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D L M M J V S Objetivo: Recuperar
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21 2 de diciembre Modo: Cama
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Buenos Aires, Argentina

In the narrow spaces between the wood persianas, I could see hints of
sunlight. Late day sunlight. How late? A glance at the bedside alarm
clock. 18:30. I had slept the whole day away. Granted, my body probably
needed the rest, but I was pretty bent. With only four weeks left in
South America, time was the most precious of commodities. Rising
slowly from my spacious twin bed, I felt as if my extremities had all been
well starched. The Buenos Aires Marathon or all-night dancing at Infierno
or some combination of the two had officially kicked my culo.
I found Kip in the guest room packing for his return flight to Chicago.
Although rested, the bags under his eyes were vintage residual Infierno.
He informed me that I had not missed much during what was a quiet
Monday. Apparently, Dolores had held off on serving lunch several times
in hopes that I would regain consciousness and join them
at the kitchen table. Dodo liked to pick my
brain on Monday mornings before going to
her weekly two-hour Beginning English class
at a nearby language school on Las Heras. The
brainpicking usually entailed my completing
her assignments which she had a real knack for
putting off. Firmly convinced that I was no
longer among the living, she had stormed out
of the apartment and gone to class, as the post-
it note that she left indicated, “like a motherless child.”
After polishing off some leftover empanadas, my first order of business
was getting Kip to the airport. We each grabbed a bag and walked down
to the corner of Avenida del Libertador and Avenida Coronel Díaz to
catch the #130 colectivo. On the way, we grabbed a couple of cones for
the road at Freddo, an Argentine confectionery phenomenon. Freddo’s
product was so addictive that each
franchise was manned with a fleet of
mopeds ready to rush the ice cream
wherever porteño cravings arose.
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 The fifteen-minute colectivo ride left us standing in front of the Plaza
San Martín, only three blocks shy of our destination. The bronze statue
of the Argentine liberator on horseback was glowing in the predawn
light. San Martín and his fiery steed looked poised to conquer the world,
beginning with the lovestruck couples and hot dog vendors at their feet.
The airport shuttle service was the cheapest and quickest way to travel
from downtown to the Ezeiza Airport on the outskirts of town. I wished
Kip a safe trip home and Happy Holidays while he wished me a safe and
memorable Patagonia adventure. He boarded the white minivan around
20:00 assuring him plenty of fine concourse food and relaxation before
his United flight home to Chicago at 23:00. As the van was pulling
away, he leaned out the window and yelled, “Che, Nos vemos!” Profesora
Dolores would have been proud. For the trip home, I hopped on the C
line of the subte, changed trains at Diagonal Norte and rode the D line
back to Palermo. Walking out to street level above the Bulnes station,
Avenida Santa Fe was caught up in the evening commute. Colectivos,
taxis, motorcycles and pedestrians were moving in all directions. The
activity extended down Avenida Coronel Díaz from the Alto Palermo
galleria to the Parque Las Heras where one could witness the full spectrum
of neighborhood activity. Porteros sweeping or standing guard, shoppers
browsing, kids fútboling and pasaperros walking
dozens of restless inner-city dogs.
Before walking home, I paid a final visit to the
2600 Internet Cafe that had served as my electronic
lifeline to family and friends abroad. At ten dollars
per hour of Internet access, I had to move fast. I
typed only one e-mail and cc’d everyone who came to mind.
Dear friends, Andy Cunagin and I are flying to Rio Gallegos tomorrow
night to begin a month-long trek around the Patagonian Andes. As you can
imagine, we are both pretty excited about this opportunity to explore three
diverse South American countries. The first leg will take us down to Mt.
Fitz Roy in Argentina and Torres del Paine in Chile. The journey north
will take us up the Chilean coast, through Santiago and on to Perú.
Hopefully, we will reach Machu Picchu by Christmas Day before making
the turn for home around New Year’s. No laptops or cellphones in our
backpacks, so this will be the last transmission for awhile. Happy Holidays
to everyone and we look forward to seeing you all soon. Un abrazo, Patrick.
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