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Knitwear

Merchandising

Knit Garments

Related with TRADE

GLvb TRADE = Buying & Selling. RGM = Ready met Garments Manufacturing GMT = Garments Manufacturing Technique MZ 2007-2008 Bs A_eQi evsjv`ki ivbxi 78% e`wkK gy`v Avm Mvg _K hv 14.1 wewjqb gvwKb Wjvi| Material Garments Ready met Garments Process

Textile
1. Fibre (KvuPv gvj) _K Yarn (myZv) Zwi nq h me KviLvbvq m me jvK Spinning Mill ej| 2. Yarn (myZv) _K Knit Wear Zwi nq h me KviLvbvq m me jvK Knit wear mill ej| 3. Grey fabric (eYwenxb) _K Finishing ch Zwi nq h me KviLvbvq m me jvK Dying/printing/ Finishing mill ej| 4. Kvcoi wdwbwks _K Rvgv ch Zwi nq h me KviLvbvq m me jvK Garments Industry ev Apparel Industry ej| Avi DjL h, 1, 2 I 3 bs mvwii me jvK Textile mill ej|

Knitwear
1. T- Shirt = (mvavibZ Kjvi nq bv) 2. Polo shirt = (mvavibZ Kjvi nq ) 3. Shorts/Half pant 4. Pant/Trouser Avevi `Lv hvq h, T-shirt Mjv `yB aibi ev Zvi Pq ekx nZ cvi hgb t Round neck/V- neck

Most of fibre/Yarn

1. Cotton (N) 5. Silk [N (a)] 9. Linen (N) 2. Polyester (M.M/S) 6. Acrylic(M.M/S) 10. Ramil(N) 3. Nylon (M.M/S) 7. Wool [N (a)] 4. Rayon/Viscose (M.M/S) 8. Jute (N) GLvb, N = Natural ,A = Animal, M.M = Man made, S = Synthetic. GKgv Rayon/Viscose hv Natural row material K process Gi gvag Zwi Kiv nq ej GK Regenerate yarn ej | DjL h, Natural yarn G limit _vK ( without silk) Avi, Synthetic yarn G Kvb limit _vK bv| Natural yarn K ejv nq = Staple yarn Synthetic yarn (with silk) K ejv nq = Filament yarn

Knit wear + woven production Process

Woven
Vertical yarn

Knit

Horizon Interlacing process yarn 1. AekB 1 mU I 1 mU Ki `yB mU myZv jvMe| 2. Woven Gi Kvco Inter lacing cwZZ Zwi nq| (1 mU Ver: 1 mU Hori: myZv GKUvi wfZi AviKwU XywKq Zwi Kiv KvcoK Inter lacing cwZ ej|) 3. Uvbj j^v nq bv| 4. Woven Kvco Woven Mechanism cwZZ Zwi nq|

1. 2.

3. 4.

Inter Looping Process ay gv 1 mU myZv w`q Zwi nq| Knit Gi Kvco Inter looping cwZZ Zwi nq| (1 mU myZv cvPvq cvPvq Zwi Kiv KvcoK Inter looping cwZ ej|) Uvbj j^v nq | Knit Kvco Knit Mechanism cwZZ Zwi nq|

YARN (Knit fabric (KG `i wKbv nq|)

Coarser (gvUv)

Finer ( wPKb)

Gram per square miter (GSM)

1. Kvco KU ( Cutter Gi gvagt- KvUvi wbw` cwigvci Kvco KvU hvi evm 11.1 mtwgt ) 2. Digital Balance (GK aibi IRb gvcvi gwkb) 3. IRb x 100 Mvg ( awi IRb 2.1 Mvg x 100 )

Yarn numbering
Unit of yarn numbering. 1. Count, 2. Tex, 3. Denier, 4. metric number(Nm). Avgv`i `k Count System Gi cPjb ekx | Tex, Denier, metric number(Nm) International wnme& | Count : 840 MR myZv w`q Zwi nq1 Hank Ges 1 cvD IRb hZ Hanks myZvi Count (+ -Accepted ) ZZ ne| Example: Yarn count is 17 means (count Gi msLv hZ ekx myZv ZZ wPKb ne)

