MENSWEARTYPES OF FORMAL

SUITINGS

THE SUIT
The Suit
Jacket

The
Dress
Shirt

The
Waistcoa
t

The Suit
Trouser

The
Necktie

The Cut

Double Breasted

Single Breasted

British Cut
( Double
Vent)

Italian Cut (No vent)

American
Cut (Single
Vent)

Fabric

Flannel

Tweed

Gabardine

Fresco

Colors

Business Colors:
Black, light grey, dark
grey, navy

Non-Business Colors:
Brown, Olive, Tan, or Cream

Red (Unconventional & garish)

3-Button Navy
Blue Suit
(universally
Occurring suit)

Other
conservative
Colors:
Green, White,
Light Blue

Harris tweed

Pin-Stripes
Herringbone

Houndstooth

Rope stripes

Double Breasted Suit Jacket

Two by two &
Four by four
Button
arrangement

Six-on-one

Six-on-two

Eight by Eight

DOUBLE BREASTED KENT CUT

Popularized by George,
Duke of kent
Double breasted
Long Lapel line, extends
into waist
Six-in-one arrangement

D&G Fall 2010

Single Breasted Suit jacket

Two button
Suits:
for 6 ft. tall
man, has 60s
feel, bottom
button
fastened

Four button
Suits: for
shorte/stocki
er man,
middle
button
fastened,
deeper
gorge

Three button Suits: for figure type, middle button

Suit Jacket Lapels

Notched Lapels on
Single Breasted Suits

Double Breasted Jacket

Peaked Lapels

Wide Lapels (1930s,1970s)Shawl Lapels (Dinner Suits)

Very
Narrow
Lapels
(1950s60s)

Narrower
Lapels &
Higher
Gorge
Shorter
man
(2000s)

Mid Size Lapels (1980s);

low gorge taller man

1960s

Skinny Ties

Tailored jackets, narrow lapels

as
Seen in the then famous TV
soap Mad Men

Winkle Pickers

1970s
John Travoltas
White suit in
Saturday Night
Fever

Man Mates BrandLoud, outrageous

Colors, wide lapels

Pockets
Patch pockets

Flap Pockets

Jetted Pockets

Suit Jacket - Sleeve

The Sleeve length should be
such that of the shirts
sleeve is seen

Typical 3-4
Button sleeve cuf

5 button sleeve cuf

(unusual)

Surgeon
Cufs
(functional
Cufs)

Roped
Sleeve
Jacket

Tuxedos

ack or white, adorned with a bow, for semi formal evenings,

tin lapels, worn with pleated front shirt, one button suit, poin
shawl lapels, cummer bands also worn, & leather shoes.

Trousers

Same fabric trousers as that of suit

Wearing
suit odd
trousers

Flared

Straight legged &

wide legged (23
cuf)-1920s

Bell bottomsTapered-slim legge

Wide legged-70s
50s-60s
1980s

1930s-Oxford Bags

High waist trousers

Turn-ups on Bottom
of trouser (1920s30s)

Short European trousers

Low rise trousers
(Little or No break)

Belt braces/
Suspenders

Waistcoats

Dress Shirts

Collars

Saint Tropez

Hidden-button Cut-away

2-Button Italian Button down

Buttons Cut away

Soft roll collars

Wing Up

Pin Collars

Classic Narrow

Band collar Buttons Down

Turn Down Spread Cut away

Tab collars

Cufs
Portofino or
Cocktail cufs

Barrel cufs
(corner cut at 45o)

Turnbull/ Asser/ Double

Cufs

Shoes

Blucher Oxford

Rubber shoes

Clogs

Spectator shoes

Chukka

Loafers

Brogues

Heavy Duty

Balmoral Shoes