How to build a one-piece folding picnic table out of

2×4 lumber
Table of Contents

1. Shopping list
2. Part identification - Schematics
3. The plans
4. The individual pieces
5. Step 1. Mark and cut the pieces
6. The angles pattern
7. Step 2. The round cuts
8. Step 3. The bolt holes
9. Step 4. Make up the back seat side-frames
10. Step 5. Make up the front legs
11. Step 6. Join the table rails to the leg extensions
12. Step 7. Assemble the side-frames
13. Step 8. See if it works
14. Step 9. Prepare for the seat boards
15. Step 10. Add the seat boards
16. Step 11. Add the tabletop boards
17. Step 12. Keeping the tabletop boards even
18. Step 13. Add the backrest stop
19. Step 14. Stop the table from spreading
20. Step 15. Add the seat braces
21. Step 16. Well done
22. Appendix 1: Changing stock size and/or table length
23. Appendix 2: The backrest clip-on
Part identification – Schematics
[a] front leg
[b] rear leg (inner)
[c] rear leg (outer)
[c1] back stop
[d] lower seat rail (rear)
[e] seat rail (rear)
[f] leg extension part 1 (rear)
[f1] leg extension part 2 (rear)
[g] table rail
[g1] spread stop
[h] seat rail (front)
[h1] seat rail brace (front)
[i] seat brace (rear)
[k] seat board (front)
[l] seat board (rear)
[m] tabletop board
The plans
Side elevation plans – picnic table mode

Side elevation plans – bench seat mode

Footprint plan
The individual pieces
Step 1. Mark and cut the pieces

Mark all the pieces onto 9 only 8ft (2240mm) lengths of 2×4 (100mm x 50mm) as shown in the drawing below.
Refer to the individual pieces plan on the previous page for the dimensions of each individual piece.
Place a sticker on each marked piece. Write the piece identification number on each sticker for future reference.

Cut the pieces out, don’t bother with any round cuts at this stage – just square cuts and angle cute.

Go to the next page for angles pattern.

The angles pattern
There are three different angle cuts required for this project – 10 degrees, 15 degrees, and 30 degrees.
If you want a pattern for the three angles, click on the image below and it will open up in a new window and
bigger size. You can then print it out.

Once you have printed the angles pattern out, fold it over a table and then use the pattern to set your bevel to the
angle you want, as in the picture below.
Step 2. The round cuts
Make a card template for the round cuts and bolt holes.
Using a compass draw a circle with a diameter of 3-1/2″ (88mm), which is the width of the wood.
Cut out the circle and that is your template.

Using the template, mark and cut the round shapes on pieces [a], [e], [f], and [g] as shown in the pictures below.
Each pair should be a mirror image of one another.

The middle of the template will mark the center of the bolt holes.
Step 3. The bolt holes
Each bolt hole will begin with a wider starter hole to embed (countersink) the bolt head or nut.

Drill a 1″ (25mm) starter hole the depth of the bolt head and washer ON ONE SIDE ONLY of each relevant
piece. Then continue through the wood with a 3/8″ (10mm) hole.

Now listen up – this is important: There are two of every piece and each pair mirror one another. Hence, the
starter holes must be on opposite sides of each matching pair. Simply follow the pictures below and take note of
what side the starter holes are on.

Pay particular attention to the hole placement in piece [g]. Refer to the plan drawing below.
Step 4. Make up the back seat side-frames
Make up the two back seat side-frames.

Assemble both back seat side-frames as shown in the photo and as per plan below.

Fix horizontal pieces [d] and [e] to pieces [b] and [c] with screws and exterior wood glue. Use 2 screws per
meeting. Pre-drill the screw holes through the horizontal pieces.

The frames must mirror one another as shown in the picture. Take note (from the picture) of which side (of
piece [e]) the starter hole is on.

