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the

cookbook
1,039
REVISED EDITION
recipes from
Edited by Susan Westmoreland
Food Director, Good Housekeeping America’s favorite
test kitchen
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Copyright © 2007 by Hearst Communications, Inc. Published by Hearst Books


A Division of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.
All rights reserved. The recipes and photographs in this 387 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10016
volume are intended for the personal use of the reader and
may be reproduced for that purpose only. Any other use, Good Housekeeping and Hearst Books are trademarks
especially commercial use, is forbidden under law without of Hearst Communications, Inc.
the written permission of the copyright holder.

Good Housekeeping
Editor in Chief: Rosemary Ellis
Food Director: Susan Westmoreland
Associate Food Director: Susan Deborah Goldsmith The Good Housekeeping Cookbook Seal guarantees that the
Special Projects Director: Richard Eisenberg recipes in this cookbook meet the strict standards of the Good
Housekeeping Research Institute, a source of reliable informa-
The Good Housekeeping Cookbook tion and a consumer advocate since 1900. Every recipe has
Culinary Consultant and Writer: Deborah Mintcheff been triple-tested for ease, reliability, and great taste.
Copyeditors: Brenda Goldberg and Miriam Rubin
Proofreaders: Diane Boccadoro, Barbara Machtiger, www.goodhousekeeping.com
Sydne Matus, Loisina Michel, Deri Reed, Carol Spier
Layout Designer: Laura Smyth Distributed in Canada by Sterling Publishing
Illustrator: Alan Witschonke c/o Canadian Manda Group, 165 Dufferin Street
Toronto, Ontario, Canada M6K 3H6
Hearst Books
Publisher: Jacqueline Deval Distributed in Australia by Capricorn Link (Australia) Pty. Ltd.
Editorial Director: Marisa Bulzone P.O. Box 704, Windsor, NSW 2756 Australia
Project Editor: Maryanne Bannon
Art Director: Celia Fuller For information about custom editions, special sales,
premium and corporate purchases, please contact Sterling
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Special Sales Department at 800-805-5489 or
The Good housekeeping cookbook : 1,039 recipes from specialsales@sterlingpub.com.
America’s favorite test kitchen / edited by Susan Westmore-
land. — Rev. ed. Manufactured in China
p. cm.
Includes index. Sterling ISBN 13: 978-1-58816-561-9
ISBN-10: 1-58816-561-2 ISBN 10: 1-58816-561-2
ISBN-13: 978-1-58816-561-9
1. Cookery, American. I. Westmoreland, Susan. II. Good
Housekeeping (New York, N.Y.)
TX715.G624 2007
641.5973—dc22
2007007273

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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FOREWORD

Welcome to The Good Housekeeping Cookbook—my This cookbook is also a handy reference for your
favorite of all our cookbooks. There’s a good chance kitchen shelves. No question is left unanswered,
that you grew up eating Good Housekeeping recipes, whether you are a beginner or have been cooking for
just as I did. My mother kept Good Housekeeping on years. You’ll find reliable information on cooking tech-
her night table for roughly half a century and fre- niques, safe food handling, and healthy eating. The
quently turned to it for great recipes that our whole book opens with an updated Basics chapter, introduc-
family would enjoy. These days, I work closely with the ing you to all you need to know to start cooking and
experts in the Good Housekeeping Test Kitchen, and serving tasty meals for family and friends. The Eating
we make sure that the recipes—all triple-tested—con- Well section has been newly researched and reviewed
tinue to be delicious, easy to make, and easy to follow. by a registered dietician, reflecting the latest research
Growing up in the Deep South, I learned that creat- about nutrition. Every chapter begins with the funda-
ing a beautiful meal—even a simple one—can be one of mentals of its food category. For instance, in the Meat
life’s greatest pleasures. This photo-filled cookbook will chapter, you’ll learn about different grades of meat,
help you make dishes you’ve never tried and show you what to look for when buying it, how to store it, and
ways to add zest to some old favorites. You’ll find more the various methods to prepare it. An illustrated chart
than 1,000 recipes ranging from classics like Susan’s Meat depicts the most popular cuts, so you’ll know exactly
Loaf and All-American Barbecued Chicken to interna- what to ask for when you go shopping.
tional dishes such as Thai Chicken with Basil and The Good Housekeeping Cookbook, the latest in our
Spaghetti all’Amatriciana to dazzling desserts including long, venerable line, was created by Susan Westmore-
Orange Liqueur Soufflé and Banana Cream Pie. All the land, our magazine’s Food Director and the head of the
recipes have nutritional profiles, so you’ll know how many famed Good Housekeeping Test Kitchen. While a
calories and carbs are in them, as well as the amount of trained chef who studied at cooking schools in the U.S.
protein, sodium, cholesterol and fat (total and saturated). and abroad, Susan learned to cook where most of us
Because grilling has become a more and more pop- did: in her mother’s Italian kitchen. Named The James
ular way to make dinner in a hurry (and to get your Beard Foundation’s Editor of the Year in 2001, Susan is
husband to help!), this edition includes two new chap- also a “real world” cook—she often tries out her latest
ters: Grilling and Quick & Easy Weeknight Meals. The Good Housekeeping recipes on her husband, Rip, and
Grilling chapter delivers useful tips from the Good son, Lucio.
Housekeeping Test Kitchen on how to get the best So from our kitchens to yours, happy cooking! I
from your barbecue. Most of the recipes in the Quick hope this book will give you years of delicious, healthy
& Easy chapter can be prepared and cooked within 30 dining at home.
minutes—great for you and your family. Rosemary Ellis, Editor-in-Chief

FOREWORD 3

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CONTENTS

1. B A S I C S 6

2. A P P E T I Z E R S 28

3 . S O U P, S T E W S & C H I L I S 44

4. M E A T 78

5. P O U L T R Y 126

6. F I S H & S H E L L F I S H 162

7. E G G S & C H E E S E 196

8. P A S T A & P A S T A S A U C E S 218

9. B E A N S, R I C E & O T H E R G R A I N S 242

10. Q U I C K & E A S Y W E E K N I G H T M E A L S 262

11. G R I L L I N G 290

12. V E G E T A B L E S 328

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13 . F R U I T 382

14. S A L A D S & S A L A D D R E S S I N G S 408

15. S A U C E S, S A L S A S & C O N D I M E N T S 430

16. Q U I C K B R E A D S 444

17. Y E A S T B R E A D S & S A N D W I C H E S 458

18. D E S S E R T S 480

19. C A K E S & F R O S T I N G S 506

20. P I E S & T A R T S 530

21. C O O K I E S & C O N F E C T I O N S 550

INDEX 574

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 606

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS 607

M E T R I C E Q U I VA L E N T C H A R T S 608

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BASICS

EQUIPMENT Saucepot This wide, deep pot can be used for


soups and stews. A 5-quart saucepot that has a tight-
A well-equipped kitchen is a must for cooking deli-
fitting lid is versatile.
cious meals. You can accomplish a lot with a good set
Stockpot A tall, narrow, 6- to 8-quart stockpot
of knives and a few well-chosen pots and pans. Just re-
can be called into action to cook many foods, includ-
member, you often get what you pay for. High-quality
ing pasta, soups, stocks, lobster, and corn on the cob.
utensils, made from durable materials, last longer, so
buy the best you can afford.
Stainless steel is easy to clean and not too heavy,
but it isn’t a very good conductor of heat; an aluminum
or copper core is often added to improve its heat-
conducting properties. By contrast, copper is an excel-
lent conductor of heat and copper pots are gorgeous,
but the pots must be polished and can be very heavy.
Cast iron and aluminum are inexpensive and excellent
heat conductors. Unfortunately, they react to acidic in-
gredients, such as tomatoes and wine, but they are also
available enamel-coated.

ON THE STOVE
Here is a list of basic pots and pans that every kitchen
should be equipped with:
Saucepan Three or four saucepans with lids,
ranging from 1 to 4 quarts. They should be between
31⁄ 2 to 4 inches deep, so you can stir without spilling
food over the side.
Dutch oven These pots are ideal for braising
roasts and stews on top of the stove as well as in the
oven. A 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven is the most useful.
Skillets You’ll need at least three sizes: small (8- Basic cooking equipment: steamer, saucepans, grill pan, Dutch
inch), medium (9- to 10-inch), and large (12-inch). oven, thermometers, skillets, double boiler

BASICS 7

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Double boiler A saucepan topped with another


covered saucepan; food is gently cooked in the top pan
by water simmering in the bottom pan.
Grill pan This ridged skillet acts as a stovetop
grill. Food can be cooked with little or no added fat;
the ridges allow any rendered fat to drip away as the
food cooks.
Griddle This flat metal pan can be heated on top
of the stove to cook pancakes, French toast, cheese
sandwiches, and bacon. Electric models (some have
nonstick surfaces) are also available.

IN THE OVEN
Some of the most popular materials for bakeware in-
clude enameled cast iron (easy to clean and a good heat
conductor), enameled steel (a reasonably priced, light-
weight choice for roasting pans), stainless steel (moder-
ately heavy and durable), aluminum (often laminated
to create a nonstick surface), heat-resistant glass (a pop- Basic baking and roasting pans: metal loaf pan, oval baking
ular, inexpensive choice), and glass-ceramic (which can dish, jelly-roll pan, cookie sheet, roasting pan and rack,
go from oven to freezer). Earthenware and stoneware round cake pan, square baking pan, springform pan
are good for long, slow baking, like stews or beans.
Cake pans that have a dull heat-absorbing finish, Bundt pan Sometimes called a fluted tube pan. A
such as aluminum, produce the best cakes. Avoid shiny 10- inch, 12- cup size is good for most needs.
metals, such as stainless steel, which reflect the heat, Cake pan Layer cakes are usually baked in 8- or
and dark metal pans, which absorb heat too quickly. 9-inch round pans (you’ll need two or three of each);
When it comes to baking bread, choose heavy alu- baking pans are used for rectangular and square cakes.
minum or dark metal pans for the best texture and a Casserole Round, oval, square, or rectangular, this
well-browned crust. lidded dish can be glass, ceramic, or enameled metal.
Cookie sheets For the best air circulation and for
How to Measure a Pan
even browning, choose shiny, heavy metal cookie
To measure a baking dish or pan, measure across the
sheets with one or two slightly raised sides. Double-
top of the dish from inside edge to inside edge. Mea-
thick insulated pans protect against overbrowning.
sure the depth on the inside of the dish from the
Nonstick surfaces are another option.
bottom to the rim.
Custard cups Purchase glass cups or ceramic
Essential Bakeware Roundup ramekins with a 6-ounce capacity.
Baking dish A large, fairly shallow oval or rectan- Jelly-roll pan Use a standard aluminum 151⁄ 2" by
gular dish with sides about 2 inches high; usually glass 1
10 ⁄ 2" pan for jelly-roll cakes.
or ceramic. It’s good to have a variety of sizes, but 10" Loaf pan Standard sizes are 9" by 5" and 81⁄ 2" by
by 15", 13" by 9", and 11" by 7" are the most com- 1
4 ⁄ 2". There is a substantial volume difference between
monly used. the two.
Baking pan Similar to a baking dish but made of Muffin tins To bake muffins and cupcakes, use
metal; the sides are 11⁄ 2 to 2 inches high. You’ll want an standard 21⁄ 2" by 11⁄4" muffin-pan cups; 13⁄ 4" by 1"
8-inch square, a 9-inch square, and a 13" by 9" pan. mini muffin-pan cups are nice to have too.

