Professional Documents
Culture Documents
ASP Technical Web
ASP Technical Web
ASP Technical Web
Our philosophy is simple: to use knowledge, innovation, creativity and technology to create superior, safe, leading edge products for the professional haircare industry.
Technical Manual
ASP
/3
In 1996 International Hair Cosmetics Ltd. UK conceived, created and launched the premium hair care brand ASP. Originated as a line of permanent hair colour, the ASP brand grew rapidly to include tone on tone and fashion colours, permanent waves, specialist highlighting systems, bleaching powders, shampoos, conditioners and styling products that have been enthusiastically embraced by consumers and the hairdressing industry worldwide.
Today, ASP is sold in over 50 countries - across Europe, Africa, the United States, South America, and the Asia Pacific.The ASP brand is marketed globally by International Hair Cosmetics Ltd. UK and through its ASP Salon Professional group of companies in the USA and Australia. Distribution is achieved through a worldwide network of wholesalers and specialist distributors. In 2004 the UK Companys Research and Development Laboratory in Italy used its revolutionary DATEM Technology to create Kitoko - the worlds most advanced hair colour. Today, the team headed by Dott. Nicola Summer continue to break new ground in the development exciting, industry leading hair products that will further strengthen ASPs reputation as one of the fastest growing haircare companies in the world. This growth is spearheaded by the twin aims of unrivaled product innovation and quality, supported by comprehensive training and education systems.
4 ASP Australia
/4
Index
Index
DATEM TECHNOLOGY Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crme Why Use Kitoko? Skin Test Method Kitoko Numbering System Client Consultation & Colour Selection Retouch Application White Hair Coverage Extra Coverage with Natural Ash Shades (.01) Lifting Power of Kitoko ASP Crme Developer / Mixing Quantities Application Method First Time Application to Darken First Time Application to Lighten Processing Times Kitoko High Lift Arctic Blonde 12. Series High Lift Booster 12.0s Kitoko 3.66 - New Formula Statement Kitoko Shade Guide Kitoko Gothic Collection Permanent Hair Colour Crme Kitoko Satin Ammonia Free Tone On Tone Colour Kitoko Satin Shade Guide Intensives Colour Crme bRED Colour Highlighting Crme Refresher Refreshes all Red, Copper & Magenta Highlights HotShotz True Semi-Permanent Colour Dynamics Spectrum Highlighting & Toning System Blonde Ammonia Free Lightening System Ice Crme Ammonia Free Powder Lightener Lite High Performance Powder Bleach Converter Converts Permanent Colour to Tone On Tone Effect Kitoko Instant Pre-Pigmentation Spray & Gel Eraser Hair Colour Remover ASP COLOUR WHEEL 5 6 6 7 8 9 9 9 9 10 10 11 12 12 13 13 15 15 16 20 21 23 24 26 27 28 29 30 32 33 34 35 36 37 39
Technical Manual
DATEM Technology
/5
DATEM is a revolution in hair colour technology and is unique to ASP. This groundbreaking technology makes ASP colour products kinder, faster (by allowing the use of heat without damaging the hair or scalp) and more effective.
Free Radicals
In chemistry, radicals (often referred to as free radicals) are atomic or molecular species with unpaired electrons which can be created in many different ways (UV rays, pollution, intense sunlight, oxygen processes). They are very reactive and cause damage to the chemical compounds in our body (i.e. proteins, DNA). And when we are working with oxidation-based products it causes damage to the cuticle and scalp. DATEM in our products encapsulates the oxygen and releases it inside the hair thus drastically reducing the creation of free radicals. Oxygen encapsulated / controlled by DATEM DATEM in contact with Keratin DATEM releasing oxygen to allow lightening Free oxygen
/6
The Worlds Most Advanced Permanent Hair Colour Crme with DATEM Technology.
Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crme uses our unique DATEM Technology to penetrate deeper and faster into the hair shaft with significantly less damage to the cuticle. The pH level steadily decreases throughout the colour process, locking in the colour molecule to give intense, long lasting results and 100% grey coverage in just 25 minutes (with heat). Kitokos ultra-low ammonia content and emulsion crme base reduce the risk of sensitivity, whilst the incredible lift action allows the use of much lower volumes of developer. Kitokos gentle formulation with UV filters and Protein Protectors ensures that the hair is left in beautiful condition, producing clean blondes, vibrant reds, or soft natural tones.
2.
3.
Resistance To Fade
Whether natural or fashion colours are required, it is important they do not fade between applications. One of the main causes of changes in colour is the exposure to air and light. Oxygen in the hair creates creeping oxidation.
Technical Manual
/7
Fade also occurs because light contains ultra violet radiation. This can cause fading by bleaching the colour out of the hair. Due to DATEM Technology, Kitoko will penetrate deeper into the cortex without causing damage to the cuticle layer. This will prevent the new colour from fading. Kitoko also contains UV filters which reduce harmful rays and special buffers to control creeping oxidation, producing longer lasting colour results.
4.
5.
