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THE Paterek Manual: Supplemen Ted Version
THE Paterek Manual: Supplemen Ted Version
PATEREK
MANUAL
For Bicycle Framebuilders
SUPPLEMEN TED VERSI ON
Written by: Tim Paterek
Photography by: Kel l y Shields, Jens Gunelson, and Tim Paterek
I llustrated by: Tim Paterek
Photolabwork by: Jens Gunelson
Published by: Kermesse Distributors I nc.
464 Central Avenue Unit # 2, Horsham, PA 19044 216- 672- 0230
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This book would not have been possible without help from the
following people:
Terry Osell
Roy Simonson
Kelly Shields
Dr. Josephine Paterek
Ginny Szalai
Special thanks must also go to:
Chris Kvale
Cecil Behringer
Jens Gunelson
John Corbett
Steve Flagg
Dr. Hank Thomas Dr. James Collier
Dr. Joseph Hesse John Temple
Ron Storm Paul Speidel
Laura Orbach Marty Erickson
Mary Rankin Terry Doble
Todd Moldenhauer Jay Arneson
Susan Burch Harvey Probst
Alan Cambronne Laurel Hedeen
Martha Kennedy Bill Farrell
Bill Lofgren Andy Bear
The following companies were particularly help ful during the
writing of this book:
T.I. Sturmey-Archer of America
Bicycle Research
Blackburn Design
Handy & Harmon
New England Cycling Academy
Island Cycle Supply
Primo Consorizio
Quality Bicycle Products
True Temper Cycle Products
Shimano Sales Corp.
Modern Machine and Engineering
Phil Wood
Binks
Dynabrade
Henry James
Strawberry
Ten Speed Drive
G.P. Wilson
Zeus Cyclery
East side Quick Print
Santana Cycles
3M
AUTHOR'S FOREWORD
There are many types of bicycle framebuilders and
they can be easily categorized in the following way:
1. They offer custom geometrical specifications for
each individual customer.
2. They offer any frame components the customer
requests. i.e. tubing, lugs, dropouts, crown,
shell, etc.
3. They offer custom finishing with a wide range of
color choices.
4. They also offer the customer the option of
building up a complete bike with any gruppo the
customer wants.
5. Each frameset is individually built and is not
in any way a mass produced unit.
It is my contention that a builder who meets all 5
of the above criteria can be considered a
"
comprehensive custom builder
"
. Many builders will
eliminate the number 2 option above. They find a set
of lugs, tubes, crown, etc. that they like and stick
with them. This usually gives their line more of a
look of continuity. However, it is also the first step
toward mass production. These builders I would call
"limited custom builders". In addition, some builders
may severely curtail options 1 and 3 as well. These
builders I would call
"
Quasi custom builders
"
. A
builder that offers none of the above options could be
called a "non custom builder". I am a comprehensive
custom builder. Each frame I build is totally unique
and takes 25 to 30 hours of meticulous work to build.
I have close to 100 such frames on the road to date.
I know what works and what won't work in a bicycle
frame. Knowledge of this sort cannot be gotten out of
a book. It must be gained through trial and error and
much experience. I have tried the best I know how to
supply as much of this information as possible. Yet, I
can't hope to get across to other builders just what a
joint feels like when it initially gives during
coldsetting. Nor, can I easily convey those feelings
that
"
something just isn't right." Books cannot really
get concepts like these across to people. However,
books are still the most efficient way to program the
human mind and we must rely on them to do so until
something better comes along. There seems to be an
attitude today that as soon as you read information
about some subject, you are knowledgeable on that
subject. In many instances, this is very far from the
truth. A book is merely a jumping off point or
launching pad for gaining real knowledge. Reading a
book and not following it up with some practical
experience is a dead end alley. What I am getting at
is - Don
'
t read this bock and then proclaim yourself ar
authority on framebuilding. You must build some frames
before doing that. For most framebuilders, the first
ten frames are a disaster. This book should alleviate
a lot of that. No doubt, it will take about 25 frames
or more for most of you to develop a level of
credibility. Keep one thing in mind; each frame is
easier than the one before. Here are a few ideas on
how to keep your nose clean in a career of
frame building.