8 BASICS

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UTENSIL CENTRAL
HIGH-ALTITUDE COOKING In addition to pots and pans, every kitchen needs other
helpful tools. Here are some we find indispensable:
The recipes in this book have been perfected for use at
Bristle brushes Use one for cleaning pots and one
sea level. At higher altitudes, adjustments in the cooking
for scrubbing vegetables.
time, temperature, and ingredients could be necessary.
Colander Choose a large colander with a stable
At sea level, water boils at 212°F. With each
footed base; the more holes it has, the more quickly
additional 500 feet of altitude, the boiling point drops
food can drain.
1°F. Even though the boiling point is lower, it takes
Cooling racks If you bake a lot of cookies, you
longer to generate the heat required to cook food.
should have at least two large wire racks. Bakers who
Therefore, at high altitudes, foods boiled in water
like to make layer cakes should have three or four small
(such as pasta and beans) will take longer to come to
round racks.
a boil and will require longer cooking times than our
Corkscrew A tool used to remove the corks from
recipes suggest. The processing times for canning
wine bottles. They are available at most kitchenware
foods and the blanching times for freezing vegetables
stores in a range of prices.
will vary, too.
Cutting boards Plastic boards are lightweight and
At high altitudes, cake recipes may need slight
easy to clean in the dishwasher, but wooden boards are
adjustments in the proportions of flour, leavening, liquid,
extremely durable and don’t attract or retain any more
eggs, etc. These adjustments will vary from recipe to
bacteria than plastic ones.
recipe, and no set guidelines can be given. Many cake
Grater This flat or box-shaped tool can grate (small
mixes now carry special directions on the label for high-
holes), shred (large holes), or slice (large slots). We love
altitude preparation.
Microplane® graters for their sharpness and ease of use.
High altitudes can also affect the rising of doughs
Measuring cups For liquids, use clear glass or
and batters, deep-frying, candy making, and other
plastic cups with pouring spouts. It’s useful to have two
aspects of food preparation. For complete information
sizes: a 1-cup measure for smaller amounts and a 2- or
and special recipes for your area, call or write to the
4-cup measure for larger amounts. To measure dry
home agent at your county cooperative extension office
ingredients accurately, use metal or plastic cups that
or to the home economics department of your local
come in nested sets of 1⁄4 cup, 1⁄ 3 cup, 1⁄ 2 cup, and 1 cup.
utility company or state university.
Measuring spoons Come in nesting sets; stainless-
steel spoons are the most durable. Most sets include 1⁄4
teaspoon, 1⁄ 2 teaspoon, 1 teaspoon, and 1 tablespoon.
Pie plate The standard size is 9" by 1"; deep-dish Mixing bowls Stainless-steel bowls are the most
pie plates are 91⁄ 2" by 11⁄ 2" or 91⁄ 2" by 2". Glass, dark versatile because they react quickly to changes in tem-
metal, and aluminum pans yield crisp, nicely browned perature. Glass or ceramic bowls work well to insulate
piecrusts. rising yeast dough.
Roasting pan A large deep pan typically made of Rolling pins Heavy pins, either hardwood or
stainless steel, enameled steel, or aluminum. A rectan- marble, work best for rolling out dough.
gular roasting pan with a rack is the most useful. Sieve/strainer A wire sieve can be used to sift in-
Springform pan 9" by 3" and 10" by 21⁄ 2" are the gredients or strain liquids. Buy a few sizes with differ-
ones most often called for. ent mesh gauges.
Tart pan A shallow metal pan with fluted sides Spatulas To turn food, use heatproof or metal
and a removable bottom that comes in many shapes spatulas (pancake turners). Rubber spatulas are used for
and sizes: 9" by 1" and 11" by 1" round pans are the mixing and folding; they’re not heatproof. Silicon spat-
most common. ulas are heatproof. And a long, narrow metal spatula is
Tube pan Comes in 9- and 10-inch diameters. a must for frosting cakes.

BASICS 9

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Thermometers Meat thermometers are vital when Melon baller Besides scooping perfect globes of
roasting meats and poultry, and many options are avail- melon (and potatoes), this tool neatly cores halved ap-
able. Instant-read thermometers, which register up to ples and pears.
220°F, are very accurate. Probe-type thermometers give a Mortar and pestle Use for grinding spices and
digital reading on a unit that is placed outside the oven. herbs. You crush with the pestle (the batlike tool) in
Candy thermometers register temperatures up to 400°F the mortar (the bowl).
and can be used for candy making and deep-frying. An Pastry bag For decorating cakes and pies, form-
oven thermometer is the best way to accurately check the ing spritz cookies, and creating beautifully shaped pas-
temperature of an oven, because control dials and ther- tries. Disposable plastic pastry bags don’t retain odors
mostats are notoriously inaccurate. Optional, but nice to and flavors as plastic-lined canvas bags do.
have, are freezer and refrigerator thermometers. Pastry blender This tool’s metal wires easily cut
Tongs Spring-action tongs are the best for picking cold fat into flour for tart dough, pastry dough, bis-
up foods and for turning meats without piercing them. cuits, and scones.
Vegetable peeler Swivel-blade peelers remove less Pastry brush Use to brush dough with melted
peel than fixed-blade peelers; they conform to the butter or beaten egg and to apply glazes; also great for
shape of the food. dusting excess flour from dough. When buying, look
Whisk Use the right whisk for the job. A medium- for well-anchored natural bristle brushes in widths of
size whisk is good for sauces, vinaigrettes, and batters. 1 to 11⁄ 2 inches.
Flat paddle-shaped whisks are perfect for getting into Potato masher Perfect for cooked potatoes and
the corners of roasting pans when making pan gravies. other root vegetables and for turning cooked beans
Large balloon-shaped whisks are ideal for beating air into a chunky puree.
into heavy cream or egg whites. Ruler Keep a ruler in the kitchen for measuring
pans and pastry shapes as well as for other tasks.
Nice-to-Have Extras
Salad spinner Uses centrifugal force to dry greens,
Adjustable-blade slicer Use to slice, cut into
preventing dressed salads from getting watered down.
matchstick strips, and waffle-cut. Adjustable-blade
Skewers A must for kabobs. Always soak wooden
slicers range from the classic and pricey metal mando-
and bamboo skewers in water for 30 minutes before
line to lightweight plastic models that do a great job
using to prevent them from burning on the grill.
for much less money.
Steamer The collapsible metal style easily fits into
Apple corer This cylindrical tool neatly cores
various-sized pots and pans. There is also a version that
whole apples as well as pears. Buy the largest size be-
consists of a saucepan with a perforated bowllike insert
cause it will easily remove all the core.
that allows the steam to penetrate. Bamboo steamers fit
Egg beater This hand-powered mixer can also be
into woks.
used for whipping cream. It’s low-tech but useful.
Zester Pulled across the peel of citrus fruit, it re-
Ice-cream maker Available in manual and electric
moves the colorful, flavorful outer layer, leaving the
models; some have insulated liners that must be frozen
bitter pith behind.
overnight.
Juicer Use for extracting fruit and vegetable juices. Sharpening Up on Knives
One of the most practical models is a simple ridged The importance of good knives cannot be overempha-
cone that easily juices citrus fruits. Small electric ver- sized. Poorly made knives make cutting and chopping
sions are great when you need a large quantity of juice. tiresome work, while good knives will enable you to
Kitchen scissors For cutting kitchen string, snip- whip through these jobs with ease. If you take good
ping fresh herbs, and trimming artichoke leaves. care of your fine knives, they’ll last a lifetime.
Shears, which are larger and spring-loaded, make cut- High-carbon stainless steel, an alloy that contains a
ting up poultry simple. Buy sturdy models made of large proportion of carbon, makes excellent knives that
stainless steel. sharpen well. Some cooks prefer carbon-steel knives

10 BASICS

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because they hold a very sharp edge, but they also cor- • Thin-bladed boning knife (for trimming fat and cut-
rode and stain easily. Knives that purport to never need ting poultry and meat)
sharpening have two drawbacks: The blades are finely • Slicing knife (for cutting thin slices of meat). It has a
serrated, so their ridges can tear food instead of cutting scalloped edge and a round tip, so you won’t poke a
it. When the knives eventually do need sharpening, it hole in the roast
isn’t possible. • Heavy cleaver (for cutting up poultry)
Before buying a knife, hold it in your hand to see
if it feels comfortable. The best knives are made of a
solid piece of metal (called the tang) that goes all the COOKING BASICS
way through the handle. The extra weight of the tang If you master just a few fundamental cooking skills,
gives a knife better balance. you will be assured success in the kitchen. Measuring
Using the proper knife for each kitchen chore is ingredients may be a simple task, but if performed
more efficient and will make the job easier, ultimately carelessly, it may mean the difference between success
saving you time in preparation. These knives should be and failure. Learn how to chop, slice, and cut properly
in every well-run kitchen: and your meal preparation time will be reduced. And
• Chef ’s knife (for slicing, chopping, and mincing) remember, as with other skills, practice makes perfect.
• Paring knife (for fruits and vegetables)
• Long serrated knife (for slicing breads, cakes, and
thin-skinned fruits and vegetables) MEASURING BASICS
• Carving knife (for slicing meats). It often comes in a Measure ingredients carefully, and you’ll get consistent
set with a carving fork. results each time you prepare a recipe. Every kitchen
needs liquid measuring cups, dry measuring cups, and
measuring spoons.
• For liquids, use clear glass measuring cups with pouring
spouts. Place the cup on a level surface and add the de-
sired amount of liquid; bend down to check the accu-
racy of the measure at eye level (do not lift up the cup).
• For dry ingredients, use standard-size metal or plastic
cups that can be leveled off.
• Nesting sets of graduated measuring spoons are used
to measure both liquid and dry ingredients.