Lift Action
A permanent hair colour must have good lifting power in order for the colour result to be even: permanent hair colour first lifts some of the natural pigment before depositing new colour. Even black must first lift the natural pigment before depositing colour. Kitoko HAS THE RIGHT BALANCE. Kitoko WILL LIFT HIGHER WITH 6%(20vol) THAN MANY OF ITS COMPETITORS USING 9%(30vol). When darkening or covering white, (or colouring on the same level) 3%(10vol) SHOULD BE USED.
6.
7.
8.
/8
NB. When skin testing: always test using the same shade and developer that is to be applied.
* COLIPA is the European Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association, established in1962.
Technical Manual
/9
Examples
8.43 - Base 8. + Copper 4 + Gold 3 = Light Copper Gold Blonde 10.32 - Base 10. + Gold 3 + Violet 2 = Light Sand Beige Blonde 6.036 Base 6. + Natural 0 + Gold 3 + Red 6 = Dark Natural Gold Red Blonde (Dark Chocolate)
In the past, colourists have mixed 50% of natural tones with other shades in order to guarantee the coverage of white hair. This practice meant that if the target shade was a cool or ash shade, the addition of a Natural shade added warmth to the colour, thereby losing the desired cool ash shade. If the target shade was a warm shade ie Red or Copper, the addition of a Natural shade would decrease the intensity. The Kitoko Natural Ash .01 tones can be added to any shade including Red or Coppers in concentrations of up to 25% to guarantee coverage of white hair whilst retaining the desired tone. e.g. of target shade to of corresponding .01 shade. These .01 tones may be used alone for a Natural-Ash result if required.
Intense Mix - To increase coverage on coarse, very difficult to cover white hair, it is recommended that you mix Kitoko in a ratio of 1 part
colour to 1 part developer. N.B. It may be necessary to select a lighter shade as this mix will give greater deposit and result may appear to be deeper.
SHADE DEPTHS 1, 2 3, 4 5, 6 7, 8, 9, 10
For covering white hair, increasing colour depth and darkening: For up to 3 Levels of Lift depending on Kitoko shade used: When 1 extra level of lift is required: For up to 5 levels of lift with Arctic Blondes (12. Series):
use 3%(10vol) pH2.95 use 6%(20vol) pH2.9 use 9%(30vol) pH2.85 use 12%(40vol) pH2.8
Technical Manual
/11
Remember
Base your shade selection on the percentage of white hair present. The correct developer choice is based on the levels of lift required. When no lift is required always use 3%(10vol). See table below: Natural Base 5 5 4 1 3 %White 70% 0% 0% 0% 0% Target 7.4 7.4 7.4 2.0 7.4 Colour To Use 7.4 8.4 8.4 3.1 (add .01 Intensives) 8.4 Levels of Lift 0 2 3 1 4 Crme Developer 3%(10vol) 6%(20vol) 6%(20vol) 6%(20vol) 9%(30vol)
Mixing Quantities
The mix ratio of Kitoko to Crme Developer is 1 part colour to 1.5 (1 ) parts Crme Developer for all shades except 12 series, which are mixed 1 part colour to 2 parts Crme Developer. See table below for examples: Kitoko Crme 10g/0.33oz 20g/0.67oz 30g/1.01oz 40g/1.35oz 50g/1.69oz 60g/2.03oz Kitoko 12 Series High Lift Arctic Blondes 100g/3.38oz 75g/2.53oz 50g/1.69oz 25g/0.84oz Mixed With + + + + + + Mixed With + + + + Crme Developer 15g/0.51oz 30g/1.01oz 45g/1.52oz 60g/2.03oz 75g/2.53oz 90g/3.04oz Crme Developer 9% / 12% 200g/6.76oz 150g/5.07oz 100g/3.38oz 50g/1.69oz Total Mix Quantities 25g/0.84oz 50g/1.69oz 75g/2.53oz 100g/3.38oz 125g/4.4oz 150g/5.07oz Total Mix Quantities 300g/10.6oz 225g/7.93oz 150g/5.07oz 75g/2.53oz
Application Method
When using Kitoko the correct quantity of product must be applied onto the hair. Too little product will mean insufficient lift, low colour deposit and poor coverage resulting in fade. By applying the correct quantity, the product will penetrate the hair shaft, reaching the keratin chains and produce the lifting and deposit action. Applications can be made on dry or pre-washed, towel dried hair. Some resistant white hair will accept colour better if the hair is pre-washed and towel dried. This method is also advisable when the hair is resistant to colour. Divide hair into 4 sections: from centre of forehead to nape of the neck and from ear to ear. Start from area where the percentage of white hair is highest. Apply product to thin sections taking care not to overlap previously coloured hair. When application is completed, the product must be clearly visible on the hair. When using High Lift Blondes remember to take very fine sections of hair and apply twice as much product than usual. When mixing colour using a tint brush, please use a clean brush for application to the hair.
Remember
Insufficient product and/or bad application is a common cause of poor results.
Apply to the root area (Fig.2) and process for a further 40 minutes - no heat. OR 20 minutes - gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) Do not cover during processing.
