TEXTILE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Fiber Manufacturing

Natural fibers

Man-made fibers

Fiber Preparation

Loose fibers/stock

CHAIN

TEXTILE

Polymers

Yarn Manufacturing

Yarn

Fabric Manufacturing

Fabric (Grey)

Fabric Finishing

Fabric (Finished)

FIBERS
Basic raw material of Textile
Thin, fine, hair like substance
Short lengths or long continuous strand
High length to diameter (L/D) ratio

YARNS

Linear strand of twisted fibers in continuous long strand

Conversion of fibers into yarn is called spinning

FABRICS

A flexible planar substance constructed from fibers and yarns by

weaving, knitting and nonwoven process.

WEAVING
Two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right
angles to form a fabric or cloth.
The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral
threads are the weft or filling.

KNITTING

Intermeshing of series of loop of one or more yarns

The longitudinal threads are called the wales and the lateral threads
are the courses.

NONWOVEN

Sheet or web structures bonded together by entangling fiber or filaments

(and by perforating films) mechanically, thermally, or chemically. They
are flat, porous sheets that are made directly from separate fibers or
from molten plastic or plastic film

DYEING AND PRINTING

Application of color - Dyeing

Application of color selectively to produce a particular design Printing

FINISHING

Processes that convert the fabric (grey) into a usable form and
more specifically to any process performed to improve the look,
performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile.

Fire Fighter
Fabric

Lotus effect

CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBERS

CLICK FOR FURTHER CLASSIFICATION

CLICK FOR FURTHER CLASSIFICATION

CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBERS (Contd.)

CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBERS (Contd.)

FABRIC PERFORMANCE PROPERTIES

Luster
Drape
Hand
Pilling
Resiliency
Strength
Elasticity
Abrasion Resistance
Chemical Effects
Cover
Absorbency
Wicking
Permeability

Flammability
Chemical Resistance

ESSENTIAL PROPERTIES OF
TEXTILE FABRICS

STRENGTH

Ability to resist stress and strain

ELASTICITY
The ability to deform under stress (tension): Elasticity
The ability to return/restore to original dimension: Elastic recovery

RESILIENCY

The ability of a fabric to spring back to shape after

being creased, twisted or distorted

ABRASION RESISTANCE

An ability to resist wear from rubbing

CHEMICALS EFFECTS

The way fibers react with different chemicals like acids,

alkalis, organic solvents, bleaching agents, etc.

PILLING

Formation of groups of short or broken fibers on the surface of a

fabric which are tangled together in the shape of tiny balls, called
pills

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
An ability of a fabric to retain its shape & size during washing or
dry cleaning

HANDLE
An ability of a fabric to retain its shape & size during washing or
dry cleaning

THERMO-PLASTICITY

Thermoplastic fibers melts or soften when heat is applied

COVER

An ability to occupy yarns in area of fabric structure

ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITION

An ability of fabric how it behaves to certain environmental

exposure like sunlight, storage and wet condition

HYDROPHOBIC/HYDROPHILIC

Inability

to

take

moisture

from

atmosphere-

from

atmosphere-

hydrophobic

Ability

to

hydrophilic

take

moisture

MOISTURE ABSORBENCY

Amount

and

rate

of

taking

moisture

from

atmosphere

Moisture Regain = Original Weight Oven Dry Weight x 100

Oven Dry Weight

MOISTURE ABSORBENCY (Contd.)

MOISTURE ABSORBENCY: Wicking

The absorption of moisture through the fabric by the

capillary action

LUSTRE

Amount of light reflecting from the surface of the fabric

FABRIC DRAPE

The ability of a fibre (fabric) to bend easily under its own weight

TEXTILE FIBERS

COTTON

COTTON (Contd.)

Grows in seed pot of the Cotton plant

Composed 90% of Cellulose.

Length of cotton fibers varies from 2

Each fiber is a single elongated cell that is twisted and ribbon

like with wide inner hollow (lumen)- Convolutions.

