, with the inclusion
of sheer lace knit fabric, such as that
seen at Acne Studios.
4. 5.
Bra Top
Underwear-as-outerwear
Bra Tops were a highlight of the shows
in each of the fashion cities. The most
popular shape was undoubtedly the
beachwear inspired triangle bikini bra
top, such as that seen at David Koma.
2. 3.
Taking a more structured approach,
corsetry-inspired conical bustier bras
were spotted on the London runways at
brands such as Simone Rocha. Bandeau
bras tops were also popular as a layering
mechanism at Valentino and Missoni.
1.
Taking a revisionist attitude towards
these lingerie staples, Courrèges worked
1. EMILIO PUCCI
2. COURRÈGES
a halter neck into a bra top.
3. DAVID KOMA
4. MISSONI
5. VALENTINO
4. 5.
Low Rise
4. 5.
BACK TO THE
ARCHIVES
BRAND HERITAGE, Y2K VINTAGE REVIVAL AND
SUBVERSIVE NOSTALGIA
CHANEL
SAINT LAURENT
Orange Yellow
Bold Bet
Women
+12%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
MODERATELY INCREASING
HELMUT LANG
PETER DO
Orange Yellow
1. 2. 3.
1. CHLOÉ
2. KWAIDAN EDITIONS
3. SUPRIYA LELE
4. PETER DO
5. PROENZA
SIMON MILLER 4. 5. 6. SCHOULER
6. HELMUT LANG
Puff Sleeve
Dresses Safe Bet
Women
<1%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
FLAT
CECILIE BAHNSEN
SIMONE ROCHA
Puff Sleeve
Dresses
1. 2. 3.
1. MOLLY GODDARD
2. MM6 MAISON
MARGIELA
3. PHIL OH
4. RICHARD QUINN
CECILIE BAHNSEN 4. 5. 6. 5. JASON WU
6. STAUD
Cardigan
Safe Bet
Women
-1%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
FLAT
ET OCHS
ACNE STUDIOS
Cardigan
1. 2. 3.
1. SIMONE ROCHA
2. A.W.A.K.E. MODE
3. C+PLUS SERIES
4. MARINE SERRE
CALVIN LUO 4. 5. 6. 5. ACIELLE
6. NANUSHKA
Wide Leg
Pants Safe Bet
Women
+3%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
FLAT
VICTORIA BECKHAM
KWAIDAN EDITIONS
Wide Leg
Pants
1. 2. 3.
1. MSGM
2. SALVATORE
FERRAGAMO
3. ACIELLE
4. FENDI
5. ACIELLE
MYNOK 4. 5. 6. 6. MM6 MAISON
MARGIELA
Bomber Jacket
Safe Bet
Women
+4%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
FLAT
BALENCIAGA
LOEWE
Bomber
Jacket
1. 2. 3.
1. BLUMARINE
2. LANVIN
3. COURREGES
4. COPERNI
KHAITE 4. 5. 6. 5. RAF SIMONS
6. KNWLS
Oversized
Shirt Safe Bet
Women
-1%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
FLAT
1.
GAUCHERE
RAF SIMONS
Oversized
Shirt
1. 2. 3.
1. RAF SIMONS
2. LUDOVIC DE SAINT
SERNIN
3. MISSONI
4. SHANG XIA
VICTORIA BECKHAM
4. 5. 6. 5. FENDI
6. DAVID KOMA
Tennis
Mini Skirt Safe Bet
Women
-8%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
SLIGHTLY DECREASING
CALVIN LUO
LACOSTE
Tennis
Mini Skirt
1. 2. 3.
1. MIU MIU
2. KNWLS
3. DIOR
4. PORTS 1961
SANDY LIANG 4. 5. 6. 5. ACIELLE
6. SIMBARASHE CHA
Plaid
Safe Bet
Women
-7%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
SLIGHTLY DECREASING
CALVIN LUO
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Plaid
1. 2. 3.