Fig.2
Removal
At the end of the processing time, without adding water, emulsify colour around hairline to remove any stains, then add a small amount of water and continue to emulsify the remaining colour. Rinse until the water runs clear, shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner. Total Processing Time: 45 minutes - no heat OR 25 minutes - gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F)
Processing: Without Heat - Do not cover during processing. Apply to the mid lengths and ends (Fig.1), leaving 3 - 4cm at the root untouched. Process for 20 minutes Apply the remaining product to the roots (Fig.2) and process for a further 25 Total processing time 45 minutes Processing: With Gentle Heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) Do not cover during processing. Apply to the mid lengths and ends (Fig.1), leaving 3 - 4cm at the root untouched. Process for 5 minutes. Apply the remaining product to the roots (Fig.2) and process for a further 20 minutes Total processing time 25 minutes SEE REMOVAL ABOVE Retouch Application: Without Heat
- Do not cover during processing. Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair. Do not mix fresh colour for the application to mid lengths and ends. Apply to the regrowth only. Process for 40 minutes. Using the same mix, apply to the mid lengths and ends and process for a further 5 minutes. Total processing time 45 minutes
Retouch Application: With Gentle Heat - (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) Do not cover during processing. Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair. Do not mix fresh colour for the application to mid lengths and ends. Apply to the regrowth only. Process for 20 minutes. Using the same mix, apply to the mid lengths and ends and process for a further 5 minutes WITHOUT HEAT Total processing time 25 minutes SEE REMOVAL ABOVE Mixing
Mix Kitoko 1 -10 series in a non-metallic bowl or applicator with ASP Crme Developer to the ratio of 1 part colour to 1.5 parts developer, e.g. 100g/3.8oz of Kitoko Colour Crme + 150g/5.07oz of ASP Crme Developer.
Technical Manual
/13
45 MINUTES - NO HEAT
Processing Times:
Do not cover during processing. When working with permanent hair colour it is important to use the recommended processing time. This will ensure the best possible colour result. If these are not used poor results may occur. The recommended processing time for Kitoko High Lift Arctic Blonde 12 Series is 55 to 60 minutes with no heat (60 minutes for maximum tone deposit) or 30 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F). During this time two different actions are taking place - 1. Lift Action and 2. Colour Deposit. When using no heat: the lift action is 45 minutes. Also during this period the colour slowly starts to develop. Colour molecules begin to increase in size. The colour deposit happens in the final 10 - 15 minutes. During this period the colour fully develops and the molecules reach their optimum size. Total time: 55 - 60 minutes. When using gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) the lift action is 25 minutes and the colour deposit is the final 5 minutes. Total time: 30 minutes. The processing time of High Lift Arctic Blonde 12. Series is:
colour deposit
55 - 60 MINUTES - NO HEAT
Virgin Head Application: With Heat (hair up to 25cm) HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing.
Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair. Apply product to the lengths and ends leaving approx 3-4cm of the root hair untouched. Process for 10 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) then apply colour to the roots. Process for 20 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F). Total processing time 30 minutes
Virgin Head Application: With Heat (hair longer than 25cm) HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing.
Apply colour first to the ends (5 - 6cm). Process for 5 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F). Remix fresh colour and then apply to the mid lengths for 5 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F). Finally, Remix fresh colour and apply to the root area until the desired shade is reached approx 20 minutes (gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F). Total processing time 30 minutes
Technical Manual
/15
At the end of the processing time add a small amount of water and emulsify the colour. Rinse until the water runs clear, shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.
12.0s
Natural Tones
Extra Natural
Green Ash
40 Vol (12%)
12.
4 TO 5 Shades Lift
12.0
12.0s
High Lift Booster
12.1
High Lift Arctic Light Ash Blonde
10.
10.0
Extra Light Natural Blonde
10.21
Extra Light Cool Ash Blonde
10.1
Extra Light Ash Blonde
2 TO 3 Shades Lift
Light Blonde
8.
8.0
Light Blonde
20 Volume (6%)
9.
9.0
Very Light Blonde
9.00
Extra Natural Very light Blonde
9.01
Natural Very Light Ash Blonde
9.1
Very Light Ash Blonde
8.00
Extra Natural Light Blonde
8.01
Natural Light Ash Blonde
8.1
Mix 1/2 9.1 1/2 7.1
Medium Blonde
7.
7.0
Medium Blonde
7.00
Extra Natural Medium Blonde
7.01
Natural Medium Ash Blonde
7.1
Medium Ash Blonde
1 TO 2 Shades Lift
Light Brown
5.
5.0
Light Brown
20 Volume (6%)
Dark Blonde
6.
6.0
Dark Blonde
6.00
Extra Natural Dark Blonde
6.01
Natural Dark Ash Blonde
6.1
Mix
3/4 6.0 1/4 Intensives 0.1
5.00
Mix 1/2 6.00 1/2 4.00
5.01
Natural Light Ash Brown
Dark Brown
3.
3.0
Dark Brown
Black
1.
1.0
Black
Technical Manual
20 Volume (6%)
2.
2.0
Very Dark Brown
20 Volume (6%)
1 Shades Lift
Medium Brown
4.
4.0
Medium Brown
4.00
Extra Natural Medium Brown
4.01
Natural Medium Ash Brown
/17
12.
12.2
High Lift Arctic Pearl Blonde
12.23
High Lift Arctic Beige Blonde
12.33
Mix 1/2 12.0s 1/2 10.3
10.
