FINISHING Finishing is a physical or chemical process which is applied to a material to get desired effects.

But in garments industry, finishing is a process which consists of pressing or ironing, folding and packing of a garment. Objects of finishing: The objects of finishing are i. Proper ironing and packing of garment. ii. Quality control of finished garment by final inspection. In final inspection the following things are carried out and checkedi. Size measurement. ii. Form of fittings. iii. Over all get-up. For a basic shirt, the following size measurements are taken i. Collar ii. Shirt length iii. Chest iv. Sleeve length v. Scye depth/Arm hole depth vi. Drop shoulder vii. Cuff size. In case of overall get-up the following parameters should be full-filled by the finished garmentsi. Clean of all loose threads [The loose threads are cleaned by sticking gum-tapes on fabric]. ii. No oil spot or dirt stain. iii. Free from any kind of fabric defects. iv. No shade variation within the garment. v. No variation in stitch density and no fault in stitch formation. vi. Position of labels should be proper.
1

FINSHING ROCESSE: (Buttoning, Buttonholing, Rivet Attachment, Draw Cord Attachment/Insertion) Thread Trimming. Lose Thread Removal. Spotting/Stain Removal. Washing. Ironing/Pressing. Tagging. Folding. Packaging.

PRESSING Pressing can be defined as a process which changes the geometric fibre structure of the area being pressed by the controlled application of heat, steam and pressure. Pressing makes a large contribution to the finished appearance of the garments and thus their attractiveness at the point of sale. Objects/Purposes of Pressing: 1. To smooth away unwanted creases and crush marks. 2. To make creases where the design of the garment requires. 3. To mould the garment to contour of the body. 4. To prepare for further sewing. 5. To refinish fabric after manufacturing the garment. Basic component of pressing:
Steam Pressure Drying

Time

Steam: Steam and heat are necessary to relax the fabric and make it pliable enough to be moulded by manipulation. The combined effect of steam and heat is to slightly soften the fibre structure so that it can take on an alternative shape. Pressure: When the cloth has been relaxed by steam, pressure is applied which sets the fibres into their new position. An example of the combination of steam and pressure is the pressing of a crease in a pair of trousers. Drying: After the application of steam and pressure, the component or garment must be dried and cooled so that the cloth can revert to its normal moisture content and stable condition. This is achieved by a vacuum action which removes the surplus water in the fabric and cools it at the same time. For some pressing operations, hot air or infra-red heating is used instead of vacuum for drying. Time: The length of time the article is subjected to steam, pressure and drying depends on the fabric and the part being pressed; there is an optimum time for each component. Categories of Pressing: Garments can be of many types especially based on garments design and materials. Pressing categories depends on the garments design, types and materials. Pressing is mainly five categorized which are described below: 1. Garments which requires no pressing (e.g.: underwear, briefs, swimwear etc.) 2. Garments which requires minimal pressing (e.g.: nightgowns, knitted T-shirt, leisurewear etc.) 3. Garment which requires use of iron in under pressing & final pressing (e.g.: creasing of any part or gathering etc. are ironed before sewing) 4. Garment which requires extensive use of iron in under pressing & final pressing (e.g.: Suits etc) 5. Garment which requires pleats or permanent press.

Pressing process: Pressing process involved can be divided into two groups-

1. Under pressing: This is the term used to describe the pressing operations performed on garments while they are being made up.

2. Top pressing: This refers to the finishing operations which a garment undergoes after being completely assembled.

Both groups involve a large number of individual processes, their extent determined by the cloth, quality and design of the garment. Irrespective of the number and types of operations involved, the basic component of pressing are the same.

Pressing technique: For various garments, various types of pressing may be appropriate. And for that, various pressing machines are required. Among those, the following machines are used in garments industries I. Iron: a. Traditional Iron: Heated by a gas flame inside the metal casting. Temperature is estimated only by the rate of evaporation.

b. Electric Iron: Heated by an electric element. Controlled by thermostat.

c. Steam Iron: Steam is applied from either the main supply or a small boiler unit. Steam function is activated by the touch of a button.