Ensure that the bottoms of pieces [b] and [c] and the horizontal pieces [d] and [e] are parallel.
Step 5. Make up the front legs
Make up the two front legs consisting of pieces [a], [h], and [h1] so they are a mirror image of one another.
Use the plan below for placement and the pictures below for guidance.

Step 6. Join the table rails to the leg extensions

Join the table rails to the leg extensions to make up the third and final component of the frame mechanism.

This consists of pieces [g], [f], and [f1].

Make up two according to the plan and picture below. They must mirror one another.
Step 7. Assemble the side-frames
Assemble the two side-frames (the working mechanism) as shown in the plan and picture below. The side-
frames must be a mirror image of one another.
This is really just a matter of aligning the bolt holes, threading bolts (with washers) through the holes, and
applying washers to the other ends followed by nylon locking nuts.
Tighten the nuts tight enough to allow the frames to fold, but not loose enough to allow sideways wobble.
Step 8. See if it works
While on the ground, test the folding motion to ensure that the mechanism works as is intended.
When you fold the frame to seat mode with the top of the horizontal seat members [e], [f], and [h] all flush,
check that the bottom of the tabletop rail [g] is at least flush (vertically) with the top of the back leg [c]. It
doesn’t matter if it protrudes a little bit past.
Step 9. Prepare for the seat boards
Prepare the side-frames to take the seat boards.

Fold the side-frames over (into seat mode) until the tops of the horizontal seat members [e], [f], and [h] are
flush (even), place a piece of cardboard packer between pieces [f] and [h] and then apply a clamp to each side
frame to hold it in that position.
Then place the side-frames apart and parallel in readiness for the seat boards.
You might have to place a little packer under front legs [a] to balance the frames.

The cardboard spreads pieces [f] and [h] apart a little bit to help ensure the frame doesn’t bind during the
folding motion.
Step 10. Add the seat boards
Place the seat boards in place on the side-frames. It should be obvious which boards go where.
The shorter seat boards [l] fit in between pieces [f1] with the back edge flush with the back of piece [g] and the
longer seat boards sit flush with the front and ends of the frame.

Fix the front boards first and then the back boards ensuring everything is square and plumb . Fix with screws.
At this stage do not use glue in case any adjustments are needed. You can unscrew, glue, and re screw at a later
time when you are sure the mechanism is working properly.
Step 11. Add the tabletop boards

Refer to the drawing above and add the tabletop boards as follows:

1. Fix board no.1 and board no.5. Make the overhang at each end equal.
Board no.1 starts flush with the end of piece (g). It can be glued and screwed in place.
Board no.5 is temporary, just to keep the tabletop rails (g) parallel. Screw but do not glue.

2. Fix (with glue and screws) boards no. 2 and 3. Then take off board no. 5.

3. Whoa, hold it there. Time to fasten the tabletop boards in the middle to stop possible wrapping which could
make for an uneven tabletop. Read the next step ‘Step 12. Keeping the tabletop boards even’. Apply that
method to the three tabletop boards already fixed in place, and then add boards no. 4 and 5 securing in the same
manner, as you go.
Leave the unit in that position, with the clamps still on, until the backrest stops have been fixed in place as
explained in step 13.

Later, once the unit is in picnic table mode (towards the finish), you can fasten the middle of the seat boards in
the same manner as you fastened the tabletop boards.
Step 12. Keeping the tabletop boards even
This is a method I have found very effective (in this scenario) for keeping the tabletop boards and the seat
boards even in the middle. Simply nail 6″(150mm) galvanized nails through the edge of one board into another.
Pre drill the hole first the full length of the nail and the same diameter as the nail.
Make sure the nails in the tabletop are staggered, to ensure one nail does not run into another. See the pictures
below.
Step 13. Add the backrest stop
With the unit still on it’s knees (so as to speak), and the clamps still holding everything in place, now is the time
to fix the backrest stops.
Fix one to each rear leg (c) up against the side of the tabletop (currently clamped in seat mode).

