Electroculture – Basics

Retranscription and translation of the original french document (Rustica

Magazine # 458 from 20 to 26 September
1978) OK_electriser_le_potager_1978.pdf

The new green wizards

Leeks as big as the arm of a gardener, strawberries as beautiful as oranges,
garlic even four times more beautiful, it’s the giant vegetable garden. The
vegetable garden of electroculture, this queen of gardening with miraculous
methods.
“A bulb of 800 g! This is nothing says Mr. Thévenin. It might happen once.
No, what is needed is not to harvest one but hundreds. You see this square
of 25 sqm, with planted garlic, the harvest will surely be of 100 kg instead of
10 compared to traditional methods.”
We were at the end of june when Mr. Thévenin told me that. End of july, at
the time of harvest, I went back to see him and he wasn’t lying. The garlic
plants lying on the soil sunbathing and drying. They offered bulbs from 900 g
to one kilo. 100 kg of garlic on a vegetable garden of 25 sqm, Mr. Thévenin
had won his bet. 800 g.. The needle of his scale stabilised and announced
800 g. To the left, in the plate a large weight, to the right in the other plate a
bulb of garlic. You read that well! It was clearly a 800 g garlic bulb that Mr.
Thévenin had put on his scale. It was big, five times larger than a normal
garlic bulb.
Electroculture, the fairy of gardening
The author of these incredible results, this fairy of gardening, this gardening
muse is called electroculture.
“So, you know!
- Yes, wires attached to a generator and then we let electrical currents flow
through. It’s not natural…
- No, no…”
No, electroculture and electricity providers have nothing in common. Of
course it is a matter of current, but it is not produced by a powerplant. It is in
the air, in the soil, in us. This free and natural electricity has several aspects:
 The Earth’s magnetic field
The magnetic field converges to the North Pole. Proof of this is the needle of
your compass, it is constantly under its influence and indicates that direction.
 Telluric currents
These are electric currents flowing through the earth. They move from East to
West, but their path varies depending on the arrangement and the layout of
terrestrial layers. According to the physicists, their intensity varies according to
the months of the year. In June they are at their maximum intensity, and at their
minimum in September.
 Cosmic waves
They come from the stratosphere and penetrate the Earth’s crust.
The aim of electroculture is to pick up the electro-magnetic energies for the
benefit of the plants. A vegetable thus grown grows better; its seed
germinates faster; the vegetable grows faster; more easily and becomes
bigger. The vegetable can also defend itself more easily against illnesses and
parasites. It handles more easily periods of drought and rough soils. Indeed,
this energetic influx allows the roots to go deeper into the soil to find their
food and also reach deeper layers of groundwater that are inaccessible to
normally cultivated plants. This energy, is naturally received by all plants:
through the roots (that play a role of antennas) which pick up negative
electricity from the soil and then frees it through its aerial parts (which also
act as antennas). These absorb the positive atmospheric electricity. The
exchange of these forces determines the growth of a plant and the proper
functioning of the chlorophyll system; briefly said, it organises life thanks to
the ascension of sap. Plants cultivated by electroculture hence benefit as
much as possible from these energies which, if not picked up, would just be
wasted. This is the theory of “electrocultivators”, although some ecologists
argue that electroculture diverts these natural beneficial forces for a whole
ensemble for the profit of some privileged plants. I won’t dwell into this
debate, but I believe it is necessary to be aware of these two theories.
Moreover, it appears that electroculture allows foremost to reveal and
produce this healthy energy. As a matter of fact, every single plant is an
electrical conductor of a couple of millivolts (experiment made by connecting
a voltmeter on a bean plant); in the presence of an electroculture setup the
voltages are amplified.
Are you interested by electroculture, are you just discovering it today. You
should know that it exists since a very long time. Ancient civilisations, the
Egyptians in particular, had noticed that around certain structures or rocks,
and depending on orientation, vegetation grew better and was
thicker/sturdier. Researchers looked at this phenomenon and found an
explanation: some rocks are rich in electropositive metals (like copper), the
soil being itself naturally a carrier of negative charges, they thought that at
certain locations there was a natural production of forces beneficial to plants.
So, you want to setup such a system in your vegetable garden. There are
many setups available. All are prototypes (you should be able to find easily
light and simple materials).
 In Rustica (the name of this
magazine..), we showed a couple of years ago some simple setups (see
schematic A).
Nowadays the “Paulin system”, named after its inventor, is the easiest to
setup for an amateur. It consists of a painted metallic antenna (plumbing
pipe), headed by iron spikes, insulated (porcelain insulation recovered on
‘out of order’ electric lines, or simply a plastic bottle or any non-conducting
materials placed at the base of the antenna) and stuck in the ground. A
copper wire connects the antenna to a mesh of galvanized iron (standard
fences..) with a length of 3 to 4 meters, depending on the parcel to cultivate
and of an height of about 20 cm. This mesh is buried a few centimeters deep
to facilitate the use of gardening tools. Then 2 – 3 m away, opposite to this
first mesh, another mesh of the same size is placed, however this mesh is
composed of an electropositive metal, for example copper or brass

. It is neither connected to the other mesh, nor

to the antenna (Schematic B). The whole setup is oriented so as to allow the
passing through of North-South telluric currents.
Another setup (oriented North-South) consists of a straight magnet (do not
use horseshoe magnets) placed underground and connected to a grid of
galvanised iron placed in parallel. The positive pole (North) of the magnet is
directed toward the North (see Schematic C).
For other experiments, you can also use a cage of galvanised iron mesh/grid.
Bury it slightly. At the center of this vertical cylinder you plant an antenna
made of a copper pipe non connected to the grid at all (Schematic D). Crops
sowed or planted on the inside usually have a yield two to three times higher
than traditional crops. I saw at Mr. Thévenins’ place, garlics cultivated with
such a method were about 10cm taller than neighbouring traditionally
cultivated ones.

