Heritage Walk

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INTRODUCTION Campus Walk is an effort of Architect Saif Ul Haque towards development of a guideline for conservation policy of the sites

in Dhaka University area and awareness. It started during a slide presentation of architecture of Dhaka to the Asian Study group. The enthusiastic audience proposed a tour to the architectural sites in Dhaka. During the visit, viewing the condition of the built heritage initiated the architect to undertake a comprehensive conservation project of the remains in the Dhaka University area and the greater Ramna. And from then on, a tour within the Dhaka University campus is arranged in irregular basis. The sites visited in the Dhaka University campus is known as the Campus Walk. The beginning of Dhaka University was a splendid Imperial compensation of the British for the annulment of the partition of Bengal in 1911. The suggested site for the University of Dhaka was the forming part of the civil station at Ramna where a wave of building activities were generated to house the provincial government officials in 1905. Dhaka has gone through many phases during her 400 years of existence. The major historical phases of the city are Mughal Colonial Modern Interestingly, Campus Walk takes us to remain of each & every era that the city has gone through. The City of Dhaka throughout her history suffered from a lack of planning and relied very much on spontaneous and haphazard growth. The demarcation of pre Mughal Dhaka, (1608 1764) (1764-1947)

Mughal Dhaka or Colonial period is on the verge of disappearing due to such uncontrolled unplanned development process. The objective of the walk is to Creating awareness on built heritage Preservation of the historic sites and significant buildings Drawing attention to their conservation needs

1.

HISTORY OF DHAKA UNIVERSITY CAMPUS

1.1

Decision of the establishment of a University

The partition of Bengal in 1905 gave people of Dhaka opportunities to develop in education sector, economy that it was deprived from. When the partition was annulled in 1911, the establishment of Dhaka University came as compensation to its people in 1921.
1.2 The Site

The proposed site for the university was about one square mile area of Ramna civil line of the government of East Bengal and Assam. The history of Ramna dates back to 1610 of Mughal period. The name Ramna was also given by the Mughal. At that time in Nilkhet two residential areas, Mahalla Chiestian and Mahalla Sujatpur were developed for the Mughal High officials. During the time of Islam Khan, Dhaka flourished as the capital of Mughal subader in 1608. When Shah Suja, shifted the capital to Rajmahal in 1640 along with many areas of Dhaka, Ramna became barren. From then on the city continued to decline until the middle of 18th century. With the ascendant of the British, the middle 18th century marked an end to the decline and lead to a physical renewal of the city. Colonial Dhaka was divided broadly into two areas, one that overlapped and stretched from the existing Mughal city and the other developed away from the existing city into newer grounds. The later is Ramna. The features of the renewed physical growth of this period were the attempts of the colonial power to build urban environment they were familiar with in their adopted city. The first rebuilding of Ramna started as early as 1825. The jungles of Ramna were cleared for laying out a racecourse and a European club.

The gradual colonization of Ramna was started by way of constructing garden and country houses in 1840, led by an Armenian landlord. The first houses in Ramna found themselves in a real wilderness. When the city became capital of new province of Bengal in 1905, the government buildings were placed south of Ramna racecourse. A spacious garden suburb with bungalows for civil servants was laid out north of it.
Dhaka University Campus & its surrounding

The government buildings constructed during the partition of Bengal were government houses, educational institutes and residences of civil servants. Curzon Hall, Old High Court was built at this time. This new official enclave was given away to the Dhaka University after the annulment of the partition. At present, the area from the Arts Faculty of Dhaka University to Bangla academy was known as Sujatpur. To the south west of the old racecourse was the area named Chiestian. The Nawabs of Dhaka developed Shahbag during the colonial period; it was part of the Bag e Padshahi, the Mughal garden. Which was also a part of Ramna. The Nawabs pleasure garden lives in documents only. Now the university Arts Faculty and Institute of Fine Arts are here.