Now you can stand it up, take the clamps off, take out the cardboard packer, and open it out to picnic table
mode…

But wait!!! There is nothing to stop it from spreading out too far. We need a spread stopper.
Step 14. Stop the table from spreading
We need a spread-stop (for lack of another term). Otherwise the table will just keep spreading out until it is on
the floor.

O.K. Open up the picnic table until the from leg and back leg are 47-1/4″ apart overall. Find two pieces of wood
(or something) slightly longer than 47-1/4″ and clamp them to the bottom of the front and back legs, one each
side of the picnic table. That will hold the table in position and stop it spreading while you fix the spread-stops.

Apply two spread-stops each end. Spread-stop 1 and Spread-stop 2.

Spread-stop 1 is piece (g1). There are two, one each end. Fix them (g1) to the ends of the tabletop rails (g)so
they are positioned flush with the ends of the tabletop rails (g) and against the front legs (a). Fix with glue and
screws.

Spread-stop 2 are angle brackets (sliding door stopper type brackets). Fit them to the front legs (a) as close to
the outside of the leg as possible and hard up against the end underside of the tabletop rail (g). Ensure it is as
close to the outside of the leg as possible otherwise it could be in the way when folding the table back to bench
mode.
Step 15. Add the seat braces
Hey, almost there. Just the rear seat to brace.

Turn the table upside down and prop or sit the rear seat on something solid. Ensure that the seat side-frame and
the seat are at right angles to each other and fix the braces (i) in place. Just like in the picture.

Flip the folding table up the right way and see how it works
Step 16. Well done
Yes, well done. If you have made this folding picnic table to the dimensions given in this content, and you have
followed all the instructions thus far, you should have a unit that looks like this

And if you want to add a back-rest clip-on (as shown below) for a bit of extra back comfort and also to give a
more appealing look (depending on taste, of course) to the unit when in seat mode, then go to ‘Appendix 2: The
back-rest clip-on’.
Appendix 1: Changing stock size and/or table length
It is possible to use a different stock size (thickness) and/or change the length of the folding picnic table.

Using a different stock size (thickness only)

If you want to use a wood that is slightly thicker or thinner that the wood size used in this article, you must
adjust the length of the four bolts to suit as well as apply the formula (see below) to the seat boards and the
tabletop boards (in relation to one another).

Changing the table length

You can change the length of the table simply by changing the length of the seat boards and tabletop boards.
The same amount must be added (or subtracted) to the back seat boards, the front seat boards, and the tabletop
boards.
If you use a thicker or thinner wood as well, then you must apply the formula.

The formula

The difference in length between the shorter and longer seat boards is the sum of the thickness of four side
framing members plus 1/4″ (6mm). The later measurement is to allow for a little bit of play.
For example, if the side frame members are 1-1/2″ (38mm) thick, four times that plus 1/4″ (6mm) equals 6-1/4″
(158mm).
Therefore 6-1/4″ (158mm) will be the difference between the length of the front and rear seats boards.

The difference in length between the tabletop boards and the longer seat boards is the sum of the thickness of
two side frame members plus 3″ (76mm) for the overhang (shared equal each end).
For example, if the side framing members are 1-1/2″ (38mm) thick, two times that is 3″ (76mm), and plus the 3″
(76mm) overhang = 6″ (152mm).
Therefore, In that case the table boards will be 6″ (152mm) longer than the longer seat boards.

Appendix 2: The backrest clip-on

A backrest clip-on if you want to make the backrest a bit higher for comfort or looks.
You will need:
• 1 piece of 2×6 (50mm x 150mm) that is 60″ (1524mm) long.
• 4 pieces of 2×4 (50mm x 100mm) that are 10″ (254mm) long.
• A dozen 3″ (75mm) screws and a bit of glue.

Make the clip-on up according to the following plans and pop it on top of the backrest when the picnic table is
in bench seat mode.