1 pound

17.03 Hanks

Tex: 1000 Miter myZv ev Yarn Gi IRb hZ Mvg myZvi Tex ZZ Mvg| (Tex Gi msLv hZ ekx myZv ZZ ekx gvUv) Example: Yarn Tex is 23 means

1000 miter Yarn

23 Gram.

Knitwear count use (20,24,26,30,34,40) 20/1 or 24/1------------ use in knitwear. OR- 20/S, 30/S ( 1 = S = Single of Yarn) Other one is , 20/2 or 20/3 or 20/4 20/ ply/plied yarn ( 2 or 3 or 4 = Ply/ plied yarn) Ply yarn use in for thread / Sewing fabric.(40/2, 50/2 , 60/2 )

Quality is the customer satisfaction

1. 100% Cotton on the basic of fabric 2. 100% polyester 3. 65% Polyester 35% Cotton 4. P/C, T/C 5. CVC Garments Fabric Yarn 6. 100% Nylon 7. 100% Wool 8. 100% Acrylic 9. 100% Rayon / Viscose Fibre

1. 100% Cotton: There are two kinds of cotton (A) Carded cotton, (B) Combed cotton. (A) Carded cotton Many process 100 kg Row material (B) Combed cotton Many process + With combed Ma: Yarn 70 kg Combed yarn 100 kg Row material

Yarn 75 kg Carded yarn (Hairy yarn)

Combed /Carded yarn me Pq fvj KviY GZ DbZ chyw eenvi Kiv nq Ges Combed Gi combed M/C eenvi nq hvi Kvib 1/2 Bw Gi QvU myZvi KvPv gvj eenvi nq bv | ZvB Combed bMZ gvj fvj Ges `vg I ekx| 2. 100% polyester : (100% yarn is called = Solid yarn, Tatron is the brand name of Polyester ) 3. 65% Polyester 35% Cotton: ( Mixed yarn is called = Blended yarn) 4. CVC: Chief Value of cotton. CVC means more than 50% cotton, P/C means more than 50% polyester. Most common of mixed of P/C = 65/35, 80/20/ 70/30. If 50% Cotton + 50% other mixed with fabric that called Union Yarn. Mlange yarn = Blended Yarn . (Mlange yarn must be mixed with viscose Yarn) Mlange Yarn are many kind they are 1. Blue 2. pink 3. Yellow 4. Grey 5. Ecru Etc. Cotton + Viscose 98% cotton 2% Viscose = Ecru yarn Or 85% cotton + 15% Viscose =Grey yarn Lycra: Is one kind of Elastic yarn (300 800 elasticity) Lycra is trade of Du pont Company (USA) It used in 3 to 7%. Slub Yarn : Kv_vI gvUv Kv_vI wPKb GB aibi Yarn K Slub Yarn ej | GB aibi Yarn jeans pant G ekx eenvi nq| Slub Yarn `yB aibi 1.Regular. 2. Irregular. 1. GREY yarn (is Qvov ), 2. DYED yarn ( is Kiv ) | Basic knit wear fabric Mechanism There are many kind of knit fabric in the world, our country have mainly used in 7 itrm \ Fabric as show in below: 1. Single jersey plain fabric, 2. Pique Fabric, 3. Lacoste Fabric, 4. Iffle Fabric, 5. Rib Fabric, 6. Interlock Fabric, 7. Stripe Fabric Loop Mechanism

Row/Course/Waft (Only Mosquito net)

Column/Wale/Warp(All knit Fabric) Course: A row of loop across the width of the fabric. Measured usually as CPC or CPI. Wale: A column of loop along the length of the fabric. Measured usually as WPC or WPI. Loop length: The length of yarn in a loop . Usually expressed in CM. Loop Density : The number of loop per unit area. (CPC x WPC) Area Density: The weight of loop per unit area. CPC=Course per Centimeter. CPI= Course per inch. WPC= Wale per Centimeter. WPI= Wale per Inch. OZS= Per square Yds( OZS= Ounces), 1 kg=2.2046 LBS(LBS=Pound), 1 Pound= 453.6 gram, 16 ozs= 1 pound, 1yds=36(inch), 1 miter= 39.37(inch) etc.