Grades of Cotton fibers are based on:

Colour: From white to yellowish or grey
Purity: Amount of foreign matter present
Staple length: Average length of fiber

DURABILITY

COTTON: Properties and Performance

Strength increases by 20%, when wet
Good strength and abrasion resistance
Good resistance to alkalis and organic solvents
Poor resistance to Acids
Easily attacked by fungus and mildew

Cotton fabrics have poor luster due to its natural color

Mercerized and ammonia treated fabrics have soft and
pleasant luster
Weave: sateen- lustrous due to weave structure
Inelastic, Poor resiliency: Cotton fabrics wrinkle easily
Poor dimensional stability: Shrink easily

AESTHETIC

Poor resistance to sunlight

COMFORT

COTTON: Properties and Performance

Hydrophilic, moisture regain is 8.5%

Good wicking

Gives cooling effect good for hot weather

Absorbs moisture quickly and dries quickly

Poor elasticity and moderate recovery

FLAX

FLAX (Contd.)

Flax comes from the stem of the flax plant, and mainly
composed of cellulose.

The natural color of flax varies from light ivory to tan color.

Medium weight fiber and fiber length varies between 2 36.

Flax fibers are spun and twisted to form a yarn and woven the
finished fabric is called Linen

Linen fabrics are lint free because no short fibers.

FLAX: Properties and Performance

Excellent Strength, twice as long as Cotton, 20% stronger when
wet condition
Good hand and high natural luster
12% moisture regain
Good fabric for hot weather
Absorb moisture quickly and dries quickly
No pilling and static problems, Adequate dimensional stability

Attacked by mildew and silver fish, fair abrasion resistance and

fair elasticity Not as durable as Cotton and poor resiliency

SILK

SILK

Natural animal fiber composed of protein and obtained from

Silk cocoons. One cocoon yields 1000 2500 yards of
filament.

Looks like grey or yellow in natural color because of a gum

substance sericin

Raw Silk consist of fibroin (fiber) and sericin to hold

filaments together

Sericin is insoluble in water, it can be dissolved by strong

acid and alkali. The removal of sericin is called de-gumming

Raw silk appears as a double fiber with an irregular surface

structure. After de-gumming, silk appears as a single fiber,
smooth, regular and transparent

DURABILITY

SILK: Properties and Performance

Strongest animal fiber, looses 15% - 20% when wet

Fair Abrasion resistance

Elasticity:

Very elastic, 20% elongation at breaking point

Elastic recovery:

Poor recovery if stretched beyond 2% elongation

Dimensional Stability:

Tends to shrink when laundered or dry cleaned

Chemical effects:

Good resistance to dilute acids

Concentrated, strong acids destroy silk

DURABILITY (Contd.)

SILK: Properties and Performance

Nitric acid causes silk to become yellow

Poor resistance to alkali, better than wool

Dissolved by 5% NaOH

Damaged by substance containing chloride salts

Good resistance to dry cleaning solvents

Poor resistance to chlorine bleaches

Effect of Environmental Condition

Poor resistance to sun light,

prolonged exposure to sunlight results in change of

color and destroy silk faster than Cotton and Wool

High resistance to mildew, clean silk fabrics are not

attacked by moths and other insects.

SILK: Properties and Performance

Lustrous appearance, high brightness after sericin is

AESTHETIC

removed.
Light weight fiber excellent drape gives graceful
appearance to garment
Silk ranks next to wool in resiliency, wrinkles hangout
fairly readily but not as quickly as wool
Luxurious hand, feels warm, crisp, smooth and dry
Good pilling resistance

Rate of absorption - Slow

Rate of drying - Quick

COMFORT

Hydrophilic fiber: moisture regain- 11%

SILK: Varieties

WOOL

WOOL
Wool is a natural animal fiber and composed of protein.
Most wool fibers are between 2 20cm staple in length and
elliptical in cross section.
The surface of the fiber is covered with scales.
Most wool is white; however it may be found in gray, brown and
black color.
The quality of wool depends upon
Fiber fineness
Staple length
The amount of impurities contained in the fleece
The scale structure
Natural color
The part of fleece from which it is derived

WOOL: Properties and Performance

Relatively weak fiber

Strong yarns can be produced due to long staple fibers

DURABILITY

and natural crimp with the high friction provided by the

scales on its surface.

