The art of garment pattern

grading.
R.S.BALAKUMAR.
FACULTY.
SFDA/HINDUSTAN UNIVERSITY

 Grading in the apparel manufacturing industry

is well known as the art of proportionally
increasing or decreasing a given size pattern
part from one size to another, retaining
everything true to its original form.
The grading network for a block pattern is also
the basic network for the components which
have been developed from the block pattern.

 There are many techniques involved in the

grading of garment pattern but they all have one
common principle- the basic grade.
Grading system can be classified in to the
following two broad systems:
1. Track Shift System or Two dimensional grading.
2. Draft Grade System or Three dimensional
grading.

Two-dimensional system:

Two dimensional grading systems only grades

a pattern for girth and height and its
application is therefore limited to loose or
semi drape garments because it retains the
stock size suppression throughout the size
range.
This system is more apt to a very loose fitting
garment such as a shirt or blouse with a
limited range to say, 10-12-14, may be safely
graded using a two dimensional system.

Three dimensional system:

This system not only increases a

pattern for size but it also increases or
decreases suppression in the following
areas:
1.Bust to shoulder.
2.Hip to Waist.
3.Elbow to wrist.

 Three dimensional grading is the optimum

system and should be used whenever
possible,
particularly when grading close fitting or
skin-tight garments and garments that
progress in size from 10 to 22.
The most important garment area is the
bust to shoulder suppression quantity.
A good working knowledge of pattern
cutting is required to use a threedimensional grading system.

Types of Garment:
There are two main categories, they are:
Close or skin-tight fitting garments
Loose or semi drape garments.
The closer the garment fit, the more important it
is to select a sophisticated garment grading
system which adjusts the garment with the
garment suppression.
If the garment fit is loose the value of adjusting
the garment suppression decreases and a two
dimensional system becomes more advisable.

Number of sizes:
This may depend a little on whether
a garment is close or loose-fitting,
but it mainly refers to a situation
where the company or firm only
offers a limited number of sizes, the
complexity of the grading system,
etc.

Number of sizes:
This may depend a little on whether
a garment is close or loose-fitting,
but it mainly refers to a situation
where the company or firm only
offers a limited number of sizes, the
complexity of the grading system,
Grading Techniques:
The draft or multi size (Nested)
grade.
The track or single size grade.

The Draft Grade:

This term applies when the pattern is returned to its original

block form or when the increment is applied to the actual
pattern draft.
This results in the entire size range being super imposed one
on top of another and can also be described by the term
'Nested' or 'Tracked'.
The individual pieces of pattern for each size are then picked
or traced off onto card.
A draft grade can be either two or three dimensional.
The three dimensional draft grade is considered to be the
ultimate method for applying grade increments.

The Track Grade:

This term is used when grade increments
are applied to individual pieces of pattern
by moving the base pattern pieces along
with the predetermined tracks.
Making the pattern section by section
and thus altering its size.
This system is usually two dimensional
but can be adapted to a three
dimensional system with difficulty.

steps for manual grading:

1.
To prepare for grading.
2.
Grading the pattern,
3.
Check the pattern grading
measurements
4.
Completing the pattern.

The tools required for grading

1.
Parallel rules
2.
Awl
3.
Carpenters pencil
4.
Proportional divider
5.
French curve
6.
Arm hole curve
7.
Tailors square
8.
Notch maker
9.
Grade ruler
10. Measuring tape
11. Colour sketch pen or pencils

Size intervals:
A sizing system is a pre-determined
size interval i.e.
the major girth difference between
each size.
The variation in the size is in the
order of plus or minus 2cm then the
logical size interval would be 4cm.
Practically, intervals smaller than
4cm result into more used sizes of
the range.

Size charts:
There are two types of size charts in normal use.
1. Body measurements:
This type of chart provides the human body measurements
for each size and these measurements are used as a basis
for constructing a pattern with the requisite amounts of
ease.
2. Garment measurements: This chart gives the details of the finished measurements,
specification for each size and is used for pattern grading
purpose.
A size is a combination of measurements and each
combination is designated by a symbol which is a common
code between the apparel manufacturer and the consumer.

The 'X ' AXIS and 'Y'AXIS:

The x -axis for body
y-axis for body and skirt grades would
be a line on, or parallel to the center
back or center front.
This is always true, if straight y-axis is
a line on, or parallel to a major girth
line such as the bust, waist, or hip.

The different types of

manual grading, grading
machine grading, and
computerized grading are still used.
The practice of garment grading is mainly
concerned with efficiently producing
dimensionally accurate patterns.
In order to do this, some basic rules must be
always observed.
There is no hard and fast rule as how to actually
produce the sets of graded patterns and the
choice of working method is also dependent on
an individual's accuracy and convenience.

THANK
YOU