Single Jersey
Made on one set of needles in the machine. Machine Gauge=24-28. Single jersey fabric look face side and inside is not same, Always different each other side. Needle 1 mU j^v jw^ fve _vK|

Single jersey are two kinds (a) Pique, (b) Lacoste. Mechanism Different: One machine have many parts, some parts of knitting matching are follow: 1. Needle, 2. Cam, 3. Sinker, 4. Cylinder. Knit cam. Tuck cam.

Pique: Lacoste:

Loop. (Avgiv pique fabric loop Mvj `L wPbev ) Knit cam and tuck cam mechanism G Zwi Kiv nq| Loop (Avgiv lacoste fabric loop Qq KvbvKvi `L wPbev ) Knit cam + tuck cam Gi gvSLvb knit cam ewmq mechanism G Zwi Kiv nq|

Needle (GKUv gwkb AbK wbWj _vK GB wbWj mvwii ga wbw` Kvb bv^vii wbWj Wc w`q h wWRvBb Zwi Kiv nq ZvB Wc wbWj wWRvBb| hgbt cwZ 5Uv wbWj cici 1Uv Ki wbWj Wc Ki Zwi Kiv nq|)

 Made on two sets needles in the machine. Double jersey fabric look face & inside is same. Double jersey have three kind- (a) Rib, (b) Interlock, (c) Waffle(Tharmat).

Double jersey plain

Needle 1 set j^v jw^ fve I Ab 1 mU AvovAvwo fve _vK|

1.Plain Rib or only rib or 1 x 1 rib.

Rib

Loop Mechanism Needle 2. 2 x 2 Rib (one needle gap each mechanism) Loop mechanism

3. 3 x 3 Rib (Two needle gap each mechanism) Loop Mechanism 4. 2 x 1 Rib (One needle gap after three Needle each mechanism) Loop Mechanism Rib used in cuff & collar. Rib Uvbj j^v nq| `yB mU wbWj gyLvgywL _vK bv hv wP `Iqv
AvQ| most of rib used in 1x1, 2x1, 2x2, 3x3, 3x2, 5x5 etc. Rib machine gauge 16-18. Needle position is Zigzag ( AuvKvevKv).

Interlock
Needle position Interlock used in Trouser, Sports, wear, Underwear, Bra etc. Interlock Uvbj j^v nq bv | `yB mU
wbWj gyLvgywL _vK hv wP `Iqv AvQ| Interlock machine Gauge 22-24. Needle position is face to face.

There are two kind of stripe fabric are (a) Feeder stripe, (b) Engineer stripe.

Stripe Fabric

 Feeder stripe: Fabric repeat length 4 inch ga nj ZvB feeder stripe. (Repeat length) Red Engineer stripe: Fabric repeat length 4 inch Gi ekx nj ZvB Engineer stripe. Black Dia miter=20 to 40 inch, No. of feeders (no. of cons) =20 to 120 Engineer stripe machine look like embroidery machine. It is 100% Red Computerize machine, it control the needle and feeder. So engineer stripe have Black no limit.( Kvb wbw` stripe w`q i Ki KqKwU bZzb stripe Zwi Kivi ci c~Yivq AvMi wWRvBb (stripe)wdi hvIqvK Repeat length ej| Stripe need must be two kind of yarn.

Machine Specification
1. 2. 3. 4. Dia miter= 12 to 60 inch(20 to 40 are common 90%) No.of feeders (No.of cons) = 60 to 144 ( wbWj vcbi RvMqv K feeders ej|) Machine Gauge = 16-28 Machine Efficiency=80% to 95%. Stripe Kivi Rb 5/6/7 wbWj cici 1/2/3 Uv wbWj fwbk Ki wWRvBb Kiv nq|

Knit wear fabric specification

Finished GSM of the fabric. For example:- 100% cotton,30/s yarn, S/J fabric, Finished fabric, GSM 130-135.

Fiber , Yarn, Fabric GSM vs Yarn count

Factor related to GSM (1) Yarn count. (2) Machine gauge(No.of needle per inch/loop Gi NbZ K eySvq), (3) Yarn tension (loop Gi height Kwgq `qv ev evwoq `qv) | GB wZb cwwZi gvag Avgiv Kvcoi GSM evovZ ev KgvZ cviev| wbg KZ evovbv ev Kgvbv hve Zvi GKwU ZvwjKv `IqvtYarn 30/s 26/s 24/s 20/s 40/s 34/s Yarn count with M/C gauge 24 130-140 155-160 175-180 190-200 95-100 110-120 Yarn count with M/C gauge 28 150 170 190 210 110 125

Comparative different between S/J, Rib, Interlock.