1. WILLY CHAVARRIA
2. OTTOLINGER
3. ACIELLE
4. ACNE STUDIOS
A POTTS 4. 5. 6. 5. TYLER JOE
6. MOSCHINO
Suits
4. 5.
Butterfly
Motifs
SS 22 Metamorphosis
The butterfly has been coined as the
“mascot of Spring 2022”. This Y2K detail
has been revived from the archive of
some brands while others have simply
used this signifier of rebirth as a source
2. 3.
of inspiration for their collections.
4. 5.
Denim on
Denim
The Canadian Tuxedo
Historically, denim was the classic
workwear fabric, however this season,
styling a full denim look was a bold
styling choice that appeared throughout
several shows. Designers interpreted the
2. 3.
“Canadian tuxedo” in various ways;
Cormio proposed a mini skirt and denim
jacket set, while Blumarine took a Y2K
approach to the trend with their butterfly
denim top.
1.
The trend applies to all genders; at
Sunnei the trend appeared for men’s and
women’s looks, as denim is a timeless
1. CORMIO
2. MSGM
fabric that remains a fixture seemingly
3. SUNNEI every season.
4. BLUMARINE
5. REJINA PYO
4. 5.
Fringe
4. 5.
LA SOCIÉTÉ DU
SPECTACLE
PERFORMING THE SPECTACLE OF FASHION
+9%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
SLIGHTLY INCREASING
VALENTINO
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
Feathers
1. 2. 3.
1. VALENTINO
2. FENDI
3. ROKH
4. DAVID KOMA
PRABAL GURUNG 4. 5. 6. 5. SUPRIYA LELE
6. MOSCHINO
Sequins
Fashion Bet
Women
+19%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
MODERATELY INCREASING
GIVENCHY
LOEWE
Sequins
1. 2. 3.
1. VALENTINO
2. FREDERICK
ANDERSON
3. PLS
4. WOS
NICOLE MILLER 4. 5. 6. 5. TYLER JOE
6. NO. 21
Satin
Fashion Bet
Women
+12%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
MODERATELY INCREASING
PETER DO
JIL SANDER
Satin
1. 2. 3.
1. GABRIELA HEARST
2. TOM FORD
3. RAF SIMONS
4. VALENTINO
TEMPERLEY LONDON 4. 5. 6. 5. ROKH
6. JIL SANDER
Metallic
Safe Bet
Women
-1%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
FLAT
VAILLANT STUDIO
KHAITE
Metallic
1. 2. 3.
1. OTTOLINGER
2. SPORTMAX
3. PRIVATE POLICY
4. COPERNI
WOS 4. 5. 6. 5. LOEWE
6. COURRÈGES
Off the Shoulder
Safe Bet
Women
-4%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
FLAT
1.
THEBE MAGUGU
KNWLS
Off the
Shoulder
1. 2. 3.
1. ROKH
2. SPORTMAX
3. ACNE STUDIOS
4. SELF PORTRAIT
KHAITE 4. 5. 6. 5. TYLER JOE
6. GCDS
Thick Vertical
Stripes Bold Bet
Women
+13%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
MODERATELY INCREASING
ANNE ISABELLA
Thick Vertical
Stripes
1. 2. 3.
1. JIL SANDER
2. ECKHAUS LATTA
3. SUNNEI
4. PAUL SMITH
JW ANDERSON 4. 5. 6. 5. MARNI
6. C+ PLUS SERIES
Floral
Safe Bet
Women
+2%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
FLAT
KWAIDAN EDITIONS
Floral
1. 2. 3.
1. SAINT LAURENT
2. PAUL SMITH
3. MISSONI
4. VALENTINO
ERDEM 4. 5. 6. 5. MSGM
6. RICHARD QUINN
Medium
Green Safe Bet
Women
+9%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
SLIGHTLY INCREASING
CONCEPT KOREA
KWAIDAN EDITIONS
Medium
Green
1. 2. 3.
