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Fast-Paced Fashion
Weaving the Fabric of the Future
June 2024
By Christian Kirschniak, Sebastian Boger, Stefan Trifonov, Anton Haberler-Koenig, Florian Burger, and Felix Graeber
Boston Consulting Group partners with leaders in
business and society to tackle their most important
challenges and capture their greatest opportunities.
BCG was the pioneer in business strategy when it
was founded in 1963. Today, we work closely with
clients to embrace a transformational approach
aimed at benefiting all stakeholders—empowering
organizations to grow, build sustainable competitive
advantage, and drive positive societal impact.
T
he fashion and luxury industries are at a critical These insights are derived from the recent study Fast-Mov-
juncture: adapt digitally or risk obsolescence. The ing Tech—Fast-Paced Fashion: Weaving the Fabric of the
landscape is being revolutionized by rapid technolog- Future by BCG, which included an exclusive survey of
ical advancements. Since 2020, a small selection of ultra- 10,000 consumers across Europe and the United States.
fast fashion players have entered the industry, massively
scaling their revenues by gaining market share from Here are the key findings:
incumbent players and using technology to their advan-
tage. Price, availability, and variety have become crucial Fashion players’ technology strategies must
elements driving the business. A significant portion of fulfill 3 CIO missions to deliver on current and
young customers now prefer brands that excel online, with future shopper needs
a substantial number embracing fast fashion.
This shift accelerates critical challenges for fashion and Mission #1:
luxury market sectors, which are notably behind in digital Deliver lean core platforms to maximize business agility
maturity compared to industries such as high tech and
retail as a whole. Established fashion players must urgently • Legacy technology hinders innovation and flexibility,
invest in technology to keep pace with industry leaders and requiring conscious decisions on processes in lean core
remain competitive (see Exhibit 1), especially within the platforms versus ecosystem solutions.
incoming younger customer segments.
• Online shoppers—those who prefer to make purchases In conclusion, success in the fashion industry hinges on
online rather than in traditional brick-and-mortar embracing technological advancements and catering to
stores—tend to buy more products per transaction than the preferences of digitally savvy customers. By prioritizing
offline shoppers. agility, integration, and data-driven strategies, fashion
players can stay ahead of the curve and thrive in a rapidly
• 70 percent of online shoppers purchase multiple items evolving market landscape.
per transaction compared to only 49 percent of offline
shoppers.
Average benchmark scores across selected industries in digital capabilities versus tech efficiency and resilience
High
Insurance
High tech Financial services
Consumer goods
Retail overall Cross-industry average
Utilities Healthcare
Fashion and luxury retail
Oil and gas
Improvement Efficiency/
Low n eed Resilience focus
*
Digital capabilities of the IT/tech function evaluated along six major dimensions: Business/tech operating model; digital, data and AI; technology
landscape; talent, culture, and processes; sourcing excellence; and cybersecurity.
The fashion market is undergoing fundamental change. In a large-scale proprietary direct customer study, 10,000
Ultra-fast fashion (UFF) companies are entering the mar- customers in 10 countries1 in Europe and the United States
ket, putting massive pressure on retail fashion merchants were asked. These three objectives serve as the core focus
and pure e-commerce players alike. They are setting new of the research, enabling fashion tech executives to make
standards in the digital customer experience, creating informed decisions and strategic investments:
conditions that established providers lag behind. While
digibily-minded retailers such as UFF players invest 6 to 14 • Evaluate today’s primary shopper journeys, behaviors,
percent of their revenue on tech, traditional retailers spend and preferences and discern the key differences in their
only 1 to 3 percent (see Exhibit 2). Additionally, fashion fashion needs.
companies already trail behind other industries in terms of
digital maturity (see Exhibit 1). This prompted Boston Con- • Identify major and emerging shopper trends and exam-
sulting Group to take a closer look at fashion shopping ine the role of technology in shaping them.
behavior in Europe and the United States.