S/J 1. Loop position : Face side Back side Rib 1. Loop position: Face side Back side 2.Loop in both side Interlock 1. Loop position: Face side Back side 2. Loop in both side

2. Loop in 1 side. 3. Curling/rolling happened 4. T/polo shirt body fabric

3. C/R no. 4.Neck, cuff, collar

3. C/R no. 4. Sports wear, underwear

Coloration
Coloration means to apply color on textile materials. Coloration ways: (1) Dyeing, (2) Printing. Printing: To apply color on surface. Dyeing: To apply color on both side. Dyeing process: Water + (Dyed) + Chemicals 1. Fabric Dyeing, 2. Yarn Dyeing, 3. Fibre Dyeing , 4. Garment Dyeing. patter : Stripe [Yarn dyeing Knitting- Fabric (stripe)] Patter : Solid [ Yarn dyeing knitting solid color fabric] patter : Solid [Grey yarn- knitting dyeing-solid color fabric] Fabric dyeing & Yarn dyeing Gi ga cv_K eySZ nj Kvco _K h Kvb GKwU myZv ei Ki `LZ ne cyiv myZvUvB hw` GKB Kvjvi gb nq Zvnj Yarn dyeing Avi mvgvb cv_K _vKj Fabric dyeing . Textile Material Fabric / Yarn / Fibre / Garment. ------------------------ Machine + Fabric+ Water+ Dyes+ Chemicals=Dyes Solution (Chemicals = Salt, Soda Ash, Acid , Softener sequestering Agent) M: L = Material : Liquored 100 kg : 900 liter water Quality of dyes required for particular yarn or Fabric is called shad percentage. For example:- 1% Shad 1 kg dyes required for 100kg yarn or fabric. Below 1% shad Over 1 to 3% shad Over 5% to ---Total Shad percent Dark Color: = Light shad = Medium shad = Dark shad = (0.001 to 12%) 1. Black 2. Navy blue 3. Red 4. Green ( Shad 8 12%) (Shad 0 7%) (Shad 0 7%) (Shad 0- 7% )

Dyed cost
1. For White = 32 to 40 Taka per KG

2. For Black 3. For Other color

= 90 to 120 Taka per KG = 70 to 75 Taka per KG

Knitting cost
1. Single jersey 2. Rib/ Interlock 3. Pique / Lacost 4. Stripe (feeder) 5. Stripe (Engine) 6. Drop needle 7. With lycra S/J or D/J = 7 to 9 Taka per KG = 15 to 18 Taka per KG = 13 to 15 Taka per KG = 14 to 26 Taka per KG = 80 to 200 Taka per KG = 18 to 30 Taka per KG = 15 to 35 Taka per KG = 2 to 2.50 $ = 18 to 25 $

Yarn Cost : Most of Yarn Lycra/Elastic Yarn

Dyeing & Printing

1. Scoured Fabric, 2. Bleached Fabric, 3. Dyed Fabric, 4. Yarn dyed Fabric,5. Piece dyed Fabric, 6. Cross dyed Fabric, 7. Mercerized Fabric, 8. Grey fabric, 9. Finished Fabric, 10. White Fabric, 11. Printed Fabric. There are three kinds of Dyeing Machine :1.Wings,2.Jet and 3.Polyester dyes by Disperse dyes.

1. Scoured Fabric=Grey fabric+Water+Shop/Detergent + Calendaring (Bx) =Scoured Fabric. 2. Bleached Fabric= 1 no process same + Bleaching Powder + H2O2 ( It is always White) 3. Dyed Fabric = 2 no process + Dyed 4. Yarn dyed Fabric = (ccvi wUDei myZvi Kb _vK ci Zv gUvj wUDe vbvi Kiv nq Ges Gi ga gwkb is Kiv nq hv Ab wUDe Kb Zwi Ki|) 5. Piece dyed Fabric = Same as 3 no process ( it is always Solid color dyed) 6. Cross dyed Fabric = T/C,P/C dyed, First Cotton and than Polyester. 7. Mercerized Fabric = Same as 2 no process + NaoH for Shining Fabric (DjZv evovbvi Rb) 8. White Fabric = Same as 2 no process + Whitening Agent (Optical Brightener) 9. Printed Fabric : Bleached Fabric G color paste Gi gvag bloke Ges Skin print nq| Knitting Machine extractor Machine Washing/Dyeing machine(with shop/detergent) Hydro Dryer Calendaring Finished Fabric