Don't do major work without a downpayment.
Don't do work on a low bid.
-Don't work when you're tired or frustrated.
Don
'
t cut corners.
-Ride one of your own frames.
-Guarantee your own work.
Don't withhold knowledge from someone else who
wants to learn.
Don't badmouth other builders.
Before going on to read the book, there are some
basic premises laid out within it. They are:
Silver brazed joints are superior to brass.
-Cold setting is necessary to good frame alignment.
Investment castings are superior to stampings.
Butted tubes are superior to plain gauge tubes.
Another item that should be mentioned at this time
is that there are certain discrepancies that may appear
in the book. Two come to my mind at this time:
1. On several occasions mock-ups had to be setup
for the photographer. If the text is referring
to working on a surface plate and the surface
shown is clearly plywocd or cardboard, please
let it slip by.
2. A technical manual usually has the models
wearing official looking work clothes with
sleeves rolled up and flaps on the pockets.
The photos in this book were taken in the
winter in the upper midwest. My shop was
rather cold at the time so please pardon the
fact that I always appeared with a sweater on
in the photographs.
Keeping these things in mind, you may now go on to
read the book. I hope this book launches you off to as
satisfying an experience as the one I have had over the
last six years.
This book is dedicated to
Terry Osell
FRAME GEOMETRY
The following is a detailed description of bicycle
frame geometry. It deals with how to compute angles,
clearances, and tube lengths and how those variables
will affect the handling and riding qualities of a
bike. This information could be of use to a
framebuilder designing a frame, a salesperson selling a
top quality frame, or a customer buying a top quality
frame. The information that follows is based on
certain standards of the industry such as; 27" or 700c
wheel diameter, 1" diameter top tube, 5 to 8 cm of
bottom bracket drop, and standard quill style pedals.
In the case of off-road, tandem, or recumbant bicycles
the rules and specs which follow may have to be
modified or broken. In the case of using the following
information to build frames, a high degree of precision
is required. Use of a stone surface plate, vernier
height gage, bevel protractor, V-blocks, and dial
indicators is highly recommended. In the case of
checking out one's own bike for self satisfaction, less
precise tools may be used such as; strings, straight
edges, carpenters' level, and an inexpensive
level/protractor.
1-1
IMPORTANT:
Before starting, it is important to note two
things; 1-Distances on frames will always be computed
from center to center in this book. 2-An entire
bicycle frame can be broken down into right triangles
so that the Pythagorean theorem can be applied to find
all unknowns.
SEAT TUBE LENGTH:
This is probably the most commonly used indicator
to decide whether a frame is the correct size for a
rider. Most often, a rider is asked to straddle a bike
and lift the front wheel off the ground. On a busy
Saturday, during the spring rush at the local bike
shop, this will usually suffice to sell a $200.00
machine. But when selling a top quality frame or
building a custom frame, a higher degree of precision
and a higher level of credibility is necessary. Tight
fitting clothes or thick soled shoes will tend to cause
great error with this technique. For that reason, I
have developed the following simple procedure and
formula tc figure out seat tube length:
A = Inseam length in centimeters with stocking feet
B = Bottom bracket height in centimeters
C = Crotch Clearance 4 centimeters for touring and
6 centimeters for racing
D = A-(B+C)
E = Seat tube angle
F = Complement of angle E
After measuring the rider's inseam and finding the
other variables (B & E will be covered later), 2 sides
and three angles will be known. With that knowledge,
the Pythagorean theorum can be applied to find the seat
tube length. The following formula will give the seat
tube length. All that is needed is a hand held
scientific calculator:
D [sec (F)] = Seat Tube Length
OR:
D [cosec (E)] =