Good abrasion resistance

Wool stretches well and has excellent elastic recovery

Felting: Interlocking of fibers due to scales when

subjected to wet mechanical action. The result is
progressive shrinkage

Chemical effects:

Poor resistance to chlorine bleaches

Damaged by oxidizing bleaches

DURABILITY

WOOL: Properties and Performance

Highly resistant to organic solvents

Good resistance to acid, poor resistance to alkali

Good resistance to acid, poor resistance to alkali

Good resistance to oil-borne stains

Poor resistance to water-borne stains

Effect of Environmental:

Fair to Good resistance to sunlight

Poor resistance to mildew if exposed to damp

conditions for prolonged periods

Easily damaged by carpet bleaches and moths

AESTHETIC

WOOL: Properties and Performance

Luster: Generally dull in appearance

Drape: Worsted fabrics drape well than woolen fabrics

Resiliency: Excellent wrinkle resistance

Hand: Wool fabrics feels warm, springy rough and dry

Pilling: Poor pilling resistance

Hydrophilic fiber, moisture regain is13%

1. Poor Wicking: Rate of absorption & drying is poor
2. Good Cover: The high level crimp and loose structure
of wool yarn results air to be trapped giving insulating
behavior.

COMFORT

Wool is a warm fabric because of:

SILK: Varieties

VISCOSE RAYON

Viscose Rayon is regenerated cellulose

Man-made fiber and it consists of almost entirely

cellulose

Produced in both filament and staple fiber form

Naturally white in color, can be produced in dull, semi

dull and bright colors

DURABILITY

RAYON: Properties and Performance

Strength: Poor, loses 30 40% of strength when wet.

Poor abrasion resistance

Elasticity / Recovery: 20% extension & 80% recovery at

2% extension

Dimensional Stability: Poor; 20 30% shrinkage

Chemical Effects:

Easily damaged by strong acids.

Hot dilute mineral acids or cold concentrated acids

damage the fabric.

RAYON: Properties and Performance

Good resistance to alkali. Concentrated alkali will cause

DURABILITY

swelling and reduce strength

Good resistance to organic solvents
Effect of Environment:
Lengthy exposure to sunlight weakens the fabric
Mildew depends on humidity and temperature.
Resist mildew if clean and dry.
Mildew discolors and weakens the fabric;
May be attacked by silver fish and insects but resistant to
moths.

AESTHETIC

RAYON: Properties and Performance

Luster: Bright and lustrous appearance.

Drape: light weight and drapes extremely well

Resiliency: Poor, Wrinkles easily when worn

Hand: Pleasant, soft and cool to touch

Pilling: No pilling

Hydrophilic fiber, moisture regain 13%

Wicking: Good.

Rate of absorption and drying is fast.

COMFORT

HIGH WET MODULUS RAYON

To produce high wet strength rayon, the fiber producer modifies

the regular viscose rayon manufacturing procedure

Higher wet / dry strength than regular Rayon; 50% strong when
dry; 100% strong when wet

Absorbs less water than regular rayon and swell less

Can be given shrinkage treatment to make fabric dimensionally

stable

Crease resistant finishes can be applied without loss of strength

POLYESTER

Synthetic- poly ethylene terep thalate polymer

Produced as filament and staple length;

Under microscope: Smooth, even, rod likes shape;

Naturally white in color

DURABILITY

POLYESTER: Properties and Performance

Strength: very good in both dry and wet condition

Abrasion resistance: Exceptionally Good

Elasticity: Fair to good. Less than Nylon, Greater than

Cotton and Rayon

Elastic recovery: 97% recovery at 2% elongation

Dimensional Stability: Excellent resistance to shrinkage

and shape retention.

Effect of Chemicals

Good resistance to most acid / alkali

Good resistance to dry cleaning solvents;

Good resistance to oxidizing and reducing bleaches

DURABILITY (Contd.)