We use the “spoon-and-sweep” method for meas-


uring dry ingredients such as flour, sugar, and cocoa.
To measure flour, for example, stir it with a fork or
whisk to aerate it (flour tends to pack down during
storage). Lightly spoon the flour into a dry measuring
Basic measuring cups and spoons: 1-, 2-, and 4-cup glass
measuring cups, set of dry measuring cups, set of measuring cup to overflowing, then level it off with the straight
spoons edge of a knife or narrow metal spatula: Don’t pack the

BASICS 11

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flour or shake the cup. If a recipe calls for 1 cup sifted move the knife through the food until you have the
flour, sift the flour, then spoon it into the cup. If you desired size.
need 1 cup flour, sifted, measure the flour and then Finely chop To chop food into very small irregu-
sift. Do not “dip and sweep” (use the measuring cup to lar pieces, less than 1⁄ 4 inch.
scoop the flour); it packs too much flour into the cup. Mince To cut into tiny irregular pieces, less than
1
Butter and margarine come in premarked sticks, so ⁄ 8 inch. We use this term only for ginger.
there’s no need to use a measuring cup. Use the mark- Cube To cut into 1⁄ 2-inch blocks: First cut the
ings on the wrapper to measure the desired amount, food lengthwise into 1⁄ 2-inch-thick slices. Stack the
then cut it off. One 4-ounce (1⁄4 pound) stick of butter slices and cut into 1⁄ 2-inch-wide sticks. Then cut cross-
or margarine equals 8 tablespoons or 1⁄ 2 cup. wise into 1⁄ 2-inch cubes.
Ingredients such as vegetable shortening, butter, Matchstick strips First, cut the food into slices 2
and brown sugar, should be firmly packed (pressed) inches long and 1⁄ 8 inch thick. Stack the slices; cut
into dry measuring cups or spoons and then leveled off. lengthwise into 1⁄ 8-inch-wide sticks.
Before measuring sticky ingredients, such as corn
syrup or molasses, coat the measuring cup or spoon
with vegetable oil or nonstick cooking spray, so the
item can slide out easily.
If you have any doubts about the volume of a bak-
ing dish or casserole, pour a measured amount of water
into the dish, right up to the top. Or double-check a
baking pan’s dimensions with a ruler; even a 1-inch
difference can affect your baking success.

CUTTING BASICS FOOD SAFETY


For the best results, use a AND STORAGE
chef ’s knife, and sharpen it Use these guidelines to help keep the food in your
on a steel before each use. To kitchen wholesome and safe to eat.
prevent the cutting board
from slipping, place a damp
RULES OF FOOD SAFETY
towel underneath. Hold the
knife handle in your right hand near the blade. Your Keep It Clean
thumb should be on the left side of the handle and Good old-fashioned cleanliness is the best safeguard
your fingers close together and wrapped around the against harmful bacteria. Keep a clean kitchen. Always
other side of the handle. wash and dry your hands before handling food. Fre-
In this book, we coarsely chop, slice, cube, cut into quently wash kitchen towels, dishcloths, and sponges.
matchstick strips, finely chop, and mince. Here’s how: Rinse fruits and vegetables thoroughly before eating.
Coarsely chop To cut food into 1⁄ 2- to 3⁄ 4-inch Sterilize cutting boards once a week in a solution of
irregular pieces: When chopping, the tip of the knife 1 tablespoon bleach per 1 gallon water.
remains on the cutting board; the knife handle is raised
Avoid Cross-Contamination
and lowered in a rocking motion while the knife is
Don’t put cooked meat (or any ready-to-eat food) on a
moved from left to right. If necessary, tuck under the
plate that has been in contact with raw meat, poultry,
fingers of your left hand and carefully push the food
or fish. It’s a good idea to have several cutting boards:
toward the blade.
one for raw meats, poultry, and fish; one for vegetables
Chop To cut food into small irregular pieces
and cheese; and perhaps a third for fruits, nuts, and
about the size of peas: Roughly cut up the food, then
chocolate.

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Cook It Right
To kill harmful bacteria that may be present in raw eggs, HOW LONG WILL IT KEEP?
fish, poultry, and meat, it’s essential to cook these foods
thoroughly. The United States Department of Agricul- Foods frozen for longer than the recommended times
ture recommends cooking them to at least 160°F. At this aren't harmful—they just won't be at their peak flavor
temperature, however, food (especially meat) may be and texture.
cooked beyond your preference. If you cook it less, some FOOD TIME IN FREEZER
risk is involved, so the choice is ultimately a personal (0°F)
one. An instant-read thermometer is the easiest way to Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 months
Butter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 9 months
check for doneness. To check visually, follow these
Cheese, hard (Cheddar, Swiss) . . . . . . 6 months
guidelines: Cook red meat to at least medium-rare, pork
Cheese, soft (Brie, Bel Paese) . . . . . . . 6 months
until the juices run clear and the meat retains just a trace Cream, half-and-half . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 months
of pink, poultry until the juices run clear, fish just until Sour cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . don't feeze
opaque throughout, and egg yolks and whites until Eggs (raw yolks, whites). . . . . . . . . . . 1 year
thickened and set. Always cook ground meat until no Frankfurters (opened or . . . . . . . . . . 1 to 2 months
pink remains. When cooking egg-based sauces, be sure unopened packages)
the final temperature is no lower than 160°F. Luncheon meats (opened or . . . . . . . . 1 to 2 months
unopened packages)
Keep Hot Foods Hot and Cold Foods Cold Bacon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 month
The safe zones for storing food are below 40°F and Sausage, raw, links or patties . . . . . . . 1 to 2 months
above 140°F. Keep food below or above these tempera- Ham, fully cooked (whole, half, slices). 1 to 2 months
tures, and you’ll discourage bacterial growth (bacteria Ground or stew meat. . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 to 4 months
love a moist, warm environment). Don’t leave food out Steaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 12 months
Chops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 to 6 months
at room temperature for longer than two hours. In hot
Roasts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 12 months
weather, protein foods such as chicken, egg salad, or
Chicken or turkey, whole . . . . . . . . . . 1 year
any food containing mayonnaise should not be left out Chicken or turkey, pieces . . . . . . . . . . 9 months
of the refrigerator for more than one hour. It’s also un- Casseroles, cooked, poultry . . . . . . . . 4 to 6 months
wise to cook food in stages. For example, don’t partially Casseroles, cooked, meat. . . . . . . . . . 2 to 3 months
cook fish, poultry, or meat, then return to it later to Soups and stews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 to 3 months
finish cooking. Even when food is stored in the refrig- Fish, lean (cod, flounder, haddock) . . 6 months
erator between the cooking stages, safe temperatures Fish, fatty (bluefish, mackerel, salmon) 2 to 3 months
Fish, cooked . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 6 months
may not be maintained and bacteria could develop.
Fish, smoked . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 months in
Treat Leftovers with Respect vacuum pack
Refrigerate leftovers as soon as possible. Divide large Shrimp, scallops, squid,
amounts among smaller containers for quicker cooling. shucked clams, mussels, oysters . . . . . 3 to 6 months
Pizza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 to 2 months
Date all leftovers so you know how long you’ve had
Breads and rolls, yeast. . . . . . . . . . . . 3 to 6 month
them. If you have any doubt about a food’s freshness,
Breads, quick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 to 3 months
throw it out. Cakes, unfrosted . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 months
Cheesecakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 to 3 months
Cookies, baked . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 months
R E F R I G E R AT O R K N O W - H O W Cookie dough, raw . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 to 3 months
Don’t take your refrigerator for granted. Help it do its Pies, fruit, unbaked . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 months
job by following a few simple rules: Pies, custard or meringue-topped . . . .don't freeze
Be sure the temperature of your refrigerator remains Piecrust, raw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 to 3 months
Nuts, salted . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 8 months
between 33° and 40°F; use a refrigerator thermometer
Nuts, unsalted . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 12 months
for extra insurance. To prevent spoilage, store foods on a