1. DIOR
2. MARK FAST
3. ACIELLE
4. SUPRIYA LELE
STAND STUDIO 4. 5. 6 5. SØREN JEPSEN
6. VALENTINO
Orange
Safe Bet
Women
+6%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
SLIGHTLY INCREASING
CECILIE BAHNSEN
SUNNEI
Orange
1. 2. 3.
1. STAUD
2. RICK OWENS
3. ACIELLE
4. PAUL SMITH
AWAKE MODE 4. 5. 6. 5. ACIELLE
6. VERSACE
Bold Color
Pairings
Dopamine Dressing
Creating a color block effect by pairing
brightly colored garments together in
one look was a break-out styling trend
this season, in line with the “dopamine
dressing” trend. Moreover, pairing
2. 3.
contrasting colors like orange and blue
together was a popular choice amongst
brands like Versace and Supriya Lele to
create stand-out looks that are sure to
attract attention.
1.
Bold Color Pairings can also be spotted
on the runways of Valentino, Philosophy
di Lorenzo Serafini, and Xuly.Bët,
1. KWAIDAN EDITIONS
2. VERSACE
creating an uplifting energetic mood for
3. PAUL SMITH the upcoming SS 22 season.
4. GESTUZ
5. REJINA PYO
4. 5.
Pattern
Clashing
More prints please!
Combining several prints in one look is a
trend that appeared primarily in Paris
and Milan this season, evoking our
spectacle theme by creating a bold
statement. The Pattern Clashing trend
2. 3.
appeared either as two separate printed
pieces styled together, as seen by
Missoni and GCDS, or as two prints
combined in one garment, as seen by
Ottolinger.
1.
This daring trend is in line with the
flamboyant, eye-catching approach to
dressing that several designers favored
1. OTTOLINGER
2. GCDS
this season, creating a loud statement
3. MARNI that is sure to attract attention.
4. PHILOSOPHY
5. MARNI
4. 5.
Head-to-Toe
Prints
Matchy-matchy
While Floral and Vertical Stripes were the
predominant print trends of Spring
Summer 2022, the styling of these prints
as a full matching ensemble has been a
recurring statement look throughout this
2. 3.
Fashion month.
4. 5.
Ruffles
4. 5.
Thematic Accessories
Trend Analysis
All the must-have bag, shoe, and accessory trends from
the SS 22 runways and streetstyle
Loewe
VIBRANT THEATRICS
RICHARD QUINN
SIMONE ROCHA
Platform Shoes Platform Sandals
Safe Bet
Women
+<1%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
FLAT
Flatform Boots
Steady
Women
1.
-8%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
SLIGHTLY DECREASING
GCDS
SCHIAPARELLI
Platform
Shoes
1. 2. 3.
1. ACNE STUDIOS
2. VIVIENNE
WESTWOOD
3. KIRA
4. MELITTA
BAUMEISTER
SIMONE ROCHA 4. 5. 6. 5. KIRA
6. VERSACE
Pointed Toe
Safe Bet
Women
+2%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
FLAT
1.
BALMAIN
RAVE REVIEW
Pointed Toe
1. 2. 3.
1. PRADA
2. ROKSANDA
3. RAVE REVIEW
4. HODAKOVA
5. ALEXANDRE
BALENCIAGA 4. 5. 6. VAUTHIER
6. VERSACE
Maxi
Bags
It’s bigger on the inside!
Maxi Bags were by far the most
extravagant accessory to be spotted on
the SS 22 runway. After the humongous
success of the mini bag, it’s antagonist
has taken position at the center of the
2. 3.
stage. However, the Mini Bag also played
a significant role in this year’s
collections, often hand-in-hand with the
Maxi Bag.
4. 5.
Long
Bags
Now that’s a stretch!
Creating a striking contrast with the
sleek and sexy silhouettes in this
season’s collections, the Long Bag
stands out. Though it may not be a
necessarily practical shape, it has been
2. 3.
adopted by many edgy consumers. With
Maison Valentino’s new elongated shape
or Balmain’s puffy rectangle, houses
seem to be betting on this look for SS
22.
