Fluffy Bloom Cardigan

Information:
Yarn: 300(300/300/300/400/400) g of Fluffy – Querstricker 100 g / 350 m –
shown in color silver grey
Needles: 3.75 mm main needle and 3.25 mm for picking up arm stitches
Gauge: in stockinette stitch: 22 stitches =10 cm / 30 rows = 10 cm – after washing
Size: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
Finished bust circumference: 102(112/119/130/138/149) cm
include 18-22 cm positive ease, my one has 19 cm positive ease
Material: 16 removable stitch markers (or waste yarn loops, for Japanese short rows)
tapestry needle
waste yarn
stitch holder

Notes:
Fluffy Bloom Cardigan is a featherlight, fluffy cardigan, knitted top-down and seamless, with a
great sitting hem, the fronts are overlapping and have an icord edge.
This instruction is with Japanese Short Rows for a prefect fitting shoulder and worked seamless
with Judy´s Magic Cast On, so I think it´s for advanced knitters. Please read the pattern once
before start knitting.

Attention:
Fabrics knitted with a silk yarn tend to stretch a lot of when wet. Therefor it is imperative to
check your gauge after washing.

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Abbreviations: Specials:
bef. before
m1r
BOR begin of round
make one right – with left needle pick up
dec decrease
horizontal bar from back and knit 1
k knit
k2tog knit two together
m1l
k2togtbl knit two together through back loop
make one left – with left needle pick up horizontal
LH left hand
bar from front and knit 1 through back loop
m marker
m1l make one left (see specials)
m1lp
m1lp make one left, purl (see specials)
make one left purl – with left needle pick up
m1r make one right (see specials)
horizontal bar from front and purl 1 through back
p purl
loop
p2togtbl purl 2 together through back loop
pm place marker
ssk
prm place removable marker
slip 2 stitches one at a time knitwise to the
prov. co provisional cast on (see specials)
righthand needle; return the stitches back to left
puk pick up and knit
hand needle in turned position and knit them
sm slip marker
together through the back loops;
ssk slip, slip, knit (see specials)
ssp slip, slip, purl (see specials)
ssp
rd round
slip 2 stitches one at a time knitwise to the
rep. repeat
righthand needle; return the stitches back to
rm remove marker
lefthand needle in turned position and purl them
sl slip
together through back loops;
sl1kw slip one knitwise with yarn in back
https://youtu.be/i4_cnXAPoLs
sl1pw slip one purlwise with yarn in front
sl3pw slip three purlwise with yarn in front
provisional cast on: I used “Judy's Magic Cast On”
sl1pwwyib slip one purlwise with yarn in back
(but you can use your preferred provisional cast on)
st(s) stitch(es)
https://youtu.be/1pmxRDZ-cwo
RH right hand
RS right side
Japanese short rows
WS wrong side
https://youtu.be/Zchrs0guYZU
Measurements:
on a knit row:
A – upper back:
1. Knit to turning point, turn work
46.5(49/52.75/57.25/61/65.5) cm
2. Slip the next stitch purlwise with yarn in
front
B – lower back:
3. Place a removeable marker on working yarn
48(52/55.5/61/64.5/70) cm
at the front of the work (or a waste yarn
loop and break these, if you resolved the
C – each front:
short row)
27(30/31.75/34.5/36.75/39.5) cm
4. Purl next row
D – body length from underarm:
on a purl row:
+/- 39 cm
1. purl to turning point, turn work
2. Slip the next stitch purlwise with yarn in
E – arm circumference:
back
26.5(28/31/32/33.5/34.5) cm
3. Place a removeable marker on working Yarn
at the back of the work (or a waste yarn
F – sleeve length:
loop and break these, if you resolved the
+/- 42 cm
short row)
4. Knit next row

closing gap on a RS,

when marker is at the back of work:
1. Knit to the gap, marker is in back of the
work
2. Pull the stitch marker (without twisting,
right leg in front) and place the yarn loop
on left hand needle
3. Knit loop and next stitch together
4. Remove marker