Fabric Inspection

 Fabric inspection : Always follow 4.0 point system approve by American Apparel Manufacturer Association (AAMA). Fabric inspection tools: 1. Red sticker (arrow sticker for indicate fault), 2. Measuring Tape 3. Reporting Sheet. Defects :1.Hole,2.Shading,3.Oil spot,4.Loop Missing(Needle marks),5.Slub,6.Fly Yarn. Process : 1. Identify the defects and put red sticker, 2. Measure the length of defects.

Calculation :
Sl. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Defects Slub Hole Hole Hole Shading Shading Loop missing Length defects 0-3 inch up to -1 inch Over 1-3 Inch 10 inch 7 inch 8 inch 40 inch No. of defects 5 6 3 2 2 4 1 penalty point 5x1=5 6x2=2 3x4=12 2x4=8 2x4=8 4x3=12 4+2=6 Total = 61

Formula (Result)
Point/100 Yds2 = X X 100 GLvb DjL GB h, 100 eMMRi ga penalty point 40 nj Normal or ekx

nj Reject .

Production Calculation
1. No. of Needle ? Ans: Calendar= 2r , Needle = 2r x Gauge. r = Radius (evmva) 2. Calculate Production in Miter per shift of 12 hours of a knitting machine. Production in miter/Hours = x Efficiency = Time Require for knitting.

Production technique procedure and cut & sew knitwear

1. Sample section: Sample develop pattern grading 2. Cutting section : Marker making Fabric spelling Fabric Cutting Send to sewing. 3. Sewing section: Garment assembling Garments inspection. 4. Finishing section: Ironing accessories attached checking poly packing cartooning.

Arm Hole Chest

Central back length Neck Sleeve length

T-Shirt 1. Chest=90 cm 2. chest=45 cm 3. CBL = 75 cm 4. Arm hole=40 cm 5. Neck = 42 cm Pattern : Make by hard drawing paper. Marker : A paper/fabric for cut fabric.

Knit fabric problem solving

Knit fabric problem: 1. Shrinkage(msKzwPZ), 2.GSM, 3. Color fastness, 4. Color shading. 5. Elongation (Kvco j^v nIqv) Buyer Dealings Merchandiser responsibilities: Should Received product package from buyer (Shirt/T-shirt, Pant etc.) 1. Paper sketch (Qwe),2. Measurement(PvU ), 3. Stitches (Plain/over lock), 4.Fabric details, 5. Accessories details, 6. Packing details, 7. Other. GB cvWv cvKR cvIqvi ci mj Zwi KiZ ne|

Buyer Dealings
Paper Sample making Not ok Comment from buyer Approved sample Price negotiation FOB +CM

(Free on board+ cost of Making) Or Direct cost Always 20% of Direct cost Always 5% of Direct cost

indirect cost Profit Make final cost for buyer Order confirmation Received Order sheet Material collection Master L/C

Back to Back L/C (for buy material) Testing & inspection Production 3 stage If 1/3 production completed than email to buyer Buyer checked final inspection Shipment Teacher: D. Mosiur Rahman Back waist line Front waist line Crotch/front side Thigh Knee line ---------Inseam

Leg opening

Knit wear fit and style analysis

There are various style of knit garment T-shirt like as-(1) Body fitting Y-shirt,(2) Easy T-Shirt, (3) Reglah T-shirt, (4) Tetrale Neck T-shirt,(5) Woodek T-shirt. Body name of T-Shirt (1) Centre front CF, (2) Princess line, (3) Side seam,(3) Waist line, (4) Bottom opening, (5) Shoulder point,(6) High point shoulder HPS, (7) Chest line, (8) Hip line, (9) Neck line, (10) Bust line. Dress are two type : 1) Casual 2) Formal Casual-Sport wear, leas use wear, underwear. Formal-Shirt. Style is nature of human being. Style variation: 1. Shape , 2. Value addition, 3. print/dyeing/embroytary,4. Color, 5. Material-Knit, woven, fur, place, length Style mainly depends on them. THEM Mood Inspiration Source

Knitwear tops variation- (1) Gather in princess line top style,(2) Cowl neck top style,(3) pleatted opening style, (4) Layerd opening style.

