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Special Hotel Issue: The Paris Palace Revolution
Special Hotel Issue: The Paris Palace Revolution
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Temps Modernes
towns and villages in France are filled with music. Instruments in hand, people of all ages everywhere turn out for the annual Fte de la Musique, singing and dancing until the sun comes up. This year, that free, much-beloved grassroots festival marks its 30th birthday. And thats something to celebrate, because during the Fte, our elegant, monumental French capital becomes a light-hearted, playful, magical place. For one enchanted evening, Parisians are not only friendly, theyre joyful. We owe this event to two remarkable men: Maurice Fleuret and Jack Lang. Fleuret, who died in 1990, was an eminent musicologist, an ardent champion of French contemporary music and a tireless advocate of music-making, which he valued above passive listening. He was named Director of Music and Dance at the Culture Ministry in 1981, the year Lang became Minister of Culture. Franois Mitterrand had just been elected president, and the motto of the day was Changer la vie. Im not sure they really changed life, but thanks to those two visionaries, for at least one night a year it has never been quite the same. The pair had a hunch that the event would be a success: Statistics showed that five million people (nearly 10 percent of the population) played an instrument, and that one of every two young people did. Their idea was to get all those musicians into the street to play for others and make others want to play too. Fleuret came up with a catchy slogan, Fates de la musique, Fte de la Musiqueand the rest is history. Each new edition serves up memorable moments: seniors doing the twist, young lovers lost in a slow waltz, marital disputes working themselves out in combative tangos. Gathered around a small band on a corner you might see chic revelers, sweet old grand-mres, African funk rockers, pink-mohawked punks, black-clad Goths, paunchy rockabilliesin short, people just like you and me. What they all share is a sense of pleasure at being in Paris, suddenly a sensual, open, amenable city. Bars spill out onto the sidewalks, terraces overflow, even the police seem to be floating on a cloud. Smiling, tolerant, gallant, they walk in pairs like lovers, occasionally offering
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JO L AUTREDOU/CAROLINE MARCHAL