Wire ‘less’ electroculture

However, the ultimate method of

electroculture will in the future consist of getting rid of antennas, wires, etc.
How you might ask, can we pick up the energies? By building a “natural cell”:
on each side of the field to cultivate we place two bands of compost. One
band is acidic (loaded with positive ions) and consisting of heathland, mash-
iron, fine sand quarry, rock powder, peat, wood ash, coal dust, soot, chicken
manure; the other is alkaline (lacking in positive ions, e.g. negatively
charged) and consisting of tuff, limestone soil, lime, masonry plaster,
manure. By the principle of communicating vessels, the alkaline body
attracts the positive ions of the acidic body. A mini electric current hence
results from this exchange and permeates the crops culture. Hereby
stimulating the vegetation as it flows through (schematic E).
Gigantic vegetables, increased production, reduced irrigation (50 to 70%)
and the economy on manure for an fully organic culture, these are the
benefits of electroculture. This gardening technique from the third millennia,
though born in antiquity has not finished astonishing us. We look forward to
hearing from your experiments.
- Frank Benjamin (Author)
The examples speak
You want to know more about electroculture, write to: C.A.E., 17, rue des
Bouvreuils, 33600 Pessac. Near Bordeaux, on an arid terrain, ungrateful, and
voluntarily never irrigated, without fertilizer or manure, we cultivated barley.
Here are the results:
 harvest on the control plot (no setup): 354g, 149 cobs, average number of
grains per cob: 15,
 harvest on the electroculture plot: 795g, 240 cobs, average number of grains
per cob: 25.
At the beginning of our century, lieutenant Basty did experiments with potatoes
on two plots of 52m².
 harvest on the control plot: 610kg of potatoes,
 harvest on the electroculture plot: 900kg.
Strawberries (culture with antennas) were harvested on May 19th, other in a
traditional culture on the 3rd of June only.
An American, James Lee Scribner obtained, by plunging a bean in
electromagnetic baths, a plant of 7m length. He got 72 liters of beans from
that giant.
In France, a plant of potatoes cultivated in electroculture attained 2m height
and produced more than 4kgs of tubers of prime quality (he received the 1st
prize at the National agricultural competition of Versailles in 1977). This
plant kept on producing while others (normal culture) were already withered
since a long time. In Pithiviers, M.Marcel Thévenin harvested a plant of
tomatoes (in a galvanized iron mesh with antenna system) of more than 2m
height, loaded with very big and delicious fruits.
In Ruwanda (Africa), drought and hunger prevails. Under the drive of Père
Tasse, the villagers using electroculture managed to cultivate tomatoes, mil
and sweet potatoes.
Electroculture – Basics
revisited
After having transcribed the document talking about
electroculture: Electroculture – Basics
I wanted to add some more technical details, because the original document
has a couple of errors; that being said the schematics and setups described
are correct, but the explanations are not completely right and incomplete for
my taste.
Documents talking about electroculture exist in two versions, there are two
types of electroculture, which can both be complementary of each other I
believe:
 Coming from the anglophone world: many documents describe a type of
electroculture that consists, for the most part, in using high voltages generated
by generators (mostly Tesla coils) and which, by various methods are sent into
the soil or in the air around the plants to aid their growth.
 From the francophone world: another type of electroculture is described,
which here is based on the natural properties of some materials to attract the
electrons in the air and in the soil to make them flow better where needed.
These two versions are complementary, in my opinion. But it’s good to know
about these differences because when looking around on internet we easily
end up on documents talking about electroculture, the same subject,
electroculture, but both don’t describe the same methods at all.
The francophone version of electroculture is based on the use of specific
materials arranged in specific ways to reap more benefits from a natural
property of all materials, i.e. the electronegativity of the elements. Some
materials are more electronegative than others, hence by using these
various materials properly one can direct the flow of electrons which are
naturally collected from the surroundings.
The anglophone version is also very interesting, in all documents I read it’s
based on using high voltages generated by Tesla coils, and as explained in
other places on this website, Tesla coils are known to be the best orgone
generators, they generate currents with very high voltages and very low
currents using the principles of resonance. It’s resonance that makes it a
great idea, as i explain it somewhere else on this website about my
understanding of how orgonite works, orgonite seems to work by an effect of
resonance, re-creating electric fields at a pure/perfect frequency. A Tesla coil
generates very high voltages at a high frequency, but more importantly of a
purity that is almost unmatched, i.e. perfectly regular sinusoidal waves. And
as you might already know, I think that these perfectly regular electric fields
are most beneficial to all living things; plants, insects, animals, humans and
probably for what we consider as inanimate. Plants love classical music,
which is also a very clean sound vibration, with perfect harmonics between
different notes. Hence I think that plants also love perfect vibrations of any
other type, here electric. It is a subject I want to talk about at some point in
the future.
Meanwhile, lets get back to electroculture, francophone version, which is
based on the electronegativity of all elements that exist on this planet.
Electronegativity is simply the natural tendency that a material has to attract
electrons, the higher it is the more the material attracts electrons. That’s
what I wanted to correct/explain from the original text from 1978
(Electroculture – Basics), which I noticed while I was re-transcribing it.
Electropositivity does not really exist, it’s a relative measure of
electronegativity, i.e. gold has for example an electronegativity of 2.4 (or
2.54 according to other measures), iron has an electronegativity of 1.83,
hence compared to gold, iron is electropositive because gold attracts
electrons much more than iron does. We can only talk about the
electropositivity of a material with regards to another, it makes no sense to
talk about an electropositive element on its own… No, we can just say that it
is more/less electropositive (or less/more electronegative) compared to
another one.
Hence, technically here’s a periodic table, not very precise, with the
electronegativity of known elements. Chemistry is good in small doses, and
not that hard! However I won’t go into the details about how
electronegativity is determined because it becomes much more complicated!

Here you can see that fluorine (F) on the top right is the most
electronegative element. We shoudl talk about the electronegativity of alloys
and combinations of different elements, because in nature and in our society
we often have things that are not pure, like brass which is a mixture of
copper and zinc, quartz, which is silicate and oxygen etc. all these
combinations also have their own electronegativity, but it becomes much
harder to determine. Hence lets stick to pure materials, and those that are of
interest for electroculture, which I’ll order by decreasing order of
electronegativity:
 Gold (Au): 2.4
 Platinum (Pt): 2.2
 Silver (Ag): 1.93
 Copper (Cu): 1.9
 Iron (Fe): 1.83
 Zinc (Zn): 1.65
 Aluminium (Al): 1.61
That’s enough! Just by looking at those values you can understand why
precious metals are so useful in electronic circuits, because not only are they
excellent conductors of electricity, but also very electronegative (as far as
metals are concerned). However, please do note that a high electronegativity
does not mean a high electrical conductivity, Fluorine is the most
electronegative element, hence also very reactive, since it attracts electrons
very easily it always has a tendency to bond with other elements and hence
is not easily available in its pure form in nature. But fluorine is not an
electrical conductor, since electrical conductivity depends mostly of the fact
that the element has one electron on the outer orbit, or maybe two, but
fluorine has seven…
Anyway, lets get back to electroculture. We now have the electronegativity of
the most common metals, so we can look in details at the setups of
electroculture.Lets look at schematic A which I re-edited for more clarity.
Graphite is a form of carbon, so I used the electronegativity of carbon, 2.55,
it might not be 100% accurate, but even if it were 2.3 or 2, it’s clearly more
than the electronegativity of zinc, which is 1.65. Hence the carbon electrode
attracts more electrons than zinc, which means that the natural flow of
electrons will flow in the copper wire, going from the zinc electrode toward
the graphite electrode. Here electrons are collected from the infinite pool of
electrons which are in the soil! If the electrodes are in contact with the air
they will also clearly collect some electrons from the air. What must be also
clearly understood, why I added red dotted arrows, is that electrons will also
flow through the soil from one electrode toward the other, since the soil is
also an electrical conductor (with varying resistance depending on humidity
and the minerals in it). This setup is clear, it promotes a good flow of
naturally available electrons through the soil and through the air, through the
copper wire.
Now let’s look at schematic B, which I also re-edited.
Just before carrying on, when building your setup, always keep an
eye on the directions north, south, east, west on the various
schematics, on some the north is upward, on some the south is
upward..
Here it must be clearly understood that there are two parts, the antenna and
the grids. The antenna has a tip in a metal that is less electronegative than
the tube. It’s done on purpose, in the original document they explain that we
must use iron wire, but zinc is also suitable. The copper tube is the most
suitable, because it has an electronegativity of 1,9, which makes it easy to
find other metals that are less electronegative for the antenna tip; zinc
(1,65), iron (1,83). The tip of the antenna is less electronegative than the
tube, hence electrons will naturally flow toward the tube. The purpose of the
antenna is to collect electrons from the air. Then you must also remember
that in this installation, the antenna is insulated from the soil! It’s very
important, there shouldn’t be any electrical conduction between the base of
the antenna and the ground. Else like a lightning rod, the excess of electrons
will go straight to the ground. This is not what we want, we want to collect
the electrons in the air and send them to the galvanised iron mesh first!
You will also notice that when we connect the copper tube with a standard
electric cable (in copper) to the galvanised iron mesh in the soil, the copper
has an electronegativity of 1,9 and iron only 1,83. Hence you would think
that electrons will go from the grid toward the copper tube since it has a
higher electronegativity, the copper tube should attract electrons more than
the iron mesh… But, it’s not the case, because we shouldn’t forget that
electrical currents always want to go to the ground, lightning hits the ground,
we insulate our houses with ground rods. It’s a bit of a paradox, earth is as
much of a large supplier of electrons as an attractor of electrons. It’s because
the ground always attracts electrons, that it’s full of charges.. And anyway,
that being said, there are loads of free electrons anywhere around us!
Hence here, the electrons accumulated from the air in the antenna are
transferred to the iron grid, because this grid is connected to the soil, thus
electrons will naturally want to go in that direction, electronegativity is not a
factor of importance for this transfer of energies from antenna to the ground
grid. Then we have an antenna that provides electrons to this iron mesh and
these electrons arrive in the iron mesh and will diffuse into the soil, the
electrons will first go from the antenna through the grid because iron is a
better conductor than the soil (it has less resistance). this is where the other
opposite mesh will play its role, since it’s once again copper, or any other
metal more electronegative than iron, the electrons going through the iron
mesh will have a slight tendency to be attracted in the direction of the
opposed mesh before dispersing anyway in the end…
From an electrical point of view it’s obvious, electrons always take the path
of least resistance; hence they arrive in the iron mesh and then into the
ground, but since on another side there is a copper mesh, slightly more
electronegative, this will naturally induce a path of slight less resistance in
the direction of the copper mesh (because added to the soil resistance there
is also the copper attraction..)
Another important point that must be observed is that the meshes should be
placed east and west, because we want to leave the north-south path free
for the natural magnetic field of the earth.
Now I’m talking from my own understanding of the subject, why must we
have the direction of electrons flow from east to west? And not west east? If
we take into account the rotation of the planet, if we could leave and object
in the air without it being affected by the gravity of the planet, and also not
the inertia etc. As the earth rotates, this object would be somewhere else on
the planet without having to be moved. By making electrons flow from east
to west, the earth rotates in the opposite direction, hence this promotes in a
minimal fashion an easier flow for the electrons from east to west instead of
the opposite. Also, given the fact that electrons are so light, they are not
affected by gravity like normal objects. But it becomes hard to talk about
these subjects, because we have go into the topic of relativity..
Furthermore, there is also another interesting aspect that seems to me
important to take into account, and electromagnetic wave is composed, as
its name indicates, of a magnetic field and an electric field.

