SCAP

Different Types Of Cutting

Equipments

Cutting
Fabric cutting is a very important part of
garment industry.
Cutting different parts of garment apparel
very carefully according to shape of pattern is
called fabric cutting.

Methods
Fully manual: Hand operated scissor
Manually operated power knife: straight knife,
band knife, round knife, die cutting, notcher
drill
Computerized methods of fabric cutting:
Computer controlled knife cutting, cutting by
laser beam, cutting by water jet, cutting by
plasma torch.

Scissors
Advantages
Almost every type of cloth are cut by scissor.
Disadvantages
It takes huge time for fabric cutting. It is
impossible to cut the fabric lay of any height

Straight Knife
It is the most useful cutting machine in the
garment industry.
Machine parts and their functions
Blade: Cuts the fabric laterally into a spread.
Sharpening device: Produces degree of keenness
inthe cutting edge.
Blade drive: Cutting blade is reciprocated
vertically inthe blade housing by the blade drive.
Blade housing :It is anchored in the base plate.It
supports the motor, operating handle and
sharpeners

 Blade guard: It is a safety device attached indirectly to

the blade housing. It has two functionssafety and cutting quality. It prevents the cutter from
accidentally cutting his positioning hand on top of the
spread.
Base plate: The foundation that supports and helps
balance the cutting mechanism. It guides the knife in
relation to the table surface and elevates the spread off
the cutting table for contact with the blade.
Handle: It moves the cutting machine or the cutter
over the lines or area to be cut.
Power system: It provides power to the drives for the
motor drive to move blade drive which drives the
blade.

 Advantage of straight knife

The knife is comparatively cheap & can be
transferred from one place to another easily.Lay
of higher height can be cut very easily. Suitable
for large production rate as it is convenient to cut
the lay of 10 inches height. Fabric can be cut from
any angle.
Disadvantage of straight knife
Sometimes deflecting may occur due to the
weight of the motor. Chance of accident is high.
Blade deflection occurs so quality may
be hampered. Skill hand required.

Round Knife
Round knife is mostly used for cutting the big
parts of the garment pattern.
Advantages:
Round knife is mainly used to separate the big
parts and separate the blocks of fabric from
relatively small height fabric lay.

 Disadvantages:
Not suitable for cutting very curved lines in
higher number of lays as the blade does not
strike all the piles simultaneously at the same
point.
Round knife is used only for straight line and
lower number of piles.
Not suitable for higher production.
Possibility of accident is high.
Difficult to cut small components.

Band Knife
Band Knife cutting machine is look like a
wood cutter machine.
Band knife is used for precision cutting small
parts of garment. This band knife cutting
machine has lower noise, less temperature up,
high power, less vibration and auto sharpening
device.

Features
This machine worked as saw mill technique.
Not possible to cut fabric directly from lay.
Block pieces of fabric required in bundle from
to cut by this machine.
Blade moving vertically through a flat working
table.
Machine remains stationery and fabric is
moveable.

 Specially used to cut small parts more

accurately.
USES: Band knife cutting machine is a primary
device equipment in garment and knitting etc
industries.
It could accurately cut the pattern of fabrics.
This machine is with special blower decreases
resistance between fabrics and table, which
enables the fabrics be moved easily and be cut
precisely.

Computer controlled knife cutting

This methods provides the most accurate possible cutting ,
at high speed,.
A typical computer system has a table with a cutting
surface consisting of nylon bristles which support the fabric
lays but are flexible enough to permit penetration and
movement of the knife blade which is supported only on
the top. The bristles also allow the passage of air through
the table to create a vacuum, reducing the height of the lay
and holding it in place .
It is ideal for placing notches in a lay and has a depth
adjustment guide to stop you notching too deeply. It has
a depth capacity of 200mm and selectable temperatures of
300, 400 or 500oC.

Advantages
Very active & fast cutting by computer
controlled system.
Suitable for very large-scale production.
Speed of cutting can be controlled.
Cutting defects are less than other.
Less labor cost.
No need of marker paper.

Disadvantages
Very expensive machine.
Higher maintenance cost.

Laser Cutting Machine

Laser cutting processing depends on its precise
processing, faster, simple operation, high degree
of automation has been widely used in the
leather and textile garment industry.
Laser cutting machine is not only with low price,
low consume, more over laser processing doesn't
have mechanical stress to the work piece, so the
precision and cutting speed of the cut products'
result are very well.

Advantages
Very High Speed Cutting
Suitable for single ply cutting

Disadvantages
Not suitable for cutting multi layer of fabric
Not suitable for synthetic fabric
Possibility of burning.