• Prioritize areas for technology and digital transformation
to gain a competitive advantage.
1. Austria, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Poland, Spain, Switzerland, USA
The respondents shared in-depth fashion attitudes and From these, three missions have been identified that chief
behaviors across the most pressing fashion tech topics: information officers (CIOs) should consider in shaping their
best shopping experiences, sources of influence, online technology and digital strategy. The following chapters dive
versus offline preferences, generational differences, as well deeper into these missions along the impacts on the
as sustainable views versus behaviors. fashion industry and technology. At the conclusion, the
report outlines the key capabilities of the recommended
This resulted in 12 key shopper behavior shifts that are technological innovations, highlights important consider-
shaping the industry (see Exhibit 3). ations for their implementation, and provides insights from
interviews conducted with CIOs of fashion and luxury
players.
Content
Ultra-fast will be Price is Omnichannel Offline inspiration Recommendations
expectations are
ultra-disruptive #1 dominates matters drive revenue
evolving
Mixed willingness
Out-of-stock = High interest for Online buys Mass market Experience
to pay for
out-of-revenue high-tech more losing online matters
sustainability
T
he emergence of ultra-fast fashion players has signifi- capabilities, and take a closer look at them through differ-
cantly influenced customer expectations, particularly ent lenses (e.g., need for flexibility in customization versus
in terms of price, availability, and variety. Upon exam- functional stability of the system). Second, based on an
ining legacy fashion and luxury players, it becomes evident integrated capability view, explicit decisions will have to be
that their current technological infrastructure falls short of made on which capabilities and processes fall within the
meeting the demands of contemporary shoppers. Outdated ERP’s lean core versus its ecosystem. Only after analyzing
platforms such as monolithic legacy ERP systems serve as its game plan in these two specific areas can a player
barriers to innovation, hindering their ability to adapt and adjust its platforms, given that there is no one-size-fits-all
evolve. Thus, there is a pressing need to transition towards lean platform.
lean, modular platforms to foster agility in business models
and enhance competitiveness in the market. This is an BCG insight: Many companies are aware of this and are
imperative for fashion and luxury companies despite pursuing (fragmented) modernization projects. Especially
emerging cost pressure in the current market situation. in highly complex, large-scale transformation programs
such as ERP transformations, cost overruns of 50–100%
Fashion players furthermore need to clarify their strategic compared to the original plan are the rule rather than the
priorities to determine their ERP structure. First, they need exception. This has obvious negative implications for the
to be clear on their overall tech and digital strategy and business and creates large uncertainty around the value of
derive their relevant “right-to-win” and “right-to-play” these programs—also among investors.
• Two-thirds of women aged 18–24 have experimented with 2 Ultra-fast fashion companies have significant cost
advantages, given they do not need to modernize
ultra-fast fashion, while men show a lower preference but legacy technology and their profitable “on-demand”
considerable interest, indicating a potential market gap. production, meaning manufacturing upon receipt of a
relevant quantity of orders.
• Even the 35-and-over demographic shows interest in
ultra-fast fashion. Among 35-and-over women, 55 percent
have either made purchases or expressed interest, while 3 On the other hand, ultra-fast fashion players lack the
benefits of retail stores and physical touchpoints, allow-
the figure stands at 46 percent among 35-and-over men. ing for more traditional players to use existing physical
assets to regain a competitive advantage in building
• The United States is leading with a 12 percent adoption brand image, customer relationships, and purchase
of ultra-fast fashion, compared to 7 percent in Europe. inspiration as well as giving space to micro-fulfillment
In the United States, 36 percent have already purchased centers within stores.
ultra-fast fashion, compared to 32 percent in Europe.
Key requirements for technology:
• In Europe, Hungary clearly stands out from the average: Modern, modular architecture
12 percent buy ultra-fast fashion there, compared to 7
percent in Europe as a whole. To keep pace with ultra-fast fashion brands, traditional
omnichannel providers require agile, modular systems with
low tech debt, enabling the development of new business
“Ultra-fast fashion offers a large selec- models to compete. This is true for large core systems such
as ERP but also within a wide range of capabilities includ-
tion of trendy products at low prices.” ing pricing, loyalty, replenishment, and others.