A light particle (shown here as the green dot), going to the right, with the
electric and magnetic fields shown here above. If we take into account that
the natural magnetic fields going north to south and the electric fields going
from east to west sort of encourage electromagnetic waves to superpose on
these same electric and magnetic fields, we can induce that the installation
above helps light particles to go toward the soil. The natural telluric currents
and magnetic fields are in these directions anyway. This electroculture setup
fosters the penetration of the light into the soil.. If that makes any sense,
that’s how I understand it. We shouldn’t forget that what we see is just but a
tiny part of the electromagnetic spectrum, many other waves at other
frequencies invisible to our eyes can be guided toward the soil, from my
point of view cosmic waves are also electromagnetic waves.
Lets go to schematic C, also re-edited.
This setup, instead of promoting the natural flow of electrons, amplifies the
strength of the natural magnetic field. Don’t forget while looking at the
image, that the needle of a compass pointing to the magnetic north means
that what we consider as the north is in fact a magnetic south pole, it’s a
convention that is not always evident, still logical though! This setup does
not need to be explained more than that, because here it’s not about the
electronegativity of metals, this should more be called magnetoculture… The
magnet simply amplifies the natural alignment of electrons inside the iron
mesh, which is a ferromagnetic materiel and hence electrons can keep their
alignment more or less permanently. Here we can’t use a copper grid or any
other non ferromagnetic metal, a ferromagnetic metal is absolutely needed.
Here we amplify the natural magnetic field of the planet while not disturbing
the telluric (east-west) currents.
Schematic D now.
This setup is clearly the most simple to put in palce, in a flower pot, around
any plant in the garden. But it is in my opinion slightly less efficient than
method B or C. Also if we orient setup A correctly, the setup A, I think, is also
more efficient than this one.
However, this one is still the easiest and it’s still much better than nothing, it
will bring great benefits in any case. The negative point I see here is that the
natural flow of electrons in the soil will be multidirectional and hence it’s not
on ly in the direction of natural telluric currents. Nonetheless this setup still
clearly amplifies the electron flow in the soil and above soil. The antenna is
the same as in setup B, with a tip made of a metal that has an inferior
electronegativity than the copper tube, thus it attracts electrons from the air,
to the tube and to the soil. But here the antenna is directly planted into the
soil. Here again we can see it in two parts like, setup B, that are somewhat
independent of each other, but still related!
The antenna is directly planted in the ground and hence the electrons
collected from the air naturally go to the path of least resistance, the soil.
Then the surrounding grid, in galvanised iron mesh, with an electronegativity
lower than copper, will, I believe, collect electrons from the soil and also
those from the antenna and then again there will be an electron flow going
from the mesh to the antenna. And so on the cycle continues, they go back
in the antennas, are re-diffused into the soil, partly re-collected by the mesh,
etc.
This setup, as I understand, helps naturally collected electrons to flow in a
sort of ‘closed loop’ in the same space much longer than they would
otherwise without any setup. Which allows the plants to have more time to
collect more abundant electrons, which have a tendency to re-circulate in the
same place over and over.
Finally there is schematic E, which to me, like to the editors of the Rustica
magazine, is the ultimate setup, because here we really play with what’s in
nature and the surroundings and nothing else.

The explanation in the article is fully correct, the only thing that is missing to
this schematic is that, I think, these compost bands should be oriented east-
west, not north-south, south-north; to amplify the natural telluric currents
and not disturb earths’ natural magnetic field.

To end the subject, while writing this I thought about a small detail, cosmic
waves! from what I learned in astrophysics, this waves can all be considered
like light (or electromagnetic waves). Hence, if I’m not wrong with my
understanding, the various electroculture setups, allow, by amplifying the
natural telluric currents or magnetic field, not only these natural fields to flow
more easily but also to let cosmic waves penetrate the soil more easily.
Growing outdoors
tomatoes succesfully in
the north
I’d like to share what I’ve learned about tomatoes growing in my region
(Lorraine, France), so that everyone can enjoy it, it seems important to me
because I’ve never found a condensed summary, like I’m about to share, in
any book or on any internet page.
Firstly, for those who know me, I always look for the best way to do things
while working as little as possible (in the long term) and allow plants to grow
naturally as they wish. So I won’t in no way talk about cutting suckers,
watering or using any treatment on the plants. I’m simply trying to offer the
best environment to the plants, so that they are happy; plants in good health
will be plants that bring good results for us as well, it’s as simple as that.
Also one other important information, setting up what I’m describing might
take some time, but in the long term it will be much better for us and for the
tomato plants; it’s really worth it.
The first and most evident thing is, to have a south exposure as much as
possible, to benefit the most from the little amounts of sun we can have in
northern regions!

On this schematic, the circle indicates the suns’ position rising in the east
and setting in the west. The south exposition must be as good as possible
because we’re going to wall off the northern side, we’ll basically plant
tomatoes in front of a wall or a big pile of stones. The point is to just have as
many stones as possible on the northern side, because these stones will first
of all protect the tomatoes from strong winds that most often come from the
north or north-west and they will act as a slow diffusion heater, exposed to
the sun most of the time, the wall or stones will collect heat and release it
slowly when sun is lacking and during the night.
Don’t hesitate to make it tall, a 2 m tall wall is a good size! There is no sun
coming from the northern side, so we might as well have as many stones as
possible to collect heat. It is also useful to add stones all around the
tomatoes, they will all collect/release heat and under the stones, humidity
will be retained for longer periods.
The second, and very important point; tomatoes love water but they don’t
like being wet! That’s generally the biggest problem in northern regions,
excess rain causing blight, which I personally think of as the cold of
tomatoes. From my own observations I discovered that the problem is not
rain itself, it’s that in the north, when it rains it usually means that a low-
pressure system is arriving and temperatures are going to drop, which in turn
will prevent the tomato plant leaves from drying up quickly. Whereas in
southern regions, when it rains, the temperatures remain the same and the
water on the leaves will evaporate almost as quickly as it fell. And that’s the
most important aspect to understand, it’s as if a human in the north stayed
outside by 30°C under heavy rain and then staying the rest of the day wet
because the temperatures dropped to 20°C afterwards, a perfect way to
catch a cold. Whereas in southern regions you are otuside, get soaked by a
heavy rain, but the temperatures remain as high and one hour later you’re
dry again as if nothing happened!
Thus, it is an absolute necessity in northern regions to have a roof on top of
your tomato plants! That way, the leaves won’t ever become too wet, with
the wall on the northern side you can simply attach the roof at a height of
about 2 m. But since we have a lot of rain in the north, we might as well use
it well, tomatoes love water, there are two ways to do it easily. If like me you
have a chance to put your tomatoes in a place with a heavy clay soil where
water is always plentiful 10-20 cm below, you don’t have to do much, just be
sure that the bottom of the plant is not soaked in water (by planting it high
enough), but making sure that the roots can go deeper by themselves to
collect the water they need. If you have a sandy soil, or a soil that dries up
quickly, then the best is to put a gutter on the roof to direct rain water
straight into the soil aroudn the tomatoes feet.
I said it earlier, in no way are we going to remove the suckers, a name very
badly chosen if you want my opinion, because these suckers will grow into
branches that will give more tomatoes if the plant is robust, many more
tomatoes! The additional leaves will not prevent tomatoes from growing well,
on the contrary, these leaves will collect more sunlight to be able to grow
more tomatoes at the same time. A tomato plant that grows well and healthy
without ever being trimmed can easily produce 10 times more tomatoes than
one on which all suckers are removed. Here we have to set up cages, a prop
is useless, we have to support the tomato plant from the outside with a grid
around it on which all branches will be able to lie instead of attaching the
central stem. The easiest method is a round grid cage made with grid of
about 2 m length (about 20 x 20 cm mesh), which is rolled on itself, making
a grid tube of about 60 cm diameter. A tomato plant growing freely becomes
a big bush!
Example, with a wall facing south:
The roof is drawn in brown, the gutter in red, with a drop by drop irrigation
system (still with a good flow) to direct rainwater directly around the
tomatoes cages when it rains. That’s about it, just put one tomato plant in
the middle of each cage and you’re set. In these conditions, tomatoes will
have enough heat, they will be protected from the rain and will be naturally
watered at their base without making their leaves excessively wet when it
rains. You can also (I recommend it) add a big layer of mulch/straw etc.
around the tomatoes to keep the soil humid for longer periods when it is dry.
With these cages you can also easily use a method of electroculture by
adding a copper pipe as central prop, using the method described in
schematic B on this page: Electroculture – Basics

But don’t forget that you shouldn’t connect the grid from the bottom with the
grid on top in this case, you just need this grid of galvanised iron mesh
around the base, wit ha grid of around 30-40 cm height halfway buried into
the ground. Here’s a schematic below to show what I think is the best to do
for the cage.