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rotating basis: Place newly stored items at the back of Vinegar Unopened it will keep indefinitely. The
the shelves and move older items to the front. sediment that sometimes appears is harmless; strain off
Store meat, fish, and poultry on a plate to catch the vinegar, if you wish. Once opened store for up to
any drips; if you don’t plan to cook them within two six months. Vinegar with added flavorings, such as
days, freeze them immediately. Never store eggs in the herbs, should be strained into a clean bottle as soon as
open egg compartment in the refrigerator door; it’s too the vinegar level drops below the top of the ingredients.
warm. Eggs should be kept in their original container
to prevent them from absorbing the odors of other
foods. For this same reason, store cheese, cream, milk, STORING FRESH HERBS
yogurt, margarine, and butter tightly closed in their Most fresh herbs are highly perishable, so buy them in
containers or packaging or wrap airtight. small quantities. To store for a few days, immerse the
roots or stems in 2 inches of water. Cover with a plas-
tic bag; refrigerate.
PA N T RY S T O R A G E To dry fresh herbs (this works best with sturdy herbs
Unless otherwise noted, these pantry staples fare best like rosemary and thyme), rinse lightly and pat dry with
in a cool, dry place. For more information on ingredi- paper towels. Hang them upside down, in bunches, in a
ents such as flour, pasta, and grains, see the specific dry, dark place. When the leaves become brittle (it typi-
chapter introductions. cally takes from a few days up to one week), pick them
Baking powder Once opened, it will keep for up off and discard the stems. Store the dried leaves in a
to six months. To test its effectiveness, add 1⁄ 2 teaspoon tightly covered opaque container in a cool, dry place.
to 1⁄ 2 cup warm water; it should bubble vigorously. To freeze herbs, rinse lightly, pat dry, and remove
Bread crumbs Store dried bread crumbs for up to the stems. Place them in plastic containers or heavy-
six months or, for better flavor, refrigerate for up to duty zip-tight plastic bags. When frozen, herbs darken,
two years. but their flavor remains. There’s no need to thaw
Honey Lasts indefinitely; if it crystallizes, remove frozen herbs; add them directly to the pot. Or place a
the lid and place the jar in a bowl of hot water. Stir few herbs (leaves only) in each section of an ice cube
until the crystals dissolve. tray. Add enough water to cover; freeze. Unmold and
Hot pepper sauce Refrigerate after opening. store the cubes in heavy-duty zip-tight plastic bags.
Olive oil Keep in a cool, dark place for up to six Add the cubes to simmering soups, sauces, or stews.
months. Don’t buy more than you can use; it can turn
rancid, especially if stored in a warm place.
Pancake syrup It will keep for up to nine months TA K I N G F O O D O N T H E R O A D
(if stored longer, the syrup will thin and the flavor will Whenever food is removed from the refrigerator, it can
weaken). easily warm to temperatures that encourage bacterial
Peanut butter Unopened it will hold for a year in growth. But with some planning, you can avoid poten-
your cupboard. Refrigerate after opening to keep it tial problems.
from becoming rancid. For picnics, use two small coolers rather than one
Soy sauce Unopened it will keep for one year. large one. Use one cooler for nonperishables, such as
Once opened, refrigerate to keep for an additional year. fruit and beverages, and the other for perishable items,
Spices and dried herbs Store in opaque contain- such as meats, poultry, salads, and cheese. Remember:
ers in a cool, dark place (not near the stove) for up to A cooler cannot make foods colder than they already
one year. After that, herbs and spices begin to lose their are, so chill foods thoroughly before placing them in
flavor. It’s a good idea to write the date of purchase on the cooler. To preserve the chill, don’t open the lid for
the label. Sniff before using: If the aroma is weak, dis- longer or more often than necessary.
card and buy a new supply. Double-wrap meat and poultry in zip-tight plastic
Vegetable oil Store in a cool, dark place for up to bags so the juices don’t leak out and contaminate other
six months. foods. Pack perishable items, like meat, next to the ice

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packs. Delicate items, such as green salads and slaws,


should be stored away from the ice to prevent freezing. U N D E R S TA N D I N G F O O D L A B E L S
Thermal carrying bags are the most convenient
way to transport hot foods, but a cooler can also main- Food labels help you make informed choices about the
tain the temperature of hot foods for a few hours. If foods to include in your diet.
you are bringing a hot dish to a party, heat it until pip- The Percent Daily Values reflect the percentage of the
ing hot. Wrap the covered dish in a thick layer of news- recommended daily amount of a nutrient in a serving
paper to insulate it and keep the heat in, then place in (based on 2,000 calories daily). You can “budget” your
a cooler that isn’t much bigger than the dish. intake of nutrients by adding up these percentages. For
example, the label below shows a food containing 13
percent of the daily value for fat. If the next food you
EATING WELL eat has a 10 percent daily value for fat, you’ve already
The message is simple: Eat well to stay well. The good had 23 percent of your total fat allowance for the day.
news is that you don’t need a graduate degree in nutri- When it comes to fat, saturated fat, sodium, and
tion to eat healthfully on a daily basis. What follows cholesterol, try to keep the daily values below 100
are some guidelines and information to help you make percent. Aim for 100 percent of fiber, vitamins A and
informed decisions about what you and your family C, calcium, and iron . (Other vitamins and minerals
should eat to maintain a balanced diet. may also appear on labels.)
The Daily Values footnote includes a chart that shows
some Daily Values for diets containing 2,000 and 2,500
D I E TA RY G U I D E L I N E S F O R calories. Your own daily values may be higher or lower.
AMERICANS Food labels are required to have an ingredients list.
The ingredients are listed in descending order accord-
• Consume a variety of nutrient-dense foods and bev-
ing to their weight. This enables you to easily discern
erages within the basic food groups. Choose foods
which food products contain larger amounts of ingredi-
that limit your intake of saturated and trans fats, cho-
ents that are healthful.
lesterol, added sugars, salt, and alcohol.

Nutrition Facts
Serving Size 2 pieces (29g)
USING THE NUTRITIONAL Servings Per Container 15
VA L U E S I N T H I S B O O K
Amount Per Serving
At the bottom of each recipe, you’ll find nutritional Calories 150 Calories from Fat 80
information. To aid you in using this information, see % Daily Value*
“Nutrients: The Big Three” (page 16) and “Understand- Total Fat 8g 13%
ing Food Labels” (right) for the recommended daily Saturated Fat 5g 27%
nutrient levels. Aim to balance higher-fat recipes with Cholesterol 25mg 8%
leaner accompaniments. For example, serve lasagna Sodium 115mg 5%
Total Carbohydrate 18g 6%
with a green salad tossed with lowfat dressing, skim
Dietary Fiber 0g 0%
milk, and fresh fruit for dessert.
Sugars 6g
• Our nutritional calculations do not include any
Protein 2g
optional ingredients or garnishes.
Vitamin A 0% • Vitamin C 0%
• When alternative ingredients are given (such as
Calcium 2% • Iron 2%
margarine), our calculations are based on the first
* Percent Daily Values are based on a 2,000 calorie
item listed.
diet.
• Unless otherwise noted, whole milk has been used.

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• Engage in regular physical activity and reduce seden- along with the disease-fighting antioxidants in the
tary activities to promote health, psychological well- bran. The latest government recommendations are that
being, and a healthy body weight. at least half of your grains should be whole grain (see
• Consume 2 cups of fruit and 21⁄ 2 cups of vegetables “How to Spot a Whole Grain”).
(dark green and orange-colored vegetables, legumes, The starch and sugar in carbohydrates supply the
and starchy vegetables) each day for a 2,000-calorie body with the energy it needs for normal body func-
diet, adjusting the amount as needed. tions, including brain functions, heartbeat, breathing,
• Consume three or more 1-ounce-equivalent servings and digestion, as well as for exercise such as walking,
of whole grains each day. running, and cycling. When carbohydrates are di-
• Consume 3 cups of fat-free or low-fat milk or equiv- gested, they become blood sugar (glucose), which is
alent dairy products per day. then used as fuel in our bodies. In general, the less
• Derive less than 10 percent of your calories from sat- sugar you eat the better. This doesn’t, however, include
urated fat and less than 300mg of cholesterol per day. the naturally occurring sugar in fruit, milk, or yogurt.
Avoid trans fats. You need to limit the added sugar that comes from
• Keep your total fat intake between 20 and 35 percent sweeteners, including white sugar, brown sugar, honey,
of your calories, with most fats coming from polyun- maple syrup, high-fructose corn syrup, dextrose, su-
saturated and monounsaturated sources, such as fish, crose, fruit juice concentrate, and other sweeteners. Re-
nuts, and vegetable oils. member that starch is an important part of a balanced
• Choose fiber-rich fruits, vegetables, and whole grains diet. Look for good carbs, such as whole-wheat pasta,
each day. whole-grain polenta, buckwheat, and oatmeal.
• Consume less than 2,300mg (about 1 teaspoon) of Unfortunately, it is not always easy to tell if a prod-
sodium each day. uct is a whole-grain–rich food. So here are some clues:
• Women who choose to drink alcohol should limit • Look for the word whole in the ingredients list.
themselves to one drink per day; men should limit • See where the whole grain falls in the list of ingredi-
themselves to no more than two drinks per day. ents. Remember that ingredients are listed in order of
For the complete recommendations, go to www.health- their weight: If a whole grain is listed first and is the
ierus.gov/dieteryguidelines. only grain, there is a lot of whole grain in the product.
If the first ingredient is wheat flour (which is really
white flour), followed by some sort of sweetener, then
NUTRIENTS:
whole-wheat flour is not the dominant grain.
THE BIG THREE • Check the amount of dietary fiber. In general, 100-
Our bodies need three essential nutrients: carbohy- percent whole-grain products should have at least
drates, proteins, and fats. 2 grams of fiber per ounce (29 grams) or per 80 calo-
Carbohydrates The right kind of carbohydrates is ries; crackers at least 3 grams fiber per ounce; pasta at
the mainstay of a well-balanced diet. “Good” carbohy- least 5 grams of fiber per 2 ounces dried. For more
drates include fruits, vegetables, and whole grains. Car- information, go to www.wholegrainscouncil.org.
bohydrates come in many forms. They can be made up Proteins The body needs protein to produce new
of dietary fiber, starch, or sugar. Diets rich in dietary body tissue. They are also a great weight-loss friend, as
fiber have been shown to have a reduced risk of coro- protein helps keep you feeling full for hours after eat-
nary heart disease, among other benefits, and research ing. Too much protein, however, is unhealthy; it can
indicates that whole-grain eaters are thinner than peo- stress the kidneys, and if it comes from fatty meat, it is
ple who eat few whole-grain foods. Fiber, which is also filling you with saturated fat. Beef, chicken, fish,
found in the bran layer of some grains, including pork, lamb, and other meats and tofu and other soy
whole wheat, is credited with some of the health bene- products are the richest sources of protein. Beans
fits of whole grains. When whole wheat is processed to (black, pinto, etc.), lentils, cheese, milk, and yogurt are
make white flour, the healthful bran layer is removed, the next highest. A small amount of protein can also be

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found in grains, bread, and other starches and in veg- semisolids like margarine and shortening. On the in-
etables. Ideally, your plate should look like this: half- gredients list these oils appear as partially hydrogenated
filled with vegetables or fruits, a quarter with starches, oils or shortening and are reflected in the trans fat total
and another quarter with protein-rich foods (and a lit- on the Nutrition Facts label. It is important to keep
tle fat). your intake of trans fat low. Here are some tips:
Fats The government guideline for fat consump- • Use canola or olive oil whenever possible.
tion is 20 to 35 percent of your total daily calories, • Limit—or avoid—processed foods made with par-
which is a wide range. Much more important than the tially hydrogenated oils, or with oils high in saturated
total fat is the amount of saturated and trans fat in your fat (palm, palm kernel, coconut) or with butter.
diet. Here’s what you need to know about these fats: • Use “0 trans” or “trans fat-free” margarine.
When an excess of saturated fat is consumed, it
raises your blood cholesterol level, increasing your risk HOW TO INTERPRET
of heart disease and stroke. Saturated fat is found natu-
rally in foods, but it is especially concentrated in fatty PA C K A G E I N F O R M AT I O N
animal-based foods, such as butter and chicken skin While the Nutrition Facts label can tell you a lot about
and in some oils, such as palm and coconut. Even a food, you need to check the ingredients list to see
“good” oils like olive and canola contain a little satu- what you’re really eating. Is your breakfast cereal made
rated fat, so you can’t avoid it entirely. For a heart- with whole grains or does your favorite salad dressing
healthy diet you should derive less than 10 percent of contain oil that is high in saturated fat, for example.
your total calories from saturated fat, which is a maxi- By law, ingredients lists must be ordered by weight.
mum of 15 grams of saturated fat daily, based on a The heaviest ingredient goes first, followed by the next
1,500-calorie diet. heaviest, and so on. It is not a good sign if sugar is the
Even worse than saturated fat is trans fat, which first ingredient in a cereal or when bad fats like partially
not only raises the LDL (“bad cholesterol”) but also hydrogenated soybean and cottonseed oils are the third
lowers the HDL (“good cholesterol”). It is formed by a ingredient listed on a can of biscuit dough.
process called hydrogenation, which turns oils into