1.3

Reminiscences of the past

The historical background of Dhaka University area identifies that it not only owns elegant buildings from the British colonial rule but also of different artifices of different historical phases that the city has gone through.

Dhaka University also introduced the modern architecture of Bangladesh with the two great buildings, Institute of Fine Arts and the Dhaka University Library, then known as Public Library. The edifices of different periods existing in the campus are 1. Musa Khan mosque 2. Khaza Shahbaz mosque and tomb 3. Nimtoli Dewri 4. Greek mausoleum 5. Ghuru Dawra 6. Temple inside Teacher Student Center 7. Curzon Hall 8. Darbar Hall 9. Fazlul Haque hall 10. Salimullah Hall 11. Medical College 12. Bardhaman house 13. Dhaka university Vice Chancellor house 14. Art College 15. Dhaka University Library 16. Teacher student center, Dhaka University 17. Shiv temple

2.
2.1

CAMPUS WALK
The Tour

The buildings visited in the Campus Walk are tomb, two different styles of mosques, and a house to accommodate the council member of the governor of the colonial emperor. Of modern period are a institution and one library. Most of these buildings are still in use. The chronological lists of these edifices are 1. Musa Khan Mosque (early 17th century, Pre Mughal era) 2. Khaza Shahbaz Mosque & Tomb (1679,Mughal) 3. Greek Memorial (1843) 4. Curzon Hall (1904, Colonial) 5. Bardhaman House (1906, Colonial) 6. Art College (1953, Modern) 7. Dhaka University Library (1952~1955, Modern) 8. Teacher Student Center (1966, Modern)
2.2 The Edifices

The following describes and assess the architectural qualities of the buildings and their historical context.

Mosque of Musa Khan (Early 17th century): The Subader Islam Khan was send to the province to calm the rebelling Baro Bhuiyans, the sovereign rulers of Sonargaon. Musa khan was the son of Isa Khan, who was the most

prominent of the Baro Bhuiyans. It is believed that Musa Khan has erected this mosque in the early 17th century. But Dani has shown that the mosque was actually built by the grandson of Musa Khan. The mosque is located in the northwest corner of the present Shahidullah Hall. It was known as Bag E Musa at that time. Which means the garden of the Muslims. The mosque was built on a high platform above a series of living cells. Its eastern paneled face is pierced with 3 arched doorways. Each opening under a half dome and flanked on either side with slender pilasters. There are four-corner turrets and the prayer chamber is covered with 3-shouldered domes, each resting on a battlemented rim. The grave of Musa khan is located to the northeast of the mosque. It is the only remains of pre Mughal Dhaka.

Khaza Shahbaz Mosque & Tomb (1679): With a Mughal mosque, a tomb structure and an almost intact gateway, Khaza Shahbaz is a trace of very few extant Mughal structures in the city. Haji Khaza Shahbaz was known as the merchant prince.

It was the era when Bengal was experiencing the status of provincial Mughal capital. At that time, Shaista Khan was the subedar. It was the golden phase in history of Dhaka. Khaza Shahbaz built the mosque in 1679 AD The mosque is situated upon a high land in the northwest part of the complex. Stylistically, the mosque belongs to the Shaista Khani architecture. Externally it measures 68x25 elongated to the north south. It has four octagonal turrets at four corners, rising little above the roof level. The mosque featured three domes on a spacious oblong structure. The tomb structure is situated upon another highland 50 northeast of the mosque. The structure is derived from the basic module of indo Islamic tomb structure. A hemispherical dome was upon a cubic volume. The south wall had 3 entries, of which only the middle one now exists. Four octagonal turrets in four corners rise vertically over the roof ending up into solid kiosks. The extended part of the tomb of Shahbaz is covered by douchala vault, which is an indigenous influence of Mughal architecture. Use of bold panel work upon plastered wall, controlled use of low relief work of vegetable origin, small blind arches and an attempt to make the simply double curved arch more impressive by using multi foiled plaster work, all indicates a Mughal style with the essence of local influence. Once to the southwest corner of Ramna racecourse, the mosque and the tomb stand in solitary. Now, at the west there stands the red brick Shishu academy and another corner the sculptural mausoleum of the three leaders. The mosque stands in midst of these structures testifying time. Greek Memorial (1840 ~ 1843): The first Greek settlement at Dhaka was established in the second half of the 18th century. They were the descendants of Alexis Argyree, the founder of the geek colony at Calcutta. Alexis and others at that time setup their residences in Dhaka and Bakerganj.