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closing gap on a WS, Right front:
when marker is at the front of work: with RS facing slip sts from prov. co, start on right
1. purl to the gap, marker is in front of the edge
work sl 39(40/44/47/51/56) sts (for right shoulder), pm,
2. slip next stitch purlwise to right hand sl 12(14/14/16/16/16) sts (for right back neck) to
needle needle
3. Pull the stitch marker (without twisting, leave the other 51(54/58/63/67/72) sts on stitch
right leg in front) and place the yarn loop holder (cable or waste yarn)
on left hand needle cast on sts for collar:
4. Slip the stitch to back to the LH needle with prov. co 10(12/12/14/14/14) sts (on each
without twisting needle)
5. Now purl stitch and loop together row 1 (RS): knit
6. Remove marker
join collar to back neck:
Knot Pattern: (multiple of 6+5) row 2 (WS): sl3pw (for icord edge), k1, p to last
to make knots: purl 3 together, leaving stitches on st from prov. co, ssp (with first
left needles, knit same 3 stitches together and purl back-neck stitch and last prov. co
same 3 stitches again, drop from left needle; for collar stitch), turn
row 3 (RS): sl1pwwyib, k to last 4 sts, m1r, p1,
row 1: knit k3
row 2: purl row 4 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last collar st (last ssp
row 3: k1 *make knot, k3* rep. from *to* to last sts), ssp with next sts from back-
4 sts, make knot, k1 neck, turn
row 4: purl
row 5: knit rep. row 3 and 4, 9(11/11/13/13/13) more times
row 6: purl (or to 1 st bef. marker);
row 7: k4 *make knot, k3* rep. from *to* to last
st, k1 row 5 (RS): sl1pwwyib, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3
row 8: purl row 6 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last collar st, ssp with
next sts from back-neck, turn
row 7 (RS): sl1pwwyib, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3
Instruction row 8 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to 1 st bef. m, sl1kw,
rm, s1kw, sl2 sts in turned position
Back: back to left hand needle, p2togtbl,
with provisional cast on purl to end
102(108/116/126/134/144) sts (on each needle)
now you have 58(63/67/74/78/83) sts for right
next row (RS): knit front;
next row (WS): purl
Right shoulder shaping with Japanese short rows:
shoulder shaping with Japanese short rows set up row (RS): k to last 4 sts, p1, k3
short row 1 (RS): k to last 5 sts, turn short row 1 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 5 sts, turn
(WS): sl1pw, prm, p to last 5 sts, turn (RS): sl1pwwyib, prm k to 4 sts bef.
short row 2 (RS): sl1pwwyib, prm, k to 5 sts bef. end, p1, k3
last turn, turn short row 2 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to 5 sts bef. last
(WS): sl1pw, prm, p to 5 sts bef. turn, turn
last turn, turn (RS): sl1pwwyib, prm k to 4 sts bef.
end, p1, k3
rep. short row 2, six more times
rep. short row 2, six more times
next row (RS): sl1pwwyib, prm, k to end of row
and close the gaps (see specials next row (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to end and close gaps
closing gap on a RS) as you pass as you pass them;
them; row 1 (RS): k to last 4 sts, p1, k3
next row (WS):p to end of row and close the gaps row 2 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to end
(see specials closing gap on a WS)
as you pass them; rep. row 1 and 2, 17(17/18/18/19/19) times,
until piece measured 14(14/15/15/16/16) cm along
next row (RS): knit armhole edge;
next row (WS):purl break yarn;

rep. last 2 rows 17(17/18/18/19/19) more times,

until piece measured 14(14/15/15/16/16) cm along
armhole edge;