HOW TO SPOT A WHOLE GRAIN

To help you when shopping for whole grains, here are the words you should look for in the ingredients list:

It’s a whole grain if it’s called: It’s not a whole grain if it’s called:
Brown (also black, red, purple) rice Corn flour or cornmeal
Buckwheat Enriched flour
Bulgur (cracked wheat) Multigrain (this means various grains, not necessarily whole)
Millet Pumpernickel
Quinoa Rice or rice flour
Sorghum Rye flour or rye
Triticale Stone-ground wheat (it needs to say “stone-ground whole
Whole-grain corn wheat”)
Whole oats and oatmeal Unbleached wheat flour
Whole rye Wheat or wheat flour
Whole spelt Wheat germ (not a whole grain but very good for you)
Whole wheat Whole barley (pearl barley; not a whole grain but very good
Wild rice for you)

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Below is a list of common phrases found on many food KEEP IT LIGHT


packages:
In general, animal products are higher in fat than plant
Cholesterol free or No cholesterol Don’t be
foods, but it’s not necessary to cut out all meat and
fooled by the words No cholesterol written across the
dairy products to keep your fat intake reasonable. Low-
label of a jar of peanut butter or bottle of canola oil. If
fat dairy foods, lean and well-trimmed meat, and skin-
you turn to the Nutrition Facts label, you’ll see that no
less poultry provide the same amounts of vitamins and
brand of either food has cholesterol—and never did!
minerals as their fattier counterparts. Skinless poultry,
Only foods of animal origin contain cholesterol. But
fish, dry beans, and split peas are the “slimmest” foods
manufacturers hope you don’t know that.
in this category. By removing the skin from poultry,
Light This word is used to describe fat content,
you reduce the fat by almost one half. Most seafood is
taste, or color. If the manufacturer is describing the fat
low in fat and also contains beneficial omega-3 oils,
content as “light,” the product has at least 50 percent
which have been linked to lowering blood cholesterol.
less fat than the original. The label must also say “50%
Dry beans also provide the body with fiber, which is
less fat than our regular product.” “Light” olive oil, on
necessary for digestion.
the other hand, describes the oil’s color. The oil is as
You can enjoy red meat if you choose lean cuts and
caloric as regular olive oil but has been processed to re-
trim away all the visible fat (marbled fat cannot be
move some of its flavor. A muffin mix can say “light and
trimmed away). Here are some good choices:
fluffy” as a way to describe its texture or consistency.
• Beef eye round, top round, tenderloin, top sirloin,
Lowfat or Fat free Lowfat products must contain
flank steak, top loin, ground beef. Choose ground
3 grams or less fat per serving and fat-free products
sirloin; it’s 90 to 93 percent lean.
must have less than 0.5 grams of fat per serving. But
• Veal cutlets (from the leg) and loin chops
check the number of calories—that number could be
• Pork tenderloin, boneless top loin roast, loin chops,
very high. It is easy to gain lots of weight eating fat-free
and boneless sirloin chops
cookies because they are loaded with sugar.
• Lamb, boneless leg (shank portions), loin roast, loin
Low sodium or Light in sodium This means that
chops, leg cubes for kabobs
the sodium was cut by at least 50 percent over the orig-
inal product. Be careful when using a “low” version of Trimming the Fat
a super-high-sodium food such as soy sauce or soup. Here are some suggestions to make trimming excess fat
You can still end up consuming a lot of sodium. Check from your diet easier:
the numbers on the Nutrition Facts label. • Choose lean cuts of meat and trim off all the visible
Sugar-free, No added sugars, Without added fat before cooking. Remove skin from poultry before
sugars A sugar-free chocolate candy may not contain or after cooking.
a speck of sugar, but it’s still got plenty of fat and calo- • Broil meat on a rack so the fat can drip away.
ries. Be sure to check out the Nutrition Facts label to • Substitute ground chicken or ground turkey for
know how many calories and grams of saturated fat ground beef. Look for ground turkey breast or
you’re consuming. chicken breast; otherwise, it may contain skin and
Sweetened with fruit juice, Fruit juice sweet- therefore have as much fat as ground beef.
ener, or Fruit juice concentrate These sweeteners are • Substitute protein-packed dried legumes, like beans
made by reducing fruit juice—usually grape juice— and lentils, for meat in casseroles.
into a sticky sweetener. These sweeteners are not nutri- • Chill soups and stews overnight so you can remove
tious; they are just like sugar. all the hardened fat from the surface.
• Be skimpy with fat. Use nonstick pans and nonstick
cooking spray, or “sauté” in a small amount of broth
or water. Don’t just pour oil into a skillet; it’s easy to
add too much. Measure or use a pastry brush to coat
pans with a thin layer of oil. When baking, coat pans

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with a spritz of nonstick cooking spray instead of oils • Let the menu reflect the time of year. Use seasonal
or fats. (Kitchenware shops now carry oil sprayers fruits and vegetables whenever possible. They will be
you can fill with your favorite oil.) at their peak of flavor and reasonably priced.
• Experiment with lowfat or skim milk, lowfat sour • Be sure you have a well-stocked bar with plenty of
cream and cheese, and nonfat yogurt: they provide choices for nondrinkers. And keep lots of ice on
the same amounts of calcium and protein as the hand—even more than you think you’ll need.
whole-milk varieties but with less fat or none at all. • At least one week before the party, check your supply
• When making dips, substitute nonfat plain yogurt of chairs, glasses, serving dishes, and utensils. Con-
for sour cream. sider the space needed to enable guests to circulate
• Use fresh herbs and zesty seasonings liberally. easily and, if necessary, shift or remove furniture.
• Choose angel food cake instead of pound cake, espe-
cially when making cake-based desserts like trifle.
• To reduce fat and cholesterol, you can substitute 2 BUFFET BASICS
egg whites for 1 whole egg in recipes, but don’t sub- Buffets are great for carefree entertaining; just put out
stitute egg whites for all the whole eggs when baking; the food and keep the bowls and platters full. But don’t
the dessert will have better texture and flavor if you leave food out at room temperature for longer than
retain a yolk or two. two hours, and be sure to replenish the table with fresh
• Replace sour cream with buttermilk or yogurt in platters you’ve prepared in advance.
recipes for baked goods. • One of the easiest ways to entertain is to create a
menu of room-temperature dishes. Hot buffets, on
the other hand, should have one centerpiece dish
ENTERTAINING with simple side dishes.
Everyone loves a party, but the trick is to ensure that • Keep desserts simple; cakes and cookies that can be
the cook has a good time, too. Whether you’re plan- eaten out of hand, for example.
ning a casual backyard barbecue, an elegant dinner, or • Avoid traffic jams at the buffet table. If possible,
a holiday buffet, a few simple strategies will guarantee place the table in the center of the room, so guests
you stress-free entertaining. can serve themselves from both sides of the table.
Provide two serving utensils for each bowl or tray.
Bundle the forks and napkins together and place at
THINK AHEAD both ends of the buffet.
• All good parties are well organized. Start with a few
lists: a guest list, a menu, a shopping list, and a menu
preparation timetable. D I N N E R - PA RT Y S T R AT E G I E S
• Invite guests two to three weeks ahead. Depending When planning the menu for a dinner party, it is im-
on the event you may want to specify the appropriate portant that the flavors, colors, textures, and richness
dress, the type of food that will be served, and the ex- of the food be well balanced. Follow a creamy soup
pected duration of the party. with a simple roast, and avoid repeating ingredients
• Simplicity is the key to a successful menu, especially and flavors. Also, consider the amount of time you’ll
when you’re expecting a large number of guests. The need to spend in the kitchen. Soups, stews, casseroles,
majority of the dishes should be those you’ve cooked mousses, sorbets, and baked goods can be made ahead.
and enjoyed in the past. Take advantage of dishes that Try not to have more than two dishes that require your
taste even better when made ahead. It’s also smart to last-minute attention.
include some dishes that freeze well.
• Look for food preparation time-savers. For example,
if you’re making a shrimp dish, purchase peeled,
deveined shrimp instead of cleaning them yourself.

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WINE
When choosing a beverage to complement a meal,
there’s no reason to restrict yourself to wine. Although
wine can be suave and elegant or simple and refreshing,
when food is spicy or very robust it can overwhelm or
compete with a wine unless you choose very carefully.
What follows is all you need to know to get you started
choosing, serving, and enjoying wine with ease.