10.2
Extra Light Pear Blonde
10.32
Extra Light Sand Beige Blonde
10.3
Extra Light Golden Blonde
10.34
Mix 1/2 9.34 1/2 10.3
9.
9.2
Very Light Violet Blonde
9.23
Very Light Pearl Beige blonde
9.3
Very light Golden Blonde
9.33
Very Light Intensive Golden Blonde
9.34
Very Light Copper Golden Blonde
Light Blonde
8.
8.2
Light Violet Blonde
8.32
Light Sandy Beige Blonde
8.3
Light Golden Blonde
8.33
Light Intensive Golden Blonde
8.43
Light Copper Golden Blonde
Medium Blonde
7.
7.2
Medium Violet Blonde
7.23
Medium Pearl Beige Blonde
7.3
Medium Golden Blonde
7.33
Mix 1/2 8.33 1/2 6.33
7.43
Medium Copper Golden Blonde
Dark Blonde
6.
6.2
Dark Violet Blonde
6.3
Dark Golden Blonde
6.33
Dark Intensives Golden Blonde
Light Brown
5.
4.2
Medium Violet Brown
5.3
Light Golden Brown
Medium Brown
4.
4.3
Mix 1/2 5.3 1/2 4.00
Dark Brown
3.
The colours indicated in this guide are a representation only.
2.
2.2
Deep Violet Brown
Black
1.
12.
10.
9.
9.4
Mix 1/2 9.0 1/2 8.4
Light Blonde
8.
8.4
Light Copper Blonde
8.52
Light Mahogany Violet Blonde
Medium Blonde
7.
7.4
Medium Copper Blonde
7.46
Medium Ruby Red
7.5
Medium Mahogany Blonde
Dark Blonde
6.
6.4
Dark Copper Blonde
6.45
Dark Copper Mahogany Blonde
6.46
Dark Ruby Red
6.5
Mix 1/2 7.5 1/2 5.5
Light Brown
5.
5.4
Light Copper Brown
5.46
Ruby Red
5.53
Mix 3/4 5.5 1/4 5.3
5.5
Light Mahogany Brown
Medium Brown
4.
4.53
Medium Mahogany Golden Brown
Dark Brown
3.
6.652
Red Pepper
7.336
All Spice
8.335
Nutmeg
8.465
Paprika
9.325
Cinnamon
Technical Manual
/19
Gold Mahogany
Red Blue
Intensive Red
12.
10.
.035 .036
9.
9.35
Very Light Golden Mahogany Blonde
9.035
Ca e Latte
Light Blonde
8.
8.35
Light Golden Mahogany Blonde
8.035
Cappuccino
Medium Blonde
7.
7.35
Medium Golden Mahogany Blonde
7.6
Cherry
7.64
Medium Flame Red Blonde
7.036
Milk Chocolate
Dark Blonde
6.
6.35
Dark Golden Mahogany Blonde
6.6
Mix 1/4 7.6 1/2 5.6
6.64
Dark Flame Red Blonde
6.66
Fire Red
6.036
Dark Chocolate
Light Brown
5.
5.35
Light Golden Mahogany Brown
5.6
Rouge Red
5.63
Sherry Red
5.66
Claret
5.036
Co ee
Medium Brown
4.
4.6
Veronese Red
4.65
Beaujolais
4.036
Caf Noir
Dark Brown
3.
3.66
Burgundy
2.
1.7
Blue Black
Black
1.
Mixing
1 part Gothic shade to 1.5 parts 3%(10vol) ASP Crme Developer, e.g. 50g/1.7g of Gothic shade to 75g/2.53oz of ASP Crme Developer 3%(10vol).
Processing Time
45 minutes on natural white/grey hair (no heat). 25 minutes (gentle heat 40 - 42C / 104 - 108F).
1.117
Gothic Black
4.117
Anthracite
6.117
Onyx
9.117
Silver
10.117
Platinum
Technical Manual
Coming 2011
/21
Important
Kitoko Satin 002 should NEVER be mixed with the other Kitoko Satin shades including 000 Clear. 002 has a slightly different pH to achieve Grey Shades. When mixed with other shades it can give unwanted tones. ASP Satin Clear 000 can be used alone (mixed with Satin Activator 2.8% - 9.3vol) to add shine and texture to fine, dull, natural or tinted hair WITHOUT changing the colour. Kitoko Satin can be mixed with Intensives.
Shade Guide
Kitoko Satin Shade Chart is based on 50% white hair.
Example
Three quarters tube (45g/1.52oz) Kitoko Satin Colour + Quarter tube (15g/0.51oz) Kitoko Satin Clear 000 + 120g/4.23oz Kitoko Satin Activator. Total mix in a bowl 180g/6.34oz.
White Hair
When Approximately 50% white hair is present, the target shade can be used. When Approximately 50% - 100% white hair is present, use the target shade + 25% of the next darker natural shade.
Example
tube (45g/1.52oz) 7.4 + tube (15g/0.51oz) 6.0. Mix with 120g/4.23oz of Satin Activator. Total mix in bowl 180g/6.34oz.
Example
Half tube (30ml) Kitoko Satin Crme + (60ml) Kitoko Satin Activator.
