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Installation Guide Jul 08
Installation Guide Jul 08
Installation Guide Jul 08
GUIDE
INSTALLATION
Contents
1 2 3 4 5 6 Overview... Polarwall Components... Essential Tools Pre-Planning Foundation Requirements. Wall Assembly i. First stage ii. Second stage. iii. Third stage.. iv. Fourth stage v. Fifth stage vi. Sixth stage.. vii. Dos and donts..................... Forming window & door profiles... Window & door fixing.. Utilities connections Angled & Radius Walls.. Party wall & T Intersections.. Creating a brick ledge Creating a lintel Page No 2 3,4 5 6 7 8 9 10 10,11 12 13 14 15,16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 23 23 23 24 25 25 26 27,28 29,32 33 34 34 34
7 8 9 1 0 1 1 1 2 1 3 1 4
Floor attachment. i. Timber floor. Face mounted.. Sat on wall ii. Pre-cast & beam & block.. iii. Cast in place 1 Roof attachment.. 5 i. Truss roof. ii. Cut roof 16 Damp proof course. 17 Gable construction. 18 Basement construction.. 1 Check list.. 9 2 Concrete 0 i. Pump and concrete access.. ii. Ordering the concrete iii. Concrete specification 2 Placing the concrete into the formwork
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2 2 2 3 2 4
Making repairs and adjustments i. Fractures...... ii. Corner out of square...................................... iii. Formwork not level......................................... 2 Internal finishes 5 i. Cutting service chases.. ii. Hanging heavyweight items onto the wall.. iii. Plasterboard & plaster... iv. Tiling.. 26 Exterior finishes... i. Thin coat renders ii. Sand & Cement renders iii. Brick veneer with cavity. iv. Stone veneer with cavity v. Brick slips. vi. Finishes on battens 27 Health & Safety Drawings PWD 001 Foam / Rail Splice Alignment PWD 002 Typical H & U Rail Ladder assemblies PWD 004 Beam & Block floor construction detail PWD 005 Fixing masonry outer skin to Polarwall PWD 006 Joist Hanger Flooring PWD 008 Roof plate options for truss roofs PWD 009 Basement construction detail PWD 010 Alternative basement construction detail PWD 011 Forming basement slab with kicker & waterbar PWD 012 Lintel support and cavity tray PWD 013 Alternative method for fixing masonry to Polarwall PWD 014 Strip footing with ground bearing slab PWD 015 Roof plate options for cut roof PWD 016 Polarwall Xtra Range PWD 017 Window opening formation
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1. Overview
Polarwall has two parallel walls of polystyrene held in place by a series of PVC rails. Concrete is then pumped between the walls to create a monolithic concrete structure.
Crossties are attached to these PVC rails (shaped U and H), keeping the polystyrene walls at the correct distance to resist the outward pressure of the concrete.
U-Ladder Section
H-Ladder Section
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2. Polarwall Components
1. Rails: There are two rail types; the H and U Rail. They are made of extruded PVC, and come in lengths of 1524mm.
2. Crossties: Crossties are made in several lengths to allow different thickness of concrete wall to be created. They are: 251mm 155mm 302mm
206mm
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H Corner External
H Corner Internal
U Corner
4. Polystyrene: Extruded polystyrene is used with Polarwall Extruded (XPS): High thermal Performance Good mechanical Robustness Very moisture Resistant There are 4-board thickness 50mm, 75mm, 100mm & 150mm. Boards thicker than 50mm have a slot cut into this dimension so it can be placed over the rails.
5. Concrete: Concrete needs to be fluid enough to be pumped and properly compacted within the formwork. Concrete has exceptional qualities under compression but is poor in tension. When concrete is under any tensile stress such as a basement, it needs reinforcing steel to provide the necessary tensile strength. Excessive use of reinforcement in the design should be avoided as it can hinder the compaction of the concrete pour.