KNOW YOUR WINES


There are two kinds of wine: red (which includes rosé)
and white. Wine is described primarily by its relative
sweetness. A dry wine lacks natural sugars (but it still
Formal table setting: dinner plate, salad plate, bread plate, can be perceived as fruity), a semidry wine generally
salad fork, dinner fork, soup spoon, dinner knife, dessert fork, tastes sweet, and a sweet wine is very sweet.
dessert spoon, butter knife, white wine glass, red wine glass,
water glass
White wines range from very dry (Manzanilla
sherry) to very sweet (Tokay), while red wines are usu-
ally dry (except for some kosher-type wines). In gen-
eral, wines are named either for the predominant grape
S E T T I N G A P R O P E R TA B L E used in production (cabernet sauvignon) or for the re-
There is a proper way to set a table. To begin, place a gion of production (Chianti). A wine is judged by
dinner plate at each setting. If serving soup, place the three basic components: its color, aroma (bouquet),
soup bowls on top of the salad plates. Set the bread and taste. White wines range in color from pale yellow-
plates to the left of the dinner plates above the forks. green to straw yellow to deep gold, whereas red wines
Napkins go either to the left of the forks or in the cen- range from purplish red to ruby red.
ter of the dinner plates What is a good wine? Any wine you enjoy drink-
Flatware is arranged in a common-sense way, in ing. Let your eyes, nose, and mouth be your guides.
the order used, beginning farther away from the plate. White Wines
Forks are placed on the left, while knives (cutting edge Chardonnay One of the most popular wines,
facing the plate) and spoons are on the right. If you are chardonnay is produced the world over. Most chardon-
serving soup, the soup spoons are placed to the right of nays are buttery, fruity, and fairly dry; they are often
the knives. If you are serving salad, the salad forks are aged in oak. Chardonnays that have been aged in small
set to the left of the dinner forks. Butter knives may be oak barrels (sometimes new ones) are often character-
placed right on the butter plates. ized as being “oaky,” a quality that can mask a wine’s
If you have enough flatware and room on the lovely fruity qualities. Serve with summer foods, such
table, the dessert forks and spoons can be placed above as grilled salmon or chicken, as well as with roasted
the dinner plates (see photo above). Otherwise, set out chicken or fish.
the dessert flatware with the dessert. And don’t forget Gewürztraminer A specialty of Alsace, France,
to provide teaspoons for coffee or tea. although it’s produced in other countries as well. It is a
• If serving only one wine, place the wineglasses spicy wine that can be dry or semisweet. If dry, serve
slightly above the dinner knives and set the water with fish, poultry, or spicy foods. If sweet, serve with
glasses to their left. If also serving wine to accompany fruit desserts.
the first course, place those glasses to the right of the Riesling This wine has a floral fragrance with
primary wineglasses. hints of honey. Late-harvest Riesling is produced from

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super-ripe grapes that are intensely sweet, making it become a uniquely California wine. It has a spicy,
one of the world’s most delicious wines. German Ries- fruity, slight raspberry flavor. It can stand up to hearty
lings are much sweeter than Alsatian Rieslings. They foods, such as steaks, lamb, veal chops, game birds, and
are excellent with Chinese food, lightly spiced food, hamburgers.
and roast chicken. Alsatian Rieslings are ideal summer-
Other Wines
time wines.
Madeira, Sherry, and Port These are wines that
Sauvignon Blanc A refreshing, clean-flavored
have been fortified with a spirit (usually brandy) to in-
wine with a grassy, herbaceous aroma. It is sometimes
crease their alcohol content. They are usually enjoyed
labeled fumé blanc. Serve with poultry, fish, or shellfish.
after a meal, although dry sherry is often sipped before
Red Wines dinner as an apértif.
Beaujolais A pleasant, light-bodied, fruity French Rosé This light-bodied wine is made from red
wine that goes well with meats and poultry. grapes: The grape skins are left on just long enough to
Beaujolais Nouveau A light, fruity wine that is produce the desired pink color. (Inexpensive rosés are
seven to nine weeks old and is released for sale on the often tinted.) Serve well chilled, before dinner or with
third Thursday of November. It is an ideal wine to lighter foods.
serve at Thanksgiving. Sparkling Wine These bubbly wines range from
Bordeaux Some of the greatest wines in the world slightly sweet to dry. Champagne is the most famous
are from the Bordeaux region in France. These wines (even though we often use the term to mean any
are rich and fragrant and known for their ability to age sparkling wine). True champagne is produced only in
well. Roast goose, lamb, and other red meats are the the Champagne region of France by the traditional
perfect partners. méthode champenoise, but other countries also make
Burgundy Wines from the Burgundy region of fine sparklers, too. Sparkling wines go with every food,
France are elegant, highly prized, and among the most including dessert.
expensive in the world. Burgundys, made from 100
percent pinot noir grapes, are lighter in body and color
than some other red wines. They bear no resemblance SERVING WINE
to the typical California Burgundy. Enjoy with salmon, Serving wine at the proper temperature helps to bring
red meat, pork, poultry, and game. out all its flavor. Red wine is often served too warm,
Cabernet Sauvignon Produced in many coun- while white wine is often served too cold, which makes
tries, this well-known wine is full-bodied and can be it difficult to fully appreciate them. Red wine should
complex, with hints of spice and ripe fruit. It comple- be served at cool room temperature. If it’s too warm,
ments hearty meats, poultry, and stews. place it in a bucket of ice water for five minutes. Some
Chianti One of the most famous Italian wines, young and fruity reds, such as Beaujolais, are best
true Chianti is Tuscan. This sturdy, dry wine goes when slightly chilled. White wines and sparkling wines
nicely with tomato-based pasta dishes, steaks, ham- should be served well chilled but not so cold that their
burgers, and pizza. delicious flavors are hidden. To quick-chill white or
Merlot Rich, fragrant, and smooth bodied, this sparkling wine, submerge the bottle in a bucket or pot
wine is easy to like. Serve with robust foods such as filled with half ice and half water. Or wrap the bottle in
lamb, sausages, stews, braises, and Cornish hens. several thicknesses of wet paper towels and place in the
Pinot Noir This intensely flavored wine is now freezer for 20 to 30 minutes or until chilled. (Check to
produced in Oregon and California—often with great make sure the wine doesn’t freeze.)
success. The wine can be light or full bodied. It goes Wine is traditionally served in stemmed glasses: The
with almost any food but is especially good with large flat base allows you to swirl the wine, which helps
salmon, poultry, pork, veal, ham, and cheese. release its aroma and flavor. When drinking wine, hold
Zinfandel Originally grown in Europe, “zin” has the glass by the stem. This is especially important with

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chilled wines; it prevents the heat from your hand from Blend To mix ingredients until smooth or com-
warming the wine. Glasses should be filled one-half to pletely combined.
two-thirds full to leave enough room for swirling. Blind bake To bake a piecrust before it’s filled. To
Exposing wine to air lets it “breathe” and release its prevent the dough from puffing up during baking, the
flavor, but simply uncorking the bottle doesn’t do pastry dough is lined with foil and filled with pie
much—the wine needs to be poured. If you wish, weights or dry beans; they are removed shortly before
decant it (pour it into a decanter) before serving. (If de- the end of the baking time to allow the crust to color.
canting an aged wine, leave any sediment in the bottle.) Boil To heat a liquid until bubbles break vigor-
ously on the surface (water boils at 212°F). It also
means to cook food, such as pasta or potatoes, in a
PA I R I N G W I N E W I T H F O O D boiling liquid.
There really aren’t any strict rules when it comes to pair- Braise To cook food by first browning it in fat,
ing wine with food, but try to match the intensity of then covered, on top of the stove or in the oven, in a
the flavors. For example, serve a light wine with a deli- small amount of liquid. This slow method tenderizes
cate entrée and a robust wine with a full-flavored dish. tough cuts of meat by breaking down their fibers and
Gewürztraminer is a good match for gingery Asian develops their flavor.
dishes, while zinfandel can stand up to the spicy flavors Broth A thin, clear liquid produced by simmering
of Mexican food. An easy way to pair wine with food is in water vegetables, poultry, meat, or fish (on the
to serve a wine from the same region or country as the bone). Broth is used as a base for soups, stews, sauces,
recipe you are preparing. For example, a paella is best and many other dishes. Canned broth is a convenient
enjoyed with a Spanish wine, while pasta with tomato substitute for homemade.
sauce is ideally matched with an Italian red wine. Brown To cook over high heat, usually on top of
Here are a few rules of thumb: Red wines go well the stove, to brown food.
with meats, roast chicken, salmon, tomato-based pasta Butterfly To split food, such as shrimp or bone-
dishes, and hard cheeses (like Parmesan). White wines less leg of lamb, horizontally, cutting almost all the way
are a good match for delicately flavored fish, skillet through, then opening it up (like a book) to form a
poultry dishes, vegetable dishes, cheese-based pasta butterfly shape. It exposes a more uniform surface area
dishes, and soft and semisoft cheeses. so food cooks evenly and quickly.
Caramelize To heat sugar until it becomes syrupy
and golden to deep amber in color. Sugar-topped
COOKING TERMS desserts like crème brûlée are caramelized under the
GLOSSARY broiler or with a propane torch. Onions become
Al dente Italian for “to the tooth,” describes caramelized when slowly cooked until golden brown
perfectly cooked pasta: just tender and with a slight and very tender.
resistance. Core To remove the seeds or tough woody centers
Baste To spoon or brush a liquid over food to from fruits such as apples, pears, and pineapple and
keep it moist during cooking. The liquid can be a from vegetables such as cabbage and fennel.
sauce, marinade, broth, melted butter, or pan juices. Cream To beat butter, margarine, or other fat
Beat To briskly mix or stir a mixture with a until it’s creamy looking or with sugar until it’s fluffy
spoon, whisk, fork, or electric mixer. and light. This technique beats in air, creating light-
Blanch To cook food (usually fruits or vegetables) textured baked goods.
briefly in boiling water, then plunge into ice water to Crimp To decoratively pinch or press the edges of
stop the cooking. It locks in the color, texture, and fla- a single piecrust or to seal the edges of a double-crusted
vor. Blanching is used to loosen tomato and peach pie so the filling doesn’t seep out during baking.
skins (for peeling) and to mellow the saltiness or bitter- Curdle To coagulate or separate into solids and
ness of certain foods. liquids. Egg- and milk-based mixtures can curdle if

