Trims

EMBROIDERY MATERIALS
OGFAA

SUBMITTED TO MS. GIRIJA JHA PREPARED BY ANMOL JAIN

SANGAM
MFT-2017-2019
Embroidery
Embroidery is an art form that uses close or overlapping stitches & novelties to create
three dimensional surface designs to embellish textile & apparel products.
Embroidery has evolved over centuries by dozens of cultures to a modern day
manufacture-able art form to add value to products.
Joshua Heilmann from Mulhouse worked on the design of a hand embroidery machine
in 1800s. Heilmanns invention was quickly followed by the shuttle embroidery and
the chain stitch embroidery methods.
Evolution of Embroidery
Process of Embroidery
Parts of Embroidery machine
Threads for Embroidery
Rayon Threads
Polyester Threads
Nylon Threads
Cotton Threads
Cotton Wrapped Polyester
Metallic Threads
Laminate/Flat Threads
Silk Threads
Types of Stitches
Outline - Used for outlining the elements of the design
Border - Used to secure edges and to add textural dimension to the design
Detached - Used to create decorative details or in mass to fill in open areas of the
design
Filling - Used to create shading or to solidly fill in a design area.
Embroidery Stitches /
Novelties
Types based on material used for manufacturing
Resin
Acrylic
Glass
Pearl
Metal
Stone
Sequins / Beads

Sequin- Plastic, Metal, Glass, Sequin Strand - Plastic Seed Beads- Plastic & Glass Delica Beads Glass Natural Stone Beads-
Leather Variation in Size Variations in size and faces (most Natural stone
Variation in Size & Shapes common hex faced) Variation in shapes

Faceted Round Beads Stone Briolette Beads Stone Bugle Beads Ceramic Beads Ceramic
Variations in Facets & finishes Tear drop shaped , Vertically Glass ,Plastic & Metal Tubes Variations in sizes
(Crystal cut common finish) drilled & Triangular facets Variation in Shapes & Sizes Tubular & Round
Metal / Rock Material

French Wire Light weight Bullion Wire Flat copper Brass Sequin Brass Metal Chain Brass Metal Charms Brass, Other
fine coiled copper wire wire coiled in square or Variation in sizes, holes and Variations in chain styles metals
Variation in Diameter triangular manner shapes Variations Shapes & Sizes
Variation in Diameter

Hot Fix Metal Studs- Brass & Metal Pipes Brass , Large Sew on Studs Commercial Filigree Stampings Iron ,
Commercial cement plaster holes cement plaster , Large holes Sheet metal
Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes Variation in shapes & sizes Variations in design
Acrylic / Resin Material

Acrylic Stones Colored Lucite Stones Twin colored Foil Resin Stones Multi Faceted Resin Stones Translucent Stones Epoxy
acrylic powder liquid acrylic Epoxy resin Acrylic Crystal , multi faceted resin,
metal holder metal holder Variations in shapes & sizes epoxy resin Angular color density effect
Variation in shapes & sizes multi holes Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes

Resin Rhinestones Resin Resin Stones Resin Cabochon Stones Acrylic Givre Stones Resin
Powder Shiny surface multi color Color in middle of shiny
brass metal holder Dye able Non faceted surface
Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes
Crystal/Pearls Material

Bicone Crystals Crystal Swarovski Crystal Mirrors Glass with reflective Crystal Glass Stones High Cup Chains Glass crystal /
faceted Hot fix polish quality glass, faceted Acrylic pearls
Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes multi hole Metal holder
Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes

Crystal Chatons Crystal glass Hot Fix Crystals Glass Crystal Mother Of Pearl Buttons Sea Glass Pearls Colored glass
Foil back Hot fix shells Variations in sizes
Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes curved surface
Variations as per shells
Cost Factor
Cost of embroidery is related to size of design, number of stitches, materials used,
complexity, details, color changes & handling of garment or components.
Smaller designs or repeats costs less.
Cost is determined by adding up the material cost and production cost.
Quality Factors
The quality evaluation of embroidered parts can be done based on :
Thread used
Materials used
Stitch Count
Design Accuracy
Stitch formation
Placement of design
Defects in Embroidery
Poor Registration
Where the stitches and design elements do not line up correctly. The embroidery sewing
process sews different colors at different times. If the fabric shifts while one color is being
sewn, then poor registration will occur when the next color is sewn.
Defects in Embroidery
Fabric Grin Through
Where the fabric is seen through the embroidery design either in the middle of the pattern
or on the edge.
Defects in Embroidery
Missed Trim
Where threads are left on the embroidery pattern between images or lettering. Thread trims
are digitized when changing colors and when moving from one location to another using
jump stitches.
Defects in Embroidery
Bunching at Corners
Where the corners of lettering or shapes are not sharp and crisp but are bunched up or
distorted. Usually caused by too much thread in the corners due to poor digitizing
Beads & Jewel Trims in Children Wear
Beads & jewel trims that are poorly attached to garments or that easily break can become a
small part that is easily mouthed and swallowed by young children.

Sharp or pointy edges that can scratch or pierce a childs skin can arise through poor quality or
badly attached beading or jewel trims.

Coatings and materials used for beads or jewels may contain chemicals that are hazardous for
children who are known to frequently mouth such items.

Beading and jewel trims made from glass, ceramic, natural materials such as wood & shell are not
recommended because they can crack and break easily when bitten by young children.

Consideration should be given to the positioning of beads and jewels that pass across the face
when a garment is removed
Material Testing
Test Description
Visual The appearance of the sample
Durability
Visual after washing
Color fastness
Chemical Toxic & Harmful chemicals
Light Exposure Color fastness
Metal Aging Reaction to external environment
Restricted Substances Check for lead, phthalates, Azo etc.
Areas Of Material Manufacturing
China
South Korea
India
Indonesia
Commercial Scenario
Thank You