1.
The Long Bag has been a trend both on
and off the runway, with many small
brands already adopting this shape. The
1. PORTS 1961
2. MAISON KITSUNÉ
runway shows will certainly aid the
3. BALMAIN process of bringing a longer shape to the
4. VALENTINO trendy consumer base and broaden the
5. OTTOLINGER
market.
4. 5.
Upper Arm
Bracelets
Reinvented elegance
The Upper Arm Bracelet was another
eye-catching piece that spread across
numerous collections. From Prada’s
elegant brassière, to a sportier version
by Chopova Lowena, they were another
2. 3.
way to add a theatrical element to the
look. Courrèges and Emilio Pucci stayed
on trend, incorporating fringes in theirs
to create extra volume and movement.
4. 5.
Long
Gloves
Accessories for the red carpet
Adding to the dramatic theme, Long
Gloves for the SS 22 season are here to
build a statement look. Many designers
were seen creating gloves matching with
their garments, like Maison Margiela
2. 3.
adding metallic embellishments or
simply through colour and material as
shown by Rick Owens and Maximilian.
4. 5.
Train
Details
It speaks volumes
In the spirit of theatrics, the Train Detail
added a certain ceremonial aspect to the
SS 22 details. The ceremony could be
that of a new beginning, adding dramatic
effect to previously simple silhouettes.
2. 3.
The trains appeared to be quite a
versatile addition, as they could be seen
as an extension of a top, skirt, dress or
even a hat or scarf.
4. 5.
LIFE AQUATIC
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
CHET LO
Rain Boots
Safe Bet
Women
-7%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
SLIGHTLY DECREASING
MAISON MARGIELA
NINA RICCI
Rain Boots
1. 2. 3.
1. ANTEPRIMA
2. MAISON MARGIELA
3. DIOR
4. MAISON KITSUNÉ
STYLE DU MONDE 4. 5. 6. 5. SHANG XIA
6. STYLE DU MONDE
Thigh-high Boots
Safe Bet
Women
+<1%
In Summer 22 vs. last year
FLAT
MAISON MARGIELA
GIVENCHY
Thigh-high
Boots
1. 2. 3.
1. ANTEPRIMA
2. COURRÈGES
3. RICK OWENS
4. SCHIAPARELLI
5. STYLE DU MONDE
6. ANDREAS
KRONTHALER
BALENCIAGA 4. 5. 6. FOR VIVIENNE
WESTWOOD
Bucket
Hats
Come rain or shine
The Bucket Hat made an impactful
return to the runway this season, along
with numerous interpretations of rain
hats across collections. Of course, these
were present for casual wear brands, but
2. 3.
surprisingly, more formal brands also
included versions of the bucket hat on
the runway.
4. 5.
Swim
Caps
The stylish cover-up
The Swim Cap was a surprising trend to
see on the runway and was the most
apparent trend for this theme. Inspired
by its winter counterpart that was all the
rage for FW 21, the balaclava,
2. 3.
tight-fitting headwear seems to remain
an important stylistic element for next
year.
4. 5.
Soft
Bags
Malleable functionality
Soft Bags were a huge trend this season
and helped evoke the aquatic theme with
their flowy and almost moldable nature.
Most of these bags used a mix of
materials to ensure a certain retention of
2. 3.
shape in necessary areas, particularly at
the top handle or for support at the
bottom.
4. 5.
Bag
Layering
A new styling approach
Bag Layering is another utilitarian trend
that has infiltrated the styling world and
was one of the most noticeable trends
during fashion week. Often pairing a
large bag with a smaller accessory,
2. 3.
many designers have featured this
exciting new styling and mindset,
particularly spotted with Maxi and Mini
Bag combinations.
4. 5.
Key 1. Paris was the most talked-about fashion
week this season, followed by New York,
Takeaways
Milan, and London, representing a major shift
from last year