Baby Brownstone

Jessica Leigh
rainbowgoblin@boyknits.com

October 7, 2015
Version: 2.0
 Overview

This is a bottom-up pullover sweater with raglan sleeves and a shawl collar, inspired by Jared Flood’s
beautiful Brownstone, but sized for infants and toddlers. I used a DK weight yarn for the grey sweater
and a worsted weight for the green sweater, and both were knitted at an unusually tight gauge to
produce a very sturdy fabric.
This sweater is a relatively quick knit, but beware: the shawl collar eats a lot of wool. The contrasting
colour I used in both cases was kind of an accident.

10 (10,10,11.5,11.5) cm

19 (21,21.5,22,23) cm
15

24 (26,28,30,32) cm
(1
6,
18
,2
17 (18,19,20.5,22) cm

0 ,2
2)c
m

14.5 (15,15,15.5,15.5) cm

47 (50,53,56,58) cm
 Skills Used
Gauge 28 stitches and 40 rows over 10 cm in stst
• Long tail cast on
on larger needle
• Knitting in the round
Size 3 (6,12,18,24) months
• Picking up & knitting along a selvedge
Finished dimensions (after blocking) garment
length, 24 (26,28,30,32) cm; girth, • Grafting
47 (50,53,56,58) cm; arm length, 15 • Short rows (shadow wraps tutorial here: http:
(16,18,20,22) cm //bit.ly/1WyBSAR)
Yarn required 400 (500,500,600,600) m of • Elizabeth Zimmermann’s sewn bind off (tuto-
DK weight yarn rial here: http://bit.ly/1KOTI0l)
Recommended yarn Vintage Purls Max
Needles 2.75 mm 40 cm circular needle
2.75 mm 60 or 80 cm circular needle
2.75 mm DPNs (4 or 5, as preferred) for
sleeves, or size required to achieve gauge
Other materials 4 stitch markers, stitch holder
or scrap yarn for holding stitches, 1 button,
tapestry needle

Abbreviations
K knit
P purl
K2tog knit 2 together
m1L make one left
m1R make one right
SSK left-leaning decrease
bo bind off
co cast on
eor End of round/row
pm place marker
RS right side
sm slip marker
WS wrong side
stst stocking/stockinette stitch
w&t short row wrap & turn
st(s) stitch(es)
 Notes
The gauge used for this sweater is unusual: I’ve used
a rather small needle to create a bulletproof fabric.
I wanted an outdoor sweater that’s dense enough to
stand up to both our unpredictable weather and our
frequently lousy housing construction (New Zealand
houses are mostly uninsulated, and have no central
heating and visible gaps around doors and windows).
If you’d like to make a lighter version of this sweater,
try using a lighter yarn (sport or fingering weight)
rather than using a looser gauge. Yarn requirements
will probably vary! Your row gauge will probably also
vary, but that shouldn’t be a problem: it might af-
fect the fit a little around the arms, but this sweater
uses standard raglan shaping, so unless your row
gauge is drastically different you should still end up
with something that fits like a raglan.

The instructions here call for dpns for the sleeves. If

you prefer magic loop or two circulars, or any other
newfangled method for knitting around small cir-
cumferences, go right ahead! There’s no particular
reason to use dpns, they’re just the way I do things
for now!

The sizing given is based on Craft Yarn Council stan-

dards, which may or may not match your child’s size
for age. The pictures here are of Tommy (wearing
the 3 month size at 3 months, and the 18 month size
between 8 and 20 months). He has always been a bit
above average weight for his age, and he’s average
height, but long in the body. I made his sleeves a
bit shorter than the pattern calls for. The 18 month
size still fits him at age 2, although the button has
fallen off, and the arms are definitely starting to look
a little short!

