Testarossa Cam belts and tension bearings

Workshop Safety

I take no responsibility for your safety in using this how to. You must make sure that you are aware of all safety requirements before starting work Do make sure, when working on a car, that it is supported on suitably strong axle stands and/or ramps - ie NOT JUST THE JACK This presentation may contain errors or omissions please use advisedly.

Nothing other than standard workshop tools

Tools required

Complete the engine removal work as detailed in http://www.scribd.com/doc/193293189/Ferr ari-Testarossa-how-to-remove-the-engine NOTE this how-to does not describe valve timing. NOTE: this description is for one cylinder bank only. Before moving the crankshaft make sure that both belts have been fitted and checked for correct timing.

Based on:

1987 Testarossa Euro Model F113B Tubi Sports Exhaust

Remove all the bolts from the front LHS & RHS cam covers noting the locations of bolts and cable supports then remove the covers

Remove the ignition cables and spark plugs

Manually turn the engine over to put No.1 cylinder at TDC and so that the flywheel and cam wheel markers align. If possible clamp the crankshaft to stop it rotating.

Clamp the cam shafts to stop them rotating. I use a simple home made device from wood
Using a suitable marker, make a mark on a tooth on both the old belt and gear wheel. Repeat the marking on all gearwheels.

Loosen the large bolt on the tensioner bearing allowing the tensioner to fire.
Using a suitable tool, pry the tensioner bearing away from the belt and thus slacken the belt, retighten the bolt. The old slack belt can now be removed. Transfer the markings from the old belt onto the new belt. CHECK your work!

Once the belt is removed, move the bearing carrier to the bench and remove the old bearing with a small puller The bearing will split so remove the inner race with a bearing splitter to remove it from the carrier shaft

Compress the tensioner spring until the bolt hole lines up in the housing Fit the new bearing and push the new bearing onto the carrier shaft completely by tightening the carrier nut Refit the bearing carrier to the engine

Using a suitable tool, pry the tensioner bearing away from the belt and retighten the bolt to hold it away from the belt. Fit the new belt so that all the marks previously made all line up again, see slide 7. Slowly slacken the large bolt on the tensioner bearing allowing the tensioner to fire again, there should now be tension on the belt. Check again that all marks line up. Remove the cam and crankshaft clamps

Once the timing has been checked and double checked.......with slack tension bearing bolts...

Setting and locking the belt tension

Use a Dial Test Indicator mounted to the engine block to measure the depression on the tension bearing (NOT the bolt head) while the engine is rotated. We are trying to determine if there is a high spot in the belt tension while the engine is rotated and precisely at what that point occurs. With the tension bearing slack the bearing will move up and down if there is a high spot. I have never found this to be the case in my experience but that is no excuse not to check. Later the belt will be locked at what would be MAXIMUM tension.

Once (and if) the high spot is found, turn the engine over to this point. LOCK the bearing by tightening the bearing bolt to WSM recommended torque.

Repeat the whole process for the other cam belt tension bearing.
Note that the marks created earlier on the belt and gearwheels are unlikely to line up anymore. What is IMPORTANT, is that the crank TDC and gearwheel marks are still correct as per slide 6.

 Refit.....

Spark plugs and leads

Cam cover cases

Route electric cables and throttle cable as per the notes you took earlier
Beer, job done.