The support poles don’t need to be made of wood, but they must be in a
material that is an electrical insulator, hence no metal: wood or plastic is the
most practical.
Then, grid 1 is the one used for the electroculture method, I didn’t draw the
central copper antenna, but it obviously needs to be there. The grid 1 is in
galvanized iron. Then grid 2 is placed a bit higher, not connected to the
bottom one and it has a larger mesh (~ 20 x 20 cm), because this is where
the tomato branches will have to go past the grid when they grow and use it
as support. Then I still recommend to not connect grid 2 to grid 1, and grid 3
to grid 2 etc. for higher up grids. Because there is a small voltage potential
difference between the ground and any metallic thing that is higher up in the
air not electrically grounded. The higher the grid is, the larger of a voltage
difference there is. I’m talking here about differences that can be measured
in 0,1 V etc. But for a plant these are huge differences of potentials!
This cage system is useful in any region, not just for northern ones…
The following page is sadly only in french, tomate en cage it provides
informations about misconceptions people have about growing tomatoes
which are completely wrong!
Here’s a small summary of the most important points:
 Letting suckers grow does not mean that tomatoes will be smaller, if the plant
is growing freely there will be many more tomatoes on one plant and all of the
 same size, if you had cut all the suckers you’d get the same size tomatoes but in
a much smaller quantity.
 Tomatoes don’t need to be exposed to the sun to grow, on the contrary it
burns them! Leaves need to be exposed to the sun to collect the energy to grow
the tomatoes that are protected by the leaves from excessive sunlight.
 Letting suckers grow won’t delay the growth of the first tomatoes, they will
grow at the same speed and additional ones will grow on the new branches,
once the suckers have developed into full grown branches.
I forgot to specify that this method of growing tomatoes in cages is much
more useful for indeterminate varieties (that grow indefinitely) than
determinate ones (that stay quite short), on the other hand, the wall and the
roof, that’s good for any variety of tomatoes in any northern region!
That’s it folks, it will take a bit of time to set up such an installation, but it’s
really worth it in the long term to have nice and healthy tomato plants, that
do not require much care and provide us with plenty of tomatoes!

Basic rules to make

orgonites
An orgonite is composed of resin, metal shavings and a tiny bit of quartz.
The ground rules to make a functional orgonite are quite simple:
 A mix of about 50% resin, 50% metal shavings
 Any metal is good
 And add a small bit of quartz in the mix
50% resin, 50% metal mix
The ratio of 50% resin, 50% metal is easy to adhere to just by comparing the
volumes of resin and metal shavings. It is the simplest thing in the world. Do
it by volume, because with aluminium for example, ’1L’ of aluminium
shavings in volume will generally be much lighter (in weight) than 1L of
resin.
You can find more information about the types of resin on the following
page: Types of resin
Metal
Any metal will do the job: steel, iron, aluminium, copper, silver, gold, brass
etc. Aluminium is generally the most used because it is the cheapest and
most easy to find. One thing to note is that the shape of the metal shavings
can have a subtle influence on the energy of the orgonites, no matter what
these subtleties are, the orgonite will be functional in any case if you respect
the basic rules.
You can find more information about metals on the following page: Metals for
orgonite
Quartz
Quartz are minerals that all have the same basic composition, silicon dioxide,
also named silica (SiO2). Quartz is the most abundant mineral on earth, you
can find it in many places in nature, rock crystal, river quartz, beautiful
double or single terminated quartz; any of these is perfect to be used in an
orgonite, you don’t really need to buy quartz, it’s quite easy to find in nature.
You can find more information about quartz and stones on the following
page: Quartz/Stones

Types of resin
The common point between all types of resins or other ‘binding agents’ used
to make orgonites is the presence of long chains of carbon, polymers. All the
following materials can be used to make orgonites.
Synthetic resins
 Polyester resin: also called fibreglass in many countries, this resin is produced
by a reaction between organic acids and alcohol. The resin is composed of
unsaturated polyesters and most often styrenes which reduce the vicosity of the
resin. In the non-catalysed form, the resin is liquid/viscous, a catalyst must be
added to start an exothermic (heat generation) reaction which will form the free
radicals on the unsaturated links and hence allow the resin to solidify. The
required catalyst percentage is usually around 1% at room temperature, with
the best temperature to work with these resins usually around 20°C.
 Epoxy resin: which (like polyester resin) is also called fibreglass in many
countries is a resin composed of monomers (or short polymers) with an epoxide
at one or each end(s) which must then also be mixed with a catalyst to start-up
the reaction that will allow the resin to harden. Thanks to its chemical structure,
the polymers are much more interlinked than with polyester, this makes hard
epoxy much more resistant to shocks and various corrosions in comparison with
polyester resin. This resin is also liquid in its non-solidified state, the quantity of
catalyst required to make the resin solid depends on the type of the epoxy and
on the ambient temperature, in general it is between 20% and 50%.
Natural resins
These resins, compared to synthetic resins do not require any catalyst, but
the drawback is that these resin cannot harden to become a completely solid
plastic. To make orgonites with these resins, one must usually just heat up
the resin to make it liquid enough and then mix the metal shavings and
quartz and then let it cool down again. These resins will all melt at some
temperature, it depends on the resin. That’s why it is best to cast orgonites
with natural resins inside some kind of a container to be sure that when the
temperature increases the orgonite won’t melt, for example when placed in
full sunlight.
There are many types of natural resins:
 Pine tree resin
 Dammar resin
 Acacia resin
 Amber
 Spruce resin
 etc.
These resins can be extracted from almost all trees and plants.
Other
Another ‘binding agent’ that can be used to make orgonites is caramel, it
requires a bit of practice to become skilled at heating up the sugar to the
right temperature, to keep it in a caramel state while mixing the metal
shavings and quartz, without letting the caramel burn and blacken. Like
natural resins, the only inconvenient with caramel is that such an orgonite
won’t ever be solid either, if exposed to direct sunlight (or high
temperatures) the orgonite is sure to melt too. Thus, as with natural resins, it
is best to cast these orgonites inside a container. Glass/plastic jars are the
best.
There are other binding agents being discussed on internet to be used for the
fabrication of orgonites, but I won’t be able to guarantee anything about
these methods, or if they are useful to make functional orgonites. One of the
discussed products is bees wax. These waxes are composed of long chains of
carbons, but there are still many negative feedbacks indicating that bees
wax is not perfect to make orgonites. In my opinion this might be due to the
fact that bees wax are greasy/oily, whereas all other binding agents that
work are usually very sticky and not greasy at all? Maybe the grease
prevents the metal and quartz from binding properly with the wax.. Another
subject on internet is plasterite and in my opinion this is a completely bogus
idea, maybe due to the fact that plaster is much cheaper than resin, hence
some people try to promote it? Basically plaster is used instead of resin,
according to all that is said above, there is no way for this method to work,
because plaster is not composed of polymers (long chains of carbon), all
other working binding agents are composed of polymers, plaster is mainly
composed of calcium sulphate.