• For 60 percent of shoppers, price and value are the top 1 Tiered pricing, loyalty programs, discounts, or other
initiatives and tools should be established or further
shopping drivers, followed by free shipping and variety enhanced to make customers feel they can save and
for online shoppers and variety and store location for obtain the best price and value.
offline shoppers.
• The least important factors are customer support and 2 It’s also crucial in this context to factor in free ship-
ping in online business models, to have the “right-to-
click and collect among online factors and interactive play” in comparison to ultra-fast fashion players.
fitting rooms and inventory and stock check apps among
offline factors.
“My preferred ultra-fast fashion brand offers the opportunity to indulge myself at
very low prices, and it has a points program that makes me visit the app every day.”
Male, 30, Spain
% Percentage of people in the channel who ranked the factor in their top 3
factors to customers—they are not true differentiators The findings: When a product is out of stock, it often
in customers’ eyes but are critical to their shopping results in a lost sale, as shoppers typically do not opt for a
journey. substitute item (see Exhibit 5).
Key requirements for technology: • Over 60 percent of shoppers do not purchase an item in
Leverage tech to cut costs the event that their desired product is unavailable.
Utilize core system usage for cost-efficient operations • 28 percent of online shoppers tend to set a reminder to
online and offline, and clearly link technology spending to be informed when the item is back in stock—in contrast,
the business strategy, using data to focus efforts where only 11 percent of offline shoppers set the same type of
they bring the most value. reminder.
3 2 1 1 1 2
Exclusively in-store More often in-store Similarly often More often online Exclusively online
In the ever-evolving landscape of fashion and luxury, the BCG insight: Few players have achieved a seamless expe-
convergence of online and in-store experiences has rience between channels along the entire customer jour-
become imperative. Today’s customers expect a seamless ney, with most players focusing on dedicated touchpoints
journey across channels and along the majority of touch- (e.g., delivery options like BOPIS). The main challenges
points. For fashion retailers striving to stay ahead, harness- players face is their legacy technology landscape, where
ing the power of an integrated technology stack is para- online technology has been built on top of store operations
mount. This chapter delves into the imperative for software but is not integrated. Tracing customers and
omnichannel players to leverage their brick-and-mortar products both online and offline (e.g., through RFID tags),
presence in delivering a unified shopping experience. By requires a significant investment in hardware (e.g., scan-
seamlessly integrating social, online, and in-store channels, ners) as well as integrating core technology, like distributed
retailers can captivate customers, stimulate higher spend- order management systems, to generate and process
ing, and drive engagement. structured data in a unified, channel-agnostic way.
thing I bought online doesn’t fit, I can • Of all omnichannel shoppers, 82 percent prefer offline
inspiration versus 81 percent who choose online inspira-
just leave it in the store.” tion touchpoints.
87 82 85
81
67
54
27 26
7 2 6 1 5 2
In-store preference Omni preference Online preference
4.4 Mass market losing online 1 To regain market share in the ever-changing market
dynamics, especially of the online world, mass market
players need to double down on the online user shop-
The findings: Mass market is still the most popular seg- ping experience.
ment, however, it is experiencing a decline in popularity
among online shoppers (see Exhibit 8).
2 As shoppers’ needs and table-stakes features are
continuously evolving, players need to ensure a highly
• Mass market has the lowest percentage of shoppers with adaptable front end for continuous changes.
an online preference (28 percent) and the second largest
offline preference (41 percent). Key requirements for technology:
Enhance online user experience
• Not surprisingly, UFF has the highest share of shoppers
with an online preference with close to 50 percent. It is essential that websites and applications facilitate
advanced personalization and customization of the online
• Across all shoppers and countries, mass market is still journey to cater to individual preferences by remaining
the preferred shopping segment with 50 percent (in-store modular and adaptable.
preference) and 40 percent (online preference). The dif-
ference of 10 percentage points can be largely explained
with UFF being the preferred segment of 11 percent of
online shoppers versus only 4 percent of offline shop-
pers, which equals a difference of almost 3 times.