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heated too quickly, overcooked, or combined with an heavier mixture (such as a cake batter or the base of a
acid, such as lemon juice. soufflé) without deflating either. A rubber spatula is
Cut in To work a solid fat, such as shortening, the best tool to use for folding.
butter, or margarine, into dry ingredients using a pas- Fork-tender A degree of doneness for cooked veg-
try blender or two knives scissor-fashion until the etables and meats. When the food is pierced with a
pieces are the desired size. fork, there is only a very slight resistance.
Deglaze To scrape up the flavorful browned bits Glaze To coat food by brushing with melted jelly,
from the bottom of a skillet or roasting pan in which jam, or barbecue sauce or to brush piecrust with milk
meat or poultry has been cooked by adding water, or beaten egg before baking.
wine, or broth and stirring while gently heating. Grill To cook food directly or indirectly over a
Devein To remove the dark intestinal vein of source of heat (usually charcoal, briquettes, or gas) or
shrimp. The shrimp is first peeled, then a lengthwise in a special ridged pan.
slit is made along the back, exposing the vein so that it Julienne To cut food, especially vegetables, into
can be removed. thin, uniform matchstick strips about 2 inches long.
Dollop A spoonful of soft food, such as pesto, yo- Knead To work dough until it’s smooth and elastic,
gurt, whipped cream, or crème fraîche. either by pressing and folding with the heel of the hand
Dot To scatter bits of butter or margarine over a or by working it in a heavy-duty electric mixer with a
pie filling, casserole, or other dish before baking. It dough hook. Kneading develops the gluten in flour, an
adds richness and flavor and helps promote browning. elastic protein that gives yeast breads their structure.
Dredge To lightly coat with flour, cornmeal, or Leavening An agent that causes dough or batter
bread crumbs. Meats and fish are dredged before cook- to rise. Common leaveners include baking powder,
ing to create a crisp, browned exterior. baking soda, and yeast. Natural leaveners are air (when
Drippings The melted fat and juices that collect beaten into eggs) and steam (in popovers, éclairs, and
in a pan when meat or poultry is cooked. Drippings cream puffs).
form the base for gravies and pan sauces. Marinate To flavor and/or tenderize a food by
Drizzle To pour melted butter, oil, syrup, melted letting it sit in a liquid (such as lemon juice, wine, or
chocolate, or other liquid back and forth over food in a yogurt) and, often, oil, herbs, or spices. When a mari-
fine stream. nade contains an acid, the marinating should be done
Dust To coat lightly with flour (greased baking in a nonreactive container.
pans) or with confectioners’ sugar or cocoa (cakes and Panfry To cook food in a small amount of fat in a
pastries) or another powdery ingredient. skillet until browned and cooked through.
Emulsify To bind liquids that usually can’t blend Parboil To partially cook food in boiling water.
easily, such as oil and vinegar. The trick is to slowly add Carrots are often parboiled before they’re added to
one liquid, usually the oil, to the other while mixing other foods that take less time to cook.
vigorously. Natural emulsifiers, such as egg yolks or Pare To cut away the skin or rind of a fruit or veg-
mustard, are often added to vinaigrettes or sauces to etable. A vegetable peeler or paring knife (a small knife
emulsify them for a longer period. with a 3- to 4-inch blade) is usually used.
Ferment To bring about a chemical change in Pasteurize To kill the bacteria in milk, fruit juices,
foods and beverages that is caused by enzymes in bac- or other liquids by heating to a moderately high tem-
teria or yeasts. Beer, wine, yogurt, buttermilk, vinegar, perature, then rapidly cooling it. All milk sold in the
cheese, and yeast breads all get their distinctive flavors U.S. is pasteurized. Ultrapasteurized (UHT) milk is
from fermentation. subjected to very high temperatures—about 300°F—
Flour As a verb, means to coat food, a surface, or and vacuum-packed for extended storage. It will keep
a baking pan with flour. without refrigeration for up to six months but must be
Fold To combine a light mixture (such as beaten refrigerated once it’s opened. Ultrapasteurized cream is
egg whites, whipped cream, or sifted flour) with a not vacuum-packed; it must be refrigerated.

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Pinch The amount of a powdery ingredient, such Scald To heat a liquid, such as cream or milk, just
as salt, pepper, or a spice, you can hold between your until tiny bubbles appear around the edge of the pan.
thumb and forefinger; about 1⁄ 16 teaspoon. Score To make shallow cuts (usually parallel or
Pipe To force a food, such as frosting, whipped crisscross) in the surface of food before cooking. This is
cream, or mashed potatoes, through a pastry bag fitted done mainly to facilitate flavor absorption, as in mari-
with a pastry tip in a decorative manner or to shape nated meats, chicken, and fish, but sometimes also for
meringues or éclairs. You can also use a plastic bag with decorative purposes on hams. The tops of breads are
a corner snipped off. often scored to enable them to rise (during baking)
Poach To cook food in a gently simmering (barely without bursting.
moving) liquid: The amount and type of liquid will de- Sear To brown meat, fish, or poultry quickly by
pend on the food being poached. placing over very high heat.
Pound To flatten to a uniform thickness using a Shave To cut wide, paper-thin slices of food, such
meat mallet, meat pounder, or rolling pin. Meat and as Parmesan cheese or chocolate.
poultry is pounded to ensure even cooking. Pounding Shred To cut, tear, or grate food into narrow
also tenderizes tough meats by breaking up hard-to- strips or pieces.
chew connective tissue. Shuck To remove the shells of oysters, mussels,
Preheat To bring an oven or broiler to the desired scallops, or clams.
temperature before cooking food. Sift To press ingredients, such as flour or confec-
Prick To pierce a food, such as a piecrust or a tioners’ sugar, through a sifter or sieve. Sifting incorpo-
potato, usually with a fork, to prevent it from puffing rates air and removes lumps, which helps ingredients to
up or bursting during cooking/baking. combine more easily.
Proof To dissolve yeast in a measured amount of Simmer To cook food in a liquid over low heat (at
warm water (105° to 115°F), sometimes with a small about 185°F). A few small bubbles should be visible on
amount of sugar and then set it aside until foamy to the surface.
make sure that it is “active.” Skim To remove fat or froth from the surface of a
Punch down To deflate yeast dough after it has liquid, such as broth, boiling jelly, or soup. A skimmer,
risen fully. It is not necessary to literally “punch” down a long-handled metal utensil with a flat mesh disk or
the dough; it needs only to be gently deflated. perforated bowl at one end, is the ideal tool for the job.
Puree To mash or grind food until completely Soft peaks When cream or egg whites are beaten
smooth, usually in a food processor, blender, sieve, or until they stand in peaks that bend over at the top
food mill. when the beaters are lifted
Reduce To rapidly boil a liquid, such as a sauce, Steam To cook food, covered, over a small
wine, or stock, until it has reduced in volume in order amount of boiling water. The food is usually set on a
to concentrate the flavor. rack or in a basket. Since it’s not immersed in water,
Render To slowly cook animal fat or skin until the food retains more of its nutrients, color, and flavor
the fat separates from its connective tissue. It is strained than it would with other cooking methods.
before being used. The crisp brown bits left in the pan Stiff peaks When cream or egg whites are beaten
are called cracklings. until they stand in firm peaks that hold their shape
Roast To cook in an uncovered pan in the oven by when the beaters are lifted.
dry heat. Roasted food develops a well-browned exte- Stir-fry To cook pieces of food quickly in a small
rior. Tender cuts of meat, poultry, and fish are suitable amount of oil over high heat, stirring and tossing al-
for roasting, as are many vegetables. most constantly. Stir-frying is used in Asian cooking; a
Rolling boil A full constant boil that cannot be wok is the traditional pan, although a large skillet will
stirred down. do just as well.
Sauté To cook food quickly in a small amount of Temper To warm food gently before adding it to a
hot fat in a skillet; the term derives from the French hot mixture so it doesn’t separate or curdle.
word sauter (“to jump”). Tender-crisp The ideal degree of doneness for

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many fresh vegetables: They’re tender but still retain Handle these chiles and their sauce with care; they are
some of their crunch. very hot and can easily burn your skin. Leftover chipo-
Toast To brown bread, croutons, whole spices, or tles en adobo can be frozen. Freeze individual chiles
nuts in a dry skillet or in the oven. Toasting enhances with some sauce on a waxed paper–lined cookie sheet
the flavor of nuts and facilitates removal of the skin until firm, then remove from the waxed paper and
from hazelnuts. store in a heavy-duty zip-tight plastic bag for up to
Toss To lift and drop pieces of food quickly and three months. Chipotles en adobo can be found in
gently with two utensils, usually to coat them with a Latino markets and many supermarkets.
sauce (as for pasta) or a dressing (as for salad). Chorizo A spicy pork sausage seasoned with
Whip To beat an ingredient (especially heavy or chiles and garlic. Spanish-style chorizo is a firm,
whipping cream) or mixture rapidly to incorporate air smoked link sausage. Do not substitute Mexican-style
and increase volume. You can use a whisk, egg beater, fresh chorizo.
or electric mixer. Cilantro A pungent green herb, popular in Asian
Whisk To beat ingredients (such as heavy or and Latino cooking; sometimes called fresh coriander
whipping cream, eggs, salad dressings, or sauces) with or Chinese parsley. It is often sold with the roots still
a fork or whisk to mix, blend, or incorporate air. attached; the roots are sometimes chopped and used as
Zest To remove the flavorful colored part of citrus a seasoning.
skin. Use the fine holes of a grater, a zester, or a vegetable Cinnamon sticks Used to garnish hot beverages.
peeler, avoiding the bitter white pith underneath. They can also be simmered in a liquid to release their
warm, spicy flavor.
Coconut milk An unsweetened infusion of shred-
INGREDIENTS GLOSSARY ded coconut meat and water that is strained and
Almond paste A firm but pliable confection made canned. It is not interchangeable with cream of
of ground almonds and confectioners’ sugar mixed coconut, which is rich, sweet, and used in desserts and
with glucose, corn syrup, or egg white. Available in tropical mixed drinks.
cans or tubes, almond paste is similar to marzipan, Cornichons Tiny gherkinlike cucumbers that are
which is sweeter and softer. If almond paste seems pickled in a tart brine. Small dill pickles are an accept-
hard, microwave on High for a few seconds to soften. able substitute if the cornichons are to be chopped and
Amaretti cookies Crisp, round almond-flavored used in a sauce.
Italian cookies, found at Italian grocers and specialty Crab boil A mix of herbs and spices (such as mus-
food stores. They often come tissue-wrapped in pairs tard seeds, whole allspice, peppercorns, bay leaves, and
and packed into pretty tin boxes. dried chiles) that is sometimes added to the water in
Calvados An apple brandy made in the Nor- which crab, shrimp, or lobster is cooked.
mandy region of France. Applejack is a good substitute. Curry powder Widely used in Indian cooking,
Capers The flower buds of a bush native to parts the blend of spices and heat intensity can greatly vary.
of the Mediterranean and Asia. They are usually dried A typical curry powder can contain up to twenty dif-
and then pickled in a vinegar brine. Also available at ferent spices, including turmeric, cardamom, red
specialty food stores are capers packed in salt, which chiles, black pepper, and cumin. Madras-style curry
have a purer flavor. Capers should be rinsed under cold powder, available in supermarkets, is a reliable moder-
water and drained before using. ately spicy blend.
Chili powder A blend of ground dried mild chiles Durum A hard wheat that is ground to make
and ingredients such as cumin and garlic powder. semolina flour, which is used for pasta.
Ground dried chiles without added seasonings are also Espresso coffee powder, instant Available at Ital-
available and sometimes labeled chile powder. ian grocers and many supermarkets, it is a convenient
Chipotles en adobo Dried, smoked red jalapeño way to add rich, deep-roasted coffee flavor to food and
peppers canned in a thick chile puree called adobo. beverages.

