F ABRICS

History and Development

of Textile Fabric Industry
• First mechanized spinning process developed in
England in the 18th century. Fibers could now be
twisted into yarn at a rapid pace.
• First U.S. yarn mill was built in Pawtucket, Rhode
Island, 1790.
• Because of higher demand, yarn mills needed
faster weaving, hence the first power loom in
America in 1814.
• The industry grew rapidly, with demand for goods
far exceeding supply.
10/03/09
MFM -Batch 9/11
 INTRODUCTION

Thetermfabricisderivedfromthelatinterm fabrica

meaningaworkshop. Fabricthereforereferstoany

materialmadethroughweaving, knittingorbonding.

Itcanthusbeclassifiedonthemethodsof

manufacturingas :

•Woven
•Knitted
•Non-woven
 WOVEN CATEGORY
Woven fabric is created by the interlacing of the warp fibres and weft fibresi n
a regular pattern or a weave style. The integrity of the fabric is maintained
by the interlocking of the fibres.

The common weaves of a woven fabric are:

• PLAIN: the warp and the weft are so aligned that they form a criss cross
pattern.
• TWILL: the crossing of the weft and the warp yarns areare offset to give a
diagonal pattern.
• SATIN: It is basically the twill weave which is modified to produce fewer
intersections of warp and weft.
• BASKET: Two warp fibers alternately interlace with two or more weft fibers.
Examples: cotton , silk etc.

10/03/09
MFM -Batch 9/11
10/03/09
MFM -Batch 9/11
 NON WOVEN CATEGORY
It is a sheet or a web structure, produced by
interlocking layers or networks of fibres or
filaments usually by a chemical bonding.

Examples: tissue paper etc

10/03/09
MFM -Batch 9/11
 KNITTED CATEGORY
It completely consists of horizontal parallel courses of a yarn. These
courses are joined to each other by inter locking loops, where a short
loop of one course of the yarn is wrappedo over another course.Knitted
fabric is obtained either by a hand knitted process or by a machine.

There are two types of knitted fabrics:

• WEFT KNITTED-it is either done by hand or

machine by looping together the lengths of a yarn.

• WARP KNITTED-it is made by machine only . the loops in this kind of

fabrics interlock vertically along the length of the fabric.

10/03/09
MFM -Batch 9/11
 Centres of production
Cotton /man-made fabric textile
Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu & Gujarat
Silk -Mysore-(75%)
Assam(Sualkuchi is famous)
Banaras,Murshidabad,Kanchipuram,surat
Wollen-Punjab(40%)
Haryana(27%)
Rajasthan(10%)
U.P,Maharashtra,Gujarat(23%)
Jute-West Bengal-61jute mills
Andhra Pradesh-7
U.P and Bihar -3 each
Assam,Orissa,Tripura,M.P- 1 mill each
 Centers of production world wide

Cotton Silk Wool Jute

China China Australia India

USA Thailand China Bangladesh
India USA Mangolia China
Ownership in organized
fabric manufacturing sector

• Under government scheme- 16%

• Co-orperatives - 10%
• Privately owned - 74%
 Government organizations

• NTC - National Textile Corporation Limited

was incorporated in April, 1968 to manage the affairs of
the private sector sick textile mills.

• TUFS- The Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme , is

fund scheme to facilitate the modernization and up
gradation of the textiles industry including fabric sector.
 Co-operative owned sectors
• Commercial handlooms- Mainly in T.N, A.P and U.P.
Production in the handloom sector recorded a figure of
6947 million sq. meters in the year 2007-08.During
2008-09, production in the handloom sector is reported
to be 6,677 million sq. meters.
• Power looms- Contributes about 70% of the total cloth
production of the country and provides employment to
about 54.00 lakh people. This sector as whole produce
40%of nations output of cotton and 45% of blended
cotton.
Maharashtra, T.N and Gujarat have approx 77% of
powerloom centres.
 Privately owned sectors
• House hold enterprises-Mainly
concentrated in T.N, Maharashtra,
Gujarat, U.P and Karnataka.
• Looms are operated with the assistance
of family members and fabric is sold in
local markets.
 Key players in India
 WithturnoverofUSD279millions, Specialisinginworstedfabric, wool andblendedfabric, stretchdenim

fabric, cottonandlinenshirtingfabric, readymadegarments, woolenblanketsandhomefurnishings

 Annual turnoverofUSD231million, producessuitings, shirtings, sarees, towels, bedlinenandmen’s

apparel. Significantexporterofpolycottonblendedfabricsandmadeups

 Annual turnoverof USD338million, exportstomorethan70countries.Producesdenimfabric, cotton

andblendedfabric, knittedfabric, voiles, apparel

 TurnoverofUSD400million&Significant presenceinacrylicfibre, cotton, syntheticandblendedspun

yarns, greyandprocessedfabrics, cottonandsyntheticsewingthreads

 India’slargest exporterofreadymadegarments, havingturnoverofUSD180million

 Suppliestomorethan100retailersandfashionbrandsacross39countries

10/03/09
MFM -Batch 9/11
 Key players in India
 Leadingproducerofsilkyarnsandfabric(mainlyfordecorativeandbridal use), withannual turnoverof

USD32million, alsointhebusinessofhomefurnishings.

 Amongstthetop3terrytowelproducersintheworld, withannual turnoverofUSD132million,

production includescottonyarns, polyesterfilament yarn, bathrobes, buttonsandsawpipes.