In-store preference
22 18
32 Omni preference
33 37
41 46 Online preference
33
36
33 31
31
31 24
49
43 37
34 30 32
28
I
n today’s fashion landscape, digital incumbents are potential—also tapping into the world of generative AI. Join
reshaping the industry with high convenience, a broad the exploration of how data-driven strategies can elevate
range of assortment, including rapid release cycles, and the business to the next level of success and innovation in
new engagement models around customer-created con- the ever-evolving fashion market.
tent. This entails a fully data-driven business model, being
able to automate decisions and tasking as well as captur- BCG insight: Most fashion players neither achieve nor
ing customer sentiments through social listening at broad focus on superior data capabilities as a business priority
scale. Recognizing data as a foundational asset and shap- around the five operational core data assets: customer,
ing the business model around the typical friction points in product, pricing, promotions, and stock.
the customer and product journey is key to unlocking new
• Notably, the influence of recommendations is most pro- Key requirements for technology:
nounced in the ultra-high-end segment, with a quarter of Captivate the customer
online shoppers and 17 percent of offline customers in
this segment reporting that they always make purchases Make content relevant for the customer by engaging peers
based on recommendations. from the same segment. Providing a platform to orches-
trate and capture data points (e.g., reviews, other users
bought) is a critical enabler to driving engagement and
being able to monetize it.
4 6 2 4
Always accept recommendations
17
25 Sometimes accept recommendations
Never accept recommendations
27 25
17 16
9 2 4 4 10 1 3 3
Ultra High-End Mass Market All shoppers Ultra High-End Mass Market All shoppers
The findings: In response to the comprehensive product The findings: Loyalty to websites and apps diminishes
information provided by many online-only players, cus- with age, underlining the importance of delivering a per-
tomer expectations regarding online product content are sonalized and superior user experience to maintain
evolving. engagement.
• Younger shoppers, in particular, are increasingly seeking • Shoppers aged 55 and above are notably 20 percentage
product videos and in-depth information (e.g., sustain- points less likely to visit the same websites or apps regu-
ability) larly than younger shoppers.
• Additionally, they prioritize rating and reviews, with more • In contrast, a vast majority (86 percent) of individuals
than 40 percent of younger shoppers considering them aged 18 to 34 demonstrate a propensity for regularly
helpful. visiting the same shopping app or website.
4 8
14 Willing to pay +10% or more
18
17 27 Willing to pay up to 10%
32 Expects price parity between
sutainable and traditional products
30 43 Prefers lowest price, regardless of
42 transparency on sustainability
38
18
I do not know / Prefer not to say
31 11
31 25 38
30
19
6 3 8 3 3 4
Exclusively in-store Exclusively online Ultra High-End 18-34 All Shoppers
T
he preceding pages have elucidated the significant
shifting demands facing fashion and luxury players. Mission Embrace data to elevate the
Through strategic prioritization of technologies, they
can achieve the following objectives: #3 business to the next level
CIO mission #1: The rise of ultra-fast fashion players, Potential challenges to watch out
the emphasis on price as a deciding factor, the high inter-
est in high-tech tools among customers, and the reality for:
that out-of-stock equals out-of-revenue have all under-
scored the need for the next gen of core systems. These • High cost of transformation
systems are essential for making businesses agile and
flexible, enabling volatile demand. • Fragmented supply chains and
Enterprise resource planning (ERP) systems, as a stock keeping units
cornerstone, should be robust, highly standardized, modu-
lar, and highly flexible, thus saving cost and enabling core • Integration with other applica-
business transactions. Companies must strategically
decide which functionalities to integrate into their ERP tions
systems versus their broader digital ecosystem, distinguish-
ing between essential capabilities for competitive advan- • Large deviations from standard
tage (right-to-win) and those necessary for basic market
participation (right-to-play).