BASICS 25

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Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
The Project Gutenberg eBook of Michael
Robartes and the dancer
This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United
States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away
or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License
included with this ebook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you
are not located in the United States, you will have to check the
laws of the country where you are located before using this
eBook.

Title: Michael Robartes and the dancer

Author: W. B. Yeats

Release date: February 18, 2024 [eBook #72987]

Language: English

Original publication: Dublin: The Cuala Press, 1920

Credits: Christopher Hapka. (This file was produced from


images generously made available by The Internet
Archive.)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MICHAEL


ROBARTES AND THE DANCER ***
Michael Robartes and the Dancer

By William Butler Yeats

THE CUALA PRESS


CHURCHTOWN
DUNDRUM
MCMXX
CONTENTS

Preface

Michael Robartes and the Dancer

Solomon and the Witch


An Image from a Past Life

Under Saturn

Easter, 1916

Sixteen Dead Men

The Rose Tree

On a Political Prisoner
The Leaders of the Crowd

Towards Break of Day

Demon and Beast

The Second Coming

A Prayer for My Daughter


A Meditation in Time of War

To Be Carved on a Stone at Ballylee

Notes
Preface
A few of these poems may be difficult to understand, perhaps more difficult
than I know. Goethe has said that the poet needs all philosophy, but that he
must keep it out of his work. After the first few poems I came into
possession of Michael Robartes’ exposition of the Speculum Angelorum et
Hominum of Geraldus, and in the excitement of arranging and editing could
no more keep out philosophy than could Goethe himself at certain periods
of his life. I have tried to make understanding easy by a couple of notes,
which are at anyrate much shorter than those Dante wrote on certain of his
odes in the Convito, but I may not have succeeded. It is hard for a writer,
who has spent much labour upon his style, to remember that thought, which
seems to him natural and logical like that style, may be unintelligible to
others. The first excitement over, and the thought changed into settled
conviction, his interest in simple, that is to say in normal emotion, is always
I think increased; he is no longer looking for candlestick and matches but at
the objects in the room.

I have given no account of Robartes himself, nor of his discovery of the


explanation of Geraldus’ diagrams and pictures in the traditional knowledge
of a certain obscure Arab tribe, for I hope that my selection from the great
mass of his letters and table talk, which I owe to his friend John Aherne,
may be published before, or at any rate but soon after this little book,
which, like all hand-printed books will take a long time for the setting up
and printing off and for the drying of the pages.

W. B. Yeats.
Michael Robartes and the Dancer
He

Opinion is not worth a rush;


In this altar-piece the knight,
Who grips his long spear so to push
That dragon through the fading light,
Loved the lady; and it’s plain
The half-dead dragon was her thought,
That every morning rose again
And dug its claws and shrieked and fought.
Could the impossible come to pass
She would have time to turn her eyes,
Her lover thought, upon the glass
And on the instant would grow wise.

She

You mean they argued.

He

Put it so;
But bear in mind your lover’s wage
Is what your looking-glass can show,
And that he will turn green with rage
At all that is not pictured there.

She

May I not put myself to college?

He

Go pluck Athena by the hair;


For what mere book can grant a knowledge
With an impassioned gravity
Appropriate to that beating breast,
That vigorous thigh, that dreaming eye?
And may the devil take the rest.

She

And must no beautiful woman be


Learned like a man?

He

Paul Veronese
And all his sacred company
Imagined bodies all their days
By the lagoon you love so much,
For proud, soft, ceremonious proof
That all must come to sight and touch;
While Michael Angelo’s Sistine roof
His ‘Morning’ and his ‘Night’ disclose
How sinew that has been pulled tight,
Or it may be loosened in repose,
Can rule by supernatural right
Yet be but sinew.

She

I have heard said


There is great danger in the body.

He

Did God in portioning wine and bread


Give man His thought or His mere body?

She

My wretched dragon is perplexed.

He

I have principles to prove me right.


It follows from this Latin text
That blest souls are not composite.
And that all beautiful women may
Live in uncomposite blessedness,
And lead us to the like—if they
Will banish every thought, unless
The lineaments that please their view
When the long looking-glass is full,
Even from the foot-sole think it too.

She

They say such different things at school.


Solomon and the Witch
And thus declared that Arab lady:
“Last night, where under the wild moon
On grassy mattress I had laid me,
Within my arms great Solomon,
I suddenly cried out in a strange tongue
Not his, not mine.”
And he that knew
All sounds by bird or angel sung
Answered: “A crested cockerel crew
Upon a blossoming apple bough
Three hundred years before the Fall,
And never crew again till now,
And would not now but that he thought,
Chance being at one with Choice at last.
All that the brigand apple brought
And this foul world were dead at last.
He that crowed out eternity
Thought to have crowed it in again.
A lover with a spider’s eye
Will find out some appropriate pain,
Aye, though all passion’s in the glance,
For every nerve: lover tests lover
With cruelties of Choice and Chance;
And when at last that murder’s over
Maybe the bride-bed brings despair
For each an imagined image brings
And finds a real image there;
Yet the world ends when these two things,
Though several, are a single light,
When oil and wick are burned in one;
Therefore a blessed moon last night
Gave Sheba to her Solomon.”

“Yet the world stays:”


“If that be so,
Your cockerel found us in the wrong
Although he thought it worth a crow.
Maybe an image is too strong
Or maybe is not strong enough.”

“The night has fallen; not a sound


In the forbidden sacred grove
Unless a petal hit the ground,
Nor any human sight within it
But the crushed grass where we have lain;
And the moon is wilder every minute.
Oh, Solomon! let us try again.”
An Image from a Past Life
He

Never until this night have I been stirred.


The elaborate star-light has thrown reflections
On the dark stream,
Till all the eddies gleam;
And thereupon there comes that scream
From terrified, invisible beast or bird:
Image of poignant recollection.

She

An image of my heart that is smitten through


Out of all likelihood, or reason.
And when at last,
Youth’s bitterness being past,
I had thought that all my days were cast
Amid most lovely places; smitten as though
It had not learned its lesson.

He

Why have you laid your hands upon my eyes?


What can have suddenly alarmed you
Whereon ’twere best
My eyes should never rest?
What is there but the slowly fading west,
The river imaging the flashing skies,
All that to this moment charmed you?

She

A sweetheart from another life floats there


As though she had been forced to linger
From vague distress
Or arrogant loveliness.
Merely to loosen out a tress
Among the starry eddies of her hair
Upon the paleness of a finger.

He

But why should you grow suddenly afraid


And start— I at your shoulder—
Imagining
That any night could bring
An image up, or anything
Even to eyes that beauty had driven mad,
But images to make me fonder.

She

Now she has thrown her arms above her head;


Whether she threw them up to flout me,
Or but to find,
Now that no fingers bind,
That her hair streams upon the wind,
I do not know, that know I am afraid
Of the hovering thing night brought me.
Under Saturn
Do not because this day I have grown saturnine
Imagine that some lost love, unassailable
Being a portion of my youth, can make me pine
And so forget the comfort that no words can tell
Your coming brought; though I acknowledge I have gone
On a fantastic ride, my horses flanks were spurred
By childish memories of an old cross Pollexfen,
And of a Middleton, whose name you never heard,
And of a red-haired Yeats whose looks, although he died
Before my time, seem like a vivid memory.
You heard that labouring man
who had served my people. He said
Upon the open road, near to the Sligo quay—
No, no, not said, but cried it out—“You have come again
And surely after twenty years it was time to come.”
I am thinking of a child’s vow sworn in vain
Never to leave that valley his fathers called their home.

November, 1919.
Easter, 1916
I have met them at close of day
Coming with vivid faces
From counter or desk among grey
Eighteenth-century houses.
I have passed with a nod of the head
Or polite meaningless words,
Or have lingered awhile and said
Polite meaningless words,
And thought before I had done
Of a mocking tale or a gibe
To please a companion
Around the fire at the club,
Being certain that they and I
But lived where motley is worn:
All changed, changed utterly:
A terrible beauty is born.

That woman’s days were spent


In ignorant good will,
Her nights in argument
Until her voice grew shrill.
What voice more sweet than hers
When young and beautiful,
She rode to harriers?
This man had kept a school
And rode our winged horse.
This other his helper and friend
Was coming into his force;
He might have won fame in the end,
So sensitive his nature seemed,
So daring and sweet his thought.
This other man I had dreamed
A drunken, vain-glorious lout.
He had done most bitter wrong
To some who are near my heart,
Yet I number him in the song;
He, too, has resigned his part
In the casual comedy;
He, too, has been changed in his turn,
Transformed utterly:
A terrible beauty is born.

Hearts with one purpose alone


Through summer and winter seem
Enchanted to a stone
To trouble the living stream.
The horse that comes from the road.
The rider, the birds that range
From cloud to tumbling cloud,
Minute by minute change;
A shadow of cloud on the stream
Changes minute by minute;
A horse-hoof slides on the brim,
And a horse plashes within it
Where long-legged moor-hens dive,
And hens to moor-cocks call.
Minute by minute they live:
The stone’s in the midst of all.

Too long a sacrifice


Can make a stone of the heart.
O when may it suffice?
That is heaven’s part, our part
To murmur name upon name.
As a mother names her child
When sleep at last has come
On limbs that had run wild.
What is it but nightfall?
No, no, not night but death;
Was it needless death after all?
For England may keep faith
For all that is done and said.
We know their dream; enough
To know they dreamed and are dead.
And what if excess of love
Bewildered them till they died?
I write it out in a verse—
MacDonagh and MacBride
And Connolly and Pearse
Now and in time to be,
Wherever green is worn.
Are changed, changed utterly:
A terrible beauty is born.

September 25th, 1916.

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