The first church of the Greek was built in 1821. But it collapsed during the devastated earthquake of 1897. Some referred that they also had their separate small cemetery in Sujatpur, which is now in the Dhaka university campus. The only reminiscence of the Greek now is the tomb of an unknown person in the Dhaka University's Teacher student center compound on Kazi Nazrul Islam Avenue. It is a square building with projecting bays on 4 sides. The plan is of cruciform in shape. The projecting bays on each face consist of 2 fluted Doric columns each carrying a triangular pediment. The eastern face is inscribed with a Greek inscription blessed are those who came and received. The entrance to the memorial is from the east. There are nine black stone inscriptions on the interior walls. Five are in Greek and four in English. This little tomb now stands silently in the corner of the lawn of the universitys teacher student center grilled to avoid disturbance. Some stops by to figure out the reasons of its existence there. Some just pass by without knowing.

Curzon Hall (1904): In 1904, the premise of Dhaka College was decided to move to Nimtoli. For that purpose 65 ekor of land was acquired from the Railway Department. The Bhawal Princes promised to build a library for the College in the acquired land. The library was named after then

governor, Lord Curzon. This is the premises of the now Science faculty of the Dhaka University, the Curzon Hall. Curzon Hall is the earliest of the buildings that came in existence during the first partition of Bengal in 1904. Lord Curzon himself laid its foundation in 1904, 19th February. The building illustrated a blending of Mughal and European Renaissance architecture. An Artist from Rajasthan prepared the design of the building. The building is symmetrical in plan facing north. It has a central hall and series of rooms in the either side of its east and west wings. Its central projecting bay with wide arched portals windows above has a compelling charm of its own. The length, breadth and the height of the building are 110x60x48. The verandas have fretted screens with arched openings. The arched opening in the ground floor is of European style while upper floor opening is influenced by Mughal architecture. Its elevations are attractively variegated by a series of panels, bracketed eaves and kiosks crowning the roof. The corners are relieved with minars. As the science faculty grew, a number of three and four storey buildings were built in close proximity of the Curzon Hall to accommodate various science departments including one dormitory. These buildings were built of red oxide coated exposed brick and according to architectural vocabulary of the Curzon Hall. These buildings have given the campus a sense of aesthetic consistency and dignity. Bardhaman House (1906): Dhaka being the capital in 1905 was vibrant with building activities of hybrid Mughal and European style. Along with beautiful structures for government offices and residences for officials were built in different location in the vast Ramna.

The administrative council members came to Dhaka on official work once a year. Three important building for them were built during this time. Bardhaman House is one of these three buildings constructed in 1906. Maharaja of Bardhaman built this building for his convenience. The building was originally a two-storied building. It is an exclusive colonial style of the late 19th century and early 20th century. The plan is rectangular in shape. The central bay is projected out with the main entrance portico. Wide arcaded veranda runs in front of the structure with balustrade railings. The arches are all semi circular. The verandahs act as shading devices and easy circulation. There are semicircular open balconies. The main arcaded portico through a flight of red oxide steps to the building leads to the wooden staircase giving access to the upper story. Another floor was added in 1985. After the partition of 1947, the building as used as official residence of the new prime minister of East Bengal. It was on December 3 1955, Bardhaman house was declared the Bangla academy, an institution devoted to the development of language, literature and culture of our country.

Art College (1953): Construction of the Art College in 1955 on the west of the Suhrawardi Uddyan in Dhaka marked a distinct and definite change in architectural scene in Bangladesh. The use of exposed brickwork and roof overhangs reflected the architects concern for exploration of the aesthetic possibilities of indigenous building materials and means to ensure protection from the climate.