break yarn and place stitches on stitch holder or

waste yarn;
Copyrights by Kalmknit - Kalmknit@online.de
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Left front: now you have 226(246/262/290/306/330)
slip sts from collar prov. co to needle: 60(66/70/78/82/88) for each front and
sl 10(12/12/14/14/14) sts, 106(114/122/134/142/154) for back;
continue on middle of back neck, slip sts from back
prov. co Body:
sl 12(14/14/16/16/16) sts (for left back neck), pm, row 1 (RS): k3, p1, k to m, sm, k to m, sm, k to
sl 39(40/44/47/51/56) sts (for left shoulder) to last 4 sts, p1, k3
needle row 2 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to m, sm, p to m, sm, p to
last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
joining collar to back neck:
with right side facing, rejoin yarn at right collar rep. row 1 and 2 until piece measures 25.5 cm (72
edge rows) measured from armhole co, or 16.5 cm less
row 1 (RS): k3, p1, k to last collar sts, ssk (with than desired length;
last collar st und first back neck sts),
turn set up row for knot pattern:
row 2 (WS): sl1pw, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw for size XS(–/M/–/–/–) – decreases:
row 3 (RS): k3, p1, k to last collar st, ssk turn next row (RS): k3, p1, k2tog(–/k2tog/–/–/–), k to
row 4 (WS): sl1pw, p to last 4 sts, m1lp, k1, sl3pw m, sm, k to approx. middle of back,
k2tog(–/k2tog/–/–/–), k to m, sm,
rep. row 3 and 4, 9(11/11/13/13/13) more times k to last 6 sts,
(or to 1 st bef. marker) k2tog(–/k2tog/–/–/–), p1, k3
next row (WS):sl3pw, k1, p to m, rm, p to m, rm,
row 5 (RS): k3, p1, k to last collar st, ssk turn p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
row 6 (WS): sl1pw, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
row 7 (RS): k3, p1, k to last collar st, sl1kw, rm, for size –(S/–/L/XL/XXL) – increase:
s1kw, sl2 sts in turned position back next row (RS): k3, p1, –(–/–/m1l/–/–), k to m,
to left hand needle, k2togtbl, knit to –(–/–/m1l/–/–), sm, k approx.
end middle of back,
row 8 (WS): p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw –(m1l/–/m1l/m1l/m1l), k to m, sm
–(–/–/m1l/–/–), k last 4 sts,
now you have 58(63/67/74/78/83) sts for left front –(–/–/m1l/–/–), p1, k3
next row (WS):sl3pw, k1, p to m, rm, p to m, rm,
Left shoulder shaping with Japanese short rows: p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
short row 1 (RS): k3, p1, k to 5 sts bef. end, turn
(WS): sl1pw, prm, p to last 4 sts, k1, now you have 223(247/259/295/307/331) sts
sl3pw
short row 2 (RS): k3, p1, k to 5 sts bef. last turn, start knot pattern:(see also specials “make knot”
turn and chart on page 5)
(WS): sl1pw, prm, p to last 4 sts, k1,
sl3pw row 1 (RS): k3, p1, k1, *k9, make knot* rep. to
last 14 sts, k10, p1, k3
rep. short row 2, six more times row 2 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
row 3 (RS): k3, p1, to last 4 sts, p1, k3
row 1 (RS): k3, p1, k to end and close gaps as row 4 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
you pass them; row 5 (RS): k3, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3
row 2 (WS): p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw row 6 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
row 3 (RS): k3, p1, k to end row 7 (RS): k3, p1, kto last 4 sts, p1, k3
row 4 (WS): p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw row 8 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
row 9 (RS): k3, p1, k1, *k3, make knot, k6* rep.
rep. row 3 and 4, 17(17/18/18/19/19) more times, to last 14 sts, k3, make knot, k4, p1,
until piece measured 14(14/15/15/16/16) cm along k3
armhole edge; don´t break yarn; row 10 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
row 11 (RS): k3, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3
Joining fronts and back: row 12 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
With right side facing starting at the left collar edge row 13 (RS): k3, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3
and co underarm sts, with longtail cast on row 14 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
row 15 (RS): k3, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3
row 1 (RS): k3, p1, k54(59/63/70/74/79) from left row 16 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
front, co 2(3/3/4/4/5) sts, pm, row 17 (RS): k3, p1, k1, *k9, make knot* rep. to
co 2(3/3/4/4/5) sts, last 14 sts, k10, p1, k3
k102(108/116/126/134/144) from row 18 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
back, co 2(3/3/4/4/5) sts, pm, row 19 (RS): k3, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3
co 2(3/3/4/4/5) sts, row 20 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
k54(59/63/70/74/79) from right front, row 21 (RS): k3, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3
p1, k3 row 22 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
row 2 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to m, sm, p to m, sm, p to row 23 (RS): k3, p1, k1, *make knot, k3* rep. to
last 4 sts, k1 sl3pw last 8 sts, make knot, k1, p1, k3