Kitoko Satin Clear 000 Kitoko Satin Clear 000 contains no colour and may be used to dilute the colour of any Kitoko Satin shade. Examples
(45ml) 4.53 + (15ml) 000 CLEAR will give a one shade lighter colour - 5.53 (30ml) 4.53 + (30ml) 000 CLEAR will give a two shade lighter colour - 6.53 (15ml) 4.53 + (45ml) 000 CLEAR will give a three shade lighter colour - 7.53
Remember
When you dilute all shades, except naturals, the tone will be weakened.
Hair Types
Static hair and all hair types that need shine Highlighted Hair
Results
Hair becomes easier to work and more manageable. Satin 000 gives a high gloss finish
Regrowth Application
When applying where there is still colour present in the ends of the hair, the following method should be used: A) Apply Kitoko Satin to the root area only. Process for 15-20 minutes. B) Apply remaining colour to the ends of the hair and massage. If the hair is excessively porous through the mid-lengths and ends, it is advisable to add 25% of Clear 000 to the target shade before applying to the ends. C) The processing time is up to 25 minutes. D) Emulsify and rinse.
Technical Manual
/23
.000
.002
2.0
4.0
5.0
Clear
Silver
Light Brown
6.0
7.0
8.0
9.00
9.23
Dark Blonde
Medium Blonde
Light Blonde
4.2
4.53
4.65
4.776
5.4
Beaujolais
Dark Plum
5.5
6.35
6.43
6.45
6.65
Mahogany Brown
Coconut
Copper Sunset
Copper Beech
Port Wine
7.3
7.4
7.46
8.31
8.32
Sahara
Ruby
Warm Beige
5.036
6.036
7.036
9.035
3.66
Co ee
Dark Chocolate
Milk Chocolate
Cafe Latte
Burgundy
The colours indicated in this guide are a representation only.
Customise your Colour with ASP Intensives - your Creative Colour Palette.
ASP Intensives is a range of un-oxidised pure pigments, designed for use with any permanent or tone on tone hair colour. When Intensives are mixed with another permanent or tone on tone colour that uses developer, Intensives become part of the host colour. This means that the added colour from Intensives is as permanent as the host colour. Intensives are used when the colourist wants to increase or subdue tone. We can use Intensives in two different ways: ADD - When staying on same level, darkening or intensifying tone. Adding to the mix - i.e. 30g/1.01oz of Colour, 45g/1.52oz of developer plus 30g/1.01oz of Intensives added.
Example
Mix 100g/3.8oz 7.4 Kitoko + 150g/5.07oz of your chosen developer + (ADD) 50g/1.69 0.4 Intensives As you can see from this example we are ADDING the Intensives to the mix. This method should be used when darkening and increasing depth and tone. INCLUDE - When lightening and brightening tone. Included in the mix - i.e. 30g/1.01oz of colour, 30g/1.01oz of Intensives plus 90g/3.04oz of ASP Crme Developer.
Example
Mix 100g/3.38oz 7.4 Kitoko + (INCLUDE) 50g/1.69oz 0.4 Intensives + 225g/7.93oz of your chosen ASP Crme Developer. As you can see from this example we are INCLUDING the Intensives to the mix. This method should be used when a lighter, vibrant result is required.
0.2
Violet Ash
0.21
Blue Ash
0.3
Gold
0.4
Copper
0.6
Red
0.76
Purple
The possibilities of colour variations using Intensives are endless. Intensives are designed to let you be more creative and to expand your colour palette. Intensives tones 0.3, 0.4, 0.6 , and 0.76 can be ADDED or INCLUDED in large quantities, if desired, to give bright or vibrant tones. They can also be used on their own mixed with 3%(10vol) - 1 part Intensives to 1 parts ASP Crme Developer - on previously coloured hair to introduce warm tonal effects. Intensives Ash tones 0.1, 0.2, 0.21 are designed to help eliminate warm tones (Red, Copper and Gold) when lightening. On some occasions the colourist may wish to use high lift 12. or 10. series colours on dark bases to achieve light beige or cool blondes. When the colourist uses colours with tones .1 Green Ash, .2 Violet Ash or .21 Blue Ash and high volumes of developer 9%(30vol) and (12%)40vol, the ashening effect in the colour is not always strong enough to subdue the red, yellow and orange generated from the natural colour when lifting. Intensives provide the solution to this problem.
Technical Manual
/25
Intensives 0.1 when added to a .1 colour, e.g. 12.1, increases the ashening effect dramatically. This will enable the 12.1 to subdue more of the warm tones generated during lifting. Similarly by adding 0.2 Violet to 12.2 or 10.2 the cooling of the Gold tone is increased. Care should be exercised when adding Ash Tones to blonde shades, e.g. 10. and 12. series colours . A maximum of 10% in the mix is recommended. Always use INCLUDE method. E.g. 1 tube 100g/3.38oz 10. series to 10g/0.33oz Intensives Ash (0.1, 0.2, or 0.21) + 165g/5.82oz of Developer. E.g. 1 tube 100g/3.38oz 12. series to 10g/0.33oz Intensives Ash (0.1, 0.2, or 0.21) + 220g/7.76oz Developer 9% or 12%
Example
Base 2.0 Target 6.0 Colour used 7.1 Developer 9%(30vol) Colour Result : Warm base 6 By adding 30% Intensives .21 Blue Ash, into dark shades, a true 6.0 can be achieved.