Metals for orgonite

If you are looking for metal shavings for your orgonite creations, you can find
them here: Orgonite making supplies
The main thing to always remember is that all metals are good to make
orgonites.
There are all sorts of questions that people ask about metals, like some of
the following examples:
 I have a mechanic friend who manufactures mechanical parts and therefore a
lot of milling. He can provide me with various sorts of metals, is it better?
 I would like to know if iron shavings can be used to make orgonite?
 I observed in many videos, that many layers for different metals were used,
what are these different metals? Is it necessary to use many different metals?
 Can I use small aluminium wrap pellets?
 I have many screws lying around, can I use them? They are made of steel, is
it good? Same question for the bolts which are made of galvanized steel, is it
also good?
 Cans of cola and various similar drinks with writings on them, can I use them?
Are the writings on the metal appropriate?
 I saw orgonites with washers that looked like aluminium, but were in fact
steel, can I use them? they look like aluminium…
These are just examples of all sorts of questions that are asked by all sorts of
people, the general answer is very simple. All metals are good, all shapes are
suitable. But there are small details that are important to know.
An orgonite will always be more or less functional, no matter what metal
type is used and no matter what shaving shapes are used, but these
differences will have subtle influences on the energy of the orgonite. Very
sensitive people will feel a difference, depending on the metal used, the
shape of the metal pieces (even writings on the orgonite), however, on the
overall anything is good. Evidently I won’t recommend you to write
something like ‘I hate the world’ on a orgonite! I don’t even like having that
written on this page. Just to say that if you have pieces of metals with parts
of letters or sentences, that’s not very bad, sine there are no clear intentions
associated with randomly placed letters it won’t matter. Writing messages of
love, peace etc. on orgonites (or on metals embedded inside) will also clearly
impact the subtle vibration of the orgonite (the work of Masaru Emoto on
frozen water crystals clearly shows these subtle influences), with gratitude,
love and compassion being the most energetic words that exist.
As explained on this page: Basic rules to make orgonites the most important
is just to respect the basic rule: 50% resin, 50% metal and a bit of quartz,
you cannot go wrong! That way you are sure to have an orgonite that works,
because it’s this mix (50% organic, 50% inorganic) that creates the effect of
the orgonite with the added quartz evidently, any metal can be used..
The common choice of aluminium is just due to the large availability of
aluminium and that this metal is the cheapest of all, moreover aluminium is
also very light (making lighter orgonites than (lets say) if they were made
with lead for the same volume of metal). Another useful aspect of aluminium
is that it does not rust.
Nonetheless there are some technical details which are useful to know.
Powdered metals
It is preferable to not use too much dust/powder, it is not bad in itself, but
while pouring the resin with the powdered metal, the powder will tend to sink
and accumulate at the bottom of the container, hence the mix metal/resin
wont be very good, you might end up with an orgonite that is really cut in
two parts, one part just with resin and the other densely filled with powdered
metal. The mix 50/50 must be more or less homogeneous, with bits of metals
evenly distributed throughout the whole of the resin. If you pour an orgonite
with metal dust it is best to do it in not to thick layers, hence avoiding the
build-up of all the metal at the bottom of the mould/container.
Greasy metals
Another point to be aware of, is when you only have greasy metal shavings
at your disposal (this is due to the way the metals are cut, precision
milling/drilling/cutting often requires grease to prevent overheating). Greasy
metals and shavings can be used to make orgonite, but with some resins
there is a chemcial reaction that will tend to whiten the resin while it
hardens, nothing bad but it’s just an visual issue, it could also cause the
formation of bubbles on top the the resin while it hardens. None of these are
important problems, the resulting orgonites are still 100% good, they might
just not look very nice. To avoid these aesthetic issues, you can clean the
shavings, simple soapy water or with dish washing soap will do the trick, just
clean as much as possible and then let it dry. You might probably need to
clean the shavings more than once to really remove most of the grease/oil.
Scrap aluminium from window makers
These aluminium shavings will often contain small bits of plastic (often
black), they are polyamides. As long as more than approx. 80% of the
shavings mix is composed of aluminium, you are good to go, this mix can be
used (this is actually what I use). If you have too many bits of plastic, it’s
best to filter the shavings to remove some of these plastic bits, you need
metal shavings mostly, not plastic shavings.. 10-20% of polyamides is fine,
above is starting to be too much, the rule for making orgonites is a mix of
resin and metal, not a mix of resin and plastic! Basically the 50% metal /
50% resin can also be seen as 50% inorganic / 50% organic, if you have tons
of plastic shavings the mix will become more organic(plastic/resin) and less
inorganic(metal).
Other
Answering any other questions about more subtle aspects is not an easy
task! Don’t take my words as 100% truth, I might be wrong in many aspects,
what follows is just my own understanding, there are no ‘objective’ machines
to properly detect orgone, I rely on perceived human experiences/feelings
and my own understanding based on known topics.
For example, no one really knows exactly what the effects of the polyamides
in the metal shavings are. Based on observations from friends and some
sensitive people it seems to slightly amplify the strength of an orgonite.
Mostly by somehow making it more ‘reactive’ to the external environment.
By that, I mean that such orgonites seem to ‘react’ to surrounding changes
more quickly, for example if a person becomes angry near such orgonites,
the angriness might actually be amplified by the orgonite, kind of in a way to
over-exaggerate the obvious so as to make the person aware of his/her
behaviour. Apparently orgonites with polyamides are orgonites that force us
to become more aware of our states of mind, because they amplify our
‘mental/psychic’ flaws more quickly, be they good or bad. All orgonites I
make contain small amounts of polyamides (I get my aluminium shavings
from window makers..).
One way to make these orgonites more ‘easy to live with’ is to add rose
quartz for the heart chakra, hence it kind of adds a subtle layer of heart (and
unconditional love) energies whenever any emotional state is amplified.
That’s also why I add a small amount of wood shavings, they also seem to
centre the orgonites energies on the heart chakra.
Shape/size of metal shavings/bits
The shape and size of the metal (metals) s not that important, an orgonite
will always work, no matter what size and shape of metal is used. However a
good mix of shavings of many slightly different sizes and shapes will
probably make a more effective orgonite, because the size of the metals, in
physical terms influences the wavelengths that can be received/transmitted.
If there is only metal dust, this will allow only very high frequencies EMF to
be picked up, whereas if larger sizes are also present this will pick up other
lower frequencies etc. We can compare that with the bandwidth of speakers
which can play low frequencies (bass), mid frequencies and high frequencies,
orgonite is somewhat similar, depending on the diversity of the size of the
metal shavings, the orgonite should be able to pick up and emit different
frequencies or if you restrict it to a specific size of shavings to be quiet
precisely set on a specific frequency. That’s why i believe it is good to mix up
different shaving sizes and have the most random sizes of shavings in an
orgonite, powder of 1mm up to pieces of some centimetres in length. Some
sensitive people people told me that they felt that orgonites with more
powdered metal seemed to be more active on the upper chakras (the ones
known to have higher vibrational frequencies) and orgonites with larger and
longer shavings seem to be more active on lower chakras (with lower
vibrational frequencies).
This seems to make sense with my own understanding (I might be
completely wrong as well..). Back to this idea, if you compare that with a
rainbow it makes sense to say that upper chakras vibrate a higher
frequencies and lower chakras at lower frequencies
Seen from a physics point of view, it is known that red has a wavelength of
around 700 nanometres and violet around 400 nanometres. Said otherwise it
also means that red which is on one side of the rainbow has the lowest
frequency and violet on the opposite side has the highest frequency. Just
another observation, chakras follow the order of the colours of a rainbow and
are placed in the right order. The root chakra (1st), red, is the lowest,
corresponding to the lowest visible frequency (red..), then orange, which is
the colour of the second (sacral) chakra, then yellow, the solar plexus
chakra, then green the heart chakra, then cyan blue the throat chakra, then
blue/indigo, the 3rd eye chakra and then violet, the crown chakra. The
colours used to describe the chakras are not always exactly the same, but on
the overall they follow that order quite well. hence comparing chakras to the
frequency of light for different colours, chakras are in the correct order and
represented by the appropriate colour. Red is the visible colour with the
lowest frequency and it fits with the lowest (root) chakra, then the second
chakra (orange) is a bit higher and orange in terms of light frequency is
indeed higher that red, yellow has a frequency higher than orange and it
represents the chakra above the orange chakra, etc.
I don’t think chakra colours were chosen randomly at all!
Back to metal shavings. It thus seems that an orgonite with powdered metal
will be more active on the higher chakras (higher frequency, shorter
wavelength) and that an orgonite with big shavings will be more active on
the lower chakras (lower frequency, longer wavelength).
We can even look at it very precisely, a piece of metal of 1mm in length will
be able to pick up /emit electromagnetic frequencies at 75 GHz and above. A
piece of metal of 1cm will be able to pick up / emit frequencies from 7.5 GHz
and above. 3cm will be able to pick up /emit 2.5 GHz and above. That said,
we must however also look at another phenomena, the size of metal
shavings cannot be the only thing that determines which electromagnetic
frequencies an orgonite can affect, because it is also accepted that an
orgonite transmutes the negative ‘radiations’ of common electricity and that
one has a frequency of 50/60hz, in terms of metals to pick up that
wavelength we would need pieces of metal that are longer than 1500km…
There is another phenomena to take into account, electric induction, an
alternative current flowing in one metallic wire will induce another current at
the same frequency in any nearby metal.
For the moment I cannot talk more about that subject, I need to make more
research! It just seems that orgonites with powdered metals seem to affect
higher chakras and orgonites with larger bits seem to affect lower chakras.
That’s why I think it is good to have a mix with small, medium, long pieces all
approximately well mixed, so that the orgonite is effective on approximately
all chakras, I would tend to think that this also somehow centres it on the
middle, which is the most important, the heart chakra!
Many layers of different metals
This is again another way to change the subtle influences of the orgonite, for
example by using copper, silver and gold. Some metals are ‘precious’
because of their value (money), however the fact that they are precious in
my opinion has nothing to do with how much money it is worth, it goes
beyond that. For example silver, it is an historical fact that people used to
feed babies with silver spoons, or people would throw silver coins inside
fountains (to make wishes, or so we are told to believe). Now some traditions
remain but no one really questions why it is so? Silver, is a fantastic metal to
prevent bacterial infections and accelerate healing. That’s why colloidal
silver is often used to heal people with severe burns. That’s why I believe it
was also a custom to feed babies with silver spoons, by licking the spoons
babies ingest tiny amounts of colloidal silver which protects them from
bacterial infections (If you have the means I would highly recommend
feeding babies with silver utensils). As for fountains and wishes, silver again
keeps the water free from bacterial infections, I don’t believe it originally had
anything to do with wishes, but it had more to do with keeping water
drinkable and free from diseases. Other precious metals; copper, gold,
platinum also have similar properties to a lesser extend, silver is just the best
against bacterial infections. Thinking about the custom of taking out silver
dishes for important occasions, I don’t believe it was to show off once again,
but more to promote the good health of the people eating at the table.
Metals all have their own specific properties, some that are quite well known
and other non-physical/alchemical properties that cannot be easily proven.
Thus embedding different types of precious metals in orgonite is, I believe, a
very good thing to do, as each metal (and even each stone) brings in their
own set of subtle effects to the orgonite. That’s also why alloys or galvanized
(zinc) metals can only be good to be included inside orgonites, all these
metals have their own subtle properties.
Sharp/spiky metals (screws, needles, etc.)
I often read and heard feedback about orgonites made with small metallic
needles or with mixes of sharp and straight screws etc. And that it seemed
that the orgone coming out of such orgonites was not very nice for very
sensitive people. I cannot explain that precisely (no one really has tried to
explain it anyway). According to my own understanding about the flow of
energies or just liquids, for example water, I can make an analogy to try and
explain why such pointy/sharp metals do not create a very nice orgone.
Imagine that you force water to flow in a pipe (not a funnel!), but a pipe
which slowly shrinks and shrinks to end up having a needle sized opening on
one end, if you force water to flow fast inside such a pipe it won’t flow well,
because the needle sized opening will not let water go through seamlessly
and effortlessly. The water will be pushed and put under quite a high
pressure to flow quickly through such a pipe. Now compare that to a water
stream in a mountain, the stream bed is more like a swirling pipe going in
random directions, with well rounded curves and well opened sides where
the water can overflow if needed, that’s how water flows at it’s best, nothing
prevents the water from flowing the way water wants to flow naturally! Water
likes flowing that way, it energises the water so well, it’s not a secret why
water tastes so good in mountain streams.
Well, compared to that, I believe orgone and even other energies also like to
flow in curved paths, well open paths that do not restrict the movement or
force the energies to go in specific directions when it is not naturally going
into that direction. That’s why I think needle shaped and sharp straight metal
bits do not make orgonites with nice energies, because orgone cannot flow
the way it wants to flow. It is generally accepted that the best shavings for
orgonites, are more or less curved shavings, with random swirls etc. It is no
mystery to me that this indeed makes orgonites with nice energies for
sensitive people.
Writings in/on the metal
I already quickly covered the topic above, each word has an associated
vibration, there are small experiments that can prove the effects of words
energetically speaking. Look on internet if you know, there’s a famous
experiment with rice; 2-3 bowls of rice are placed on pieces of paper with
different words written on it, usually one paper inscribed with ‘love’, the
other with ‘hate’. The rice placed on the paper with ‘love’ written on into will
almost not rot, while the one with ‘hate’ will rot quickly and also stink much
more.. As I said above, there are also the experiments of Masaru Emoto with
microscopic photos of frozen water crystals, which have been exposed to
various things, like classical music, rock music, loving inscriptions,
inscriptions of hatred, water from cities and water from mountain springs
etc.The common result is that all waters exposed to ‘loving’
environments/situations form beautiful crystals, whereas polluted waters,
water exposed to heavy metal, water placed on paper with hate inscriptions
all form very ugly/mis-formed crystals. The language used for words doesn’t
even matter.
Hence based on that it is evident that writing ‘I hate you’ on an orgonite will
have a negative impact on the quality of the orgone generated by the
orgonite (who is his/her right mind would write that on an orgonite anyway..).
If you have time I encourage you to write beautiful words on your orgonites,
my personal preference being the combination of the three words: love,
gratitude and compassion. But there are plenty of other words that are very
nice as well, if you’re a poet, have fun! Back to metals, if the metal has
complete words which are ‘negative’, it’s best to avoid them, but having
random bits with parts of words, or parts of a text, or random colours is not
bad I believe. As long as no negative meaning can be understood from these
random letters and words I think there’s no problem in using them.
If you have any other questions feel free to contact me, I’ll do my best to try
and answer them.