The site is a beautiful wooded tract of land. The front block of school stands on pilotis allowing entering the building without any obstacle. The openness of the building is thus established. Hand made terracotta jails were used to define boundaries and spaces and also used in the veranda railings. Conscious efforts were made to interrelate the open space within and outside the school boundaries. The pathways through levels of enclosures and garden spaces and a natural and sensorial ambience, create a campus ideal for the contemplation and learning of arts. The site of Art College was garden of the Nawabs. There was a pond for the female members of the Nawab family. It had artificial system of filing and drainage of water. According to the historian Muntasir Mamoon its the dry pond in the Art College. The few public spaces that still exist in Dhaka; Art college premise is one of them. Whether its to welcome baishak (Bengali new year), or falgun (spring) or to protest, the Institute of Fine Arts is always vibrant with people, with color.

Dhaka University Library (1952~55): The construction of the Public library (now Dhaka University library) marked the Bengali modernism introduced by architect Muzharul Islam. In the Library, flat roofed rectangular volumes lifted from the ground on cylindrical pilotis, a simple arrangement of masses, free flowing and interpenetrating spaces, sunbreakers and screen walls for cutting the glare of the sun are the dominant features.

Several addition and alteration has been done to the interior of the library to accommodate the present need. These changed the quality of the space that the building was actually designed for.

TSC (1966): To meet the increasing number of students in 1961, a division of Student Affairs of Dhaka University was formed. This division was later integrated into Teacher Student Center. The construction of the building started in 1962 and completed in 1966. TSC is a complex of buildings, providing a wide variety of recreational and cultural facilities. The center includes a cafeteria, an auditorium with a capacity of 1000, and a library, reading room, art and music rooms and a stage. It also includes other facilities such as swimming pool, a provision store, a bookshop and a bank.

Beside the swimming pool, there are unidentified remains of 2 temples and a tomb of a socalled zamider. There is also a temple of lord Shiva just outside the TSC complex. According to the priest of the temple, the builder of that temple and these structures are the same zamider. Inadequate information binds us from being sure. But as the Greek tomb in the complex, these structures also testifying time from their very beginning.

3
3.1

SCOPE OF THE PROJECT


Prospect of Campus Walk

The guideline for developing the campus walk in brief can be sketched out as Literature survey of published material on the concerned buildings Description of the edifices. Study of existing drawings and photographs Study of Map of Dhaka University campus. Survey of existing condition Photographic survey and area.

Campus Walk is at present dealing with the preparation of a general report of historical analysis and architectural quality of the buildings in concern. This survey analysis would lead to the answer of the questions What to conserve Why to conserve

3.2

Ownership

Though we are saying, its a campus walk, the buildings visited in the tour are under different ownership. Bardhaman House is under Bangla Academy; Shahbaz Khans mosque is under the Archeology Department. The rest of them are under the authority of Dhaka University except Musa Khan mosque and Greek memorial The Dhaka University Engineering Division is the responsible authority for the maintenance of the buildings in the campus area. On the recommendation of this division, the University syndicate takes decisions regarding the funds and other matters. In 1985, the collapse of Jagannath Hall common room is a tragic example of what could be also the fate of Curzon hall if not being properly maintained. Jagannath Hall was one of the first three halls built for Dhaka University. We grieve the death of the students, but we should have also counted the responsibility of destruction of our built heritage. The yearly maintenance cost of the lime cement structure of Curzon Hall is rather low. If the structure were maintained, the situation wouldnt have as much grave as now. The corner pillars of the Curzon hall are at present broken. Recently, the balconies of the Curzon Hall annex have been removed as they were in the condition of falling down. The renovation or maintenance of the architectural edifices has long been avoided on grounds of insufficient funds. Proper maintenance could save the buildings falling into ruins.