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 Fluffy Bloom Cardigan

Knot Pattern
row 24 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
row 25 (RS): k3, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3 Chart: Knot Pattern
row 26 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw
row 27 (RS): k3, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

row 28 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw 44 44

43 43
row 29 (RS): k3, p1, k1, *k3, make knot* rep. to 42 42
last 8 sts, k4, p1, k3 41 41

row 30 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw 40 40

39 39
row 31 (RS): k3, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3 38 38
row 32 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw 37 37

row 33 (RS): k3, p1, k1, *make knot, k3* rep. to 36 36

35 35
last 8 sts, make knot, k1, p1, k3 34 34
row 34 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw 33 33

row 35 (RS): k3, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3 32 32

31 31
row 36 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw 30 30
row 37 (RS): k3, p1, k1, *k3, make knot* rep. to 29 29

last 8 sts, k4, p1, k3 28 28

27 27
row 38 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw 26 26
row 39 (RS): k3, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3 25 25

row 40 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw 24 24

23 23
row 41 (RS): k3, p1, k1, *make knot, k3* rep. to 22 22
last 8 sts, make knot, k1, p1, k3 21 21

row 42 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw 20 20

row 43 (RS): k3, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k3

19 19
18 18
row 44 (WS): sl3pw, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, sl3pw 17 17
16 16

Bind off with icord: 15

14
15
14
co 2 sts cable-cast-on method; 13 13

*k2, k2togtbl, place 3 sts back to LH needle*; 12 12

rep. from *to* to last 3 sts 11

10
11
10
K2, pass 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch on RH 9 9

needle, place 1 stitch back to LH needle, k2togtbl, 8 8

pull yarn through last stitch; 7

6
7
6
5 5
Sleeves (both alike): 4 4

Change to smaller needles (3.25 mm) and 3

2
3
2
with right side facing, starting at the middle of 1 1
underarm co sts, pick up and
k 60(62/68/70/74/76) sts make knot
(pick up and k1 st by each st from underarm co, 1
st in the edge and 2 sts for every 3 rows) Created With Knitting Chart for iPhone & iPad
pm (BOR)
change to main needle 3.75 mm
next row (dec-row for edge stitch): k3, k2tog, k to
last 5 sts, ssk, k3;

work in stockinette stitch for

37(37/18/18/15/15) rows;
dec row: k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1;

rep. last dec every 38th(38th/19th/19h/14th/14th),

row, 2(2/5/5/7/7) times

you have now: 52(54/54/56/56/58) sts

Bind off with icord:

co 2 sts cable-cast-on method;
*k2, k2togtbl, place 3 sts back to LH needle*;
rep. from *to* to last 3 sts
K2, pass 1st stitch over the 2nd stitch on RH
needle, place 1 stitch back to LH needle, k2togtbl,
pull yarn through last stitch;

Finishing:
Wave in all ends; Wash, block loosely and enjoy!

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