POLYESTER: Properties and Performance

Effect of Environmental Conditions
Good resistance to sunlight

AESTHETICS

Complete resistance to bacteria, fungus, mildew / moth

Luster: High natural luster, may be de-lustered

Drape: Good Excellent

Resiliency: Outstanding, excellent recovery from

wrinkling / creasing

Hand: Feels smooth and slick

Pilling: Subject to pilling and static build up

NYLON

Synthetic Polyamide molecular structure

Produced as filaments and staple

Naturally white in color

Most common and heavily produced polyamides are Nylon 6,

Nylon 6 6, which are nearly identical.

NYLON: Properties and Performance

High natural luster, may be de-lustered.

Good Drape and good crease resistance

Feels smooth and slick

Susceptible to pilling

Subjected to static build up, producing electric charges.

Exceptionally strong in both wet / dry condition

Excellent abrasion resistance

Weakened by strong acids; not affected by alkalis; Not

affected by oxidizing / reducing bleach.

May be harmed by Chlorine / strong oxidizing bleaches.

NYLON: Properties and Performance

Resistant to moths, fungi and insects

Poor resistance to sunlight, prolonged exposure weakens

and causes deterioration of color / strength.

Poor absorbency: Hydrophobic in nature.

Rate of absorption of moisture is slow and rate of drying is

quick.

Good elasticity and recovery, good dimensional stability

ACRYLIC

Manufactured fiber composed of at least 85% by weight of

Acrylonitrile units

Produced in both staple and filament fibers

Round cross section or bell shaped cross section;

Color- White or Off-white

ACRYLIC: Properties and Performance

Produces bulk to lightweight fabric

Appearance and hand similar to wool

High natural luster; may be de-lustered

Good drape and crease resistance;

Feels warm, elastic, smooth and slick;

Susceptible to pilling

Prone to static build up;

Slow absorption and quick drying;

Strong in both wet / dry condition

Good abrasion resistance:

ACRYLIC: Properties and Performance

Good resistance to mineral acids ,alkalis and organic

solvents

Excellent resistance to sunlight and weathering

Good resistance to fungus and micro organisms and

insects.

Produces thick, fluffy, bulk fabric to lightweight which

makes it warmer for winter dress materials

Good resistance to flame; burns slowly burns

Washes well and dries quickly

MODA-ACRYLIC
Modacrylic is a manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming
substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of less
than 85% but at least 35% by weight of Acrylonitrile units

MODA-ACRYLIC: Properties and Performance

Modacrylic fiber fabrics have a warm, pleasant hand, good

drape, and resiliency, wrinkle resistance and strength

Good strength and elasticity, fair to good resiliency

Fair abrasion resistance

Good fire resistance

Excellent resistance to sunlight and weather

Excellent affinities for dyes

Hydrophobic in nature

Fair resistance to alkalis

Static and pilling are problems

SPANDEX (LYCRA)

Segmented Polyurethane Synthetic molecular structure

Spandex is a smooth, flexible rod with little internal structure;

Cross section varies dog-bone / peanut shapes;

Produced as mono filament / multi filaments

Fibers may be stretched at least 200% before they break and

rapidly recover when tensile forces are released;

SPANDEX: Properties and Performance

Power stretch fabrics in which the high restrictive forces of

the elastomeric cloth can shape and control body contours
in particularly for Body fit garments.

Excellent elastic properties up to 500%

Elongation at break 100% recovery

Very good resiliency and highly flexibility

Very good abrasion resistance. Good dimensional stability

in wet; however some types shrink exposure to high
temperature

Good resistance to house hold bleaches and most acids

SPANDEX: Properties and Performance

Good resistance to house hold bleaches and most acids;

damaged by hot alkalis cause rapid deterioration;

resistant to dry cleaning solvents;

Superior dye ability with brilliant colors.

Poor strength; poor absorbency;

White spandex becomes yellowish with prolonged

exposure to air; Ironing should be done quickly with low
temperature setting

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