Example
Base 2.0 Target 6.0 Colour 7.1 Plus 30% Intensives 0.21e.g. 100g/3.38oz tube 7.1 + 30g/1.01oz of 0.21 + 195g/6.87oz of 9%(30vol) Crme Developer.
bRED is an off-the-scalp intensive red highlighting system designed to give brilliant results in Red, Red Violet, Red Copper, Copper and Magenta tones on natural or coloured hair. Red, Red Violet, Red Copper and Copper are formulated for use on hair of base 6 or darker. Magenta is formulated for use on base 6 and lighter. bRED can be used with 10, 20, 30 or 40 volume Crme Developer (3%,6%,9%,12%) depending on the amount of lift required. bRED Magenta should be used with 9%(30vol) and 12%(40vol) Crme Developer on bases 6,7, and 8. Use gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) for 15 minutes. On bases 9, 10 and above use 3%(10vol) Crme Developer with no heat. Process for 35 minutes. bRED is mixed on a ratio of 1 part bRED to 1 part of your chosen ASP Crme Developer. Apply a small quantity to the hair using your preferred application method. Process for 15 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) or 35 minutes without heat. When using bRED on dark coloured hair the use of heat is recommended.
Removal
After processing, rinse the hair thoroughly and shampoo with Kitoko ColourCare shampoo. Ensure that the water runs clear. Finish with Kitoko ColourCare Conditioner. bRED is an off the scalp colouring product and is not recommended for whole head application or on the scalp use. If this product is used on very dark, colour treated hair, the colour results will be less vibrant than on natural hair.
Developer Usage
bRED - Red, Red Violet, Red Copper and Copper are designed to give stunning results on all hair types, with low percentage (volumes) of Crme Developer. It is not generally necessary to use a high percentage (volume) of Crme Developer to achieve maximum lift and colour. For best results use ASP Crme Developer as follows: 3%(10vol) on bases 6 and 5* 6%(20vol) on bases 5 and 4* 9%(30vol) on bases 4 and 3* *Depending on amount of colour build-up. 12%(40vol) should only be used when extreme lift is required on difficult to lighten hair. Please remember that high percentages (vol) of Crme Developer will give more lift but may reduce the intensity of the colour.
Technical Manual
/27
bRED Magenta should be used with 9%(30vol) or 12%(40vol) Crme Developer on bases 6, 7 and 8. On bases 9, 10 and above use 3%(10vol) Crme Developer. Generally, 3%, 6% or 9% Crme Developer is sufficient for most lightening and colouring with bRED.
Processing Times
Process for 15 minutes under gentle heat (covered) or process for 35 minutes with no heat. Do not overheat (for example under a hairdryer on maximum heat). Heat is recommended for hair that has a build up of colour. bRED Magenta should be processed as follows: 9%(30vol) or 12%(40vol) Crme Developer - 15 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F). 3%(10vol) Crme Developer for 35 minutes with no heat.
Important
bRED is a very intense colour and should not be used on (or with) blonde/white hair, except Magenta, as this could give unwanted results.
Red
Red Copper
Copper
Red Violet
Magenta
Coming 2011
HotShotz is a True Semi-Permanent Hair Colour that Delivers Exceptional Shine and Vibrancy.
Available in 9 stunning shades, HotShotz illuminates and intensifies existing permanent or semi-permanent hair colour and enhances natural hair colour in only 3 - 20 minutes. It will also cover up to 20% white hair. The advanced crme base with DATEM Technology contains no ammonia and requires no peroxide, meaning HotShotz conditions the hair as it provides beautiful radiance, colour and manageability. HotShotz is easy to use, leaves no re-growth and washes completely away after 6 10 shampoos (depending on the porosity of the hair). It can be applied straight from the bottle or using a bowl and brush or applicator.
If applied to bases other than those recommended, results may be more vibrant or less vibrant. *These shades will give very vibrant results on pre-lightened hair. **Quicksilver is also recommended for use on pre-lightened hair to neutralise unwanted yellow tones.
Application
Shampoo and towel dry hair. Distribute product evenly through the hair using a bowl and brush or applicator. Process for between 3 and 20 minutes depending on result required. Longer processing times will give more long lasting and intense results.
Removal
Rinse thoroughly. Due to the conditioning properties of HotShotz, conditioning after processing may not be necessary.
Tip All HotShotz shades are intermixable to enable you to customise your results.
Technical Manual
Coming 2011
/29
wa rm t
air nh i
ig lP oo C
Technical Manual
m en ts red uc e
Coming 2011
Cool Pigments Green, Blue and Violet reduce the warmth in the hair.
For easy selection of cool Pigments, first identify depth of natural base you are to lift and then refer to the chart below. Natural Base 10, 9 8, 7, 6 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 Dominant Tone In Hair Yellow Orange Red Spectrum Pigment To Use Violet Blue Green
Warm Pigments - Red, Neutral and Yellow increase warmth in the hair.
Use these pigments to give subtle warm results.