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3. Essential Tools
Other than standard tools, the following will make installation progress more quickly and easily. Above grade structures: Sliding/adjustable chop/mitre saw cutting polystyrene and plastic rails Keyhole or reciprocating saw for cutting awkward holes into the polystyrene String or Chalk Line Transit/Surveyors Level Scaffolding or trestle supports Essential to provide easy access to the top of the formwork when pouring the concrete
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4. Pre-planning
Before materials are delivered to site check the following. Sufficient storage for the polystyrene and plastics inside the structure footprint ensuring efficient installation Access location for polystyrene delivery, concrete trucks & pump vehicles Co-ordination of services through wall Co-ordination of all concrete inserts, i.e. anchor bolts, etc. Confirmation of all rough opening sizes for doors and windows etc. Confirmation of rebar requirements, particularly for lintels
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5. Foundation requirements
It is important to ensure that when establishing footings, that they are constructed within a tolerance of 6 mm of level. Using level profiles will help make this job a lot easier. For footings that are out of level, shims can be used to bring the formwork to level. Alternatively H-Rails can be used instead of U-Rails. A small section of polystyrene can then be placed onto the underside of the H Rail and cut to take up any unevenness in the foundation. The H-Rail will be mechanically fixed to the footing as usual. Care must be taken not to increase the depth of the polystyrene too much, and it is advised to have no more than 20mm below the base of the H Rail. It is
good practice although not essential, to provide steel rebar protruding from the
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If foundations are not level then this will cause the initial course of formwork to be uneven, resulting in subsequent lengthy alterations to the formwork.
6. Wall assembly
First Stage Mark out the corners according to the specified measurements on the plan. Set out the building line with a chalk line or string line. This can be protected with a clear lacquer to avoid washing from rain.
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Second stage Pre assemble pairs of U-Rails into ladders using "Polarwall Tie Snapper". Ensure wall layout area is swept clean of any dirt or debris. Always start in a corner; build walls from corners in, never from the centre out. **A U-Corner is needed on the outside corner only the inside corner is to be formed by allowing U rail to meet on the inside corner.**
Align the outside of the U-Rail to the building line on the footing. Then using one fixing per pair of U-Rails, fix the outside rail to the footings. This can be accomplished by hand nailing, using a ramset or by pre-drilling holes with a hammer drill and a 3mm bit and inserting nails. When placing U rails from the corner ensure the inner rail is cut to size. This will make certain the join or splice at the end of the rails finish opposite each other. Inner rails cut to suit the dimension
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Third Stage Start the wall construction by inserting polystyrene into the U-Rail, starting at the corners and working towards the middle.
Fourth Stage After the first layer of polystyrene has been installed, the next step is to install the H-Corner brackets and H Rail course.
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Ensure the Internal H Corner is placed on the inside of the wall and ties are clipped on at the internal corner sections
As with the U Rail, the first H-Rail Ladder from the corner will need one rail shortened to accommodate the length of the internal H-corner.
Once the H-Rails are in position it is recommended that a length of timber is inserted into the top of the H-rail and firmly hit with a hammer to ensure a good fix between the polystyrene and rail. When placing foam at each corner alternate the butt-joints.
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Fifth Stage After the 1st layer has been installed (U-Rail/polystyrene/H-Rail) use a level and plumb corners. Then install outside corner braces on every corner. Make sure corner braces are plumb and cross measurements taken from top of brace are within tolerance.
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Sixth Stage After the 3rd course has been installed the internal bracing should be attached to the wall. Each wall brace should be no more than a maximum of 2 metres from each other. Position the first brace from the corner no more than 500-600mm from the internal corner point.
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Align the formwork with the braces to give a true & vertical wall Carry on installing alternate polystyrene and rails until the desired storey height is achieved. Always screw braces to the rail in the top of the screw slot Attach screws to each horizontal rail the brace is in contact with, but do not over- tighten.
Dos and Donts DOS Rail splices should finish directly opposite each other, except in corners and intersections. Leave a 5-10mm gap between rail end splices. (see diagram B) Both rails and polystyrene on each course height should be bonded. Do not finish
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Min. Rail Length 100mm If rail splices or polystyrene splices are not properly bonded then vertical plywood strapping should be added to reinforce the weakness.
DONT ALLOW RAIL & POLYSTYRENE SPLICES TO BE LESS THAN 100mm APART
Gap allows check on whether polystyrene is seated correctly and if concrete is poured
C
1 to 2mm gap between planks
D
Min Plank length is 150 mm Min from Rail splice to Polystyrene Splice=100mm
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Constructing the formwork around the opening Construct the formwork around the shutter. The H-Rail should be left approximately 55-60mm short of the shutter with the polystyrene extending beyond this, allowing it to but up against the shutter. This is completed until the wall reaches the head of the window.
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Ply shutter and timber strengtheners to hold reveal in place and to form out the window and door opening
A gap between the two leaves of polystyrene is created into which a cut down polystyrene board is slid down and held in place
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Concrete
Facing brick
Fixing
Seal
Window
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External wall
Brace here
Where a T intersection is built that is not a party wall, i.e. it is not a wall separating 2 dwellings, the formwork can be constructed differently. U-Rails can be fixed vertically to the external wall, where the line of the internal wall is to be placed. The area of polystyrene between the U and H Rail can be cut and removed to expose the cavity of the external wall. This will allow the concrete to flow into both wall faces. The internal wall can now be built into the vertical U-Rail. Bracing is carried out as outlined above.