ANNEX
Conservation situation in Bangladesh

The law that guides the activities of the Archaeological Department at present was formulated nearly 100 years ago with very little revision in the recent past. Buildings of excellence colonial period like Curzon hall, Chummery house, Ruplal house or the modern architecture of Muzharul Islam or Louis I Kahns masterpiece doesnt confirms the criteria that is set for to be preserved as heritage as per the legislation of the country. It focuses more on independent structures or ruins than areas or parts of cities. Conservation of urban areas remains totally out of consideration.

An important conservation event of the city is the conservation and the restoration of the Nawabs palace known, as the Ahsan Manjil. The palace was conserved, restored and converted into a museum (1975-1989) by the government architects and engineers. But the building and her compounds may have been conserved well but it failed for the conserving the surroundings. The understanding of conservation whether it is for historical, environmental or economic reason still remains at a very insignificant level among the city dwellers and decisionmakers.
Conservation in Practice

In the social and economical context of Bangladesh, the decision of preserving an old building is somewhat very difficult. Considering the monetary value of the location often the owner demolish building that has historical significance to us. Sometimes because of non-technical and unskilled persons handling the delicate matter of restoration and preservation, the character of the architectural monuments are being altered and tamper with. In colonial time, the Nawab family of Dhaka developed the area Shahbag. They build their garden house here. Nawab Abdul Gani also built a zoo in the area. The main garden house name was Ehsrat Manjil. This building was demolished while building the Art Faculty building for the Dhaka University. One of the small structures of the nawabs garden house was in the Dhaka Museum complex. But the museum authority has removed it. The Darbar Hall of the building is at present the canteen of the Dhaka University. In 1906, the Muslim League was formed in this building. The fate of this small structure is not also known.

These decisions of the authorities questions how much are we aware of our historic past? Should we not ask ourselves what merit does the building posses before dismantling! Adoptive reuse of the structures may have been considered if experts were consulted.
Awareness

The initiatives in conservation field are few seminars and workshops organized by number of architects and architectural institutions. A study group CHETANA covered one of the initiatives taken by organizations rather than the government is documentation of significant monuments across the country. The other notable documentation was done by the department of architecture of the Engineering University devoted to old Dhaka. The citizens committee in Chittagong, the second largest city of the country successfully saved the century old court building from demolition. In addition, in the same city, a private telecom company who will use it as their office as well as preserve it leased the rail station from colonial times.

CONTENTS Introduction 1. History of Dhaka University Campus 1.1 1.2 1.3 2. Decision of the establishment of a University The Site Reminiscences of the past

Campus Walk 2.1 The Tour

The Edifices 3. Scope Of The Project 3.1 3.2 Prospect of Heritage Walk Responsible Authorities

Annex Conservation situation in Bangladesh Conservation in Practice Awareness

REFERENCES Author/Edited by Ahmed Sharif Uddin A.H. Dani Ashraf, Kazi Khaleed Belluardo, James Islam, Nazrul Book Dacca: A case study in urban history and development, London: 1986 Dacca, Dacca, 1957 An architecture of Independence the making of modern south Asia Dhaka: from city to mega city, Dhaka January 1996

Karim, Abdul Mamoon, Muntasir

Dacca the Mughal capital, Dacca 1964 Dhaka Smriti Bsmiritir Nogori Dhakar hariey jawa chobir khujey Kornel Davidson jokhon dhakay Dhakar tukitaki Antiquities of Dacca, London, 1824 History of Dacca University, Dacca, 1981 Dhakar Itihas History of Bengal, vol ii, Dacca, 1948 Glimpses of Dhaka, Dhaka, 1984

ODoyly, Charles Rahim, Abdur Roy, Jatindramohan Sarkar, Jadunath Taifoor, S.M. Papers/Newsletter/Magazine/News paper

Urban Transformation and the Issue of Conservation in Dhaka By Saif Ul Haque Star City Monday February 16, 2004 Internet Monday April 5, 2004 Monday March 1, 2004

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