Activators
8vol (2.4 %) - up to 4 levels of lift 22vol(6.6 %) - up to 5 levels of lift 30vol (9 %) - maximum 5 levels of lift. For dark bases only. NEVER USE 30vol FOR ON SCALP APPLICATIONS.
Mixing
Blend in a non-metallic bowl to a creamy consistency.
1 level scoop of Pigment (up to 2 level scoops of Pigment may be used for maximum tone deposit)
Application
Apply generous amounts of product for maximum lift.
Processing Highlighting
Cover with a processing cap, unless using foil or meches. Process for between 2 and 12 minutes (max) with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F). Always use a pre heated heat source. Check the lift (lightening effect) every 2 to 3 minutes.
On Scalp Application Important - DO NOT apply to the scalp if there are any abrasions or signs of irritation. Always use protective gloves.
Do not cover. Do not use heat. Do not use 30vol. Process for up to 12 minutes (visual development is recommended). Check the lift (lightening effect) frequently. If desired result is not achieved after maximum processing time (12 minutes), rinse from the hair and re-apply.
Removal
Rinse thoroughly. Shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.
Technical Manual
Coming 2011
/31
Finally the Lightening System you have all been waiting for!
Blonde is an ammonia free highlighting system with an advanced on scalp formulation, featuring our unique DATEM Technology. Blonde will provide up to 5 levels of lift in 15 minutes under gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) DO NOT USE HEAT WHEN APPLYING ON SCALP. It is a gentle alternative to bleach, offering superb lift with low volumes/percentages of developer, leaving the hair in excellent condition. Blonde is ideal for use as a pre-lightener before toners or colour. DATEM Technology - enables maximum lift to be attained in 15 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F) with no damage (OFF SCALP USE). In addition to on scalp application, any highlighting technique can be used with Blonde, e.g. foil, cap, meche etc. Blondes unique formulation makes the product easy to mix. Its pleasant perfume and creamy mix ensures easy application and a pleasant experience for your client. Blonde can be used with all volumes of developer - 3%, 6%, 9% or 12% (9 + 12% are not recommended for on scalp use).
Important
DO NOT apply to the scalp if there are any abrasions or signs of irritation. Always use protective gloves.
Processing Times
ON SCALP: Process for up to 30 minutes DO NOT use heat. OFF SCALP: Process for 15 minutes under gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F or up to 30 minutes with no heat.
Removal
Rinse thoroughly. Shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.
ASP Ice Crme - Ammonia Free Powder Lightener - up to 7 levels of lift, depending on base colour.
Ice Crme utilises the latest technology in powder lightening, being totally free from ammonia. This new technology is much kinder to the hair producing less swelling, porosity and damage. Ice Crme is suitable for on or off scalp use. Ice Crme does not contain ammonia or other odorous ingredients and therefore allows the use of the Apple (white powder) and Fresh Mint (Blue powder) fragrances. Ice Crmes dust free on scalp formulation easily mixes to a creamy consistency. This makes for easy application and the product does not dry or flake during the lightening process. Ice Crme is recommended to be used with 3%(10vol) or 6%(20vol) developer. This will give sufficient lift for most hair types and bases. Ice Crme achieves levels of lift with these developers that are normally associated with using 9%(30vol) and 12%(40vol) developers with traditional bleaches. For on scalp use, we recommend that only 3%(10vol) is used
Mixing Instructions
Mix one scoop of powder lightener with 2 scoops of your chosen ASP Crme Developer - 3%(10vol) or 6%(20vol) according to lift required. For best results use ASP Crme Developer.
Application
Do not wash the hair before lightening. Take fine sections of hair and apply bleach liberally. On virgin heads apply to middle lengths and ends first, then to roots where the effect of lightening is quicker because of the scalps natural heat. On re-growth applications - do not overlap on to previously lightened hair.
Important
DO NOT apply to the scalp if there are any abrasions or signs of irritation. Always use protective gloves.
Processing Times
ASP Ice Crme is active for up to 60 mins. For very dark hair processing time may take up to 50 minutes. Light bases may require only a short processing time. Check frequently. Remember: resistant hair will need a longer development time than porous hair. Always check development of Ice Crme during process. Do Not Use Heat. When the required lift is achieved rinse thoroughly and gently shampoo the hair.
Highlighting
Do not wash the hair before application. Use desired method of highlighting, i.e. foil, meches, highlighting cap, etc. Apply ASP Ice Crme liberally to the hair. Check development time frequently.
Technical Manual
/33
Application
Full Head application, Lite should be applied to the middle lengths and ends first and then to roots . On re-growth - apply Lite to the roots only.
Development Time
Lite is active for up to 60 minutes. For very dark hair processing time may take up to 50 minutes. Light bases may require only a short processing time. Check frequently.
Remember
Resistant hair will need a longer development time than porous hair. Always check development of Lite during processing. When the required lift is achieved rinse thoroughly and gently shampoo the hair.
Highlighting
Do not wash the hair before application. Use desired method of highlighting, i.e. foil, meches, highlighting cap, etc. Apply Lite liberally to the hair. Check development time frequently.