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2.
3.
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16.
Damp Courses
Proof
Waterproof Concrete an approved waterproof additive can be added to the concrete. This is used to fill the formwork to a minimum of 150mm above the external ground level. The pour can be continued above this height with a standard grade mix. Refer to Polarwall Technical Department for product specification
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To give an accurate line and angle of the gable the latter method will allow an easier construction. Once the roof trusses are in place start assembling the formwork, course by course. The 1st course will represent the same length as the wall underneath, with subsequent courses constructed in a stepped formation following the line of the rood truss. Using the truss nearest to the gable as a guide, snap a line down the formwork and cut both the plastic and polystyrene to match. On the cut edge now place U-Rail ladders, which will hold the formwork in place and provide a fixing point for the ply outer shutter If purlins are introduced into the roof, these can be brought through the formwork by cutting a similar shape in the formwork.
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Pouring concrete into the gable is completed by a rolling shutter and is considered in Section 23 of the manual
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See Polarwall drawings PWD 009/010/011 For in-depth information on basement construction builders should refer to the following publications: a) Approved Document Basements for Dwellings (ISBN 0 7210 1508 5) b) NHBC Standards Chapter 5.1 Several British Standards contain relevant information in respect of basement and subterranean construction. These include: c) BS 8002: 1994 Code of practice for Earth Retaining Structures d) BS 8004: 1986 Code of Practice for Foundations e) BS 8007: 1987 Code of Practice for design of concrete structures for retaining aqueous liquid f) BS 8102: 1990 Code of Practice for protection of structures against water from the ground
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Concrete Specification Concrete in a reinforced structure must be a minimum of C35 grade. Although this quality of concrete is considered to be water resistant, it is not unwise for the engineer to also specify a watertight additive be included in the mix. However, waterproof concrete does not in itself provide suitable protection and the external walls should also be tanked.
Waterproofing Prior to any tanking being applied to the external face of the wall, any gaps between the boards should be stopped with an impervious seal. Tanking should always be added to the external wall before back filling irrespective of whether waterproof concrete is used. Before any tanking system is applied the tanking material should be checked for solvents that may be present in the material or in the primer, which may react with the polystyrene. Before any tanking is applied the Polarwall Technical Department should be consulted to check material compatibility. We further recommend that if the Polarwall Approved Installer has not received specific training from the tanking manufacturer then he should consider appointing a specialist sub-contractor with the necessary training and expertise in that particular product.
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Drainage Place appropriate drainage at the side of the slab, whenever possible, and backfill with pea gravel or a similar material. Ideally the complete backfill should be in free draining material but to at least a minimum of 300mm above the top of the slab. Good drainage does not lessen the need for a waterproofing tanking material to be added to the wall, but will reduce hydrostatic pressure and will assist in avoiding water ingress into the structure. If a basement has a walk out area (is retaining on three or less sides) then the drain should be sloped appropriately to run off to the open side of the structure. If the basement is completely enclosed then a sump will be required. The drain will need to be encased in a suitable material (as recommended by the manufacturer of the drain) to prevent blockage of the inlets).
Slab and Wall Connection The joint between the wall and the slab is the weak spot in the structure for water ingress. It is recommended that after the concrete has been poured and prior to any application of waterproofing that a sand/cement fillet is created form the bottom of the wall to the edge of the slab to assist in water run off. If a damp proof membrane is placed underneath the slab it is good practice to oversize this and bring the surplus up the side of the walls and over the fillet. The tanking then can be placed to provide a generous overlap to this surplus.