 Belongstooneofthemost diversifiedbusinessgroupsinIndia(AdityaBirlaGroup)andhasturnoverof

USD577million, specialisingintextileswhichincludeviscosefilamentyarnandbrandedapparel; other

interestsincludeinsurance, telecom,IT, carbonblack

 HavingturnoverofUSD303million, companyisamajorproducerofpolyesteryarns,

fabrics, garmentsandtextiles
 HasthelargestcompositetextilemillinIndiaforproducingcottonfabric

 HavingaturnoverofUSD95million, itsproductsincludeviscosefilamentyarn, viscose

10/03/09
MFM -Batch 9/11
 International Players

10/03/09
MFM -Batch 9/11
  Indiahasarichrawmaterialbase,especiallycottonwhichhasseenimprovedproductivityinthecountryundertheCotton
There are several other industry specific advantages
Technoarising
logyMission out of the unique nature of the industry in India
 WidevarietyofcottonproducedIndia, makingIndiacapableofcateringtovarioussegmentsofworldtrade

 Indianindustryhasabilitytohandledifferentmaterials-cotton, wool,silkandjutewithequalskill

 PositivedevelopmentsintheTextilePolicy

 GovtincentiveschemesoncottonexportslikeDEPB.

 Fiscalanomaliesintermsofexcisedutystructureremoved

 Flexibilityinproduction

 Capabilitiesacrosstheentirevaluechainwithinthecountryreducesleadtimeforproductionandreducesintermediateshipping

time

 Indiancompanieshaveflexibilityandskilledmanpowertohandlesmallorderswithcomplexdesigns

 Productdevelopmentanddesigncapabilities
10/03/09
 MFM -Batch 9/11
 India has a cost advantage vis-à-vis
competing countries

Costcompetitiveness SouthKorea
China
Yarn:USDperkgof yarn
Brazil
Fabric:USDperyardof fabric India

Open-endedyarn&fabric Ringyarn&fabric Texturedyarn&fabric

2.35 2.68 1.68

2.51 2.76 1.40

Yarn 2.31 2.61 1.90

2.17 2.45 2.06

0.70 0.75 0.55

0.65 0.69 0.51

0.60 0.55
0.65
0.61 0.66 0.59

Wovenfabric 0.18
0.06 1.22
0.04 0.14
1.21
0.07 0.20
1.21
0.06 1.12 0.21

Knittedfabric

• India is cost competitive vis-à-vis competing countries in textile

production, except in case of textured yarn and fabric
10/03/09
MFM -Batch 9/11
 Many foreign players have
also entered India
 Top10buyersinIndia(Gap, Wal-Mart, Li &Fung, TheChildren’sPlace, JCPenny, H&M,Federated, FifthAvenue, Carrefourand

Buyingandliaisonoffices SynergiesIndia)account for35%oftotal textilessourcedfromIndia

 OthermajorcompaniesincludeEl Corte, Ecko, Kellwood, VFCorporation, Tesco, Next, Karstadt-Quelle

 Brandlicensing-HugoBoss, TommyHilfiger, Mango, Lovable, Nike, Lacoste

Brandlicensing/ franchising
 Masterfranchisee-Marks&Spencer, Crocodile

 VFArvindBrands-joint venturebetweenArvindBrandsandVFCorporationtomanufactureandsell latter’sbrandsinIndia

Manufacturing/ manufacturing
 Benetton
cumretailing
 Levi Strauss

 Reebok

 CarremanMichel Thierry
 Trends in fabric production

Items
units 1999- 2000- 2001- 2002- 2003-04 2004-05
2000 01 02 03

Cotton Million 18989 19718 19769 19300 18040 20488

sq.mtr.

Blended Million 5913 6351 6287 5876 6068 6000

sq.mtr.

100%Non-cotton Million 14306 14164 15978 16797 18275 18200

(including sq.mtr.

Khadi, Wool &

Silk)
 Global Dimensions
• Post-quota period, a major sourcing destination for new buyers.

• India's position in the global trade in textiles and clothing

India's percentage share in global textiles and clothing trade
was 4% in textiles, and 2.8% in clothing during the year 2007.

• India's rank in world trade has been 7th in textiles and 6th in
clothing.

• USA and the EU, account for about 2/3 of textiles exports.

10/03/09
MFM -Batch 9/11
 Current export scene
• Exports – cotton yarn and fabrics, man-made yarn and fabrics,
wool and silk fabrics exported to more than a hundred
countries.
• Cotton fabrics -constitute more than 2/3rd of our exports of all
fabrics … increase of 23.14% in 2007-08.. decline of 11.39%
April –December’ 2008
• Man-made fabrics: recorded an increase of 12.07% in 2006-
07 over the exports during the previous year.
• Silk fabric –recorded a a decline of 6.88% in 2007-08 over the
exports during the previous year.
 Impact of global recession
• Economic slow down in international markets
• Liquidity crunch
• Appreciation of Indian rupee vis-à-vis the US dollar in 2007-08 landed
the fabric exports in a difficult situation
• Increased cost of production due to increasing raw material costs ,power
and other input costs which affected the profitability of textiles in India
and their exports
• India’s share in global textiles and clothing exports in 2007declined to
4% and 2.8%, respectively from 4.3% and 3.3% in 2006
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
• Government introduced two packages of duty concessions,
tax and interest rebates in December, 2008 and January, 2009 to
provide stimulus to the economy in general to combat the recession.

10/03/09
MFM -Batch 9/11