Irons are generally triangular and the weight of iron vary from about 1~15 kgs. Simple pressing table provided with a vacuum supply to hold the garments in position and dry and set in after ironing. Efficiency depends or skill and honesty of the operator. II. Steam Press: A steam press consists of a static buck and a head of complimentary shape, which closes on to it, thus sandwiching the garments to be pressed. A steam press system consists of a. A frame carrying the buck, round in shape. b. Linkages to close the head by scissor action. c. Pipe system, distribution system. d. A vacuum system to provide suction.
5

e. A table around the buck to aid handling of garments. f. Foot for controlling head closure. A typical pressing cycle a. Steam from the buck is applied. b. Head is locked to press the garment. c. Further steam from the garment. d. Head is released. e. Vapor applied to cool and dry the garment. When pressing is completed, the garment is hung on a hanger. Adequate time of application and operator skillness is required in this regard. Application: Sportswear, Jacket, Jeans pant etc. III. Steam air finisher/Dolly press/Puffer: It consists of a frame carrying a steam distribution system, compressed air distribution system and a pressing form which is a canvas bag in the approximate shape of the garment to be pressed that is, a body shape but with no sleeves. These are controls for steam and air release ad timers controlling the steam and air cycles. The equipment aims to reduce the positioning and repositioning in pressing operations by pressing the whole garment at the same time, though finishing is a better term in this situation since very little pressure is applied to the garment. The operator pulls the garment on to the form above, and the form is then expanded to its full size and shape as steam is blown through it from the inside. Application: This equipment can remove accidental creases and refinish the fabric, but will not form creases or mould the garment. It is extremely useful for garments such as nightdress, T-shirt, blouse etc. IV. Steam tunnel: Require no pressure, only heat. Here more than one chamber. Garments are hanged on the hangers. In the first chamber, garments are treated with steam so that unwanted creases are removed by relaxation of fabrics and gravitational forces.
6

In the next chamber the garments are dried with hot air. Here garments are passed from one chamber to another by rail.

Application: Knit garments etc.

Apparel Folding and Packaging

1.1 Apparel Folding Requirements:

All garments to be folded as per garment folding methods described in attached standards with no extra folds required.

1.2 Folding for a basic shirt: 1. Stand-up: In which, the collar is folded and kept at 90 angle with the body. 2. Semi stand-up: In which, the collar is folded and kept at 45 angle with the body. 3. Flat: In which, the collar is folded and is completely laid flatten on the body. 4. Hanging: In which, shirt is supplied in box by hanging on a hanger.

2.1 Requirements of Prepack deliveries:

To ensure garments are clean and dry before packing and must be folded as per illustrations included in the guideline. To ensure that staff handling the garments have clean hands and that the general environment is clean and dust free.
To ensure garments are firmly packed into cartons as some settling will occur during transit. 7

To ensure Overseas only must be pre-packed into a clear plastic protective poly bag as required/requested prior to packing and sealing in carton. To ensure, if packed in groups-garments must be pre-hung and the garment hangers grouped and secured together. To ensure that protective bags are sealed.

2.2 Apparel Packaging Requirements: Strength of carton Contents of the carton are packed as per instructions. Labeling/marking as per requirements. Correct size of cartons. Adequate sealing of cartons. Do not use brown paper wrapping. Do not use carton stapling.

2.3 Packing Sequence: After folding, garments are packed in polyethylene packets. Generally, polyethylene packets are of different sizes. During packing, the position of sticker and other labels should be confirmed. After polyethylene packing, garments are kept in the sorting rack according to size and color. Then garments are placed in inner box from the sorting rack according to size and color. Packing in inner box according to work order is called assortment. The packing that is done by the fixed no. of inner box in the carton is called cartooning or packing. The carton is sealed with the scotch tape. Carton bears some information on it e.g. carton box no., carton box size, shipping mark, destination etc.