Quartz/Stones
 General information about quartz/stones
 Size/Dimension of the stones
 Direction/Orientation of the stones
General information about quartz/stones
The choice of stones to use in an orgonite is almost infinite, each stone has
its own properties, it is impossible to describe quickly all the stones that
exist, let alone all their properties, there’s still room for years and years of
discovery.
I will concentrate on quartz, which is the one and only stone that is required
in all orgonites, without quartz an orgonite would not work. Firstly, one thing
to be aware of is that many known stones are a type of quartz: amethyst,
ametrine, aventurine, blue quartz, rose quartz, citrine, tiger’s eye, agate,
carnelian, onyx, jasper, etc. There are so many varieties of stones that are
classified as a type quartz that I won’t ever be able to list them all.
Technically, quartz is subdivided in two main categories, crystalline quartz
and cryptocrystalline quartz. They are differentiated by the way they form in
nature which can be roughly described as follows:
 Crystalline quartz (macrocrystalline) form by the addition of molecules on the
surface of the crystal, layer by layer, in a mixture of colloidal water with very low
concentrations of silicate
 Cryptocrystalline quartz form from a mixture of colloidal water with high
concentrations of silicate
This is just a rough description, because there are hundreds of exceptions to
this rule, overall this classification is quite correct. One must also note that
this is a modern classification, originally a third category (microcrystalline)
used to exist, which is now more or less included into the cryptocrystalline
category.
This difference in the process of formation of the quartz is also what gives
rise to the most evident differences between both types, macrocrystalline
quartz are usually more transparent/translucent, whereas cryptocrystalline
quartz are more translucent/opaque. Their visual aspect is also different,
macrocrystalline quartz are more ‘shiny’, whereas the cryptocrystalline
variety is more dull/matt. One other useful detail to know is that
macrocrystalline quartz all have almost exactly the same hardness (7 on the
Mohs scale), this is due to the way they build up, almost without any
impurities other than silicate (max ~0.5%), whereas cryptocrystalline quartz
can contain up to 20% of impurities other than silicate.
There are still many technical things that can be said on the subject, for
example, macrocrystalline quartz can almost not form in water with a high
concentration of silicate and always require electrolytes in water to be able
to form, whereas cryptocrystalline quartz cannot form when electrolytes are
present in water or if there is no water. There are tons of other little details
that are yet unknown, I’ll leave that to the experts, because there are so
many factors to account for. The descriptions above are not 100% accurate
either, it’s just a rough guide..
I explained all that to say that any form of quartz you can find in nature is
perfect for use in an orgonite, it doesn’t need to be pretty, or well cut, it just
has to be quartz! Almost all quartz that are found in nature (above ground)
or that you can buy always have ‘shiny’ attributes and hence are
macrocrystalline. Aroudn nature, in europe, quartz can generally be white,
grey, slightly transparent or a big red/orange (which is due to iron/copper
impurities). There are all sorts of otehr colour variations that you could end
up finding, all are good for an orgonite. What changes the colourare the
impurities, which are not pure silicate, for example amethyst is quartz with
iron, if there is too much iron the amethyst will even look more like iron ore
than amethyst. Citrine is also another type of quartz which is yellow because
it has iron oxide, citrine is actually quite rare, amethyst heavily heated can
look like citrine because the iron will turn from violet to yellow under
excessive heat. Rose quartz is rose because of the presence of manganese
and titanium, aventurine (also a type of quartz) is green because it contains
fuchsite, which is itself a type of silicate with aluminium, potassium and
other elements, which classified as a type of mica…
Once again I won’t go too much into details, because I simply don’t know
them, there is so much to learn about stones and how they form and what
they contain, I bet that even after living a thousand years I wouldn’t be able
to learn a tenth of all that there is to know, and I’m not even going into the
metaphysical properties yet!
Just to repeat myself on purpose, any quartz you’ll find is good to make a
good orgonite, any type of macrocrystalline quartz is good, you could even
make an orgonite just with amethyst, or citrine or rose quartz, all are a sort
of macrocrystalline quartz. But now we get into the most interesting details,
energetically speaking all these stones have their own properties and that’s
why it is recommended to use white/grey/transparent quartz as the basic
building block of an orgonite.
Goodbye objective science, hello metaphysics, since all that comes is not
recognized by science yet..
Rock crystal (white/grey/transparent quartz) is known as being an all-round
stone that is more or less balanced and not specific to any chakra
(transparent quartz is linked to the crown chakra) but white/greyish is just
linked to no specific chakra and all chakras at the same time. That’s why it is
recommended as the primary stone to add in any orgonite. Other stones
usually affect very specific chakra(s).
Examples of macrocrystalline quartz
Smoky quartz is essentially active on the root chakra (1st chakra)
Citrine is essentially active on the solar plexus chakra (3rd chakra)
Rose quartz is a stone that acts on the heart chakra (4th)
Amethyst is mostly active on the crown chakra (7th)
Examples of cryptocrystalline quartz (also named Chalcedony)
Onyx is mostly active on the root chakra (1st)
Carnelian is mostly active on the sacral chakra (2nd)
Agate is mostly active on the solar plexus chakra (3rd)
Celestite is mostly active on teh throat chakra (5th)
etc.
There are dozens of other examples. There are also tons of stones that are
not quartz (or a subtype of quartz): calcite, amazonite, garnet, malachite,
etc. All these stones have their own properties. The world of stones is so vast
and so interesting, we can never get bored when getting into that subject!
By the way I said ‘mostly active’ because many stones have effects on
multiple chakras, and one can enhance these less prominent properties by
using other stones in conjunction.
Just remember the basic information, that’s all there is to know as far as
orgonite is concerned. Use a chip of rock crystal in each and every orgonite
and the orgonite will be good for all situations and all uses. Then as you
become more experienced you can go into making orgonites with other
stones added, like what I do in my own orgonites by adding rose quartz in all
of them, because I feel the energies of love (unconditional love) are the most
important to nourish. Apart from that if you want to use a unique stone as
the base for your orgonites, it has to be a type of macrocrystalline quartz
(amethyst, citrine etc.), else you’ll always need to add some type of quartz
with the other stones you want to add.
If you feel like mixing up many different stones together in a single orgonite,
you can, but you should know a bit what you are doing. You can safely use
rock crystal as a base and add one or two other stones, however if you want
to add dozens of stones, you’d better know what you are doing, it won’t
necessarily be good. It’s like cooking, all ingredients are good, but if you start
mixing up, salt, sugar, peas, meat, bread, pasta, tomato, spinach, carrots,
apples, lemon and all sorts of things together, they might be good
separately, but all together it can just become a completely inedible mixture!
Instead of cooking, we can compare stones with music, lets say that rock
crystal is a musical chord that is in harmony wit hall other chords (in music
that doesn’t exist, but lets assume it does), then you have to make sure that
other stones you add are in tune with that first chord, sicne it is in tune with
anything, you can add one other stone without any problem, but when you
start adding multiple stones you have to be sure they fit together, like in
music. For example the E(mi) Minor chord, E(mi), G(sol), B(si) or E(mi) Major;
E(mi), G#(sol#) and B(si). you can play each separately, but you cannot play
E(mi), G(sol), G#(sol#) and B(si) together, G(sol) and G#(sol#) are not in
tune with each other! With stones it is exactly the same.
We can say that stone ‘A’ is in tune with the stone ‘B’ and ‘C’, and the stone
‘A’ can also be in tune with a stone ‘D’ and ‘E’.. But that still doesn’t mean
that ‘B’ is in tune ‘D’, or ‘B’ with ‘C’, or ‘C’ with ‘D’, or ‘E’ with ‘B’, or ‘E’ with
‘C’ etc. Combinations of stones are very vast, there’s probably and infinite
number of combinations, but when you mix them together in an orgonite you
have to know a bit what you are doing else you can end up with and orgonite
that will probably still be functional but with a weird energy because of a lack
of harmony between some stones. It is exactly like listening to music that
does not respect the rules of musical harmony, it can still be played and we
can listen to it, but it won’t be perfect. Same applies to an orgonite, it will
work, but if we could transform the energy of this orgonite to a musical
equivalent we would notice it does not sound right..
Size/Dimension of the stones
To make orgonites, the size of the stones doesn’t have much influence.
Quartz is quartz, whether a stone weighs 1kg or 1g. The most important is to
respect the Basic rules to make orgonites.
 A mix of about 50% resin, 50% metal shavings
 Any metal is good
 And add a small bit of quartz in the mix
The size of the quartz (or any other stone for that matter) doesn’t change
anything. As long as you have the mix resin/metal/quartz, you’ll have a fully
functional orgonite. However, depending on the form of the orgonite, the
direction can matter if the stones have a definite/precise shape.
Direction/Orientation of the stones
The direction of the stones is important if you have stones that have a
specific shape, i.e. with one or two points and also other carved shapes; for
example merkaba, pyramid, etc. shapes. But that’s really important only if
the orgonite itself also has a precise shape that, or in one way or another,
gives a precise direction to the movement of the energies.
The most specific example is that of a pyramid or cone shape. These shapes,
already just by their shape, induce a rotation of the energies, which will tend
to come out as a vortex by the tip, a vortex opening up upwards as shown on
the schematic below.