Different sewing method and machine layout and stitch.

What is apparel / Knitwear merchandising? From order collection to file close, every responsibility & handling of all kinds of specifications to shipment process and file closing are of Buyer. Operational sequence of production: Merchandising Pre-order merchandising (Marketing) Buyer search Inquiring received Pricing Negotiation Order Confirmation Post merchandising (Execution) Order trims/ACC/Fabric Fabric trims/ACC: Approval Row material in house Production-Shipment Payment receive-File closing.

Garment Woven Cut & Sew (knit) Knit fully fashion Knit (Sweater)

Different Sewing method & stitches

Stitches are two types 1. Needle + Bobbin = Lock stitch 2. Needle + Lopper = Chain stitch British Standard Institute (BSI) BSI have 6 type of stitch method 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Class Class Class Class Class Class 100 Chain stitch 200 Hand stitch 300 Lock stitch 400 Multi tread chain stitch 500 over edge chain stitch 600 covering chain stitch.

A Chart of Machine mechanism & production Name Machine Single needle Double needle Over lock Pead of the arm / cylinder Kansai/Multi needle Normal button hole Bar taking Flat lock Eyelet hole Fusing Snap attach Button attach Strait knife cutting Metal detector Type of stitch Lock stitch Lock stitch Chain stitch Chain stitch Chain stitch Chain Chain Chain Chain Chain Chain Chain Chain ----stitch stitch stitch stitch stitch stitch stitch stitch BSI C-100 C-300 C-500 C-500 C-400 C-600 C-600 C-600 C-600 C-600 C-600 C-600 -----Use in stitch on Garment Shoulder, blind stitch at formal pant hem(fvR Ki wmjvB) etc. Pocket, Placket, side slide etc. Side seam, In seam, Arm hole, Shoulder joint etc. Side seam, In seam, Arm hole, Shoulder joint etc. Waist belt of trouser decoration stitch. All kind of knitted hem All kind of knitted hem All kind of knitted hem All kind of knitted hem All kind of knitted hem All kind of knitted hem All kind of knitted hem Cutting Check the broken needle

 Needle Type- 1. Sharp , 2. Ball, 3. Universal

Sharp

Ball

Universal

Knit Garment Process Breakdown

For T-shirt
Sl. Front Back Assembling 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Front 1. Back 2. Assembling Operation/ process Nil Nil Shoulder joint Neck rib mouth joint Neck joint Neck to stitch Sleeve hem Sleeve joint Side seam joint Bottom hem Front rise close Back rise close Side seam Type of M/C ----O/L SNLS O/L SNLS F/L O/L O/L F/L O/L O/L O/L No. of M/C ----01 01 01 01 01 01 `01 01 01 01 02 Attachment -------------For Trouser Standard Minute Value ---10 sec 03 sec 18 sec 12 sec 45 sec 70 sec 90 sec 90 sec Production/ Hour --330 pcs 1000 pcs 180 pcs 100 pcs 60 pcs 40 pcs 30 pcs 30 cs 170 170 170 Remark -----

3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Acco.

joint Elastic 2 mouth closer Elastic joint with belt Level joint Waist belt top joint Inseam Bottom Hem Atteched

SNLS O/L SNLS F/L O/L F/L

01 01 01 01 02 02

180 60 50 50 30 50

Prepared by by

Checked by

Approved

For sewing layout formula

Front part Back part 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Assembling part Neck Sleeve Shoulder Side seam Bottom Hem Accessories

Tread Consumption
M/C Name Stitch Name Lock stitch Chain stitch Over lock chain 3+ Over lock chain 4+ Over lock chain 5+ Covering chain 4+ Covering chain 9+ No. of Needle 1 1 1 2 2 2 4 Tread use /inch 2.5 4 14 17.5 23 25 32

Tank Top (Sleeveless Garments)

(1) (2) (3) a. b. Measurement : Garment Measurement Fabric Weight (GSM) Allowance . Neck = 48 cm + 4 (allowance)=52 cm Chest = 104 cm + 6 = 110 cm

c. d. e. f. g. h. i. j. k. l.

