Knits

-Prepared by -P.Lakshmana kanth, Senior Faculty IFTK

Introduction
Knitting is the second most frequently used method of fabric construction. Although this technique has been used for a very long time, it is in the recent past that it has gained so much popularity.

 Increased versatility of technique -knitted fabrics are now used widely in applications where woven fabrics formerly pre dominated ( rugs and home furnishing) Knits relate well to contemporary life styles, there is a growth in consumer demand for snug fitting, wrinkle resistant , stretchable fabrics. Knit fabrics are usually soft and drape well, mould easily and move well with body movement, resist wrinkling and pack easily for travel in our highly mobile society

 Adaptability of new manmade fibres....technological advances in the production of spun and filament fibres have made it possible to have continuous streams of new designs and new fabrics. Fashion designers like working with knits because their stretch allows for less structures designs that are able to fit a variety of body shapes. Manufacturers have to stock fewer sizes.

 Stretch and breathability are the main properties of knitted fabrics , hence knits are seen in a diverse range of products such as
socks, t-shirts, sweaters, dresses, slacks, exercise and undergarments.

 Knitting is the formation of fabrics by the interloping of yarns. These loops permit the fabric to stretch in any direction. A single yarn or several yarns may be used to form the loops. New loops are formed by passing the yarn through previously formed loops. Knits can be hand knitted with the use of knitting needles or maybe knitted on knitting machines which can hold several hundreds of needles.

 There are two main classifications of knitted fabrics: weft knits and warp knits. Each uses different kinds of machinery for producing different types of fabrics. Weft knit fabrics are generally used in sweaters and hosiery, while warp knits are fabrics such as tricot and Raschel knits . The hand method of knitting is weft knitting. Knits may be loosely or closely constructed, depending on end use.

Knitting Terminology
Wales are the loops that run in the lengthwise direction of the fabric ( i.e. vertical loops) and can be compared to the warp yarns of woven fabric. Courses are the loops that run across the width of the fabric (horizontal row of loops) and can be compared to the weft of woven fabrics. Stitch is every individual loop.

 Count is the total number of wales and courses in a square inch of fabric. Gauge or cut denotes the number of stitches /needles per unit width on the machine and expresses the fineness and coarseness of the stitches in knitted fabric.

Types of Knitting stitches.

There are four principal stitches utilized in knit fabrics.
a) Plain stitch or knit stitch b) purl stitch c) miss stitch d) tuck stitch

These four stitches form the basis of all knitted fabrics

Types of Knit fabrics - Weft knits

Jersey- also known as single knits is the simplest type of knit fabric. Rows of knit stitches alternate with rows of purl stitches. These fabrics have a tendency to curl at the edges. Jersey knit fabrics stretch approximately the same in both length and width directions. They may be produced on flat as well as circular machines and is mostly used for under wear, t-shirts, seamless hosiery and panty hose etc. One draw- back is that if one stitch breaks, it causes a run i.e an unravelling of adjoining stitches.

 Rib in this wales of knit stitches alternate with wales of purl stitches. ( eg knit 1, purl 1,repeat). Ribs have very good stretch in the width-wise direction. They may be produced on flat as well as circular machines. Rib knits do not curl at the edges; have greater elasticity in the width and therefore utilized for sweater waist bands, cuffs, mens hosiery etc. The rib could be even such as 1x1 rib or 2x2 rib or uneven like 3x1.

 Interlock-special knits that are similar to 1x1 rib knits , but are smoother, more stable, better insulators and more expensive than regular knits. Because of the smooth surface they are suitable for screen printing. Double knits-special type of rib knit that is heavier and more stable than jersey. This fabric has close stitches which provide good stability; it has a patterned or design effect.

 Pile knit- a special type of jersey made by an unique process which involves feeding staple in the form of sliver into the knit fabric while the yarns are passing through the knitting needles as the fabric is being made. After knitting the fabric undergoes finishing processes to produce fur like effect.

 Knitted terry-jersey fabrics that are knitted with two yarns fed simultaneously into the same knitting needles. When the fabric is knitted, one of the yarns appears on the face and the other on the back. One of the yarns is the loop yarn and the other the ground yarn. The loop yarns are pulled out by a special device to form the loop pile of terry fabrics. The ground yarns form the basic structure of the knitted fabric.

 Jacquard-knit fabrics with designs in colours or textures

Warp knits are of many kinds ,but tricot and raschel are the most popular ones.

Tricot is almost exclusively made of filament or textured filament yarns and are knitted on high speed machines. The fabrics have a high degree of consistency in appearance ,stitch per inch, weight of fabric etc Raschel knitting can produce fabrics ranging from fine laces to heavy blankets and even carpets ( on different gauges of Raschel machines)

The knitting industry has 2 main divisions

a) Knitted yard goods industry b) Completed consumer products such as sweaters, t shirts, hosiery etc Full fashioning is a method of shaping a knitted fabric during the knitting process. It is popular in sweater manufacture, where the shape and contour of shoulders and bust can be incorporated into the knitting.

Selecting Needles
When sewing knits, one can prevent snagged fabrics, skipped stitches, puckered seams and thread breakage by using the right needle and thread. Choose the smallest needle size appropriate for the fabric sewn. Light-weight knits - size9 Medium weight knits size 11 Bulky and heavy knits size 14 If skipped stitches occur, use a new needle or try a different size. There are three basic needle types available ballpoints, universal and sharps.

 Ballpoint needles have rounded tips, they penetrate knit fabrics by separating, rather than piercing the yarns, preventing snags. Universal needles are modified ballpoint needles: the tip is more tapered. They can be used for both woven and knits. Sharps can be used on knits with open or loose textures, but are commonly used for sewing woven fabrics. They are not suitable for tightly knitted, firm fabrics as they pierce these knits and break the fibres, leaving holes.

Selecting Thread
Synthetic- fibre thread is well suited for sewing knits because of its strength an inherent stretch. Polyester and cotton wrapped polyester are most frequently used. Extra-fine thread should be used for sewing light-weight knits. Synthetic thread should be wound slowly onto the bobbin to prevent stretching it. If wound at high speeds it may stretch and cause puckered seams.

Seams and seam finishes

When knit fabrics are stretched, the seams also have to stretch to prevent the stitches breaking. The seams may be stitched on a conventional sewing machine or an overlock machine. Knit fabrics do not normally fray, making seam finishes unnecessary

Guide to Fabrics and Sewing Techniques

Two-way stretch knits: Overlocked, double stitched, stretch overedge and straight stretch seams are the best options. The size of the stitches should be 8-9 per inch [setting35] Light weight knits: Overlocked , double stitched and plain seams; zig-zagged edges; 12-16 stitches per inch [setting 2.5-2] Medium weight knits: overlocked, double-stitched, and plain seams; overlocked and zig-zagged edges; 12 stitches per inch (2.5)