The direction of the rotation of the vortex is yet another subject, but here
there’s a vortex, that’s the important part. In the case of a pyramid or cone,
when you have a single or double terminated quartz, you have to place it at
the center with a point pointing toward the tip of the pyramid/cone. If you
have a double terminated quartz you should, it is preferable, also know
which point goes upward and which goes downward, I invite you to check out
this page to find out more on the subject: Questions about Cloudbusters >
Quartz in the pipes, single or double terminated?. What applies to the
positioning of quartz in the pipes of a cloudbuster also applies to quartz in
pyramids and cones. For the specific example of a pyramid with a square
base, it is also more effective if it is oriented wrt. to the cardinal directions
(north/south east/west), so it is also very good to add 4 more pointed quartz
on the bottom of the base pointing to the middle of each face and thus when
the pyramid is properly placed, the quartz will also point to the 4 cardinal
directions. As shown on the schematic below, which is in fact one of the
multiple correct ways of making an orgonite HHG.
Here again, if you have double terminated quartz, the point that was
naturally growing in the air should be pointing toward the outside of the
pyramid.
I’m going a bit beyond the subject at hand to also talk about the cloudbuster
and more generally orgonites with an empty pipe inside (or many). These
pipes also induce a vortex rotation to the orgone. That’s why the rules that
apply to placing quartz in the tubes of a cloudbuster also apply to pyramids
and cones. However as explained on that page, Questions about
Cloudbusters > Are quartz required in the tubes of a cloudbuster?, quartz are
not absolutely necessary in the pipes of a cloudbuster nowadays, because
the base already contains quartz. Though, if you place a quartz in the pipe, it
should follow the direction of the vortex, because hollow pipes on their own
already induce a vortex rotation to the orgone, whether there is a pointed
quartz in in the pipe or not. In a cloudbuster, it’s the association of the 6
pipes placed in an hexagon that induce a larger central vortex, the 6 pipes
each generate a small vortex, and all combined induce a larger central
vortex; The 144 formation.
As a final note, remember that even if you misplace the stones in an
orgonite, the orgonite will always work, as long as there’s resin, metal and
quartz it’s good. But it won’t be as optimal as it could be.
We can compare that somehow with music.
Music will still be music, it’s sound, but what makes a music very nice are
the harmonic relationships between the notes and instruments that are
part of and play this music.
An orgonite will still be an orgonite, it’s orgonite after all, but what makes an
orgonite very nice (energetically speaking) are the geometric relationships
between the stones and other components that are part of the
composition of this orgonite.
For stones carved in other shapes, for example a quartz in a square base
pyramid form, you’ll understand that it is evident that if the stone is place
inside a pyramid of the same geometry, the stone should be oriented in the
same direction as the pyramid in which it is embedded. But for stones of
different shapes, merkabas, cubes etc. it becomes more complicated as you
can guess, I’m not sure myself what are the best arrangements (and why).
There are also plenty of other shapes possible for orgonites! I try to go into
the subject more in detail on that page: (–page in the works, forms and
geometry–).
Remember that these above explained examples are most relevant to
orgonite shapes that induce a movement in the flow of orgone, a simple
round Tower Buster does not induce any specific movement, so in such an
orgonite it’s (in my opinion) a waste of material to induce a well carved
quartz, a simple formless quartz is perfect already!

Ants, EMF and Orgonites:

effects of
electromagnetic waves
on ants and protection
provided by orgonite
Original document (french): résultats des exp. du 20022013.pdf

Experiments from the 20-02-2013

Experiments done on two colonies of Myrmica sabuleti; test with 10 workers
of each colony.