Important
DO NOT apply to the scalp if there are any abrasions or signs of irritation. DO NOT mix the product in a confined space and avoid inhaling the powder. If the product gets into the eyes wash immediately with cold water. Always use rubber gloves.
A Unique Conversion Concept which converts any Permanent Hair Colour Crme to tone on tone Effect
This unique product (2%(6.7vol)), changes any permanent hair colour into a tone on tone by reducing the ammonia level. Converter, when mixed with permanent hair colour, will cover up to 50% white hair. Even if you already have a range of tone on tone colour, Converter will expand your palette by enabling you to use other shades from your existing permanent range. Converter can be used to introduce colour to clients and refresh faded colour.
Application
First Time: Apply from roots to ends. Retouch: Apply to roots only for 15 - 20 minutes. To Refresh ends: Apply remaining product to ends for up to 5 minutes.
Process
Natural hair: 20 - 25 minutes with no heat. N.B. Use a longer process time for deeper colour results and stronger coverage of white hair. Chemically treated and porous hair (tinted/permed): 10 - 15 minutes. Very porous or chemically treated, bleached or immediately after perming: 3 - 15 minutes (visual development). If using as a toner on bleached hair a strand test is recommended.
Removal
After the processing is complete rinse well, shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner. Rinse thoroughly. Do not use heat to process colours mixed with Converter. Do not mix Converter with high lift 12. Series.
Technical Manual
/35
Application
Choose your application method: Spray - Ideal for fast application on larger areas. Gel - Ideal for precise application on foils and meches. 1. Apply sparingly to dry hair. 2. Massage in, concentrating on the most porous areas. DO NOT RINSE. Remove excess product with paper towel. Overloading of Kitoko Instant Pre-Pigmentation can prevent penetration of colour pigment. 3. Apply chosen permanent or tone on tone shade, and process according to manufacturers instructions. The table below indicates correct choice of Kitoko Instant Pre-Pigmentation depending on the target depth: Target Depth 10, 9 8, 7, 6 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 Colour Yellow Orange Red
Condition
Due to its very low pH (3) and the cationic conditioners, Eraser leaves the hair soft, smooth and shiny.
Instructions
use in a well ventilated area Step 1. Mix equal parts of Eraser Part 1 and Part 2, i.e. 50ml : 50ml, in a non-metallic bowl or applicator bottle. This is enough working product for 1 application on short hair. Blend the mixture together for at least 1 minute (this will activate the product) and use immediately. Always apply to dry hair, avoiding the scalp, to the area requiring colour removal and cover with a plastic cap. Process as follows: Removing pale shades or unwanted tones: 5 - 15 minutes without heat. For removal of dark, old or intense colour: 15 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42C / 104 - 108F). Check the hair frequently until desired result is obtained.
Technical Manual
/37
2. When desired lightness has been achieved, rinse well for 5 minutes (for short hair, increase time for long hair) and shampoo 4 times with a deep cleansing/clarifying shampoo). ASP White Ice Deep Cleansing Shampoo is recommended due to it being SLS Free. It is necessary to repeat the operation if the colour has not been completely eliminated. Remix fresh product and apply to dry hair. Process as above and apply Post Eraser.
Important
Do not use Eraser on hair treated with henna, metallic salts or true semi permanent colours.
Q & As
Q: Can I reapply the process after Post Eraser has been used? A: Yes Q: How many times can I use Eraser Part 1 and Part 2? A: As many times as is required until desired result is achieved. Q: If the result is satisfactory after using Eraser Part 1 and Part 2, do I have to use Post Eraser? A: Yes. If Post Eraser is not used, the oxygen in the air may reactivate the pigment and cause darkening. Q: Can I use Kitoko Satin to recolour? A: No. The Kitoko Satin Activating Crme (2.8%) will cause a darker result than desired. Q: Can I use Kitoko with Converter to recolour? A: No. Converter is a low strength developer that can cause a darker result than desired. Q: Can I create highlights after Eraser process? A: Yes.
.2
VI OL
2 2 0..
H AS
ET
10 .2
.4 C OP PE R
0.4
7.6
4 7.6 4 6.6
8.4 7.4
6.6 5.6
8.5 2
7.2 8. 2
9. 2
4.6 4.6 5
6.4 5.4
6. 2
9.4
2. 2
8.43
7.43
1.7
9.34
3 6. 7.3 8. 3 3 9. .3 10
7.1 8.1
LD
9.1 10.1
.1 GREEN ASH
0.1
> Each ring of the colour wheel represents a level of depth. > Darker colours are closest to the centre of the colour wheel. > Light colours are furthest from the centre of the colour wheel. > .0 and .00 are a unique blend of many tones from the colour wheel to create their NEUTRAL status. Therefore they cannot be shown graphically on this wheel. > ASP Intensives are marked on the outside of the colour wheel.
0.76 Intensives 0.76 is not shown on the colour wheel above as it cannot be accurately positioned.
Technical Manual
0.2 1
6.1
.7 B LU E
10.34
4. 3 3 5.
.7 B LU E
.3
GO
3 0.
ASPhair.com
ASP Ltd.
ASP Inc.
2545 Fortune Way Vista California 92081 USA Tel: +1 760 5972929
AI/TECH-BOOK
01/07/2010