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NOTE: ROUT ALL EXPOSED EDGES WITH 1/4"
QUARTER-ROUND BIT BEFORE ASSEMBLING
Chai r Pl ans 34-1/4" DEEP X 31-3/4" WIDE X 40" HIGH
Table Pl ans 21-1/4" DEEP X 24" WIDE X 19-1/2" HIGH
O
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Find plans for more outdoor furniture at
popularmechanics.com/outdoorfurniture.
I L LUSTRATI ON BY EUGENE THOMPSON POPULARMECHANI CS. COM J ULY 2006 101
HOME J OUR NAL
A D I R O N DAC K C H A I R
P
M
How to Build an Adirondack Lawn Chair and Table:
Simple DIY Woodworking Project
Step-by step plans to make the classiest lawn furniture around, with 3D animation and
master-level blueprints

An elegant, fan-shaped back and a comfortable, contoured seat combine to make a chair thats a standout
on any lawn. And we have a table to match.

Text and Photographs by Neal Barrett
Illustrations by Eugene Thompson
Published in the July 2006 issue.

MATERIALS LIST
QTY. SIZE DESCRIPTION
A 2 1 x 5-1/4 x 33-3/4" cedar side rail
B 1 1 x 4-1/4 x 23-1/4" cedar top back rail
C 1 1 x 3-1/2 x 23-1/4" cedar bottom back rail
D 9 3/4 x 2-1/4 x 23-1/4" cedar seat slat
E 7 3/4 x 3-1/4 x 35-1/2" cedar back slat
F 2 1 x 4-1/4 x 20-1/2" cedar front leg
G 2 1 x 2-1/2 x 29" cedar back leg
H 2 1 x 2-3/4 x 6-1/2" cedar arm bracket
I 2 1 x 5-1/4 x 28" cedar arm
J 2 1 x 5-1/4 x 16" cedar foot
K 2 1 x 1-1/2 x 19-1/4" cedar cleat
L 2 1 x 5 x 16-1/2" cedar leg
M 2 3/4 x 5 x 17-1/2" cedar stretcher
N 5 1 x 3-3/4 x 24" cedar slat
O as required 1-5/8" No. 8 fh deck screw
P as required 2" No. 8 fh deck screw

Making the Chair Seat
Lay out the side-rail shape on your stock, cut to the lines with a jigsaw [1] and sand the edges
smooth. Then, cut the back rails to size, and saw the curves that give the chair back its concave
shape. Note that the cut on the top rail is square, while the bottom rail has a 7-degree bevel.



Cut the seat slats to size and round the upper edges of each with a 1/4-in. quarter-round bit in a
router table. Then, round the exposed edges those that wont abut other parts of the side and
back rails. Keep the router table set up for this job so you can round the edges of the other parts as
theyre made.
Because of the shape of the seat, most of the slats require bevels on one or both edges. Use a table
saw or hand plane to cut the bevels.
Start seat assembly by screwing the lower back rail to the seat sides with one screw at each end of
the rail. Then, add slat No. 4 as indicated in the drawing, again using only one screw at each end
[2]. Measure opposite diagonals of the subassembly and adjust it until its square. When youre
satisfied, add a second screw to each end of the two slats to lock the pieces in position.
Use a 1-in.-thick block as a spacer to position the rear seat slat [3]. Then install the remaining slats.
Because the seat is curved and many of the slat edges are angled, dont try to measure these
spaces. Instead, simply arrange the slats by eye so that they appear uniform.
Cut the front legs to size and round the long edges on the router table. Mark a line on the inside face
of each leg that indicates the bottom edge of the side rail. Then, attach the legs to the seat
assembly with screws driven from the inside of the side rails [4].
Adding the Back
The back slats are tapered to create a fan shape when installed. Cut each 35-1/2-in.-long slat blank
so one end is 3-1/4 in. wide and the other is 2-1/4 in. wide. We did this on a band saw, but a jigsaw
will work, too. Smooth the sawn surfaces, cut the curved top ends and round the edges.

Click to enlarge
[Step 1]

Click to enlarge
[Step 2]

Click to enlarge
[Step 3]

Click to enlarge
[Step 4]

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Click to enlarge
[Step 5]
Cut the rear legs to size, angling the top ends at 64 degrees. Clamp each rear leg to a side rail, bore
and countersink screw pilot holes, and secure the legs with screws [5].

Click to enlarge
[Step 6]
Next, screw the top back rail to the top ends of
the back legs [6], and lay the chair on its back to
install the back slats.

Click to enlarge
[Step 7]
Place a 4-in. block under the upper back rail to
provide clearance for the long back slats. Mark
the centers of the top and bottom back rails, align
the center back slat with these marks and screw it
in place [7].

Click to enlarge
[Step 8]

Click to enlarge
[Step 9]
Installing the Arms
Cut out the arms and arm supports, and round the edges. Temporarily clamp the supports in place
and secure them with screws [9].

Click to enlarge
[Step 10]
Then, attach the arms to the front and rear legs with screws [10].
Making the Table
The table is built the same way as the chair all exposed edges are rounded on the router table
and the parts are simply screwed together.
Lay out the feet on 1-in. stock and cut to the lines with a jigsaw, then cut the remaining rectangular
pieces to size.

Click to enlarge
[Step 11]
Attach each foot with three screws [11],

Click to enlarge
[Step 12]

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3D Workshop

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chairs
tables
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DIY
projects
workshop
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furnituremaking



Click to enlarge
[Step 13]
To assemble the top, its easiest to first clamp the pieces together with 3/8-in.-thick spacers placed
between the top slats. Then, attach the cleats [13] use the base subassembly to make sure
theyre spaced properly.

Click to enlarge
[Step 14]
Finally, screw the base to the top cleats [14].
Finishing
Lightly sand the chair and table with 120-grit paper. Keep in mind, though, that cedar is a soft, oily
wood that doesnt sand as well as pine or hardwood. You wont achieve the silky smooth surface
that youd expect on indoor furniture.
We finished our pieces with Sikkens Cetol 1, 077 Cedar (www.nam.sikkens.com). First, wipe all the
sanding dust from the wood, then apply a coat of finish with a natural-bristle brush. Allow each coat
to dry for 24 hours before applying the next. Three coats should provide adequate protection from
the elements, but its a good idea to cover the pieces in the off-season if theyre left outdoors.