Waterstops The joint between the wall and the base slab is the weak point in the basement. A waterstop can be placed either by i. Creating a keyed recess when forming the slab and place a semi-rigid waterstop into the wet concrete of the slab. The recess is necessary as the crossties on the bottom course of U-rail may impede placement of the waterstop. Care should be taken when pouring the concrete into the wall to ensure that the waterstop remains in the correct
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iii By setting H-rail into the wet concrete of the slab rather than putting U-rail onto the cured slab the cold joint is broken by the rail and the two legs of both the internal and external H-rail will act as waterbars. The H-rail should be butted together and a hydrophilic putty type waterstop should be added at the joints to provide extra protection. See Polarwall Drawing PWD010 Kicker Construction A kicker up stand will elevate the cold joint and is sometimes preferred. The joint at the top of the kicker shall have a continuous waterstop inserted such as Servitite from Grace. See Polarwall Drawing PWD011
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Wall has been inspected to insure all Crossties are in place on rails and specifically the internal corners All corners are braced with screws to the top of the aperture. All "T" intersections are braced. Each wall is adequately braced with internal braces at no more than 2m centres. Scaffolding is in place to allow easy access around the top of the wall and into all points. Ensure scaffolding is secure and does not present health & safety issues. Ensure all walls and corners are straight, both vertical and horizontal. All necessary reinforcement is in place to meet design requirements. Necessary openings are made for services and braced accordingly. Necessary tools, wall anchors and blow-out kits are on-site ready for use. Any significant gaps between boards are filled with an expanding polystyrene Interior and exterior is organised properly to allow delivery of concrete. Area is clean and clear of obstacles. Check inside of form is clear of debris and free from frost, snow, mud and water. Safety glasses, hard hats, gloves, and waterproof boots are available.
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20. Concrete
Pump & Concrete Access If the site is tight or access difficult it is always wise to get the concrete pump contractor to visit the site prior to the pour to assess the requirements for access not only into the site but for the size and specification of the pump. Sometimes overhead cables or branches may hinder the movement of the boom. Ensure that the hopper at the rear of the pump will not be too high for the concrete to flow from the cement lorry. The pumps hopper can be higher when the pumping is being carried out from a slope, or if the concrete delivery lorry is smaller than usual, such as a Minimix truck. Ordering the Concrete Calculate the volume of concrete required using the following table.
Crosstie Nominal Length 100 mm 150 mm 200 mm 250 mm 300 mm Concrete Thickness in Wall 114.5 mm 155.5 mm 206.5 mm 251 mm 301.5 mm Cu M of Concrete per Sq Meter of Wall 0.1145 cu. m 0.1555 cu. m 0.2065 cu. m 0.2510 cu. m 0.3015 cu. m
Concrete Specification The concrete should be of capable of being pumped which means that the slump must be a minimum of 75mm. If the slump figure is too high, the concrete will exert too great a pressure upon the formwork, so the concrete should be ordered between 75mm and 100mm slump. The slump range required is classified as S2. The aggregate should ideally be 10mm. The minimum grade for the concrete should be C25 for above ground construction, though if a wall is classed as reinforced, it will be need to be a minimum of C35.
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IN ALL CASES THE MAXIMUM HEIGHT OF CONCRETE POUR SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 3.0M IN ANY ONE LIFT
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Corner out of Square Should a corner of the formwork be out of square there is no need to rebuild the wall. Simply come away from the comer about two feet and draw a true vertical line with the aid of a level. By measuring from the line to the corner find the point where the wall started to go out of true. Measure back from the top of the corner to the plumb line by the same distance as the bottom of the form to the plumbed line. Connect to create a V and by using a square locate the corresponding internal points. Cut this V out on both internal and external formwork. Have someone apply enough pressure against the corner until the V closes completely. Fasten with plywood to both sides using four screws for each rail. Formwork is not level Formwork should be checked periodically to ensure that it is level. A laser level comes into its own in this respect. If formwork should be out of level boards can be trimmed accordingly at any level, though it is better to build cut them to the required height as soon as possible. If there are variations on the foundation causing the boards to be out of level then this should be rectified as the first course of boards is placed. Cleaning up It is good practice to use a water hose at the end of the pumping to clean the formwork and to remove any spilled concrete, paying special attention to ensuring that the alignment props are free of concrete spill.
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Plasterboard and Plaster Plasterboard or dry lining is an ideal internal cladding. Screw the lining to the interior horizontal plastic rails. The fire safety of the home is enhanced by mechanically attaching the board to the rail, as it protects the polystyrene and the rail from the flames for a longer time period. It is good practice to attach the plasterboard to the full height of the walls before attaching the ceiling boards, which should then be butted up flush to the wallboard. Likewise it is good practice to use the skirting board at the base of the wall to help retain the plasterboard in place. It is important to note that all joints in the plasterboard must be taped and filled, as should all screw-fastening points. Internal walls can be fully plastered for those who require a traditional finish. It will be necessary to attach a proprietary mesh or lath to the wall to ensure the bond. Tiling Tiles should not be laid directly onto the polystyrene as the PVC rails may cause the tiling to be uneven. However, if thicker slotted polystyrene plank has been used or if a render can be applied (see section 28 Render) in the interior then the tiles may be applied direct. Alternatively a suitable lining board can be attached.
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