CBL = 68 cm. (center Back Length) Arm hold = 50 cm HPS = 70 cm + 4 (allowance) = 74 cm (High shoulder point) Body GSM = 170-175 Rib GSM = 215-220 Sewing allowance Seam allowance (Bottom hem, sleeve , neck, hem) Shrinkage allowance Neck weight = 2 + 5 = 7 cm

Consumption Calculation
Here , L= Length W = Weight

CPD (Consumption per Dozen) =

Mens T-Shirt
Measurement 1. Neck = 42 + 2 = 44 cm 2. HPS = 75 + 4 =79 cm 3. Arm hole = 42 + 4 = 46 cm 4. Sleeve opening = 20 + 2 = 22 cm 5. Sleeve length = 22 + 4 =26 cm 6. Neck width = 2 + 5 = 7 cm 7. Hem width = 2 + 2 = 4 cm 8. Chest = 92 + 6 = 98 cm 9. Slye depth ( from CBP to arm hole middle point) 10. Body GSM = 145-150 11. Rib GSM = 180-185

CPD (Consumption per Dozen) =

(cwZwU cvU ev Aski Rb Avjv`v Avjv`v KbRvgkb KiZ ne DjL h wf ev Kvd Gi L x W x 12 x GSM x 2 b KiZ ne|)
Costing for a T-shirt
Costing means total cost +profit

Cost

Direct Cost

Indirect Cost

Profit

1. Fabric 2. Accessories 3. Cost of Manufacturing

It is depend on manufacturer. Generally indirect cost consume from 15-35% of Direct cost.

5% of Total value

 Printing rate-1 to 2.5$/dozen Embroidery 10,000 stitch= 0.25 to 0.30 $/Dozen

Washing Name
Normal wash, Acid wash, Enzyme wash, Bleach wash, Stone wash, Sand blasting wash, Hand rubbing wash, Caustic wash, Big polish wash, Silicon wash, P.P. Spray Wash rate-1 to 12 $/Dozen What is Trims & Accessories? Trims means T-shirt or other Garment have many Accessories attached with Germans body that is Trims and Without attach that is accessories.

Sewing tread in use

1. T-shirt 2. Polo shirt 3. Trouser = 100 miter = 120 miter = 160 miter

Garments Commercial Activities

Should received from buyer an order sheet/contract sheet. Then open a master L/C (Irrevocable L/C)

Paper requirement for L/C

Valid trade license Income tax declaration/Tin. Membership certificate. Memorandum of Association. Insurance cover note. Photograph. A copy of Indent/Agreement form.

 Guarantee Certificate. Master L/C Gi Total amount Gi 70% -90% UvKv Back to Back L/C Gi ga Transfer Kiv hvq| (GKUv Master L/C Gi wecixZ Back to Back L/C AbK jv Kiv hvq) Master L/C Back to back L/C Proforma Invoice: For fabric/Accessories buy form. Bill of landing : For export from ship management Inspection certificate: From buyer Bill of landing: Ship Captain.

Kind of Sample
1. Approved sample, 2. Fit sample, 3.Proto-type sample, 4.Pre-production sample, 5. Size set sample, 6 Production sample, 7.Custom/mutilated sample (For custom), 8. Shipping sample (for buyer)

Import

Export

1. Master L/C copy 2. Back to back L/C

1. Inspection certificate 2. Bill of Landing

Garments Orders
FOB = Free on board CM = Cost of manufacturing CMT = Cost of manufacturing with trimming C & F = Cost (FOB) & Freight CIF = Cost (FOB), insurance & Freight

Formula for Change from Tex to Count or, Count to Tex Tex Count = = Sewing Tread consumption

Lock stitch 1 inch Over lock stitch 1 inch Over lock stitch 1 inch Over lock stitch 1 inch Flade lock stitch 1 inch

= Sewing tread use in 3 inch = Sewing tread use in 12 inch = Sewing tread use in 15 inch = Sewing tread use in 18 inch = Sewing tread use in 12 inch

( 3 tread) ( 4 tread) ( 5 tread) ( 3 tread)

AQL = Acceptable Quality level

WARP = Worldwide responsible apparel production