• Integration ability of lean core in ecosystems • Establishing strategic value drivers that articulate
the commercial rationale for technology investment,
• Modular composability of applications throughout the aligned by leadership upfront
system
• Defining a standardization strategy and trade-offs
• Real-time data exposure and access under the guidance of senior leaders to serve as a guid-
ing principle
• High speed to implement / process template-based
approaches for core processes (levels 1–3) • Planning business and ERP transformation concur-
rently to facilitate robust process redesign and harmoni-
• Clear value generation focus of overall ecosystem as zation
well as added and built-in functionalities
• Implementing an integrated roadmap planning
• Scalability to manage seasonal demand fluctuations approach to proactively manage interdependencies,
risks, and capacity constraints
• Readiness for business model changes at low cost,
without long change lead times • Establishing the right governance structure with
strong execution ability and empowered decision-mak-
• Automation of design-to-store workflow for acceler- ing bodies that bridge processes and geographies, ensur-
ated time-to-market ing alignment and accountability throughout the trans-
formation journey
• Precise inventory tracking enabling seamless stock
sharing across online and in-store channels
• Data-driven decision-making, leveraging CDP data to • Adopt a “mental flip” approach, prioritizing data and
analyze, understand, and predict customer behavior business use cases over technological systems.
• Consistent omnichannel marketing, ensuring unified • Decouple the technological transformation from the crit-
messaging across all channels using CDP data ical path of the overall business digital transformation.
• Real-time engagement, enabling immediate • Free your data from outdated and inflexible legacy core
responses to customer interactions with updated data systems.
• Predictive insights, applying artificial intelligence to • Develop intelligent business products centered around
CDP data to forecast customer needs and personalize crucial business domains that empower frontline work-
future interactions ers and management to make informed decisions.
for:
• Data quality and relevance
• Limited in-store application
• Algorithm bias and fairness
Christian Kirschniak, Managing Director and Partner, Anton Haberler-Koenig, Project Leader, BCG Vienna.
BCG Stuttgart. You may contact him at You may contact him at
Kirschniak.Christian@bcg.com. Haberler-Koenig.Anton@bcg.com
Sebastian Boger, Managing Director and Partner, BCG Florian Burger, Principal, BCG Munich.
Munich. You may contact him at You may contact him at
Boger.Sebastian@bcg.com Burger.Florian@bcg.com
Stefan Trifonov, Partner and Associate Director, DDP in Felix Graeber, Project Leader, BCG Munich.
Fashion & Retail, BCG Munich. You may contact him at You may contact him at
Trifonov.Stefan@bcg.com Graeber.Felix@bcg.com
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was founded in 1963. Today, we work closely with Et eium inum et dolum et et eos ex eum harchic
clients to embrace a transformational approach teceserrum natem in ra nis quia disimi, omnia
aimed at benefiting all stakeholders—empowering veror molorer ionsed quia ese veliquiatius sundae
organizations to grow, build sustainable competitive poreium et et illesci atibeatur aut que consequia
advantage, and drive positive societal impact. autas sum fugit qui aut excepudit, omnia voloratur?
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Our diverse, global teams bring deep industry and voluptaquam, offici bernam atqui dem vel ius nus.
functional expertise and a range of perspectives
that question the status quo and spark change. Nem faccaborest hillamendia doluptae
BCG delivers solutions through leading-edge conseruptate inim volesequid molum quam,
management consulting, technology and design, conseque consedipit hillabo. Imaio evelenditium
and corporate and digital ventures. We work in a haribus, con reictur autemost, vendam am ellania
uniquely collaborative model across the firm and estrundem corepuda derrore mporrumquat.
throughout all levels of the client organization,
fueled by the goal of helping our clients thrive and
enabling them to make the world a better place.
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