To make the shawl collar, you need to work short

rows across the back of the neck. I’ve used shadow
stitch wraps at the ends of short rows. If you
aren’t familiar with this technique, you can check
out the tutorial from Socktopus Unplugged: http:
//bit.ly/1WyBSAR. This is an easyl technique that
looks tidier than short rows with stitches wrapped
normally, but the collar will work just as well if you
use another short row technique.
Body
With the 40 cm circular needle, co 132
(140,148,160,164) sts using the long tail method. Join
without twisting and work in the round in K2,P2 rib-
bing for 4 cm. Continue in stst until piece measures 15
(16,17,18.5,20) cm (measured from cast on edge).
K60 (64,68,74,76), then bo 12 sts for neck opening.
This is the new eor. Continue working back and forth
in stst for 2 cm, ending after a WS row. Set up for
sleeves: K31 (33,35,38,39), place 8 sts just worked on
scrap yarn, K66 (70,74,80,82), place 8 sts just worked
on scrap yarn, K to eor. Break yarn or use a new ball
to make sleeves.
Sleeves
Co to dpns 40 (42,42,44,44) sts using the long tail
method. Join without twisting and pm or use the gap
between dpns as a “virtual marker”. Work in the round
in K2,P2 ribbing for 4 cm. K20 (21,21,22,22), pm
(mid-round marker), K to eor.
Work an increase round: K to 1 st from mid-round
marker, m1R, K1, sm, K1, m1L, K to eor.
Continue working in the round in stst until sleeve
measures 15 (16,18,20,22) cm (measured from cast
on edge), increasing 2 sts in the middle of round ev-
ery 1.5 cm to a total of 54 (58,60,62,64) sts. K23
(25,26,27,28), place next 8 sts on scrap yarn, then
break yarn. Place remaining sts on a stitch holder or
scrap yarn.
Repeat to make a second sleeve, then begin raglan
shaping.
 each front, 16 [16,14,14,14] from each sleeve, 28
[28,28,32,32] from the back). Break yarn and begin
working shawl collar.

Shawl Collar
Pick up and K29 (33,36,38,39) stitches up the right side
of the neck opening. K across the remaining stitches
around the neck, removing the two markers at the front
raglan lines. Pick up and K29 (33,36,38,39) down the
left side of the neck opening. Turn. You should be
ready to work a WS row. (P2, K2) to last 2 sts, P2.
Begin short row shaping. Work in established K2,
P2 ribbing to second marker (back left raglan line).

Raglan Shaping
You should be ready to knit the WS of body. You
should have a total of 196 (212,224,240,248) sts (23
[25,27,30,31] from each front side, 46 [50,5254,56]
from each sleeve, 58 [62,66,72,74] from the back).
Switch to 80 cm circular needle. Work raglan shaping
over 31 (35,39,41,43) rows as follows:

Row 1 (RS): P across left front, pm; P across one

sleeve, pm; P across back, pm; P across second
sleeve, pm; P across right front.

Row 2: *K to 4 sts from marker, K2tog, K2, sm, K2,

SSK, repeat from * 3 more times, K to eor. 8 sts
decreased.

Row 3: P.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 to row 9. On row 10, work

neckline decreases as follows:

Row 10 (WS) K1, SSK, *K to 4 sts from marker,

K2tog, K2, sm, K2, repeat from * 3 more times,
K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K2. 10 sts decreased.

Continue working raglan shaping (rows 2 and 3) to

row 31 (35,39,41,43), working a neckline decrease row
(row 10) every sixth row until row 28 (28,34,34,40).
You should finish after a WS row. You should now
have 68 (68,62,70,68) sts remaining (4 [4,3,5,4] from
Remove marker and w&t next stitch. Turn (wrapped
stitch should be on right needle after turning). Work
in established ribbing to remaining marker (back right
raglan line). Remove marker and w&t next stitch. Turn c 2015 Rainbow Goblin Designs. All rights
(wrapped stitch should be on right needle after turning). reserved. You may not sell or distribute copies
of this pattern without permission. You may,
Work in established ribbing to wrapped stitch. Work however, use any garments produced from
stitch and shadow together. Work one stitch in pattern, this pattern as you see fit, including (but
then w&t next stitch. Turn. Keep working short rows in not limited to) selling them for charity or for
this manner until back of collar measures 6 cm, ending profit.
after a WS row. Turn, then work to eor. Work entire
collar in established ribbing until front of collar measures
4 cm, then cast off using Elizabeth Zimmerman’s sewn
cast off so that the collar’s edge matches your cast on
edges (link in Skills on page 2).

Finishing

Sew edges of collar down to the bottom of the neck

opening so that left side is in front of right. Sew
a toggle button onto the right side of the collar.
Make a button
loop by twisting
a length of yarn
tightly, then fold-
ing it back on
itself. Double this
twist over to make
a loop that’s the
right size for your
toggle, then sew it
to the left side of
the collar. Thread the ends through to the inside of the
sweater and weave them in. Graft the undersides of
the sleeves to the body with the 8 sts left on scrap yarn
on each side and on each sleeve. Weave in all ends.

Block your completed sweater gently to the given di-

mensions.