Observations
A couple of seconds after the DECT Phone base was turned on, the workers
started moving differently (more slowly, hesitant, even seeming to have
some difficulties). They gradually started to move away from just above
where the DECT Phone antenna was located and the ones that went in
direction to that zone evidently looked like they tried to avoid it (changing
direction and even walking backward).
Adding one orgonite (TB) didn’t seem to change much. We then added 5
more orgonites (TBs/ITBs). Soon after, the workers started to move a little bit
faster, more easily, less hesitant and some ants were observed even above
the zone where the antenna was located. There seemed to be a rather large
variability of reaction/behaviour between different ants.
Half an hour after having switched off the DECT, ants moved again as
previously, at a normal speed, without hesitation and going easily anywhere
and above where the active antenna was previously.

Linear velocity (mm/sec) et angular (deg. ang./cm) (median and

quartiles) of the 20 ants, which trajectories were followed under the
three experimental conditions.
Linear Angular
Experiment
velocity velocity

Control 9.2 (8.7 – 10.7) 143 (119 – 167)

With a DECT Phone turned on 5.8 (4.4 7.2) 230 (202 – 272)

With a DECT Phone turned on and 5

7.0 (5.8 – 8.3) 173 (141 – 225)
orgonites

The values of the linear velocity and angular velocities appropriately

describe what happened:
 Lower linear velocity and higher angular velocity with the presence of the
powered on DECT Phone
 Intermediate linear velocity and angular velocity (compared to control ones)
with the presence of the powered on DECT Phone and 5 adjacent orgonites
 Larger variability of obtained values with DECT and orgonites compared to
control values
 Orgonites clearly seem to have an effect, but they don’t remove all the
harmful effects cause by the electromagnetic fields generated by the DECT
Phone. The ants (except a couple) still detect the presence of the harmful field.
 Humans (not all!) are less sensitive than ants and could hence feel relieved
or more at ease with the presence or orgonites. However, these orgonites are (in
my opinion) not sufficient enough to overcome the negative effects of zones
with a dense coverage; withmany wireless modems in corridors, large numbers
of electromagnetic emitters (WiFi etc.) placed in the same room etc.

Videos (In french..)

 ELECTRONIC "SMOKE"
THE STORY OF THE SOLARAMA BOARD
"It Sure Does Clear The Aura"
By Muriel Larson

An ivy plant, a lame cat, and a crippled wife have

led electronics expert James Lee "Jimmy" Scribner to
what may be one of the greatest discoveries of all time.
It involves a specially treated board that emits
electrons when plugged into an electrical connection.
These free electrons appear to have a beneficial effect
on the human body, as well as on the growth and
development of plants.
Already many people with various ailments have
been delivered from pain, crippling and even death in
an amazing way by this electronic board. Its
application to aid human misery was first inspired by
the need of Scribner's wife Doanda. Suffering
excruciating pain from a ruptured spinal disk. Doanda
was under the care of Dr. Leslie Meyer of Greenville,
S.C. She had already had two operations for ruptured
disks. For four years she had been restricted by this
back trouble from getting around and doing her
housework.
Finally Dr. Meyer told her, "Medication can
relieve you of pain no longer. You must have another
operation. But I must be honest with you. It could
leave you a cripple for the rest of your life!"
 A reservation was made in January of 1971 for
Doanda to enter the Greenville General Hospital
for the operation. In between time she had pain
pills to take. But one of them didn't seem to last
until it was time to take the next one. "Lord help
her," Scribner pleaded one night. "And if there is
anything I can do, please put in my mind."
Scribner had worked in radio for more than 30
years. Although he was an electronics engineer, his
ability to act and write opened up another career
for him. For a number of years he had played all
the parts of the Johnson Family on radio, as well as
the Uncle Remus characters. But more recently he
had returned to his first love, electronics. Now he
wondered if his knowledge in this field might
prove useful to Doanda.
He had been in the heating business for seven
years, using his own invention, a heated board
which he called Solarama. He had noticed that
when one of these boards was near an ivy, the plant
showed phenomenal growth. When he moved the
board to the other side of the archway, the ivy on
that side began to grow fast.
[20]

Scribner tested the board and found it was

producing free electrons. After this, he developed
an electronic pot which he found produced
exceptional growth in bean plants. He had been
experimenting with this for several years.
A CURE FOR INFANTILE PARALYSIS -- IN CATS!

As he lay awake that night wondering and

praying about how his knowledge might help
Doanda, he suddenly remembered something that
had happened several years before, just after he had
started his plant experiments. At the time he had
put it off as coincidence. But now he wondered --
was it a coincidence? And why did it come to his
mind just now, as he was asking God for guidance?
They had had a cat named Fluffy. The cat had
been born with paralyzed hind quarters. Scribner
had a test board lying on a table in his workshop,
which he was preparing for the plants. It was
plugged in and was warm. Apparently Fluffy found
out how pleasant it was to lie on that warm board
and she began making a habit of it.
About seven weeks later Scribner noticed that
Fluffy was beginning to use her hind legs! And
within six months she was walking around like a
normal cat. Now it occurred to Scribner that if that
electron-emitting board had helped a crippled cat
perhaps it would help Doanda. He decided to
reduce the metallic particles he used in making
such a board in the hopes of getting on the same
frequency of the proton in the human cell.
As quickly as possible he developed this
board for Doanda's use and slipped it between the
mattress and springs on which she slept. After
sleeping on it for five nights Doanda found that her
pain had completely disappeared! She went to the
hospital to have the operation. The doctor
examined her again. "The rupture appears to have
subsided to a point where there seems to be no
swelling or pain," he said, quite puzzled. He
cancelled the operation and sent Doanda home.
After that she continued to improve, and she has
since been able to do housework that she had not
been able to do for years. Scribner gives God the
credit for this beneficial invention.
Jimmy Scribner began working in electronics
when the science was in its infancy, back in 1925.
For four years he was employed by Alliance
Electric Company in Norfolk, Virginia, and while
he was with them they started radio station WTAR.
Using his ability to imitate various voices, Scribner
originated a program for the station known as
"Stutter and Whine", taking the parts of both
characters and even writing his own material. Then
he spent a year as instructor for the Crosley
Corporation in Cincinnati, Ohio teaching the
construction of condensers and other radio parts.
In 1953 Scribner moved to Anderson, S.C., in
order to help build television station WAIM for
Wilton Hall, the newspaper in Anderson. He later
entered the mobile home business in Greenville,
S.C., at which time he developed the Solarama
heating boards that [21]eventually led to his even
more important discoveries.
BORDERLAND RESEARCH WITH PLANTS

Scribner's experiments with plants and free

electrons has resulted in the evolution of an
unusually large lima bean which he has named
after his wife Doanda. From a third-generation
Doanda bean he succeeded in growing a 22-foot
bean stalk which produced two bushels of beans
during the summer of 1971 . . . Electron-emitting
boards are now being made especially for plants.
The electrons penetrate pots placed on the board
and thus induce amazing growth, strength and
productivity in your plants of various kinds.
Since Doanda was helped by the board
invented for her benefit, hundreds of other people
have also been delivered from the symptoms and
debility of various ailments.
Perhaps the most unusual discovery
concerning this electronic board is what it has done
for a terminal cancer patient, Mrs. John Simmons
of Taylor, S.C. Barbara Simmons was operated on
for a malignant brain tumor during the summer of
1971, but the surgeon was unable to remove all of
it. She was sent home to die in September. The
doctor told her husband that any one of the brain
seizures she was having might end her life.
Barbara began using Scribner's board in
October and the seizures stopped. Six months later
further tests were made at the Greenville General
Hospital on Barbara. On April 21, 1972 she
received a note from Dr. Vernon M. Mustian,
neurologist, stating "the tests that were made
showed no evidence of tumor at this time".
A Greenville woman sent a board to a friend
of hers in Chicago who was dying from cancer.
After observing the remarkable improvement in
this terminal patient's condition, Dr. William F.P.
Phillips, eminent cancer specialist at Northwest
Hospital in Chicago, ordered similar boards for his
other patients.
"The therapeutic value of this invention is
based upon the principle of free electrons," says
Scribner. "The human cell is one of the few
elements containing atoms that do not have
electrons. The human body is, as Johns Hopkins
Hospital terms it, a community of electro-chemical
cells. The negative forces in this board I have
devised bring up all the cells in a person's body
from a dormant to an active state, restoring them to
a healthy condition." He estimates the free electron
emission rate at an amazing 2 MEG or 2 million
per second.

* * *

That's why we call it Electronic "Smoke",

after the smoke purifying rituals of Toltec adepts in
South America thousands of years ago, before the
Flood. Needless to say, Jimmy Scribner's hopes of
making his Solarama Board available to the public
were dashed by the refusal of the AMA and the
FDA to approve it as a therapeutic device. There
was no testing program.